Travels in the Interior of America - Pages 17-69



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ON the 31st December, 1809, I arrived at St. Louis, in Upper Louisiana; 
intending to make that town or neighbourhood my principal place of 
residence, whilst employed in exploring the interior of Upper Louisiana 
and the Illinois Territory, for the purpose of discovering and collecting 
subjects in natural history, either new or valuable. During the ensuing 
spring and summer, I made frequent excursions alone into the wilderness, 
but not farther than eighty or a hundred miles into the interior. In the 
autumn of 1810, I dispatched for Orleans, in seven packages, the result of 
my researches; but had the mortification, soon after, to hear that the 
boat containing my collection had been driven ashore and damaged, on an 
island near St. Genevieve, sixty miles below St. Louis. As soon as I 
received this information I went thither, but learned that the boat had 
been repaired, and had

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proceeded on her voyage. On my return to St. Louis, I was informed that a 
party of men had arrived from Canada, with an Intention to ascend the 
Missouri, on their way to the Pacific Ocean, by the same route that Lewis 
and Clarke had followed, by descending the Columbia River. I soon became 
acquainted with the principals of this party, in whom the manners and 
accomplishments of gentlemen were united with the hardihood and capability 
of suffering, necessary to the backwoodsmen. As they were apprised of the 
nature and object of my mission, Mr. Wilson P. Hunt, the leader of the 
party, in a very friendly and pressing manner invited me to accompany them 
up the River Missouri, as far as might be agreeable to my views. I had 
intended to remove from St. Louis to Ozark, (or more properly Aux-arcs) on 
the Arkansas, and to spend the remaining summer on that river; but 
considering this opportunity for exploring the Missouri too valuable to be 
lost, I gladly accepted the invitation, to which an acquaintance with 
Messrs. Ramsey Crooks and Donald M'Kenzie, also principals of the party, 
was no small inducement. As it would not be practicable to ascend the 
Missouri until the breaking up of the ice in spring, Mr. Hunt concluded, 
that to avoid the expense of supporting his party at St. Louis, it would 
be better to station them during the winter on some part of the Missouri, 
at a considerable

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distance above its mouth, as, at any point on that river above the 
settlements, five or six hunters can easily provide for forty or fifty 
men. The party therefore quitted St. Louis, and proceeded to the mouth of 
the Naduet, which falls into the Missouri 450 miles from the Mississippi. 
In the beginning of March Mr. Hunt returned to St. Louis in a boat with 
ten oars, and on the morning of the 12th, having completed his 
arrangements, he again embarked for the Missouri. As the post was expected 
to arrive the morning following, I put my trunks on board the boat, and 
determined to wait until that time, and meet the party at St. Charles. I 
must here observe, that the post to St. Louis is dispatched from 
Louisville, in Kentucky, a distance of more than 300 miles, through a 
wilderness, and from various causes is often retarded for several weeks, 
as had been the case at that period. In the evening I was informed by a 
gentleman in St. Louis, that a writ for debt had been taken out against 
Dorion, (whom Mr. Hunt had engaged as interpreter) by a person whose 
object was to defeat the intentions of the voyage. Knowing that the 
detention of Dorion would be of serious consequence to the party, I left 
St. Louis at two O'clock the following morning, in company with a young 
Englishman of the name of Nuttall, determined to meet the boat previous to 
its arrival at St. Charles, which I effected; and Dorion was sent into the 
woods,

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his squaw accompanying him. We arrived at St. Charles about noon, and soon 
after Mr. Samuel Bridge, a gentleman from Manchester, then living at St. 
Louis, arrived also, with letters for me from Europe, the post having come 
in as was expected. We slept on board the boat, and in the morning of the 
14th took our departure from St. Charles, the Canadians measuring the 
strokes of their oars by songs, which were generally responsive betwixt 
the oarsmen at the bow and those at the stem: sometimes the steersman 
sung, and was chorused by the men.(1) We soon met with Dorion, but

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without his squaw, Whom it was intended should accompany us. They had 
quarrelled, and he had

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beaten her, in consequence of which she ran away from him into the woods, 
with a child in her arms, and a large bundle on her back. A Canadian of 
the name of St. Paul was sent in search of her. The day was very rainy, 
and we proceeded only nine miles, to Bon Homme Island, where we encamped, 
and St. Paul arrived, but without the squaw. I observed in the broken 
banks of this island, a number of tuberous roots, which the Canadians call 
pommes de terre. They are eaten by them, and also by the Indians, and have 
much of the consistence and taste of the Jerusalem artichoke: they are the 
roots of glycine apios.

15th.- About two hours before day, we were hailed from the shore by 
Dorion's squaw, who had been rambling all night in search of us. She was 
informed, that we would cross over to her at daybreak, which we did, and 
took her on board. I walked the greater part of this day on the north side 
of the river, which is partly bounded by rocks of secondary lime-stone; at 
the foot of which I observed crystals of quartz and calcarious spar, or 
carbonate of lime. We encamped opposite the remains of the village of St. 
Andrew, which is now abandoned.

16th.- We this day passed the Tavern Rocks, so called from a large cave 
therein, level with the

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surface of the river. These rocks are nearly three hundred feet high, and 
are of the same nature as those we passed yesterday, but more abundantly 
filled with organ remains, consisting of anomiae and entrochii. 0 the 
islands which we passed there is abundance of equisetum hyemale, called 
rushes by the settlers, by whom this plant is held in high estimation, on 
account of its affording winter food for their cattle. On the first 
settlement of Kentucky, the borders of the river were found to be thickly 
set with cane, (arundinaria macrosperma of Michaux) and it was one of the 
strong. est inducements with the first settlers to fix on a spot if cane 
was abundant. On the Missouri, the rushes are equally valuable, affording 
to the first settler winter food for his cattle for several years, after 
which they perish, being destroyed if fed on during the winter. We this 
night arrived at Point L'Abaddie, where we encamped.

17th.- Early this morning I walked along the river, and was much struck 
with the vast size to which the cotton wood tree(2) grows. Many of those 
which I observed this day exceed seven feet in diameter, and continue with 
a thickness very little diminished, to the height of 80 or go. feet, where 
the limbs commence. After breakfast, we

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crossed to the north side of the river, and in the afternoon landed at a 
French village, name Charette. In the woods surrounding this place I 
observed a striking instance of the indolence of the inhabitants. The 
rushes in the neighbourhood had been already destroyed by the cattle, and 
from the neglect of the owners to provide winter food for their horses, 
they had been reduced to the necessity of gnawmg the bark off the trees, 
some hundreds of which were stripped as far as these animals could reach. 
The cotton wood, elm, mulberry, and nettle trees (celtis crassifolia) 
suffered the most. On leaving Charette, Mr. Hunt pointed out to me an old 
man standing on the bank, who, he informed me, was Daniel Boone, the 
discoverer of Kentucky. As I had a letter of introduction to him, from his 
nephew Colonel Grant, I went ashore to speak to him, and requested that 
the boat might go on, as I intended to walk until evening. I remained for 
some time in conversation with him. He informed me, that he was eighty-
four years of age; that he had spent a considerable portion of his time 
alone in the back woods, and had lately returned from his spring hunt, 
with nearly sixty beaver skins. On proceeding through the woods, I came to 
the river Charette, which falls into the Missouri about a mile above the 
village, and was now much swelled by the late rains. As the boat had 
disappeared behind an island, and was at too great a distance to

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be hailed, I got across by swimming, having tied my clothes together, and 
inclosed them in my deer skin hunting coat, which I pushed before me. I 
overtook the boat in about three hours, and we encamped at the mouth of a 
creek called Boeuf, near the house of one Sullens. I enquired of Sullens 
for John Colter, one of Lewis and Clarke's party, whom General Clark had 
mentioned to me as being able to point out the place on the Missouri where 
the petrified skeleton of a fish, above forty feet long, had been found. 
Sullens informed me that Colter lived about a mile from us, and sent his 
son to inform him of our arrival; but we did not see him that evening.

18th.- At day-break Sullens came to our camp, and informed us that 
Colter(3) would be with us in a

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few minutes. Shortly after he arrived, and accompanied us for some miles, 
but could not give me

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the information I wished for. He seemed to have a great inclination to 
accompany the expedition;

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but having been lately married, he reluctantly took leave of us. I walked 
this day along the bluffs,

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which were beautifully adorned with anemone hepatica. We encamped near the 
lower end of Lutre (Otter) Island.

The 19th commenced and continued rainy.- When we had passed the lower 
settlements, we began to see the river and its borders in a state of 
nature. The rushes, equisetum hyemale, were so thick and tall, that it was 
both painful and difficult to walk along, even at a very slow pace.

20th.- The river on the south side, during this day's travel, is mostly 
bounded by bluffs, or rocks, of whitish limestone: their appearance is 
very picturesque; the tops are crowned with cedar, and the ledges and 
chinks are adorned with mespilus Canadensis, now in flower. We encamped 
this night seven miles above the mouth of Gasconade River.

21st.- The rain, which had been almost incessant since our departure from 
St. Charles, had now ceased.

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I went ashore, after breakfast, intending to walk along the bluffs, and 
was followed by Mr. Nuttall. We observed that the boat immediately passed 
over to the other side of the river, on account of its being more easy to 
ascend. As this sometimes happened several times in a day, we felt no 
concern about it, but proceeded on our researches. In the forenoon we came 
to a creek or river, much swelled by the late rains: I was now surprised 
to find that Mr. Nuttall could not swim. As we had no tomahawk, nor any 
means of constructing a raft, and were certain that the boat was before 
us, we looked for no alternative but to cross the creek by fording it. We 
therefore continued to ascend, and in about half an hour arrived at a 
place where a tree had fallen in on the opposite side of the river, which 
reached about half way across it. I stripped, and attempted to wade it, 
but found it impracticable. I then offered to take Nuttall on my back, and 
swim over with him; but he declined, and we continued our route. About a 
league further up, we found a raft of drift-wood, which had been stopped 
by a large tree that had fallen into the river; this we crossed and with 
some difficulty overtook the boat. We arrived at a French village, called 
Cote sans Dessein, about two miles below the mouth of Osage River. After 
we had formed our camp, the interpreter went into the village, where he 
had some acquaintance. On his return, he informed us that

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there was a war party of Indians in the neighbourhood, consisting of the 
Ayauwais, Potowatomies, Sioux, and Saukee nations, amounting to nearly 
three hundred warriors.

He had learned, that this party were going against the Osages; but having 
discovered that there was an Osage boy in the village, they were waiting 
to catch and scalp him. He also informed us, that we might expect to fall 
in with other war parties crossing the Missouri higher up. This was 
unpleasant news to us, as it is always desirable that white men should 
avoid meeting with Indian war parties: for if they are going to war, they 
are generally associated in larger parties than can subsist by hunting, 
from which they refrain, to prevent being discovered by their enemies, 
wherefore they are almost certain to levy contributions of provisions or 
ammunition on all they meet. When they return from war, the danger is 
still greater; for, if successful, they often commit wanton ravages; and 
if unsuccessful, the shame of returning to their nation without having 
performed any achievement, often induces them to attack those whom they 
would, in other circumstances, have peaceably passed. As we were sixteen 
men, well armed, we were determined to resist any act of aggression, in 
case of a rencontre with them.

22nd, 23rd, and 24th.- Almost incessant rain. Our bread was now becoming 
very mouldy, not

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having been properly baked. Mr. Hunt anxiously waited for a fine day to 
dry it, together with the rest of the baggage.

25th.- Met a boat with sixteen oars coming from Fort Osage to St. Louis, 
for supplies: news had arrived at the fort, that the Great Osages had 
lately killed an American at their village.

26th.- It rained nearly the whole of this day: the flats near the river 
still continue to be so thickly covered with rushes, that it is almost 
impossible to travel over them.

27th.- The north bank of the river now assumes a most interesting 
appearance: it consists of a range of rocks, nearly perpendicular, from 
150 to 300 feet high; they are composed of a very white limestone, and 
their summits are covered to the edge with cedar. The length of this range 
is about six miles, and at the upper end they assume a semi-circular form. 
These are called the Manitou Rocks, a name given to them by the Indians, 
who often apply this term Manitou to uncommon or singular productions of 
nature, which they highly venerate. On or near these Manitous, they 
chiefly deposit their offerings to the Great Spirit or Father of Life. 
This has caused some to believe that these Manitous are the objects that 
they worship; but this opinion is erroneous. The Indians believe that the 

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Great Spirit either inhabits, or frequently visits, these manifestations 
of his power; and that offerings deposited there, will sooner attract his 
notice, and gain his auspices, than in any other place. These offerings 
are propitiatory, either for success in war or in hunting, and consist of 
various articles, of which the feathers of the war eagle (falco 
melanoetos) are in the greatest estimation. On these rocks several rude 
figures have been drawn by the Indians with red paint: they are chiefly in 
imitation of buffaloe, deer, &c. One of these, according with their idea 
of the Great Spirit, is not unlike our common representation of the devil. 
We encamped this night a little above the mouth of the Bonne Femme, a 
small river on the north side, where the tract of land called Boone's Lick 
settlement commences, supposed to be the best land in Western America for 
so great an area: it extends about 150 miles up the Missouri, and is near 
fifty miles in breadth.

28th.- I left the boats early, intending to walk to the Lick settlements, 
which are the last on the river, excepting those occupied by one or two 
families near Fort Osage. After travelling eight or ten miles, I was 
surprised in the woods by a severe thunder storm. Not knowing whether I 
could reach the settlements before night, I returned to meet the boat, and 
found our two hunters, who

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had sheltered themselves in a hollow tree: they had killed a buck, on a 
part of which we dined, and carried the remainder to the boat, and soon 
after we arrived at the first house, belonging to a planter named Hibband. 
This evening we had a most tremendous thunder storm; and about nine 
o'clock, a tree, not more than fifty yards from our camp, was shivered by 
lightning. Mr. Hunt, Mr. Nuttall, and myself, who were sitting in the 
tent, sensibly felt the action of the electric fluid.

29th.- As Mr. Hunt had some business with one of the settlers, we walked 
to his house, where we heard that war had already commenced between the 
Osages and the confederate nations, and that the former had killed seven 
of the Ayauways. This determined us to continue our practice of sleeping 
on our arms, as we had done since the 21St. We slept this night about a 
league above the settlements.

30th.- We were now beyond all the settlements, except those at Fort Osage, 
and Mr. Hunt resolved to send the hunters out more frequently, as game 
might now be expected in abundance. I accompanied them, and we killed a 
buck and a doe. I found the country, three or four miles from the river, 
very broken or stony. The almost incessant rains had now raised the 
Missouri to within a few

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feet of its annual flood, which rendered the navigation very difficult.

31st.-The morning was rainy, and was succeeded by a strong north wind, 
which caused a sudden change in the temperature of the weather: the 30th 
had been warm, but this night the water, in a tin cup of a pint measure, 
that had been left full in the boat, was found to be nearly all solid ice 
on the morning of the first of April.

April 1st.- After breakfast I went ashore with the two hunters, Harrington 
and Mears, but soon separated from them in order to visit the bluffs. In 
the evening I descended into the valley, and on my way to find the boat, 
observed a skunk(4), (Viverra mephitis) and being desirous of procuring 
the skin, fired at it, but with shot only, having that day

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taken out my fowling-piece instead of my rifle. It appeared that I had 
either missed entirely, or only slightly wounded it, as it turned round 
instantly, and ran towards me. Being well aware of the consequence if 
overtaken, I fled, but was so closely pursued, that I was under the 
necessity of re-loading whilst in the act of running. At the next 
discharge I killed it; but as it had ejected its offensive liquor upon its 
tail, I could not touch it, but cut a slender vine, of which I made a 
noose, and dragged my prize to the boat. I found that the Canadians 
considered it as a delicacy, and were desirous of procuring it to eat: 
this enabled me to obtain the skin without having to perform the 
disgusting operation of taking it off myself. Soon after my arrival, 
Harrington came in, and brought the intelligence that they had killed a 
large bear about four miles off. He had left Mears engaged in skinning it, 
and came to request that one or two men might be sent to assist in 
fetching it in. As it was near night, Mr. Hunt determined to stop, and two 
of the Canadians were sent along with Harrington; I also accompanied them. 
Although our course lay through a very thick wood, Harrington led us with 
great precision towards the place, and when he supposed himself near it, 
he stopped, and we gave a shout. In a few seconds afterwards we heard the 
discharge of a rifle, and also a shout from Mears, who was within two 
hundred

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yards of us. On joining him we were surprised to find that he had two 
bears. He informed us, that after the departure of Harrington he re-loaded 
his rifle, and laid it beside him whilst he was skinning and cutting up 
the bear: he had nearly completed this operation, when he heard a 
rustling, as if an animal was coming towards him. To defend himself, he 
seized his piece, and at the moment we shouted, a bear appeared in view. 
Not seeing Mears, he laid his fore paws on the trunk of a fallen tree, and 
turned his head to look back. Mears could not have wished for a better 
opportunity; he shot him through the head. The bears were very large, and 
as the night had set in before the latter was skinned and cut up, it was 
too late to send to the boat for assistance: I therefore offered to carry 
a part, provided they would allot to me the skins, as they were the only 
clean part of the spoil. This proposition was agreed to, and we set out. 
Before we had proceeded far, it became quite dark, which caused us to take 
a wrong direction, that led to a swamp. In addition to our difficulties, 
the underwood consisted chiefly of the prickly ash, (zanthoxylon clava 
Hercules) by which our faces and hands were continually scratched: there 
was also an abundance of small prickly vines entwined among the bushes, of 
a species of smilax. These were easily avoided during

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day-light, but they were now almost every instant throwing some of us 
down. Whilst we were deliberating whether it would not be advisable to 
stop, make a fire, and remain there during the night, we heard the report 
of a gun, which we thought proceeded from the boat: we therefore steered 
our course in the direction of the sound. Shortly afterwards we perceived 
before us a light glimmering through the trees, and in less than half an 
hour we had a full view of it. Mr. Hunt, from our long delay, had become 
apprehensive of what had really happened, viz. that we had lost our way, 
and having observed near the camp a very large cotton-wood tree, which was 
dead, and evidently hollow, he caused a hole to be cut into the cavity 
near the root, and a quantity of dry weeds being put in, it was set on 
fire. The trunk was at least seventy or eighty feet in length before the 
broken limbs commenced; several of these projected eight or ten feet, and 
were also hollow. The flames, impelled by so long a column of rarefied 
air, issued from the top, and from the ends of the limbs, with a 
surprising force, and with a noise equal to that of a blast furnace. 
Although smarting with pain, weary, wet, and hungry, not having eaten any 
thing since morning, I sat down to enjoy the scene, and have seldom 
witnessed one more magnificent. On relating to the hunters this evening 
that I had

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been pursued by a skunk, they laughed heartily, and said it was no 
uncommon thing, having been often in the same predicament themselves.

2nd.- We this day passed the scite of a village on the north-east side of 
the river, once belonging to the Missouri tribe. Four miles above it are 
the remains of Fort Orleans, formerly belonging to the French; it is 240 
miles from the mouth of the Missouri." We passed the mouth of La Grande 
Riviere, near which I first observed the appearance of prairie(5) on the 
alluvion of the river. Our hunters went out, but soon returned without 
attempting to kill any thing, having heard some shots fired, which they 
discovered proceeded from Indians in pursuit of elk. The navigation had 
been very difficult for some days, on account of the frequent occurrence 
of, what is termed by the boatmen, embarras. They are formed by large 
trees falling into the river, where it has undermined the banks. Some of 
these trees remain still attached by their

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roots to the firm ground, and the drift-wood being collected by the 
branches, a dam of the length of the tree is formed, round the point of 
which the water runs with such velocity, that in many instances it is 
impossible to stem it. On account of these obstacles, we were frequently 
under the necessity of crossing the river. This day the carcases of 
several drowned buffaloes passed us.

3rd.-I walked the greatest part of the day, but found it troublesome, 
being much annoyed by the prickly ash. In the evening we had another 
severe thunder storm.

4th.-The navigation became less difficult, as the river had fallen four 
feet.

5th.-Went out with the hunters, who shot nothing but a goose, (anas 
Canadensis) that was sitting on a tree beside its nest, in which was the 
female. Observed for the first time that the rocks bordering the river 
were sandstone. In these I found nodules of iron ore imbedded.

6th.-Walked all day, and in the afternoon -met the hunters, who had found 
a bee tree,(6) and were

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returning to the boat for a bucket, and a hatchet to cut it down. I 
accompanied them to the tree. It con tained a great number of combs, and 
about three gal Ions of honey. The honey bees have been introduced into 
this continent from Europe, but at what time I have not been able to 
ascertain. Even if it be admitted that they were brought over soon after 
the first settlement took place, their increase since appears astonishing, 
as bees are found in all parts of the United States; and since they have 
entered upon the fine countries of the Illinois and Upper Louisiana, their 
progress westward has been surprisingly rapid. It is generally known in 
Upper Louisiana, that bees had not been found westward of the Mississippi 
prior to the year 1797.(7) They are now found as high up the Missouri as 
the Maha nation, having moved westward to the distance of 600 miles in 
fourteen years. Their extraordinary progress in these parts is probably 
owing to a portion of the country being prairie, and yielding therefore a 
succession of flowers during the whole summer, which is not the case in 
forests. Bees

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have spread over this continent in a degree, and with a celerity so nearly 
corresponding with that of the Anglo-Americans, that it has given rise to 
a belief, both amongst the Indians and the Whites, that bees are their 
precursors, and that to whatever part they go the white people will 
follow. I am of opinion that they are right, as I think it as impossible 
to stop the progress of the one as of the other. We encamped this night at 
the bottom of an island.

7th.- This morning I went upon the island, accompanied by one of the 
Frenchmen named Guardepee, to look for game. We were wholly unsuccessful 
in our pursuit, although the island is of considerable extent. On arriving 
at the upper end of it, we perceived a small island, of about two acres, 
covered with grass only, and separated from the large one by a narrow 
channel, the mouth of which was covered with drift timber. We passed over, 
and walked through the grass, and having given up all hopes of game, we 
were proceeding to the river to wait for the boat, when my companion, who 
was before me, suddenly stopped, fired, and jumped aside, crying out, 
"Voila, O diable, tirez," at the same time pointing towards the grass a 
few steps before him. I looked, and saw a bear not five yards from us. I 
immediately fired, and we retired to a short distance to reload, but on our

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return found the animal expiring. It was a female, with three small cubs 
in her bed, about two yards from where she was killed. She had heard us 
approach, and was advancing to defend them. I took one of the cubs in my 
arms. It seemed sensible of its misfortune, and cried at intervals. It was 
evident that whenever it uttered a cry, the convulsions of the dying 
mother increased, and I really felt regret that we had so suddenly cut the 
ties of so powerful an affection.(8) Whilst we breakfasted the bear was 
cut up, and, with the young ones, taken on board. We encamped this night 
about twelve miles below Fort Osage.

8th.- About ten o'clock we came in sight of the fort, about six miles 
distant. We had not been long in sight before we saw the flag was hoisted, 
and at noon we arrived, when we were saluted with a volley as we passed on 
to the landing place, where we met Mr. Crooks, who had come down from the 

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wintering station at the mouth of the river Naduet to meet us. There were 
also collected at the landing place about 200 Indians, men, women, and 
children, of the Petit Osage nation, whose village was then about 300 
yards from the fort. We passed through them to pay our respects to 
Lieutenant Brownson, who then commanded in the absence of Captain Clemson. 
He received us very politely, and insisted that we should eat at his table 
during our stay. I had with me an introductory letter to Dr. Murray, 
physician to the garrison, whom I found disposed to give me every 
information relative to the customs and manners of the Osage nation, and 
from him also I received a vocabulary of a considerable number of words in 
that language.(9) He walked with me down to the boats, where we found 
several squaws assembled, as Dr. Murray assured me, for the same purpose 
as females of a certain class in the maritime towns of Europe crowd round 
vessels lately arrived from a long voyage, and it must be admitted with 
the same success. Towards evening an old chief came down, and harangued 
the Indians assembled about the boats, for the purpose of inviting the 
warriors of the late expedition to a feast prepared for them in the 
village. I was told it was intended that the dance of the scalp should be 
performed, on the

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occasion of the war party having brought in seven scalps from the 
Ayauwais, a village belonging to whom they had destroyed, and killed two 
old men and five women and children. All the rest had fled at their 
approach; but as rain came on the dance was not performed. At evening Dr. 
Murray proposed that we should walk into the village, which I found to 
consist of about one hundred lodges of an oblong form, the frame of 
timber, and the covering mats, made of the leaves of flag, or typha 
palustris. On our return through the town, we called at the lodge 
belonging to a chief named Waubuschon, with whom Dr. Murray was 
particularly acquainted. The floor was covered with mats, on which they 
sat; but as I was a stranger, I was offered a cushion. A wooden bowl was 
now handed round, containing square pieces of cake, in taste resembling 
gingerbread. On inquiry I found it was made of the pulp of the persimon, 
(diospyros Virginiana) mixed with pounded corn. This bread they called 
staninca. Shortly afterwards some young squaws came in, with whom the 
doctor (who understood the Osage language) began to joke, and in a few 
minutes they seemed to have overcome all bashfulness, or even modesty. 
Some of their expressions, as interpreted to me, were of the most obscene 
nature. The squaw of our host laughed heartily, and did all in her power 
to promote this kind of conversation. I expressed

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my surprise to Dr. Murray, but was informed by him that similar conduct 
would have been pursued at any other lodge in the village. We left the 
lodge of Waubuschon, and went to that of the chief. On the roof the seven 
scalps were placed, tied to sticks ornamented with racoons' tails. We were 
shewn to the upper end of the lodge, and sat down on the ground. I learned 
that the chief was not present; that he was t boy of six years of age, his 
name Young White Hair, and that the tribe was now governed by a regent. 
Immediately a warrior came in, and made a speech, frequently pointing to 
the scalps on the roof, as they were visible through the hole by which the 
smoke escaped. I understood that he had distinguished himself in the late 
expedition against the Ayauways. After shaking hands with all round, we 
left the lodge, and in our return to the boat we met the squaw belonging 
to our interpreter, who being of the Ayauway nation, appeared to be much 
afraid of the Osages during our passage up the river, and it was thought 
with reason, as on our first interview with the commandant, it had been 
debated whether or not it would be prudent to send a file of men to 
conduct her from the boat to the fort during our stay. On inquiry we found 
that she had been invited up to the village by some of the Osages, and of 
course, according to Indian custom, would be as safe with them as in the 
fort.

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I inquired of Dr. Murray concerning a practice which I had heard prevailed 
among the Osages, of rising before day to lament their dead. He informed 
me that such was really the custom, and that the loss of a horse or a dog 
was as powerful a stimulus to their lamentations as that of a relative or 
friend; and he assured me, that if I should be awake before day the 
following morning, I might certainly hear them. Accordingly on the 9th I 
heard before day that the howling had commenced; and the better to escape 
observation, I wrapped a blanket round me, tied a black handkerchief on my 
head, and fastened on my belt, in which I stuck my tomahawk, and then 
walked into the village. The doors of the lodges were closed, but in the 
greater part of them the women were crying and howling in a tone that 
seemed to indicate excessive grief. On the outside of the village I heard 
the men, who, Dr. Murray had informed me, always go out of the lodges to 
lament. I soon came within twenty paces of one, and could see him 
distinctly, as it was moonlight: he also saw me, and ceased, upon which I 
withdrew. I was more successful with another, whom I approached nearer 
unobserved. He rested his back against the stump of a tree, and continued 
for about twenty seconds to cry out in a loud and high tone of voice, when 
he suddenly lowered to a low muttering, mixed with sobs: in a few seconds 
he again raised to the

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former pitch.(10) We breakfasted with the commandant, and afterwards 
walked out to view some improvements he had made in the fort. In our walk 
we observed what, on the first view, appeared to be two squaws carrying a 
tub of water, suspended on a pole. Mr. Crooks desired me to notice them, 
which I did, and remarked that one of them had more the appearance of a 
man than of a woman. He assured me that it was a man, and that there were 
several others in the village, who, like the one we saw, were condemned 
for life to associate with the squaws, to wear the same dress, and do the 
same drudgery. I now learned, that when the Osages go to war, they keep a 
watchful eye over the young men who are then making their first essay in 
arms, and such as appear to possess the necessary qualifications are 
admitted to the rank of warriors, or, according to their own idiom, brave 
men. But if any exhibit evident proofs of cowardice, on the return of the 
party they are compelled to assume the dress and character of women, and 
their doom is fixed for life, as no opportunity is afterwards afforded 
them to retrieve

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their character.(11) The men do not associate with them, nor are they 
suffered to marry, or have any intercourse with the women: they maybe 
treated with the greatest indignity by any warrior, as they are not 
suffered to resent it. I found, on inquiry, that the late war party had 
not been conducted by any of the principal chiefs, a circumstance which 
often happens, as any of the noted warriors may lead a party, provided he 
can obtain adherents, and he finds no difficulty in procuring the sanction 
of the chiefs; but in this case he must travel without mockasons, or even 
leggings. He goes the foremost of the party, makes the fire at night, and 
stands to keep watch whilst the party lie down to sleep, nor can he lie 
down unless a warrior rises

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and takes his place. This indulgence he must not require, but may accept, 
if voluntarily offered. In pursuing the object of the expedition, his 
commands are absolute, and he is obeyed without a murmur. The Osages are 
so tall and robust as almost to warrant the application of the term 
gigantic: few of them appear to be under six feet, and many are above it. 
Their shoulders and visages are broad, which tend to strengthen the idea 
of their being giants. On our return from viewing the improvements in the 
fort, I was introduced to Mr. Sibly, the Indian agent there, who is the 
son of Dr. Sibly of Natchitoches." He informed me that he purposed shortly 
to attend the Petits Osages in their annual journey for salt, and invited 
me to accompany him, offering as an inducement, to procure two horses from 
the Indians for my own use. Learning that the place where the salt is 
procured is that which has occasioned the report of a salt mountain 
existing in Upper Louisiana, I was very much inclined to accept his 
invitation; but finding Mr. Hunt unwilling to release me from my promise 
to attend him, I declined it. I accompanied Mr. Sibly and Dr. Murray in 
the evening, to see the dance of the scalp. The ceremony consisted in 
carrying the scalps elevated on sticks through the village, followed by 
the warriors who had composed the war party, dressed in all their 
ornaments, and painted as for war.

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On the 10th we again embarked on the river, although it rained very hard. 
Our number was now augmented to twenty-six by the addition of Mr. Crooks 
and his party. We had not proceeded more than two miles, when our 
interpreter, Dorion, beat his squaw severely; and on Mr. Hunt inquiring 
the cause, he told him that she had taken a fancy to remain at the Osages 
in preference to proceeding with us, and because he had opposed it, she 
had continued sulky ever since. We were obliged to encamp early this day, 
as the rain became excessive.

11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th.-We had a fair wind, and employed our sail, 
wherefore I could not go ashore without danger of being left behind. 
During these days the bread was examined, and being found wholly unfit for 
use, it was thrown overboard.

15th.-We passed the scite of a village which formerly belonged to the 
Kansas Indians- I had an opportunity of going ashore, and found the soil 
to have the appearance of the greatest fertility. On the sides of the 
hills I noticed abundance of the hop plant (humulus lupulus.)

16th.- We began to notice more particularly the great number of drowned 
buffaloes that were floating on the river; vast numbers of them were also 

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thrown ashore, and upon the rafts, on the points of the islands. The 
carcases had attracted an immense number of turkey buzzards, (vultur aura) 
and as the preceding night had been rainy, multitudes of them were sitting 
on the trees, with their backs towards the sun, and their wings spread out 
to dry, a common practice with these birds after rain.

17th.- Arrived at the wintering houses, near the Naduet River, and joined 
the rest of the party.

18th.- I proceeded to examine the neighbouring country, and soon 
discovered that pigeons (columba migratoria) were in the woods. I 
returned , and exchanged my rifle for a fowling-piece, and in a few hours 
shot two hundred and seventy-one, when I desisted. I had an opportunity 
this day of observing the manner in which they feed: it affords a most 
singular spectacle, and is also an example of the rigid discipline 
maintained by gregarious animals. This species of pigeon associates in 
prodigious flocks: one of these flocks, when on the ground, will cover an 
area of several acres in extent, and the birds are so close to each other 
that the ground can scarcely be seen. This phalanx moves through the woods 
with considerable celerity, picking up, as it passes along, every thing 
that will serve for food. It is evident that the foremost

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ranks must be the most successful, and nothing will remain for the 
hindermost. But that all may have an equal chance, the instant that any 
rank becomes the last, it rises, and flying over the whole flock, alights 
exactly ahead of the foremost. They succeed each other with so much 
rapidity, that there is a continued stream of them in the air; and a side 
view of them exhibits the appearance of the segment of a large circle, 
moving through the woods. I observed that they cease to look for food a 
considerable time before they become the last rank, but strictly adhere to 
their regulations, and never rise until there is none behind them.

19th.- On the bluffs(12) under which the wintering

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house was placed, there is a considerable number of flat stones. On 
examining one, I found beneath it several snakes, in a half torpid state, 
arising probably from the cold state of the weather, and I found on 
further examination, that the number of snakes under these stones was 
astonishing. I selected this day eleven species, and killed a great number.

20th.- It was this day arranged, by the desire of Mr. Donald M'Kenzie, 
that I should travel in his boat, and preparations were made for our 
departure the succeeding morning. I was employed in continuing my 
researches, and had a narrow escape from a rattlesnake; it darted at me 
from the top of a small rock, at the base of which I was gathering plants. 
The noise of its rattle just gave me sufficient notice to withdraw my head.

21St.- We again embarked in four boats. Our party amounted to nearly sixty 
persons: forty were Canadian boatmen, such as are employed by the North 
West Company, and are termed in Canada Engages or Voyageurs. Our boats 
were all furnished with masts and sails, and as the wind blew pretty 
strong from the south-east, we availed ourselves of it during the greater 
part of the day.

22d, 23d, 24th.- The wind continuing favourable,

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we sailed almost the whole of these three days, and made considerable 
progress.

25th.- Went ashore with the hunters, and collected a new species of rattle-
snake, and a bird of the genus recurvirostra. The hunters killed two elks, 
but they were so lean that we left them for the vultures: at all times 
their flesh is much inferior to that of deer.

26th.- The wind had changed to the north-west, and blew so strong, that we 
were obliged to stop during the whole day. When I found this measure 
determined on, I resolved to avail myself of the opportunity to quit the 
valley of the Missouri, and examine the surrounding country. After 
travelling about three miles, I ascended the bluffs, and found that the 
face of the country, soil, &c. were entirely changed. As far as the eye 
could reach, not a single tree or shrub was visible. The whole of the 
stratum immediately below the vegetable mould, is a vast bed of 
exceedingly hard yellow clay. In the valleys, the land floods, during the 
rainy season, have worn channels so deep, and with the sides so 
precipitous, that a traveller is often under the necessity of proceeding a 
mile or two along one of these ravines before he can cross it. In the 
bottoms of several I observed evident indications of coal.

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27th.- The night had been very cold, and before we had been long on the 
river, the sides of the boats and the oars were covered with ice, although 
we were not farther north than 40 deg. After breakfast, I went out with 
the hunters, and found my hopes of a change in the vegetation realized. 
The bluffs forming the bounds of the river are no longer in part rocks, 
but a continued chain of rounded knobs of stiff clay: under these is a 
fine bed of bituminous coal, rendered visible wherever the river has 
washed away the base. This day I collected several new species of plants.

28th.- We breakfasted on one of the islands formed by La Platte Riviere, 
the largest river that falls into the Missouri. It empties itself into 
three channels, except in the time of its annual flood, when the 
intervening land is overflowed; it is then about a mile in breadth. We 
noticed this day the skeleton or frame of a skin canoe, in which the river 
had been crossed by Indians: we saw also other indications of war parties 
having been recently in the neighbourhood, and observed in the night the 
reflection of immense fires, occasioned by burning the prairies. At this 
late season,the fires are not made by the hunters to facilitate their 
hunting, but by war parties; and more particularly when returning 
unsuccessful, or after a defeat, to prevent their enemies from tracing 
their

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steps. As the ash discontinues to grow on the Missouri above this place, 
it was thought expedient to lay in a stock of oars and poles; and for that 
purpose, we stopped in the forenoon, about a league above the mouth of 
Papillon Creek, and I availed myself of this opportunity to visit the 
bluffs four or five miles distant from us, on the north-east side. On 
approaching them I found an extensive lake running along their base, 
across which I waded, the water in no part reaching higher than my breast. 
This lake had evidently been in former times the course of the river: its 
surface was much covered with aquatic plants, amongst which were nelumbium 
luteum and hydropeltis purpurea: on the broad leaves of the former a great 
number of water snakes were basking, which on my approach darted into the 
water. On gaining the summit of the bluffs, I was amply repaid by the 
grandeur of the scene that suddenly opened to my view, and also by the 
acquisition of a number of new plants. On looking into the valley of the 
Missouri from an elevation of about two hundred and fifty feet, the view 
was magnificent: the bluffs can be seen for more than thirty miles, 
stretching to the north-eastward in a right line, their summits varied by 
an infinity of undulations. The flat valley of the river, about six or 
seven miles in breadth, is partly prairie, but interspersed with clumps of 
the finest trees, through the intervals of which could be seen

Page 58

the majestic but muddy Missouri. The scene towards the interior of the 
country was extremely singular: it presents to the view a countless number 
of little green hills, apparently sixty or eighty feet in perpendicular 
height, and so steep, that it was with much difficulty I could ascend 
them; some were so acutely pointed, that two people would have found it 
difficult to stand on the top at the same time. I wandered among these 
mountains in miniature until late in the afternoon, when I recrossed the 
lake, and arrived at the boats soon after sun-set.

29th.- Being informed that the oars and poles would not be finished before 
noon, Mr. M'Kenzie obliged me by sending his boat to carry me across the 
river. I found the bluffs to be of a nature similar to those on the north-
east side. I met the boats in the afternoon, and we encamped about 
fourteen miles below the wintering house belonging to Mr. Crooks, who 
proposed to me that we should walk to it the following morning, along the 
bluffs; as the distance was much less by that route than by the course of 
the river.

30th.- I set out with Mr. Crooks at sunrise, for the wintering house, and 
travelled nearly a mile on a low piece of ground, covered with long grass: 
at its termination we ascended a small elevation,

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and entered on a plain of about eight miles in length, and from two and a 
half to three miles in breadth. As the old grass had been burned in the 
autumn, it was now covered with the most beautiful verdure, intermixed 
with flowers. It was also adorned with clumps of trees, sufficient for 
ornament, but too few to intercept the sight: in the intervals we counted 
nine flocks of elk and deer feeding, some of which we attempted to 
approach near enough to fire at, but without success. On arriving at the 
termination of the plain, our route lay along a series of the most rugged 
clay bluffs: some of them were in part washed away by the river, and 
exhibited perpendicular faces at least a hundred feet in height. At noon 
we arrived at the wintering house, and dined on dried buffaloe. In the 
evening the boats came up.

May 1st.- This day was employed in embarking some articles necessary for 
the voyage, together with Indian goods, and in the evening Mr. Crooks 
informed me that he intended to set out the next morning on foot, for the 
Ottoes, a nation of Indians on the Platte River, who owed him some beaver- 
From the Ottoes he purposed travelling to the Maha nation, about two 
hundred miles above us on the Missouri, where he should again meet the 
boats. I immediately offered to accompany him; he seemed much pleased, and 
we proceeded to cast

Page 60

bullets, and make other arrangements necessary for our journey.

2d.- At day-break we were preparing to depart, as also were the rest of 
the party, when an occurrence took place that delayed us until sunrise, 
and created a considerable degree of confusion. Amongst our hunters were 
two brothers of the name of Harrington, one of whom, Samuel Harrington, 
had been hunting on the Missouri for two years, and had joined the party 
in autumn: the other, William Harrington, had engaged at St. Louis, in the 
following March, and accompanied us from thence. The latter now avowed 
that he had engaged at the command of his mother, for the purpose of 
bringing back his brother, and they both declared their intention of 
abandoning the party immediately. As it had already been intimated to us 
at the Osage nation, that the Nodowessie, or Sioux Indians, intended to 
oppose our progress up the river, and as no great dependence was placed on 
our Canadians in case of an attack, the loss of two good riflemen was a 
matter of regret to us all. Mr. Hunt, although a gentleman of the mildest 
disposition, was extremely exasperated; and when it was found that all 
arguments and entreaties were unavailing, they were left, as it was then 
imagined, without a single bullet or a load of powder, four hundred

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miles at least from any white man's house, and six hundred and fifty from 
the mouth of the river. As soon as the final issue of this affair was 
known, Mr. Crooks and myself set out for the Otto village, attended by, 
two of the Canadians, one named Guardépée, the other La Liberté. Our 
equipments were, a blanket, a rifle, eighty bullets, a full powder horn a 
knife, and tomahawk, for each. Besides these, I had a large inflexible 
portfolio, containing several quires of paper, for the purpose of laying 
down specimens of plants; we had also a small camp-kettle, and a little 
jerked buffaloe meat. In half an hour we left the valley of the Missouri, 
and entered on the vast plain. We took our course S. S. E. which we held 
for some hours, and travelled at a great rate, hoping to reach the Platte 
that night, although estimated at forty-five miles from the place of our 
departure. A little before noon we saw four large animals at a great 
distance, which we supposed to be elk, but on crossing their footsteps 
some time afterwards, we found to our great satisfaction that they were 
buffaloe. In the afternoon we crossed two branches of Papillon Creek, and 
an hour before gun-set arrived at the Come du Cerf River, a deep clear 
stream, about eighty yards in breadth: it falls into the Platte about 
twenty miles below. As our Canadians could not swim, it was necessary to 
construct a raft, and we concluded to remain here for the

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night.

This arrangement was very agreeable to me, as I was much exhausted, which 
Mr. Crooks considered was, in a great measure, owing to my having drank 
water too copiously during the day. Although we had not eaten any thing 
from the time of our departure, I was unable to eat at supper, and lay 
down immediately.

3d.- We arose at day break. I found myself completely refreshed. Our raft 
being ready at sun-rise, we crossed the river, and in two hours arrived at 
the Platte, exactly opposite the Otto village. The river is here About 
eight hundred yards in breadth, but appears to be shallow, as its name 
indicates. The southern bank is wholly divested of timber, and as the 
village is situated on a declivity near the river, we could see the lodges 
very distinctly, but there was no appearance of Indians. We discharged our 
rifles, but the signal was not answered from the village: in about five 
minutes we heard the report of a gun down the river, and immediately 
proceeded towards the place. At the distance of half a mile, we arrived 
opposite to an island, on the point of which a white man was standing, who 
informed us that we could cross over to him by wading: we did not stop to 
take off our clothes, but went over immediately, the water reaching to our 
arm-pits. This man proved to be an American, of the name of Rogers, and 

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was employed as an interpreter by a Frenchman from St. Louis, who was also 
on the island with a few goods. They informed us that they had been 
concealed for some days on the island, having discovered a war party 
hovering round, belonging, as they supposed, to the Loup, or Wolf nation, 
who had come in order to surprise the Ottoes. They had nothing to give us 
as food, excepting some beaver flesh, which Rogers obtained by trapping on 
Come du Cerf, or Elk Horn River; as it was stale, and tasted fishy, I did 
not much relish it, but there was no alternative but to eat it or starve. 
We remained all day concealed on the island, and on the morning of the 
4th, before daylight, Rogers set out to look at his traps, on Elk Horn 
River, distant to the eastward not more than five miles. I accompanied 
him, and on crossing the channel of the Platte, found that in the same 
place where the day before it reached to our arm-pits, it did not now 
reach to our waists, although the river had not fallen. Such changes in 
the bottom of this river, Rogers told me were very frequent, as it is 
composed of a moving gravel, in which our feet sank to a considerable 
depth. We arrived at the Elk Horn River about sun-rise, but found no 
beaver in the traps. After our return to the island, I expressed a wish to 
visit the Otto village, which was in sight; and Rogers, who had a canoe 
concealed in the willows that surrounded the island,

Page 64

landed me on the other side of the river. I found the village to consist 
of about fifty-four lodges, of a circular form, and about forty feet in 
diameter, with a projecting part at the entrance, of ten or twelve feet in 
length, in the form of a porch. At almost every lodge, the door or 
entrance was closed after the manner which is customary with Indians when 
they go on hunting parties, and take their squaws and children with them. 
It consists in putting a few sticks across, in a particular manner, which 
they so exactly note and remember, as to be able to discover the least 
change in their position. Although anxious to examine the internal 
structure of the lodges, I did not violate the injunction conveyed by this 
slight obstruction, and after searching some time, found a few that were 
left entirely open. On entering one, I found the length of the porch to be 
an inclined plane to the level of the floor, about two and a half or three 
feet below the surface of the ground: round the area of the lodge are 
placed from fifteen to eighteen posts, forked at the top, and about seven 
feet high from the floor. In the centre, a circular space of about eight 
feet in diameter is dug to the depth of two feet; four strong posts are 
placed in the form of a square, about twelve feet asunder, and at equal 
distances from this space: these posts are about twenty feet high, and 
cross pieces are laid on the tops. The rafters are laid from the forked 

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tops of the outside posts over these cross pieces, and reach nearly to the 
centre, where a small hole is left for the smoke to escape: across the 
rafters small pieces of timber are laid; over these, sticks and a covering 
of sods, and lastly earth. The fire is made in the middle of the central 
space, round the edges of which they sit, and the beds are fixed betwixt 
the outer posts. The door is placed at the immediate entrance into the 
lodge: it is made of a buffalo skin, stretched in a frame of wood, and is 
suspended from the top. On entering, it swings forward, and when let go, 
it falls to its former position. On my return to the island, Mr. Crooks 
informed me that he had resolved to send Rogers to find the Ottoes, who 
were hunting about twenty miles from us, in order to collect his debts, or 
to procure horses for us, to facilitate our journey to the Maha nation.

5th.-In the morning early, Rogers set out on his expedition, and returned 
on the 6th, without having obtained any beaver or horses, excepting one 
horse belonging to Mr. Crooks. This night I procured from Rogers what 
information I could relative to the Otto nation, and was informed that the 
Missouris are incorporated with them; that they are their descendants, and 
speak the same language. They call themselves Wad-doké-tah-tah, and can 
muster one hundred and thirty

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or one hundred and forty warriors. They are now at war with the Loups or 
Wolf Indians, the Osages, and the Sioux. He said they furnish a 
considerable quantity of bear, deer, and beaver skins, and are very well 
disposed towards their traders, who may safely credit them. They do not 
claim the property of the land on which they live, nor any other tract. A 
very considerable part of the surrounding country formerly belonged to the 
Missouris, who were once the most powerful nation on the Missouri river, 
but have been reduced by war and the small pox to be dependent on the 
Ottoes, by whom they are treated as inferiors. Rogers had with him a squaw 
of the Maha nation, with her child, whom he wished to send with us to her 
father. To this Mr. Crooks consented, and early on the morning of the 7th 
we set out, putting the squaw and her child on the horse. Having crossed 
over from the island, we steered a due north course, and came to the Elk 
Horn River, after travelling about ten miles. Mr. Crooks immediately 
stripped, to examine if the river was fordable, and found that, excepting 
about twenty yards in the middle, we might wade it. I offered to carry the 
child, but the squaw refused, and after stripping herself, she gave me her 
clothes, put the child on her neck, and swam over, the little creature 
sticking to her hair. After assisting our Canadians across, we continued 
along

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the bank, in expectation of arriving at the creek, distant about five 
miles, which comes in a direction from the north. We observed, that as our 
distance from the island increased, the reluctance of the squaw to proceed 
also increased, and soon after we had crossed the river, she began to cry, 
and declared she would go no farther. Mr. Crooks, who understood the 
language, remonstrated with her; but finding it in vain, he ordered 
Guardépée to take her back, and we encamped to wait his return.

8th.- About two o'clock in the morning Guardépée returned with the horse, 
and at day-light we set out. In about an hour we came to the creek, and 
continued along its banks, and found ourselves in a short time on a most 
beautiful prairie, along which the creek flowed, without having a single 
tree on its border, or even a shrub, excepting a few widely scattered plum 
bushes. We shot this day two prairie hens, (tetrao umbellus) on which we 
supped, having dined on some jerked buffalo, brought by Rogers from the 
Ottoes. We slept on the border of the creek, but not so comfortably as 
usual, as the dew was so copious, that before morning our blankets were 
wet through.

9th.- We continued to pursue our course along the creek, but with great 
trouble, as our mockassons,

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being of untanned skins, became so soft as to render it difficult to keep 
them on our feet. We shot a prairie hen, and prepared to breakfast, having 
first relieved the horse from the baggage, and turned him out to graze. 
Whilst we were collecting some dry stalks of plants to boil our kettle, a 
herd of elk, nineteen in number, appeared marching towards the creek, and 
Guardépée immediately ran to put himself in such a position that he might 
fire at them, when the horse took fright, broke his tie, and gallopped 
off. Guardépée fired, but only wounded one so slightly that it ran off 
with the rest, and escaped. The horse took the direct route back towards 
the Ottoes, and was followed by Mr. Crooks and Guardépée ; but in vain: 
they gave up the chase, finding it impossible to recover him. After we had 
breakfasted, we threw the saddle and every thing belonging to the horse 
into the creek; each man took his share of the baggage, and we again set 
out, and travelled without stopping until evening, when we arrived at the 
head of the creek, and came to what is called a dividing ridge(13). We 
passed over it, and came to the head of a creek, running in a N. E. 
direction. This we supposed to be Blackbird Creek, which falls into the 
Missouri, near the monument of a famous chief of the

Page 69

Mahas, named Blackbird. At the distance of about two miles, we saw a small 
clump of trees on the border of the creek, and resolved to remain there 
during the night, hoping to find fuel to boil a small portion of jerked 
buffalo, being all we had left. Whilst the supper was preparing, I walked 
back to an eminence, to collect some interesting plants, having noticed 
them in passing. I had not been long employed in that way, when I saw a 
distant flash of lightning in the south, and soon after others in quick 
succession. As these and other appearances indicated the approach of a 
violent storm, I hastened back to recommend precautions for the security 
of our arms and ammunition. Having boiled our meat, which amounted to a 
few morsels each, we secured our powder horns and some tow in our camp 
kettle, which we inverted, and discharged our rifles. Excepting the sound 
of distant thunder, which was continual, an awful silence prevailed, and 
the cloud which had already spread over one half of the visible horizon, 
was fast shutting out the little remains of daylight. As the trees 
afforded us no fuel, and in a few minutes would become no shelter, but 
might endanger our safety, I recommended that we should go to the open 
prairie, which we did, and lay down in our blankets: I put my plants under 
me. For several hours the thunder, lightning, and rain were incessant, and 
such rain as I have seldom witnessed.