The Westover Manuscripts - Pages 108-122



Page 108

   21st. The necessity of drying our baggage prevented us from marching 
till eleven o'clock. Then we proceeded through low-grounds which were 
tolerably wide for three miles together, as far as a small creek, named by 
us Morris' creek. This tract of land I persuaded Mr. Banister to enter 
for, that he might not be a loser by the expedition. The low grounds held 
good a mile beyond the creek, and then the highland came quite to the 
river, and made our travelling more difficult. All the way we went we 
perceived there had been tall canes lately growing on the bank of the 
river, but were universally killed; and inquiring into the reason of this 
destructton, we were told that the nature of those canes was, to shed 
their seed but once in seven years, and the succeeding winter to die, and 
make room for young ones to grow up in their places. Thus much was 
certain, that four years before we saw canes grow and flourish in several 
places, where they now lay dead and dry upon the ground. The whole 
distance we travelled in this day by computation was fifteen miles, and 
then the appearance of a black cloud, which threatened a gust, obliged us 
to take up our quarters. We had no sooner got our tents over our heads, 
but it began to rain and thunder furiously, and one clap succeeded the 
lightning the same instant, and made all tremble before it. But, blessed 
be God! it spent its fury upon a tall oak just by our camp. Our Indians 
were so fearful of falling into the hands of the Catawbas, that they durst 
not lose sight of us all day; so they killed nothing, and we were forced 
to make a temperate supper upon bread and cheese. It was strange we met 
with no wild turkeys, this being the season in which great numbers of them 
used to be seen towards the mountains. They commonly perched on the high 
trees near the rivers and creeks. But this voyage, to our great 
misfortune, there were none to be found. So that we could not commit that 
abomination, in the sight of all Indians, of mixing the flesh of deer and 
turkeys in our broth.

   22d. We were again obliged to dry our baggage, which had been 
thoroughly soaked with the heavy rain that fell in the night. While we 
stayed for that, our hunters knocked down a brace of bucks, wherewith we 
made ourselves amends for our scanty supper the aforegoing night. All 
these matters being duly performed made it near noon before we sounded to 
horse. We marched about two miles over fine low-grounds to a most pleasant 
stream, which we named the Medway, and by the way discovered a rich neck 
of highland that lay on the south side of the Dan, and looked very 
tempting. Two miles beyond the Medway, we forded another creek, which we 
called Maosty creek. The whole distance between these two streams lay 
exceeding rich lands, and the same continued two miles higher. This body 
of low-grounds tempted me to enter for it, to serve as a stage between my 
land at the fork, and the Land of Eden. The heavens looked so menacing 
that we resolved to take up our quarters two miles above Maosty creek, 
where we intrenched ourselves on a rising ground. We had no sooner taken 
these precautions, but it began to rain unmercifully, and to put out our 
fire as fast as we could kindle it; nor was it only a hasty shower, but 
continued with great impetuosity most part of the night. We preferred a 
dry fast to a wet feast, being unwilling to expose the people to the 
weather, to gratify an unreasonable appetite. However it was some comfort, 
in the midst of our abstinence, to dream of the delicious breakfast we 
intended to make next morning, upon a fat doe and two-year-old bear our 
hunters had killed the evening before. Notwithstanding all the care we 
could take, several of the men were dripping wet, and, among the rest, 
Harry Morris dabbled so long in the rain, that he was seized with a 
violent fit of an ague that shook him almost out of all his patience.

   23d. It was no loss of time to rest in our camp according to the duty 
of 

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the day, because our baggage was so wet it needed a whole day to dry it. 
For this purpose we kindled four several fires, in the absence of the sun, 
which vouchsafed us not one kind look the whole day. My servant had 
dropped his great-coat yesterday, and two of the men were so good-natured 
as to ride back and look for it to-day, and were so lucky as to find it. 
Our Indians having no notion of the sabbath, went out to hunt for 
something for dinner, and brought a young doe back along with them. They 
laughed at the English for losing one day in seven; though the joke may be 
turned upon them for losing the whole seven, if idleness and doing nothing 
to the purpose may be called loss of time. I looked out narrowly for 
ginseng, this being the season when it wears its scarlet fruit, but 
neither now nor any other time during the whole journey could I find one 
single plant of it. This made me conclude that it delighted not in quite 
so southerly a climate; and in truth I never heard of its growing on this 
side of thirty-eight degrees of latitude. But to make amends we saw 
abundance of sugar trees in all these low-grounds, which the whole summer 
long the woodpeckers tap, for the sweet juice that flows out of them. 
Towards the evening a strong northwester was so kind as to sweep all the 
clouds away, that had blackened our sky, and moistened our skins, for some 
time past.

   24th. The rest the sabbath had given us made every body alert this 
morning, so that we mounted before nine o'clock. This diligence happened 
to be the more necessary, by reason the woods we encountered this day were 
exceedingly bushy and uneven. At the distance of four miles we forded both 
branches of Forked creek, which lay within one thousand paces from each 
other. My horse fell twice under me, but, thank God! without any damage 
either to himself or his rider; and major Mayo's baggage horse rolled down 
a steep hill, and ground all his biscuit to rocahominy. My greatest 
disaster was that, in mounting one of the precipices, my steed made a 
short turn and gave my knee an unmerciful bang against a tree, and I felt 
the effects of it several days after. However, this was no interruption of 
our journey, but we went merrily on, and two miles farther crossed Peter's 
creek, and two miles after that Jones' creek. Between these creeks was a 
good breadth of low-grounds, with which Mr. Jones was tempted, though he 
shook his head at the distance. A little above Jones' creek, we met with a 
pleasant situation, where the herbage appeared more inviting than usual. 
The horses were so fond of it that we determined to camp there, although 
the sun had not near finished his course. This gave some of our company 
leisure to go out and search for the place where our line first crossed 
the Dan, and by good luck they found it within half a mile of the camp. 
But the place was so altered by the desolation which had happened to the 
canes, (which had formerly fringed the banks of the river a full furlong 
deep,) that we hardly knew it again. Pleased with this discovery, I forgot 
the pain in my knee, and the whole company ate their venison without any 
other sauce than keen appetite.

   25th. The weather now befriending us, we despatched our little affairs 
in good time, and marched in a body to the line. It was already grown very 
dim, by reason many of the marked trees were burnt or blown down. However, 
we made shift, after riding little more than half a mile, to find it, and 
having once found it, stuck as close to it as we could. After a march of 
two miles, we got upon Cane creek, where we saw the same havoc amongst the 
old canes that we had observed in other places, and a whole forest of 
young ones springing up in their stead. We pursued our journey over hills 
and dales till we arrived at the second ford of the Dan, which we passed 
with no other damage than sopping a little of our bread, and shipping some 
water at the tops of our boots. The late rains having been a little 
immoderate, had raised the water and made a current in the river. We drove 
on four miles 

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farther to a plentiful run of very clear water, and quartered on a rising 
ground a bow-shot from it. We had no sooner pitched the tents, but one of 
our woodsmen alarmed us with the news that he had followed the track of a 
great body of Indians to the place where they had lately encamped. That 
there he had found no less than ten huts, the poles whereof had green 
leaves still fresh upon them. That each of these huts had sheltered at 
least ten Indians, who, by some infallible marks, must have been northern 
Indians. That they must needs have taken their departure from thence no 
longer ago than the day before, having erected those huts to protect 
themselves from the late heavy rains. These tidlings I could perceive were 
a little shocking to some of the company, and particularly the little 
major, whose tongue had never lain still, was taken speechless for sixteen 
hours. I put as good a countenance upon the matter as I could, assuring my 
fellow travellers, that the northern Indians were at peace with us, and 
although one or two of them may now and then commit a robbery or a murder, 
(as other rogues do,) yet nationally and avowedly they would not venture 
to hurt us. And in case they were Catawbas, the danger would be as little 
from them, because they are too fond of our trade to lose it for the 
pleasure of shedding a little English blood. But supposing the worst, that 
they might break through all the rules of self-interest, and attack us, 
yet we ought to stand bravely on our defence, and sell our lives as dear 
as we could. That we should have no more fear on this occasion, than just 
to make us more watchful and better provided to receive the enemy, if they 
had the spirit to venture upon us. This reasoning of mine, though it could 
not remove the panic, yet it abated something of the palpitation, and made 
us double our guard. However, I found it took off the edge of most of our 
appetites, for every thing but the rum bottle, which was more in favor 
than ever, because of its cordial quality. I hurt my other knee this 
afternoon, but not enough to spoil either my dancing or my stomach.

   26th. We liked the place so little that we were glad to leave it this 
morning as soon as we could. For that reason we were all on horseback 
before nine, and after riding four miles arrived at the mouth of Sable 
creek. On the eastern bank of that creek, six paces from the mouth, and 
just at the brink of the river Dan, stands a sugar tree, which is the 
beginning of my fine tract of land in Carolina, called the Land of Eden. I 
caused the initial letters of my name to be cut on a large poplar and 
beech near my corner, for the more easy finding it another time. We then 
made a beginning of my survey, directing our course due south from the 
sugar tree abovementioned. In a little way we perceived the creek forked, 
and the western branch was wide enough to merit the name of a river. That 
to the east was much less, which we intersected with this course. We ran 
southerly a mile, and found the land good all the way, only towards the 
end of it we saw the trees destroyed in such a manner that there were 
hardly any left to mark my bounds. Having finished this course, we 
encamped in a charming peninsula, formed by the western branch of the 
creek. It contained about forty acres of very rich land, gradually 
descending to the creek, and is a delightful situation for the manor 
house. My servant had fed so intemperately upon bear, that it gave him a 
scouring, and that was followed by the piles, which made riding worse to 
him than purgatory. But anointing with the fat of the same bear, he soon 
grew easy again.

   27th. We were stirring early from this enchanting place, and ran eight 
miles of my back line, which tended south eighty-four and a half westerly. 
We found the land uneven, but tolerably good, though very thin of trees, 
and those that were standing fit for little but fuel and fence-rails. Some 
conflagration had effectually opened the country, and made room for the 
air 

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to circulate. We crossed both the branches of Lowland creek, and sundry 
other rills of fine water. From every eminence we discovered the mountains 
to the north-west of us, though they seemed to be a long way off. Here the 
air felt very refreshing and agreeable to the lungs, having no swamps or 
marshes to taint it. Nor was this the only good effect it had, but it 
likewise made us very hungry, so that we were forced to halt and pacify 
our appetites with a frugal repast out of our pockets, which we washed 
down with water from a purling stream just by. My knees pained me very 
much, though I broke not the laws of travelling by uttering the least 
complaint. Measuring and marking spent so much of our time, that we could 
advance no further than eight miles, and the chain carriers thought that a 
great way. In the evening we took up our quarters in the low-grounds of 
the river, which our scouts informed us was but two hundred yards ahead of 
us. This was no small surprise, because we had flattered ourselves that 
this back line would not have intersected the Dan at all; but we found 
ourselves mistaken, and plainly perceived that it ran more southerly than 
we imagined, and in all likelihood pierces the mountains where they form 
an amphitheatre. The venison here was lean; and the misfortune was we met 
no bear in so open a country, to grease the way and make it slip down. In 
the night our sentinel alarmed us with an idle suspicion that he heard the 
Indian whistle, (which amongst them is a signal for attacking their 
enemies.) This made every one stand manfully to his arms in a moment, and 
I found no body more undismayed in this surprise than Mr. Banister; but 
after we had put ourselves in battle array, we discovered this whistle to 
be nothing but the nocturnal note of a little harmless bird, that inhabits 
those woods. We were glad to find the mistake, and commending the sentinel 
for his great vigilance, composed our noble spirits again to rest till the 
morning. However, some of the company dreamed of nothing but scalping all 
the rest of the night.

   28th. We snapped up our breakfast as fast as we could, that we might 
have the more leisure to pick our way over a very bad ford across the 
river. Though, bad as it was, we all got safe on the other side. We were 
no sooner landed, but we found ourselves like to encounter a very rough 
and almost impassable thicket. However, we scuffled through it without any 
dismay or complaint. This was a copse of young saplings, consisting of 
oak, hickory and sassafras, which are the growth of a fertile soil. We 
gained no more than two miles in three hours in this perplexed place, and 
after that had the pleasure to issue out into opener woods. The land was 
generally good, though pretty bare of timber, and particularly we 
traversed a rich level of at least two miles. Our whole day's journey 
amounted not quite to five miles, by reason we had been so hampered at our 
first setting out. We were glad to take up our quarters early in a piece 
of fine low-grounds, lying about a mile north of the river. Thus we 
perceived the river edged away gently towards the south, and never likely 
to come in the way of our course again. Nevertheless, the last time we saw 
it, it kept much the same breadth and depth that it had where it divided 
its waters from the Staunton, and in all likelihood holds its own quite as 
high as the mountains.

   29th. In measuring a mile and a half farther we reached the lower ford 
of the Irvin, which branches from the Dan about two miles to the south, 
south-east of this place. This river was very near threescore yards over, 
and in many places pretty deep. From thence, in little more than a mile, 
we came to the end of this course, being in length fifteen miles and 
eighty-eight poles. And so far the land held reasonably good; but when we 
came to run our northern course of three miles, to the place where the 
country line intersects the same Irvin higher up, we passed over nothing 
but stony hills, 

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and barren grounds, clothed with little timber, and refreshed with less 
water. All my hopes were in the riches that might lie under ground, there 
being many goodly tokens of mines. The stones which paved the river, both 
by their weight and colour, promised abundance of metal; but whether it be 
silver, lead or copper, is beyond our skill to discern. We also discovered 
many shows of marble, of a white ground, with streaks of red and purple. 
So that it is possible the treasure in the bowels of the earth may make 
ample amends for the poverty of its surface. We encamped on the bank of 
this river, a little below the dividing line, and near the lower end of an 
island half a mile long, which, for the metallic appearances, we dignified 
with the name of Potosi. In our way to this place we treed a bear, of so 
mighty a bulk, that when we fetched her down she almost made an 
earthquake. But neither the shot nor the fall disabled her so much, but 
she had like to have hugged one of our dogs to death in the violence of 
her embrace. We exercised the discipline of the woods, by tossing a very 
careless servant in a blanket, for losing one of our axes.

   30th. This being Sunday, we were glad to rest from our labours; and, to 
help restore our vigour, several of us plunged into the river, 
notwithstanding it was a frosty morning. One of our Indians went in along 
with us, and taught us their way of swimming. They strike not out both 
hands together, but alternately one after another, whereby they are able 
to swim both farther and faster than we do. Near the camp grew several 
large chestnut trees very full of chestnuts. Our men were too lazy to 
climb the trees for the sake of the fruit, but, like the Indians, chose 
rather to cut them down, regardless of those that were to come after. Nor 
did they esteem such kind of work any breach of the sabbath, so long as it 
helped to fill their bellies. One of the Indians shot a bear, which he 
lugged about half a mile for the good of the company. These gentiles have 
no distinction of days, but make every day a sabbath, except when they go 
out to war or a hunting, and then they will undergo incredible fatigues. 
Of other work the men do none, thinking it below the dignity of their sex, 
but make the poor women do all the drudgery. They have a blind tradition 
amongst them, that work was first laid upon mankind by the fault of a 
female, and therefore it is but just that sex should do the greatest part 
of it. This they plead in their excuse; but the true reason is, that the 
weakest must always go to the wall, and superiority has from the beginning 
ungenerously imposed slavery on those who are not able to resist it.

   October 1. I plunged once more into the river Irvin this morning, for a 
small cold I had caught, and was entirely cured by it. We ran the three 
mile course from a white oak standing on my corner upon the western bank 
of the river, and intersected the place, where we ended the back line 
exactly, and fixed that corner at a hickory. We steered south from thence 
about a mile, and then came upon the Dan, which thereabouts makes but 
narrow low-grounds. We forded it about a mile and a half to the westward 
of the place where the Irvin runs into it. When we were over, we 
determined to ride down the river on that side, and for three miles found 
the high-land come close down to it, pretty barren and uneven. But then on 
a sudden the scene changed, and we were surprised with an opening of large 
extent, where the Sauro Indians once lived, who had been a considerable 
nation. But the frequent inroads of the Senecas annoyed them incessantly, 
and obliged them to remove from this fine situation about thirty years 
ago. They then retired more southerly, as far as Pee Dee river, and 
incorporated with the Kewawees, where a remnant of them is still 
surviving. It must have been a great misfortune to them to be obliged to 
abandon so beautiful a dwelling, where the air is wholesome, and the soil 
equal in fertility to any in 

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the world. The river is about eighty yards wide, always confined within 
its lofty banks, and rolling down its waters, as sweet as milk, and as 
clear as crystal. There runs a charming level, of more than a mile square, 
that will bring forth like the lands of Egypt, without being overflowed 
once a year. There is scarce a shrub in view to intercept your prospect, 
but grass as high as a man on horseback. Towards the woods there is a 
gentle ascent, till your sight is intercepted by an eminence, that 
overlooks the whole landscape. This sweet place is bounded to the east by 
a fine stream, called Sauro creek, which running out of the Dan, and 
tending westerly, makes the whole a peninsula. I could not quit this 
pleasant situation without regret, but often faced about to take a parting 
look at it as far as I could see, and so indeed did all the rest of the 
company. But at last we left it quite out of sight, and continued our 
course down the river, till where it intersects my back line, which was 
about five miles below Sauro town. We took up our quarters at the same 
camp where we had a little before been alarmed with the supposed Indian 
whistle, which we could hardly get out of our heads. However, it did not 
spoil our rest; but we dreamed all night of the delights of Tempe and the 
Elysian fields.

   2d. We awoke early from these innocent dreams, and took our way along 
my back line till we came to the corner of it. From thence we slanted to 
the country line, and kept down that as far as the next fording place of 
the river, making in the whole eighteen miles. We breathed all the way in 
pure air, which seemed friendly to the lungs, and circulated the blood and 
spirits very briskly. Happy will be the people destined for so wholesome a 
situation, where they may live to fulness of days, and which is much 
better still, with much content and gaiety of heart. On every rising 
ground we faced about to take our leave of the mountains, which still 
showed their towering heads. The ground was uneven, rising into hills, and 
sinking into valleys great part of the way, but the soil was good, 
abounding in most places with a greasy black mould. We took up our 
quarters on the western bank of the river, where we had forded it at our 
coming up. One of our men, Joseph Colson by name, a timorous, lazy fellow, 
had squandered away his bread, and grew very uneasy when his own ravening 
had reduced him to short allowance. He was one of those drones who love to 
do little and eat much, and are never in humour unless their bellies are 
full. According to this wrong turn of constitution, when he found he could 
no longer revel in plenty, he began to break the rules by complaining and 
threatening to desert. This had like to have brought him to the blanket, 
but his submission reprieved him. Though bread grew a little scanty with 
us, we had venison in abundance, which a true woodsman can eat contentedly 
without any bread at all. But bears' flesh needs something of the 
farinaceous, to make it pass easily off the stomach. In the night we heard 
a dog bark at some distance, as we thought, when we saw all our own dogs 
lying about the fire. This was another alarm; but we soon discovered it to 
be a wolf, which will sometimes bark very like a dog, but something 
shriller.

   3d. The fine season continuing, we made the most of it by leaving our 
quarters as soon as possible. We began to measure and mark the bounds of 
major Mayo's land on the south of the country line. In order to do this we 
marched round the bent of the river, but he being obliged to make a 
traverse, we could reach no farther than four miles. In the distance of 
about a mile from where we lay, we crossed Cliff creek, which confined its 
stream within such high banks that it was difficult to find a passage 
over. We kept close to the river, and two miles farther came to Hixe's 
creek, where abundance of canes lay dry and prostrate on the ground, 
having suffered in the late septennial slaughter of that vegetable. A mile 
after that we forded 

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another stream, which we called Hatcher's creek, from two Indian traders 
of that name, who used formerly to carry goods to the Sauro Indians. Near 
the banks of this creek I found a large beech tree, with the following 
inscription cut upon the bark of it, "J. H., H. H., B. B., lay here the 
24th of May, 1673." It was not difficult to fill up these initials with 
the following names, Joseph Hatcher, Henry Hatcher and Benjamin 
Bullington, three Indian traders, who had lodged near that place sixty 
years before, in their way to the Sauro town. But the strangest part of 
the story was this, that these letters, cut in the bark, should remain 
perfectly legible so long. Nay, if no accident befalls the tree, which 
appears to be still in a flourishing condition, I doubt not but this piece 
of antiquity may be read many years hence. We may also learn from it, that 
the beech is a very long-lived tree, of which there are many exceedingly 
large in these woods. The major took in a pretty deal of rich low-ground 
into his survey, but unhappily left a greater quantity out, which proves 
the weakness of making entries by guess. We found the Dan fordable here-
abouts in most places. One of the Indians shot a wild goose, that was very 
lousy, which nevertheless was good meat, and proved those contemptible 
tasters to be no bad tasters. However, for those stomachs that were so 
unhappy as to be squeamish, there was plenty of fat bear, we having killed 
two in this day's march.

   4th. I caused the men to use double diligence to assist major Mayo in 
fixing the bounds of his land, because he had taken a great deal of pains 
about mine. We therefore mounted our horses as soon as we had swallowed 
our breakfast. Till that is duly performed a woodsman makes a conscience 
of exposing himself to any fatigue. We proceeded then in his survey, and 
made an end before night, though most of the company were of opinion the 
land was hardly worth the trouble. It seemed most of it before below the 
character the discoverers had given him of it. We fixed his eastern corner 
on Cocquade creek, and then continued our march, over the hills and far 
away, along the country line two miles farther. Nor had we stopped there, 
unless a likelihood of rain had obliged us to encamp on an eminence where 
we were in no danger of being overflowed. Peter Jones had a smart fit of 
an ague, which shook him severely, though he bore it like a man; but the 
small major had a small fever, and bore it like a child. He groaned as if 
he had been in labour, and thought verily it would be his fate to die like 
a mutinous Israelite in the wilderness, and be buried under a heap of 
stones. The rain was so kind as to give us leisure to secure ourselves 
against it, but came however time enough to interrupt our cookery, so that 
we supped as temperately as so many philosophers, and kept ourselves snug 
within our tents. The worst part of the story was, that the sentinels 
could hardly keep our fires from being extinguished by the heaviness of 
the shower.

   5th. Our invalids found themselves in travelling condition this 
morning, and began to conceive hopes of returning home and dying in their 
own beds. We pursued our journey through uneven and perplexed woods, and 
in the thickest of them had the fortune to knock down a young buffalo, two 
years old. Providence threw this vast animal in our way very seasonably, 
just as our provisions began to fail us. And it was the more welcome too, 
because it was change of diet, which of all varieties, next to that of bed-
fellows, is the most agreeable. We had lived upon venison and bear until 
our stomachs loathed them almost as much as the Hebrews of old did their 
quails. Our butchers were so unhandy at their business that we grew very 
lank before we could get our dinner. But when it came, we found it equal 
in goodness to the best beef. They made it the longer because they kept 
sucking the water out of the guts, in imitation of the Catawba Indians, 
upon the belief that it is a great cordial, and will even make them drunk, 
or at 

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least very gay. We encamped upon Hico river, pretty high up, and had much 
ado to get our house in order, before a heavy shower descended upon us. I 
was in pain lest our sick men might suffer by the rain, but might have 
spared myself the concern, because it had the effect of a cold bath upon 
them, and drove away their distemper, or rather changed it into a canine 
appetite, that devoured all before it. It rained smartly all night long, 
which made our situation on the low-ground more fit for otters than men.

   6th. We had abundance of drying work this morning after the clouds 
broke away and showed the sun to the happy earth. It was impossible for us 
to strike the tents till the afternoon, and then we took our departure, 
and made an easy march of four miles to another branch of Hico river, 
which we called Jesuit's creek, because it misled us. We lugged as many of 
the dainty pieces of the buffalo along with us as our poor horses could 
carry, envying the wolves the pleasure of such luxurious diet. Our 
quarters were taken upon a delightful eminence, that scornfully overlooked 
the creek, and afforded us a dry habitation. We made our supper on the 
tongue and udder of the buffalo, which were so good, that a cardinal 
legate might have made a comfortable meal upon them during the carnival. 
Nor was this all, but we had still a rarer morsel, the bunch rising up 
between the shoulders of this animal, which is very tender and very fat. 
The primings of a young doe, which one of the men brought to the camp, 
were slighted amidst these dainties, nor would even our servants be fobbed 
off with cates so common. The low-grounds of this creek are wide in many 
places, and rich, but seem to lie within reach of every inundation; and 
this is commonly the case with most low-grounds, that lie either on the 
rivers or on the creeks that run into them. So great an inconvenience 
lessens their value very much, and makes highland, that is just tolerable, 
of greater advantage to the owner. There he will be more likely to reap 
the fruits of his industry every year, and not run the risk, after all his 
toil, to see the sweat of his brow carried down the stream, and perhaps 
many of his cattle drowned into the bargain. Perhaps in times to come 
people may bank their low-grounds as they do in Europe, to confine the 
water within its natural bounds to prevent these inconveniences.

   7th. The scarcity of bread, joined to the impatience of some of our 
company, laid us under a kind of necessity to hasten our return home. For 
that reason we thought we might be excused for making a sabbath day's 
journey of about five miles, as far as our old camp upon Sugar Tree creek. 
On our way we forded Buffalo creek, which also empties its waters into 
Hico river. The woods we rode through were open, and the soil very 
promising, great part thereof being low-grounds, full of tall and large 
trees. A she bear had the ill luck to cross our way, which was large 
enough to afford us several luxurious meals. I paid for violating the 
sabbath by losing a pair of gold buttons. I pitched my tent on the very 
spot I had done when we ran the dividing line between Virginia and 
Carolina. The beech whose bark recorded the names of the Carolina 
commissioners was still standing, and we did them the justice to add to 
their names a sketch of their characters. We got our house in order time 
enough to walk about and make some slight observations. There were sugar 
trees innumerable growing in the low-grounds of this creek, from which it 
received its name. They were many of them as tall as large hickories, with 
trunks from fifteen to twenty inches through. The woodpeckers, for the 
pleasure of the sweet juice which these trees yield, pierce the bark in 
many places, and do great damage, though the trees live a great while 
under all these wounds. There grows an infinite quantity of maidenhair, 
which seems to delight most in rich grounds. The sorrel tree is frequent 
there, whose leaves, brewed in beer, are good in dropsies, green-sickness, 
and cachexies. We also saw in this place abundance 

Page 116

of papaw trees, the wood whereof the Indians make very dry on purpose to 
rub fire out of it. Their method of doing it is this: they hold one of 
these dry sticks in each hand, and by rubbing them hard and quick 
together, rarify the air in such a manner as to fetch fire in ten minutes. 
Whenever they offer any sacrifice to their God, they look upon it as a 
profanation to make use of fire already kindled, but produce fresh virgin 
fire for that purpose, by rubbing two of these sticks together that never 
had been used before on any occasion.

   8th. After fortifying ourself with a bear breakfast, major Mayo took 
what help he thought necessary, and began to survey the land, with which 
the commissioners of Carolina had presented him upon this creek. After 
running the bounds, the major was a little disappointed in the goodness of 
the land, but as it had cost him nothing it could be no bad pennyworth, as 
his upper tract really was. While that business was carrying on, I took my 
old friend and fellow traveller, Tom Wilson, and went to view the land I 
had entered for upon this creek, on the north of the country line. We rode 
down the stream about six miles, crossing it sundry times, and found very 
wide low grounds on both sides of it, only we observed, wherever the low-
grounds were broad on one side the creek, they were narrow on the other. 
The highlands we were obliged to pass over were very good, and in some 
places descended so gradually to the edge of the low-grounds, that they 
formed very agreeable prospects and pleasant situations for building. 
About four miles from the line, Sugar Tree creek emptied itself into the 
Hico, which with that addition swelled into a fine river. In this space we 
saw the most, and most promising good land we had met with in all our 
travels. In our way we shot a doe, but she not falling immediately, we had 
lost our game had not the ravens, by their croaking, conducted us to the 
thicket where she fell. We plunged the carcass of the deer into the water, 
to secure it from these ominous birds till we returned, but an hour 
afterwards were surprised with the sight of a wolf which had been fishing 
for it, and devoured one side. We knocked down an ancient she bear that 
had no flesh upon her bones, so we left it to the free-booters of the 
forest. In coming back to the camp we discovered a solitary bull buffalo, 
which boldly stood his ground, contrary to the custom of that shy animal, 
we spared his life, from a principle of never slaughtering an innocent 
creature to no purpose. However, we made ourselves some diversion, by 
trying if he would face our dogs. He was so far from retreating at their 
approach, that he ran at them with great fierceness, cocking up his 
ridiculous little tail, and grunting like a hog. The dogs in the mean time 
only played about him, not venturing within reach of his horns, and by 
their nimbleness came off with a whole skin. All these adventures we 
related at our return to the camp, and what was more to the purpose, we 
carried to them the side of venison which the wolf had vouchsafed to leave 
us. After we had composed ourselves to rest, our horses ran up to our camp 
as fast as their hobbles would let them. This was to some of us a certain 
argument that Indians were near, whose scent the horses can no more endure 
than they can their figures; though it was more likely they had been 
scared by a panther or some other wild beast, the glaring of whose eyes 
are very terrifying to them in a dark night.

   9th. Major Mayo's survey being no more than half done, we were obliged 
to amuse ourselves another day in this place. And that the time might not 
be quite lost, we put our garments and baggage into good repair. I for my 
part never spent a day so well during the whole voyage. I had an 
impertinent tooth in my upper jaw, that had been loose for some time, and 
made me chew with great caution. Particularly I could not grind a biscuit 
but with much deliberation and presence of mind. Tooth-drawers we had none 

Page 117

amongst us, nor any of the instruments they make use of. However, 
invention supplied this want very happily, and I contrived to get rid of 
this troublesome companion by cutting a caper. I caused a twine to be 
fastened round the root of my tooth, about a fathom in length, and then 
tied the other end to the snag of a log that lay upon the ground, in such 
a manner that I could just stand upright. Having adjusted my string in 
this manner, I bent my knees enough to enable me to spring vigorously off 
the ground, as perpendicularly as I could. The force of the leap drew out 
the tooth with so much ease that I felt nothing of it, nor should have 
believed it was come away, unless I had seen it dangling at the end of the 
string. An under tooth may be fetched out by standing off the ground and 
fastening your string at due distance above you. And having so fixed your 
gear, jump off your standing, and the weight of your body, added to the 
force of the spring, will prize out your tooth with less pain than any 
operator upon earth could draw it. This new way of tooth-drawing, being so 
silently and deliberately performed, both surprised and delighted all that 
were present, who could not guess what I was going about. I immediately 
found the benefit of getting rid of this troublesome companion, by eating 
my supper with more comfort than I had done during the whole expedition.

   10th. In the morning we made an end of our bread, and all the rest of 
our provision, so that now we began to travel pretty light. All the 
company were witnesses how good the land was upon Sugar Tree creek, 
because we rode down it four miles, till it fell into Hico river. Then we 
directed our course over the highland, thinking to shorten our way to Tom 
Wilson's quarter. Nevertheless, it was our fortune to fall upon the Hico 
again, and then kept within sight of it several miles together, till we 
came near the mouth. Its banks were high and full of precipices on the 
east side, but it afforded some low-grounds on the west. Within two miles 
of the mouth are good shows of copper mines, as Harry Morris told me, but 
we saw nothing of them. It runs into the Dan just below a large fall, but 
the chain of rocks does not reach quite across the river, to intercept the 
navigation. About a mile below lives Aaron Pinston, at a quarter belonging 
to Thomas Wilson, upon Tewahominy creek. This man is the highest 
inhabitant on the south side of the Dan, and yet reckons himself perfectly 
safe from danger. And if the bears, wolves, and panthers were as harmless 
as the Indians, his stock might be so too. Tom Wilson offered to knock 
down a steer for us, but I would by no means accept of his generosity. 
However, we were glad of a few of his peas and potatoes, and some rashers 
of his bacon, upon which we made good cheer. This plantation lies about a 
mile from the mouth of Tewahominy, and about the same distance from the 
mouth of Hico river, and contains a good piece of land. The edifice was 
only a log house, affording a very free passage for the air through every 
part of it, nor was the cleanliness of it any temptation to lie out of our 
tents, so we encamped once more, for the last time, in the open field.

   11th. I tipped our landlady with what I imagined a full reward for the 
trouble we had given her, and then mounted our horses, which picked up 
their ears after the two meals they had eaten of corn. In the distance of 
about a mile we reached the Dan, which we forded with some difficulty into 
the fork. The water was pretty high in the river, and the current 
something rapid, nevertheless all the company got over safe, with only a 
little water in their boots. After traversing the fork, which was there at 
least two good miles across, we forded the Staunton into a little island, 
and then the narrow branch of the same to the main land. We took major 
Mumford's tenant in our way, where we moistened our throats with a little 
milk, and then proceeded in good order to Blue Stone Castle. My landlady 
received 

Page 118

us with a grim sort of a welcome, which I did not expect, since I brought 
her husband back in good health, though perhaps that might be the reason. 
It is sure something or other did tease her, and she was a female of too 
strong passions to know how to dissemble. However, she was so civil as to 
get us a good dinner, which I was the better pleased with because Col. 
Cock and Mr. Mumford came time enough to partake of it. The colonel had 
been surveying land in these parts, and particularly that on which Mr. 
Stith's copper mine lies, as likewise a tract on which Cornelius Cargill 
has fine appearances. He had but a poor opinion of Mr. Stith's mine, 
foretelling it would be all labour in vain, but thought something better 
of Mr. Cargill's. After dinner these gentlemen took their leaves, and at 
the same time I discharged two of of my fellow travellers, Thomas Wilson 
and Joseph Colson, after having made their hearts merry, and giving each 
of them a piece of gold to rub their eyes with. We now returned to that 
evil custom of lying in a house, and an evil one it is, when ten or a 
dozen people are forced to pig together in a room, as we did, and were 
troubled with squalling of peevish, dirty children into the bargain.

   12th. We ate our fill of potatoes and milk, which seems delicious fare 
to those who have made a campaign in the woods. I then took my first 
minister, Harry Morris, up the hill, and marked out the place where Blue 
Stone Castle was to stand, and overlook the adjacent country. After that I 
put my friend in mind of many things he had done amiss, which he promised 
faithfully to reform. I was so much an infidel to his fair speeches, 
(having been many times deceived by them,) that I was forced to threaten 
him with my highest displeasure, unless he mended his conduct very much. I 
also let him know, that he was not only to correct his own errors, but 
likewise those of his wife, since the power certainly belonged to him, in 
virtue of his conjugal authority. He scratched his head at this last 
admonition, from whence I inferred that the gray mare was the better 
horse. We gave our heavy baggage two hours' start, and about noon followed 
them, and in twelve miles reached John Butcher's, calling by the way for 
master Mumford, in order to take him along with us. Mr. Butcher received 
us kindly, and we had a true Roanoke entertainment of pork upon pork, and 
pork again upon that. He told us he had been one of the first seated in 
that remote part of the country, and in the beginning had been forced, 
like the great Nebuchadnezzar, to live a considerable time upon grass. 
This honest man set a mighty value on the mine he fancied he had in his 
pasture, and showed us some of the ore, which he was made to believe was a 
gray copper, and would certainly make his fortune. But there is a bad 
distemper rages in those parts, that grows very epidemical. The people are 
all mine mad, and neglecting to make corn, starve their families in hopes 
to live in great plenty hereafter. Mr. Stith was the first that was seized 
with the frenzy, and has spread the contagion far and near. As you ride 
along the woods, you see all the large stones knocked to pieces, nor can a 
poor marcasite rest quietly in its bed for these curious inquirers. Our 
conversation ran altogether upon this darling subject, until the hour came 
for our lying in bulk together.

   13th. After breaking our fast with a sea of milk and potatoes, we took 
our leave, and I crossed my landlady's hand with a piece of money. She 
refused the offer at first, but, like a true woman, accepted of it when it 
was put home to her. She told me the utmost she was able to do for me was 
a trifle in comparison of some favour I had formerly done her; but what 
that favour was, neither I could recollect, nor did she think proper to 
explain. Though it threatened rain, we proceeded on our journey, and 
jogged on in the new road for twenty miles, that is as far as it was 
cleared at that time, and found it would soon come to be a very good one 
after it was well 

Page 119

grubbed. About nine miles from John Butcher's, we crossed Allen's creek, 
four miles above Mr. Stith's mine. Near the mouth of this creek is a good 
body of rich land, whereof Occaneeche neck is a part. It was entered for 
many years ago by Col. Harrison and Col. Allen, but to this day is held 
without patent or improvement. And they say Mr. Bolling does the same, 
with a thousand acres lying below John Butcher's. After beating the new 
road for twenty miles, we struck off towards Meherrin, which we reached in 
eight miles farther, and then came to the plantation of Joshua Nicholson, 
where Daniel Taylor lives for halves. There was a poor dirty house, with 
hardly any thing in it but children, that wallowed about like so many 
pigs. It is a common case in this part of the country, that people live 
worse upon good land; and the more they are befriended by the soil and the 
climate, the less they will do for themselves. This man was an instance of 
it, for though his plantation would make plentiful returns for a little 
industry, yet he wanting that, wanted every thing. The woman did all that 
was done in the family, and the few garments they had to cover their dirty 
hides were owing to her industry. We could have no supplies from such 
neighbours as these, but depended on our own knapsacks, in which we had 
some remnants of cold fowls that we brought from Blue Stone Castle. When 
my house was in order, the whole family came and admired it, as much as if 
it had been the grand vizier's tent in the Turkish army.

   14th. The sabbath was now come round again, and although our horses 
would have been glad to take the benefit of it, yet we determined to make 
a Sunday's journey to Brunswick church, which lay about eight miles off. 
Though our landlord could do little for us, nevertheless, we did him all 
the good we were able, by bleeding his sick negro, and giving him a dose 
of Indian physic. We got to church in decent time, and Mr. Betty, the 
parson of the parish, entertained us with a good honest sermon, but 
whether he bought it, or borrowed it, would have been uncivil in us to 
inquire. Be that as it will, he is a decent man, with a double chin that 
sits gracefully over his band, and his parish, especially the female part 
of it, like him well. We were not crowded at church, though it was a new 
thing in that remote part of the country. What women happened to be there, 
were very gim and tidy in the work of their own hands, which made them 
look tempting in the eyes of us foresters. When church was done, we 
refreshed our teacher with a glass of wine, and then receiving his 
blessing, took horse and directed our course to major Embry's. The 
distance thither was reputed fifteen miles, but appeared less by the 
company of a nymph of those woods, whom innocence, and wholesome flesh and 
blood made very alluring. In our way we crossed Sturgeon creek and Queocky 
creek, but at our journey's end were so unlucky as not to find either 
master or mistress at home. However, after two hours of hungry 
expectation, the good woman luckily found her way home, and provided very 
hospitably for us. As for the major, he had profited so much by my 
prescription, as to make a journey to Williamsburg, which required pretty 
good health, the distance being little short of one hundred miles.

   15th. After our bounteous landlady had cherished us with roast beef and 
chicken-pie, we thankfully took leave. At the same time we separated from 
our good friend and fellow traveller, major Mayo, who steered directly 
home. He is certainly a very useful, as well as an agreeable companion in 
the woods, being ever cheerful and good-humoured, under all the little 
crosses, disasters, and disappointments of that rambling life. As many of 
us as remained jogged on together to Sapponi chapel, where I thanked major 
Mumford and Peter Jones for the trouble that they had taken in this long 
journey. That ceremony being duly performed, I filed off with my honest 
friend, Mr. Banister, to his habitation on Hatcher's run, which lay about 
fourteen miles 

Page 120
from the chapel above-mentioned. His good-humoured little wife was glad to 
see her runaway spouse returned in safety, and treated us kindly. It was 
no small pleasure to me, that my worthy friend found his family in good 
health, and his affairs in good order. He came into this ramble so 
frankly, that I should have been sorry if he had been a sufferer by it. In 
the gaiety of our hearts we drank our bottle a little too freely, which 
had an unusual effect on persons so long accustomed to simple element. We 
were both of us raised out of our beds in the same manner, and near the 
same time, which was a fair proof that people who breath the same air, and 
are engaged in the same way of living, will be very apt to fall into the 
same indispositions. And this may explain why distempers sometimes go 
round a family, without any reason to believe they are infectious, 
according to the superstition of the vulgar.

   16th. After pouring down a basin of chocolate, I wished peace to that 
house, and departed. As long as Mr. Banister had been absent from his 
family, he was yet so kind as to conduct me to major Mumford's, and which 
was more, his wife very obligingly consented to it. The major seemed 
overjoyed at his being returned safe and sound from the perils of the 
woods, though his satisfaction had some check from the change his pretty 
wife had suffered in her complexion. The vermilion of her cheeks had given 
place a little to the saffron, by means of a small tincture of the yellow 
jaundice. I was sorry to see so fair a flower thus faded, and recommended 
the best remedy I could think of. After a refreshment of about an hour, we 
went on to Col. Bolling's, who was so gracious as to send us an 
invitation. As much in haste as I was to return to my family, I spent an 
hour or two at that place, but could by no means be persuaded to stay 
dinner, nor could even madam de Graffenriedt's smiles on one side of her 
face shake my resolution. From thence we proceeded to Col. Mumford's, who 
seemed to have taken a new lease, were any dependence to be upon looks, or 
any indulgence allowed to the wishes of his friends. An honester a man, a 
fairer trader, or a kinder friend, this country never produced: God send 
any of his sons may have the grace to take after him. We took a running 
repast with this good man, and then bidding adieu both to him and Mr. 
Banister, I mounted once more, and obstinately pursued my journey home, 
though the clouds threatened, and the heavens looked very lowering. I had 
not passed the court-house before it began to pour down like a spout upon 
me. Nevertheless, I pushed forward with vigour, and got dripping wet 
before I could reach Merchant's Hope Point. My boat was there luckily 
waiting for me, and wafted me safe over. And the joy of meeting my family 
in health made me in a moment forget all the fatigues of the journey, as 
much as if I had been husquenawed. However, the good Providence that 
attended me, and my whole company, will I hope stick fast in my memory, 
and make me everlastingly thankful.

A list of our Company of all sorts.
Myself, 
Major Mayo, 
Major Mumford, 
Mr. Banister, 
Mr. Jones, 
Thomas Wilson, 
Joseph Colson, 
Harry Morris, 
Bobert Bolling, 
Thomas Hooper, 
Lawson, 
Three Indians, 
Three negroes, 
Twenty horses, 
Four dogs, 

Page 121

My plat of twenty thousand acres in North Carolina. Surveyed in Septem- 
ber, 1733, by Mr. Mayo, being fifteen miles long, three broad at the west 
end, and one at the east.
 

   An account of the distances of places. From Westover to Col. Mumford's, 
16 miles. 
From Col. Mumford's to major Mumford's, 6 
From thence to Sapponi chapel, 20 
From thence to major Embry's on Nottoway, 10 
From thence to Brunswick court-house, 15 
From thence to Meherrin river, 8 
From thence to the ford on Roanoke, 12 
From thence to Col. Stith's copper mine, 20 
From thence to Butcher's creek, 6 
From thence to Blue Stone Castle, 12 
From thence to the ford into the fork, 7 
From thence to Birche's creek, 5 
From thence to Banister river, 6 
From thence to Morris creek, 3 
From thence to the Medway, 14 
From thence to Maostie creek, 2 
From hence to Fork creek, 6 
From hence to Peter's creek, 2 
From hence to Jones' creek, 2 
From hence to the first ford over the Dan, 1 & 1/2 
From hence to Cane creek, 2½ 
From hence to the second ford of the Dan, 4 & 1/2 
From hence to the mouth of Sable creek, 8 
From hence to the south-east corner of my land, 1 
From thence to the Dan on my back line, 8 
From thence to the Irvin on my back line, 6 

Page 122

From thence to my south-west corner, 1 mile. 
From thence to my corner on the west of the Irvin, 3 
From thence to the Dan along my upper-line, 4 & 1/2 
  --212 
From thence to the mouth of the Irvin, 1 & 1/2 
From thence to Sauro creek, 2 & 1/2 
From thence to where my back-line crosses the Dan, 5 
From thence to my south-east corner, 8 
From thence to Cliff creek, 10 
From thence to Hixe's creek, 2 
From thence to Hatcher's creek, 1 
From thence to Cocquade creek, 5 
From thence to the upper ford of Hico river, 7 
From thence to Jesuit's creek, 4 
From thence to where the line cuts Sugar Tree creek, 5 
From thence to the mouth of Sugar Tree creek, 4 
From thence to the mouth of Hico river, 7 
From thence to Wilson's quarter on Tewahominy creek, 1 
From thence to the Dan, 1 
From thence across the fork to the Staunton, 2 
From thence to Blue Stone Castle, 7 
From thence to Sandy creek, 5 
From thence to Mr. Mumford's plantation, 2 
From thence to Butcher's creek, 5 
From thence to Allen's creek, 9 
From thence to Joshua Nicholson's on Meherrin, 18 
From thence to Brunswick court-house, 8 
From thence to Nottoway bridge, 14 
From thence to Sapponi Chapel, 10 
From thence to Mr. Banister's on Hatcher's run, 12 
From thence to Col. Bolling's plantation, 9 
From thence to Col. Mumford's plantation, 5 
From thence to Westover, 16 
  --184