Letters and Journals of Narcissa Whitman - Part 1



ON BOARD STEAMBOAT SIAM
March 15, 1836.
Dear, Dear Mother:
Your proposal concerning keeping a diary as I journey comes before my mind 
often. I have not found it practicable while traveling by land, although 
many events have passed which, if noted as they occurred, might have been 
interesting. We left Pittsburgh this morning at ten o'clock and are 
sailing at the rate of thirteen miles an hour. It is delightful passing so 
rapidly down the waters of the beautiful river. The motion of the boat is 
very agreeable to me, except while writing. Our accommodations are good; 
we occupy a stateroom where we can be as retired as we wish. Two boats 
left Pittsburgh before we did, but they are now in our rear. The captain 
of one of them became very angry because we attempted to pass, and shot 
into our path before us. For a time we thought injury would be done by 
their coming in contact but we passed her unhurt. The siam was a very 
strong boat and might have sunk the other without much difficulty. It is 
an imposing scene to see the march of these stately figures as they pass 
us on the waters. Some are very large, and are swarming with inhabitants. 
It has been quite pleasant to-day, but too cold to be on deck much of the 
time. We have seen no snow since we left the Allegheny mountains.

March 28.- We have just come on board the Majestic. It is rightly named, 
for it is one of the largest boats on the river. We are now sailing on the 
waters of the great Mississippi. When I commenced this sheet we had just 
left Pittsburgh. We arrived in Cincinnati Thursday noon. Found Brother 
Spalding. Said he had been waiting for us anxiously for a fortnight; spent 
the remainder of the week in making arrangements for our journey, and on 
the Sabbath had a very interesting time with the disciples of Jesus there; 
felt strengthened and comforted as we left them, to pursue our journey 
into the wilderness. Much good feeling was manifested in the churches - a 
deep interest appeared to be taken in the missions. Especially our two 
Indian youth attracted the gaze and admiration of a crowd on Sabbath, but 
our expectations were not realized, and Saturday night found us on the 
waters of the Mississippi, eighty-nine miles from St. Louis. We felt it 
our duty not to travel on the Sabbath, and determined to leave the boat, 
although many on board tried to persuade us to remain, and have preaching 
on the Sabbath, and of the number one was a Presbyterian minister from New 
York, who appeared quite anxious to detain us. At ten o'clock we landed at 
Chester, Illinois, and had a most delightful Sabbath of rest with the few 
disciples of Jesus we found there. An aged minister, who had been toiling 
in this part of the vineyard ever since the year 1817, we found of a 
kindred spirit. He preaches to several congregations. Said he had not had 
a brother minister to preach for him since he had been there; and to have 
a mission family call and enjoy the privileges of the Sabbath with him 
seemed like angels' visits. He had heard of their passing and repassing, 
often, Mr. Spalding preached in the forenoon, and in the afternoon my 
husband requested the children and youth to meet in a Sabbath school, and 
we distributed a number of books among them. Of the number we found one 
young man who professed to be a Roman Catholic - said he wanted to know 
our religion - had not a Protestant Bible, but if he had one would read it 
attentively. My husband gave him a testament, for which he appeared 
grateful.

Since we came on board we have come on very pleasantly; our accommodations 
are better here than on any previous boat-excellent cooks, and enough to 
eat - servants who stand at our elbows ready to supply every want.

Five o'clock.- We are now fast upon a sand-bar, but think we shall soon 
get off. It has rained all day - a dense fog covers the river, so that it 
is impossible to shun them. We shall be obliged to lie still to-night.

29th, Tuesday morning. - Fog very thick this morning, but now appears to 
be dispersing. We shall expect to see St. Louis to-day. Cold and damp, and 
am obliged to stay in my room. Can scarcely resist the temptation to stand 
out to view the shores of this majestic river. Varied scenes present 
themselves as we pass up - beautiful landscapes - on the one side high and 
rugged bluffs, and on the other low plains.

Evening. - We are now in port. Husband has been to the office, expecting 
to find letters from dear, dear friends at home, but find none. Why have 
they not written? seeing it is the very last, last time they will have to 
cheer my heart with intelligence from home, home, sweet home, and the 
friends I love. But I am not sad. My health is good. My mind completely 
occupied with present duty and passing events. St. Louis has a commanding 
situation. It is so late and foggy, our view of it as we come in is quite 
indistinct.

Wednesday, 30th. - A boat is in port, ready to take us up the Missouri, 
and will leave to-day. I intended to write several letters from here, 
expecting to spend some time, but as we made our purchases at Cincinnati, 
it is not necessary. When we were in Pittsburgh we heard that the Fur 
Company's steamboat Diana had left St. Louis. We then expected to make our 
journey from Liberty to Bellview by land, probably on horseback, 300 miles 
of which would have been the most difficult part of the journey, on 
account of the season and high water. But Providence has ordered it 
otherwise. Since we arrived here we learn that the Diana snagged herself 
and sunk, but in shallow water, so that no lives were lost. We have the 
promise of overtaking her before we reach Liberty. She is now lying up for 
repairs and drying her freight. We had a call from a gentleman this 
morning, who has resided in the mountains. Richard knew him very well. Is 
going back with us. He was formerly from Cincinnati. It seems to me now 
that we are on the very borders of civilization, although we shall pass 
many towns on our way to Liberty. At this moment my feelings are peculiar. 
I hardly know how to define them. I have not one feeling of regret at the 
step which I have taken, but count it a privilege to go forth in the name 
of my Master, cheerfully bearing the toil and privation that we expect to 
encounter. I intend to write home from Council Bluffs if I am not 
prevented, and give some statements which I cannot now. We could not pack 
all contained in that box sent us from Angelica. What we could not, 
Brother Whitman took home to sell for us, and sent the avails to St. 
Louis. How anxiously I looked for a line or two from some one of the dear 
family, in that box somewhere, but I saw none. Jane, don't forget to write 
to them for me. It is out of my power to write as much as I should like 
to. How often I think of the Christians in Angelica - those beloved 
sisters and brothers, with whom we have knelt before the altar of prayer. 
Surely, now I feel the influence of their prayers, although widely 
separated. Say to them we wish them to rejoice with us, and thank God for 
his kind protection, and the prosperity which has attended us since we 
left home; we are making arrangements for crossing the mountains, and 
shall expect o, unless prevented in the Providence of God. It think I 
should like to whisper in mother's ear many things which I cannot write. 
If I could only see her in her room for one-half hour. This much I can, 
mother. I have one of the kindest husbands, and the very best every way. 
Tell father by the side of his calomel he has taken a quarter of a pound 
of lobelia and a large quantity of cayenne, which will answer my purpose 
better than some of the apothecary medicines.

My husband unites with me in sending a great deal of love to dear friends 
there - G. and F. J., C.H.E. and N., and to father and mother. Mr. and 
Mrs. Spalding will go with us over the mountains. We send our Christian 
regard to Brother and Sister Hull, Brother and Sister Allen and Sister 
Patrick, and all who inquire. I have become very much interested in the 
Nez Perces lads; they are very affectionate and seem to wish to please us 
in everything. We think they will be of great service to the mission in 
various ways. We have just had a call from Dr. and Mrs. Misner. We expect 
the boat will leave us soon.

Farewell dear, dear parents. Pray for your unworthy children.

NARCISSA WHITMAN

P.S. - Mother, I forgot to say that I heard Dr. Beecher in C., when I was 
there. Was introduced to Rev. Mr. Galliger, but did not hear him. My 
husband heard him in Pittsburgh - I was not able to go to church that day, 
because of a severe headache. Dr. B. appears the same in the pulpit that 
he does at a distance - I mean his preaching. He is a small man, quite 
indifferent in his appearance. I could hardly believe it was he when I saw 
him come.

N.W.


Mr. Stephen Prentice,
Angelica, Allegheny Co., New York.
ON BOARD STEAMBOAT CHARITON
Thursday, March 31, 1836.
Dear Sister Jane:
We did not leave last night as expected, and the day being very pleasant, 
gave me an opportunity of visiting the city. Received a call from our old 
acquaintance, Rev. Milton Kimball, and with him visited the cathedral. It 
was high-mass day.

We left the cathedral, after staying about an hour; called and made some 
purchases, then returned to the boat, and found that Mr. Lovejoy had 
called, to give us an invitation to dinner with him. Felt regret very much 
that I did not see him. My husband saw him. he wished to know when we were 
married, because he designed to publish it in the Observer. He still 
continues to edit his paper in St. Louis.

We left St. Louis immediately after dinner. Passed many delightful 
residences in Missouri, on the banks of the Mississippi, just as we leave 
the city. Dwellings situated upon mounds, and many remaining ones yet to 
be occupied - natural mounds, in appearance like that at Amity, only much 
larger. One of them is the situation of a female academy, now building. My 
curiosity was Uncle Sam's toothpullers - two huge-looking boats lying to. 
They fearlessly run into danger, search out difficulties, and remove them. 
I should like to see them in operation, but shall not expect to now. 
Twilight had nearly gone when we entered the waters of the great Missouri, 
but the moon shone in her brightness. It was a beautiful evening. My 
husband and myself went upon the top of the boat, to take a more 
commanding view of the scenery. How majestic, how grand, was the scene! 
the meeting of two such great waters. "Surely, how admirable are thy 
works, O Lord of Hosts." I could have dwelt upon the scene still longer 
with pleasure, but Brother Spalding called us to prayers, and we left 
beholding the works of God for his immediate worship.

April 1st. - Nothing of much importance occurred to-day. My eyes are 
satiated with the same beautiful scenery all along the coasts of this 
mighty river, so peculiar to this western country. One year ago to-day 
since my husband first arrived in St. Louis on his exploring route to the 
mountains. We are one week earlier passing up the river this spring than 
he was last year. While the boat stopped to take in wood we went on shore, 
found some rushes, picked a branch of cedar, went to a spring for clear 
water (the river water is very rily at all times), and rambled 
considerably in pursuit of new objects. One of these circumstances I must 
mention, which was quite diverting to us. On the rocks near the river we 
found a great quantity of the prickly pear. Husband knew from experience 
the effects of handling them, and cautioned me against them, but I thought 
I could just take one and put it in my india-rubber apron pocket, and 
carry it to the boat. I did so, but after rambling a little I thought to 
take it out, and behold, my pocket was filled with its needles, just like 
a caterpillar's bristles. I became considerably annoyed with them; they 
covered my hands, and I have scarcely got rid of them yet. My husband 
would have laughed at me a little, were it not for his own misfortune. He 
thought to discover what kind of mucilage it was by tasting it - cut one 
in two, bit it, and covered his lips completely. We then had to sympathize 
with each other, and were glad to render mutual assistance in a case of 
extermination.

April 2nd, evening, ten o'clock. - We have come on well since we left St. 
Louis. Sailed all night last night, which is a rare thing on this river, 
on account of snags and sandbars. We are now at Jefferson City, about half 
way to Liberty from St. Louis. How long we stop here I do not know - 
perhaps all night.

Monday, 4th. - We passed the wreck of the Steamboat Siam to-day about 
noon. It is indeed a melancholy sight. She was not quite a year old. She 
ran upon a snag and sank, last winter. No lives lost. We stopped to-day at 
Chariton, about an hour. We went on shore and visited a steam sawmill. It 
was quite a curiosity, as well as the great engine that propels the boat 
upon the mighty waters.

Thursday, 7th. - Very pleasant, but cold. This morning the thermometer 
stood at 24 at nine o-clock. I have not seen any snow since we left the 
Allegheny mountains, before the 15th of March. I should like to know about 
the snow in New York. Is it all gone? How did it go, and the consequences? 
Mary, we have had a sick one with us all the way since we joined Dr. 
Satterlee. Mrs. Satterlee has had a very bad cough and cold, which has 
kept her feeble. She is now recovering, and is as well as can be expected. 
The rest of us have been very well, except feeling the effects of drinking 
the river water. I am in exception, however. My health was never better 
than since I have been on the river. I was weighed last week, and came up 
to 136 pounds. I think I shall endure the journey well - perhaps better 
than any of the rest of us. Mrs. Spalding does not look nor feel quite 
healthy enough for our enterprise. Riding affects her differently from 
what it does me. Everyone who sees me compliments me as being the best 
able to endure the journey over the mountains. Sister S. is very 
resolute - no shrinking with her. She possesses much fortitude. I like her 
very much. She wears well upon acquaintance. She is very suitable person 
for Mr. Spalding - has the right temperment to match him. I think we shall 
get along very well together; we have so far. I have such a good place to 
shelter - under my husband's wings. He is so excellent. I love to confide 
in his judgment, and act under him, for it gives me a chance to improve. 
Jane, if you want to be happy get as good a husband as I have got, and be 
a missionary. Mary, I wish you were with us. You would be happy, as I am. 
The way looks pleasant, notwithstanding we are so near encountering the 
difficulties of an unheard-of journey for females. I think it would do 
your health good, as well as Lyman and Brother J.G., too.

This letter is free plunder. Jane, I will write to you again. What I say 
to one, I say to all. I should like to write to each of you, separately, 
but I wish to write so many ways that my time is so occupied that I cannot 
write as much I want to. Since we have been here we have made our tent. It 
is made of bedticking, in a conical form, large enough for us all to sleep 
under - viz.: Mr. Spalding and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, Mr. Gray, 
Richard Tak-ah-too-ah-tis, and John Altz; quite a little family - raised 
with a centerpole and fastened down with pegs, covering a large circle. 
Here we shall live, eat and sleep for the summer to come, at least - 
perhaps longer. Mary, you inquired concerning my beds and bedding. I will 
tell you. We five spread our India-rubber cloth on the ground, then our 
blankets, and encamp for the night. We take plenty of Mackinaw blankets, 
which answer for our bed and bedding, and when we journey place them over 
our saddles and ride on them. I wish you could see our outfit.

I had made for me, in Brother Augustus' shoe store, in Rushville, a pair 
of gentlemen's boots, and from him we supplied ourselves with what shoes 
we wanted. We have each of us a life-preserver, so that if we fall into 
the water we shall not drown. They are made of India-rubber cloth, air-
tight, and when filled with air and placed under the arm will prevent one 
from sinking. Each of us take a plate, knife and fork and a tin cup. Mary, 
when we are under way I will describe the whole proceeding to you. When I 
see it before my eyes I can give a better description, for I shall have a 
better understanding of it. Husband has got me an excellent sidesaddle, 
and a very easy horse. He made me a present of a mule to ride, the other 
day, so I do not know which I shall like best - I have not tried the 
latter, Richard says "That's very bad mule - can't catch buffaloes." That 
is the test with him. An animal's speed makes him good, in his eye. I 
shall write you from Council Bluffs and at every opportunity, especially 
when Mr. Parker returns. We have lately received a letter from Mrs. 
Parker. O, what a spirit it breathed! When we were there she said if we 
could not get a minister to go with us we might keep Mr. Parker until one 
came, if we would only go on, and even now she has given permission for 
him to stay a year longer, and visit another tribe to the south. I wish I 
could show you her letter. You say Brother J.G. and his wife have been to 
Ithaca. Why did he not go when I was there? I had a good visit with Deacon 
and Mrs. Rolla, and a piece of a song, too, but not half enough. He sent 
me the "Missionary's Farewell," by Dr. Satterlee; music, by himself. Alas! 
my husband don't come to-night; the wind has blown so hard that I expect 
he has not been able to cross the river. Brother Gray is with him. I shall 
not feel so anxious about him on that account, so adieu for to-night. It 
is almost ten o'clock, and the family have all gone to rest.

I should like to tell you how the western people talk, if I had room. 
Their language is so singular that I could scarcely understand them, yet 
it was very amusing. In speaking of quantity, they say "heap of man, heap 
of water, she is heap sick", etc. If you ask, "How does your wife today?" 
"O, she is smartly better, I reckon, but she is powerful weak; she has 
been mighty bad. What's the matter with your eye?"


PLATTE RIVER, JUST ABOVE THE FORKS,
JUNE 3RD, 1836.
Dear Sister Harriet and Brother Edward:
Friday eve, six o'clock. We have just encamped for the night near the 
bluffs over against the river. The bottoms are a soft, wet plain, and we 
were obliged to leave the river yesterday for the bluffs. The face of the 
country yesterday afternoon and today has been rolling sand bluffs, mostly 
barren, quite unlike what our eyes have been satiated with for weeks past. 
No timber nearer than the Platte, and the water tonight is very bad - got 
from a small ravine. We have usually had good water precious to this.

Our fuel for cooking since we left timber (no timber except on rivers) has 
been dried buffalo dung; we now find plenty of it and it answers a very 
good purpose, similar to the kind of coal used in Pennsylvania (I suppose 
now Harriet will make up a face at this, but if she was here she would be 
glad to have her supper cooked at any rate in this scarce timber country). 
The present time in our journey is a very important one. The hunter 
brought us buffalo meat yesterday for the first time. Buffalo were seen 
today but none have been taken. We have some for supper tonight. Husband 
is cooking it - no one of the company professes the art but himself. I 
expect it will be very good. Stop - I have so much to say to the children 
that I do not know in what part of my story to begin. I have very little 
time to write. I will first tell you what our company consists of. We are 
ten in number; five missionaries, three Indian boys and two young men 
employed to assist in packing animals.

Saturday, 4th. Good morning, H. and E. I wrote last night till supper; 
after that it was dark I could not see. I told you how many bipeds there 
was in our company last night; now for the quadrupeds: Fourteen horses, 
six mules and fifteen head of cattle. We milk four cows. We started with 
seventeen, but we have killed one calf, and the Fur Company, being out of 
provision, have taken one of our cows for beef. It is usually pinching 
times with the Company before they reach the buffalo. We have had plenty 
because we made ample provision at Liberty. We purchased a barrel of flour 
and baked enough to last us, with killing a calf or two, until we reached 
the buffalo.

The Fur Company is large this year; we are really a moving village - 
nearly 400 animals, with ours, mostly mules, and 70 men. The Fur Company 
have seven wagons drawn by six mules each, heavily loaded, and one cart 
drawn by two mules, which carries a lame man, one of the proprietors of 
the Company. We have two wagons in our company. Mr. and Mrs. S., husband 
and myself ride in one, Mr. Gray and the baggage in the other. Our Indian 
boys drive the cows and Dulin the horses. Young Miles leads our forward 
horses, four in each team. Now E., if you want to see the camp in motion, 
look away ahead and see first the pilot and the captain, Fitzpatrick, just 
before him, next the pack animals, all mules, loaded with great packs; 
soon after you will see the wagons, and in the rear, our company. We all 
cover quite a space. The pack mules always string one after the other just 
like Indians. 

There are several gentlemen in the company who are going over the 
mountains for pleasure. Capt. Steward (Mr. Lee speaks of him in his 
journal - he went over when he did and returned) he is an Englishman and 
Mr. Celam. We had a few of them to tea with us last Monday evening, Capt. 
Fitzpatrick, Stewart, Major Harris and Celam.

I wish I could describe to you how we live so that you can realize it. Our 
manner of living is far preferable to any in the States. I never was so 
contented and happy before neither have I enjoyed such health for years. 
In the morning as soon as the day breaks the first that we hear is the 
words, "Arise! Arise!" - then the mules set up such a noise as you never 
heard, which puts the whole camp in motion. We encamp in a large ring, 
baggage and men, tents and wagons on the outside, and all the animals 
except the cows, which are fastened to pickets, within the circle. This 
arrangement is to accommodate the guard, who stand regularly every night 
and day, also when we are in motion, to protect our animals from the 
approach of Indians, who would steal them. As I said, the mules' noise 
brings every man on his feet to loose them and turn them out to feed.

Now, H. and E., you must think it very hard to have to get up so early 
after sleeping on the soft ground, when you find it hard work to open your 
eyes at seven o'clock. Just think of me - every morning at the word, 
"Arise!" we all spring. While the horses are feeding we get breakfast in a 
hurry and eat it. By this time the words, "Catch up! Catch up," ring 
through the camp for moving. We are ready to start usually at six, travel 
till eleven, encamp, rest and feed, and start again about two; travel 
until six, or before, if we come to a good tavern, then encamp for the 
night.

Since we have been in the prairie we have done all our cooking. When we 
left Liberty we expected to take bread to last us part of the way, but 
could not get enough to carry us any distance. We found it awkward work to 
bake out of doors at first, but we have become so accustomed to it now we 
do it very easily.

Tell mother I am a very good housekeeper on the prairie. I wish she could 
just take a peep at us while we are sitting at our meals. Our table is the 
ground, our table-cloth is an India-rubber cloth used when it rains as a 
cloak; our dishes are made of tin-basins for teacups, iron spoons and 
plates, each of us, and several pans for milk and to put our meat in when 
we wish to set it on the table. Each one carries his own knife in his 
scabbard, and it is always ready to use. When the table things are spread, 
after making our own forks or sticks and helping ourselves to chairs, we 
gather around the table. Husband always provides my seat, and in a way 
that you would laugh to see. It is the fashion of all this country to 
imitate the Turks. Messrs. Dunbar and Allis have supped with us, and they 
do the same. We take a blanket and lay down by the table, and those whose 
joints will let them follow the fashion; others take out some of the 
baggage (I suppose you know that there is no stones in this country' not a 
stone have I seen of any size on the prairie). For my part I fix myself as 
gracefully as I can, sometimes on a blanket, sometimes on a box, just as 
it is convenient. Let me assure you of this, we relish our food none the 
less for sitting on the ground while eating. We have tea and a plenty of 
milk, which is a luxury in this country. our milk has assisted us very 
much in making our bread since we have been journeying. While the Fur 
Company has felt the want of food, our milk has been of great service to 
us; but it was considerable work for us to supply ten persons with bread 
three times a day. We are done using it now. What little flour we have 
left we shall preserve for thickening our broth, which is excellent. I 
never saw any thing like buffalo meat to satisfy hunger. We do not want 
any thing else with it. I have eaten three meals of it and it relishes 
well. Supper and breakfast we eat in our tent. We do not pitch it at noon. 
Have worship immediately after supper and breakfast.

Noon. - The face of the country today has been like that of yesterday. We 
are now about 30 miles above the forks, and leaving the bluffs for the 
river. We have seen wonders this forenoon. Herds of buffalo hove in sight; 
one, a bull, crossed our trail and ran upon the bluffs near the rear of 
the camp. We took the trouble to chase him so as to have a near view. 
Sister Spalding and myself got out of the wagon and ran upon the bluff to 
see him. This band was quite willing to gratify our curiosity, seeing it 
was the first. Several have been killed this forenoon. The Company keep a 
man out all the time to hunt for the camp.

Edward, if I write much more in this way I do not know as you can read it 
without great difficulty. I could tell you much more, but as we are all 
ready to move again, so farewell for the present. I wish you were all here 
with us going to the dear Indians. I have become very much attached to 
Richard Sak-ah-too-ah. 'T is the one you saw at our wedding; he calls me 
mother; I love to teach him - to take care of him, and hear them talk. 
There are five Nez Perces in the company, and when they are together they 
chatter finely. Samuel Temoni, the oldest one, has just come into the camp 
with the skin and some of the meat of a buffalo which he has killed 
himself. He started this forenoon of his own accord. It is what they like 
dearly, to hunt buffalo. So long as we have him with us we shall be 
supplied with meat.

I am now writing backwards. Monday morning. - I begun to say something 
here that I could not finish. Now the man from the mountains has come who 
will take this to the office. I have commenced one to sister Hull which I 
should like to send this time if I could finish it. We have just met him 
and we have stopped our wagons to write a little. Give my love to all. I 
have not told you half of what I want to. We are all in health this 
morning and making rapid progress in our journey. By the 4th of July our 
captain intends to be at the place where Mr. Parker and husband parted 
last fall. We are a month earlier passing here than they were last spring. 
Husband has begun a letter to pa and ma, and since he has cut his finger 
so it troubles him to write to the rest. As this is done in a hurry I 
don't know if you can read it. Tell mother that if I had looked the world 
over I could not have found one more careful and better qualified to 
transport a female such a distance. Husband says, "stop."

Farewell to all.

NARCISSA PRENTISS


ON PLATTE RIVER, 30 MILES ABOVE THE FORKS.
June 4th, 1836.
Dear Father and Mother Prentiss:
You will be anxious to hear from us at this distance and learn our 
situation and progress. We have been greatly blest thus far on our 
journey. We have had various trials, it is true, but they have mostly been 
overruled for our good. Narcissa's health is much improved from what it 
was when she left N.Y. We failed of going from Liberty to Bellevue as was 
expected in the Fur Co's. steamboat. We were waiting at Liberty for the 
boat for some time and though we would go on with our cattle, horses and 
wagons, and let Mr. Allis from the Pawnee agency stay with the ladies and 
go on the boat. Accordingly Messrs. Spalding and Gray went on and I was to 
join them at Cantonment Leavenworth. In the meantime Mrs. Saterlee died 
and boat passed but refused to stop for us. Mr. Spalding wrote me he would 
wait eight miles the other side of garrison until I came up, so that when 
the boat passed I did not send an express as I otherwise should have done, 
but proceeded to hire a team to take us on; but when we arrived at the 
garrison he had crossed the river and gone directly on for Bellevue and 
had been gone for three days, which caused me to have to send an express 
for him, which did not overtake him until they were within forty miles of 
the Platte. I followed with the women and baggage, with a hired team. We 
met out teams the fourth day on their return. From that on we were greatly 
favored with fair weather, never having to encounter any rainstorm or 
serious shower. We have not been once wet even to this time, and we are 
now beyond where the rains fall much in summer.

We had several days delay from my going ahead to see Maj. Dougherty's 
brother, who was very sick and sent for me when he learned I was coming. 
It was Sabbath and we were within 18 miles of the Otto Agency, which is on 
the Platte, where Mr. Dougherty lives. On Monday I sent the man, who came 
for me, after the party, and I went to see Fitzpatrick, the leader of the 
Fur caravan, with whom we were to travel. I found him encamped ready for a 
start on Thursday morning, about twenty-five miles from the Otto Agency. 
When I returned our party had not arrived and did not come until 
Wednesday, the man who was to pilot them having lost his way.

We had great difficulty in crossing the Platte which, together with 
repairs to our wagons, detained us until Saturday noon, May 21st, and he 
(Fitzpatrick) had been gone from Sunday. We felt much doubt about 
overtaking them, but we pushed on, and after ferrying the Horn in a skin 
boat and making a very difficult ford of the Loup, we overtook the Company 
at a few miles below the Pawnee villages on Wednesday evening. We then 
felt that we had been signally blessed, thanked God and took courage. We 
felt it had been of great service to us that we had been disappointed in 
these several particulars, particularly as it tested the ability of our 
ladies to journey in this way. We have since made good progress every day, 
and are now every way well situated, having plenty of good buffalo meat 
and the cordial co-operation of the company with whom we are journeying.

June 6th. - We have just met the men by whom we can send letters and have 
to close without farther particulars or ceremony.

With Christian regards to your family, farewell.

Yours affectionately,

MARCUS WHITMAN


PLATTE RIVER,SOUTH SIDE,
SIX DAYS ABOVE THE FORT LARAMIE FORK,
NEAR THE FOOT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
June 27, 1836.
Dear Brother and Sister Whitman:
We were in perplexity when we left Liberty, but it has been overruled for 
good. I wrote Mother Loomis from the Otoe Agency. We were in still greater 
perplexity there, while crossing our baggage. Husband became so completely 
exhausted with swimming the river on Thursday, May 9th, that it was with 
difficulty he made the shore the last time. Mr. Spalding was sick, our two 
hired men were good for nothing; we could not obtain much assistance from 
the Otoes, for they were away from the village; we had but one canoe, made 
of skins, and that partly eaten by the dogs the night before. We got 
everything over by Friday night. We did not get ready to start until 
Saturday afternoon. By this time the [American Fur] company had four and a 
half days the advance of us. It seemed scarcely possible for us to 
overtake them, we having two more difficult streams to pass, before they 
would pass the Pawnee villages. Behind there we dare not venture more than 
one day. We were at a stand; but with the advice of brethren Merrill and 
Dunbar-missionaries among the Pawnees-after a concert of prayer on the 
subject, we decided to start and go as far as it would be prudent for us. 
Brother Dunbar kindly consented to become our pilot, until we could get 
another. He started with us and came as far as the Elkhorn river, then the 
man Major Dougherty sent for, for us, came up, and Mr. Dunbar returned. We 
had passed the river on Monday morning and taken down the rope, when our 
pilot and his Indian came up. It was with difficulty we crossed him and 
returned Mr. Dunbar. While on the opposite shore, just ready to leave us, 
he called to us to receive his parting advice, with a word of caution 
which will never be forgotten. Our visit with him and Brother Merrill's 
family was indeed refreshing to our thirsty spirits-kindred spirits 
rejoicing in the self denials and labors of missionary life.

The next day, in the morning, we met a large party of Pawnees going to the 
fort to receive their annuities. They seemed to be very much surprised and 
pleased to see white females; many of them had never seen any before. They 
are a noble Indian - large, athletic forms, dignified countenances, 
bespeaking an immortal existence within. When we had said what we wished 
to them, we hurried on, and arrived at the Elkhorn in time to cross all 
our effects.

Here I must tell you how much good Richard, John and Samuel - Pacific 
coast Indian boys whom Dr. Whitman had taken to New York with him the year 
before - did us. They do the most of driving the cattle and loose horses. 
Occasionally husband and myself would ride with them as company and 
encouragement. They came up to the river before us, and seeing a skin 
canoe on the opposite side, they stripped themselves, wound their shirts 
around their heads, and swam over and back again with the canoe by the 
time we came up. We stretched a rope across the river and pulled the goods 
over in the canoe without much difficulty.

Monday and Tuesday we made hard drives - Tuesday especially. We attempted 
to reach the Loup Fork that night, and a part of us succeeded. Those in 
the wagons drove there by 11 o'clock, but it was too much for the cattle. 
There was not water or feed short of this. We rode with Richard and John 
until 9 o'clock, and were all very much fatigued. Richard proposed to us 
to go on and he and John would stay on the prairie with the cattle, and 
drive them in in the morning. We did not like to leave them, and so we 
concluded to stay. Husband had a cup tied to his saddle, in which he 
milked what we wanted to drink; this was our supper. Our saddle blankets, 
with our India rubber cloaks, were our beds. Having offered up our 
thanksgiving for the blessings of the day and seeking protection for the 
night, we committed ourselves to rest. We awoke in the morning much 
refreshed and rode into camp before breakfast - five miles. The Fur 
Company was on the opposite side of the river, which we forded, and, 
without unloading our wagon much, were ready to move again about noon. We 
wished to be with the company when they passed the Pawnee village. This 
obliged us to make a day's drive to the camp in half a day, which was too 
bad for our horses. We did not reach them until 1 o'clock at night.

The next day we passed all their villages. We, especially, were visited by 
them both at noon and at night; we ladies were such a curiosity to them. 
They would come and stand around our tent, peep in, and grin in their 
astonishment to see such looking objects.

Since we came up with the camp, I rode in the wagons most of the way to 
the Black Hills. It is astonishing how well we get along with our wagons 
where there are no roads. I think I may say it is easier traveling here 
than on any turnpike in the States.

On the way to the buffalo country we had to bake bread for ten persons. It 
was difficult at first, as we did not understand working out-doors; but we 
became accustomed to it, so that it became quite easy. June found us ready 
to receive our first taste of buffalo. Since that time I have had but 
little to do with cooking. Not one in our number relishes buffalo meat as 
well as my husband and I. He has a different way for cooking every piece 
of meat. I believe Mother Loomis would give up to him if she were here. We 
have had no bread since. We have meat and tea in the morn, and tea and 
meat at noon. All our variety consists of the different ways of cooking. I 
relish it well and it agrees with me. My health is excellent. So long as I 
have buffalo meat I do not wish anything else. Sister Spaulding is 
affected by it considerably - has been quite sick.

We feel that the Lord has blessed us beyond our most sanguine 
expectations. We wish our friends at home to unite with us in thanksgiving 
and praise for His great mercies to us. We are a month earlier this year 
than husband was last, and the company wish to be at Rendezvous by the 4th 
of July. We have just crossed the river and shall leave here tomorrow 
morning.

Now, Sister Julia, between you and me, I just want to tell you how much 
trouble I have had with Marcus, two or three weeks past. He was under the 
impression that we had too much baggage, and could not think of anything 
so easy to be dispensed with as his own wearing apparel - those shirts the 
ladies made him just before he left home, his black suit and overcoat - 
these were the condemned articles. Sell them he must, as soon as he gets 
to the fort. But first I would not believe him in earnest. All the reasons 
I could bring were of no avail - he still said he must get rid of them. I 
told him to sell all of mine, too; I could do without them better than he 
could. Indeed, I did not wish to dress unless he could. I finally said 
that I would write and get Sister Julia to plead for me, for I knew you 
would not like to have him sell them, better than I should. This was 
enough; he knew it would not do to act contrary to her wishes, and said no 
more about it.

July 16th. - When I wrote this letter I expected to send it immediately, 
but we did not meet the party expected, and have had no opportunity since. 
We are now at the Rocky Mountains, at the encampment of Messrs. McLeod and 
McKay, expecting to leave on Monday morning for Walla Walla. It seems a 
special favor that that company has come to Rendezvous this season; for 
otherwise we would have had to have gone with the Indians a difficult 
route, and so slow that we should have been late at Walla Walla, and not 
have had the time we wanted to make preparations for winter. Husband has 
written the particulars of our arrival, meeting the Indians, etc., to 
Brother Henry.

One particular I will mention, which he did not. As soon as I alighted 
from my horse, I was met by a company of matrons, native women one after 
another shaking hands and saluting me with a most hearty kiss. This was 
unexpected and affected me very much. They gave Sister Spalding the same 
salutation. After we had been seated awhile in the midst of the gazing 
throng, one of the chiefs, whom we had seen before, came with his wife and 
very politely introduced her to us. They say they all like us very much, 
and thank God that they have seen us, and that we have come to live with 
them.

It was truly pleasing to see the meeting of Richard and John with their 
friends. Richard was affected to tears. His father is not here, but 
several of his tribe and brethren are. When they met each took off his hat 
and shook hands, as respectfully as in civilized life. Richard does not 
give up the idea of again seeing Rushville.

Your affection sister,

NARCISSA.


July 18th.
Under the protection of Mr. McLeod and his company we left the Rendezvous 
and came ten miles in a southwesterly direction. The Flatheads and some of 
the Snake Indians accompanied us a short distance. We make but one camp a 
day.

One the 22nd we had a tedious ride, as we traveled till half-past four 
P.M. I thought of mother's bread, as a child would, but did not find it on 
the table, I should relish it extremely well; have been living on buffalo 
meat until I am cloyed with it.

Have been in a peaceful state of mind all day. Had a freedom in prayer for 
my beloved parents; blessed privilege that such a sinner as I may have 
access to a mercy seat, through such a Saviour as Jesus Christ. It is good 
to feel that he is all I want, and all my righteousness; and if I had ten 
thousand lives I would give them all for him. I long to be more like him - 
to possess more of his meek spirit.

25th. - Came fifteen miles to-day; encamped on Smith's creek, a small 
branch of Bear creek. The ride has been very mountainous - paths winding 
on the sides of steep mountains. In some places the path is so narrow as 
scarcely to afford room for the animal to place his foot. One after 
another we pass along with cautious step. Passed a creek on which was a 
fine bunch of gooseberries, nearly ripe.

Husband has had a tedious time with the wagon to-day. It got stuck in the 
creek this morning when crossing, and he was obliged to wade considerably 
in getting it out. After that, in going between the mountains, on the side 
of one, so steep that it was difficult for horses pass, the wagon was 
upset twice; did not wonder at this at all; it was a greater wonder that 
it was not turning somersaults continually. It is not very grateful to my 
feelings to see him wearing out with such excessive fatigue, as I am 
obliged to. He is not as fleshy as he was last winter. All the most 
difficult part of the way he has walked, in laborious attempts to take the 
wagon. Ma knows what my feelings are.

26th. - Did not move camp today. Mr. McKay has been preparing to send out 
trappers from this place. Husband has been sick to-day, and so lame with 
the rheumatism as to be scarcely able to move. It is a great privilege 
that we can lie still to-day on his account, for he needs rest.

27th. - had quite a level route to-day - came down Bear river. Mr. McKay 
sent off about thirty of his men as trappers to-day. Several lodges of 
Indians also left us to go in another direction, and we expect more to 
leave us to-morrow. They wish to go a different route from Mr. McLeod, and 
desire us to go with them; but it would be more difficult and lengthy than 
Mr. McLeod's. We are still in a dangerous country; but our company is 
large enough for safety. Our cattle endure the journey remarkably well. 
They supply us with sufficient milk for our tea and coffee, which is 
indeed a luxury. We are obliged to shoe some of them because of sore feet. 
Have seen no buffalo since we left Rendezvous. Have had no game of any 
kind except a few messes of antelope, which an Indian gave us. We have 
plenty of dried buffalo meat, which we have purchased from the Indians - 
and dry it is for me. It appears so filthy! I can scarcely eat it; but it 
keeps us alive, and we ought to be thankful for it. We have had a few 
meals of fresh fish, also, which we relished well, and have the prospect 
of obtaining plenty in one or two weeks more. Have found no berries; 
neither have I found any of Ma's bread (Girls, do not waste the bread; if 
you knew how well I should relish even the dryest morsel, you would save 
every piece carefully.) Do not think I regret coming. No, far from it; I 
would not go back for a world. I am contented and happy, notwithstanding I 
sometimes get very hungry and weary. Have six week's steady journey before 
us. Feel sometimes as if it were a long time to be traveling. Long for 
rest, but must not murmur.

Feel to pity the poor Indian women, who are continually traveling in this 
manner during their lives, and know no other comfort. They do all the work 
and are the complete slaves of their husbands. I am making some little 
progress in their language; long to be able to converse with them about 
the Saviour.

28th. - Very mountainous all the way to-day; came over another ridge; rode 
from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. We thought yesterday the Indians were all going to 
leave us, except two or three; but not one has. They fear to, on account 
of the Blackfeet tribe, who would destroy them all, if they could. One of 
the axle-trees of the wagon broke to-day; was a little rejoiced, for we 
were in hopes they would leave it, and have no more trouble with it. Our 
rejoicing was in vain for they are making a cart of the back wheels, this 
afternoon, and lashing the fore wheels to it-intending to take it through 
in some shape or other. They are so resolute and untiring in their efforts 
they will probably succeed.

Had some fresh fish for breakfast and some antelope for supper, sent us by 
Mr. McLeod and other friends in camp. Thus the Lord provides, and smoothes 
all our ways for us, giving us strength.

July 29th. - Mr. Gray was quite sick this morning and inclined to fall 
behind. Husband and I rode with him about two hours and a half, soon after 
which he gave out entirely. I was sent on, and soon after husband left him 
to come and get the cart; but I overtook an Indian, who went back and soon 
met husband, and both returned to Mr. Gray. The Indian helped him on his 
horse, got on behind him, supported him in his arms and in this manner 
slowly came into camp. This was welcome relief, and all rejoiced to see 
them come in; for some of us had been riding seven hours, others eight, 
without any nourishment. 

[Next sheet of journal missing, it contained an account of their arrival 
at Fort Hall. Continuing, she says,] We were hospitably entertained by 
Captain Thing, who keeps the fort. It was built by Captain Wyeth, a 
gentleman from Boston, whom we saw at Rendezvous on his way east. Our 
dinner consisted of dry buffalo meat, turnips and fried bread, which was a 
luxury. Mountain bread is simply coarse flour and water mixed and roasted 
or fried in buffalo grease. To one who has had nothing but meat for a long 
time, this relishes well. For tea we had the same, with the addition of 
some stewed service berries.

The buildings of the fort are made of hewed logs, with roofs covered with 
mud brick chimneys and fireplaces also being built of the same; no 
windows, except a square hole in the roof, and in the bastion a few port 
holes large enough for guns only. The buildings were all enclosed in a 
strong log wall. This affords them a place of safety when attacked by 
hostile Indians, as they frequently are, the fort being in the Blackfeet 
country.

Since dinner we visited the garden and corn fields. The turnips in the 
garden appeared thrifty - the tops very large and tall, but the roots 
small. The peas looked small; but most of them had been gathered by the 
mice. Saw a few onions, that were going to seed, which looked quite 
natural. This was all the garden contained. He told us his own did 
extremely well until the 8th of June, when the frost of one night 
completely prostrated it. It has since came up again, but does not look as 
well as it did before. This is their first attempt at cultivation.

The buildings at Fort William, on Laramie Fork of the Platte, are made the 
same, but are larger and more finished than here. Here we have stools to 
sit on - there we had very comfortable chairs, bottomed with buffalo skin. 
Thus you see we have a house of entertainment almost or quite as often as 
Christian of the Pilgrim's Progress did. We expect one more before we get 
to Walla Walla; that is Snake Fort [Boise], belonging to Mr. McKay, who is 
journeying with us.

From this on our company will be small. The Indians all leave us to-day 
except one or two who go with us to assist in driving the cattle - 
Kentuck, who went with Mr. Parker last year, and the chief, Rottenbelly. 
The whole tribe are exceedingly anxious to have us go with them. They use 
every argument they can invent to prevail on us to do so - and not only 
argument but strategy. We all think it not best; we are very much 
fatigued, and wish to get through as soon as possible. To go with them 
would take us two months or more, when now we expect to go to Walla Walla 
in twenty-five days. When we get there rest will be sweet to us; so will 
it be to the Christian when he gets to Heaven. Will father and mother get 
there before I do? If so, then they will be ready to greet me on the 
threshold. Here we have raised our Ebenezer saying, "Hitherto the Lord 
hath helped us." Now we leave it and pass on. Our animals are nearly 
ready. It is now half-past two and we expect to go but a short distance 
and encamp.


Aug. 5th.
Morn; came all of ten miles last evening, and did not arrive here till 
after dark. Mr. McLeod and his company started earlier than we did, 
intending to come but a little way. We could not get ready to come with 
him, and the man who piloted us led us wrong - much out of the way. Those 
on whom we depended to drive cattle disappointed us. Husband and myself 
fell in behind them to assist John Alts, who was alone with them. This 
made us later into camp than the rest of our company. We came through 
several swamps, and all the last part of the way we were so swarmed with 
mosquitoes as to be scarcely able to see - especially while crossing the 
Port Neuf, which we did, just before coming into camp. It is the widest 
river I have forded on horseback. It seemed the cows would run mad for the 
mosquitoes; we could scarcely get them along. Mr. McLeod met us and 
invited us to tea, which was a great favor. Thus blessings gather thick 
around us. We have been in the mountains so long we find the scenery of 
this valley very grateful to the eye - a large stream on my right and one 
on my left, skirted with timber. At Fort Hall was our first sight of Snake 
river. We shall follow the south side of it for many days. We have passed 
many places where the soil is good, and would be fertile if there were 
frequent rains; but usually the country is barren, and would be a sandy 
desert were it not for the sage brush.

Eve. We passed the American Falls on Snake river just after dinner. The 
roar of the water is heard at a considerable distance. We stopped during 
the greatest heat for rest and dinner. Now that the Indians are no longer 
with us we shall expect to make two camps. I expect this to be a great 
mercy to us weak females, for it was more than we could well endure to 
travel during the heat of the day without refreshment.

Aug. 6th. - Route very bad and difficult to-day. We crossed a small stream 
full of falls. The only pass where we could cross was just on the edge of 
rocks above one of the falls. While the pack animals were crossing, both 
ours and the company's, there was such a rush as to crowd two of our 
horses over the falls, both packed with dried meat. It was with great 
difficulty they were got out, one of them having been nearly an hour much 
to his injury. We have a little rice to eat with our dry meat, given us by 
Mr. McLeod, which makes it relish quite well.

Aug. 7th. - Sabbath; came fifteen miles and camped at a fine place, with 
plenty of good grass for our weary animals. Thus are blessings so mingled 
that it seems as if there was nothing else but mercy and blessings all the 
way. Was there ever a journey like this performed where the sustaining 
hand of God has been so manifest every morning. Surely the children of 
Israel could not have been more sensible of the pillar of fire by night 
than we have been of that hand that has led us thus safely on. God had 
heard prayer in our behalf, and even now while I am writing on this holy 
day is the sweet incense of prayer ascending before the throne of Heavenly 
grace. Nor are we forgotten by our beloved churches, at home in the 
prayers of the Sanctuary, we are too sensible of its blessed effects to 
believe otherwise; and oh! how comforting is this thought to the heart of 
the missionary. We love to think and talk of home with such feelings as 
these. It warms our hearts and strengthens and encourages us in the work 
of our beloved Master, and make our journeyings easy.

Aug. 8th, Monday. - Snake river. We have an excellent camp ground to-
night; plenty of feed for our horses and cattle. We think it remarkable 
that our cattle should endure the journey as well as they do. We have two 
suckling calves that appear to be in very good spirits; they suffer some 
from sore feet - otherwise they have come on well and will go through. 
Have come eighteen miles to-day and have taken it so deliberately that it 
has been easy for us. The hunters came in last night well loaded; they had 
been in the mountains two days after game and killed three elk and two 
antelope. This is the first elk meat we have had, and it is the last 
opportunity we expect to have of taking any more game. We are told that 
many have traveled the whole distance from Rendezvous to Walla Walla 
without any fresh meat. We think our will last until we reach the salmon 
fishing at Snake Falls. Thus we are well provided for contrary to our 
expectations. Mr. McLeod has excellent hunters; this is the reason why we 
live so well. There is but little game and that is found at a great 
distance from the route.

11th. - Tuesday and Wednesday have been tedious days, both for man and 
beast - lengthy marches without water; rocky and sandy. Had a present to-
night of a fresh salmon; also a plate of fried cakes from Mr. McLeod. 
(Girls, if you wish to know how they taste you can have pleasure by taking 
a little flour and water, make some dough, and roll it thin, cut it into 
square blocks, then take some beef fat and fry them. You need not put 
either salt or pearlash in your dough.) Believe me, I relish them as well 
as I ever did any made at home. 

12th. - Friday; raised camp this morning at sunrise and came two hours 
ride to the salmon fishery. Found a few lodges of Diggers, of the Snake 
tribe, so called because they live on roots during winter, who had just 
commenced fishing. Obtained some and boiled it for our breakfast. Find it 
good eating; had we been a few days earlier we should not have been able 
to obtain any fish, for they had but just come up. They never go higher 
than these falls and come here every season.

Friday eve. - Dear Harriet, the little trunk you gave me has come with me 
so far, and now I must leave it here alone. Poor little trunk, I am sorry 
to leave thee; thou must abide here alone, and no more by thy presence 
remind me of my dear Harriet. Twenty miles below the falls on Snake river 
this shall be thy place of rest. Farewell, little trunk, I thank thee for 
thy faithful services, and that I have been cheered by thy presence so 
long. Thus we scatter as we go along. The hills are so steep and rocky 
that husband thought it best to lighten the wagon as much as possible and 
take nothing but the wheels, leaving the box with my trunk. I regret 
leaving anything that came from home, especially that trunk, but it is 
best. It would have been better for me not to have attempted to bring any 
baggage whatever, only what was necessary to use on the way. It costs so 
much labor, besides the expense of animals. If I were to make the journey 
again I would make quite different preparations. To pack and unpack so 
many times, and cross so many streams where the packs frequently get wet, 
requires no small amount of labor, besides the injury of the articles. Our 
books, what few we have, have been wet several times. In going from Elmira 
to Williamsport this trunk fell into the creek and wet all my books, and 
Richard's, too, several times. The sleigh box came off and all of us came 
near a wetting likewise. The custom of the country is to possess nothing, 
and then you will lose nothing while traveling. Farewell for the present.

13th. - Saturday; Dear Harriet, Mr. McKay has asked the privilege of 
taking the little trunk along, so that my soliloquy about it last night 
was for naught. However, it will do me no good, it may him. 

We have come fifteen miles and have had the worst route in all the journey 
for the cart. We might have had a better one but for being misled by some 
of the company who started out before the leaders. It was two o'clock 
before we came into camp.

The river is divided by two islands into three branches, and is fordable. 
The packs are placed upon the tops of the highest horses and in this way 
we crossed without wetting. Two of the tallest horses were selected to 
carry Mrs. Spalding and myself over. Mr. McLeod gave me his and rode mine. 
The last branch we rode as much as half a mile in crossing and against the 
current, too, which made it hard for the horses, the water being up to 
their sides. Husband had considerable difficulty in crossing the cart. 
Both cart and mules were turned upside down in the river and entangled in 
the harness. The mules would have been drowned but for a desperate 
struggle to get them ashore. Then after putting two of the strongest 
horses before the cart, and two men swimming behind to steady it, they 
succeeded in getting it across. I once thought that crossing streams would 
be the most dreaded part of the journey. I can now cross the most 
difficult stream without the least fear. There is one manner of crossing 
which husband has tried but I have not, neither do I wish to. Take an elk 
skin and stretch it over you, spreading yourself out as much as possible, 
then let the Indian women carefully put you on the water and with a cord 
in the mouth they will swim and draw you over. Edward, how do you think 
you would like to travel in this way?

15th. - Yesterday Mr. McLeod with most of his men left us, wishing to 
hasten his arrival at Snake Fort, leaving us a pilot and his weakest 
animals to come in with us at our leisure. This is a relief to us, as it 
is difficult to bring our cattle up to the speed they wish to travel. We 
passed the hot springs just before noon, which was quite a curiosity. 
Boiled a bit of dry salmon in one of them in five minutes.

16th. - This eve found plenty of berries called hawthorn on the stream 
where we have encamped. They are large as a cherry and taste much like a 
mealy sweet apple. Our route on this side of Snake river is less hilly and 
difficult than on the south side, and said to be two days shorter.

19th. - Arrived at Snake Fort, Boise, about noon. It is situated on 
Bigwood river, so called because the timber is larger than any to be seen 
this side of the mountains. It consists chiefly of cotton wood and is 
small compared with timber in the states. Snake Fort is owned and built by 
Mr. Thomas McKay, one of our company, whom we expect to leave here. He, 
with Mr. McLeod, gave us a hearty welcome; dined with them. Mr. McLeod was 
ready to leave on the morrow, but said he would stay a day longer to give 
us the opportunity of doing some necessary work, for which we were 
thankful.

20th. - Saturday. Last night I put my clothes in water and this morning 
finished washing before breakfast. This is the third time I have washed 
since I left home-once at Fort Williams and once at Rendezvous. Mr. McLeod 
called this evening to see if we were ready to leave. He observed we had 
been so engaged in labor as to have no time for rest, and proposed for 
ourselves to remain over Sabbath. This I can assure you was a favor for 
which we can never be too thankful, for our souls need the rest of the 
Sabbath as well as our bodies. 

21st. - Sabbath. Rich with heavenly blessings has the day of rest been to 
my soul. Mr. Spalding was invited to preach in the Fort at 11 o'clock. The 
theme was the character of the blessed Savior. All listened with good 
attention.

22d. - Left the Fort yesterday; came a short distance to the crossing of 
Snake river, crossed and encamped for the night. The river had three 
branches, divided by islands, as it was when we crossed before. The first 
and second places were very deep, but we had no difficulty in crossing on 
horseback. The third was deeper still; we dare not venture horseback. This 
being a fishing post of the Indians, we easily found a canoe, made of 
rushes and willows, on which we placed ourselves and our saddles (Sister 
Spalding and myself), when two Indians on horseback, each with a rope 
attached to the canoe, towed us over. (O! if father and mother and the 
girls could have seen us in our snug little canoe, floating on the water.) 
We were favorites of the company. No one else was privileged with a ride 
on it. I wish I could give you a correct idea of this little bark. It is 
simply bunches of rushes tied together, and attached to a frame made of a 
few sticks of small willows. It was just large enough to hold us and our 
saddles. Our baggage was transported on the top of our tallest horses, 
without wetting.

As for the wagon, it is left at the Fort, and I have nothing to say about 
crossing it at this time. Five of our cattle were left there also, to be 
exchanged for others at Walla Walla. Perhaps you will wonder why we have 
left the wagon, having taken it so nearly through. Our animals were 
failing, and the route in crossing the Blue Mountains is said to be 
impassable for it. We have the prospect of obtaining one in exchange at 
Vancouver. If we do not we shall send for it, when we have been to so much 
labor in getting it thus far. It is a useful article in the country.

Now, for Edward's amusement, and that he may know how to do when he comes 
over the Rocky Mountains, I will tell how we got the cattle over the 
rivers. Our two Indian boys, Richard and John, have had the chief 
management of driving them all the way, and are to be commended for the 
patience they have manifested. They have had some one or two to help 
usually, but none so steady drivers as themselves. When a stream is to be 
crossed, where it is necessary for the animals to swim, Richard comes back 
after the cows. Having obtained consent he rides over, accompanied by his 
fellow drivers, all stripped to the shirt. Then they return with their 
horses, if the stream is wide and difficult. If not they leave their 
horses, tie their shifts over their heads, swim back, collect the cows and 
drive them through, all swimming after them. If the stream is very wide, 
and they return with their horses, they drive them swimming on the horses 
behind them. This saves them from the too great fatigue of swimming for 
the river twice. They love to swim, as they love to eat, and by doing so 
have saved me many an anxious feeling, for the relief it has given my 
husband many times. In this case all the horses and mules were driven 
across likewise. Usually the best Indian swimmer was selected and mounted 
the horse that was good for leading to go before the animals as a guide, 
while many others swim after them to drive them over. When once under way, 
such a snorting and halloaing you never heard. At the same time you can 
see nothing save so many heads floating upon the water. Soon they gain the 
opposite shore, triumphantly ascend its banks, shake themselves, and 
retire to their accustomed employment. 

26th. - Friday. On account of our worn out cattle and horses, it was 
thought best to separate from Mr. McLeod's party, at least some of us, and 
travel more deliberately. Two mules and a horse have almost entirely given 
out. It is necessary that some of our party go to Vancouver immediately 
for supplies and see Mr. Parker before he leaves. It was thought best for 
my husband and Mr. Gray to go. As Mr. McLeod intended to make but a day's 
stop at Walla Walla, we came on with him, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, 
the hired men, with most of our baggage, and the Nez Perce chief, 
Rottenbelly, to pilot them in. We parted from them about 3 o'clock and 
came as far as the Lone Tree. The place called Lone Tree is a beautiful 
valley in the region of Powder river, in the center of which is a solitary 
tree, quite large, but the side of which travellers usually stop and 
refresh themselves. We left our tent for Mrs. Spalding, as we expect to be 
out only a few nights, while she might be out many. Mr. McLeod kindly 
offered his for my use and when I arrived in camp found it pitched and in 
readiness for me. This was a great favor as the wind blew quite hard and 
the prospect was for a cool night.

August 27th. - Came in sight of the hill that leads to the Grande Ronde. 
This morning Mr. McLeod remained behind in pursuit of game, and did not 
come into camp until we had made a long nooning, although we had begun to 
feel a little concerned about him, yet about 3 o'clock he came into camp 
loaded with wild ducks, having taken twenty-two. Now, mother, he had just, 
as he always did during the whole journey, sent over nine of them. Here 
also, Richard caught fresh salmon, which made us another good meal, and if 
we had been out of provisions we might have made dinner upon the fresh-
water clams, for the river was full of them.

Girls, how do you think we manage to rest ourselves every noon, having no 
house to shelter us from the scorching heat, or sofa on which to recline? 
Perhaps you think we always encamp in the shade of some thick wood. Such a 
sight I have not seen, lo, these many weeks. If we can find a few small 
willows or a single lone tree, we think ourselves amply provided for. But 
often our camping places are in some open plain and frequently a sand 
plain, but even here is rest and comfort. My husband, who is one of the 
best the world ever knew, is always ready to provide a comfortable shade, 
with one of our saddle-blankets spread upon some willows or sticks placed 
in the ground. Our saddles, fishamores and the other blankets placed upon 
the ground constitute our sofa where we recline and rest until dinner is 
ready. How do you think you would like this? Would you not think a seat by 
mother, in some cool room preferable? Sometimes my wicked heart has been 
disposed to murmur, thinking I should have no rest from the heat when we 
stopped, but I have always been reproved for it by the comfort and rest 
received. Under the circumstances I have never wished to go back. Such a 
thought never finds a place in my heart. "The Lord is better to us than 
our fears." I always find it so.