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The Prairie Traveler - Itineraries B
LIST OF ITINERARIES - B
ITINERARY XVII
XVII.--From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak
and "Cherry Creek," N. T., via the Arkansas River.
Miles.
Westport to
4 3/4. Indian Creek.--The road runs over a beautiful country.
Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance
of grass and water.
8 3/4. Cedar Creek.--The road passes over a fine country, and
there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.
8 1/2. Bull Creek.--The road is smooth and level, with less
wood than before. Camping good.
9 1/2. Willow Springs.--At nine miles the road passes "Black
Jack Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The
road has but little wood upon it at first, but it
increases toward the end of the march. The road is
level for some distance, but becomes more rolling,
and the country is covered with the finest grass.
Good camp at one mile from the main road.
20 1/4. 110-Mile Creek.--The road traverses the same character
of country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is
very smooth, and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock
Creeks," which have no running water in a dry season.
Good camp.
22 1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.--At eight miles the road crosses
Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four
miles farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile
farther the Second-Dragoon Creek, both fine streams,
well wooded, and good camping-places. Good camp.
20. "Big Rock Creek."--At one mile the road crosses a small
wooded branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm
Creek," where a good camping-place may be found. At 7
miles it crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it
crosses Bluff Creek, where there is a good camping-
place. Good camp.
20. "Council Grove," on "Elm Creek.--Road passes "Big John
Spring" at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine
camp is found three fourths of a mile beyond the
"Grove," on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water,
and grass.
16. Diamond Spring.--At eight miles the road crosses Elm
Creek, and passes over a section similar to that cast
of Council Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but
muddy after heavy rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.
16. Lost Spring.--One mile from camp the road passes a
wooded creek. From thence there is no more wood or
permanent water until arriving at camp. Take sight
from Lost Spring. The country becomes more level,
with grass every where. The road is muddy in wet
weather.
15 3/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road continues over a prairie
country, sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water,
and grass at camp.
22. Turkey Creek.--The road is good, and at 18 miles passes
Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at
camp; grass good.
23. Little Arkansas River.--The road runs over a level
prairie, and at 3 1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey
Creek," with the Arkansas River Valley in sight all
day. After rains there are frequent pools of water
along the road. Good camp.
20. "Big Cow" Creek.--The road passes for ten miles over a
level prairie to Charez Creek, which is a bushy
gully; thence six miles to Little Cow Creek, which is
a brushy stream, with here and there a tree. Good
camp here to the left of the road, near a clump of
trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence to be seen. Road
very level. Buffalo-grass here.
20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.--The road at 12 miles strikes
the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon
passed, however, and the level river bottom is
reached. The river has a rapid current flowing over a
quicksand bed. The road is generally good from the
last camp. Wood, water, and grass at camp.
7. Walnut Creek.--The road is good. Cool springs at this
camp; good grass and wood.
21. Head of Coon Creek.--At five miles the road forks, one
following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry
route" to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the
river. The country rises for ten miles on the dry
route, then descends to the river, and is covered
with the short buffalo-grass. No wood at camp.
18. Arkansas River.--The road passes over an undulating and
uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation.
The water in dry weather is in pools.
19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.--The road runs over a
similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood
near; pleanty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good
grass.
18 3/4. Arkansas River.--At 4 1/2 miles the road ascends a
bluff covered with thick buffalo-grass. At 17 miles
pass a ford. Grass good at camp.
19 1/4. Arkansas River.--The road is sandy for 14 miles, but
not deep except in places; thence to camp it is good.
Good camp.
22. Arkansas River.--Country prairie, covered with short
buffalo-grass. Good camp.
22. Arkansas River.--The road is fine, crossing several dry
beds of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering
trees. Good camp on a dry creek near the river.
24. Arkansas River.--The road runs over a barren plain at
the foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry
creeks near the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees.
Plenty of wood at camp.
21. Arkansas River.--The road follows the base of the hills
at from one to three miles from the river. Good camp.
20. Arkansas River.--At seven miles the road strikes the
"Big Timbers," where there is a large body of
cottonwood; thence for three miles the road is heavy
sand. Good camps along here.
13. Arkansas River.--At one mile the road passes some old
houses formerly used as a trading-post. Here
terminates the "Big Timbers." Coarse grass at the
camp.
15. Arkansas River.--At three miles the road passes the
mouth of Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort.
Good grass here.
24. Arkansas River.--Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is
excellent in the vicinity of the fort, but after this
it is not so good. The road runs over a high and
considerably broken country. Good camp.
11. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa
Creek; good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish
Peaks are in sight from the camp. The "Cherokee
Trail" comes in from Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and
leads to the gold diggings at Cherry Creek.
9. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano
Creek. Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles
Audebee's house.
12. Arkansas River.--At this point the Cherokee trail bears
to the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or
river road, runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of
the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek. The right-hand road
leads to the gold diggings.
15 3/4. Fontaine qui Bouille.--The road strikes in a northwest
course over the rolling country, and comes upon the
creek at a most beautiful camp, where there is a
great abundance of good wood, water, and grass. The
wood, water, and grass are good at all points on the
Fontaine qui Bouille, and travelers can camp any
where upon this stream.
17 1/2. Fontaine qui Bouille.--Here the road forks, one running
up the river, and the other striking directly across
to the divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer
the left-hand road, as it has more water and better
grass upon it.
6 1/2. Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."--The road to
Cherry Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille"
and bears to the right. There is a large Indian trail
which crosses the main creek, and takes a northwest
course toward "Pike's Peak." By going up this trail
about two miles a mineral spring will be found, which
gives the stream its name of "The Fountain that
Boils." This spring, or rather, these springs, as
there are two, both of which boil up out of solid
rock are among the greatest natural curiosities that
I have ever seen. The water is strongly impregnated
with salts, but is delightful to the taste, and
somewhat similar to the Congress-water. It will well
compensate any one for the trouble of visiting it.
17 1/2. Black Squirrel Creek.--This creek is near the crest of
the high divide between the Arkansas and Platte
Rivers. It is a small running branch, but always
affords good water. There is pine timber here, and
the grass is good on the prairies to the east. This
is a locality which is very subject to severe storms,
and it was here that I encountered the most severe
snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day
of May, 1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past
this spot as rapidly as possible during the winter
and spring months, as a storm might prove very
serious here.
14. Near the head of Cherry Creek.--The road crosses one
small branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek;
it then takes up to an elevated plateau, which in a
rainy season is very muddy. The camp is at the first
timber that is found, near the road, to the left.
There is plenty of wood, water, and grass here. There
is also a good camping-place at the small branch that
is mentioned.
10. On Cherry Creek.--There is good grass, wood, and water
throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains
are from five to ten miles distant, on the left or
west of the road, and when I passed there was a great
abundance of elk, deer, antelope, bear, and turkeys
throughout this section.
7. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.
11. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.
17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.--Good camp,
and a town built up since I passed, called "Denver
City."
Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685 1/4
miles.
ITINERARY XVIII
XVIII.--From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon.
Miles.
St. Paul's to
17 1/4. Small brook.--The wood, water, and grass are abundant
as far as the "Bois des Sioux" River.
20 1/4. Cow Creek.--This stream is crossed on a bridge.
23 1/4. Small Lake.--North of the road. The road passes over a
rolling prairie and crosses Elk River on a bridge.
17. Near Sauk Rapids.--The road crosses Elk River twice on
bridges; Mississippi River near.
18. Russel's.--Ferry across the Mississippi River, then
follow the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring
brook.
6. Cold Spring Brook.--Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4
1/2 feet deep.
19 1/2. Lake Henry.--Road good.
18 3/4. Lightning Lake.--Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat;
water 4 1/2 feet deep.
17 1/2. Lake.--One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean
Lake.
9 1/2. Pike Lake.--Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway
River. Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses
a small branch.
19 1/4. Small Lake.--Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road
passes numerous lakes and the best grass.
9 3/4. Small Lake.--Road passes rolling prairies, and
crosses Rabbit River.
27. "Bois des Sioux" River.--Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie;
rolling ground.
11. Wild Rice River.--Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70
feet wide and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and
banks. Wood, water, and grass at all camps between
this and Maple River.
4 1/2. Small Creek.--Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.
26 1/2. Sheyene River.--Smooth prairie road.
16 1/2. Maple River.--Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and
several small branches.
20. Small Creek.--Smooth road; no wood.
20. Pond.--Wet and marshy; numberous ponds in sight; no
wood.
15. Pond.--No wood; approaching Sheyene River.
13 1/2. Sheyene River.--Prairie more rolling; camp in the
river bottom. Wood, water, and grass abundant.
7. Slough.--Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3 1/2 feet
deep. No wood.
10. Lake.--Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood,
water, and grass.
10 1/2. Pond.--Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of grass and
water.
18 1/4. Marsh.--Smooth prairie, generally dry.
20. "Riviere a Jaques."--Smooth prairie, with marshes.
Road crosses the river several times. Wood, water,
and grass.
21 1/2. Pond.--Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and
no wood.
12. Small Branch.--Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with
a thin short grass, and no wood.
19 3/4. Lake.--One a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork
of Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling
prairie, passing "Balto de Morale," also a narrow
lake 4 1/2 miles long.
16 1/2. Pond.--Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a
small branch at 7 3/4 miles. No wood.
17 3/4. Pond.--Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep,
muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and
ponds. No wood.
16. Small Branch.--Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts
the valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near
their heads.
15 1/4. Pond.--Undulating prairie with occasional marshes;
the road then turns up the high ridge called "Grand
Coteau." No wood.
20 1/4. Lake.--Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood.
20. Lake.--Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood.
15 1/2. Pond.--Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs
between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of "bois de
vache" for fuel.
19 1/4. Branch of White Earth River.--Country rolling and
hilly. Road passes wood at eight miles from camp.
23 1/4. Pond.--For two miles the road passes over a low, flat
country, after which the country is hilly. No wood.
23 1/2. Pond.--Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At
18 miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide.
Wood in ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.
20. Pond.--Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in
a ravine. To the left there is more water, but the
country is rough. No wood.
16 1/4. Fort Union.--Road descends a hill to the fort; before
this it passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass
near in the hills.
6 1/2. Pond.--No wood; good grass.
6. Little Muddy River.--Good camp.
15 1/2. Creek.--Two good camps between this and the last.
Wood, water, and grass.
10. Big Muddy River.--Drift-wood for fuel.
11. Marsh near Missouri.--Good camp.
18. Poplar River.--Good camp. One or two good camps
between this and the last camp.
23 1/2. Creek near Missouri.--Good camp.
15. Slough near Missouri.--Good camp.
17 1/2. Milk River.--One good camp between this and the last
camp.
13 1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.
17 1/2. Milk River.--Good camp.
19 1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.
17 3/4. Milk River.--At the crossing. The road follows a trail
on the bluffs, and descends again to the river.
7 1/2. Lake.--No wood; grass and water plenty.
12 1/2. Milk River.--Second crossing. Good camp.
12. Milk River.--Good camp.
15 1/2. Milk River.--Good camps between this and the last
camp.
10 3/4. Milk River.--Good camp.
20. Milk River.--Good camp.
16. Milk River.--Good camp.
18. Milk River.--At the third crossing. Good camp.
7 1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.
17 1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Several good camps between this
and the last camp.
6. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.
19 1/4. Prairie Spring.--No wood; water and grass plenty.
13 3/4. Teton River.--Road crosses "Marias River."
8 3/4. Teton River, at Fort Benton.--A trading-post.
2 1/2. Small Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
18 3/4. Missouri River.--Good camp.
20 1/2. Missouri River.--Above the falls. Road much broken
into ravines. Wood, water, and grass.
16 3/4. Missouri River.--Road crosses first tributary above
Fort Benton at ten miles.
17. Missouri River.--The road becomes very bad after
fourteen miles, but is better on the north side of
the Missouri.
6. Missouri River.--The road is exceedingly rough and
broken; crosses the river.--Good wood, water, and
grass.
11. Tributary of the Missouri.--The most difficult part of
the road is passed, but the country is still hilly.
18 1/2. Tributary of the Missouri.--The road follows up the
last-mentioned stream to near its head. Good camps.
15. Near the summit of Little Blackfoot Pass, on a broad
Indian trail; excellent road.
14 3/4. Little Blackfoot River.--Road crosses the summit of
the Rocky Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many
camping-places.
17 1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Road good, descending along
the river. Near the camp a large fork comes in.
28 1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Good road, which follows the
broad, open valley for 14 miles. Good camps.
19 1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--The valley contracts so that
wagons will be forced to take the bed of the river
in some places. The river is fordable, and the trail
crosses it five times during the day.
22 1/2. Blackfoot River.--Sixteen miles from the last camp
"Blackfoot" and "Hell Gate" Rivers enter, and about
one mile of this distance is impassable for wagons;
they would have to cross the river, which is
fordable. Good camps.
27 1/2. Fort Owen.--Road runs up the St. Mary's River to Fort
Owen over a broad, good trail in the valley.
40. St. Mary's River.--The south Nez Perces trail leaves
the main trail, which ascends the St. Mary's Valley
to the Forks, and follows the southwest fork to its
source. To the Forks the valley of the St. Mary's is
open, and admits wagons.
24. Southwest Fork of St. Mary's River.--The road follows
a narrow trail, crossing the river frequently, and
is not passable for wagons. The valley is narrow,
and shut in by hills.
5 1/2. Kooskooskia River.--Road leaves the St. Mary's River,
passing over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River.
10. Branch.--Road runs over wooded hills.
14. Creek.--Road runs over wooded hills.
9. Small Creek.--This is the best camp between the St.
Mary's River and the Nez Perces country.
15. Small Creek.--Road passes over wooded hills.
9. Small Branch.--Road passes over wooded hills, is very
rough and difficult. Poor camp.
14. Small Creek.--Ten miles from last camp the road passes
a high divide, ascending rapidly, though not
difficult. Good grass on the summit, but no water.
13. Small Creek.--Good camp where the trail emerges from
the woods on to the high plateau.
7. Clear Water River.--Large tributary. Road runs over
high table-land, and descends to the valley of the
river.
43. Lapwai River.--The road follows a broad trail down the
river six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and
ascends the plateau, which extends to Craig's house,
on the Lapwai, fifteen miles from the river.
23. Tributary Snake River.--The trail runs over high
ground from Craig's to Lapwai River, 15 miles. This
river is 450 feet wide. No wood. Indians are
generally found here, who ferry over travelers. The
trail follow Snake River for several miles.
26 1/4. Tchannon River.--The trail passes 5 1/2 miles up the
bottom of a small creek; then runs over a steep hill
to another small creek, 8 miles; then along the
valley of this stream 10 1/2 mils; thence over a
high hill to camp on Tchannon River, 3 miles.
11 1/2. Touchet River.--The trail crosses the Tchannon River,
and ascends to a high plain, which continues to
camp.
32 1/2. Touchet River.--Road follows a good trail along the
valley, where good camps are found any where, with
wood, water, and grass.
19 1/2. Fort Wallah Wallah.--Leaving Touchet River, the trail
passes over again to the plains, when there is
neither wood, water, or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah.
Total distance from St. Paul's to Fort
Union.......................................712 1/2 miles.
" "
Fort Union to Fort Benton...................377 1/2 "
" "
Fort Benton to Fort Owen....................255 "
" "
Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah.............340 3/4 "
________
Total distance from St. Paul's, Min., to
Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon...............1685 3/4 "
ITINERARY XIX
XIX.--Lieutenant E.F. BEALE'S route
from Albuquerque to the Colorado River.
(Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.)
Miles.
Albuquerque to
2.10. Atrisco.--Wood, water, and grass.
20.63. Rio Puerco.--Water in pools; wood and grass.
19.41. Near Puta.--Abundance of wood, water, and grass.
13.12. Covera.--Water and grass abundant; wood scarce.
13.06. Hay Camp.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.
25.37. Agua Frio.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.
16.28. Inscription Rock.--Small spring; grass and wood plenty.
16.32. Ojo del Pescado.--Water and grass plenty; wood for camp.
15.13. Zuni.--Grass and water plenty; wood scarce.
6.19. Indian Well.--Wood, water, and grass.
14.43. No. 1.--Wood and grass; no water.
11.93. Jacob's Well.--Wood, water, and grass.
6.57. No. 2, Navajo Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
13.62. Noon Halt.--Water by digging; grass and wood scarce.
6.13. No. 3.--Grass abundant.
7.75. Noon Halt.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
7.25. No. 4.--Water in holes; grass and fuel plenty.
3.60. Three Lakes.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.75. Crossing Puerco.--Wood, water, and grass abundant as far
as Leroux Spring.
11.25. No. 5.
18.50. No. 6.
10.17. No. 7.
13.25. No. 8.
19.35. Canon Diablo.
14.75. No. 10.
13.50. Near Cosnino Caves.
17.32. San Francisco Spring.
9.06. Leroux Spring.
8.48. No. 13.--Wood and grass, but no water.
11.13. Breckenridge Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
8.07. No. 14.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
6.50. Cedar Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
10.50. No. 15.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
19.75. Alexander's Canon.--Wood and grass plenty; not much
water.
8.05. Smith's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
8.75. Pass Dornin.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.
13.50. No. 19.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.
16.35. No. 20.--Water two miles from camp; wood and grass
plenty.
4.06. Hemphill's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
21.25. No. 21.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
9.75. No. 22.--Wood and grass; spring one mile distant.
5.50. No. 23.--Wood and grass plenty; no water.
8.45. No. 24.--Wood and grass; spring three miles off.
16.75. No. 25.--Wood and grass; no water.
7.25. Sabadras Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
13.25. No. 26.--Wood; no grass or water.
8.75. Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.25. No. 27.--Wood, water, and grass.
3.17. No. 28.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.25. No. 29.--Wood,water, and grass.
3.11. No. 30.--Wood, water, and grass.
3.25. No. 31.--East bank of Colorado River; wood.
No. 32.--West bank; water and grass abundant.
ITINERARY XX
XX.--Captain WHIPPLE'S Route
from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San Pedro, California.
(Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile)
Miles.
Albuquerque to
0.88. Atrisco.--Permanent running water.
12.16. Isleta.--Permanent running water.
22.78. Rio Puerco.--Water in holes.
18.30. Rio Rita.--Permanent running water.
13.77. Covera.-- " "
14.66. Hay Camp.-- " "
17.71. Sierra Madre.--No water.
8.06. Agua Frio.--Permanent running water.
17.49. Inscription Rock.--El Moro. Permanent springs.
14.23. Ojo del Pescado.--Permanent springs.
11.74. Zuni.--Permanent running water.
8.83. Arch Spring.--Permanent spring.
10.77. ...........--No water.
19.69. Jacob's Well.--Permanent water-hole.
7.04. Navajo Spring.--Permanent springs.
12.13. Willow Creek.--Rio de la Jara. Water in holes.
10.87. Rio Puerco of the West.--Water in holes.
11.59. Lithodendron Creek.--Permanent running water.
11.99. Colorado Chiquito.-- " "
14.42. " -- " "
8.63. " -- " "
4.94. " -- " "
1.35. " -- " "
4.90. " -- " "
10.99. " -- " "
15.88. " -- " "
4.44. " -- " "
1.51. " -- " "
29.72. Colinino Caves.--Permanent water-holes.
11.81. Near San Francisco Spring.--No water; water 4 miles from
camp.
10.46. Leroux's Spring.--Permanent water.
8.23. ................--No water.
6.17. ................--No water.
8.54. New Year's Spring.--Permanent water.
9.77. Lava Creek.--Water in hole.
9.89. Cedar Creek.--Water in holes.
13.26. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.
3.89. " -- "
13.52. " -- "
0.87. Picacho Creek.-- "
7.45. .................--No water.
8.69. Turkey Creek.--Permanent running water.
5.71. Pueblo Creek.-- " "
6.67. " -- " water in holes.
5.98. " -- " "
5.80. Canon Creek.-- " "
12.16. " -- " "
0.30. " --Water in holes.
11.29. " -- "
9.64. Cactus Pass.--Permanent running water.
7.97. White Cliff Creek.--Permanent running water.
11.60. Big Horn Springs.--Permanent spring.
12.83. Mouth of Canon Creek.--Permanent running water.
9.21. "Big Sandy" Creek.-- " "
4.35. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
6.21. " -- " "
4.08. " -- " "
6.10. " -- " "
5.56. " -- " "
6.44. Mouth of Big Sandy Creek.--Permanent running water as
far as the Colorado River.
6.52. Rio Santa Maria.
8.97. "
6.85. "
7.22. "
3.90. "
8.69. "
4.33. Mouth of the Rio Santa Maria.
4.74. On Colorado River.
5.02. "
9.06. "
11.39. "
29.87. "
1.02. Mojave Villages.
9.46. Crossing of the Colorado River.
0.33. On Colorado River.
2.78. On Colorado River.
20.71. .............--The road, on leaving the Colorado, runs
up over a gravelly ridge to a barren niesa, and
descends the bed of the Mojave 4 or 5 miles above its
mouth, and at 9 1/2 miles it passes springs near the
point where the road turns around the western base of
a mountain. There is no water at the camp, but grass
in an arroya.
9.00. Pai-Ute Creek.--This is a fine stream, with good water
and grass.
13.00. Arroyo.--Grass and wood; water is found by digging.
7.00. Fine Spring.--Good water and grass. The wagon-road
passes around the hills, but an Indian trail leads
through the ravine where the spring is.
19.00. Marl Spring.--This is a small but constant spring;
excellent grass, and greasewood for fuel.
30.00. Lake.--The road follows a ridge for some distance, then
descends to an arroyo, and in a few miles emerges into
a sandy plain, where there is the dry bed of a lake,
which is firm, and makes a smooth, good road. The camp
is at some marshy pools of water. Good grass, and
greasewood for fuel.
12.00. Mojave River.--Road passes through a valley of drifted
sand, and at the camp strikes the river, which is here
a beautiful stream of fresh water, 10 to 12 feet wide
and a foot deep, with a hard, gravelly bottom. Grass
in the hills near.
13.00. Mojave River.--The road ascends the river, the banks of
which are covered with fine grass and mesquite wood.
Good camps along here.
20.00. Mojave River.--The road leads up the river for a short
distance, when it turns into an arroyo, and ascends to
a low mesa, and continues along the border of a level
prairie covered with fine bunch-grass. It then enters
the river bottom again, which is here several miles
wide, and well wooded. Grass good.
20.00. Mojave River.--Six miles from camp the road strikes the
Mormon road, and crosses the stream near a Mormon
camping-place. The trail runs along the river, which
gets larger and has more timber on its banks as it is
ascended. Good grass, wood, and water.
22.00. Mojave River.--A short distance from camp the valley
contracts, but the road is good. It leaves the valley
and crosses a gravelly ridge, but enters it again.
Good grass, wood, and water.
15.00. Mojave River.--Road continues along the right bank of
the river, in a southwest course, and crosses the
river at camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
29.50. Cajou Creek.--The road leaves the river at the crossing,
and runs toward a break in the San Bernadino
Mountains; it ascends a sharp hill and enters a cedar
thicket; it then ascends to the summit of the Cajou
Pass; thence over a spur of the mountains into an
arroyo or creek in a ravine; thence along the dry
channel of the Cajou Creek for two miles, where the
water begins to run, from thence the road is rough to
camp.
7.00. Cajou Creek.--Road continues along the creek to camp,
and is rough. Wood, water, and grass at camp.
20.00. Cocomouga's Ranch.--On a pretty stream of running water.
The road runs for six miles down the Cajou Creek,
along its steep and rocky bed. It is here a good-sized
stream. Captain Whipple's road here leaves the San
Bernadino road, and turns to the west along the base
of the mountains toward Los Angeles; it then crosses a
prairie and strikes the ranch of Cocomouga. Wood,
water, and grass.
24.00. Town of El Monte.--The road runs upon the northern
border of a basin which is watered by many small
streams, and is settled. The camp is on the pretty
stream of San Gabriel, where there is a good
camping-place.
14.25. City of Los Angeles.--The road passes the Mission of San
Gabriel, then enters a ravine among hills and broken
ground; it then descends and crosses the river which
waters the valley, and enters the city. There is a
good camp upon the point of a ridge on the left bank
of the river.
ITINERARY XXI
XXI.--From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California.
From Lieutenant R. S. WILLIAMSON'S Report.
(Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.)
Miles.
Fort Yuma, on Rio Colorado, to
6.51. Pilot Knob.
5.06. Algodones.
11.18. Cook's Wells.
21.11. Alamo Mocho.
14.16. Little Laguna.
10.29. Big Laguna.
12.92. Forks of Road.--The left-hand road leads to San Diego,
139..94 miles, the right-hand to San Francisco.
17.62. Salt Creek.
28.94. Water in the Desert.--Below point of rocks.
12.60. Cohuilla Village.
15.82. Deep Well.
10.62. Hot Spring.
7.36. East base of San Gorgonio Pass.
18.29. Summit of Pass.
27.10. San Bernadino.--Mormon town.
17.60. Sycamore Grove.
14.00. Qui-qual-mun-go Ranch.
26.60. San Gabriel River.--At crossing.
6.70. Mission of San Gabriel.
9.00. Los Angeles.
10.20. Cahuengo Ranch.--At the crossing of a branch of Los
Angeles River.
10.70. Mission of San Fernando.
5.90. Summit of San Fernando Pass.
7.15. Santa Clara River, southeast fork.
15.80. Summit of Coast Range.--In San Francisquito Pass.
18.00. Eastern base of Sierra Nevada.
6.70. Summit of Tejon Pass.
13.10. Depot Camp in the Tejon.
31.00. Kern River.--At the crossing.
10.80. Depot Camp on Pose Creek, or "O-co-ya."
24.30. White Creek.
14.90. More's Creek.
5.10. Tule River.
22.00. Deep Creek.--Deep Creek is the first of four creeks,
crossed by the wagon-road, into which the
"Pi-pi-yu-na" divides itself after emerging from the
Sierra. These streams are commonly known as the "Four
Creeks."
0.29. Cameron Creek.--The second of the "Four Creeks."
3.30. Kah-wee-ya River.--The third and principal one of the
"Four Creeks."
0.89. St. John's Creek.--The last of the "Four Creeks." At the
crossing.
28.13. Pool's Ferry.--On King's River.
12.32. Slough of King's River.
25.73. Fort Miller.--On San Joaquin River, in the foot-hills of
the Sierra Nevada.
9.40. Cottonwood Creek.
7.72. Fresno River.
12.15. Chowchilla River.--Sometimes known as "Big Mariposa."
10.39. Mariposa River.
6.03. Bear Creek.
18.33. Merced River.
18.87. Davis's Ferry.--Tuolumne River.
28.85. Grayson.--A ferry on the San Joaquin River.
27.54. Elk Horn.--The distance is by the wagon-road, and is
circuitous.
6.90. Summit of Livermore Pass.
7.20. Egress from Livermore Pass.
40.42. Martinez.--On the Straits of Carquives, opposite
Benicia, California.
Total distance from Fort Yuma to Benicia, 800.45 miles.
ITINERARY XXII
XXII.--A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd,
opened by Captain J. H. SIMPSON, U.S.A., in 1858.
Miles.
Fort Bridger to
6. Branch of Black's Fork.--Wood, water, and grass.
7 1/4. Cedar on Bluffs of Muddy.--Grass and wood all the way
up the ravine from the Muddy, and water at intervals.
5 1/2. Last water in ravine after leaving the Muddy.--Wood,
water, and grass.
5 3/4. East Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
Junction of Fort Supply road.
1/2. Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Sage, water, and
grass.
3. West Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Willow, water, and
grass; spring a mile below.
5 1/4. East Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
1/4. Middle Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
2 3/4. Main Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
9 3/4. First Camp on White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and
grass.
5 1/4. White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
15. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of
White Clay Creek.
3/4. Commencement of Canon.--Wood, water, and grass.
1/2. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of
White Clay Creek to the end of the lower canon.
12. Weber River.--Wood, water, and grass.
6. Parley's Park Road.--Wood, water, and grass. Pass over
the divide.
3 3/4. Silver Creek.--Willows, water, and grass.
6. Timpanogos Creek.--Wood, water, and grass. Cross over
the divide.
1. Commencement of Canon.--Wood, water, and grass.
24 1/2. Cascade in Canon.--Good camps at short intervals all
along Timpanogos Canon.
4 1/4. Mouth of Canon.--Wood and water.
6 1/4. Battle Creek Settlement.--Purchase forage.
3 1/4. American Fork Settlement.--Purchase forage.
3. Lehi (town).--Purchase forage. Grass near.
2 3/4. Bridge over Jordan.--Grass and water; wood in the hills
1 1/2 miles distant.
14. Camp Floyd.--Wood, water, and grass.
Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, 155 miles.
Note.--Captain Simpson says this wagon-route is far superior to
the old one in respect to grade, wood, water, and grass, and in
distance about the same.
ITINERARY XXIII
XXIII.--From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California.
(Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.)
Miles.
Fort Thorne, N. M., to
14.30. Water Holes.--One mile west of hole in rock. Water
uncertain; no wood.
9.19. Mule Creek.--Water at all seasons a little up the creek;
wood plenty.
12.00. Cook's Spring.--Water sufficient for camping; mesquite
bushes on the hills.
19.50. Rio Mimbres.--Water and wood abundant.
16.30. Ojo de la Vaca.--Water and wood.
12.00. Spring.--Constant small streams two miles up the canon;
water at the road uncertain.
44.40. Rancho.--Pond of brackish water one mile to the right,
four miles before reaching here.
13.90. Rio St. Simon.--Constant water a few miles up, and
mesquite wood.
18.40. Pass in the Mountains.--Water on the left about two
miles after entering the Pass.
6.40. Arroya.--Wood one mile up' water uncertain; small stream
crossing the road 1 1/2 miles from the last camp.
26.30. Nugent's Spring.--Large spring.--Excellent water one
mile south, at Playa St. Domingo.
17.20. Canon.--To the left of the road. Water 1 1/2 miles up
the canon, two miles from the road.
17.00. Rio San Pedro.--Water and wood abundant.
16.30. San Pedro.--Water abundant; wood distant.
20.80. Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant.
7.30. Along Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant; road rough.
21.80. Mission of San Xavier.--Large mesquite, and water plenty
in Santa Cruz River.
8.00. Tucson.--Village on Santa Cruz River. Tucson is the last
green spot on the Santa Cruz River. The best
camping-ground is two miles beyond the village, where
the valley widens, and good grass and water are
abundant.
7.20. Mud Holes.--The road passes over arroyas, but is rather
level.
65.00. Agua Hermal.--Road passes over a desert section, and is
hard and level. Water is found in most seasons, except
in early summer, in natural reservoirs on an isolated
mountain about midway, called "Picapo;" poor water and
tall, coarse grass at the mud-holes. Road here strikes
the Rio Gila.
15.10. Los Pimos.--Road follows the river bottom. Lagoos of bad
water near camp. Grass good; plenty of cottonwood and
mesquite.
13.20. Los Maricopas.--Road takes the river bottom, and passes
through cultivated fields; soil and grass good. The
Indian village is on a gravelly hill. The road is
good.
40.00. El Tegotal.--The road leaves the river and crosses the
desert. No water between this and the last camp at the
Maricopas' village. Road is good. The calita abounds
here, and the mules are fond of it.
10.50. Pega del Rio.--Road runs in the river bottom, and is
level. Good grass.
10.50. Mal Pais.--Road continues near the river, but over low
gravel-hills and through a short canon of deep sand.
9.50. Mil Flores.--Pass over a very steep precipice to an
elevated plateau, thence over gravel-hills 4 1/2 miles
to camp, where there is excellent grass and wood.
13.70. Santado.--Road keeps the river bottom until within four
miles of camp, when it turns over the plateau. Good
grass.
16.70. Las Lonas.--Road follows the river bottom. Scattered
bunch-grass on the hills.
11.40. Vegas.--Road follows along the river bottom. Grass poor.
16.80. Metate.--Road runs along at the foot of a rugged
mountain. Excellent grass at the camp.
14.70. El Horral.--Road ascends to the plateau, which it
follows for seven miles over a level country, then
descends over gravelly hills to the river. Camp on the
river bank near the desert. Wood plenty.
20.80. Los Algodones.--Road runs along at the foot of the hills
or spurs of the desert; small rugged hills, vegetation
dwarf mesquit, cacti, etc. Good grass at camp.
7.40. Fort Yuma, on the Rio Colorado.
Total distance from Fort Thorne, N. M., to Fort Yuma, 571 miles.
ITINERARY XXIV
XXIV.--Lieutenant BRYAN'S Route from the
Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass.
Miles.
Laramie Crossing to
14. Bryan's Crossing.--Road runs on the south side of the
Platte. Good grass and water.
12. First Crossing of Pole Creek.--Pole Creek is a rapid
stream, sandy bed. 15 feet wide, and two feet deep.
Good grass on the creek, and wood three miles off on
the bluffs.
37. Second Crossing of Pole Creek.--Road runs along the
creek. Good grass and good camps at any point. Good
road.
17 1/4. Third Crossing of Pole Creek.--Good camp. Wood on the
bluffs.
20 1/2. Fourth Crossing of Pole Creek.--Creek dry for three
miles. Good grass.
20 1/4. Bluffs covered with dead pines.--Creek is crossed
several times. Road runs over a rough, broken
country. Good grass.
14 1/2. Road from Fort Laramie to New Mexico.--Road rather
rough. The valley opens out into a wide plain. Plenty
of grass.
10 1/2. On Pole Creek.--Good road; good camp.
20. On Pole Creek.--Road crosses several ravines, most of
which can be avoided by keeping on the bluffs; the
valley in narrow. Grass not very good.
17 1/2. Cheyenne Pass.--Road passes over a rolling country.
Good grass; willows for fuel. Military post
established here.
14 1/2. Summit of Black Hills.--Source of Pole Creek. Grass
poor.
10 1/4. East Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp.
16. West Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp. Cherokee trail
comes in here.
14. Cooper's Creek.--Wood and grass.
10 1/2. East Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.--Wood and grass as far
as Pass Creek.
2 1/2. Small Creek.
6. Birch Creek.
5 1/4. West Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.
2. Flint's Creek.
3. Elm Creek.
7. Rattlesnake Creek.
5. Pass Creek.
14 1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Good road over high prairie.
Five miles before reaching the river the Cherokee
trail turns to the left, and crosses three miles
above. Good camps on the river.
3 1/2. First Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good road. Grass not
plenty.
10 1/2. Second Crossing of Sage Creek.--Road runs through Sage
Creek Valley; hilly, broken, and sterile country,
covered with sage-brush. Grass not abundant. Cherokee
trail leaves three miles back.
4. Third Corssing of Sage Creek.--Road continues through
sage-brush. Grass gets better.
3. Fourth Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good grass, wood, and
water.
9. Bridger's Pass.--Road runs over a hilly country,
crossing several small branches, with a little grass
upon their banks; country covered with sage.
3 1/2. Muddy Creek.--The valley of the "Muddy" is deep and
narrow at first, and afterward opens out. The
crossings of this creek were either bridged or paved
by the troops in 1858. But little grass in this
valley.
20 1/2. Near Muddy Creek.--Very little grass; poor camp.
16 1/2. Bridger's Fork of the Muddy Creek.--The road for
thirteen miles runs over a rolling country, then over
a rough, broken country, with deep ravines. No water
in this fork in a dry season; small springs of
brackish water near the crossing. Grass poor.
4. Small Spring.--Water bad; grass poor.
2 1/2. Small Spring.--In the bluff. Water bad; grass poor.
1. Haystack.--Clay butte. Spring in the dry bed of the
creek. Bunch-grass.
5 1/2. Small Springs.--In bluffs on the right of the road.
Grass poor and water bad.
7 1/2. Springs.--There is a fine spring at the foot of a steep
hill on the south side of the road. Very little
grass; rushes on the creek.
3 1/2. South Fork of Bitter Creek.--Good grass and water.
14 3/4. On Bitter Creek.--Country hilly, and intersected with
deep ravines. South Fork is a find stream of good
water.
16. Sulphur Springs.--Road very hilly, crossing many deep
ravines. Grass and sage plenty.
9. Bitter Creek Crossing.--No grass at the crossing. Water
bitter when the creek is down, but tolerable in high
water. Road rough, with numerous ravines.
18 1/2. North Fork of Bitter Creek.--Cherokee trail enters near
the crossing. Road good, but little grass except in
spots. Sage for fuel.
4. Bluffs.--Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs
on the right of the road in the cottonwood groves.
Grass good and abundant at the base of the bluffs.
11 3/4. Green River.--Road is very rough and hilly, and winds
along the valley of the creek. Good camp on the
river, with plenty of wood and grass.
15 3/4. Crossing of Black's Fork.--Road runs up through Rabbit
Hollow, which is steep and sandy; it then passes over
rolling prairie to Black's Fork. Bunch-grass on the
hills, and good camp at the crossing.
11 1/4. Fort Laramie Road.--Rolling country; good road through
sage bushes. Good camps along the creek.
5 3/4. Ham's Fork.--Good camp on either side of the creek.
United States bridge here; good road.
3/4. Black's Fork Crossing.--Good ford except in high water,
when the right-hand road on the north bank of the
creek is generally traveled.
14 1/2. Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good road; fine camp;
plenty of wood, water, and grass.
2 3/4. Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good camp; good road.
2 3/4. Smith's Fork.--Good camp; good road.
11 3/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camp near; good road.
Total distance from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to
Fort Bridger, 520 1/2 miles. By the Fort Laramie road the
distance is 569 miles.
ITINERARY XXV
XXV.--Wagon-route from Denver City at the
Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah.
Miles.
Denver City to
5. Vasquez Fork.--Good road and fine camp.
19 1/2. Thompson's Fork.--Road crosses three creeks about five
miles apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied
with water and grass, but wood is scarce.
16 1/2. Bent's Fork.--Road crosses two streams about five miles
apart; no wood on the first. Good camp.
26. Cashe la Poudre River.--Excellent road crossing two
streams at ten and twenty-three miles from the last
camp; good camps on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine
large stream which issues from the mountains near the
road, and is difficult to cross in high water. It has
a firm bottom. Good camps along this stream, with
plenty of wood and grass.
16. Beaver Creek.--Road turns to the left and enters the
hills, ascending very gradually between two lines of
bluffs, and is good except in wet weather. Good camp.
19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Beaver Creek three times,
affording good camps. Road is hilly, but not very
rough, passing for a portion of the distance through
a timbered region. Elk and mountain sheep are
abundant in this section. The camp is near the summit
of the divide. Grass short.
17 1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Good road on the divide.
Grass and water plenty, but wood not abundant.
18 1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road passes Laramie Fork
three miles from the last camp. Good camp.
21. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road crosses a small creek
at 14 miles from last camp. Fine camp.
17. Medicine Bow Creek.--At twelve miles the road crosses
Sulphur Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the
Laramie Lieutenant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles
from the last camp there are two roads--one, Bryan's,
leading north of the Medicine Bow Butte, and the
other to the south of it. The former is the best.
Good camp.
17 1/2. Prairie Creek.--Fine camp. A portion of the road is
very rough. It crosses several small branches upon
which good camps may be had. Fine game section, with
bear, elk, etc., in great abundance.
12 1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Excellent camp. Leave
Bryan's road four miles back, taking the left, which
is altogether the best of the two. The crossing of
the Platte is good except in high water, when it is
very rapid. A flat-boat was left here by Colonel
Loring's command in 1858.
12 1/2. Clear Creek.--Sage for fuel; grass short.
23. Dry Creek.--Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's
Pass, and bears to the right, passing over a smooth
country covered with sage and poorly watered; passes
a pond of milky water at thirteen miles. There is
water in Dry Creek except in a very dry season. Two
miles from the creek, on the old trail, there is a
fine spring on the left of the road, which runs down
into the road, and here is the best grass after
leaving the Platte, with plenty of fuel.
10 1/2. Muddy Creek.--Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry
Creek, and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited
number of animals; fine grass along near the bank of
the creek. Bad crossing. Buffalo seen here.
19 1/2. Lake.--Old trail enters near this camp. Road passes a
brackish spring four miles back. The road may be
shortened by bearing to the left and skirting the
hills for about six miles before reaching the lake.
The water in the lake is not good, but drinkable, and
will be abundant except in the very dryest part of
the summer. Grass is good on the hills. The road from
Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30 miles.
24 1/2. Red Lakes.--Road is good, but traverses a very dry and
sterile region. The water is not good in the lakes,
but drinkable, and may go dry in midsummer. Grass
tolerable.
22. Seminoes Spring.--After passing the flats at the Red
Lakes the road is smooth and good, and there is a
good camp at Seminoes Spring.
12 1/2. Bitter Creek.--New road to the left, cutting off ten or
twelve miles. Good camp; water a little saline, but
drinkable.
25. Sulphur Spring.--Road runs along the valley of Bitter
Creek, where there is but little grass until reaching
camp. Animals should be driven across the creek into
the hills, where the best grass is found.
17. Green River.--Road leaves Bitter Creek, at Sulphur
Spring, and passes near some high bluffs, where there
are small springs and good grass. Excellent camp at
Green River. From here the road runs over the same
track as Bryan's road to Fort Bridger. From all the
information I have been able to obtain regarding
Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek through
Bridger's Pass, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I am
inclined to believe that the road we traveled is much
the best. It is said that Lieutenant Byran's route
from Bridger's Pass to Green River has a scarcity of
grass. The water is brackish, and the supply limited,
and may fail altogether in a dry season. The road
passes through deep valleys and canons, crossing
muddy creeks and deep ravines. The creeks have been
bridged and the ravines cut down so as to form a
practicable road; but freshets will probably occur in
the spring, which will destroy a great deal of the
work, and may render the road impassable.--Lieutenant
Duane's Notes.
The other road is for the greater part of the distance smooth,
and has a sufficiency of grass is places, but the water may
become scarce in a very dry season.
ITINERARY XXVI
XXVI.--From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney.
Nebraska City, on the Missouri River, is a point from whence a large
amount of the supplies for the army in Utah are sent, and one of the
contractors, Mr. Alexander Majors, speaks of this route in the following
terms: "The military road from Fort Leavenworth crosses very many
tributaries of the Kansas River, the Soldier, the Grasshopper, etc., etc.,
which are at all times difficult of passage. There are no bridges, or but
few, and those of but little service. From Nebraska City to Fort Kearney,
which is a fixed point for the junction of all roads passing up the
Platte, we have but one stream of any moment to cross. That one is Salt
Creek, a stream which is now paved at a shallow ford with solid rock.
"There is no other stream which, even in a high freshet, would stop a
train a single day. Again, upon this route we have an abundance of good
grazing every foot of the way to Fort Kearney. The route from Nebraska
City is about 100 miles shorter to Fort Kearney than that from Fort
Leavenworth, the former being less than 200 miles and the latter about 300
miles."
From Nebraska City to Salt Creek
is.......................................40 miles.
" Salt Creek to Elm Creek
is.......................................60 "
" Elm Creek to Fort Kearney
is......................................100 "
Upon the entire route there is an abundance of wood, water,
and grass, and camping-places frequent.
ITINERARY XXVII
XXVII.--From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico.
By Colonel W. W. LORING, U.S.A.
Miles.
Camp Floyd to
23. Goshen.--The road runs throug Cedar Valley; is level
and good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The
left runs near the lake, and has good camps upon it.
Thence to a fine spring, where there is a good camp,
is 3 miles. Grass continues good to the camp near
Goshen. Wood, water, and grass abundant.
14. Salt Creek.--Road runs over a mountain in a direct
course to a fine spring branch, which is a good camp;
thence through a meadow to a small branch 3 miles,
striking the old Mormon road again opposite a mud
fort, where there is a fine spring and good camp;
thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are
good camps.
18. Pleasant Creek.--Near the last camp the road forks, one
running to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other
to Salt Creek Canon, which is the one to be taken.
The road runs up the canon 5 miles; thence up its
small right-hand fork to a spring, 3 miles; thence to
camp. Good camps can be found any where after
crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood, water,
and grass.
19 1/2. Willow Creek.--Road at 6 1/2 miles passes a fine
spring; half a mile farther is another spring, where
the road forks. Take the right through a meadow; it
is 3 or 4 miles shorter. To the crossing is 3 miles;
thence to the main road again 3 miles; to the village
of Ephraim 5 miles. Good camp.
12. Lediniquint Creek.--At 6 miles pass Manti; thence to
Salt and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp, with
a fine spring, wood, and grass.
15. Lediniquint Creek.--Road passes over a rugged country
for 4 miles, to a creek; thence one mile it crosses
another creek; thence 2 1/2 miles up the creek, where
there is a good camp. The road improves, and for 8 or
9 miles camps can be found by leaving the creek a
short distance. The creek on which the camp is is
muddy, with narrow channel.
18. Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek.--Road is good over a
barren country to the pointed red hills near the
entrance to Wasatch Pass, 7 miles. From the red hills
cross Salt Creek 3 times in 4 miles; grass fair at 2d
crossing; very good at 3d crossing, and a good camp.
Road rough for 3 miles after leaving the creek. The
road then enters a fine valley, with plenty of blue
and bunch grass. Road is level to within a mile of
the camp. Wood, water, and grass abundant at camp.
7 1/2. Head of Branch of Salt Creek.--Road runs over a ridge
at 2 miles, thence one mile to a small branch. Grass
abundant. Road runs along the branch 3 miles; in
places very rough, with some sand; ascends the entire
distance, and the camp is very elevated. Good spring
at camp.
5 3/4. Salt Creek.--Road passes over a ridge 2 1/2 miles to a
spring. Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring
worked the road at this place. It crosses the creek 6
times within the 5 3/4 miles. Good camp, with
abundance of wood, water, and grass.
6 1/2. Silver Creek.--Road traverses a rolling section, is
good, passes several springs where there are good
camps, and crosses several trails which lead from
California to New Mexico.
17 1/2. Media Creek.--At two miles the road passes the dividing
ridge between the waters of Salt Lake and Green
River; thence two miles' descent to Shipley Creek,
where is a good camp. For about a mile the road is
rough, but then descends into an open plain where the
road is good. The ground is rough about the camp, and
covered with sage and greasewood. Two miles up the
creek, near the canon, is some grass, but it is not
abundant here.
19 3/4. St. Raphael Creek.--Road passes a rolling section for 5
miles; thence 1 1/2 mile to Garamboyer Creek, where
there is a good camp; thence, with the exception of a
short distance, the road is good to the Knobs, 9
miles, when it is broken for 4 1/2 miles. Good camp.
11 3/4. San Matio Creek.--For 3 miles the road is over a
rolling section, with steep hills, to a creek, where
is a good camp; thence, for 3 miles along the creek,
soft soil and heavy road; thence 5 miles to another
creek, some grass, but not plenty; thence to camp the
road is rough in places. Good camp.
14 1/4. In the Hills.--Road runs over a rolling country 2 1/2
miles to San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is
good grass and water, with sage. Two miles farther
over a gravelly road, then a good plain road for 9
3/4 miles to camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
23. Spring.--Road for the first ten miles is rocky, when it
strikes a spring, where there is a good camp; thence
2 miles to water in a tank, not permanent; thence the
road is on a ridge for 6 miles, and is good; thence 3
miles the road is sandy. The spring at camp is large,
with plenty of wood, but the grass is scarce. Down
the creek it is more abundant.
18. Green River.--For 5 miles the road is sandy; thence the
road is good for the remainder of the distance to
camp, where there is plenty of wood, water, and
grass.
13. 13. Mile Spring.--Green River can be forded at ordinary
stages. Road runs among several arroyas for a few
miles, and is then straight and good to camp. Good
grass a mile to the east of camp.
An Arroya.--Road runs between two rocky buttes, and
strikes the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at
the same place, but is very tortuous. Water not
permanent here; good grass three fourths of a mile
from camp.
20 1/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road passes over a broken country to
a water-hole, 9 miles; grass abundant; thence there
is sand in places; crosses several arroyas. Camp is
between two mountains. Wood, water, and grass
abundant.
12. Grand River.--Road is over a rolling country; in places
light sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.
13. Grand River.--Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon
road runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring
thinks it is better than the one he traveled. Good
camp.
16 3/4. 1 1/2 mile from Grand River.--The first 3 miles is
level then the road passes over a very elevated
ridge, and descends into the valley. Grand River runs
through a canon, and can not be reached with the
animals. Road in places sandy. Good camp.
9 1/2. Grand River.--At two miles strike Salt Creek, where the
Mormon road passes up a dry creek toward Gray
Mountain. Road skirts the mountains along Grand
River, and is rough in places, passing over abrupt
hills. Good camp.
16 3/4. Grand River.--Road runs over a level and firm section,
with good camps at any point along the river. Cross
the Mormon and other trails. Good ford at the
crossing except in high water. Good camp.
18 1/2. On an Arroya.--Road runs over an undulating surface,
crossing several small streams issuing from Elk
Mountain, affording good camps at almost any place,
and strikes Marcy's and Gunnison's trails. Good camp.
15 1/4. Grand River.--Rolling country; high ridges with abrupt
slopes for 6 1/4 miles; thence into a plain for 7 1/4
miles to Double Creek. Good camps.
12. Oncompagre River.--Good ford except in high water. At 6
miles cross a dry creek; thence 3 miles over a high,
level, and firm road; strike a large trail; descend a
hill with gentle slope into the Valley of Oncompagre,
where there are fine camps. Winter resort for Ute
Indians.
14 1/2. Oncompagre River.--Road runs along the valley of the
Oncompagre, is good, and camps may be found at any
point, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
13. Cedar Creek.--Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to
the east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountains,
6 miles; thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp,
where are wood, water, and grass. The Gap is the
first opening in the mountains above the mouth of the
Oncompagre.
8 3/4. Devil's Creek.--Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek,
over thedivide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and
is rough, with a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow
canon called Devil's Gate, with high perpendicular
bluffs. Good camp.
3. North Fork of Devil's Creek.--Road very rocky, and
worked by Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's
trails pass here. Good camp.
7 3/4. Cebola Creek.--Road passes over abrupt hills covered
with pine. Good camp.
5 1/2. Ruidos Creek.--Road rough, with abrupt ascents and
descents. Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.
13. Grand River.--Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles,
then rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and
descending into the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail
River, where is a good camp. Plenty of brook trout in
all the streams in this section.
14 1/2. Grand River.--Road crosses the river three times;
bottom wide; grass and wood abundant. Cross several
beautiful streams, upon which are good camps. Some
sand and rough places, but generally good road. Game
and brook trout abundant in this region. Indians
resort to this section a great deal.
18. Cutebetope Creek.--At about 5 miles the Cutebetope
Creek enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful
valley, which the road crosses, and strikes the creek
near the Point of Rocks, where the valley is only 40
yards wide, but after passing the Point it opens
again. The course of the creek is nearly north. Good
camps.
20. Spring near Beaver Creek.--Road crosses several small
creeks, where are good camping-places. Good camp.
16 3/4. Sawatch Creek.--Road runs over a very rough and
mountainous section for 14 miles to the summit of the
Rocky Mountains; thence it descends to camp, where
grass, wood, and water are abundant.
21 1/2. Sawatch Creek.--Road rough and rocky in places; strikes
the main Sawatch Creek at 9 1/2 miles; crosses
numerous small branches, where are grass, wood, and
good water in abundance.
25 1/2. Camero Creek.--Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch Buttes, is
good; thence 1 1/2 mile to the last crossing of the
Sawatch, where is a good camping-place. Good camp at
Camero Creek.
3 1/2. Garita Creek.--Good road and good camp.
16 1/2. Rio Grande.--Road level and good. Good camps along the
river at almost any point.
6. Rio Grande.--Good road and camp.
17 1/2. Fort Garland, Hay Camp.--Road continues down the river,
and is good. For six miles there is timber, but after
this willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay
is cut at this place for Forts Massachusetts and
Garland.
16. Culebra Creek.--At 4 3/4 miles cross Trinchera Creek,
where is a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps
any where on Culebra Creek.
24 3/4. Latos Creek.--Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, 10 3/4
miles. Good camp.
14. Ascequia, near Lama Creek.--Road crosses several small
branches. At 9 1/2 miles strike Red River. Grass at
camp good, but not abundant.
19 3/4. Meadow near Indian Puebla.--At 6 miles the road crosses
the Can Christobal; thence over another ridge into
the valley of the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.
2. Taos, New Mexico.--Good road. At taos are several
stores, where goods of all descriptions can be had at
fair prices.
13. Taos Creek Canon.--Road passes through the settlement,
where grain and vegetables can be obtained. It then
enters the Taos Canon at 3 miles, and crosses the
Canon Creek frequently to camp. Good camp.
29. Gaudelapepita.--At 5 miles the road ascends to the
dividing ridge, and is tolerable; thence in 4 miles
cross the mountain, and reach a fine spring branch,
where is a fine camp. Thence the road passes short
ridges for 9 miles to Black Lake. Good camp.
Fort Union.--Road follows Coyote Canon 3 miles; thence
one mile to Mexican settlement; thence 19 1/2 miles
over the prairie to the fort.
Colonel Loring came over the route from Camp Floyd to Fort Union with a
large train of wagons. He, however, found the road in many places upon the
mountains very rough, and it will require working before it will be
suitable for general travel with loaded wagons. It is an excellent route
for summer travel with pack trains, and is well supplied with the
requisites for encamping.
From Fort Union to Fort Garland the road passes through a settled
country, where supplies of grain and vegetables can at all times be
purchased at reasonable prices, and there are small towns met with during
almost every day's march where small shops supply such articles of
merchandise as the traveler needs.
ITINERARY XXVIII
XXVIII.--Wagon-route from Guaymas, New Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona.
From Captain STONE'S Journal.
Miles.
Guaymas to
10 1/4. Rancho del Cavallo.--Good wood, water, and grass.
9. Rancho de la Noche Buena.--Good wood and grass, but no
water for animals in May and June.
19 5/8. Rancho de la Cuneguinta.--Good wood, water, and grass
the year round; water in tanks and wells.
15 3/4. Rancho del Posito.--Good wood and grass the year round;
water for men at all times, and for animals except in
the months of May and June.
8. Rancho de la Palma.--Wood, water, and grass at all
times.
16 3/8. Rancho de la Paza.--Good wood, water, and grass at all
seasons.
16. Hermosillo.--This is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, on
Sonora River, where all supplies may be procured.
13. Hacienda de Alamito.--Plenty of running water, wood,
grass, and grain.
8. Hacienda de la Labor.--Plenty of running water, grass,
and grain.
28. Rancho de Tabique.--Roughest part of the road, but not
difficult for wagons. Wood, water, and grass. From
Hermosillo to this place there is water at short
intervals along the road.
36. Rancho Querebabi.--Wood and grass; water in tanks.
12. Barajita.--Small mining village. Bad water; good wood
and grass.
13. Santa Ana.--Village on teh River San Ignacio. Plenty of
wood, water, and grass.
12. La Magdalena.--Thriving town, where all supplies can be
procured.
5. San Ignacio.--Village on the river. Good wood, water,
and grass.
6 3/4. Imuris.--Village on the river. Wood, water, and grass.
11 1/2. Los Alisos Rancho.--Wood, water, and grass.
3 1/2. La Casita.--Wood, water, and grass.
3 1/2. Cibuta.--Wood, water, and grass.
11 1/4. Agua Zarca.--Wood, water, and grass.
23 1/4. Rancho de las Calabasas.--Wood, water, and grass.
13. Tubac.--Silver mines at this place.
Total distance from Guaymas to Tubac, 295 miles.
Note.--During the months of July, August, and September, water will be
found at almost any part of the road from La Casita to Hermosillo. There
is no lack of wood or grass on any part of the road from Guaymas to the
frontier. The only difficulty in encamping at almost any point upon the
road is that of obtaining water in the dry season, i.e., from February to
the first of July. The remarks for each place apply to the most unfavorable
seasons.
The Prairie Traveler - End of Itineraries B
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