Letters and Journals of Narcissa Whitman - Part 2



[August] 28th.
This morning lingered with husband on the top of the hill that overlooks 
the Grande Ronde, for berries until we were some distance behind camp. We 
have now no distressing apprehensions the moment we are out of sight of 
the camp, for we have entirely passed the dangerous country. I always 
enjoy riding alone with him, especially when we talk about home friends. 
It is then the tedious hours are sweetly decoyed away.

We descend a very steep hill in coming into Grande Ronde, at the foot of 
which is a beautiful cluster of pitch and spruce pine trees, but no white 
pine like that I have been accustomed to see at home. Grande Ronde is 
indeed a beautiful place. It is a circular plain, surrounded by lofty 
mountains, and has a beautiful stream coursing through it, skirted with 
quite large timber. The scenery while passing through it is quite 
delightful in some places and the soil rich; in other places we find the 
white sand and sedge, as usual, so common to this country. We nooned upon 
Grande Ronde river.

The camas grows here in abundance, and it is the principal resort of the 
Cayuses and many other tribes, to obtain it, as they are very fond of it. 
It resembles an onion in shape and color, when cooked is very sweet and 
tastes like a fig. Their manner of cooking them is very curious: They dig 
a hole in the ground, throw in a heap of stones, heat them to a red heat, 
cover them with green grass, upon which they put the camas, and cover the 
whole with earth. When taken out it is black. This is the chief food of 
many tribes during winter. 

After dinner we left the plain and ascended the Blue Mountains. Here a new 
and pleasing scene presented itself-mountains covered with timber, through 
which we rode all the afternoon; a very agreeable change. The scenery 
reminded me of the hills in my native country of Streuben.

29th. - Had a combination of the same scenery as yesterday afternoon. Rode 
over many logs and obstructions that we had not found since we left the 
states. Here I frequently met old acquaintances in the trees and flowers, 
and was not a little delighted; indeed, I do not know as I was ever so 
much affected with any scenery in my life. The singing of birds, the echo 
of voices of my fellow travelers, as they were scattered through the 
woods, all had a strong resemblance to bygone days. But this scenery was 
of short duration-only one day. 

Before noon we began to descend one of the most terrible mountains for 
steepness and length I have yet seen. It was like winding stairs in its 
descent, and in some places almost perpendicular. The horses appeared to 
dread the hill as much as we did. They would turn and wind around in a 
zigzag manner all the way down. The men usually walked, but I could not 
get permission to, neither did I desire it much.

We had no sooner gained the foot of this mountain than another more steep 
and dreadful was before us. After dinner and rest we descended it. Mount 
Pleasant, in Prattsburg, would not compare with these Mount Terribles. Our 
ride this afternoon exceeded anything we have had yet, and what rendered 
it the more aggravating was the fact that the path all the way was very 
stony, resembling a newly macadamized road. Our horses' feet were very 
tender, all unshod, so that we could not make the progress we wished. The 
mountain in many places was covered with this black broken basalt. We were 
very late in making camp to-night. After ascending the mountain we kept 
upon the main divide until sunset, looking in vain for water and a camping 
place. While upon this elevation we had a view of the Valley of the 
Columbia River. It was beautiful. Just as we gained the highest elevation 
and began to descend the sun was dipping his disk behind the western 
horizon. Beyond the valley we could see two distinct mountains - Mount 
Hood and Mount St. Helens. These lofty peaks were of a conical form, 
separated from each other by a considerable distance. Behind the former 
the sun was hiding part of his rays, which gave us a more distinct view of 
this gigantic cone. The beauty of this extensive valley contrasted well 
with the rolling mountains behind us, and at this hour of twilight was 
enchanting and quite diverted my mind from the fatigue under which I was 
laboring. We had yet to descend a hill as long, but not as steep or as 
stony as the other. By this time our horses were in haste to be in camp, 
as well as ourselves, and mine made such lengthy strides in descending 
that it shook my sides surprisingly. It was dark when we got into camp, 
but the tent was ready for me, and tea also, for Mr. McLeod invited us to 
sup with him.

Dearest mother, let me tell you how I am sustained of the Lord in all this 
journey. For two or three days past I have felt weak, restless and 
scarcely able to sit on my horse - yesterday in particular. But see how I 
have been diverted by the scenery, and carried out of myself in 
conversation about home and friends. Mother will recollect what my 
feelings were and had been for a year previous to our leaving home. The 
last revival enjoyed, my visit to Onondaga and the scenes there - these I 
call my last impressions of home, and they are of such a character that 
when we converse about home these same feelings are revived and I forget 
that I am weary and want rest. This morning my feelings were a little 
peculiar; felt remarkably strong and well - so much so as to mention it - 
but could not see any reason why I should feel any more rested than on the 
morning previous. Then I began to see what a day's ride was before me, and 
I understood it. If I had had no better health to-day than yesterday I 
should have fainted under it. Then the promise appeared in full view: "As 
thy day, so shall thy strength be," and my soul rejoiced in God, and 
testifies to the truth of another evidently manifest, "Lo, I am with you 
always."

30th. - In consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday, and failure of 
animals, two of the company's men left their animals behind, with packs 
also. This occasioned some anxiety, lest the wolves should destroy their 
beaver. To-day they send back for them, and we make but a short move to 
find more grass. On following the course of the stream on which we 
encamped last night we found cherries in abundance, and had time to stop 
and gather as many as we wished. They are very fine - equal to any we find 
in the States. When we arrived Mr. Gray had the dinner waiting for us. 
This afternoon the men rested and made preparations to enter Walla Walla. 
The men who went for the animals returned late. We all regretted this 
hindrance, for Mr. McLeod intended to see Walla Walla to-day and return 
again with a muskmelon for Mrs. Whitman (so he said). he will go in 
tomorrow. It is the custom of the country to send heralds ahead to 
announce the arrival of a party and prepare for their reception.

31st. - Came to the Walla Walla river, within eight miles of the Fort 
(Wallula). Husband and I were very much exhausted with this day's lengthy 
ride. Most of the way was sandy with no water for many miles. When we left 
Mr. Spalding husband rode an Indian horse when he had never mounted before 
and found him a hard rider in every gait except a gallop, and slow in his 
movements, nor could he pace as mine did, so for the last six days we have 
galloped most of the way where the ground would admit of it.


September 1st, 1836
You can better imagine our feelings this morning than we can describe 
them. I could not realize that the end of our long journey was so near. We 
arose as soon as it was light, took a cup of coffee, ate of the duck we 
had given us last night and dressed for Walla Walla. We started while it 
was yet early, for all were in haste to reach the desired haven. If you 
could have seen us you would have been surprised, for both man and beast 
appeared alike propelled by the same force. The whole company galloped 
almost the whole way to the Fort. The fatigues of the long journey seemed 
to be forgotten in the excitement of being so near the close. Soon the 
Fort appeared in sight and when it was announced that we were near Mr. 
McLeod, Mr. Pambrun, the gentleman of the house, and Mr. Townsend (a 
traveling naturalist) sallied forth to meet us. After usual introduction 
and salutation we entered the Fort and were comfortably seated in 
cushioned armed chairs. They were just eating breakfast as we rode up and 
soon we were seated at the table and treated to fresh salmon, potatoes, 
tea, bread and butter. What a variety, thought I. You cannot imagine what 
an appetite these rides in the mountains give a person. I wish some of the 
feeble ones in the states could have a ride in the mountains; they would 
say like me, victuals, even the plainest kind, never relished so well 
before.

After breakfast we were shown the novelties of the place. While at 
breakfast, however, a young rooster placed himself upon the sill of the 
door and crowed. Now whether it was the sight of the first white woman, or 
out of compliment to the company, I know not, but this much for him, I was 
pleased with his appearance. You may think me simple for speaking of such 
a small circumstance. No one knows the feelings occasioned by seeing 
objects once familiar after a long deprivation. Especially when it is 
heightened by no expectation of meeting with them. The door-yard was 
filled with hens, turkeys and pigeons. And in another place we saw cows 
and goats in abundance, and I think the largest and fattest cattle and 
swine I ever saw.

We were soon shown a room which Mr. Pambrun said he had prepared for us, 
by making two bedsteads or bunks, on hearing of our approach. It was the 
west bastion of the Fort, full of port holes in the sides, but no windows, 
and filled with fire-arms. A large cannon, always loaded, stood behind the 
door by one of the holes. These things did not disturb me. I am so well 
pleased with the possession of a room to shelter me from the scorching sun 
that I scarcely notice them. Having arranged our things we were soon 
called to a feast of melons; the first, I think, I ever saw or tasted. The 
muskmelon was the largest, measuring eighteen in length, fifteen around 
the small end and nineteen around the large end. You may be assured that 
none of us were satisfied or willing to leave the table until we had 
filled our plates with chips.

At four o'clock we were called to dine. It consisted of pork, cabbage, 
turnips, tea, bread and butter; by favorite dishes, and much like the last 
dinner I ate with Mother Loomis. I am thus particular in my description of 
eatables so that you may be assured that we find something to eat beyond 
the Rocky mountains as well as at home. We find plenty of salt, but many 
here prefer to do almost, and some entirely without it, on their meats and 
vegetables.

Sept. 2d. - Have busied myself to-day in unpacking my trunk and arranging 
my things for a visit to Vancouver. Mother will wonder at this and think 
me a strange child for wishing to add three hundred miles to this journey; 
not from necessity, but because my husband is going, and I may as well go 
as to stay here alone. If we were obliged to go on horseback, I think I 
should not wish to undertake it, but we are going in a boat and it will 
not take us more than six days to go there. A very agreeable change and I 
think I shall enjoy it as well as to stay here. I feel remarkably well and 
rested-do not need to lounge at all, and so it is with us all. I can 
scarcely believe it possible of myself, but it is true, I feel as vigorous 
and as well able to engage in any domestic employment as I ever did in my 
life. 

I have not yet introduced you to the lady of the house. She is a native, 
from a tribe east of the mountains. She appears well, does not speak 
English, but her native language and French. The cooking and housework is 
done by men chiefly. Mr. Pambrun is from Canada, and much of the gentlemen 
in his appearance.

Sept. 3d. - Messrs. McLeod and Townsend left for Vancouver to-day, but Mr. 
McLeod is so loaded as not to be able to give us a comfortable passage. 
Mr. Pambrun is going by himself next week and offers us a passage with him.

About noon Mr. and Mrs. Spalding arrived with their company, having made 
better progress than was anticipated. Here we are all at Walla Walla, 
through the mercy of a kind Providence, in health and all our lives 
preserved. What cause for gratitude and praise to God! Surely my heart is 
ready to leap for joy at the thought of being so near the long-desired 
work of teaching the benighted ones the knowledge of a Savior, and having 
completed this hazardous journey under such favorable circumstances. Mr. 
Pambrun said to us the day we arrived, that there had never been a company 
previous to ours, that came into the Fort so well fed as ours for the last 
days of the journey. All our friends of the East company, who knew 
anything about the country, dreaded this part for us very much. But the 
Lord has been with us and provided for us all the way, and blessed be his 
holy name. Another cause for gratitude is the preservation of our animals, 
in this difficult, dangerous and lengthy route, while many parties 
previous to ours have had every animal taken from them, and been left on 
foot in a dangerous land, exposed to death. Two horses have given out with 
fatigue and have been left, two have been stolen or lost, but most that we 
have now, have come all the way from the settlements, and appear well. Two 
calves only have been lost. The remainder came on well except those we 
left at Snake Fort.

Sabbath, 4th. - This has been a day of mutual thanksgiving with us all. 
Assembled at the Fort at 12 o'clock for worship, our feelings are better 
imagined than described. This first Sabbath in September, a Sabbath of 
rest; first after completing a long journey, first in the vicinity of our 
future labors. All of us here before God. It is not enough for us alone to 
be thankful. Will not my beloved friends at home, the disciples of Jesus, 
unite with us in gratitude and praise to God for his great mercy? It is in 
answer to your prayers that we are here and are permitted to see this day 
under such circumstances. Feel to dedicate myself renewedly to His service 
among the heathen, and may the Lord's hand be as evidently manifest in 
blessing our labors among them, as it has been in bringing us here, and 
that, too, in answer to your prayers, beloved Christian friends. 

5th. - Mr. and Mrs. Spalding have concluded to go with us to Vancouver, so 
nothing can be done by either of the parties about location until the 
Indians return from their summer's hunt. Expect to leave tomorrow. Have 
had exceedingly high winds for two days and nights past, to which the 
place is subject. Our room shakes and the wind makes such a noise that we 
can scarcely hear each other converse.

Sept. 7, 1836. - We set sail from Walla Walla yesterday at two o'clock 
p.m. Our boat is an open one, manned with six oars, and the steersman. I 
enjoy it much; it is a very pleasant change in our manner of traveling. 
The Columbia is a beautiful river. Its waters are clear as crystal and 
smooth as a sea of glass, exceeding in beauty the Ohio; but the scenery on 
each side of it is very different. There is no timber to be seen, but 
there are high perpendicular banks of rocks in some places, while rugged 
bluffs and plains of sand in others, are all that meet the eye. We sailed 
until near sunset, when we landed, pitched our tents, supped our tea, 
bread and butter, boiled ham and potatoes, committed ourselves to the care 
of a kind Providence, and retired to rest.

This morning we arose before sunrise, embarked and sailed until nine 
o'clock, and are now landed for breakfast. Mr. Pambrun's cook is preparing 
it, while husband and myself are seated by a little shrub, writing. We are 
this moment called. Farewell.

8th. - Came last night quite to the Chute (above The Dalles), a fall in 
the river not navigable. There we slept, and this morning made the 
portage. All were obliged to land, unload, carry our baggage, and even the 
boat, for half a mile. I had frequently seen the picture of the Indians 
carrying a canoe, but now I saw the reality. We found plenty of Indians 
here to assist in making the portage. After loading several with our 
baggage and sending them on, the boat was capsized and placed upon the 
heads of about twenty of them, who marched off with it, with perfect ease. 
Below the main fall of water are rocks, deep, narrow channels, and many 
frightful precipices. We walked deliberately among the rocks, viewing the 
scene with astonishment, for this once beautiful river seemed to be cut up 
and destroyed by these huge masses of rock. Indeed, it is difficult to 
find where the main body of water passes. In high water we are told that 
these rocks are all covered with water, the river rising to such an 
astonishing height.

After paying the Indians for their assistance, which was a twist of 
tobacco about the length of a finger to each, we reloaded, went on board, 
sailed about two miles, and stopped for breakfast. This was done to get 
away from a throng of Indians. Many followed us, however, to assist in 
making another portage, three miles below this.

Sept. 9th. - We came to The Dalles just before noon. Here our boat was 
stopped by two rocks of immense size and height, all the water of the 
river passing between them in a very narrow channel, and with great 
rapidity. Here we were obliged to land and make a portage of two and a 
half miles, carrying the boat also. The Dalles is the great resort of 
Indians of many tribes for taking fish. We did not see many, however, for 
they had just left.

Now, mother, if I was with you by the fireside, I would relate a scene 
that would amuse you, and at the same time call forth your sympathies. But 
for my own gratification I will write it. After we landed, curiosity led 
us to the top of that rock, to see the course of the river through its 
narrow channel. But as I expected to walk that portage, husband thought it 
would be giving me too much fatigue to do both. I went with him to its 
base, to remain there until his return. I took a handful of hazelnuts and 
thought I would divert myself with cracking and eating them. I had just 
seated myself in the shade of the rock, ready to commence work, when, 
feeling something unusual on my neck, I put my hand under my cape and took 
from thence two insects, which I soon discovered to be fleas. Immediately 
I cast my eyes upon my dress before me, and, to my astonishment, found it 
was black with these creatures, making all possible speed to lay siege to 
my neck and ears. This sight made me almost frantic. What to do I knew 
not. Husband was away, sister Spalding had gone past hearing. To stand 
still I could not. I climbed up the rock in pursuit of my husband, who 
soon saw and came to me. I could not tell him, but showed him the cause of 
my distress. On opening the gathers of my dress around my waist, every 
plait was lined with them. Thus they had already laid themselves in ambush 
for a fresh attack. We brushed and shook, and shook and brushed, for an 
hour, not stopping to kill for that would have been impossible. By this 
time they were reduced very considerably, and I prepared to go to the 
boat. I was relieved from walking by the offer of a horse from a young 
chief. This was a kindness, for the way was mostly through sand, and the 
walk would have been fatiguing. I found the confinement of the boat 
distressing, on account of my miserable companions, who would not let me 
rest for a moment in any one position. But I was not the only sufferer. 
Every one in the boat was alike troubled, both crew and passengers. As 
soon as I was able to make a change in my apparel I found relief.

We made fine progress this morning till 9 o'clock, when we were met with a 
head wind and obliged to make shore. We met the crew last night with the 
Western express. This express goes from and returns to Vancouver twice a 
year.

Eve. - Have lain still all day because of the wind. This is a detention, 
as we intended to have been at Vancouver by to-morrow evening. A party of 
Indians came to our camp this eve. Every head was flattened. These are the 
first I have seen near enough to be able to examine them. Their eyes have 
a dull and heavy expression.

10th. - High winds and not able to move at all to-day.

11th. - We came to the Cascades for breakfast-another important fall in 
the river, where we are obliged to make a portage of a mile. The boat was 
towed along by the rocks with a rope over the falls. This is another great 
place for salmon fishing. A boat load was just ready for Vancouver when we 
arrived. I saw an infant here whose head was in the pressing machine. This 
was a pitiful sight. Its mother took great satisfaction in unbinding and 
showing its naked head to us. The child lay upon a board between which and 
its head was a squirrel skin. On its forehead lay a small square cushion, 
over which was a bandage drawn tight around, pressing its head against the 
board. In this position it is kept three or four months or longer, until 
the head becomes a fashionable shape. There is a variety of shapes among 
them, some being sharper than others. I saw a child about a year old whose 
head had been recently released from pressure, as I supposed from its 
looks. All the back part of it was a purple color, as if it had been sadly 
bruised. We are told that this custom is wearing away very fast. There are 
only a few tribes of this river who practice it.

Sept. 12th. - Breakfasted at the saw mill five miles from Vancouver, and 
made preparations for entering it. You may be surprised to hear of a saw 
mill here when I said that there was no timber on the Columbia. Since we 
passed the Cascades the scene is changed, and we are told there is timber 
all the way to the coast. 

Eve. - We are now in Vancouver, the New York of the Pacific Ocean. Our 
first sight, as we approached the fort, was two ships lying in the harbor, 
one of which, the Neriade, Captain Royal, had just arrived from London. 
The Columbia, Captain Dandy, came last May, and has since been to the 
Sandwich Islands, and returned. On landing we first met Mr. Townsend, whom 
we saw at Walla Walla. He is from Philadelphia, and has been in the 
mountains two years. He is sent here by a society to collect the different 
species of bipeds, and quadrupeds, peculiar to this country. We brought a 
parcel of letters to him, the first he had received since he had left 
home. Mr. Townsend led us into the fort. But before we reached the home of 
the chief Factor, Dr. McLoughlin, we were met by several gentlemen, who 
came to give us a welcome, Mr. Douglas, Mr. Tolmie and Dr. McLoughlin, of 
the Hudson's Bay Company, who invited us in and seated us on the sofa. 
Soon we were introduced to Mrs. McLoughlin and Mrs. Douglas, both natives 
of the country-half breeds. After chatting a little we were invited to 
walk in the garden.

What a delightful place this is; what a contrast to the rough, barren sand 
plains, through which we had so recently passed. Here we find fruit of 
every description, apples, peaches, grapes, pears, plums, and fig trees in 
abundance; also cucumbers, melons, beans, peas, beets, cabbage, tomatoes 
and every kind of vegetable too numerous to be mentioned. Every part is 
very neat and tastefully arranged, with fine walks, lined on each side 
with strawberry vines. At the opposite end of the garden is a good summer 
house covered with grape vines. Here I must mention the origin of these 
grapes and apples. A gentlemen, twelve years ago while at a party in 
London, put the seeds of the grapes and apples which he ate into his vest 
pocket. Soon afterwards he took a voyage to this country and left them 
here, and now they are greatly multiplied.

After promenading as much as we wished, and returning, we were met by Mrs. 
Copendel, a lady from England, who arrived in the ship Columbia last May, 
and Miss Maria, daughter of Dr. McLoughlin, quite an interesting young 
lady. After dinner we were introduced to Rev. Mr. Beaver and lady, a 
clergyman of the Church of England, who arrived last week in the ship 
Neriade. This is more than we expected when we left home-that we should be 
privileged with the acquaintance and society of two English ladies. 
Indeed, we seem to be nearly allied to Old England, for most of the 
gentlemen of the Company are from there or Scotland.

We have not found Rev. Samuel Parker here, to our great disappointment. He 
went to Oahu in the ship Columbia, a few weeks before we arrived. We have 
mourned about it considerably, for we thought it would be so acceptable to 
our dear parents and friends at home to hear him say that he had seen us 
alive here, after completing this long, unheard-of journey. Besides, I 
wished to send home many things which I cannot now. More than all this, 
his counsels and advice would have been such a relief to us, at this 
important time, as to location, character of the Indians, and the like. 
But it is wisely ordered, and we submit. He appears to have been a 
favorite here, and to have done much good.

The Messrs. Lee left Vancouver on Saturday last for their station on the 
Wallamet. Mr. Daniel Lee has been out of health, and for the year past has 
been at Oahu. He returned on the Neriade, benefited by his visit.

Sept. 13. - This morning visited the school to hear the children sing. It 
consists of about fifty-one children, who have French fathers and Indian 
mothers. All the laborers here are Canadian French, with Indian wives. 
Indeed, some of the gentlemen of the company have native wives, and have 
adopted the custom of the country not to allow their wives to eat with 
them. French is the prevailing language here. English is spoken only by a 
few.

Just before dinner we went on board the Neriade, the first ship I ever 
saw. She is a man-of-war, and goes to the Northwest coast soon. The 
Columbia returns to London this fall. The Company have lost three ships on 
the coast.

Sept. 14. - We were invited to a ride to see the farm. Have ridden fifteen 
miles this afternoon. We visited the barns, stock, etc. They estimated 
their wheat crops at four thousand bushels this year, peas the same, oats 
and barley between fifteen and seventeen hundred bushels each. The potato 
and turnip fields are large and fine. Their cattle are numerous, estimated 
at a thousand head in all the settlements. They have swine in abundance, 
also sheep and goats, but the sheep are of an inferior kind. We find also 
hens, turkeys, and pigeons, but no geese.

You will ask what kind of beds they have here. I can tell you what kind of 
bed they made for us, and I have since found it a fashionable bed for this 
country. The bedstead is in the form of a bunk, with a rough board bottom, 
upon which are laid about a dozen of the Indian blankets. These with a 
pair of pillows covered with calico cases constitute our beds, sheets and 
covering. There are several feather beds in the place made of the feathers 
of wild ducks, geese, cranes and the like. There is nothing here suitable 
for ticking. The best and only material is brown linen sheeting. The 
Indian ladies make theirs of deer skin. Could we obtain a pair of geese 
from any quarter I should think much of them.

Sept. 16th. - Every day we have something new to see. We went to the 
stores and found them filled above and below with the cargo of the two 
ships, all in unbroken bales. They are chiefly Indian goods, and will be 
sent away this fall to the several different posts of the company in the 
ship Neriade. We have found here every article for comfort and durability 
that we need, but many articles for convenience and all fancy articles are 
not here.

Visited the dairy, also, where we found butter and cheese in abundance-saw 
an improvement in the manner of raising cream. Their pans are an oblong 
square, quite large but shallow, flaring a little, made of wood and lined 
with tin. In the center is a hole with a long plug. When the cream has 
risen they place the pan over a tub or pail, remove the plug, and the milk 
will run off leaving only the cream in the pan. I think that these must be 
very convenient in a large dairy. They milk between fifty and sixty cows.

On visiting the mill we did not find it in a high state of improvement. It 
goes by horse power and has a wire bolt. This seemed a hard way of getting 
bread, but better so than no bread, or to grind by hand. The company have 
one at Colville that goes by water, five days ride from Walla Walla, from 
whence we expect to obtain our flour, potatoes and pork. They have three 
hundred hogs.

Dr. McLoughlin promises to loan us enough to make a beginning and all the 
return he asks is that we supply other settlers in the same way. He 
appears desirous to afford us every facility for living in his power. No 
person could have received a more hearty welcome, or be treated with 
greater kindness than we have been since our arrival. 

Sept. 17th. - A subject is now before the minds of certain individuals, in 
which I feel a great interest. It is that we ladies spend the winter at 
Vancouver, while our husbands go to seek their locations and build. Dr. 
McLoughlin is certain that it will be the best for us, and I believe is 
determined to have us stay. The thought of it is not very pleasant to 
either of us. For several reasons, I had rather go to Walla Walla, where, 
if we failed to make a location, or of building this fall, we could stay 
very comfortably, and have enough to eat, but not as comfortably, or have 
a s great a variety as here; besides, there is the difficulty of ascending 
the river in high water, not to say anything of a six months' separation, 
when it seems to be least desirable; but all things will be ordered for 
the best. 

Sept. 18. - Mr. Beaver held two services in a room in Dr. McLoughlin's 
barn to-day. Enjoyed the privilege much. This form of worship, of the 
Church of England, differs in no way from that of the Episcopalians in the 
States. The most of the gentlemen of the fort are Scotch Presbyterians, 
very few being Episcopalians. The great mass of the laborers are Roman 
Catholics, who have three services during the Sabbath, one of which is 
attended at this house, at which Dr. McLoughlin officiates in French. He 
translates a sermon or a tract, and reads a chapter in the Bible and a 
prayer. The singing in Mr. Beaver's church was done by the children, some 
of their tunes having been taught them by Rev. Mr. Parker, and others by 
the Mr. Shepherd, of the Methodist mission.

Sept. 19. - The question is decided at last that we stay here about four 
or five weeks. There is so much baggage to be taken up now, that the boat 
will be sufficiently loaded without us. Have the cheering promise that our 
husbands will come for us in a short time if prospered. One thing comforts 
us. They are as unwilling to leave us as we are to stay, and would not if 
it were possible for us to go now. From this we are sure that they will 
make every effort to return for us soon. We are told that the rainy season 
will commence soon, and continue through the winter, and late in the 
spring, while at Walla Walla there is none. Vancouver, too, is subject to 
fever and ague. These are quite good reasons for preferring Walla Walla, 
even if we had to live in a lodge.

Have been making some necessary purchases for our two Indian boys, Richard 
and John, which we are glad to do, partly as a reward for their faithful 
care of the cattle during the journey. We left them at Walla Walla. They 
regretted our leaving them, and now I cannot feel willing to stay away 
from them all winter. Their anxiety to study continues the same, 
especially Richard. We love them both and feel deeply interested in their 
welfare, and shall treat them as our own as long as they deserve it.

Sept. 20th. - Dr. McLoughlin gave my husband a pair of leather pantaloons 
to-day. All the gentlemen here wear them for riding for economy. Riding 
horseback and carrying a gun in very destructive to cloth pantaloons.

Our husbands have been making preparations to leave us to-day, but have 
found so much to do that they could not get ready to leave much before 
night. They have concluded to start the boat a short distance and camp, 
while they, with Mr. Pambrun and Mr. Gray, remain in the Fort to leave 
early in the morning.

Sept. 21. - Our friends left us this morning early. One thing I should 
have mentioned, as decided upon before they left, was the propriety of 
making two stations. After consideration it was decided best to do so for 
several reasons. The Cayuses as well as the Nez Perces are very anxious to 
have teachers among them. They are a numerous tribe [not numerous, but 
wealthy and influential.-M. Eells] and speak the same language as the Nez 
Perces. There are other fields open ready for the harvest and we wish that 
there were many more laborers here ready to occupy them immediately. 
Several places have been recommended which our husbands intend visiting 
before they fix upon any place. You will recollect that we had Grande 
Ronde in view as a location when we left home. Our reasons for not fixing 
upon that place are insurmountable. The pass in the Blue mountains is so 
difficult and the distance so great that it would be next to impossible to 
think of obtaining supplies sufficient for our support. We could not 
depend upon game, for it is very scarce and uncertain. Mr. Parker 
recommends a place on the Kooskooska (Clearwater) river, six days' ride 
above Walla Walla. I hope to give you our exact location before I send 
this.

Sept. 22. - Dr. McLoughlin has put his daughter in my care and wishes me 
to hear her recitations. Thus I shall have enough to do for diversion 
while I stay. I could employ all my time in writing and work for myself if 
it were not for his wishes.

I have not given you a description of our eatables here. There is such a 
variety I know not where to begin. For breakfast we have coffee or cocoa, 
salt salmon and roast ducks with potatoes. When we have eaten our supply 
of them, our plates are changed and we make a finish on bread and butter.

For dinner we have a greater variety. First we are always treated to a 
dish of soup, which is very good. All kinds of vegetables in use are 
taken, chopped fine, and put into water with a little rice, ad boiled to a 
soup. The tomatoes are a prominent article, and usually some fowl meat, 
duck or other kind, is cut fine and added. If it has been roasted once it 
is just as good (so the cook says), and then spiced to the taste. After 
our soup dishes are removed, then comes a variety of meats to prove our 
tastes. After selecting and changing, we change plates and try another if 
we choose, and so at every new dish have a clean plate. Roast duck is an 
everyday dish, boiled pork, tripe, and sometimes trotters, fresh salmon or 
sturgeon-yea, articles too numerous to be mentioned. When these are set 
aside, a nice pudding or an apple pie is next introduced. After this a 
water and a muskmelon make their appearance, and last of all cheese, bread 
or biscuit and butter are produced to complete the whole. But there is one 
article on the table I have not yet mentioned, and of which I never 
partake. That is wine. The gentlemen frequently drink toasts to each 
other, but never give us an opportunity of refusing, for they know that we 
belong to the Tetotal Society. We have talks about drinking wine, but no 
one joins our society. They have a Temperance Society here and at 
Wallamet, formed by Mr. Lee.

Our tea is very plain. Bread and butter, good tea, plenty of milk and 
sugar.

Sept. 30th. - We are invited to ride as often as once a week for exercise, 
and we generally ride all the afternoon. To-day Mrs. McLoughlin rode with 
us. She keeps her old fashion of riding gentlemen fashion. This is the 
universal custom of Indian women, and they have saddles with high backs 
and fronts. We have been recommended to use these saddles, a more easy way 
of riding, but we have never seen the necessity of changing our fashion.

I sing about an hour every evening with the children, teaching them new 
tunes, at the request of Dr. McLoughlin. Thus I am wholly occupied, and 
can scarcely find as much time as I want to write.

Oct. 18th.
The Montreal Express came this afternoon, and a general time of rejoicing 
it is to everyone. News from distant friends, both sad and pleasing.

Mr. Spalding has come with it and brought a letter from my husband, filled 
with pleasing information. The Lord has been with them since they left us, 
and has prospered them beyond all expectations. They have each selected a 
location. My husband remains there to build, while Mr. Spalding comes 
after us. Cheering thought this, to be able to make a beginning in our 
pleasing work so soon. 

My Dear Sister Perkins: - Your letter was handed me on the 8th. inst., a 
little after noon, and I must say I was a little surprised to receive a 
return so soon. Surely, we are near each other. You will be likely to have 
known opportunities of sending to us, more frequently than I shall your 
way, which I hope you will not neglect because you have not received the 
answer to yours. I do not intend to be so long again in replying as I have 
this time. When I received yours, I was entirely alone. My husband had 
gone to brother Spalding's to assist him in putting up a house, and soon 
after, we had the privilege of preparing and entertaining Mr. and Mrs. 
McDonald and family of Colville. They came by the way of brother 
Spalding's, spent nearly a week with them and then came here. They left 
here last Thursday, and are still at Walla Walla. Had a very pleasant, 
agreeable visit with them. Find Mrs. McDonald quite an intelligent woman; 
speaks English very well, reads and is the principal instructor of their 
children. She is a correspondent, also, with myself and sister Spalding. 
She appears more thoughtful upon the subject of religion than any I have 
met with before, and has some consistent views. What her experimental 
knowledge is, I am unable to say. It would be a privilege to have her 
situated near us, so that we could have frequent intercourse; it would, no 
doubt be profitable. 

You ask after my plan of proceedings with the Indians, etc. I wish I was 
able to give you satisfactory answers. I have no plan separate from my 
husband's, and besides you are mistaken about the language being at 
command, for nothing is more difficult than for me to attempt to convey 
religious truth in their language, especially when there are so few, or 
not terms expressive of the meaning. Husband succeeds much better than I, 
and we have good reason to feel that so far as understood, the truth 
affects the heart, and not little, too. We have done nothing for the 
females separately; indeed, our house is so small, and only one room to 
admit them, and that is the kitchen. It is the men only that frequent our 
house much. Doubtless you have been with the Indians long enough to 
discover this feature, that women are not allowed the same privileges as 
men. I scarcely see them except on the Sabbath in our assemblies. I have 
frequently desired to have more intercourse with them, and am waiting to 
have a room built for them and other purposes of instruction. Our 
principal effort is with the children now, and we find many very 
interesting ones. But more of this in future when I have more time.

Mr. Pambrun has sent a horse for me to ride to his place tomorrow. Mrs. 
Pambrun has been out of health for some time, and we have fears that she 
will not recover. As I have considerable preparations to make for the 
visit, must defer writing more at present. In haste, I subscribe myself,

Your affectionate sister in Christ,

NARCISSA WHITMAN

P.S. - I long to hear from Mrs. Lee.

 

WALLA WALLA, 11th.
My Dear Sister:
I am still here. The brigade arrived yesterday and having time and 
opportunity to send home for this letter, both are sent by return boats. 
We have just received three or four letters from our friends at home, they 
being the first news received since we bade them farewell. Find it good to 
know what is going on there, although all is not of a pleasing character. 
Our Sandwich Island friends give us pleasing intelligence of the glorious 
display of the power of God in converting that heathen people in such 
multitudes.

Ever yours,

N. WHITMAN.

 

Rev. Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins,
Wascopum,
La Dalls.
My Dear Sister Perkins:
I did not think when I received your good long letter that I should have 
delayed until this time before answering it. But so varied are the scenes 
that have passed before me, so much company and so many cares, etc., 
besides writing many letters home, that I beg you will excuse me. 
Notwithstanding all this, I have often, very often, thought of you and 
wished for the privilege of seeing you. I must confess I do not like quite 
so well to think of you where you now are as when you were nearer. Why did 
you go? Some of our sisters might just as well as not have spent a short 
season with you this fall (for they have nothing else to do, comparatively 
speaking) rather than to have you and your dear husband lose so much time 
from your interesting field of labor; and besides we fear the influence of 
the climate of the lower country upon your health. Our prayer is that the 
Lord will deal gently with you and bless and preserve you to be a rich and 
lasting good to the benighted ones for whom you have devoted your life.

How changed the scene now with us at Wieletpoo from what it has been in 
former days. Instead of husband and myself stalking about here like two 
solitary beings, we have the society of six of our brethren and sisters 
who eat at our table and expect to spend the winter with us. This is a 
privilege we highly praise, especially when we come to mingle our voices 
in prayer and praise together before the mercy seat, and hear the word of 
God preached in our own language from Sabbath to Sabbath, and to commune 
together around the table of our dear Son and Saviour Jesus Christ. Those 
favors, dear sister, almost make us forget we are on heathen ground. Since 
I last wrote to you we have enjoyed refreshing seasons from the hand of 
our Heavenly Father in the conviction and conversion of two or three 
individuals in our family. Doubtless Brother Lee has given you the 
particulars, yet I wish to speak of it for our encouragement who have been 
engaged in the concert of prayer on Tuesday evening for the year past. I 
verily believe we have not prayed in vain, for our revival seasons have 
been on that evening, and I seem to feel, too, that the whole atmosphere 
in all Oregon is effected by that meeting, for the wicked know far and 
near, that there are those here who pray. We have every reason to be 
assured that were there more faith and prayer and consecration to the work 
among ourselves, we should witness in the heathen around us many turning 
to the Lord. If I know my own heart I think I, too, desire to be freed 
from so many worldly cares and perplexities, and that my time may be spent 
in seeking the immediate conversion of these dear heathen to God. O, what 
a thought to think of meeting them among the blood-washed throng around 
the throne of God! Will not their songs be as sweet as any we can sing? 
What joy will then fill our souls to contemplate the privilege we now 
enjoy of spending and being spent for their good. If we were constantly to 
keep our eyes on the scenes that are before us, we should scarcely grow 
weary in well doing, or be disheartened by the few trials and privations 
through which we are called to pass.

Dear sister, I have written in great haste and hope you will excuse me. 
Wishing and expecting to hear from you soon, of your prosperity and 
happiness, with much love and sisterly affection to you and yours, believe 
me,

Ever yours in the best bonds,

NARCISSA WHITMAN


Rev. Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins,
Willamette.
WALLA WALLA, Dec. 5, 1836
My Dear Mother:
I have been thinking of my beloved parents this evening; of the parting 
scene, and of the probability that I shall never see those dear faces 
again while I live. Sweet as it used to be, when my heart was full, to sit 
down and pour into my mother's bosom all my feelings, both sad and 
rejoicing; now, when far away from the parental roof, and thirsting for 
the same precious privilege, I take my pen and find a sweet relief in 
giving her my history in the same familiar way. Perhaps no one else feels 
as I do. It would be, indeed, a great satisfaction to me to have my mother 
know how I do from day to day-what my employment and prospects are-but 
more especially the dealings, the kind dealings of my Heavenly Father 
towards us continually.

We left Vancouver Thursday noon, Nov. 3rd, in two boats-Mr. McLeod, myself 
and baggage in one, and Mr. S. in the other. We are well provided for in 
everything we could wish-good boats, with strong and faithful men to 
manage them; indeed, eight of them were Iroquois Indians, from Montreal-
men accustomed to the water from their childhood, and well acquainted with 
the dangers of this river. Mr. McLeod's accompanying us was as unexpected 
as desirable. He only came into Vancouver two days previous to our 
leaving, from an expedition to the Umpqua, south of the Willamette. It 
rained some that afternoon, also on the 4th and 5th; the 6th it rained all 
day, nearly, and the wind was very strong, but in our favor, so that we 
kept our sail up most of the day. Our boat was well covered with an 
oilcloth. At night, when a great fire was made, our tents pitched and the 
cloth spread for tea, all was pleasant and comfortable. I rolled my bed 
and blankets in my India-rubber cloak, which preserved them quite well 
from the rain, so that nights I slept warm and comfortable as ever. My 
featherbed was of essential service to me in keeping my health this rainy 
voyage. Did not expect to get one when I wrote from Vancouver.

On the morning of the 7th we arrived at the Cascades, made the portage and 
breakfasted. Had considerable rain. The men towed the boats up the falls, 
on the opposite side of the river. The water was very low, and made it 
exceedingly difficult for them to drag the boats up, in the midst of the 
rocks and noise of the foaming waters. Sometimes they were obliged to lift 
the boats over the rocks, at others go around them, to the entire 
destruction of the gum upon them, which prevents them from leaking. It was 
nearly night before all were safely over the difficult passage, and our 
boats gummed, ready for launching.

8th. - Breakfasted just below The Dalles. Passed them without unloading 
the boats. This was done by attaching a strong rope of considerable length 
to the stern of the boat, two men only remaining in it to guide and keep 
it clear of the rocks, while the remainder, and as many Indians as can be 
obtained, draw it along with the rope, walking upon the edge of the rocks 
above the frightful precipice. At the Little Dalles, just above these, the 
current is exceedingly strong and rapid, and full of whirlpools. Not 
recollecting the place particularly, at the request of the bowsman I 
remained in the boat, being quite fatigued with my walk past the other 
Dalles. It is a terrific sight, and a frightful place to be in, to be 
drawn along in such a narrow channel between such high, craggy, 
perpendicular bluffs, the men with the rope clambering sometimes upon 
their hands and knees upon the very edge, so high above us as to appear 
small, like boys. Many times the rope would catch against the rocks and 
oblige someone to crawl carefully over the horrible precipice to unloosen 
it, much to the danger of his life. When my husband came up, in passing 
this place, the rope caught in a place so difficult of access that no one 
would venture his life to extricate it, for some time. At last, an Indian 
ventured. When he had ascended sufficiently to unfasten it, he was unable 
to return, and did not until he was drawn up by a rope. They had another 
accident which threatened both the lives of some of them, and the 
property, and but for the protecting hand of God would have been lost. 
While the men with the rope were climbing up a steep and difficult ascent, 
the rope lodged upon a rock, which held it fast, and had it remained there 
until all hands had gained their point and commenced hauling, all would 
have been well; but one of the men above prematurely shoved it off. The 
current took the boat down stream rapidly, in spite of every effort to 
save it, prostrating all hands upon the rocks, and some of them were 
nearly precipitated down the precipice by the rope. The boat received no 
injury, but was safely moored below The Dalles, on the opposite shore. Our 
husbands, with the men, obtained an Indian canoe and crossed to the boat. 
Thus they were preserved. It was just night as we succeeded in passing 
this difficult place in safety, for which we desired to be grateful. Many 
boats have been dashed to pieces at these places, and more than a hundred 
lives lost. The water was very low at this time, which makes the danger 
much less in passing them. No rain to-day. Thursday we made the portage of 
the chutes, and were all day about it. While on land, had several heavy 
showers. Friday, also, was another soaking-wet day; the night, too. This 
was dreary enough. Saturday was much more pleasant-no rain. We arrived at 
Walla Walla early Sabbath morning, in health, with all our effects 
preserved to us, mercifully. I felt that I had great cause to bless and 
praise God, for so seasonable a return, and under such favorable 
circumstances. Husband come from our location on the 18th. Had succeeded 
in making a comfortable place for me, but because of Mr. Pambrun's earnest 
solicitation for me to remain a few weeks with his family. I did not 
return with him. Mr. and Mrs. P. are exceeding kind-appear to feel that 
they cannot do too much to make us contented and happy here. In the 
meantime, I am cheerfully engaged in teaching the wife and daughter to 
read. We consider it a very kind providence to be situated near one family 
so interesting, and a native female that promises to be so much society 
for me. She is learning to speak the English language quite fast. Mr. and 
Mrs. S. left Walla Walla for their location, on the 22nd of November, Mr. 
Gray going with them to assist in building, etc. This dear sister goes 
very cheerfully to her location, expecting to live in a skin lodge until 
her house is built; and this, too, in the dead of winter; But she prefers 
it to remaining here, and so should I.

Heard from husband last week, and of the death of Hinds, a colored man who 
came with us from Rendezvous on account of his health, being far gone with 
the dropsy. Already death has entered our house, and laid one low.

Dec. 8th. - Received intelligence that husband was coming tomorrow to 
remove our effects and myself to our new home. It is an agreeable thought 
to be so near a fixed location after journeying so long.

Dec. 26th. - Where are we now, and who are we that we should be thus 
blessed of the Lord? I can scarcely realize that we are thus comfortably 
fixed, and keeping house, so soon after our marriage, when considering 
what was then before us. We arrived here on the tenth-distance, twenty-
five miles from Walla Walla. Found a house reared and the lean-to 
enclosed, a good chimney and fireplace, and the floor laid. No windows or 
door except blankets. My heart truly leaped for joy as I alighted from my 
horse, entered and seated myself before a pleasant fire (for it was now 
night). It occurred to me that my dear parents had made a similar 
beginning, and perhaps a more difficult one than ours. We had neither 
straw, bedstead or table, nor anything to make them of except green 
cottonwood. All our boards are sawed by hand. Here my husband and his 
laborers (two Owyhees from Vancouver and a man who crossed the mountains 
with us), and Mr. Gray, have been encamped in tents since the 19th of 
October, toiling excessively hard to accomplish this much for our 
comfortable residence during the remainder of the winter.

It is indeed, a lovely situation. We are on a beautiful level-a peninsula 
formed by the branches of the Walla Walla river, upon the base of which 
our house stands, on the southeast corner, near the shore of the main 
river. To run a fence across to the opposite river, on the north from our 
house-this, with the river, would enclose 300 acres of good land for 
cultivation, all directly under the eye. The rivers are barely skirted 
with timber. This is all the woodland we can see; beyond them, as far as 
the eye can reach, plains and mountains appear. On the east, a few rods 
from the house, is a range of small hills, covered with bunchgrass-a very 
excellent food for animals, and upon which they subsist during winter, 
even digging it from under the snow.