A Campaign in New Mexico - Chapters VII-Appendix



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CHAPTER VII.
Orders to proceed south. San Juan. General Wool, and was there such a man! 
Battle field of Buena Vista. Mexican shells. The buried Mexicans. 
Falsehood of Santa Anna. General Wool and a review. Compliments; and plain 
speaking. Saltillo. The prettiest girl. Mexican women. A regular soldier's 
ignorance. Bishop's palace and Monterey. Walnut Springs. General Taylor 
Doniphan's account to Taylor of the battle of Sacramento. Leave Walnut 
Springs. Horrible sight of the remains of the wagon-train surprised by 
Urrea. Dead Mexican, and how killed. John Smith, a Texian ranger. 
Brutality of the rangers; and execution of a brave Mexican. Camargo and 
its canvas houses. A man shot; and revenge. Armadillos, and a story. 
Description of the soil and its productions. Steamboat seen once again. 
The Rio Grande and its windings. Burning of saddles, etc. Embarkation and 
home.

WE here received orders to proceed southward; and after resting two days, 
again moved on. Looking back on Parras, the scene was beautiful; 
interspersed, as it was, with palms, lemon trees and vineyards. A short 
distance from this town is a large hacienda, which the owner is trying to 
arrange in American style. Thoughts of home were awakened by the sight of 
the first peaked roof that we had seen since we left Missouri.

On the twentieth we encamped at San Juan, the scene of a battle between 
Santa Anna and the Spaniards, during their

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revolution, as well as of a skirmish between a part of Taylor's force and 
the Mexicans.

The next day we pitched our tents at Encantada, half a mile from the 
battle-field of Buena Vista; and found a regiment of Arkansas cavalry 
encamped on the field. The next day a question, which had been frequently 
agitated in our camp, Was there really such a man as General Wool? (for we 
had gone some two thousand miles wool-gathering), was to be satisfied: he 
having now sent us word that he should review us the next day. We were 
certainly to have seen him at El Poso; we were positively to have aided 
him in the taking of Chihuahua: and he was most undoubtedly to receive us 
at Parras!

But now, we had unearthed out game; General Wool was certainly encamped 
only six miles off, in the direction of Saltillo. Some of us took the 
opportunity of going over tho battle-field of Buena vista; and it well 
repaid the trouble. The American position, under the hills upon which 
Santa Anna had posted his artillery, was sufficiently marked by the 
ploughed-up ground, caused by the Mexican cannon-shot, and by marks of 
what had been pools of blood. It must have been a dreadful struggle. 
Remnants of uniform were strewed around, and one of my companions picked 
up a half of one of Santa Anna's forty-two pound shells. 

I have understood that all the Mexican shells burst exactly in halves, 
which was on account of the bad powder used to fill them; the service of a 
shell being, of course, increased according to the smallness of the 
fragments into which it splits. The half we found could not have been 
fractured more evenly

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with tools. 

On one part of the field is a long row of stones, I believe some three 
hundred in number, laid at the side of a trench in which the dead Mexicans 
were buried by their countrymen; and so slightly are they covered, that 
here an arm sticks out and there a leg. A stone was placed for each body 
deposited in the trench. I deem it unnecessary to give a description of 
the field; and would only remark upon the falsehood of Santa Anna's 
statement, that his army had been without food and water for forty-eight 
hours previous to, and during this battle; for one of his generals has 
since published a statement showing that he had several hundred head of 
beef-cattle, while a fine stream of water runs directly through the battle-
ground.

The next day, the twenty-second of May, General Wool came over with his 
staff}, in full uniform, and a guard of honor. After a formal review, he 
decided to keep our American battery of six pieces, but arranged that we 
should take the Mexican guns home. The next morning, as we passed his 
camp, the artillery company marched into it to deliver the guns; -- and 
General Wool made many complimentary remarks, and, among others, gave us 
to understand that we were covered with glory. This might be; but we were 
certainly not covered with it as with a garment. General Wool, turning to 
our major, remarked, that he should be very much pleased, indeed, to 
retain the company; but Major Clark told him that his boys had been too 
badly treated to wish to reenlist." But, "returned Wool," it shall be my 
endeavor to make them forget that, and I promise, if they will remain, 
they shall be treated in the best manner."

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"That's what they told us when we started," gruffly responded the major. 
The general said no more.(*)

We passed through Saltillo the next day; and I was agreeably surprised to 
find it such a large and handsome place. The cathedral is beautiful, and 
most of the houses are high and ornamental. The inhabitants turned out to 
see us; and I beheld the prettiest girl I saw in all Mexico, standing at 
the door of a mean-looking dwelling in the main street. Her complexion, of 
marble whiteness, showed delicately a slight rosy color in the cheek, 
while her beautiful large dark swimming eyes, with their accompanying 
heavy lashes and eyebrows, rested with a pitying expression upon me -- for 
I was lying at the time in a wagon on account of sickness. Oh the beauty 
of the exquisite Spanish word pobrecito, (poor fellow) when heard from 
such lips -- the sweetest of all sweet sounds.

The Mexican women in general are not handsome, for they commonly want the 
clear complexion, which we deem inseparable from beauty; but they have 
that large dark swimming eye, a lip usually high colored, and good teeth. 
But their principal charm lies in their manner. In entering a house, which 
you may do, even though a stranger, and be

(* Indeed, our treatment had been throughout very hard. Sometimes we were 
almost starved; and we did not receive, except during the last month of 
our time, the full rations of food allowed by law to United States 
soldiers; and, on our arrival at New Orleans, our pay was also reduced a 
dollar a month, and we even then only received twelve and a half cents a 
day as commutation money for forage for our horses, during the time we 
received no corn from the government; whereas, I had frequently paid from 
fifty cents to seventy-five cents a day for my horse's provender.)

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sure of a welcome from its owners, the senoras, without rising, offer you 
a seat, and are ready at once to converse with you on any subject, and 
this with a piquancy and naivete exceedingly attractive to a foreigner. It 
is a pleasure to meet some pretty dona of your acquaintance after a short 
absence. Wherever it may be, she immediately grasps your hand, draws you 
towards her, passes her arm round your waist, and presses you gently to 
her. This habit, of course, struck us at first as singular and rather 
forward, but the perfect nonchalance with which a lady friend will thus 
press you to her heart, perhaps every day, soon shows that it is, in 
reality, only a common kindly recognition. But the gusto and real grace 
with which two dirty old beggars will thus hug each other, is a singular 
sight. This mode of greeting is not confined to either sex.

The day before we arrived at General Wool's camp, we had polished up our 
American cannon so that we could see our bearded faces in them. While we 
lay there, a "regular" of Wool's army, (one of Washington's battery,) was 
examining them; while standing around were several of our men. 

"Why," said the regular, "these guns are quite new, a'n't they? You've 
never fired them, I suppose." 

This remark awakened the ire of one of our men, particularly as the 
regular calls himself a veteran, and looks down upon a ragged volunteer; 
and he tartly responded: 

"No, of course not; what do you think we found to fire at, you fool? But 
those pieces," pointing to our captured Mexican guns, "have been fired 
several times. By the by, Mr. Regular," added he, "what do you do with all 
the pieces you capture?" 

He of

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Washington's battery, completely crest-fallen, said, 

"We haven't captured any yet!" 

This the inquirer well knew, and also that, at Buena Vista, instead of 
taking any cannon, they had, in fact, lost three pieces. But the idea that 
any "regular" should not have heard of our gallant little battle, was 
rather annoying.

On the twenty-fifth, we encamped two miles from the celebrated Bishop's 
Palace, near Monterey. The capture of this massive stone building, which, 
from its position, was easily defensible, had proved a difficult and 
bloody undertaking, for, besides the building, there is a high stone 
enclosure, in front, which must have been carried only after a hard 
struggle. The edifice had, evidently, been a fine one; but it was now 
almost in ruins. The tremendous effect of artillery could here be 
observed. I remarked where a ball had entered the door, and, glancing off 
the side of the massive stair-case, had passed through, first a strong 
stone wall, which supplied the place of hand-rail, then through a 
partition wall, and then through the side of the house-the two last walls 
being of large stones, firmly cemented. As we marched through Monterey, we 
passed, to our left, the cemetery in which Worth had placed his mortar, 
when bombarding the city. Monterey is beautifully situated in a very rich 
valley; it is a place of considerable size, and has been a fine city. But 
the houses are very much cut up by musket and cannon ball. One of the 
principal public buildings, I understood it had been the custom-house, was 
completely destroyed in the siege. The wall surrounding the plaza is 
pierced at every short distance with port-holes,

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through which the inhabitants fired upon their assailants. The church 
itself bears numerous marks of balls. In front of the windows of all large 
houses in Mexico are gratings of iron, very often fancifully ornamented, 
and which form a cage about a foot deep round each window. In passing 
through the streets, many of these might be observed through which cannon 
balls had passed, cutting and twisting a gap through, perhaps, twenty 
bars; and there were many house walls upon which a hand could not be 
placed without covering the mark of a musket ball.

The Mexican houses are well adapted for a street fight, as, from the flat 
roofs above which the walls rise to a height of about two feet, a constant 
fire could be kept up without exposing any part of the person, while the 
streets, from being entirely unobstructed, present a clear sweep for the 
musketeer on the house-top.

We passed, on the road three miles beyond Monterey, the Black Fort, which 
had resisted Taylor in his attack on the city. At that time it was not 
finished, but has been since completed by the general's orders, and is 
rendered almost impregnable. It is advantageously situated, and there are 
many heavy guns mounted in it -- among them are two very beautiful long 
"forty-two's," of English manufacture, several Spanish and many American 
pieces. There is one large gun with which the Mexicans attempted to send a 
shell to Taylor's camp at Walnut Springs, (three miles,) but putting in 
too much powder, the whole breech flew out and killed numbers of the 
sapient artillerists. There is also a Mexican piece, which, in one of the 
battles, received a ball directly in

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the muzzle, knocking out a large piece of the under-part of the mouth.

About noon we encamped at Walnut Springs. We saw nothing of Old Rough and 
Ready for some hours afterwards, although we were near to the General's 
tent. In the afternoon, a rather common-looking man, dressed in a check 
shirt, fancy trowsers of common stuff, brown holland coat, and large straw 
hat, was observed examining our Mexican pieces of cannon very attentively; 
and it was soon whispered around, "that's him!" His whole appearance was 
such a contrast to Wool, for the latter came to our camp in full uniform, 
and in review style, that this unceremoniousness took us pleasantly by 
surprise. Many of our men, who had served with him in Florida, went up and 
shook hands with him, and were delighted to find he had remembered them. 
General Taylor hardly needs description now; and yet it is by no means an 
easy task to give it. His face, if it were not for the soul's expression 
there, would be considered far from handsome. But that simple, good and 
firm look which beams from his eyes is indescribable. In figure he is 
short, and -- to use an ordinary but expressive phrase -- stumpy, being 
inclined to embonpoint; and yet, when you hear him speak, you feel that a 
man not of the common mould stands before you. I was surprised to observe 
that his orderly servant was exactly the opposite in appearance to his 
officer, for although Taylor is by no means slovenly in his dress, yet 
there is a comfortable abandon about him that shows he takes no pride in 
dress: -- while his orderly is the very pink

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of soldiers, being a young man of very fine form, and with long glossy 
black ringlets descending to his shoulders.

While we were at Walnut Springs, General Taylor addressed Colonel Doniphan 
thus: 

"By the by, Colonel, every one is talking of your charge at Sacramento. I 
understand it was a brilliant affair. I wish you would give me a 
description of it, and of your manoeuvres." 

"Manoeuvres be hanged," returned Doniphan, and added, "I don't know 
anything about the charge, except that my boys kept coming to me to let 
them charge, but I would not permit them; for I was afraid they would all 
be cut to pieces. At last, I saw a favorable moment and told them they 
might go -- they were off like a shot -- and that's all I know about it!"

We left Walnut Springs about noon on the twenty-seventh of May, and 
continued our route to Camargo, where we were to take boat for the mouth 
of the Rio Grande. On the road we met with two thousand five hundred pack 
mules, carrying provisions for the army, on their way to Monterey. At 
sundown we encamped at Marin. General Taylor had ridden out with us two or 
three miles, and then, bidding us farewell in the kindest manner, returned 
to his camp.

The next day, we passed the place where the large train of wagons was 
burnt by Urrea's men, about the same time that the battle of Buena Vista 
was fought.

It was, indeed, even then a horrible sight to behold; and disgrace must 
ever attach to those officers having charge of the wagon-part of the 
quarter-master's department, who allowed the poor drivers to go unarmed, 
and the wagons to proceed with so exceedingly slight an escort. Every here 
and

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there were the burnt remains of wagons which the brutal Mexicans set fire 
to without unharnessing the mules from them, so that the frightened 
animals dashed off until they became wedged among the trees, where they 
were burnt with the wagons -- and the bones of the slaughtered drivers 
were lying about in alI directions. A spot was pointed out to me where one 
of the teamsters had been staked down, and then inhumanly butchered inch 
by inch; -- others were burnt alive, and but few escaped.

A few steps from this scene, I beheld the dried-up body of a Mexican, who 
met his death under the following circumstances. An Arkansas cattle-driver 
had been to Monterey on business, and was returning with some soldiers who 
were carrying an express down to the mouth of the river; but the drover 
lagged behind some two or three hundred yards, when a Mexican shot at him 
from the side of the road. The ball fractured his thigh, and he fell from 
his horse. His assailant, thinking he was dead, jumped upon him, when the 
drover, drawing his pistol, shot him. The soldiers, returning on hearing 
the shots, left the Mexican to become the withered example I saw, and took 
the drover to Ceralvo, where his leg was amputated; and from this 
operation he was just recovering, when he caught the small-pox, and, at 
the time we passed through that place, was dying.

At this same Ceralvo we arrived on the twenty-ninth. It is one of the few 
places which Taylor did not destroy along the road: -- he had been 
compelled to lay waste most of the ranchos and small towns, on account of 
their affording concealment to parties of guerillas who would occasion-

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ally rob the wagon trains. We only halted here a few hours to rest, 
intending to proceed fifteen miles further in the cool of the afternoon. 
The heat had now become so excessive as to render it almost impossible to 
march in the middle of the day.

Taking a stroll through the town of Ceralvo, I found, sitting under a 
tree, dealing monte, a genuine specimen of the Texian ranger. His name, he 
said, was John Smith -- a name which I thought I had heard before. In 
height he was about six feet four inches, of a stout sinewy frame, dressed 
in a mongrel attire, his coat being of American manufacture, his 
pantaloons Mexican, and his belt Indian. A fine white shirt, open some 
distance down, tied with a black silk handkerchief, studiedly knotted, and 
a Mexican sombrero, completed his dress. By his side was standing his 
younger brother, about fifteen years old, dressed, with little variation, 
in the same style, and with two enormous silver-mounted holster pistols in 
his waist, one under each arm. The elder also had a quantity of silver 
buttons and little ornaments upon his hatband and clothes; while, on the 
faces of both, the word desperado was indelibly stamped. I sat down by 
John Smith and drew him into conversation. He told me that the United 
States did not give the rangers any rations either for man or horse, but 
paid an equivalent; and that they procured their subsistence out of the 
Mexicans. And the process of doing this he thus graphically described: 
"Waal, you see when we want anything, a few of us start off to some rich 
hacienda near here, and tell the proprietor that in half an hour we must 
have so much of provisions. Waal, of course he don't

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like that much, so he refuses. One of us then just knots a lasso round the 
old devil's neck, and fastens it to his saddlebow, first passing it over a 
limb of some tree; then mounting his horse he starts off a few feet giving 
him a hoist, and then returns dropping him down again. After a few such 
swings, he soon provides what we have called for. Perhaps you think we've 
done with him then, eh? Not by a long shot. We have to jerk him a few 
times more, and then the money or gold-dust is handed out. When we've got 
everything out of him we let the yellow devil go. We don't hurt him much, 
and he soon gets over it." Who can wonder at the Mexican becoming a 
guerilla!

I have been credibly informed that when these rangers are sent out on 
scouting parties, a Mexican guide is generally provided, but that he never 
returns; the Texians always shooting him on some pretext or other before 
he gets back. Their usual mode is to frighten him with threats, and, after 
putting him under guard, to have one of their number go up to the poor 
fellow, and advise him to run off immediately, he sees the sentinel's back 
is turned. This he does, and the sentinel, having received his cue, shoots 
him while attempting to escape. One of the most dastardly acts I ever 
heard of was perpetrated by half a dozen Texian officers a short time 
before we came down. They had lost their way, and hired a Mexican to show 
them to their camp, which he faithfully performed; but when they came in 
sight of it, they drew lots who should shoot their faithful and 
unsuspecting guide -- the one on whom the lot fell, immediately drew a 
pistol and shot him.

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Most of these rangers are men who have been either prisoners in Mexico, 
or, in some way, injured by Mexicans, and they, therefore, spare none, but 
shoot down every one they meet. It is said that the bushes, skirting the 
road from Monterey southward, are strewed with skeletons of Mexicans 
sacrificed by these desperadoes.

While we rested at Ceralvo, I witnessed the execution of a Mexican 
supposed to be one of Urrea's lawless band. The Texians pretended to 
consider him as such; but there was no doubt that this was only used as a 
cloak to cover their insatiable desire to destroy those they so bitterly 
hate. A furlough was found upon this Mexican, from his army, to visit his 
family, ending as our furloughs do, that should he overstay his leave of 
absence, he would be considered a deserter. This time he had considerably 
overstayed; and he himself stated that he had never intended to return, 
being in favor of the Americans. But the rangers tried him by a court-
martial; and adjudged him to be shot that very day. As the hour struck, he 
was led into the public plaza; and five rangers took their post a few feet 
off, as executioners. The condemned coolly pulled out his flint and steel, 
and little paper-cigarito; and, striking a light, commenced smoking as 
calmly as can possibly be imagined, and -- in two minutes -- fell a 
corpse, with the still smoking cigarito yet between his lips. I did not 
see a muscle of his face quiver, when the rifles were levelled at him, but 
he looked coolly at his executioners, pressing a small cross, which hung 
to his neck, firmly against his breast. I turned from the scene sickened 
at heart.

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The habit is universal among the Mexicans of both sexes of wearing around 
the neck a medal or cross, usually suspended by a small rosary. The 
medals, which are of brass and of English manufacture, often bear the 
figure and name of the patron saint of the wearer, but most of them are 
stamped with the form and name of "The Lady of Guadalupe" -- of whom many 
miraculous tales are told; and on the reverse of the medal is the 
inscription, Non fecit taliter omni nationii,, which a late writer on 
Mexico translates, wittily, She never made such a fool of any other 
nation. The crosses are often of silver or gold. The love of ornament and 
false jewelry among the lower orders of the Mexicans is remarkable. Every 
man and woman have their fingers loaded with common brass rings set with 
glass; and one of the most profitable articles of sale carried out by the 
traders, are the common gilt trinkets, usually styled Paris jewelry.

On the night of the thirtieth, we encamped at Mier, the scene of one of 
the bloodiest struggles of the Texian Revolution between the Texians, who 
had invaded the country, and the Mexican army. The buildings still stand 
in which General Green and his little band made such a desperate 
resistance against more than thrice their force, armed, too, with 
artillery. Now, in riding through the place, you find such signs as these: 
"Rough and Ready Eating House." "Hot Coffee and Cakes;" "Taylor's Hotel. 
Good Segars."

We reached Camargo on the thirty-first; but found that the Rio Grande, 
which we here first saw again since leaving El Poso, was too low to allow 
steamboats to come up thus

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far -- indeed, to me there was no perceptible difference in the appearance 
of the river, from what it was where we had left its banks, a thousand 
miles above. Camargo has now become a place of some importance, for, 
although there are but few substantial dwellings, yet there are quite a 
large number of canvas houses used for the protection of provisions and 
other stores landed from the steamboats, when the river is high, and sent 
hence in wagons to the army. These canvas houses are of immense extent, 
and stand in a cluster, surrounded by a trench and embankment. The River 
San Juan, which empties itself into the Rio Grande at this point, is 
ferried by means of flatboats guided by large ropes stretched from bank to 
bank.

We had brought several of the great traders' wagons down with us; and 
these immense machines, with their long ten-mule teams, proved a source of 
wonder and amusement to the teamsters who were here driving the United 
States wagons -- they using moderate-sized light vehicles, drawn by only 
five mules. The latter are not so well adapted to this country as the 
large ones; and so thought the quarter-master stationed here, for he at 
once relieved us from most of our wagon-train, and tried to hire some of 
our old and experienced drivers for the ten-mule teams, which he intended 
to put on the road at once. But, although he offered sixty dollars a 
month, and double rations, he could not procure a single hand, they having 
a great dislike to the regulars.

An attempt was also made by two of our officers, to induce some of us to 
re-enlist during the war, but this object could

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not be accomplished; we were for going home to Sarah and the children! -- 
and for our pay, as even up to this point we had received none.

We marched but nine miles during the first morning we left Camargo; and 
before we reached our resting-place; we lost a man named Swain. He had 
very incautiously gone ahead of our advanced guard, some two or three 
hundred yards, and was riding through the muskeet bushes which skirt the 
road, and only a few paces from it, when he received a bullet in the back, 
killing him instantly. The advance guard pressed on, hearing the report, 
and caught sight of five mounted Spaniards going off at full speed. They 
chased them for some distance; but lost them on account of a deep gully 
which crossed their path. A few miles further, and we came to a town (the 
name of which I have forgotten), where we were to rest until the 
afternoon; and the guard, having observed that the Mexicans who had 
committed the outrage had taken this direction, searched the town, and 
found, at one house, five Mexicans, who evidently had just come off a 
journey, and also a like number of mules, the backs of which were yet wet 
from their saddles. On questioning the men, they said the mules did not 
belong to them, and that they had no saddles in the house; but, on 
searching, five were found, evidently only just removed from the backs of 
the mules. The Mexicans were at once arrested, and taken to the quarter-
master who was stationed here. In spite of the evident guilt of the men, 
this officer said that he knew them, that they were in his employ, and 
that they could not be guilty. He removed them from our custody, and 
placed them in

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charge of his own guard. This incensed the messmates of poor Swain, and 
they vowed vengeance. Eight of them, mostly neighbors, at home, of his 
family, remained concealed behind us, and, as the quarter-master's guard 
escorted the suspected men out of the town, and turned them free, each 
Mexican received a rifle-ball, and never moved again. The avengers then 
proceeded to the house where the culprits had been found, and, after 
shooting two who were there, having since come in, burnt it to the ground, 
and quietly and coolly followed us.

News had been brought to us that five steamboats were lying at Reinosa; 
and several regiments, which had been discharged by Taylor, being also on 
the march for that place, we were obliged to push on as fast as possible, 
in order that we might get the first chance. This we did, and we managed 
to get ahead of all but one regiment, which was only a few hours' march 
before us; so it was resolved to push on all this night, in order to reach 
Reinosa by sunrise. At midnight, as we were moving as rapidly as possible, 
we came upon the above regiment encamped; and they, perceiving our object, 
at once struck tents, and came after us; but we had got too much the start 
of them, and they did not arrive at Reinosa until after our officers had 
secured the only two available boats; three others being hard aground on 
the bar below the town, and the water falling fast.

In coming down the road, our men caught three armadillos. A soldier amused 
me one evening, by describing his encounter with one of these harmless 
creatures. It seems, he had gone among the bushes to shoot a deer which he 
had

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seen pass, when, as he said, an armadillo, the like of which he had never 
seen before, ran at him! (quite an improbability,) caused his mule to 
rear, and he, shooting the animal instanter, never stopped to examine it, 
but hurried back as fast as possible to the ranks.

The general appearance of the country has not been previously mentioned. 
The whole extent of what we had travelled through, except just along the 
banks of streams, is of the most barren description, being principally 
composed of a hard yellow clay, so poor that, in most places, grass cannot 
be raised. I have travelled more than a hundred miles at a time without 
seeing sufficient grass to furnish my horse with a meal, and without 
meeting with a stone as large as a pebble. The roads, except in a few 
places where they happen to cross mountains, are excellent, being as hard 
and level as a floor. The land can only be cultivated just along the banks 
of the streams; and there the fertility of the soil amply repays the 
farmer, as the crops do not seem to exhaust the ground. Many farmers work 
the same ground fifty years or more, without spreading upon it a particle 
of manure. The seasons are also favorable to the husbandman. Rain, 
however, is rare. Before we left El Poso, which was in January, the 
inhabitants were ploughing and sowing corn. I have no doubt that, were the 
Mexicans not so excessively lazy, they might produce anything they chose; 
but when they have put seed into the ground, they think they have done 
enough; and if it should not come up and the plant thrive, instead of 
doing as we should, setting to work to remedy it, they simply "call on 
Hercules;" in other words, fall upon their knees

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at the altar before the priest, tell him how unfortunate they have been, 
buy a blessing from him, and go home in blessedness. The inhabitants 
produce maize, wheat, oats, onions, melons, grapes and several other 
fruit. I never saw any potatoes, although, as we know, it is currently 
said that the root grows wild in the southern parts of Mexico. I have seen 
as fine melons, grapes and corn in Mexico as I have observed anywhere; and 
I have purchased onions as large as an ordinary sized dinner plate.

The first sight of the steamboat pipes on the Rio Grande was hailed by us 
with three cheers, for they were the first we had seen since we left 
Missouri, and we now felt sure we were getting towards home-and perhaps 
the feeling was increased with me, for it happened to be my birth-day. All 
the sick were put into the first boat the next morning. They numbered 
about one hundred and fifty, and then about as many more were crowded in. 
Our voyage lasted four days, we stopping every evening at sundown, when we 
would land to cook and sleep.

The Rio Grande can never be considered a navigable river, for this it is 
not even for the very smallest steamboat higher up than Reinosa, except in 
extraordinary stages of water; and even in the few miles we sailed down 
it, we were almost all the time struggling over sand-bars, and the river 
was so crooked that there was hardly room for the boat to turn properly. 
The scarcity of wood along its bank will always be a drawback to its 
navigation; but still the little wood found is of the best quality, being 
mostly ebony and lignum vitae, which, from the great quantity of oil 
contained

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in them, make an intense fire. The windings of the Rio Grande are 
remarkable. There is one hacienda on its banks which a boat passes in 
front of seven times, after coming in sight of, and before actually 
reaching it: -- the river making seven close convolutions east and west in 
perhaps twelve miles of country; and there is one of the turns where you 
pass a long low bank for five miles, and can look over and see the river 
again not one hundred feet from you on the other edge. Thus, after sailing 
in reality ten miles along, the voyager has actually only advanced two 
hundred yards south. The banks and channels of the river are continually 
changing, and the sand of which the former are wholly composed, is 
constantly being washed down and filling up the bed of the river.

Colonel Doniphan here published an order from the Secretary of War, 
requiring him to detail ten men from each company to take the horses of 
the whole command to Missouri by the way of Texas; but a difficulty arose 
from an inability to find men willing to prolong their term of service, 
which had, in fact, already expired, because such a journey would occupy 
two months, whereas we might go at once to New Orleans in less than two 
weeks. At last, the affair was settled by a sergeant agreeing to take any 
number of the horses at five dollars a head; and he thus collected several 
hundred of them. The officers, whose duty it was to see to the shipping of 
the returned volunteers, notified us that, with the exception of blankets, 
arms and clothing, nothing would be transported for us, and we were thus 
reduced to the necessity of leaving our saddles and other things on the 
banks of the river. The equipments, thus about to be left, were looked

Page 164

at with wistful eyes by the lower order of Mexicans, so we piled them in a 
large heap and burnt them. All our extra blankets, buffalo robes, and 
everything we could spare, we cast upon the pile. I observed a Mexican 
knocked over by one of our men for offering him one dollar for his saddle, 
the latter declaring that a saddle which had carried a Missourian so many 
miles as his had, should not be sold to a Mexican for twenty dollars -- 
and it was instantly committed to the flames.

We passed Matamoros on one side and Fort Brown on the other, but were not 
permitted to land. The next evening we encamped at the mouth of the river, 
and found there a New York regiment, waiting for a boat to take them up; 
and among the officers, I recognized old acquaintances, and heard home 
news. One of the officers desired to know from me, how we had fared? and 
when I had given him a few items, he thought it rather tough; "but," 
observed he, "we shall be treated better," adding, with a sneer, "we are 
not volunteers, we are regulars."

We lay encamped here until noon of the ninth of June, when we moved to 
Brazos Santiago. I believe that the position of this place is not properly 
understood. It is simply an island formed by a shallow arm of the sea, 
which is nearly dry at low tide on the western side, where the water is 
narrow which separates it from the projection of land forming the mouth of 
the river. On the north-east, across the strip of water, which is here of 
considerable depth, is Point Isabel, now the site of a fine hospital, 
being the only kind of building that should ever be permitted upon that 
barren sand bank,

Page 165

which has proved destructive to many brave soldiers. One regiment alone 
left three hundred, who had died there of fever. The island of Brazos is 
supposed to have been the site of one of the largest and richest of the 
ancient Mexican cities, but which was swallowed up by the sea.

Our embarkation for New Orleans was in two vessels, one of them a small 
bark, wherein myself and some three hundred and fifty companions were 
packed. Her hold, containing one hundred double berths, was in such a 
filthy condition that we preferred the deck as a sleeping-place, and it 
was a struggle with us who should get his blanket first on deck, as those 
who were crowded out were compelled to go below. We ran short of water, 
and began to think ourselves on a worse jornada than ever.

Oh! the relief felt after almost four thousand miles of rough travel,(*) 
as we reached New Orleans, and placed our feet once more upon American 
soil! We were still in our tattered clothes, with unshorn beards and 
without a cent in our pockets; but "Sarah and the children" were now not 
far off!

(* See table of distances traversed, in the Appendix No. 4.)



Page 168

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX No. I.
SEMI-OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE BATTLE OF BRACITO.

Detachment of Missouri Light Artillery. Camp below Bracito, Rio Grande, 
Dec. 26, 1846.

Dear Sir: -- I can only write to you a few lines, being upon the point of 
breaking up camp. Our detachment overtook Col. Doniphan's command at Fra 
Cristobal. Major Gilpin, with 250 men, had previously left for El Poso, 
and Col. Jackson was following with 200 men. Col. Doniphan had but 150 men 
with him, the remainder of his regiment being sick, attending on sick, and 
detached through the country. From Fra Cristobal our detachment marched 
with Colonel Doniphan south. When at the Laguna of the jornada del Muerte, 
news reached us through an express sent by Major Gilpin that the Mexicans 
had determined to resist at El Poso, and had collected a considerable 
number of troops intending to give us battle. An express had been sent to 
Santa Fe for part of the artillery under Major Clark, but no news had as 
yet reached us from there, so that a detachment of 30 men from the three 
companies of our corps are all that are here from the battalion. At the 
southern end of the jornada, ten miles north of Dona Ana, the traders had 
encamped. Contradictory rumors of the enemy's approach reached us daily.

Yesterday (Christmas day), when we had just arrived in camp

Page 170

here with but 600 men, had unsaddled our animals, and most of the men 
engaged in carrying wood and water, the news was brought into camp of the 
enemy's being in sight and advancing. It was about 2 o'clock P. M., and 
the day was very pleasant. Our horses were grazing some distance from camp 
at the time; we formed a single line and determined to meet the enemy as 
infantry. Their attack being evidently designed on the left flank, near 
which was our wagon train, our detachment was ordered from the extreme 
right to the left, where we soon took up our position. One piece of 
artillery, 490 regular lancers and cavalry, and 100 regular infantry, 
besides some 500 militia from El Poso, composed the enemy's force, 
according to the best information I can obtain from responses of prisoners 
and from papers found among the baggage on the field of battle. The enemy 
ranged the mountains in their rear. In our rear was the river, with a 
little brushwood on its banks.

Previous to the encounter, a lieutenant in their ranks came forward waving 
a black flag in his hand, but halted when within one hundred paces of our 
line. Thomas Caldwell, our interpreter, went out to meet him. The 
messenger with the black flag of defiance demanded that the commander 
should come into their camp, and speak to their general. The reply was "If 
your general wants to see our commander, let him come here." 

"We shall break your rank then, and take him there," was the retort of the 
Mexican. 

"Come and take him," said our interpreter, unwittingly using the phrase of 
the Spartans at Thermopylae. 

"A curse on you; prepare for a charge, " cried the Mexican; "We give no 
quarter and ask none;" and waving his black flag gracefully over his head, 
galloped back towards the enemy's line. 

Their charge was made by the dragoons from their right, directed upon our 
left flank, bringing our detachment into the closest fire. Their infantry, 
with one howitzer with them, at the same time attacking our right flank.

Their charge was a handsome one, but was too well, too coo]y met, to break 
our line. After their fire had been spent, their front column being at 
about 100 steps from the front of our flank, our line poured a volley into 
them, which being a few times repeated, created such havoc in their 
columns, that their forces wheeled to

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the left, retreating from our fire, and in their flight made an attack on 
the provision train. Here they met a very warm reception, and were soon 
compelled to fly in all directions, and in the utmost confusion. Their 
infantry having been put to flight the Howard company, under the command 
of Lieut. N. Wright, taking advantage of the panic, charged upon them, and 
took their cannon from them This was soon manned by the artillery 
detachment under Lieut. Kribben, in Col Mitchell's escort. The enemy had 
by this time fled, leaving their arms baggage, provisions and other 
stores, on the field of battle.

A small body of mounted men under the command of Capt. Reid, had by this 
time gathered together in a line, and charged upon the enemy, pursuing 
them into the mountains, where they sought refuge.

The number of their dead is said to be at least thirty; that of their 
wounded was slight so far as ascertained. had we a single piece of cannon 
with us they would have lost more of their men; but having no artillery on 
our side, we had to act as infantry until we got possession of the 
howitzer so gallantly captured by the Howard company.

We lost not a single man, and had but seven slightly wounded. We took 
eight prisoners, six of whom died last night. Thus ended the battle of 
Bracito, the first battle of the Army of the West, and as bravely fought 
by our men as ever men fought at any engagement.

We have every reason to believe that there is more in store for us.

C. R. KRIBBEN, 1st Lieut., Mo. Light Artillery

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APPENDIX No. II.

OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO. SPECIAL DESPATCH FROM MAJOR 
M. LEWIS CLARK. Headquarters, Battalion Missouri Light Artillery. Camp 
near Chihuahua, Mexico, March 2, 1847. 

To Col. A. W. Doniphan, Commanding American Forces in the State of 
Chihuahua:-

SIR: -- I have the honor to report, that, agreeably to your instructions, 
I left the camp near Saux on the morning of the 28th ultimo, accompanied 
by my Adjutant, Lieut. L. D. Walker, and non-commissioned staff, and 
proceeded in advance to a position commanding a full view of the enemy's 
camp and entrenchments, situated about four miles distant from this point. 
The enemy was discovered to be in force, awaiting our approach, having 
occupied the ridge and neighboring heights about Sacramento. Upon 
examination, it was ascertained that his entrenchments and redoubts 
occupied the brow of an elevation extending across the ridge between the 
Arroyo Seco and that of Sacramento-both of which, at this point, cross the 
valley from the elevated ridge of mountains in the rear of the village of 
Torreon, known by the name of the Sierra de Victoriano, that of Nombre de 
Dios on the east, and through which runs the Rio del Nombre de Dios. This 
valley is about four miles in width, and entrenched by the enemy entirely 
across, from mountain to mountain, the road to the city of Chihuahua 
running directly through its centre -- and of necessity passing near to, 
and crossing the Rio Sacramento, at the Rancho Sacramento, a strongly 
built and fortified house, with adjoining corraals, and at other 
enclosures, be-

Page 173

longing to Angel Trias, the Governor of Chihuahua. From observation, it 
was ascertained that the enemy had occupied the site between these hills, 
and that the batteries upon them were supported by infantry -- his cavalry 
being in advanced positions, formed into three columns, between the Arroyo 
Seco, and our advance. During these observations, the enemy's advance 
guard discovering my party, approached rapidly, with the evident intention 
of intercepting it, but being met by that of our troops, which I had sent 
forward, it as rapidly retreated. At this time, also, the three columns of 
the enemy's cavalry recrossed the Arroyo Seco, and retired behind their 
entrenchments. I then approached within six hundred yards of the most 
advanced redoubt, from which point the enemy's formation was plainly 
discernible. The entrenchments consisted of a line with intervals composed 
of circular redoubt, from three to five hundred yards interval, with 
entrenchments between each, covering batteries partly masked by cavalry. 
The redoubt nearest to my position, contained two pieces of cannon, 
supported by several hundred infantry.

The enemy's right and left were strong positions -- the Cerro Frijoles on 
his right, and having high precipitous sides, with a redoubt commanding 
the surrounding country, and the pass leading towards Chihuahua, through 
the Arroyo Seco. The Cerro Sacramento on his left, consisting of a pile of 
immense volcanic rocks, surmounted by a battery, commanded the main road 
to Chihuahua, leading directly in front of the enemy's entrenchments; 
crossing the Rio Sacramento at the rancho, directly under its fire, and 
also commanding the road from Torreon, immediately in its rear; the 
crossing of the main road over the Arroyo Seco, at the point from which my 
reconnaissance was made, laid directly under the fire of the batteries on 
the enemy's right, which rendered it necessary to ascertain the 
practicability of a route more distant from the enemy's entrenchments. The 
passage was found to be practicable, with some little labor, and a point 
selected as the best for the passage of the artillery, and wagons, and 
merchants' trains. The whole point of the enemy's line of entrenchments 
appeared to be about two miles, and his force 3000 men. The artillery 
being masked, the number and calibre of the cannon could not be estimated.

Further, I have the honor to report that the battalion of artillery

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under my command, composed of 110 men, and seven officers, with a battery 
of six pieces of artillery, were, on the morning of the battle, directed 
to form, under the direction of Capt. Weightman, between the two columns 
of merchants' and provision wagons; being thus masked from the view of the 
enemy. In this column my troops continued the march to within fifteen 
hundred yards of the enemy's most advanced position; our direction was 
then changed to the right, and the column having crossed the Arroyo Seco 
without reach of the enemy's fire, rapidly advanced towards the table land 
between the Seco and Sacramento. At this time the enemy was perceived 
advancing from his entrenchments, to prevent our seizing upon the heights, 
but by a rapid movement of the battery, it was quickly drawn from its 
mask, and seizing upon a favorable position, protected in the rear by a 
mask, from the attack of a large body of the enemy's cavalry, ascertained 
to be hanging on our rear, it was formed, and at once opened fire upon the 
enemy's cavalry, rapidly advancing upon us. At this time his charging 
column was about 900 yards distant, and the effect of our strap shot and 
shells was such as to break his ranks, and throw his cavalry into 
confusion. The enemy now rapidly deployed into line, bringing up his 
artillery from the entrenchments. During this time our line was preparing 
for a charge-my artillery advancing by hand and firing. The enemy now 
opened a heavy fire of cannon upon our line, mainly directed upon the 
battery, with little effect. Lieutenant Dorn had his horse shot under him 
by a nine pound ball, at this stage of the action, and several mules and 
oxen in the merchant wagons, in our rear, were wounded or killed, which, 
however, was the only damage done. The fire of our cannon at this time, 
had such good effect, as to dismount one of the enemy's pieces, and 
completely to disperse his cavalry, and drive him from his position, 
forcing him to again retire behind his entrenchments. For a short time, 
the firing on either side now ceased, and the enemy appeared to be 
removing his cannon and wounded, whilst our line prepared to change our 
position, and more towards the right, for the purpose of occupying a more 
advantageous ground. Our object being soon gained, the order to advance 
was given, and immediately after I was directed to send the section of 
howitzers, to support a charge upon the enemy's

Page 175

left. I immediately ordered Captain R. H. Weightman to detach the section, 
composed of two 12 pound mountain howitzers, mounted upon carriages 
constructed especially for field prairie service, and drawn by two horses 
each. These were commanded by Lieutenants E. F. Chouteau and H. D. Evans 
and manned by some twenty men, whose conduct in this action cannot be too 
much commended.

Capt. Weightman charged at full gallop upon the enemy's left, preceded by 
Captain Reid and his company of horse, and after crossing a ravine some 
hundred and fifty yards from the enemy, he unlimbered the guns within 
fifty yards of the entrenchment, and poured a destructive fire of canister 
into his ranks, which was warmly returned, but without effect. Capt. 
Weightman again advanced upon the entrenchments, passing through it in the 
face of the enemy, and within a few feet of the ditches; and in the midst 
of cross-fires from three directions, again opened his fire, to the right 
and left with such effect, that with the formidable charge of the cavalry 
and dismounted men to your own regiment, and Lieutenant Col. Mitchell's 
escort, the enemy were driven from the breastworks on our right in great 
confusion. At this time, under a heavy cross-fire from a battery of four 
six pounders, under Lieuts. Dorn, Kibben, and Labeaume, upon the enemy's 
right, supported by Major Gilpin on the left, and the wagon train escorted 
by two companies of infantry under Captains E. F. Glasgow, and Skillman in 
the rear, Major Gilpin charged upon the enemy's centre and forced him from 
his entrenchments under a heavy fire of artillery, and small arms. At the 
same time, the fire of our own battery was opened upon the enemy's extreme 
right, from which a continued fire had been kept up upon our line and the 
wagon train. Two of the enemy's guns were now soon dismounted on their 
right, that battery silenced, and the enemy dislodged from the redoubt, on 
the Cerro Frijoles. Perceiving a body of lancers forming, for the purpose 
of outflanking our left, and attacking the merchant train under Captain 
Glasgow, I again opened upon them a very destructive fire of grape and 
spherical case shot, which soon cleared the left of our line. The enemy, 
vacating his entrenchments and deserting his guns, was hotly pursued 
towards the mountains beyond Cerro Frijoles and down Arroyo Seco de 
Sacramento, by both wings of the

Page 176

army under Lieutenant Col. Mitchell, Lieutenant Col. Jackson, and Major 
Gilpin, and by Captain Weightman, with the section of howitzers. During 
this pursuit, my officers repeatedly opened their fires upon the 
retreating enemy with great effect. To cover this flight of the enemy's 
forces from the entrenched camp, the heaviest of his cannon had been taken 
from the entrenchments to the Cerro Sacramento, and a heavy fire opened 
upon our pursuing forces and the wagons following in the rear. To silence 
this battery, I had the honor to anticipate your order to that effect, by 
at once occupying the nearest of the enemy's entrenchments, 1225 yards 
distant, and notwithstanding the elevated position of the Mexican battery, 
giving him a plunging fire into my entrenchments, which was not defiladed, 
and the greater range of his long nine-pounders, the first fire of our 
guns dismounted one of his largest pieces, and the fire was kept up with 
such briskness and precision of aim, that the battery was soon silenced, 
and the enemy seen precipitately retreating. The fire was then continued 
upon the Rancho Sacramento, and the enemy's ammunition and wagon-train 
retreating upon the road to Chihuahua. By their fire, the house and 
several wagons were rendered untenable and useless. By this time, 
Lieutenant Colonel Mitchell had sealed the hill, followed by the section 
of howitzers, under Captain Weightman, and the last position of the 
Mexican forces was taken possession of, by our troops; thus leaving the 
American forces masters of the field. Having silenced the fire from Cerro 
Sacramento, one battery was removed into the plain at the rancho, where we 
gained the road, and were in pursuit of the enemy, when I received your 
order to return and encamp within the enemy's entrenchments for the night. 
From the time of first opening my fire upon the Mexican cavalry, to the 
cessation of the firing upon the rancho and battery of Sacramento, was 
about three hours, and during the whole time of the action, I take the 
utmost pleasure in stating, that every officer and man of my command, did 
his duty with cheerfulness, coolness, and precision, which is sufficiently 
shown by the admirable effect produced by their fire, the great accuracy 
of their aim, their expedition and ingenuity in supplying deficiencies in 
the field during the action, and the prompt management of their pieces-
rendered still more remarkable from the fact that I had, during the fight, 
less than two-thirds
 
Page 177

the number of cannoniers generally required for the service of light 
artillery, and but four of the twelve artillery carriages belonging to my 
battery harnessed with horses. The remaining eight carriages being 
harnessed to mules of the country. During the day my staff were of the 
greatest service -- Adjutant Leo. D. Walker having been sent with the 
howitzers, and the non-commissioned officers remaining with me, to assist 
in the service of the battery. In this action, the troops under your 
command have captured one nine-pounder mounted on a cheek trail carriage, 
one nine-pounder, one six-pounder, and seven four-pounder guns, all 
mounted on new stock-trail carriages. These pieces were manufactured in 
Chihuahua, except the six pounder, which is an old Spanish piece. Three of 
the four-pounders were made at the mint in Chihuahua. Seven of the ten 
pieces were spiked, but have been unspiked since their capture; four of 
these were rendered unserviceable in the action; one entirely dismounted, 
was seized by my Adjutant, whilst in the act of being dragged from the 
field by the retreating enemy. There were also taken, two pieces of 
artillery, mounting three wall pieces of one and a half inch calibre each, 
and these are formidable weapons upon a charging force. With these twelve 
pieces of artillery was taken a due proportion of ammunition, implements, 
harness, mules, &e.; and they may be rendered serviceable by being 
properly repaired and manned; for which purpose I would ask for further 
reinforcement of my command. It is with feelings of gratitude to the Ruler 
of all battles, that I have now the honor to report, that not a man of my 
command has been hurt, nor any animals, with the exception of one horse 
killed under Lieutenant Dorn, chief of the first section of six pound 
guns, and of one mule, belonging to the United States, shot under one of 
the cannoniers; neither has a gun or other carriage of my battery been 
touched, except in one instance, when a nine pound ball struck the tire of 
a wheel, without producing injury. This is a fact worthy of notice, that 
so little damage was done to a command greatly exposed to the enemy's 
fire, and of itself made a point of attack by the enemy, if I may so judge 
by the showers of cannon and other shot constantly poured into us, as long 
as the enemy continued to occupy his position. I might call your attention 
to the individual instances of personal courage and good conduct
 
Page 178

of the men of my command, as well as of the intrepid bravery, cool and 
determined courage of many of your own regiment, and Lieutenant Col. 
Mitchell's escort, who charged with us upon the enemy's works, were it not 
impossible, in any reasonable, to name so many, equally worthy of 
distinction; and did I not presume, that other field officers on that 
occasion, would report the proceedings of their own commands and the 
praiseworthy conduct of their own officers and men.

With high respect, I am, Sir, Your Most Obedient Servant, M LEWIS CLARK, 
Major Commanding Bat. Mo. Light Artillery



APPENDIX No. III.

ALCANCE, AL FARO, NUMERO 14

Chihuahua, Febrero 17 de 1847

By a courier which arrived last evening at this capital we have the 
following news.

On the 9th inst the invasive forces which occupied the city of El Paso - 
passed by San Elecario in the direction of this capital. - Since the 5th 
inst. their vanguard, composed of one hundred men under the command of 
Col. Mitchell, have already occupied this fort (S Elecario). The rest of 
the force, forming the centre and the reserve, amounts to seven hundred 
and seventy men, besides seventy-four wagons which precede as many more 
wagons loaded with munitions of war and provisions. Their artillery 
consists of four pieces of six pounds, two eight pounders, the obus which 
they took at Tamascalitos, and a little mortar for stones which they 
obtained at

Page 179

San Elecario, after having committed many outrages and violences there. 
They also bring a wagon with the arms which they took from the suburbs of 
El Paso, and those which our troops left there in their retreat; their 
horses and oxen are in very bad condition.

The fear which possesses the soldiers is well known, since they themselves 
say that they come against their will, and this is proved, by the 
desertion of several of them; and by the questions which all ask, if any 
troops have come from Mexico to Chihuahua, and whether they have cannon. 
They also intend carrying with them as prisoners, the priest of El Paso, 
the prefect Don R. Barela, and some other persons of distinction, 
considering them as a guarantee against any rebellion which the Paseniens 
may intend, or as hostages should such an event occur.

On the 7th inst. there came to them a courier with the news that the so-
called Governor of New Mexico, Charles Bent, Esq. , and fifteen soldiers 
of his guard have been assassinated by the New Mexicans, and that all that 
state is following in an arduous insurrection, which has been promoted 
principally by the people of the upper river. On account of this news, the 
find themselves undecided which course to pursue, but Kirker has 
stimulated them to advance, telling them that Chihuahua will not be able 
to present in resistance, a force of more than 1000 men, militia and 
citizens, and commanded by poor officers. And he has made them believe 
that he has given their service the preference over the war with the 
Apaches for us, and the pay for which is still owing to him.

The arms which part of these soldiers which they call Mounted Dragoons 
carry, is a rifled musket with a bayonet, and a six barreled pistol in the 
cartridge box belt; the other part which they wish to consider as light 
cavalry, use a shorter rifle, with sabre and six-shooter at the belt. All 
their animals are in very bad order, and most of the soldiers are mounted 
on mules. A certain Owens and a Spaniard named Don Manuel (Harmony) has 
offered them resources of money when they occupy this capital.