Travels in the Interior of America - Pages 70-112 



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In half an hour after the storm commenced, we had nothing more to fear 
from it, excepting the cold occasioned by the torrents that fell on us. At 
the approach of morning the rain ceased: we saw a few stars, and with joy 
noticed the first appearances of day. We arose, and wrung the water out of 
our blankets, and finding ourselves very much benumbed, we walked about to 
restore the circulation: when it was sufficiently light, we put our rifles 
in order, which was attended with considerable difficulty, as our hands 
were almost without sensation. Having arranged our arms, we set out, but 
were extremely uncomfortable, as our clothes, being made of dressed skins, 
stuck so close to our bodies as to make our march very unpleasant. We 
proceeded at a brisk pace to warm ourselves, and in about two hours came 
to a small ridge, which we ascended, and when near the top, Guardépée 
preceded us, to examine if any game was in sight. He gave the signal for 
us to remain quiet and soon afterwards fired at two buffalo cows, with 
their calves. One of the cows he wounded, and they ran off with so much 
speed, that the calves could not keep up with them. Perceiving this, I 
immediately pursued the calves, one of which I killed. The rest of the 
party followed the cows for a short distance, but finding the inutility of 
it, they soon returned: and notwithstanding my remonstrances, Guardépée 
killed the other calf. As we had eaten

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but little the day before, we were very glad of this supply, and taking 
what we thought proper, proceeded on our journey. We soon began to 
perceive that the face of the country was changing in its appearance. From 
the Elk Horn River, our course had hitherto been over a most beautiful 
prairie, with scarcely a tree or shrub, but covered with grass and 
flowers: we now began to observe a more broken country to the eastward, 
and some scattered bushes in the valleys. From an eminence, we soon after 
perceived a hill, that had a heap of stones on the summit: Mr. Crooks 
assured me that this was the monument of Blackbird(14), the famous

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Maha chief, and that it was one of the bluffs of the Missouri: we judged 
it was about fifteen miles N. E. of us. Satisfied that we were now near 
the boats, and having arrived at some small timber, where we could procure 
fuel, we dined on our veal; and although without bread or salt it was to 
us a luxury, as we had long been unaccustomed to those articles. We halted 
about three hours before sunset, at about five miles from the monument of 
Blackbird, to which place Mr. Crooks despatched Guardépée to look for a 
letter, as Mr. Hunt had promised to leave one there on passing

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the place. At night he returned, but without a letter, and we concluded 
that the boats had not yet arrived.

11 th.- We set off early, and soon fell in with the trace from the Maha 
village to the monument : along this we travelled, and about ten o'clock 
arrived at the town, where we met one of the Canadians belonging to the 
boats. He informed us that they arrived the day before, and were stationed 
about four miles from the village. As we were in want of food, we did not 
stop, but proceeded to the boats, where we found a considerable number of 
Indians assembled to trade. They gave jerked buffalo meat, tallow, corn, 
and marrow; and in return they received tobacco in carottes, vermillion, 
blue beads, &c. There, also, we found Mr. James Aird, an old and 
respectable trader, with whom I had become acquainted at St. Louis. He 
informed me that he should go to the United States in a few days; I 
therefore availed myself of this opportunity to forward letters, and was 
employed in writing until the 12th at noon. Immediately after, I set out 
on an excursion to the bluffs, and in my way passed through the village, 
where the great number of children playing about the lodges, entirely 
naked, drew my attention. I soon attracted their notice also, and they 
began to collect around me. Some of the

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boldest ventured to touch my hand, after which they ran back a few paces, 
but soon again resumed their courage. When about fifty or sixty had 
assembled, I came to where three young squaws were repairing one of the 
stages erected for the purpose of exposing the buffalo skins to dry, 
whilst they are in preparation. The squaws, seeing the children run after 
me, spoke to them in a commanding tone, when they instantly stopped, and 
not one followed me afterwards. I doubt much if such a crowd of children, 
in any European city, would have obeyed with such promptness, had such a 
phenomenon appeared among them, as they must have considered me. On 
arriving at the summit of the bluffs, I had a fine view of the town below. 
It had a singular appearance. The frame work of the lodges consists of ten 
or twelve long poles, placed in the periphery of a circle of about sixteen 
feet in diameter, and are inclined towards each other, so as to cross at a 
little more than half their length from the bottom; and the tops diverging 
with the same angle, exhibit the appearance of one cone inverted on the 
apex of another. The lower cone is covered with dressed buffalo skins, 
sewed together, and fancifully painted; some with an undulating red or 
yellow band, of ten or twelve inches in breadth, surrounding the lodge at 
half its height; in others, rude figures of horses, buffaloe or deer were 
painted; others again with attempts

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at the human face, in a circle, as the moon is sometimes painted; these 
were not less than four feet in diameter. I judged there were not fewer 
than eighty lodges. I did not remain long on the summit of the bluffs, as 
I perceived, from the heaps of earth, some of these recent, that it was 
the burial ground, and I knew the veneration they have for the graves of 
their ancestors. I proceeded along the bluffs, and was very successful in 
my researches, but had not been long employed, when I saw an old Indian 
galloping towards me. He came up and shook hands with me, and pointing to 
the plants I had collected, said, "Bon pour manger?" to which I replied, 
"Ne pas bon." He then said, "Bon pour medicine?" I replied "Oui." He again 
shook hands and rode away, leaving me somewhat surprised at being 
addressed in French by an Indian. On my return through the village, I was 
stopped by a group of squaws, who invited me very kindly into their 
lodges, calling me wakendaga, or as it is pronounced, wa-ken-da-ga 
(physician.) I declined accepting their invitation, showing them that the 
sun was near setting, and that it would be night before I could reach the 
boats. They then invited me to stay all night: this also I declined, but 
suffered them to examine my plants, for all of which I found they had 
names. On my way to the boats, I met a number of Indians returning to the 
village, all of whom shook

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hands with me. Two of them informed me that they had seen me at St. Louis, 
and at the same time gave me satisfactory proofs of it(15). I did not 
reach the boats until it was dark.

13th.- In the forenoon of this day, Mr. Hunt was waited upon by two 
chiefs, who were contending for the sanction of the government of the 
United States, to determine their claim to kingly power. Mr. Hunt declined 
interfering, not being vested with the powers to act. The names of these 
two chiefs were the Big Elk and the White Cow, the former of whom 
ultimately succeeded, and has since signalized himself by a fine specimen 
of Indian eloquence, at the funeral of a Sioux chief, in the

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Missouri territory(16). The Mahas seem very friendly to the whites, and 
cultivate corn, beans, melons, squashes, and a small species of tobacco 
(nicotiana rustica.) In 1802 they were visited by the small-pox, which 
made dreadful havoc, and destroyed at least two thirds of the whole 
nation. At present they muster nearly two hundred warriors, and from the 
great number of children, I judge that they are again increasing. In 
stature they are much inferior to the Osages, although I noticed several 
whom I thought would reach to six feet. Their hunting ground is from their 
village to L'Eau qui Court, and along that river.

14th.- This day three Sioux Indians arrived, of the Yanktoon Alma tribe, 
who reported that several nations of the Sioux were assembling higher up 
the river, with an intention to oppose our progress. This news was 
concealed as much as possible from the voyageurs, and we prepared for our 
departure on the following morning.

15th.- We embarked early, and passed Floyd's Bluffs, so named from a 
person of the name of Floyd (one of Messrs. Lewis and Clarke's party) 
having been buried there. In the course of this day, I was informed by Mr. 
M'Kenzie, that in the night of the

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7th instant, during our journey to the Ottoes, eleven Sioux Indians, who 
had given or devoted their clothes to the medicine(17), ran into the camp 
with their tomahawks in their hands, and were instantly surrounded and 
taken prisoners. The leader, finding the party on their guard, and much 
stronger probably than he expected, immediately cried out to his followers 
in their language, " My children, do not hurt the white people." As the 
party were fully apprized of the murderous intentions of these miscreants, 
the general voice was for putting them to death; but Mr. Hunt would not 
consent to it, and ordered that they should be conveyed over the river in 
one of the boats, at the same time informing them, that if they were again 
caught by the party, every man should be sacrificed. From a coincidence of 
time and circumstances, it appeared almost certain that it was this party 
that had crossed the Missouri, near the mouth of the river Platte, in the 
canoe of which we saw the skeleton on the 28th of April; and that it was 
also this party that was discovered by Rogers

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hovering about the Otto village, as the Sioux are at war with the Ottoes: 
it therefore appeared that Mr. Crooks and myself had run a greater risk 
than we were sensible of at the time.

16th, 17th, and 18th.- We had a fair wind, and made considerable progress 
up the river; few opportunities were therefore afforded for walking. I 
regretted this circumstance, as the bluffs had a very interesting 
appearance. During a short excursion, I was enabled to ascertain that the 
lower part of the bluffs was impregnated with sulphur, mixed with sulphate 
of iron and selenite crystals.

19th.- About nine o'clock we observed three buffalo cows and a calf 
swimming across the river. Two of them and the calf were killed; but we 
found them to be so poor that we only preserved the calf.

20th.- We were stopped all day by a strong head wind. I availed myself of 
this circumstance, and was very successful in my researches. We found that 
the river was rising rapidly; it rose during this day more than three 
feet: we therefore concluded that this was the commencement of the annual 
flood of the Missouri, occasioned by the melting of the snow on the Rocky 
Mountains.

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21st.-The river continued to rise, and the current to increase in 
rapidity: the navigation was therefore rendered very difficult. I walked 
the greatest part of the day, chiefly on the bluffs, and found the summits 
for the most part covered with gravel, containing tumblers of feldspar, 
granite, and some porphyry.

22d.- In the morning our hunters killed three buffaloe and two elks on an 
island; and as we were now arriving at the country of our enemies, the 
Sioux, it was determined that they should in a great measure confine 
themselves to the islands, in their search for game. We dined at the 
commencement of a beautiful prairie; afterwards I went to the bluffs, and 
proceeded along them till near evening. On regaining the bank of the 
river, I walked down to meet the boats, but did not find them until a 
considerable time after it was dark, as they had stopped early in the 
afternoon, having met with a canoe, in which were two hunters of the names 
of Jones and Carson, who had been two years near the head of the Missouri. 
These men agreed to join the party, and were considered as a valuable 
acquisition; any accession of strength being now desirable. This day, for 
the first time, I was much annoyed by the abundance of the prickly pear. 
Against the thorns of this plant I found that

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mockasons are but a slight defence. I observed two species, cactus opuntia 
and mamillaris.

23d.- When on the bluffs yesterday, I observed in the river an extensive 
bend, and determined to travel across the neck. I therefore did not embark 
with the boats, but filled my shot pouch with parched corn, and set out, 
but not without being reminded by Mr. Hunt that we were now in an enemy's 
country. In about two hours I had entirely passed the range of hills 
forming the boundary of the Missouri; and as I had before experienced, I 
found the soil and face of the country to improve very much as we proceed 
from the river. The hills here are only gentle swellings, and, together 
with the intervening valleys, were covered with the most beautiful 
verdure. At a small distance from my route I noticed a space, of several 
acres in extent, of a more vivid green than the surrounding prairie, and 
on my nearer approach it had the appearance of a rabbit burrow. From the 
previous descriptions given by the hunters, I immediately conceived it to 
be, what it proved, a colony of the prairie dog.(18) The little animals 
had taken the alarm before I reached their settlement, and were sitting 
singly on the small hillocks of earth at the

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mouth of their holes. They were very clamorous uttering a cry which had 
some resemblance to a shrill barking. I fired at several, but at the 
instant of the flash, they darted with surprising quickness into their 
holes, before the shot could reach them. I soon found the impossibility of 
procuring one with shot only, as unless they are instantaneously killed, 
they are certain to get into their holes, from the edges of which they 
never wander if a man is in sight. I continued to travel through this 
charming country till near the middle of the afternoon, when I again came 
to the bluffs of the Missouri, where, amongst a number of new plants, I 
found a fine species of ribes, or currant. As it was now time to look for 
the boats, I went to the river and proceeded down the bank, in the 
expectation of meeting them. I had probably travelled about two miles, 
when suddenly I felt a hand laid upon my shoulder, and turning round, saw 
a naked Indian with his bow bent, and the arrow pointed towards me. As I 
had no expectation of meeting any Indians excepting the Sioux, and as with 
them the idea of danger was associated, I took my gun from my shoulder, 
and by a kind of spontaneous movement put my hand towards the lock, when I 
perceived that the Indian drew his bow still farther. I now found myself 
completely in his power; but recollecting that if an enemy, he would have 
shot me before I saw him, I held out my hand, which he

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took, and afterwards laid his hand on my breast, and in the Osage language 
said "Moi-he ton-ga de-ah," literally in English, "Big Knife you ?"(19) 
which I luckily understood and answered, "Hoya," (Yes) and laying my hand 
on his breast, said, "Nodo-wessie de-ah," (Sioux you.) He replied, 
"Honkoska ponca we ah.." (No, Poncar me.) He then pointed up the river, 
and I saw two other Indians running towards us, and not more than fifty 
yards distant. They soon came up, and all the three laid hold of me, 
pointing over the bluffs, and making signs that I should go with them. I 
resisted and pushed off their hands. As the river had overflowed where we 
stood, I pointed to a sand-hill a Small distance from us, to which we went 
and sat down. I amused them with my pocket compass for some time, when 
they again seized me, and I still resisted, and took out a small 
microscope. This amused them for some time longer, when on a sudden one of 
them leaped up and gave the war whoop. I laid hold of my gun, with an 
intention to defend myself, but was instantly relieved from apprehension 
by his pointing down the river, and I perceived the mast of one of the 
boats appear over the willows. The Indians seemed very much inclined to 
run away, but I invited them to accompany me to

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the boats, and shewed them by signs that I would give them something to 
drink, which they complied with, but soon after disappeared. We travelled 
very late this evening, and encamped above the mouth of a small creek. It 
appeared that the three Indians went to inform their nation, as in the 
morning a number of them came to our camp and also a white man, with a 
letter to Mr. Hunt from Mr. Lisa, one of the Missouri Fur Company, for 
whom he was agent. Mr. Lisa had arrived at the Mahas some days after we 
left, and had dispatched this man by land. It appeared he had been 
apprised of the hostile intentions of the Sioux, and the purport of the 
letter was to prevail on Mr. Hunt to wait for him, that they might, for 
mutual safety, travel together on that part of the river which those blood 
thirsty savages frequent. It was judged expedient to trade with the 
Indians for some jerked buffalo meat, and more than 1000 lbs. was obtained 
for as much tobacco as cost two dollars. About noon we set out, and at the 
distance of a league passed the mouth of the river called L'Eau qui Court, 
or Rapid River.

25th.- It was discovered early this morning, that two men who had engaged 
at the Mahas, and had received equipments to a considerable value, had 
deserted in the night. As it was known that one of them could not swim, 
and we had passed a

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large creek about a league below, our party went in pursuit of them, but 
without success.

26th.- Whilst at breakfast on a beautiful part of the river, we observed 
two canoes descending on the opposite side. In one, by the help of our 
glasses, we ascertained there were two white men, and in the other only 
one. A gun was discharged, when they discovered us, and crossed over. We 
found them to be three men belonging to Kentucky, whose names were 
Robinson, Hauberk, and Reesoner. They had been several years hunting on 
and beyond the Rocky Mountains, until they imagined they were tired of the 
hunting life; and having families and good plantations in Kentucky, were 
returning to them; but on seeing us, families, plantations, and all 
vanished; they agreed to join us, and turned their canoes adrift. We were 
glad of this addition to our number, as the Poncars had confirmed all that 
we had heard respecting the hostile disposition of the Nodowessies, or 
Sioux, towards us, with the additional information, that five nations or 
tribes had already assembled, with a determination to cut us off . 
Robinson was sixty-six years of age, and was one of the first settlers in 
Kentucky. He had been in several engagements with the Indians there, who 
really made it to the first settlers, what its name imports, "The Bloody 
Ground." In one of these engagements he was

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scalped, and has since been obliged to wear a handkerchief on his head to 
protect the part. The wind being fair, we this day made considerable 
progress, and had many fine views of the bluffs, along which, from the 
L'Eau qui Court, we observed excellent roads made by the buffaloes. These 
roads I had frequent opportunities of examining, and am of opinion that no 
engineer could have laid them out more judiciously.

27th.- The weather continues fine, as it has been for the last fortnight, 
and is delightful. For some days past it has been very warm, and the 
carcases of drowned buffaloes on the islands and shores of the river 
become extremely offensive. We had a fine breeze from the S. E. and made 
all the sail the extreme cowardice of our Canadians would permit, in order 
to reach Little Cedar Island(20), as it was intended that we should stop 
there to procure new masts, some of our old ones being defective. Late in 
the evening we accomplished our purpose to the joy of our voyageurs, who 
frequently in the course of the day, when the boats heeled, cried out in 
agony, " 0 mon Dieu! abattez le goile. " As we had now in our party five 
men who had traversed the Rocky Mountains in various directions,

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the best possible route in which to cross them became a subject of anxious 
enquiry. They all agreed that the route followed by Lewis and Clarke was 
very far from being the best, and that to the southward, where the head 
waters of the Platte and Roche Jaune rivers rise, they had discovered a 
route much less difficult. This information induced Mr. Hunt to change his 
plan, which had originally been to ascend the Missouri to the Roche Jaune 
river, one thousand eight hundred and eighty miles from the mouth, and at 
that place to commence his journey by land. It was now concluded that it 
would be more adviseable to abandon the Missouri at the Aricara Town, four 
hundred and fifty miles lower down the river.

28th.- We arose at day-break, and the men soon found trees suitable for 
masts. Whilst they were preparing them, I employed myself in examining 
this delightful spot. The island is about three quarters of a mile in 
length, and five hundred yards in width. The middle part is covered with 
the finest cedar, round which there is a border from sixty to eighty yards 
in width, in which were innumerable clumps of rose and currant bushes, 
mixed with grape vines, all in flower, and extremely fragrant. The currant 
is a new and elegant species, and is described

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by Pursh(21) as ribes aureum. Betwixt the clumps and amongst the cedars, 
the buffaloes, elks, and antelopes had made paths, which were covered with 
grass and flowers. I have never seen a place, however embellished by art, 
equal to this in beauty. In a few hours the masts were completed, and we 
proceeded on our voyage with a fine breeze in our favour. Since our 
departure from L'Eau qui Court I noticed that the bluffs had gradually 
continued to change in appearance. The quantity of alluvion on the border 
of the river decreased as we proceeded, and has now entirely vanished. The 
bluffs continue in a regular declivity from their summits to the edge of 
the river, and the narrowness of the valley indicates a country formed of 
such hard materials as to oppose considerable resistance to the abrasion 
of the river. On these bluffs, and at about half the distance from the 
summit to the river, I began to notice a number of places of a deep brown 
colour, apparently divested of vegetation. They occurred on both sides of 
the river, with an exact correspondence in altitude and breadth, and 
exhibited the appearance of two interrupted lines running as far as the 
bluffs could be seen. As we were now in an enemy's country, it

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was with reluctance Mr. Hunt suffered me to land a little before dinner, 
when I proceeded to examine one of these spots. I found it almost entirely 
covered with iron ore, of that species called by Kirwan compact iron 
stone; in Waller Syst. 2, p. 144, haematitis solidus. Its specific gravity 
is 3.482. The oxidation of the ore had so changed the earth, that it 
resembled Spanish brown, and nothing grew on it but a few scattered shrubs 
of a species of artemisia, apparently a non-descript. I hastened to the 
boats, in which we kept our sails up the rest of the day, the bodies of 
ore becoming longer and more frequent as we proceeded. We travelled 
eighteen miles, and encamped one hour after sunset.

29th.- Some arrangements being necessary, the boats did not set out so 
early as usual, and daylight opened to our view one of the most 
interesting prospects I had ever seen. We had encamped at the commencement 
of a stretch of the river, about fifteen miles in length, as we judged, 
and nearly in a right line. The bluffs on both sides formed, as before, a 
gentle slope to the river, and not a single tree was visible. The body of 
iron ore had now become continuous on both sides of the river, and 
exhibited the appearance of two dark brown stripes, about one hundred 
yards in breadth, and fifteen miles long. The exact conformity of the two 
lines, and the contrast of colour produced

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by the vivid green which bounded them, formed a coup d'oeil which I have 
never seen paralleled. I lamented much that the wind was fair, but availed 
myself of the short delay, and hastened up the bluff to the vein of ore, 
where, although the soil was so strongly impregnated with iron as to 
resemble rust, I observed a number of large white flowers on the ground, 
belonging to a new species of aenothera, having neither stem nor scape, 
the flower sitting immediately on the root. On a signal being given from 
the boats, I was obliged to return, and had no further opportunity to 
examine this enormous body of ore, without doubt sufficient to supply the 
whole of North America with iron for thousands of years: and if we combine 
in the same view the abundance of coal on the Missouri, it warrants a 
presumption that in some future age it will become an object of vast 
national importance.

30th.- We set out this morning with a favourable wind, which continued 
during the whole of the day; and the course of the river being less 
crooked than usual, we made thirty miles, and slept on an island.

31st.- Before breakfast this morning we discovered two Indians on a bluff 
on the north-east side of the river: we stopped opposite to them to 
breakfast, during which they frequently harangued

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us in a loud tone of voice. After we had breakfasted, Mr. Hunt crossed the 
river to speak to them, and took with him Dorion, the interpreter. We 
noticed, that when he landed, one of the Indians went away, but 
immediately after re-appeared on horseback, and went at full speed over 
the bluffs. Mr. Hunt informed us on his return, that these Indians 
belonged to the Sioux nations; that three tribes were encamped about a 
league from us, and had two hundred and eighty lodges. They were the 
Yangtons Ahnah, the Tetons Bois Brule, and the Tetons Min-na-kine-azzo. 
The Indian informed Mr. Hunt that they had been waiting for us eleven 
days, with a decided intention of opposing our progress, as they would 
suffer no one to trade with the Ricaras, Mandans, and Minaterees, being at 
war with those nations. It is usual to reckon two warriors to each lodge; 
we therefore found that we had to oppose near six hundred savages, with 
the character of whom we were well acquainted;(22)

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and it had also been stated by the Indian that they were in daily 
expectation of being joined by two other tribes, Tetons Okandandas and 
Tetons Sahone. We proceeded up the river, and passed along an island, 
which for about half an hour intercepted our view of the northeast side of 
the river. On reaching the upper point we had a view of the bluffs, and 
saw the Indians pouring down in great numbers, some on horseback, and 
others on foot. They soon took possession of a point a little above us, 
and ranged themselves along the bank of the river. By the help of our 
glasses, we could perceive that they were all armed and painted for war. 
Their arms consisted chiefly of bows and arrows, but a few had short 
carbines: they were also provided with round shields. We had an ample 
sufficiency of arms for the whole party, which

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now consisted of sixty men; and besides our small arms, we had a swivel 
and two howitzers. Any attempt to avoid the Indians would have been 
abortive, as a boat, in ascending the Missouri, can only effect it by 
going along the edges of the river, it being wholly impossible to stem the 
middle current; and as the banks are in many places high and 
perpendicular, we must inevitably be frequently in their power, as they 
might several times in the course of a day shower a volley of arrows upon 
us, and retire unseen. Our alternative, therefore, was, as we supposed, 
either to fight them or return. The former was immediately decided on, and 
we landed nearly opposite to the main body. Our first care was to put all 
the arms in complete order: afterwards the swivel and the howitzers were 
loaded with powder only, and fired to impress them with an idea that we 
were well prepared. They were then heavily loaded, and with as many 
bullets as it was supposed they would bear, after which we crossed the 
river. When we arrived within about one hundred yards of them, the boats 
were stationed, and all seized their arms. The Indians now seemed to be in 
confusion, and when we rose up to fire, they spread their buffaloe robes 
before them, and moved them from side to side. Our interpreter called out, 
and desired us not to fire, as the action indicated, on their part, a wish 
to avoid an engagement, and to

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come to a parley. We accordingly desisted, and saw about fourteen of the 
chiefs separate themselves from the crowd who were on the summit of the 
bank, and descend to the edge of the river, where they sat down on the 
sand, forming themselves into a portion of a circle, in the centre of 
which we could see preparations making to kindle a fire, evidently with a 
design to smoke the calumet with us, and signs were made, inviting us to 
land. Mr. Hunt requested that Messrs. Crooks, M'Kenzie, Miller, and 
M'Clellan would attend him in his boat, and I accompanied Mr. M'Kenzie. 
The object was to consider whether it was advisable to put so much 
confidence in so ferocious and faithless a set, as to accept the 
invitation. It did not require much deliberation, as we found ourselves 
under the necessity of either fighting or treating with them; it was 
therefore determined to hazard the experiment of going ashore. The party 
who remained in the boats were ordered to continue in readiness to fire on 
the Indians instantly, in case of treachery, and Messrs. Hunt, M'Kenzie, 
Crooks, Miller, and M'Clellan, with the interpreter and myself, went 
ashore. We found the chiefs sitting where they had first placed 
themselves, as motionless as statues; and without any hesitation or delay, 
we sat down on the sand in such a manner as to complete the circle. When 
we were all seated, the pipe was

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brought by an Indian, who seemed to act as priest on this occasion: he 
stepped within the circle, and lighted the pipe. The head was made of a 
red stone, known by mineralogists under the term of killas, and is often 
found to accompany copper ore: it is procured on the river St. Peter's, 
one of the principal branches of the Mississippi. The stem of the pipe was 
at least six feet in length, and highly decorated with tufts of horse 
hair, dyed red. After the pipe was lighted, he held it up towards the sun, 
and afterwards pointed it towards the sky in different directions.

He then handed it to the great chief, who smoked a few whiffs, and taking 
the head of the pipe in his hand, commenced by applying the other end to 
the lips of Mr. Hunt, and afterwards did the same to every one in the 
circle. When this ceremony was ended, Mr. Hunt rose, and made a speech in 
French, which was translated as he proceeded into the Sioux language, by 
Dorion. The purport of the speech was to state, that the object of our 
voyage up the Missouri was not to trade; that several of our brothers had 
gone to the great salt lake in the west, whom we had not seen for eleven 
moons; that we had come from the great salt lake in the east, on our way 
to see our brothers, for whom we had been crying ever since they left us; 
and our lives were now become so miserable for the want of our brothers, 
that we would rather die than not go to

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them, and would kill every man that should oppose our passage: that we had 
heard of their design to prevent our passage up the river, but we did not 
wish to believe it, as we were determined to persist, and were, as they 
might see, well prepared to effect our purpose; but as a proof of our 
pacific intentions, we had brought them a present of tobacco and corn. 
About fifteen carrottes of tobacco, and as many bags of corn, were now 
brought from the boat, and laid in a heap near the great chief, who then 
rose and began a speech, which was repeated in French by Dorion. He 
commenced by stating that they were at war with the Ricaras, Mandans, and 
Gros Ventres or Minaterees, and that it would be an injury to them if 
these nations were furnished with arms and ammunition; but as they found 
we were only going to our brothers, they would not attempt to stop us: 
that he also had brothers at a considerable distance northward, whom he 
had not seen for a great many moons, and for whom he also had been crying. 
He professed himself satisfied with our present, and advised us to encamp 
on the other side of the river, for fear his young men should be 
troublesome. When the speech was ended, we all rose, shook hands, and 
returned to the boats. During the conference, I had an opportunity of 
noticing these Indians, a great number of whom were assembled on the bank 
above us, and observed that

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they are in stature considerably below the Osages, Mahas, and Poncars, and 
much less robust. They are also more deficient in clothing and ornaments, 
a considerable number being entirely naked, but all armed. Several of our 
party were acquainted with these tribes, and represent them much as 
described by Lewis. Although the squaws are very ill treated by all 
Indians, it is said they are treated much worse by the Sioux than any 
other tribe, whence it follows that mothers frequently destroy their 
female children, alleging as a reason, that it is better they should die 
than continue a life so miserable as that to which they are doomed. 
Amongst the Sioux women, it is also said, suicide is not unfrequent, and 
the mode which they adopt to put an end to their existence, is, by hanging 
themselves. They are of opinion that suicide is displeasing to the Father 
of Life, and believe it will be punished in the land of spirits by their 
ghosts being doomed for ever to drag the tree on which they hung 
themselves: for this reason they always suspend themselves to as small a 
tree as can possibly sustain their weight. In the course of the afternoon 
we met a chief who belonged to a party of Teton Okandandas, which 
consisted, he said, of thirty lodges. He requested to have a passage in 
the boats for the remainder of the day. It was granted to him, and he 
remained with us during the night.

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June 1.- This morning the old chief was conveyed over the river, and 
landed on the opposite side, as he said he expected to meet his people, 
but we did not see him again. In the afternoon we entered upon the Great 
Bend, or, as the French call it, the Grand Detour, and encamped about five 
miles above the lower entrance. This bend is said to be twenty-one miles 
in circuit by the course of the river, and only nineteen hundred yards 
across the neck.

2d.- In the morning early we discovered two Indians standing on the 
bluffs, who upon discovering us, spread their buffalo robes to denote that 
they were amicably inclined towards us. We crossed over the river, and 
when we approached them, they extended their arms in a horizontal 
position. This action, I was informed, was an appeal to our clemency. When 
we landed they showed evident symptoms of alarm. This was soon accounted 
for by Messrs. Crooks, M'Clellan, and Miller, who informed us that they 
knew these fellows, and that they were chiefs of the Sahonies and 
Okanandans, who the year preceding had behaved extremely ill, by 
plundering and otherwise maltreating them, in such a manner as to render 
it necessary for their safety to escape down the river in the night, and 
abandon the trade with

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the upper Indians for that year, which had been a great loss to them. They 
seemed very apprehensive that Mr. Crooks would now resent their conduct; 
but after we had smoked with them they became more tranquil. During the 
smoking, Mr. Hunt asked them why they killed white men, as he heard that 
they had killed three during the last summer? They replied, because the 
white men kill us: that man (pointing to Carson) killed one of our 
brothers last summer. This was true. Carson, who was at that time among 
the Ricaras, fired across the Missouri at a war party of Sioux, and it was 
by a very extraordinary chance he killed one of them, as the river is full 
half a mile in breadth, and in retaliation the Sioux killed three white 
men. I observed that, as before, in smoking the pipe they did not make use 
of tobacco, but the bark of cornus sanguinea, or red dog wood, mixed with 
the leaves of rhus glabrum, or smooth sumach. This mixture they call 
kinnikineck. After we had smoked, they spoke of the poverty of their 
tribes, and concluded by saying they expected a present. A few carrottes 
of tobacco and bags of corn were laid at their feet, with which they 
appeared satisfied. As these were the last of the Sioux tribes we expected 
to meet, I now determined to walk all day, and was much pleased that the 
restraint imposed on me by the proximity of these vagabonds was

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removed. I therefore proceeded up the bluffs nearly abreast of the boats. 
In about a quarter of an hour afterwards two other Indians rode hastily 
past me, and overtook the boats. I observed that they had a short 
conference with Mr. Hunt, when they turned their horses about, and again 
rode past me, seemingly in a rage. Mr. Hunt called to me, and requested 
that I would come on board instantly, when he informed me that these 
fellows were also chiefs, and had seen our presents, with which they were 
much dissatisfied, and in consequence had followed the boats to extort 
more. In reply to their insolent demands, Mr. Hunt informed them that "he 
had given all he intended to give, and would give no more," adding, "that 
he was much displeased by their importunity, and if they or any of their 
nation again followed us with similar demands, he would consider them as 
enemies, and treat them as such." As we were not exactly acquainted with 
the strength of these two tribes, and expected that, in consequence of the 
disappointment in their rapacious demands, they would attack us, it was 
arranged that the large boat should ascend on the N. E. side of the river, 
and the three small boats on the S. W. as the bluffs on either side of the 
river can be seen much better from the opposite side; and it was agreed 
that the signal on seeing Indians

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should be two shots fired in quick succession. As we had not much 
apprehension of being attacked on the S. W. side, I went ashore after 
dinner, and continued along the river nearly on a line with the boats, and 
about four o'clock heard the signal given of Indians being seen. I 
instantly ran towards the boats, and arrived as they were preparing to 
quit the shore to aid Mr. Hunt and his party in the large boat, who were 
then apparently in the most imminent danger. They had passed betwixt a 
large sand bar and the shore, and it was evident to us that at that 
juncture they found the water too shallow at the upper end, and were under 
the necessity of turning back. The sand bar prevented the possibility of 
putting out into the river, and we saw with horror that at least a hundred 
Indians had arrived on the bank at the lower end of the bar: we could also 
perceive that they were a war party, as they were painted with black and 
white stripes, and all had shields.(23) We had every reason to conclude 
that these were the Teton Okandandas and the Teton Sahonies, and our 
anxiety for the safety

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of Mr. Hunt and the party in the large boat was indescribable when we saw 
large bodies of Indians every moment arrive at the point near which he 
must unavoidably pass, before we could possibly give him any assistance: 
but our anxiety was changed to surprise on seeing the boat pass within a 
short distance of them unmolested; soon after which the Indians ran along 
the bank to the upper end of the sand bar, threw down their arms, their 
shields, and their buffalo robes, and plunged into the river in crowds to 
meet us; and before we could reach the sand bar, they were round our 
boats, holding up their hands in such numbers, that it became tiresome to 
shake hands with so many. We now found that this was a war party, 
consisting of Aricaras, Mandans, and Minetarees, or Gros Ventres, who were 
coming against the Sioux, and having discovered us, had determined for the 
present to abandon the enterprise, expecting that on our arrival at the 
Arrears Town they should obtain a supply of fire arms and ammunition, 
which would give them a superiority over their enemies. During the 
ceremony of shaking hands we were joined by the large boat, and it was 
agreed that we should encamp at the first convenient place. We soon found 
one that was suitable, and the Indians fixed their camp about one hundred 
yards from ours. I now ascertained that the party consisted of nearly 
three hundred warriors. As we

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had plenty of provisions, a supply was given to the Indians, who prepared 
their supper, after which the chiefs and principal warriors came to our 
tents. In Mr. M'Kenzie's tent there were seven of them, none of whom 
appeared to me to be lower than five feet ten inches, and some were more 
than six feet. Most of them had very good countenances, differing from the 
heavy face of the Osage, and the keen visage of the Sioux. One of them who 
had an aquiline nose, had a scarified line running along each arm, which 
met on his stomach. This our interpreter informed us was done to show his 
grief for the death of his father. Whilst I was endeavouring to converse 
with him, an Indian boy came into the tent, and handed water round to the 
chiefs in a gourd shell tied to the end of a stick. He spoke to the boy, 
who went out, but soon returned with a new pair of ornamented mockasons, 
and handed them to the warrior, who it then appeared had observed that 
mine were dirty and much worn, as he took them off my feet, and put on the 
new pair, which he tied himself. Observing that he had a short carbine and 
powder flask, I begged to look at the latter, and finding it only 
contained a very small quantity of powder, I immediately filled it from my 
own flask. He was greatly pleased with the acquisition of so much powder, 
and informed me that he was a Ricara, and should meet me at their town, 
where we should be brothers. We

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were interrupted by one of the chiefs crying "How," which signifies among 
the Indians, "Come on, " or "let us begin." This occasioned silence, and 
he began to strike on one hand with a war club which he held in the other. 
It had a globular head, on one side of which was fixed the blade of a 
knife, five or six inches in length. The head was hollow, and contained 
small bits of metal, which made a jingling noise as he struck it in quick 
time. The singing now commenced, and continued at intervals until past 
midnight. The song is very rude, and it does not appear that they combine 
the expression of ideas and music, the whole of their singing consisting 
in the repetition of the word ha six or seven times in one tone, after 
which they rise or fall a third, fourth, or fifth, and the same in quick 
time. I observed that their voices were in perfect unison, and although, 
according to our ideas of music, there was neither harmony nor melody, yet 
the effect was pleasing, as there was evidently system, all the changes of 
tone being as exactly conformable in point of time, as if only one voice 
had been heard. Whenever their performance ceased, the termination was 
extremely abrupt, by pronouncing the word how in a quick and elevated 
tone. On the morning of the 3d, the chiefs declared to Mr. Hunt their 
intention of immediately returning

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to their nation, where they expected to arrive in three days, although 
they had been sixteen days in coming out. They also demanded some arms and 
ammunition. This demand, being conformable to the custom of war parties, 
had been foreseen, but was not complied with, Mr. Hunt informing them, 
that when we arrived at their nation, we should furnish abundance. After 
we had left them, the chief overtook us on horseback, and said that his 
people were not satisfied to go home without some proof of their having 
seen the white men. Mr. Hunt could not now resist, and gave him a cask of 
powder, a bag of balls, and three dozen of knives, with which he was much 
pleased. Whilst the articles were delivering to him, an Indian came 
running up, and informed us that there was a boat in sight, coming up the 
river. We immediately concluded that it was the boat belonging to Manuel 
Lisa, and after proceeding five or six miles, we waited for it. I was much 
pleased on the boat's joining us, to find that Mr. Henry Brackenridge was 
along with Mr. Lisa; I became acquainted with him at St. Louis, and found 
him a very amiable and interesting young man. Mr. Lisa had made the 
greatest possible exertions to overtake us, being well apprised of the 
hostile disposition of the Sioux. He had met a boat, which, it appeared, 
had passed us in the night, and the people informed him that they had been 
fired upon by the

Page 106

Indians. As the conjunct party now consisted of ninety men, and we were 
approaching the nations that were at war with the Sioux, our fears almost 
subsided; for myself, I was much gratified on finding the restraints 
removed which had so long circumscribed my motions. In the early part of 
this day the wind was fair, but after we had proceeded some miles, it 
changed to north-east, and blew so strong, that we could not stem the 
torrent, which was increased by the rising of the river. I went to the 
bluffs, which in this part are of considerable elevation, but rise in a 
gentle slope from the river: near the summit is a stratum of deep brown-
coloured earth, from two to three hundred feet in breadth, on the 
declivity of the hill. This earth appears mostly to consist of decomposed 
iron ore, and is evidently a continuation of that seen near Little Cedar 
Island, although distant from it near a hundred miles in a right line. I 
observed, that uniformly the flat tops of the hills were almost covered 
with masses of stone, chiefly breccia. There was something so singularly 
constant in this appearance, that I was tempted to attend to a particular 
examination, and became convinced that these groupes of stone were the 
passive cause of the hills. If the group was of an oblong form, the hill 
was a ridge; if it was nearly circular, the hill was a cone. It would be 
difficult to describe the sensations occasioned by a view at once of these 
hills

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and the valley of the Missouri. The mind is irresistibly impressed with 
the belief that the whole surface of the surrounding country was once at 
least on a level with the tops of these hills; and that all below has been 
carried away by the erosion of water, from which it has been protected in 
the parts where these stones were collected.(24) I remarked this day, that 
the wolves were more numerous and more daring than in any former part of 
our voyage. Within the last week we frequently saw a few every day, but 
now, some of them were almost constantly in sight, and so fearless, as 
frequently to stand at no great distance to gaze. For the present, they 
were protected by their worthlessness, their skins being out of season. It 
appears that in a natural state, the wolf is a diurnal animal; but in the 
neighbourhood of condensed and stationary population its habits change, 
and it becomes nocturnal.(25) On my route this day I saw numerous colonies 
of the prairie dog; and from the frequency of the occurrence, I noticed 
that my approach to their

Page 108

burrows was announced by the screams of a species of curlew. I shot one, 
and ascertained it to be a variety of scolopax arquata; and perceived, 
after I noticed the fact, that the alarm was invariably given. On my 
return to the boats, I found that some of the leaders of our party were 
extremely apprehensive of treachery on the part of Mr. Lisa, who being now 
no longer in fear of the Sioux, they suspected had an intention of 
quitting us shortly, and of doing us an injury with the Aricaras. 
Independent of this feeling, it had required all the address of Mr. Hunt 
to prevent Mr. M'Clellan or Mr. Crooks from calling him to account for 
instigating the Sioux to treat them ill the preceding year. Besides, it 
was believed by all, that although apparently friendly, he was anxiously 
desirous that the expedition should fail. Lisa had twenty oars, and made 
much greater expedition than we could; it was evident, therefore, that he 
had it in his power to leave us, and it was determined to watch his 
conduct narrowly.

4th.- The boats did not make much way, and I walked chiefly on and beyond 
the bluffs, which I found of the same description as those observed 
yesterday, and on still farther examination, became more confirmed in my 
opinion regarding the origin of the hills. On the summit of one I found 
some fragments of bones in a petrified state, apparently

Page 109

belonging to the buffalo. I had for some time past noticed on the 
declivities circular spaces of about six or seven feet in diameter, wholly 
divested of every kind of vegetation, and covered with small gravel. The 
frequent occurrence of these this day attracted my more particular 
attention, and I found that they were caused by a large species of black 
ant, hundreds of which were running in every direction within the area 
with astonishing activity. On finding a large beetle, I put it in the 
centre of one of these areas, when it was instantly seized by those 
nearest to it. For a short time the ants were dragged along with ease; but 
by some unknown and surprising faculty the intelligence was immediately 
spread throughout the whole space: the ants ran from every direction 
towards the centre, and in a few seconds the poor beetle became completely 
covered, and escape was impossible.

5th.- We had not proceeded more than four miles before a very heavy rain 
commenced, and we were compelled to stop and fix up the tents. I went as 
usual to the bluffs, and on my return to secure some interesting specimens 
of plants, found that Lisa had encamped about one hundred yards above us. 
After I had dried my clothes, I again visited the bluffs in company with 
Mr. Brackenridge. We discovered on the bank of a small creek the remains 
of an Indian encampment, which had

Page 110

apparently been occupied by a considerable number, and for some time, as 
there was a great quantity of bones spread on the ground, and the marks 
where the wigwams stood were numerous. We agreed that the situation was 
judiciously chosen to prevent surprise. On ascending the hills, and 
looking over the summit, we observed near us a small herd of buffaloes, 
consisting of two cows and three bulls. We immediately drew back, and 
taking advantage of a ravine, approached within thirty or forty yards, and 
fired. We wounded one of the cows, which Mr. Brackenridge pursued. Several 
other herds of buffaloes were in view, and some antelopes or cabri. I 
found the hills all capped with stones, and was still more confirmed in my 
opinion respecting their formation by observing some large detached 
blocks, each lying on a small pyramid of clay. After Mr. Brackenridge 
joined me, we saw a large hare, lepus variabilis, the first I had noticed, 
and also a number of wolves in several directions, and returning through 
an extensive colony of prairie dogs, we regained the boats. Immediately on 
my return to our camp, a circumstance happened that for some time 
threatened to produce tragical consequences. We learned that, during our 
absence, Mr. Lisa had invited Dorion, our interpreter, to his boat, where 
he had given him some whiskey, and took that opportunity of avowing his 
intention to take him away from

Page 111

Mr. Hunt, in consequence of a debt due by Dorion to the Missouri Fur 
Company, for whom Lisa was agent. Dorion had often spoken to us of this 
debt, and in terms of great indignation at the manner in which it had been 
incurred, alleging, that he had been charged the most exorbitant prices 
for articles had at Fort Mandan, and in particular ten dollars per quart 
for whiskey. Some harsh words having passed betwixt him and Lisa, he 
returned to our camp. On the instant of my arrival, Mr. Lisa came to 
borrow a cordeau, or towing-line, from Mr. Hunt, and being perceived by 
Dorion, he instantly sprang out of his tent, and struck him. Lisa flew 
into the most violent rage, crying out, "O mon Dieu! ou est mon couteau!" 
and ran precipitately to his boat. As it was expected he would return 
armed, Dorion got a pair of pistols, and took his ground, the party 
ranging themselves in order to witness the event. Soon after Mr. Lisa 
appeared without pistols; but it was observed that he had his knife in his 
girdle. As Dorion had disclosed what had passed in Lisa's boat, Messrs. 
Crooks and M'Clellan were each very eager to take up the quarrel, but were 
restrained by Mr. Hunt, until an expression from Lisa, conveying an 
imputation upon himself, made him equally desirous of fighting. He told 
Lisa that the matter should be settled by themselves, and desired him to 
fetch his pistols. I followed Lisa to his boat,

Page 112

accompanied by Mr. Brackenridge, and we with difficulty prevented a 
meeting, which, in the present temper of the parties, would certainly have 
been a bloody one.

The river had risen considerably during the night, and we were now 
convinced that the floods we had before encountered, and which were of 
short duration, were only partial, and caused by the rising of the 
tributary streams that have their sources in the lower regions. The 
periodical flood is occasioned by the melting of the snows on the Rocky 
Mountains, and the plains at their feet. The boats ascended with 
difficulty, which gave opportunities for walking the whole of the day. In 
the early part, we passed the remains of an old Aricara village. The scite 
was indicated by an embankment, on which there had been pallisadoes, as 
the remains were still visible. Within the area, the vestiges of the 
lodges were very apparent, and great quantities of bones and fragments of 
earthenware were scattered in every part. The wolves are still numerous, 
and are mostly of a light grey colour, with a few black hairs intermixed 
on the hind part of the back: they are seen singly, and although not 
timid, show no disposition to attack. Happening to come on one this day 
suddenly and unperceived, I shot him. He was large, and appeared to be 
old, as his teeth were much worn.