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To Nebraska in '57 - Pages 3-21
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THE DIARY
March 9th 1857 --Left home with the intention of being absent longer
than any previous trip I had ever taken from my own fireside. Still I had
none of those feelings which usually possess me at parting with my nearest
and dearest of friends and relatives. I had no realizing sence of any
protracted absence more than I would feel on going to my daily business.
Days previous to my departure however were days of deep thought and
reflection. The simplest acts of my children were unusually interesting to
me and remarks
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that at any other time I would barely notice would make my heart swell and
tears start unbidden in my eyes. But when the day for my departure arrived
I was suffering with bodily ills of a more serious nature than I was
willing to own and my mind was wholly occupied with those ills which were
at the time painfull in the extreme. With as little ceremony as possible I
bid goodby to my family and rode down to the depot chatting by the way
with Irwin who "wanted to ride down with father." He was so taken up with
his ride he was not inclined to get out of the sleigh and when I had
bought my ticket and looked around to bid him good-by he was not to be
found. He had remained in the sleigh where I found him bundled up playing
the owner of the sleigh, as large as any one. I asked him if he was not
going to bid me good-by? "Oh yes!" he says and the words he would have
uttered in addition choked in his throat. He kissed me and when I had got
a few feet from the sleigh he said Good-bye Pa! with a force to it I could
but notice as coming from a full heart.
Only a short time was occupied in reaching and crossing the ferry at
Black Rock and getting under way on the Canada Side. The excitement of
changing at Black Rock from cars to boat and boat to cars, had the effect
to exhaust me considerable. For me at least, We were fortunate, in having
but few passengers. I monopolized two whole seats near the stove and slept
some before we reached Paris. At Paris we made the connection with the
Great Western Cars. By the time we had reached London I began to regret my
having left home in the condition I did. Continued to get sicker until
about four o'clock p. m. when my feelings changed as if by Magic and I
felt like a new being, ate a hearty supper on the boat crossing from
Windsor to Detroit, and except from weakness and lassitude felt as well as
I ever did in my life.
At Detroit called on Mr. Frazer who gave me a pass to Michigan City.
Got a seat in the cars near the stove. Left at 9.20 and slept some of the
way to Marshal.
Tusday 10th Walked from the Depot up to the Marshal House and went to
bed a three o'clock A. M. Slept but little, at seven breakfasted and soon
after got a buggy from the livery to take me up four Miles on the plank.
had a pleasant but cold ride, found cousin's family all well. Cousin Joel
Mack has a fine farm of 160 acres a good large frame house and is very
comfortably situated, has a family of six children the two oldest boys who
are married and living away by themselves the two next daughters one 20
the other 16 years of age, a boy 13 and the baby a girl of five years
completes his list of children. His daughter of 16 is the largest of the
children is a perfect picture of My Sister Sybil when I last saw her and
the baby is just another such a person as was Sister Emily at her age. The
more I saw them the more I saw a resemblance both in looks and actions,
but I do not believe Abigail the one resembling Sybil will live long she
has a hard cough which I believe will prove fatal. My stay at Cousin Joels
was a pleasant one. Cousin is a great speller and gramarian is a boy with
his children and joins in their studies his Wife is just such a farmers
wife as others I have seen.
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The Most interesting member of the family however was Aunt Abigail. In
most respects she bears her eighty-five winters remarkably well, in
walking she uses a cain and stands in a stooping position exactly as does
Mrs. Hodge. She will weigh about 175 lbs. her weight in health was 200.
She some resembles Uncle Chauncy in feature, but she has the eyes and nose
of My father. I spent the day wholly with her most agreeably and
instructive. She would ask me many questions about my Uncles and Aunts,
and in a few hours ask much the same questions. Then she would remember
she had asked before and received the same answer. When I informed her
that all her Mothers and first step mothers children were dead she would
remark with tears and a trembling voice "Yes they are all gone not one of
my old acquaintance is living all are in their graves and why am I left?
Yes and I have buried two husbands and eight of my ten children" She could
not speak of the past without tears, not even of the days when she was a
little girl and went to the village school of Colchester Con. which was
about a half mile from her fathers house and Shop When she spoke of the
death of her first stepmother she wept like a child. She was the only
Mother she ever knew and was one of the best of Mothers to her. "A few
days before she died" says Aunt "She nursed Flavel then but ten Months
old, kissed him and handed him to me and said she should never nurse him
again, gave him to me as my child and said I must have him sleep with me
and he kind and good to him for he never would know what it was to have a
Mother to care for him and I always felt he was my child" When Aunt told
this she would manifest as much grief as she could have done the day her
Mother died. Her grief was monitory as that of a child.
Her bodily health and apetite is as good as it ever was and she can eat
as wholesome food, she is but very little care, occupies her own corner
with her own chair and table she used when young eats by herself and lives
within herself, reads but little except her bible that is her all. She
read over the old family Record of uncle James a number of times and
expressed no little surprise she should have remembered her own age She
was pleased to have me ask her for her degareotype but said she had no
money to get it taken with but would go up and sit for it had never had
one taken.
Wednesday 11 Slept comfortably last night and for the first time in
years between woollen sheets in the regular old fashioned style. After a
late breakfast Cousin harnessed to a cutter we helped Aunt in and started
for Marshal Cousin was the first setler where he now lives, his team made
the first waggon track where now the planck road runs The vicinity is
thickly settled with wealthy farmers and fine farm buildings.
Aunt bore her ride well walked up and down stairs without assistance.
The artist who took her picture does not understand his business and made
a picture I did not fancy If Mr Evans had had such a subject he would
have done it justice but a poor opperator a poor subject poor tools poor
stock alltogether what more could be expected
When all was ready to start, Aunt comfortably seated in the sleigh, she
took hold of me to bid me good bye and thank me for having her picture
taken. She said "When you write to your mother and your wife and children
remember
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me with love to them, remember me to my brothers and sisters living and
Erastus remember your Creator!" Aunt has been a very intelligent woman for
her time or for the times in which she has lived. I wish I could be where
she was a month.
Leaving the deguerrean room I went to the depot learned that the cars
had run off the track and were three hours behind time did not get away
until Six P. M. and reached Michigan City at a little past eleven the same
night, but 20 Minutes too late for the Cars the next train was to leave
the next day at ten A. M. I accordingly went to the Jewell house and to
bed.
On leaving Marshall a Novelty presented itself, in the form of a little
boy about Irwin's age and hight but more chubby he followed the business
of making speeches on the cars and then passing around his hat. He
understood the business to perfection. When he first commenced his hat off
and his hair brussled up I thought him crazy but soon discovered my
mistake. He had a powerful voice and could controll it like an orritor
every one could here him in the car and the speed was 30 miles an hour. A
new way to raise the wind.
Thursday 12 A clear and stinging cold morning. Time hanging heavily I
walked out to see the town as soon as the sun was up sufficiently to warm
the atmosphere. Michigan City is in Indiana on the shoar of Lake Michigan
is the junction of the new Albany and Salem R. R. is a fine place for a
town but can never amount to much, as a city. It is somewhat protected
from the winds of the lake by very high bluffs rising near two or three
hundred feet. These bluffs have some shrubberry and scattering oaks, and
covered with sand from the lake which is thrown up in drifts by the high
and almost constant blowing wind. The present covering of the bluffs is
composed of about equal parts of snow and sand, and this morning was froze
as hard as ice still I succeeded in reaching the top of the highest bluf
by pulling myself up by the shrubs and crawling on my hands and knees in
real Mount blanc style. From the top of the bluff I could see for one
hundred miles in all directions and could easily imagine myself one of the
daring adventurers of Mt. Blanc itself on a small scale.
The time passed as easily as I could expect and at 10.10 A. M. I left
on the cars in a direct South course. For the first ninety miles the
country was mostly prarrie and wet at that, and the most untractible
country I ever saw it is a Hoosier" state in earnest. The buildings were
nothing but the poorest kind of logg huts, and unless you saw some human
animals you would not think they were inhabited, all they raise is corn
and pork. This also constitutes their sole diet spiced with the "shakes"
without which they think they could not live they make as much
calculations about having the shakes fall and spring as they to to have
the seasons themselves come and go in fact they coud not live if they did
not have the shakes half the time. Whole fields of corn were only cut up
and stood out all winter, on account of the shakes taking them too soon in
many places they were drawing in their corn.
Near many of the log huts, some of which were deserted I noticed small
enclosures formed by driving short stakes in the ground a few inches apart
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and but two or three feet high. These varied in size from ten to one
hundred feet square. Internally they presented no different appearance
from the immediate vicinity which convinced me they were not gardens. On
inquiry I was told they were graveyards. Many of which contained whole
familys. These yards were usually in a few rods of the house and in many
locations were the only show of improvement or civilization.
Every hours progress we made we could see we was fast leaving the
vicinity of snow, and when we reached Lafayette at 3.30 P. M. there was
but very little snow to be seen. About 2 oclock we saw black birds and
Meadow larks and soon after leaving Lafayette large flocks of prairie hens.
At 7 P. M. we reached Indianapolis where we were obliged to wait until
Eleven P. M. before starting for Cincinnati. This evening was a delightful
one not cold enough to require winter over coats and seemed like an April
night at home.
Friday 13 Reached Cincinnati five o'clock this Morning and put up at
the "Burett House" had an early breakfast made a scedule of my business
for the day and at nine o'clock had all my business that called me to
Cincinnati done. Got My boots by Express from Buffalo found them too large
by two or three sizes so I am almost bootless.
Nine o'clock commenced searching for James Pennington searched all day
but withous success. A marked change in the atmosphere between this place
and where I was yesterday morning. There was good sleighing and the
thermometer near Zero here they were wattering broadway to keep down dust
Cincinnati at this season of the year is remarkably brisk the principal
exports I saw was whisky pork and ready made buildings which is a great
business here. The levee is litteraly crowded with boxes, barrels, carts
drays &c and every steamer crowding on freight altogether it is the
busyest place I ever saw.
At five oclock P. M. Took passage on board the steam Packet Memphis
bound for Memphis and Hickman Tenn. The officers of the boat protested
against the large amount of freight the proprietors put on, as there was
but a little over five feet water on the bars and the boat was loaded down
to a draught of near seven feet. In this state we left at ten o'clock at
night soon after I had retired
Saturday 14 Had made good headway during the night but about ten
o'clock A. M. when within 20 miles of Louisville we grounded, and remained
there until ten at night. Could only get off by getting two flat boats and
taking out some one hundred ton to lighten her. These flat boats are kept
along the river for this purpose and are called lighters. The bed of the
Ohio is hard gravel and a boat can not work off as on the sand bars of the
Missouri. We have a variety of passengers some fifty in all mostly
Southerners they all take me for a Southerner. We have a "Nigger" trader
on board
Sunday 15 -- A delightfull day. More like the Middle of May in Buffalo
than the 15th of March. It has been a day of anxious watching for Captain
crew and passengers, as the barge from Cincinnati has been hourly expected
but has failed to reach us. I have walked over the principal parts of the
City
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in Company with a young man from Philadelphia. Louisville like Cincinnati
presents a very dingy appearance owing to burning so much coal. The
Streets are wide and well supplied with shade trees which are much needed
in the summer which are very warm here. Towards Evening we walked up in
the vicinity of the best residence which was quite a treat to Me doors and
windows were thrown open, and Ladies were out on the steps and balconies
with nothing on their heads, and dressed in late spring dresses. It was in
great contrast with the previous Sunday in Buffalo which was like mild
winter
We saw during the day a number of funerals The hearses in use here are
glazed on both sides and ends rendering the coffin wholly visible. The
Hearse is painted black and trimed with silver on the sides the top is
ornamented with four clusters of Prince of Wales plumes on each side. It
is altogether quite a showy vehicle and is used for the poor classes as
well as the rich
Louisville has a large number of coulered people about 3000 of which
are slaves. they are probably cared better for than any city in the Union.
Monday 16 -- Last evening was very pleasantly spent in the Cabin. We
have a large number of passengers mostly Southerners a fair proportion of
Ladies all of which could sing and play on the piano. We had a sociable
time. Those of us that were married showed the degareotypes of our wives
and children I took the premium. they said they look like Northerners,
supposing I was a Southerner. They said they were "right fine" looking and
a "heap prettier" than I was. I knew they only wanted to flatter me and
took it for what it was worth
An affray took place in the forward cabin on Saturday Night that came
near resulting in the loss of life. The parties were from Mississipi were
engage in card playing until a late hour and drinking freely used their
revolvers and bowie knives. they think no more of shooting at each other
than the people North do of taking a round with the fist
I got acquainted with a number of gentlemen from the South some
merchants others professional men. They were extremely warm hearted. They
consider the use of the revolver as honorable a way of settling a dispute
or punishing an insult as any plan that can be adopted. The strong Man has
not there the advantage. It is their education and they succeed in making
out a quite a case in their favor
On going to bed last evening we were in hopes to be on our way again
before morning as the barge was still expected Morning came however and
we were still at the levee in Louisville. My patience was exhausted this
was the day we was to have been in Memphis, and now the Captain told us it
would take three to four days after the barge came to get to Memphis. I
went up town after breakfast and found I could take the cars to St. Louis
one dollar less than at Cincinnati. I returned to the boat and the Captain
refunded all of my passage money except $2.50 So that it cost me only
$1.50 extra to go by Louisville. Many of the passengers left the boat as I
did while others remained. I should have remained if I could have spared
the time as I never was on a steamer where they lived as well as they did
on the Memphis. The boat is noted for the table it sets.
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At Noon there was no news from the barge. The R. R. omnibuss called at
the boat for me took me to the ferry thence to the depot of the New Albany
and Salem R. R. and at 1.50 P. M. We left, reached Greencastle behind time
but the cars waited five minutes enabling us to get aboard. Changed cars
again at Terre Haute and Vincenes.
Tuesday 17. -- From Vincenes reached Sandoval about Eight o'clock A. M.
Found no Cars to Centralia until one in the afternoon I accordingly
checked My baggage to Centralia and started on foot the distance Six
Miles. I found it a very pleasant walk indeed Most of the way was prairie.
One grove however of about one mile was a pleasant variety. It was filled
with birds which made me halt a number of times to listen to the variety
of noises they made. Among the number was a Mocking bird and the Cardinal
Grosebeak or Red Bird neither of them get as far North as New York. I have
seen No robins yet.
I came in Sight of Centralia when about two Miles distant from the
town. My imagination located Harriets residence and all of the
particulars. I had it in the south east part of the village on the open
prarie without a yard fence or any thing of the Kind. When near enough to
distinguish the buildings I selected one, a Story and a half white house
with two conspicuous side windows visible one and a half miles off. That
is the place I remarked aloud and laughed heartily all to myself. I ploded
on into the heart of the town, at the depot I inquired where Hugh Baily
lived was informed that it was in the 'Coponys Row' a little east. Next
enquired at a Stoor and was pointed out the very house I had selected on
first coming in sight of the town. I shall have to believe in Spiritualism
I think after this. Entered Harriets house as familiar as though I
belonged there, and without nocking. I believe she jumped some and seemed
pleased to see Me They are living as comfortable as can be considering the
house is not finished. Bally soon came into dinner and was heartily glad
to see me. I left with him at two o'clock and rode on his engine down to
Cairo got there at 8 P. M. tried to get passage to Memphis but found the
fare $10. I backed out sudden. Supposed it but $8. Got into the mud up to
my knees went with Mr. Baily to bed.
Wednesday 18 -- Left Cairo on my return with Mr. Baily at 6 A. M.
reached Centralia at Noon. Set by the fire visited and played with the
baby during the balance of the day.
Thursday 19 -- A warm and pleasant day Baily drawed fence lumber and
had his garden ploughed. I walked about the Town Wrote and slept some and
got well rested. Centralia is more of a town than I expected to find has
some 1500 population. Harriet has a fine baby as any one has. its hair is
red and I believe always will be It has a bad cold and I fear threatened
with the croop. Mr. Baily and Hat. would not hear to my leaving under a
week at least, and seemed dissatisfied when I decided to leave the next
day I fared sumptuously. Had a pressing invitation to have my family come
out and stop a month or even three of them before going West.
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Friday 20 --Left Centralia half past twelve at night. Hat. set up and
had a breakfast ready for me and Mr. Baily as he had to go out to Cairo
again at two o'clock. Left the baby very poorly.
Harriet Keeps a girl a big dog and hens. I think if any one takes
comfort it is them they are as loving as two kittens
We reached St. Louis between five and six in the Morning. At The Barnum
House I found a letter from Frank and Robert Adams but very much to my
surprise not a line from wife or children. After breakfast went down to
the boats No boats were going further up than St. Joseph. Ice reported 30
inches thick at Omaha and teams crossing. This presented a dubious aspect.
I had hurried to get away and hurried all the way and here I am two weeks
too early This gave me the blues a little and I Knew not what course to
pursue. In this dillema I went in search of my Cousin. found two brothers
of Cousin Benjamin. They were Alfred and James H. The former has a wife
and nine children. James has a wife but has lost all his children he is
two years younger than I am. Took dinner and went up to supper and spent a
short time in the evening.
Returning to My Hotel I had decided to go back to Harriets and stop a
week or ten days until the ice was out of the river and I could get a
passage to Omaha. With this determination I went to bed.
Saturday 21 -- Arose early, examined the register of arrivals and found
the name of G. W. Brown of Laurence he had come in the afternoon previous
from Chicago but was not yet up. I took breakfast and then went to his
room. And our meeting was decidedly a joyous to both. He insisted on my
going to Laurence With him and make his house my home until I could take
passage up the river. His wife would be in from Alton in time to go out
with us. I accordingly abandoned going back to Harriets, and set about
making preparations to accompany Mr Brown into Kansas. At 2 P. M. we left
in the Cars for Jefferson City where we were to meet the R. R. Company's
daily line of steamers for Weston and intermediate points. Our tickits
taking us through.
Our party from St Louis consisted of Mr Brown and his wife, A Mrs.
Leavett and her two daughters ten and six years of age. We had a very
pleasant time on the cars Mr. Brown Fathered one of Mrs. L.'s children and
I took Mrs Brown under My care. Mrs. Leavett and family were among the
number that were driven out of Leavenworth last summer, and lost all they
had. They are now located at Wyandot, where Mr. Leavett now is. Mrs. L. is
going out to join him. Mrs. Leavett is one of the fire brands of the
freestates party her tongue is constantly busy. She has been east Making
speeches and getting Subscribers for Mr Browns paper. She has become
desperate and if necessity requires it she will take up the muskett and
revolver before she will be again driven away from her home. She is ready
for an argument with any one even on spiritualism. Mrs Brown is a more
quiet woman and looks like a person that has been tried as she has been.
We were informed at St Louis that the two boats were usually crowded,
so that when the whistle blew at Jefferson City every person had their
carpet
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sack in hand to make a spring for the boat when the cars should stop. And
when they did stop down they went in a mass like a flock of sheep tumbling
over each other in the dark, (it was eight o'clock at night) But lo and
behold not a berth stool or plank was unoccupied. The daily boats due were
aground up the river, and the one in, the New Lucy had been damaged and
could not leave until the next day in the afternoon when her damages would
probably be repaired. No boat had been in for three days that belonged to
the line and two trains of cars per day loaded as thick as they could
stand, had poured into the city, and as soon as the New Lucy reached her
landing she was swarmed and every room taken. Our chances were to hang up
on a hook. Finding the Capt. he proved to be no less a person than the
Pilot of the Wm. Campbell the boat I came down on last fall. He recognized
me at once and fixed out two rooms which were given up to the Ladies and
Mr Brown. Next in Order Mr. Brown and Myself went up town to get supper.
Not having dinner we felt the want of supper. We set down to a table that
was about all got a cup of cold coffee a small biscuit one cracker and
that was all Charges only 50 cents each Returning to the boat Mr Brown
Made a miss step and tumbled into a gulph about five feet deep with a Mud
bottom, tore his clothes some and hurt him a little, but not sufficient to
prevent us from laughing heartily. We scraped mud for some time then he
ventured on the boat. I walked in front to screen him from to conspicuous
a view. When reaching the ladies cabin we quickend our pace again Mr Brown
met with a casualty run his head against one of the branches of the
chandelier nocked off the globe smashing it in a thousand pieces. Every
eye was turned in the direction. There he stood watching the fragments and
covered with mud. A more ludicrus scene I have seldom beheld and if he had
killed himself I could not help but laugh. He got into his room and there
remained for the night.
About this time the porters comenced turning down the chairs along
along the state room doors completely blocking up the entrance or exits
through the door. This being done they brough in a lot of Mattresses
arranging them along one end on the chair backs to serve as a pillow. I
took the hint and made fast to one then came a general strife to see who
should have a bed About one half were accommodated. Some had a mattress
some a pillow others a blanket. Covering about two thirds of cabin floor,
one would laugh another sing and a third curse, those that could get no
chance to sleep done all they could to prevent others from sleeping and
kickt up a general uproar until they got exhausted and we at last got to
sleep. I was soare from laughing at the vanity of disposition, one was for
fun another kept up a constant growl. those however who said least fared
best. I have often heard people tell of a crowd, but this beat all.
Sunday 22 -- This morning another amusing scene was enacted which will
probably be repeted three times per day during the trip. There are three
hundred passengers on board and only table room for some Seventy five. Who
was to be first at table was the all engrossing Subject as soon as
preparations were commenced for breakfast. It was with difficulty that the
waiters could get around to put the dishes on the tables. I saw at once
that those without
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ladies must of necessity fare slim I accordingly secured Mrs. Leavett for
meal times which was for me very fortunate. the table had to be cleared
and set again four times before all the passengers were served. The fare
is of the poorest kind I ever saw on a steamboat even at the first tables.
Females were in great demand at meal times even little girls that went
free were engaged for the trip in order to secure a seat at the first
table. We have two large and very amusing men by the name of Martin from
Flint Mich who are brothers they take girls of 11 and 9 years to the table
as their ladies. We are all becoming acquainted and are anticipating a
pleasant time. On showing my degareotypes Mr Martin recollected seeing
Mate somewhere. It was at Flint this is how I became acquainted with him,
he knows Lib. and Cook. He says Mrs. Cook is one of the finest women in
Flint and has the most Friends of any one in the city and that I ought to
be proud of her sister for a wife
Mr. Brown and myself have had a stroll about the city the town does
not amount to much except as the Capital of Mo. Our boat was repaired
about noon but we were obliged to wait until the three o'clock cars came
in as one of the pilots had gone down to St. Louis. Our steam was up ready
to start as soon as the pilot should come on board so as to prevent the
rush of passengers from the train. They came however like an avalanche
covering our forecastle as thick as they could stand. They were ordered
off on another boat of the same line going out the next day among the
crowd of new comers I saw and spoke with three Buffalo men, Lawyer Grey
Mr. Metz and a young man whom I cannot call by name was once a clerk at
Calendars.
During the day I have made the acquaintance of a Mr Smith who together
with his wife is going to Omaha to establish themselves in business. He is
a small man about the size of Mr. Cook and of the same business. His wife
is a very tall woman, reminds me of Mrs. Newman She is a graduate of some
of our eastern seminaries and has herself been for a term of years a
principal. She hopes to be enabled to establish an institution of learning
at Omaha I think she would be just the woman for such an enterprise. I
shall use my influence. I should be ready then to take my family to Omaha.
On the arrival of the cars which brought up our pilot, this Mr. Smith
went up to look after some baggage which came on the train. He succeeded
in getting the baggage nearly to the boat when it put out, and would not
return. You may imagine the feelings of his wife who was obliged to remain
on this boat while her husband must stop over a day and come on the next
boat. There are a number on this boat going to Omaha some of which will
stop with her at Weston until her husband arrives.
Some seven miles above Jefferson City is the worst sand-bar on the
route and as we expected or feared we got fast on it in company with other
boats some had been there 48 hours, this was not a very pleasant prospect
for us. We made the best of it however and concluded too sleep on it. This
night I succeeded in getting a state room in company with Mr. Carver of
Buffalo. (He is the man with whom Desdimona boarded.) He had a room for
himself and his two sons, his two sons slept together giving me a birth to
myself which I
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appreciate. I could not retire until I had seen the sport in the Main
cabin of staking or marking out claims and securing a place to straiten
out in for the night. This evening we had a fine thunder shower.
Monday 23 -- Early this morning one of the Steamers on the barr, the
"Star of the West" got off and passed up. Soon after this the "Col.
Crossman" which left St. Louis the day before we did, and which we passed
on the cars, came up and crossed the barr without difficulty cheering
loudly as they passed us. The "Crossman" stoped a Mile up to wood. In the
mean time we came up along side of them to wood also. In swinging around
we came in collission with the Crossman and smashed in our wheelhouse on
the same side the previous injury was sustained. Again we were disable,
and when the Crossman left we lashed to the shoar for repairs where we
remained in an uneasy state of axiety until after eight o'clock at night.
The early part of the day was rainy. The afternoon was dry and
pleasant. The scenery on the shore grand. Mr. Brown and myself invited
some ladies to attempt to gain the top of a rock which we had been
admiring all the day It is by far the loftiest rock I have yet seen it
towred far above the loftiest trees. On the side next the river it was
perpendicular over 200 feet high and scalloped out like a chimney and for
want of a better name we called it "Chimney rock." We ascended by climbing
up the bank which in the rear of the rock extended to within 50 feet of
the top We then got up one at a time to a secure foothold and pulled the
others after us, reaching the top we gave three cheers for free Kansas.
Fifty persons could stand upon the top of the rock, our company consisted
of some eight or ten. I did not venture to look off at the brink as others
did, at first I was too timid to stand erect. We gathered some moss as
relics and carved our names in the rock and on the limbs of trees along
the side of the path by which we ascended. We all agreed that our visit to
the top of "Chimney rock" had well paid us for the delay we were subjected
to by the accident to our boat.
When I took the cars at Sandoval on Friday morning at one o'clock,
every seat was occupied. Noticing a gentleman whose countenance pleased
me, I asked and received a share of his seat. We conversed most of the way
to St Louis. his manner of speaking was exceedingly pleasant and he bore a
striking resemblance to Uncle Chauncy except he was not corpulent his
height is Six feet six inches, and he is one of the noblest looking men I
ever saw. He was an old resident of Missouri. I was exceedingly loth to
part with him as I did at the ferry opposite St. Louis, and equally
pleased to meet him again at "The Barnum House" In the afternoon of the
same day I again met him on the levvy as he was about to take the cars for
Jefferson City en route home. We parted here as old friends neither
knowing the others name. On Sunday Morning at Jefferson City we again met.
He had been waiting for the boat to be repaired. Was stoping in the city
with his daughter, was going up on the same boat, had with him a niece and
a little slave he was taking up to a friend and neighbor of his.
I think I have never met with a man that pleased me as well. I also
think I have learned much that will be of service to me in the way of
business in the
Page 14
West. My friend's name is Samuel C. Major is one of the wealthy and most
prominent men of Missouri.
This evening Mr Major and Myself were called upon by the ladies, who
had held a meeting and voted to invite the Captain and Clerk to visit them
in the ladies Cabin, with a deposition from said ladies to transmit the
vote to the Captain, which we did, feeling flattered by the compliment,
and reported favorable. This involved the necessity of an introduction
which could only be done in general terms as we were not acquainted with
but few of the ladies on board, by Name. The evening passed pleasantly,
with another thunder shower to close the day. At nine o'clock a dive was
made for the mattress, claims taken, and in the general melee, in which
some got kick and and scratches we went to bed. Our friend was obliged to
stretch his six feet six on the Cabin floor. Something he was not used to.
Tuesday 24 -- But little progress made during the night My friend
Major pointed out the burial place of Daniel Boon and told me that his
niece on the boat was a Great Grand Daughter of Daniel Boon, as yet I had
not spoken with her I asked an introduction, which was given with an
apology that it had not been done before. I concidered it a great treat to
be in conversation with a direct decendent of the "old Hunter of
Kentucky." Miss Boon is a woman of intelligence and education of a high
order, born and brought up in Missouri. She seems to inherit a large share
of that love for the wildness of nature that charactiresed her Grandsire
She had learned from her Uncle that I was from the state of New York. She
asked me many questions about the scenery of N. Y. particularly that of
Niagara, St Lawrence, Lake George the Hudson and the scenery described by
Cooper. She had only visited the part of Kentucky where her Great
Grandfather lived, and a small portion of Tenessee. She would talk of wild
scenery different from any one I ever conversed with. And I regret I did
not make her acquantonce earlier. She and her Uncle left the boat this
Morning at Eleven. On leaving the boat they bade me a friendly good bye
wishing me a pleasant journy and asking to be remembered to my wife and
children whose likeness they saw.
The water in the river has been rising slowly to day and our progress
is rapid for Missouri traveling. Wild geese are in great Abundance the
shores and sand-bars are covered by the thousands. The air is becoming
more chilly.
Wednesday 25 -- The watter continues to rise in the river We passed
the Col. Crossman about one o'clock this morning and are fast making up
for our delay in repairing the boat about 8 o'clock we came upon a deer
that was on a sand-bar. he made quick steps in the direction of the
nearest timber land taking to the water part of the way
After dinner we passed the "Star of the West" that passed us while on
the bar Monday Morning She left St Louis three days in advance of us. We
are the fastest craft on the river and pass everything afloat. About this
time the Porter came around ordering those stoping at Kansas City to
Select their baggage. This was the first intimation we had of our coming
to the vicinity of our seperation. We had been jamed into our cabin like
stage coach pas-
Page 15
sengers and most of us had become acquainted and I presume our seperation
was much as it is on ship board after a long and perrilous voyage. Our
passengers were from all parts of the Union but mostly from Western New
York, among our passengers was an officer of the Steam Ship Baltic who had
been on her every trip since she was built. He is so taken up with our
Western country he has almost determined to locate here. He had no idea
such people went to Kansas. Mr. Brown hired two printers and one young
lady to go and work for him at Lawrence He made Me liberal offers. I told
him I must first try Omaha. He would pay me my price if I would go with
him he is coining money has 7000 subscribers The greater part of our
passengers were bound for Kansas and mostly for Lawrence and vicinity All
of the Kansas Emigrants they charged extra on their baggage weighing every
piece the Nebraska passengers were allowed to go on with all they had a
mind to. I must say I think the best persons on the boat were among the
Nebraska passengers We reached Kansas City Mo. about Eleven at night when
we parted with some 40 or 50 of our passengers a few miles further on is
Wyandot where Mrs Leavett family and others got off. By this time the
favored ones got rooms for the balance of the night.
A blackleg traveling on the boat was a nuesence he swindled some two
hundred dollars out of different persons that played with him. One young
man lost thirty dollars all he had and then offered to pawn his watch
This was told to me I did not see it feeling more at home in the ladies
cabin I spent most of the time there. During the evening this blackleg
insulted a man who was about getting off. He called him to an account and
challenged him to shoot with him on the hurrycain deck arrangements were
being made and I had made up my mind to see the thing done. I could have
seen the blackleg shot down with as good grace as I would shoot a chicken
if I was hungry. It would have been doing a blessed cervice for the
county. The friends of the rascal settled the difficulty.
I have become acquainted with J. Johnson of the Johnson House N. Y.
City he is going to Omaha with a view of erecting a fine hotel if every
thing suits him he is a fine man none of your swelling bragadasius but a
true gentleman He will be a worthy and useful acqui- to Omaha should he
take up his residence there.
Thursday 26 The watter still rising is three feet higher than when we
left Jefferson City Sunday Night Wild Turkeys were seen running along the
banks on the Missouri side this morning
A short time after breakfast We reached Leavenworth City the levee was
completely Swarmid with people before we landed so much so that the two
hundred passengers we landed did not seem to enlarge the crowd in the
least Here I met my friend Kellum from Auban who went west when I was
last at Auburn his company were waiting for a through boat to continue on
as far as Omaha I learned there were no accommodations at Leavenworth or
Lawrence so I decided to work my way along and get to Omaha the best way
possible
The clerk of our boat says that since the river has opened there has 12,
000 people passed up in boats for Kansas and Nebraska and as many more by
land.
Page 16
every ferry we came to was crowded from Morning to Night. Such a tide of
emigration was never before known. They are pouring in one continual
stream to every town and ferry on the east bank of the river and stand in
large groops of men, women, children, waggons, horses and oxen awaiting
their turn to cross into the promise land. They tell us they are only
pioneers and have but to write home favorable to bring parties of from ten
to twenty for every individual now entering the Territories. They are
covering the territories like a swarm of locusts. The border-ruffian
population of Missouri shak their heads and heep curses upon the Yankies
"Their curses like little chickens will come to roost" Missourie must and
will ere long become a free state
Our stop at Leavenworth was but a few Moments. We reached Weston the
terminus of the "Lightning Lind" at ten o'clock Stoped at the "St George
Hotel" The stage to St. Josephs had gone, three extras were hired, and
filled while some twenty-five, myself among the number agreed to wait for
a boat. The day spent in writing and prospecting about the town. It is a
mistery to me why a town was ever built on the site of Weston There is
not a dozen houses in the place on a level with each other So uneven is
the ground that houses on the same street 300 feet apart of equal size
will vary fifty feet in height. During rain storms the ground washes very
bad so that the ravines can not be bridged and deep gulphs are cut out by
the rain to the level of the river. No watter runs in these gullies except
during the rainstorm, still they are impossible. The city reminds me of
pictures I have seen of towns in Switzerland.
Among the guests at the St. George was a gentleman and his wife from
York state their respective ages were about 35 and 45 years. They belong
to the better classes they left their friends in the east with buoyant
hopes and a light hearts for a "Home in the West" Their only child was a
spritely little girl twenty two months old, a perfect little fairy, in
this little being was centered the affection and soul of its parents. She
was their idol. No one but a parent can tell how she was loved! On the
boat she took sick, had a cold on her lungs, got no relief. Took her from
the boat to the hotel where the little innocence lingered a few days and
died. The day previous to her death she put her arms around her mothers
neck clasping with her whole strength her "dear Mama" Then smoothing her
cheek with her little feverish hand Kissed her mother a number of times
and bade her goodbye! two days after this they burried her among strangers
in a strange land. Oh! was not that heartrending? I took the case home, I
could but mingle my sympathising tears with theirs. Had it been one or
both of my children what would have been my feelings May I ever be spared
such afflictions, but if Come they must I pray for strength and fortitude
for such a trial.
Previous to the burial the corps was dressed and placed in a natural
position as though alive in the fathers arms, and an ambrotype taken. It
is the finest thing I ever saw one not knowing the facts would think the
child was pretending to be asleep and could with difficulty keep from
laughing.
Page 17
Friday 27 -- Got up this Morning as soon as it was light. Went up on
the highest bluff. could see a steamer coming up nine miles down the
river. The boat proved to be the "Star of the West" which we had passed
two days previous by the time we had breakfast she had reached the
landing We took passage for St Joseph the boat going no farther up than
that point. The family who burried their child is on board the Mother
seems allmost heart broken She says her greatest trial came when she left
the hotel without her child on board the "Star of the West" we have much
better fare than on the Railroad line and I would advise all persons
coming west to avoid said line. it is a humbug. The indipendent boats set
a first rate table have enough and are accommodating and gentlemanly.
Among the places we touched at was Atchison the strong hold of proslavery
in Kansas. This is the residence of Stringfellow and is one of the places
we stoped at last fall during the Kansas excitement. I bought a copy of
the "Squatter Sovereign" Edited and published by Stringfellow. The number
I bought contained the validictory of Stringfellow in which he stated he
had published at his own expense, the "Squatter Sovereign" for two years
"for the purpose of arousing the South to the importance of Kansas as a
Territory piculiarly adapted to Slave labor." . . . "did not embark in the
embark in the enterprise with a view of profit, but solely to prevent
Kansas from being Abolitionised" He resigns his labors to other hands who
will make the paper purely Democratic sustaining the law and order party
and advocating the doctrines of the National democracy. The same paper
contains an invitation to setlers from all parts of the Union North as
well as South to come and make homes among them. The entire tone of the
paper is changed. The only hope the proslavery party now have is to force
through a convention without submitting it to the people this they do not
believe they can do.
The River is almost out of its banks and the current very rappid which
makes our progress very slow. The scenery increases in beauty as we ascend
nearer to the Nebraska line. Many persons who are on their first trip up
the "Big Muddy" are in extacis about the Country
We reached St. Joseph about nine o'clock in the Evening found the
Hotels filled and accommodations poor. The persons that came up on the
Extras the day previous were in time to take the Steamer Admiral bound for
Omaha, which left this Morning at ten o'clock. We felt disappointed and
very much regreted we had not followed their example in taking an extra.
Our only chance now is to take the stage. We hurried to the office, three
of us but only two could get seats these were taken by a man from the
Bluff and Myself. our Cleveland friend decided to run his chances. Paid
our fare and to bed dreading our Stage ride the Next day. Time by stage we
were told was 36 hours
Saturday 28 -- During last night the Steamer Col. Crossman arrived
bringing another supply of passengers for the Upper Missouri there was at
least 100 passengers for the Bluffs and Omaha and only a Nine passenger
Page 18
Coach to take them, running every other day The Stage would take no
baggage except a satchel a valise to each passenger. We were obliged to
leave our trunks in the storehouse to be sent up on the first boat
A little after eight we started at a snail pace up one bluff and down
another tiping and pitching in all directions. One of our passengers was a
Mr Jackson of the firm of Footte & Jackson of the Bluffs and Omaha he did
not reach St. Josephs until this morning when all Seats were taken he
bought off one of the passengers giving him ten dollars bonus for his
seat. The fare was ten dollars, so that Mr Jackson paid twenty dollars
We found the roads much better than we had anticipated, being dry
except in the hollows between blufs. The day was as pleasant as could be.
Nothing of special interest transpired until about two o'clock P. M. when
the stage got set in a mud hole and the horses down. We all had business
now unfastening the horses while the driver held them on his coach, and
one Man at each horses head until they were seperately detatched and got
out of the mud. Next we took down the fence got a chain and attached it to
the tongue of the coach hitched the horses to the chain. the horses in
the lot where they had good foothold. With rails pryed up the coach so
that horses drew it out safe on dry land. After an hours delay we were
again on the move At four o'clock We Stoped to change horses at a place
called Oregon where we ordered dinner. At this place I saw for the first
time handbills posted up advertising a sale of negroes they were the
property of heirs and must be sold to settle up an estate. There are but
few slaves in this part of Missouri, and a better country I never saw. It
Can not be beat in the world. They raise fruit in great abundance, we have
all the apples we want two for a penny.
Ham, Eggs and Corn Cake constituted our bill of fare. this being
disposed of we started on, footing down and up hills which were very
steep, in one of these pedestrian excursions we came to a large Cornfield
where the old stalks were standing. It was about Sundown, the cornfield
was alive with Wild Geese and ducks that were coming in to feed on young
wheat which was just starting up and to roost The ground was covered with
them and the air filled with others hovering over. The noise made by their
wings and their constant squaking was almost deafning and shook the ground
like distant thunder. Their number could not be estimated. With suitable
firearms or snares we could have filled the coach. They did not seam at
all timid. What a place for sporting
Soon after dark our driver stoped to water his horses. When he started
again, by some carelessness he brought the leaders around so sudden as to
break the tongue of the coach. Here was a "pretty Kittle of fish." We were
fortunate in being opposite a farm house, where a lumber waggon was
procured with a view of continuing our journey. this proved to be to small
and we were obliged to allow the driver to return with the two forward
wheels to Oregon and have a new tongue made. This the driver assured us
would be done so he could return by two o'clock next Morning. We
accordingly took possession of the farm house which 'was built in regular
Missouri style, of
Page 19
hewed loggs and double. Two houses about fifteen feet square and twelve to
fifteen feet apart, with a roof extending from one to the other. one part
was used for Cooking and Eating the chamber for the boys (Negroes) to
sleep in. The other apartment was the family room containing two beds, the
room had a large fireplace and was the only sitting room. I could not
stand up in this room with my hat on. The chamber was still lower Into
this living room we all huddle Eleven in number Our host a clever
bulletheaded Kentuckyan said he would make us as comfortable as he could
under the circumstances. Prelirninaries being arranged we all went up
stairs where four beds were arranged along the side of the house on the
floor lengthwise this gave us room enough for the six footers to lay their
bodies on the bed while their feet extended out on the floor. When all
were ensconsed we were Covered with all sorts of bedding. We packed in
soldier or prison style, forming a hollow square and in twenty minutes
most of the number were sound asleep snoaring in so many different keys as
to resemble the squakin of the Wild geese.
Sunday 29 -- Slept Soundly all last night got an early breakfast of
Bacon, Eggs and Corn Cake served up by a couple of ebony gentlemen. Our
driver did not return until 9 o'clock when we again started being delayed
twelve hours.
At twelve Noon stoped at Jackson's Point, named after our passenger
Jackson who once lived there. Here we got a first rate dinner of roast
turky Our next station was 27 miles distance and great fears were
entertained of how we should cross the big Tarkeo River some sixteen miles
distant The Snow in northern Iowa was melting and the river was out of
its banks covering the entire bottoms. Reaching the regular crossing our
driver swam it with one of the horses and learned by the agent who was on
the opposite side and came over with the driver that we must go back two
miles take another route and cross lower down. We accordingly did so
crossing the Main stream on a bridge then came four Miles of river bottoms
where the water was from three feet to six inches in depth all the way.
Some of the time the horses could with difficulty draw the coach. It was
long after dark when we reached the bridge where we should have crossed
but for the watter, our route to cross the river had taken us fifteen
miles out of our way. I shall always remember Crossing the Big Tarkeo
It was now four miles to our station being 36 our team had to go, one
of the horses will probably never go it again as we believe he is used up.
These last four miles was hilly and we walked much of the way, which was
delightfull The prairie was on fire in all dirictions, and presented a
most Magnificent sight. The grass was dry and tall and a gentle wind
blowing which kept the fire steadily marching on like an army of Soldiers.
Sometimes a gust of wind would strike a section of the line of fire
increasing the flame and hasting it along ahead of the main line then
Continue along the line in wavey motions like the undulations of the sea.
In many places our road crossed the fire when we could see to read in the
coach. We Could see fires in all directions and as far as the eye could
extend. I took a Match and set a fresh fire where the grass was long and
dry, before we were out of sight it covered acres. It is a splendid sight
Page 20
in a cloudy night to stand on a high bluff and see the prarie on fire in
all directions redening the clouds and rendering every limb, tree, and
moving thing planely visable. I ran on ahead of the coach near half a mile
to a high bluff where I counted twenty different fires. the one nearest to
me was where the coach and horses were moving at a very slow pace up the
bluff the passengers were on foot and moved along behind and ahead of the
coach in a direct line of fire. The glare from the burning prarie gave
them an unearthly look which was wild and romantic in the extreme. I
enjoyed it as but few can.
Monday 30 -- Daylight found us at a station awaiting breakfast. passed
as pleasant a night as I ever did in a Coach diversified with walks up and
down the steepest hills. The wind changed this morning and seemed to
threaten snow. I could easily discover we were getting farther North as
the wind came down cold and raw from the North, where, within three
hundred miles the snow lies three feet deep. About 8 o'clock we crossed
the Nashnabotina(*) river in a Scow. The river had risen one foot during
the night and was just ready to go out of its banks which will be worse
than the Tarkeo and stop traviel. Here Commenced a slow driszeling cold
rain which continued all day. The rain had the effect to hasten on our
drivers so that our prospects were favorable of reaching Council Bluffs as
early as eight o'clock.
At Sidney forty-five miles from Council Bluff we were relieved of six
of our passengers, leaving but five in the Coach making the balance of our
ride more comfortable. The first station we stoped at after leaving Sidney
was at a farm house on the open prarie. Mr. Jackson, a Cincinnati man and
Myself went in to warm. The lady of the house, a woman about fifty years
of age, questioned us closely about affairs in Kansas She knew something
was going to be done as some of them abolitionests had been to the
neighborhood and taken away the guns they left there last fall. I told her
there would be no more trouble, all was quiet She could not believe it
eyed me very suspiciously, then asked how that hole came in my hat. My
traveling companions took the hint at once and told the lady I was one of
the Kansas prisoners who had escaped. I found it was useless for me to try
to make a fair statement of affairs, and was obliged to own up and tell
all about how we had been treated. I made every thing fare implicating no
one. When we left our hostess seemed to be satisfied as she had seen the
elephant
The hole in the hat was on the brim. While on the upper deck of the
steamer a spark droped on my hat and had burned a hole as round and about
the size of a rifle ball this was what attracted the attention of the
inquisitive lady
At St Mary's our last change of horses and twelve miles from Council
Bluffs we learned the Steamer Admiral which had left St. Josephs the day
before we did, had not yet passed up. We were 24 hours behind time still
ahead of the boat. At six o'clock we left St Marys expecting to be at the
Bluffs as early as half past eight. The road ran along the bottoms and was
in a bad state owing to the continued rain of the last twelve hours. Night
had set in by the time we had made six miles. At this point was a sluce
some twenty feet
(* Nisbnabotna.)
Page 21
wide and about as deep. the watter was out of the banks and overflowed a
large space of the bottoms both sides of the bridge. In the midst of the
water before reaching the bridge the horses got set and could not move the
coach. We were all obliged to get out and into the water three feet deep
and wade to dry land. The water was cold as ice. our boots were full and
more was pattering down on our heads while a cold north wind sent its
chilling blasts almost through us. We stood a few minutes in this
condition while the driver tryed to make his horses draw out the empty
coach, but without success. What was to be done! No house was near, and
to stand still was not deemed safe, in our wet and chilling condition. The
driver wished us to wade in and unfasten his horses, while he remained on
the Coach, thus enabling him to get on one of the horses and get away
without his getting in the watter We declined however as we think he might
have went around another road and thus prevented this Catastrophe. Each
Man waded back to the coach and got his carpet sack and flounced along
throug the water to the bridge. here we rested a few minutes and plunged
in on the other side, and for near one hundred rods we waded knee deep and
some of the way up to the seat of our pants. It was a trying time but the
only alternative. The excitement kept the watter from chilling us through.
Reaching the dry ground a ground as dry as could be during a rain we
paddled on the best we could with our heavy Carpet Sacks boots filled with
water, clothes wet and stif, and at every step our feet sticking like tar
to the muddy prarie soil. We looked in vain for a farm house by the way.
After a short walk we discovered a light across the prarie, glimmering
faintly through the darkness of the night and the falling rain. One of our
party said he thought it was at Council Bluffs, and if so it must be four
miles. This information was rather discouraging. We consoled ourselves
however with the belief that the light could not be over one and a half
miles at the extent We draged ourselves along for one whole hour until it
seemed we could go no farther. Still that deceptive light receeded from us
as fast as we traveled, and we could not discover that it was any nearer
than when we started I could easily imagine how one benight on the prarie
in a snow storm would become disheartened and lay down and take his last
sleep while the winter wind covered him with pure white sheet of snow.
Another half hour and instead of one light we could discover some dozen or
more. this animated us afresh at the same time we had another hundred
yards to wade in mud and water above our knees. Our last half mile we paid
no attention to the best part of the road so we made headway. At ten
o'clock we reach the Paciffic House Council Bluffs. My head was dizzy and
I could barely see while my arms seemed pulled down to the ground by my
heavy satchel. We had walked six miles.
Two of our number on reaching Council Bluffs were by their own
firesides surrounded by their own families. What a blessing there homes
must have been that night. Three of us stoped at the hotel, ordered a room
with a fire and two buckets of water. By assisting each other we succeeded
in getting off our boots, which was a difficult job with what streangth we
had left. As soon as I could arrange my clothes around the stove and wash
the mud from my feet and legs, I tumbled into bed, not "careing whether
School Kept or not"[.]
To Nebraska in '57 - End of Pages 3-21
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