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The Indian War of 1864 - Appendix A-C
APPENDIX A.
THE DAUGHTER OF SHAN-TAG-A-LISK.--A PIECE OF WESTERN HISTORY.
[The following as a piece of truthful history was published several years
ago in a magazine. That portion of it is omitted which has appeared in the
preceding pages.]
When, like the red-man of Plato, the American Indian shall have become
a myth, some future anthropologist will wonder what manner of man he was.
Those who have been thrown in contact with him do not love him. His
treachery, his cruelty, his basest kind of ingratitude, his wild, half-
maniac superstitions, make those who knew him wonder where all of the
sentimentality about the "noble redman" came from.
A true description of the aboriginal Indian dare not be put into print.
The novelist and the dramatist of future times will give a character to
the Indian which be never possessed, and he will be, like the Spanish
Aldoran, knighted and put on horseback after he is dead. Yet, as Buddha
says, "Amid the brambles and rubbish thrown over into the road, a lily may
grow."
It is the object of this brief article to tell the true story of an
Indian girl, and what happened to her. But in order that a comprehension
may be had, by the reader, of the girl and her situation, it is necessary
to go into some detail as to Sioux Indian life and history. It is also
necessary to give some details of the Sioux nation as to its customs and
geographical location, past and present; for without these facts the life
and character of the Indian girl referred to cannot be understood.
Her name was Ah-ho-ap'pa, the Sioux name for wheaten flour. It was the
whitest thing they knew. She had other names, as Indian women often have,
but when the writer first saw her she was called Ah-ho-ap'pa. How she got
the name is forgotten.
Her father's name, Shan-tag-a-lisk, meant "Spotted Tail"; some of the
Indians pronounced it "Than-tag-a-liska." He was one of the greatest
chiefs the Sioux nation ever had. In order to explain him and what
follows, it is best to give a brief description of the Indian question as
relates to the Sioux nation at the time of the Civil War. The great
Rebellion broke out in 1861, after having been planned for years, and not
only were the Northern arsenals emptied, the South armed, and the navy
scattered, but the entire Indian population, consisting of several
powerful Indian nations, were precipitated upon the frontiers of the North
and West. The "civilized nations" of the Indian Territory formally joined
the Confederacy, and helped to raise armies. The other Indians raided and
ravished the borders from southern Kansas to the British Possessions, so
that it was necessary to station troops in a long cordon, and build forts
and transport military supplies in enormous quantities, often at great
distances, in some cases a thousand miles from a railroad, and store and
guard the supplies. This greatly hampered the General Government. At the
time the war closed there were in the Department of "Kansas and the
Territories" nearly 60,000 troops. And long afterwards, when the clouds of
the civil war had passed away, I find from a return in my possession that
there were stationed along the line to protect Kansas, Nebraska and the
overland line to Utah, 10,000 men and twenty-six pieces of artillery. This
is exclusive of northern Iowa, Minnesota and the Dakotas, that required
another army. The time to which my narrative refers is between the summer
of 1864 and the spring of 1866. After a long, hot march to reinforce Fort
Laramie, which was then described as being in "Idaho Territory," we, a
detachment of Iowa cavalry, arrived at the so-called fort in July, 1864. A
regiment of Ohio cavalry had preceded us, and were building additional
forts and were holding the passes in the mountains. Fort Laramie seemed,
at that time, to the outside world, to be an echo from a vast, unknown,
perilous interior. Soon after arrival the writer was detailed as adjutant
of the post. Let us now turn to a view of the Sioux nation of that day.
The Sioux nation occupied a vast territory, and was subdivided into
subordinate tribes which had been so remotely sundered that their
languages differed and had run into dialects. Their traditions said that
they had come from the salt water, but they could not tell when, for the
time was so great. They had traditions of the East but not of the West.
They claimed kinship with the Iowas, Missouris, Kansas, and Quapaws or
Arkansas Indians. I will repeat here that the tribes of the Sioux nation
with which we had to deal were the Brule, the Oga-llall'ahs, and the Minne-
con'-jous, pronounced Minne-kau-zhous. The name of the first is the French
interpretation of the Indian name, "The Burnt-thighs." The second, "Oga-
llall'-ah," is a Sioux expression meaning "The Split-off Band," i. e.,
"The Secessionists." The third, "Minne-con'-jous," means the "Shallow-
water people," they being residents of the country where the streams were
all shallow and choked with sand. It was a vast territory, and was called
"The shallow-water-land."
Shan-tag-a-lisk was one of the greatest of the Brule leaders, with a
commanding influence over the Minneconjous; which bands roamed through the
vast country north, northeast, and east of Fort Laramie, but mostly north
of the Platte.
Owa-see'-cha ("Bad-wound") was the chief of the Oga-llall-ahs, which
roamed mostly south of the Platte, at the beginning of the time of which I
speak. I have stated that Owa-see'-cha had suffered much at the hands of a
Pawnee chief in a battle, hence the name.
Shan-tag'-a-lisk and Owa-see'-cha claimed to be able to bring into the
field 26,000 Ar-ke'-chetas, or public soldiers. The Sioux nation then had
what might be called a regular army. Not all of the men were soldiers;
some were mere hunters or food-providers, but most of the strong and able-
bodied were enrolled in a sort of military guild called Ar-ke-chetas, and
were either out stealing horses, fighting and plundering, or else acting
as policemen at home, and taking care of one another while drunk.
To rise among the Ar-ke-chetas the aspirant must "count coo," as it was
called. The term "coo" was the French translation "coup" of the Sioux word
strike, and the French term was the one always used by the interpreters,
who were mostly French, and the various Indians came to adopt the word
themselves. The relative importance of an Indian in his own estimation was
the number of times be could count "coo," and the Indian never failed to
advise his white listener as to the number. The Indian is a great deal of
an Ananias. His native character is that of a vain-glorious braggart. He
always claims to be a "heap-big-warchief." He could fool the white man who
knew nothing about it, but the Indians could not fool one another. They
knew each other's methods and manners, and they had a way of regulating
those things.
A "coo" meant the blow first given to an enemy by a Sioux with his hand
or something in his hand.
The Indian idea was that anybody might shoot an enemy, but it was the
man who touched him first that was entitled to the glory. It was not the
man who killed an enemy, or who scalped an enemy, that took the glory, but
the man who touched the enemy first. One Indian might shoot and instantly
kill a foe, another Indian might rush and strike the fallen foe with a
riding-whip, and a third might secure the scalp, but the glory went to the
Indian who made the "strike."
There was much reason in it, for a wounded Indian, like a little
learning, was a dangerous thing; and the really brave Indian was he who
first struck an enemy with something held in the hand. Sometimes blows
were so close together that disputes arose as to who was entitled to the
"coo," but these matters were settled by evidence in council. No Indian
could claim and take a "coo" that be could not prove. The warriors held
their "coos" by a sort of judicial determination of the tribe, or public
concession of known facts.
An Indian who made two or three "coos' was a hero. When he could claim
half a dozen he was a war chief. He was generally killed before he got any
more. Shan-tag-a-lisk was the greatest of the warriors of the Sioux
nation, at that time, and counted more "coos" than any other one in the
nation. He said, "I count twenty-six coos." He was a quick, nervy,
feminine-looking Indian of only medium size and height, and about forty
years of age.
The writer had met both Shan-tag-a-lisk and Owa-see-cha before making
the said trip to Fort Laramie. It was at Cottonwood Springs where two
peace conventions were had, ten miles below the forks of the Platte. The
object was to pacify the Sioux nation so that our Government might draw
off some of the troops on the frontier and send them to the front at
Atlanta, Georgia, where Sherman, at that time, was busily engaged and
needed all the troops he could get. But nothing came of our peace
conventions. It was also desired that a free opening might be had to the
west for the scattering, disorganized soldiers and citizens of the
Confederacy, who were fleeing from the theatre of war and from places
where the Rebel conscription was, in the language of Grant, "robbing the
cradle and the grave." These travelers to the west, although they might
not be loyal to the Government, could ably protect themselves from the
savage; they formed an army of extermination, and were exceedingly
valuable to the General Government for the services they could render in
exploring and building up the country and getting the Indians upon
reservations.
At Laramie half-breed runners were sent out to bring in the Sioux and
have an adjustment of pending difficulties, but the raid upon the line
west of Laramie and the warlike feeling of the young men of the Sioux made
it a failure. Nevertheless, some of the Indians came in, and Shan-tag-a-
lisk was said to be within a hundred miles of the Post with many lodges of
his band. On consultation at the sutler's store it was considered best to
issue provisions to all the Indians who came in, especially as Shan-tag-a-
lisk was keeping his band and his young Indians out of the war. It was
thought best to make some presents to the Indian women who came in, and
the Post commander was instructed to do so from the post fund. The Indian
women were presented with red blankets, bright calicoes, looking-glasses,
etc., etc. The writer, as adjutant of the post, superintended by order of
the post commander a distribution of provisions. All of the Indian women
and children sat down in a circle on the parade-ground, into the middle of
which were rolled barrels and boxes of flour, crackers, bacon, and coffee.
Then from the few Indian men, two or three were selected who entered the
ring and made the division with great solemnity; going around the ring
repeatedly with small quantities of the several articles that were being
divided. My instructions were to see that everything was fairly done and
all the supplies equally divided.
As I came up to the ring, on the day of the first division, an Indian
girl was standing outside of the ring, looking on. She was tall and well
dressed, and about eighteen years of age, or perhaps twenty. As the
distribution was about to begin I went to her and told her to get into the
ring, and motioned to her where to go. She gave no sign of heed, looked at
me as impassively as if she were a statue, and never moved a muscle. A few
teamsters, soldiers and idlers were standing around and looking on from a
respectful distance. I shouted to Smith, the interpreter, to come. He
came, and I said to him, "Tell this squaw to get into the ring or she will
lose her share." Smith addressed her, and she replied. Smith looked
puzzled, sort of smiled, and spoke to her again; again she replied as
before. "What does she say?" I asked of Smith. Smith replied, "Oh, she
says she is the daughter of Shan-tag-a-lisk." "I don't care," said I,
"whose daughter she is; tell her to get into the ring and get in quick."
Again Smith talked to her, and impatiently gestured. She made a reply.
"What did she say?" I asked. "Oh, she says that she don't go into the
ring," said Smith. "Then tell her," I said, "that if she doesn't go into
the ring she won't get anything to eat." Back from her, through Smith,
came the answer: "I have plenty to eat; I am the daughter of Shan-tag-a-
lisk." So I left her alone, and she stood and saw the division, and then
went off to the Indian camp. Several times rations were distributed during
the week, and she always came and stood outside of the ring alone. During
the daytime she came to the sutler's store and sat on a bench outside,
near the door, watching as if she were living on the sights she saw. She
was particularly fond of witnessing guard-mount in the morning and dress-
parade in the evening. Whoever officiated principally on these occasions
put on a few extra touches for her special benefit, at the suggestion of
Major Wood, the Post Commander. The Officer-of-the-guard always appeared
in an eighteen-dollar red silk sash, ostrich plume, shoulder-straps, and
about two hundred dollars' worth of astonishing raiment, such as, in the
field, we boys used to look upon with loathing and contempt. We all knew
her by sight, but she never spoke to any of us. Among ourselves we called
her "the princess." She was looking, always looking, as if she were
feeding upon what she saw. It was a week or ten days that Ah-ho-appa was
around Fort Laramie. At last she went away with her band up to Powder
River. Her manner of action was known to all, and she was frequently
referred to as an Indian girl of great dignity. Some thought she was
acting vain, and some thought that she did not know or comprehend her own
manner. There was no silly curiosity in her demeanor. She saw everything,
but asked no questions. She expressed no surprise, and exhibited not a
particle of emotion. She only gazed intently.
One evening in the sutler store the officers of parts of three
regiments were lounging, when Elston was asked if he knew Ah-ho-appa.
"Very well indeed," he said; and then he proceeded to say:
"I knew her when she was a baby. She was here in the squaw-camp eight
or nine years ago, and must have stayed with her relatives here two or
three years. She is very much stuck up, especially in the last four or
five years. She won't marry an Indian; she always said that. Her father
has been offered two hundred ponies for her, but won't sell her. She says
she won't marry anybody but a 'capitan',' and that idea sort of pleases
her father for more reasons than one. Among the Indians every officer, big
or little, with shoulder-straps on, is a 'capitan'.' That's a Spanish word
the Indians have adopted, Every white man that wears shoulder-straps is a
capitan. With her it's a capitan or nobody. She always carries a knife,
and is as strong as a mule. One day a Blackfoot soldier running with her
father's band tried to carry her off, but she fought and cut him almost to
pieces -- like to have killed him; tickled her father nearly to death. The
young bucks seem to think a good deal of her, but are all afraid to tackle
her. The squaws all know about her idea of marrying a capitan; they think
her head is level, but don't believe she will ever make it. She tried to
learn to read and speak English once of a captured boy, but the boy
escaped before she got it. She carries around with her a little bit of a
red book, with a gold cross printed on it, that General Harney gave her
mother many years ago. She's got it wrapped up in a parfleche [piece of
dressed rawhide]. You ought to hear her talk when she is mad. She is a
holy terror. She tells the Indians they are all fools for not living in
houses, and making peace with the whites. One time she and her father went
in to Jack Morrow's ranch and made a visit. She was treated in fine style,
and ate a bushel of candy and sardines, but her father was insulted by
some drunken fellow and went away boiling mad. When he got home to his
tepee he said he never would go around any more where there were white
men, except to kill them. She and her father got into a regular quarrel
over it, and she pulled out her knife and began cutting herself across the
arms and ribs, and in a minute she was bleeding in about forty places, and
said that if he didn't say different she was going to kill herself. He
knocked her down as cold as a wedge, and had her cuts fixed up by the
squaws with pine pitch; and when she came to he promised her that she
could go, whenever he did, to see the whites. And she went; you bet she
went. She would dress just like a buck and carry a gun. White men would
not know the difference. They can't get her to tan buckskin, or gather
buffalo cherries. No, sir. There was a teamster down at Bardeaux ranch
that wanted to talk marry to her, but his moustache was too white." (In
the old folk-lore of the plains a man's liver was supposed to be of the
color of his moustache. So the speaker meant that the teamster was white-
livered, hence cowardly.)
Here ended Elston's story, and all of the officers listened, and some
asked questions, until all knew Ah-ho-appa, who did not know her before;
and when Mr. Bullock, the post sutler, brought in a gallon of his fine new
whisky-toddy the subject changed to Petersburg and Richmond, and whether
Sherman's artillery could carry shells over Hood's lines into Atlanta. All
efforts for peace at Laramie were failures and hostilities raged along the
line, but Shan-tag-a-lisk stayed out of it.
Here for a time we leave the daughter of Shan-tag-a-lisk. She has gone
north to Powder River with her father's band. The writer was adjutant for
only thirty days, and then was ordered east down the Platte. The
Government was making every effort to end the war. Richmond was invested.
Atlanta fell into our bands. Rebellion and disunion was being pressed to
the wall. The blows were now redoubled and terrific. Fighting day and
night, the Confederacy was doomed. Every man was called upon to do his
best. Every man did his best, and then came Appomattox; and there was
written into our national constitution, with the sword, an amendment that
States could not secede from the Union. Then the disbanding armies poured
out into the Western States and Territories to begin the making of homes
and the building of railroads and cities. Then peace was proffered to the
Indian tribes. A commission was sent from Washington and a convention of
the "Civilized Tribes" held at Fort Smith, Arkansas. Judge Cooley, of
Dubuque, on behalf of the United States, was spokesman. I was there, but
still in the United States' service. Ross and Boudinot made speeches, and
peace was established there ere frost fell in the autumn of 1865.
Commissioners were selected to make treaties with the Western tribes. They
were no longer stirred up by emissaries from the Indian Territory and the
Confederacy.
Early in 1866 the Department of "The United States forces in Kansas and
the Territories" was commanded by Major-General Grenville M. Dodge, who
had commanded an army corps under Sherman. The writer had seen General
Dodge being hauled off in an army wagon, badly wounded, at Pea Ridge, at
which place was first invented the American battle theory of fighting
three days without stopping, contrary to the traditions of the "Fifteen
Decisive Battles of the World" which had theretofore happened, and which
were generally fought in a few hours each.
General Dodge had placed Colonel H. E. Maynadier in charge of the sub-
district at Laramie. The Indian troubles had slackened up, but there were
at the post about six hundred men, including everybody there. A year and a
half had elapsed, and the writer was still in the military volunteer
service.
Let us now visit Powder River, far north of Laramie. It was a cold and
dismal day in February, about the 23d, 1866. Ah-ho-appa was stricken with
consumption, and was living in a chilly and lonesome tepee among the pines
on the west bank of the river. She had not seen a white person since her
visit to Laramie in August, 1864. During this time there had been a
continuous state of war along the routes. Most of the Indians were
involved in hostilities that seemed unlikely to ever end, except with the
extermination of one party or the other. But Shan-tag-a-lisk kept out of
it as much as he could. His camp had been moved backwards and forwards all
over the Big Horn, Rose Bud, and Tongue River country, and was again on
the Powder River not far from where the three hundred horses of the
Seventh Iowa cavalry perished in a September snow-storm. Ah-ho-appa's
heart was broken. She could not stand up against her surroundings. In vain
her father had urged her to accept the conditions as they were, to be
happy and contented and not worry about things out of her reach. But she
could not. The object of her life was beyond her reach. She had an
ambition, -- a vague one; but her hopes were gone. Shortly before her
death a runner from Laramie announced to the Indians on Powder River that
commissioners would come with the grass, who would bring the words of the
Great Father to his Indian children. Shan-tag-a-lisk was urged to send
runners to all the bands south and west of the Missouri River, and to meet
at Laramie as soon as their ponies could live on the grass. Ah-ho-appa
heard the news, but it came too late. It did not revive her. She told her
father that she wanted to go, but she would be dead; that it was her wish
to be buried in the cemetery at Fort Laramie, where the soldiers were
buried, up on the hill, near the grave of "Old Smoke," a distant relative
and a great chief among the Sioux in former years. This her relatives
promised her.
When her death took place, after great lamentations among the band, the
skin of a deer freshly killed was held over the fire and thoroughly
permeated and creosoted with smoke. Ah-ho-appa was wrapped in it and it
was tightly bound around her with thongs so that she was temporarily
embalmed. Shan-tag-a-lisk sent a runner to announce that he was coming, in
advance of the commissioners, to bury his daughter at Laramie. It was a
distance of two hundred and sixty miles.
The landscape was bleak and frozenly arid, the streams were covered
with ice, and the hills speckled with snow. The trail was rough and
mountainous. The two white ponies of Ah-ho-appa were tied together, side
by side, and the body placed upon them. Shan-tag-a-lisk, with a party of
his principal warriors and a number of the women, started off on the sad
journey. When they camped at night the cottonwood and willow trees were
cut down and the ponies browsed on the tops of the trees and gnawed the
wood and bark. For nearly a week of the trip there was a continual sleet.
The journey lasted for fifteen days, and was monotonous with lamentation.
When within fifteen miles of Fort Laramie at camp, a runner announced
to Col. Maynadier the approach of the procession. Col. Maynadier was a
natural prince, a good soldier, and a judge of Indian character. He was
Colonel of the First U. S. Volunteers. The post commander was Major Geo.
M. O'Brien, a graduate of Dublin University, afterwards brevetted to the
rank of General. His honored grave is now in the beautiful cemetery at
Omaha.
A consultation was held among the officers, and an ambulance
dispatched, guarded by a company of cavalry in full uniform, followed by
two twelve-pound mountain howitzers, with postilions in red chevrons. The
body was placed in the ambulance, and behind it were led the girl's two
white ponies.
When the cavalcade had reached the river, a couple of miles from the
post, the garrison turned out, and with Col. Maynadier at the head, met
and escorted them into the post, and the party were assigned quarters. The
next day a scaffold was erected near the grave of "Old Smoke." It was made
of tent-poles twelve feet long imbedded in the ground, and fastened with
thongs, over which a buffalo-robe was laid, and on which the coffin was to
be placed. To the poles of the scaffold were nailed the heads and tails of
the two white ponies, so that Ah-ho-appa could ride through the fair
hunting-grounds of the skies. A coffin was made and lavishly decorated.
The body was not unbound from its deerskin shroud, but was wrapped in a
bright red blanket and placed in the coffin mounted on the wheels of an
artillery caisson. After the coffin came a twelve-pound howitzer, and the
whole was followed to the cemetery by the entire garrison in full uniform.
The tempestuous and chilling weather moderated somewhat. The Rev. Mr.
Wright, who was the post Chaplain, suggested an elaborate burial service.
Shan-tag-a-lisk was consulted. He wanted his daughter buried Indian
fashion, so that she would go not where the white people went, but where
the red people went. Every request of Shan-tag-a-lisk was met by Colonel
Maynadier with a hearty and satisfactory "Yes." Shan-tag-a-lisk was silent
for a long while, then he gave to the Chaplain, Mr. Wright, the
"parfleche" which contained the little book that General Harney had given
to her mother many years before. It was a small Episcopal prayer-book,
such as was used in the regular army. The mother could not read it, but
considered it a talisman. Mr. Wright then deposited it in the coffin. Then
Colonel Maynadier stepped forward and deposited a pair of white kid
gauntlet cavalry gloves to keep her hands warm while she was making the
journey. The soldiers formed a large hollow square, within which the
Indians formed a large ring around the coffin. Within the Indian ring, and
on the four sides of the coffin, stood Colonel Maynadier, Major O'Brien,
Shan-tag-a-lisk, and the Chaplain. The Chaplain was at the foot, and read
the burial service, while, on either side, Colonel Maynadier and Major
O'Brien made responses. Shan-tag-a-lisk stood at the head, looking into
the coffin, the personification of blank grief. When the reading service
closed Major O'Brien placed in the coffin a new crisp one-dollar bill, so
that Ah-ho-appa might buy what she wanted on the journey. Then each of the
Indian women came up, one at a time, and talked to Ah-ho-appa: some of
them whispered to her long and earnestly as if they were by her sending
some hopeful message to a lost child. Each one put some little remembrance
in the coffin; one put a little looking-glass, another a string of colored
beads, another a pine cone with some sort of an embroidery of sinew in it.
Then the lid was fastened on and the women took the coffin and raised it
and placed it on the scaffold. The Indian men stood mutely and stolidly
around looking on, and none of them moved a muscle or tendered any help. A
fresh buffalo-skin was laid over the coffin and bound down to the sides of
the scaffold with thongs. The scaffold was within the military square, as
was also the twelve-pound howitzer. The sky was leaden and stormy, and it
began to sleet and grow dark. At the word of command the soldiers faced
outward and discharged three volleys in rapid succession. They and their
visitors then marched back to their post. The howitzer squad remained and
built a large fire of pine wood, and fired the gun every half-hour all
night, through the sleet, until daybreak.
In the morning a conference was had at post headquarters, which was
decorated with flags; speeches were made, and the evils and misfortunes of
the last five years were gone over. Col. Maynadier told of the expected
coming of the commissioners, and made a speech. He said: "There is room
enough for all of us in this broad country." Pointing to the silk flag of
the Eleventh Ohio Cavalry, hanging from the wall, Col. Maynadier said: "My
Indian brother, look at those stripes. Some of them are red, and some of
them are white. They remain peacefully side by side -- the red and the
white -- for there is room for each."
After this there was a brief interval of peace. A full account of this
funeral may be found in the St. Louis newspapers of March, 1866.
With the grass came the commissioners. Then came the Union Pacific
Railroad. Then came Indian resistance. Then war again. Then the decadence
of the Sioux nation.
The daughter of Shan-tag-a-lisk was an individual of a type found in
all lands, at all times, and among all peoples: she was misplaced.
Her story is the story of the persistent melancholy of the human race;
of kings born in hovels, and dying there; of geniuses born where genius is
a crime; of heroes born before their age, and dying unsung; of beauty born
where its gift was fatal; of mercy born among wolves, and fighting for
life; of statesmen born to find society not yet ripe for their labors to
begin, and bidding the world adieu from the scaffold.
We all of us know what it is to feel that at times we are out of tune
with the world, but ever and anon we strike a node and come back into
temporary harmony; but there are those who are never in tune. They are not
alone the weak; they are the strong and the weak; they are the ambitious
and as well also the loving, the tender, the true, and the merciful.
The daughter of Shan-tag-a-lisk wanted to find somebody to love worth
loving. Her soul bled to death. Like an epidendrum, she was feeding upon
the air.
When wealth and civilization shall have brought to the Rocky Mountains
the culture and population which in time shall come, the daughter of Shan-
tag-a-lisk should not be forgotten; it may be said of her, in the words of
Buddha:
"Amid the brambles and rubbish thrown over into the road, a lily may
grow."
APPENDIX B.
LIEUT. FITCH'S REPORT ON THE SMOKY HILL ROUTE.
FORT LEAVENWORTH, Sept. 25th, 1865.
MAJOR:
Sir -- I have the honor to report that in compliance with Special Order
No. 143, Hd. Qrs., Dept. of Missouri, dated Fort Leavenworth, June 9th,
1865, I left Fort Leavenworth on the 13th of June to accompany the
Butterfield Surveying Expedition on the route to Denver City, via Smoky
Hill River.
No assistance having been furnished me, and my instructions authorizing
me to employ such as I might need, I employed Chas. H. Fitch as First
assistant, and Daniel Clark as scout and Second assistant; and with my
party fully equipped I took the old Fort Riley road, which I followed as
far as Fort Riley.
At this point we were joined by Major Pritchard of the Second Colorado
Cavalry, who was in command of the escort, which at this time consisted of
two companies of the Third Wisconsin Cavalry, under Capt. Pond. From that
point I proceeded on the Fort Larned road as far as Fort Ellsworth, on the
Smoky Hill River, at which point I diverged from the old road and bore
west up the river on the north side. Having been instructed to report all
streams that should be bridged, and their depth and width, together with
the estimated cost of such bridges, I commenced my observations on the old
road, as I found that the only difficult part of the route, at a point
fifty miles west of Fort Leavenworth, on the west side of Soldier River.
The road enters upon the Pottawatomie Reserve, and through the entire
reserve for a distance of thirty miles will be found innumerable small
streams, most of which should be bridged. It being Indian land, private
enterprise is not available, and the United States is now paying toll over
no less than four bridges in a distance of thirty miles. All of these
streams could be bridged for a sum not exceeding that now paid for toll in
the course of a year. At present there is no bridge across Cross Creek, it
having washed away while I was camped on its banks.
Between the Reserve and Fort Riley, a distance of thirty-five miles,
the streams are good and need no bridges. Directly, at Riley, on its west
side running through the Reserve and by its junction with the Smoky Hill
forming the Kansas River, is the Republican, the largest tributary of the
Kansas with the exception of the Smoky Hill. At the crossing of this river
on the Military Reserve is a ferry belonging to private parties, and the
Government is paying toll daily for crossing its own teams on its own
reserve. This stream should be spanned by a good, substantial structure,
though its cost will be considerable owing to the size and nature of the
stream. I did not make an estimate of the cost of bridging, as I supposed
it had already been done by engineers stationed at Fort Riley.
Leaving Fort Riley, on the Fort Larned road passing through Junction
City, at a distance of thirty-five miles, we crossed the Solomon's Ford of
the Smoky Hill at Whittly's Ferry. The Solomon is a fine rapid stream,
with high banks, and has a water-course eighty feet in width; will require
a span of two hundred feet, which can be put up there at a cost of $6,000.
Should there be stone piers erected, it would cost considerable more, as
the country is level and affords but little building-rock. The bridge
could be built to advantage at this particular point, as there is a high
island right in the middle of the stream that would afford a good
foundation for a pier or bent to the bridge.
The country on this stream is the finest stretch of land in Kansas,
having no bluffs, and a soil ranging from five to twenty feet in
thickness, while all the streams in the neighborhood are very heavily
timbered. The stream bears southeast into Smoky Hill, one mile below where
we crossed it. After crossing we bear a little south of west, across a
high level bottom between the Smoky Hill, the Solomon and the Saline, and
at a distance of eight miles we cross the Saline at Woodward's Ferry; the
upper ferry being impracticable on account of the road leading to it. The
Saline is a fork of the Smoky Hill, similar to the Solomon, with the
exception that the water is impregnated with salt, and it will require
about the same bridge. Country is level and the timber fine. Two miles and
a half west, we again touched the Smoky Hill, at Salina, the county seat
of Dickson, on the eastern terminus of the great bend of the Smoky Hill,
bearing south of west from Saline.
At a distance of thirty-two miles we reached Fort Ellsworth, on the
western terminus of the great bend of Smoky Hill. Here we were joined by
two companies of the Thirteenth Missouri Cavalry, under command of Capts.
McMichael and Snell.
After resting a day and killing a few buffalo, which we now found in
considerable numbers, and diverging from the old road, we bore a little
north of west upon the north side of the Smoky Hill River, near our old
trail of 1860, which had at this time become entirely obliterated. Our
road from this point lay over a broad stretch of level bench-land, covered
with a luxuriant growth of buffalo-grass, intersected every three or five
miles with fine streams of water. Our party at this time consisted of Col.
Eaton and his party of constructionists, twenty-six in number; eleven of
our mule-wagons loaded with tools, reapers, and everything necessary for
putting the road in fine condition; Major Pritchard; two hundred and fifty
cavalry as escort, and the Engineer Corps. On the 14th day of July, with
everything looking fair and all in good spirits, we started on our work. I
was accompanied by my wife and Capt. West by his.
Five miles west of Fort Ellsworth we were fairly in the buffalo range;
for miles in every direction as far as the eye could see, the hills were
black with those shaggy monsters of the prairie, grazing quietly upon the
finest pasture in the world. Should I estimate the number of buffalo to be
seen at one view at a million, it would be thought an exaggeration, but
better authority than myself has estimated them at millions, or as being
greater in number than all the domestic cattle in America.
Truly it has been well said, that the Smoky Hill is the garden-spot and
hunting-ground of America.
Following along on the high level bench before spoken of, erecting
mounds at every station, our route lay through a fine, rich and fertile
country bountifully supplied with wood, water and grass, everything
necessary to make a good wagon-road or railroad, finding fine springs as
we traveled along. At thirty-four miles west of Fort Ellsworth, we found a
coal-bed on what we named as Coal Creek.
Parties that accompanied us on our expedition and who were capable of
judging, pronounced it as being a fine vein, and capable of yielding in
sufficient quantities to pay for working it.
Twelve miles farther west we came to Big Creek, a large stream having a
fine valley and heavy timber. Here we made a good rock ford, erected a
large mound and stake for a home and cattle station. We camped here over
Sunday and Monday, to rest and hunt.
On the morning of the 18th we left camp, bearing little south of west
over the same character of country, close to the Smoky Hill, which at this
time, owing to the rains, would have floated a large steamboat. At a
distance of twenty-eight miles we came to a large spring, one of the
largest and finest in the west. Fifteen miles farther, we bore away from
the river and kept on high level land about three miles north of the
river, which at this point makes a southerly bend.
On the south of the river, opposite this point, we discovered high
bluffs covered with cedar. Twelve and a half miles farther west, we camped
at the head springs of a stream emptying south three miles in the Smoky
Hill. The water and grass at this point are unusually fine; we called the
place Downer Station. Nine miles west we came to a basin of springs
covering an area of one mile square, one of the finest spots on the route.
We called it Rushton. Nine and one-quarter miles farther west, we crossed
Rock Castle Creek, and camped two days to rest. The scenery here is really
grand; one mile south is a lofty Calcasieu limestone bluff having the
appearance of an old English castle, with pillars, and castellated towers,
in every direction. We named it Castle Rock.
Leaving Rock Castle Creek we once more bore a little south of west into
the divide between the Smoky Hill and the creek; keeping along the bench
of Smoky, crossing streams at convenient distances for stations.
At a distance of about fifty miles we found the largest spring on the
route, situated on Ogallallah Creek, in a valley one-half mile south of
Smoky Hill. Eight miles farther on, we crossed the north fork and kept up
the south fork. The great difficulty on what was known as the old P.P.
road lay in the fact that emigration kept up the north fork and then bore
across a divide eighty-five miles without water to the Sandy, lengthening
their route. We followed the south fork, finding wood, water and grass all
the way. Twenty-eight miles from the forks we came to a bottom extending
to within two and a half miles of Big Cottonwood Grove, covered with grass
six feet high, and containing some splendid springs. This we called the
Meadows, and left a reaper in the grass.
Two and a half miles west of the Meadows, we camped at Big Cottonwood
Grove. This is a grove of large cottonwood trees, and used to be a
celebrated camping-ground for Indians. Sixteen and a half miles west, we
reached the Cheyenne Well, at the head of Smoky Hill. This well was built
by our party in 1860, and is one of the finest of wells, yielding
sufficient water to supply a heavy emigration. At this point we left the
Smoky Hill, bearing south 57 degrees west, across the divide between Smoky
Hill and the Sand branch of the Arkansas. At eleven miles erected a mound
for a well to be dug, and at twenty-one miles came to Eureka Creek, at the
junction with Sandy. Here we found a large living stream of water and good
grass; we bore from this point north of west up the Sandy seventy miles,
to its most northern bend, finding an abundance of water, grass, and some
timber, though the latter is scarce. Fourteen miles east of this point we
had our first view of the mountains, which we had been prevented from
seeing on account of clouds. This morning the snow-capped mountains burst
upon our view, looming far above the clouds. The long-expected view
cheered our men and we pushed on with renewed vigor, now that our work
seemed almost done and our goal appeared within our reach.
Leaving the Sandy at the bend before mentioned, we bore northwest
across the divide, crossing Beaver at nine miles, then the Bijou and
Kroway, also other well-watered streams, and struck the old Taos road at
Cherry Creek, nine miles from Denver. This we followed into Denver, where
we were received with congratulations.
Our trip lasted after leaving the old road twenty-four days, six of
which we rested. We lost but one mule, and one pony that died of colic.
ADVANTAGES OF THE ROUTE.
The advantages of the Smoky Hill route over the Platte or the Arkansas
must be apparent to anybody. In the first place, it is one hundred and
sixteen miles shorter to Denver, making two hundred and thirty-two miles
on the round trip, and emigration, like a ray of light, will not go around
unless there are unsurmountable obstacles in the way. In this case the
obstructions are altogether on the Platte and Arkansas. Aside from the
difference in distance in favor of the new route, you will find no sand on
the Smoky Hill route, whilst from Julesburg to Denver, a distance of two
hundred miles, the emigrant or freighter has a dead pull of sand without a
stick of timber or a drop of living water, save the Platte itself, which
is from three to five miles from the road; and when it is taken into
consideration that a loaded ox-train makes but from twelve to fourteen
miles a day and never exceeds sixteen, it will not pay, and will double
the distance to drive to the Platte, the only water in the country, for
the purpose of camping; and all will admit that the Platte waters are so
strongly impregnated with alkali as to render it dangerous to water stock
from it. The carcasses now lining the road along the Platte bear evidence
to its distinctive qualities, whilst on the new route not a particle of
this bane can be found.
Another advantage of the new route is that on the Platte from the
junction to Denver, a distance of eighty-five miles, hardly a spear of
grass can be found to help hide the sandy, desert-like appearance of the
route, whilst on the new route, an abundance of fine buffalo and grama
grass can be found all the way. The near approach to the mountains does
not seem to affect it, as all kinds of grass can be found from one end of
the route to the other.
On the new route we saw no sign of Indians, or in fact any signs later
than last fall. This can be accounted for from the fact that the Platte
and Arkansas routes being so heavily garrisoned, Indians, with their
natural shrewdness, will not wedge themselves into a strip of country
entirely surrounded by Government troops.
In addition to the advantages above enumerated, the new route is
located through its entire length along and directly parallel to the
Central Pacific R.R., which is now running daily trains as far as
Lawrence, forty miles west of the Missouri River, and I have been
confidently informed that the cars will be as far as Topeka, the State
capital, this fall, which will shorten a stage route over the new line
sixty miles, making the distance to be traveled by coach but five hundred
and twenty-four miles, or one hundred and seventy-six miles less than by
the Platte and two hundred and seventy-six miles shorter than by the
Arkansas, as it is seven hundred miles from Leavenworth City or Atchison
to Denver by the Platte route and eight hundred by the Arkansas.
Further, should emigration ever increase to such an extent as to cause
a scarcity of timber, nature has bountifully supplied the Smoky Hill with
an abundance of bois devache, which is always cheerfully chosen by the
tried emigration in preference to cutting timber for a fire.
Having been instructed to suggest places suitable for Military Posts on
the route, I would state that I deem but two necessary at present, and
position can be found for those, -- one at a point on Smoky Hill, seventy
miles west of Fort Ellsworth, at the mouth of Turkey Creek, and one at the
forks of Smoky Hill; at both of those places an abundance of water, wood
and grass can be found convenient.
Having also been instructed to find an avenue through which the Santa
Fe trade could be directed via the Smoky Hill, I desire to report that at
a distance of three hundred and eighty-six miles west of Fort Leavenworth
and one hundred and ninety miles west of Fort Ellsworth, a creek bearing
northeast empties into Smoky Hill on the south side, which I deem
available (from my own personal observation, and from information gained
from the Indian tribes in that vicinity in 1860), by following it to its
head and crossing the Big Sandy at a point northeast of Fort Lyon and
intersecting the Arkansas road at Fort Lyon. Circumstances prevented me
from fully testing this, though I think it could be done with advantage to
the Government.
Accompanying this report, you will find a copy of my notes, and also a
correct map, which I hope will show truly the relative positions of the
two routes, as I have tried to describe them in this my report, fairly and
impartially; and having first returned by coach over the Platte route, I
think I am fully qualified to decide between the two.
I am, Sir,
Very respectfully,
Your Obt. Servant,
(Signed) JULIAN R. FITCH,
Second Lt. Signal Corps.
To Major Geo. T. Robinson,
Chief Engineer.
APPENDIX C.
[From Kansas City Star, Feb. 24, 1911.]
JAMES BRIDGER.--PIONEER
In Mount Washington Cemetery is the Grave of the Trapper.
In the Missouri Republican of March 20, 1822, appeared a notice
advertising for "enterprising young men" who would engage to "ascend the
Missouri River to its source, there to be employed for one, two or three
years." Among the enterprising young men who responded to this
advertisement -- which emanated from the Missouri Fur Company -- was a
young blacksmith apprentice named James Bridger, whose unguessed destiny
it was to become almost a legendary figure in the pioneer history of the
new West. The bare facts of his story are thus summarized upon a monument
to his memory in the Mount Washington Cemetery, Kansas City:
1804--JAMES BRIDGER--1881
Celebrated as a hunter, trapper, fur trader, and guide.
Discovered Great Salt Lake, 1824; the South Pass, 1827.
Visited Yellowstone Lake and Geysers, 1830. Founded Fort
Bridger, 1843. Opened Overland Route by Bridger's Pass to
Great Salt Lake. Was guide for United States exploring
expeditions, Albert Sidney Johnston's Army in 1857, and G.
M. Dodge in U.P. surveys and Indian campaigns, 1865-66.
Piquant glimpses of the man himself, however, are captured for us by
Edwin L. Sabin, writing in Recreation, New York. From Mr. Sabin we learn
that, while still a young man, Bridger's qualities won him the honorary
appellation, "Old Jim"; that when he discovered Great Salt Lake and tasted
its water, he concluded that it was an arm of the Pacific Ocean; and that
while not the discoverer of the Yellowstone National Park, he and his
companion, Joe Meek, were the first to explore that marvelous region. For
a long time their accounts of the wonders of the Yellowstone were received
incredulously as trappers' tales.
When the trade in beaver fur declined at the advent of the silk hat,
"Old Jim" Bridger established a general trading-post known as "Bridger
Fort," on a fork of the trails that led to Oregon and Salt Lake. Here he
made the acquaintance of George Gore.
It was in 1854 that Sir George Gore, real Irish nobleman and thorough
Irish sportsman, passed up the Missouri from St. Louis on the vastly
executed hunting expedition which has been compared to the exploits of
Gordon Cumming in Africa, and certainly surpasses the late feat of Mr.
Roosevelt. Gore must have been one of those royal good fellows such as the
Britisher so often proves when tried out, for he and Bridger became fast
friends. The nobleman's custom was to lie abed until near noon, then to
arise, bathe, eat and set out, by himself or with Bridger, upon a hunt.
Sir George Core delighted to read aloud to him out of Shakespeare and
Munchausen (who "war a durned liar"), and hear his comments. Bridger
declared that "that thar Mr. Fullstuff [Falstaff] war a leetle too fond o'
lager beer", but Shakespeare, withal, so enthused him that he waylaid an
emigrant train and bought a copy for a yoke of oxen. He hired a boy at
forty dollars a month to read to him; only to quit in a rage at Richard
III -- he "wouldn't listen to any more talk of any man who war mean enough
to kill his mother!" He has been called "the Daniel Boone of the West."
And it pleases me to think it was something more than a coincidence that
he should make his "last camp" (even though he did not remain) in the very
same house in which that other great Virginian had passed over the range
fifty years before. It pleases me to think that at least they were drawn
there by a common impulse.
Quaint, honest old Bridger. Men today in their prime recall him with a
smile and a word of praise. He lived to hear his Yellowstone yarns
vindicated, to see a railroad using his particular pass and trail, and to
realize that his mountain days had not been wasted. His post has crumbled
into a shapeless mass; but over the mountain-man's dust, removed, after
twenty years, by a friend, from the farm burial-place to the Kansas City
cemetery, arises a noble granite monument, the deed of another friend; and
Jim Bridger knows also, that he is not forgotten. -- Literary Digest.
The Indian War of 1864 - End of Appendix A-C
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