The Westover Manuscripts - Pages 41-60



Page 41

   About four o'clock in the afternoon we took up our quarters upon Caban 
branch, which also discharges itself into Fountain creek. On our way we 
observed several meadows clothed with very rank grass, and branches full 
of tall reeds, in which cattle keep themselves fat good part of the 
winter. But hogs are as injurious to both as goats are said to be to 
vines, and for that reason it was not lawful to sacrifice them to Bacchus. 
We halted by the way to christen two children at a spring, where their 
mothers waylaid us for that good purpose.

   27th. It was ten o'clock before the surveyors got to work, because some 
of the horses had straggled a great distance from the camp. Nevertheless, 
meeting with practicable woods, they advanced the line nine miles and a 
hundred and four poles. We crossed over Pea creek about four miles from 
our quarters, and, three miles farther, Lizard creek, both which empty 
their waters into Roanoke river. Between these two creeks a poor man 
waited for us with five children to be baptized and we halted till the 
ceremony was ended. The land seemed to be very good, by the largeness of 
the trees, though very stony. We proceeded as far as Pigeon-roost creek, 
which also runs into Roanoke, and there quartered. We had not the pleasure 
of the company of any of the Carolina commissioners in this day's march, 
except Mr. Moseley's, the rest tarrying behind to wait the coming up of 
their baggage cart, which they had now not seen nor heard (though the 
wheels made a dismal noise) for several days past. Indeed it was a very 
difficult undertaking to conduct a cart through such pathless and 
perplexed woods, and no wonder if its motion was a little planetary. We 
would have paid them the compliment of waiting for them, could we have 
done it at any other expense but that of the public.

   In the stony grounds we rode over we found great quantity of the true 
ipocoacanna, which in this part of the world is called Indian physic. This 
has several stalks growing up from the same root about a foot high, 
bearing a leaf resembling that of a strawberry. It is not so strong as 
that from Brazil, but has the same happy effects, if taken in somewhat a 
larger dose. It is an excellent vomit, and generally cures intermitting 
fevers and bloody fluxes at once or twice taking. There is abundunce of it 
in the upper part of the country, where it delights most in a stony soil 
intermixed with black mould.

   28th. Our surveyors got early to work, yet could forward the line but 
six miles and a hundred and twenty-one poles, because of the uneven 
grounds in the neighbourhood of Roanoke, which they crossed in this day's 
work. In that place the river is forty-nine poles wide, and rolls down a 
crystal stream of very sweet water, insomuch that when there comes to be a 
great monarch in this part of the world, he will cause all the water for 
his own table to be brought from Roanoke, as the great kings of Persia did 
theirs from the Nile, and Choaspis, because the waters of those rivers 
were light, and not apt to corrupt.(1)

   The great falls of Roanoke lie about twenty miles lower, to which a 
sloop of moderate burthen may come up. There are, besides these, many 
smaller falls above, though none that entirely intercept the passage of 
the river, as the great ones do, by a chain of rocks for eight miles 
together. The river forks about thirty-six miles higher, and both branches 
are pretty equal in breadth where they divide, though the southern, now 
called the Dan, runs up the farthest. That to the north runs away near 
north-west, and is called the Staunton, and heads not far from the source 
of Appomattox river, while the 

(1. The same humour prevails at this day in the kings of Denmark, who 
order all the East India ships of that nation to call at the cape of Good 
Hope, and take in a but of water from a spring on the Table Hill, and 
bring it to Copenhagen, for their majesties' own drinking.)

Page 42

Dan stretches away pretty near west, and runs clear through the great 
mountains.

   We did not follow the surveyors till towards noon, being detained in 
our camp to christen several more children. We were conducted a nearer 
way, by a famous woodsman, called Epaphroditus Bamton. This forester 
spends all his time in ranging the woods, and is said to make great havoc 
among the deer, and other inhabitants of the forest, not much wilder than 
himself.

   We proceeded to the canoe landing on Roanoke, where we passed the river 
with the baggage. But the horses were directed to a ford about a mile 
higher, called by the Indians Moni-seep, which signifies, in their jargon, 
shallow water. This is the ford where the Indian traders used to cross 
with their horses, in their way to the Catawba nation. There are many 
rocks in the river thereabouts, on which grows a kind of water grass, 
which the wild geese are fond of, and resort to it in great numbers. We 
landed on the south side of Roanoke, at a plantation of Col. Mumford's, 
where, by that gentleman's special directions, we met with sundry 
refreshments. Here we pitched our tent, for the benefit of the prospect, 
upon an eminence that overlooked a broad piece of low ground, very rich, 
though liable to be overflowed. By the way, one of our men killed another 
rattle-snake, with eleven rattles, having a large gray squirrel in his 
maw, the head of which was already digested, while the body remained still 
entire. The way these snakes catch their prey is thus: They ogle the poor 
little animal, till by force of the charm he falls down stupified and 
senseless on the ground. In that condition the snake approaches, and 
moistens first one ear and then the other with his spawl, and after that 
the other parts of the head, to make all slippery. When that is done, he 
draws this member into his mouth, and after it, by slow degrees, all the 
rest of the body.

   29th. This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon, at which 
several of the borderers assisted, and we concluded the duties of the day 
by christening five children. Our devotion being performed in the open 
field, like that of Mr. Whitfield's flocks, an unfortunate shower of rain 
had almost dispersed our congregation. About four in the afternoon the 
Carolina commissioners made a shift to come up with us, whom we had left 
at Pigeon-roost creek the Friday before, waiting for their provisions. 
When their cart came up they prudently discharged it, and rather chose to 
hire two men to carry some part of their baggage. The rest they had been 
obliged to leave behind, in the crotch of an old tree, for want of proper 
conveniences to transport it any farther.

   We found in the low ground several plants of the fern root, which is 
said to be much the strongest antidote yet discovered against the poison 
of the rattle-snake. The leaves of it resemble those of fern, from whence 
it obtained its name. Several stalks shoot from the same root, about six 
inches long, that lie mostly on the ground. It grows in a very rich soil, 
under the protection of some tall tree, that shades it from the meridian 
beams of the sun. The root has a faint spicy taste, and is preferred by 
the southern Indians to all other counter-poisons in this country. But 
there is another sort preferred by the northern Indians, that they call 
Seneca rattle-snake root, to which wonderful virtues are ascribed in the 
cure of pleurisies, fevers, rheumatisms, and dropsies; besides it being a 
powerful antidote against the venom of the rattlesnake.

   In the evening the messenger we had sent to Christiana returned with 
five Saponi Indians. We could not entirely rely on the dexterity of our 
own men, which induced us to send for some of the Indians. We agreed with 
two of the most expert of them, upon reasonable terms, to hunt for us the 
remaining part of our expedition. But one of them falling sick soon after, 

Page 43

we were content to take only the other, whose hunting name was Bear-skin. 
This Indian, either by his skill or good luck, supplied us plentifully all 
the way with meat, seldom discharging his piece in vain. By his 
assistance, therefore, we were able to keep our men to their business, 
without suffering them to straggle about the woods, on pretence of 
furnishing us with necessary food.

   30th. It had rained all night, and made every thing so wet, that our 
surveyors could not get to their work before noon. They could therefore 
measure no more than four miles and two hundred and twenty poles, which, 
according to the best information we could get, was near as high as the 
uppermost inhabitant at that time. We crossed the Indian trading path 
above-mentioned about a mile from our camp, and a mile beyond that forded 
Haw-tree creek. The woods we passed through had all the tokens of 
sterility, except a small poisoned field, on which grew no tree bigger 
than a slender sapling. The larger trees had been destroyed, either by 
fire or caterpillars, which is often the case in the upland woods, and the 
places where such desolation happens are called poisoned fields. We took 
up our quarters upon a branch of Great creek, where there was tolerable 
good grass for the poor horses. These poor animals having now got beyond 
the latitude of corn, were obliged to shift as well as they could for 
themselves.

   On our way the men roused a bear, which being the first we had seen 
since we came out, the poor beast had many pursuers. Several persons 
contended for the credit of killing him: though he was so poor he was not 
worth the powder. This was some disappointment to our woodsmen, who 
commonly prefer the flesh of bears to every kind of venison. There is 
something indeed peculiar to this animal, namely, that its fat is very 
firm, and may be eaten plentifully without rising in the stomach. The paw 
(which, when stripped of the hair, looks like a human foot,) is accounted 
a delicious morsel by all who are not shocked at the ungracious 
resemblance it bears to a human foot.

   October 1st. There was a white frost this morning on the ground, 
occasioned by a north-west wind, which stood our friend in dispersing all 
aguish damps, and making the air wholesome at the same time that it made 
it cold. Encouraged therefore by the weather, our surveyors got to work 
early, and by the benefit of clear woods, and level ground, drove the line 
twelve miles and twelve poles.

   At a small distance from our camp we crossed Great creek, and about 
seven miles further Nut-bush creek, so called from the many hazel-trees 
growing upon it. By good luck many branches of these creeks were full of 
reeds, to the great comfort of our horses. Near five miles from thence we 
encamped on a branch that runs into Nut-bush creek, where those reeds 
flourished more than ordinary. The land we marched over was for the most 
part broken and stony, and in some places covered over with thickets 
almost impenetrable. At night the surveyors, taking advantage of a clear 
sky, made a third trial of the variation, and found it still something 
less than three degrees, so that it did not diminish by advancing towards 
the west, or by approaching the mountains, nor yet by increasing our 
distance from the sea; but remained much the same we had found it at 
Coratuck inlet. One of our Indians killed a large fawn, which was very 
welcome, though, like Hudibras' horse, it had hardly flesh enough to cover 
its bones. In the low grounds the Carolina gentlemen showed us another 
plant, which they said was used in their country to cure the bite of the 
rattle-snake. It put forth several leaves in figure like a heart, and was 
clouded so like the common Assa-rabacca, that I conceived it to be of that 
family.

   2d. So soon as the horses could be found, we hurried away the 
surveyors, 

Page 44

who advanced the line nine miles and two hundred and fifty-four poles. 
About three miles from the camp they crossed a large creek, which the 
Indians called Massamoni, signifying, in their language, Paint creek, 
because of the great quantity of red ochre found in its banks. This in 
every fresh tinges the water just as the same mineral did formerly, and to 
this day continues to tinge, the famous river Adonis, in Phoenicia, by 
which there hangs a celebrated fable. Three miles beyond that we passed 
another water with difficulty, called Yapatsco, or Beaver creek. Those 
industrious animals had dammed up the water so high, that we had much ado 
to get over. It is hardly credible how much work of this kind they will do 
in the space of one night. They bite young saplings into proper lengths 
with their fore-teeth, which are exceeding strong and sharp, and 
afterwards drag them to the place where they intend to stop the water. 
Then they know how to join timber and earth together with so much skill, 
that their work is able to resist the most violent flood that can happen. 
In this they are qualified to instruct their betters, it being certain 
their dams will stand firm when the strongest that are made by men will be 
carried down the stream. We observed very broad low grounds upon this 
creek, with a growth of large trees, and all the other signs of fertility, 
but seemed subject to be every where overflowed in a fresh. The certain 
way to catch these sagacious animals is this: Squeeze all the juice out of 
the large pride of the beaver, and six drops out of the small pride. 
Powder the inward bark of sassafras, and mix it with this juice, then bait 
therewith a steel trap, and they will eagerly come to it, and be taken.

   About three miles and a half further we came to the banks of another 
creek, called, in the Saponi language, Ohimpa-moni, signifying Jumping 
creek, from the frequent jumping of fish during the spring season.

   Here we encamped, and by the time the horses were hobbled, our hunters 
brought us no less than a brace and a half of deer, which made great 
plenty, and consequently great content in our quarters. Some of our people 
had shot a great wild cat, which was that fatal moment making a 
comfortable meal upon a fox-squirrel, and an ambitious sportsman of our 
company claimed the merit of killing this monster after it was dead. The 
wild cat is as big again as any household cat, and much the fiercest 
inhabitant of the woods. Whenever it is disabled, it will tear its own 
flesh for madness. Although a panther will run away from a man, a wild cat 
will only make a surly retreat, and now and then facing about, if he be 
too closely pursued; and will even pursue in his turn, if he observe the 
least sign of fear or even of caution in those that pretend to follow him. 
The flesh of this beast, as well as of the panther, is as white as veal, 
and altogether as sweet and delicious.

   3d. We got to work early this morning, and carried the line eight miles 
and a hundred and sixty poles. We forded several runs of excellent water, 
and afterwards traversed a large level of high land full of lofty walnut, 
poplar, and white oak trees, which are certain proofs of a fruitful soil. 
This level was near two miles in length, and of an unknown breadth, quite 
out of danger of being overflowed, which is a misfortune most of the low 
grounds are liable to in those parts. As we marched along we saw many 
buffalo tracks, and abundance of their dung very fresh, but could not have 
the pleasure of seeing them. They either smelt us out, having that sense 
very quick, or else were alarmed at the noise that so many people must 
necessarily make in marching along. At the sight of a man they will snort 
and grunt, cock up their ridiculous short tails, and tear up the ground 
with a sort of timorous fury. These wild cattle hardly ever range alone, 
but herd together like those that are tame. They are seldom seen so far 
north as forty degrees of latitude, delighting much in canes and reeds, 
which grow generally more southerly.

   We quartered on the banks of a creek that the inhabitants call 
Tewahominy, 

Page 45

or Tuskarooda creek, because one of that nation had been killed there-
abouts, and his body thrown into the creek.

   Our people had the fortune to kill a brace of does, one of which we 
presented to the Carolina gentlemen, who were glad to partake of the 
bounty of Providence, at the same time that they sneered at us for 
depending upon it.

   4th. We hurried away the surveyors about nine this morning, who 
extended the line seven miles and a hundred and sixty poles, 
notwithstanding the ground was exceedingly uneven. At the distance of five 
miles we forded a stream to which we gave the name of Bluewing creek, 
because of the great number of those fowls that then frequented it. About 
two and a half miles beyond that, we came upon Sugar-tree creek, so called 
from the many trees of that kind that grow upon it. By tapping this tree, 
in the first warm weather in February, one may get from twenty to forty 
gallons of liquor, very sweet to the taste and agreeable to the stomach. 
This may be boiled into molasses first, and afterwards into very good 
sugar, allowing about ten gallons of the liquor to make a pound. There is 
no doubt, too, that a very fine spirit may be distilled from the molasses, 
at least as good as rum. The sugar tree delights only in rich ground, 
where it grows very tall, and by the softness and sponginess of the wood 
should be a quick grower. Near this creek we discovered likewise several 
spice trees, the leaves of which are fragrant, and the berries they bear 
are black when dry, and of a hot taste, not much unlike pepper. The low 
grounds upon the creek are very wide, sometimes on one side, sometimes on 
the other; though most commonly upon the opposite shore the high land 
advances close to the bank, only on the north side of the line it spreads 
itself into a great breadth of rich low ground on both sides the creek for 
four miles together, as far as this stream runs into Hico river, whereof I 
shall presently make mention. One of our men spied three buffaloes, but 
his piece being loaded only with goose-shot, he was able to make no 
effectual impression on their thick hides; however, this disappointment 
was made up by a brace of bucks, and as many wild turkeys, killed by the 
rest of the company. Thus Providence was very bountiful to our endeavours, 
never disappointing those that faithfully rely upon it, and pray heartily 
for their daily bread.

   5th. This day we met with such uneven grounds, and thick underwoods, 
that with all our industry we were able to advance the line but four miles 
and three hundred and twelve poles. In this small distance it intersected 
a large stream four times, which our Indian at first mistook for the south 
branch of Roanoke river; but, discovering his error soon after, he assured 
us it was a river called Hicootomony, or Turkey-buzzard river, from the 
great number of those unsavoury birds that roost on the tall trees growing 
near its banks.

   Early in the afternoon, to our very great surprise, the commissioners 
of Carolina acquainted us with their resolution to return home. This 
declaration of theirs seemed the more abrupt, because they had not been so 
kind as to prepare us, by the least hint, of their intention to desert us. 
We therefore let them understand they appeared to us to abandon the 
business they came about with too much precipitation, this being but the 
fifteenth day since we came out the last time. But, although we were to be 
so unhappy as to lose the assistance of their great abilities, yet we, who 
were concerned for Virginia, determined, by the grace of God, not to do 
our work by halves, but, all deserted as we were like to be, should think 
it our duty to push the line quite to the mountains; and if their 
government should refuse to be bound by so much of the line as was run 
without their commissioners, yet at least it would bind Virginia, and 
stand as a direction how far his majesty's lands extend to the southward. 
In short, these gentlemen were positive, and the most we could agree upon 
was to subscribe plots of our work as far as we had 

Page 46

acted together; though at the same time we insisted these plots should be 
gotten ready by Monday noon at farthest, when we on the part of Virginia 
intended, if we were alive, to move forward without farther loss of time, 
the season being then too far advanced to admit of any unnecessary or 
complaisant delays.

   6th. We lay still this day, being Sunday, on the bank of Hico river, 
and had only prayers, our chaplain not having spirits enough to preach. 
The gentlemen of Carolina assisted not at our public devotions, because 
they were taken up all the morning in making a formidable protest against 
our proceeding on the line without them. When the divine service was over, 
the surveyors set about making the plots of so much of the line as we had 
run this last campaign. Our pious friends of Carolina assisted in this 
work with some seeming scruple, pretending it was a violation of the 
sabbath, which we were the more surprised at, because it happened to be 
the first qualm of conscience they had ever been troubled with during the 
whole journey. They had made no bones of staying from prayers to hammer 
out an unnecessary protest, though divine service was no sooner over, but 
an unusual fit of godliness made them fancy that finishing the plots, 
which was now matter of necessity, was a profanation of the day. However, 
the expediency of losing no time, for us who thought it our duty to finish 
what we had undertaken, made such a labour pardonable.

   In the afternoon, Mr. Fitzwilliam, one of the commissioners for 
Virginia, acquainted his colleagues it was his opinion, that by his 
majesty's order they could not proceed farther on the line, but in 
conjunction with the commissioners of Carolina; for which reason he 
intended to retire, the next morning, with those gentlemen. This looked a 
little odd in our brother commissioner; though, in justice to him, as well 
as to our Carolina friends, they stuck by us as long as our good liquor 
lasted, and were so kind to us as to drink our good journey to the 
mountains in the last bottle we had left.

   7th. The duplicates of the plots could not be drawn fair this day 
before noon, when they were countersigned by the commissioners of each 
government. Then those of Carolina delivered their protest, which was by 
this time licked into form, and signed by them all. And we have been so 
just to them as to set it down at full length in the Appendix, that their 
reasons for leaving us may appear in their full strength. After having 
thus adjusted all our affairs with the Carolina commissioners, and kindly 
supplied them with bread to carry them back, which they hardly deserved at 
our hands, we took leave both of them and our colleague, Mr. Fitzwilliam. 
This gentleman had still a stronger reason for hurrying him back to 
Williamsburg, which was, that neither the general court might lose an able 
judge, nor himself a double salary, not despairing in the least but he 
should have the whole pay of commissioner into the bargain, though he did 
not half the work. This, to be sure, was relying more on the interest of 
his friends than on the justice of his cause; in which, however, he had 
the misfortune to miscarry, when it came to be fairly considered.

   It was two o'clock in the afternoon before these arduous affairs could 
be despatched, and then, all forsaken as we were, we held on our course 
towards the west. But it was our misfortune to meet with so many thickets 
in this afternoon's work, that we could advance no further than two miles 
and two hundred and sixty poles. In this small distance we crossed the 
Hico the fifth time, and quartered near Buffalo creek, so named from the 
frequent tokens we discovered of that American behemoth. Here the bushes 
were so intolerably thick, that we were obliged to cover the bread bags 
with our deer skins, otherwise the joke of one of the Indians must have 
happened to us in good earnest, that in a few days we must cut up our 
house to make bags for our 

Page 47

bread, and so be forced to expose our backs in compliment to our bellies. 
We computed we had then biscuit enough left to last us, with good 
management, seven weeks longer; and this being our chief dependence, it 
imported us to be very careful both in the carriage and the distribution 
of it.

   We had now no other drink but what Adam drank in Paradise, though to 
our comfort we found the water excellent, by the help of which we 
perceived our appetites to mend, our slumbers to sweeten, the stream of 
life to run cool and peaceably in our veins, and if ever we dreamed of 
women, they were kind. Our men killed a very fat buck and several turkeys. 
These two kinds of meat boiled together, with the addition of a little 
rice or French barley, made excellent soup, and, what happens rarely in 
other good things, it never cloyed, no more than an engaging wife would 
do, by being a constant dish. Our Indian was very superstitious in this 
matter, and told us, with a face full of concern, that if we continued to 
boil venison and turkey together, we should for the future kill nothing, 
because the spirit that presided over the woods would drive all the game 
out of our sight. But we had the happiness to find this an idle 
superstition, and though his argument could not convince us, yet our 
repeated experience at last, with much ado, convinced him. We observed 
abundance of colt's foot and maiden-hair in many places, and no where a 
larger quantity than here. They are both excellent pectoral plants, and 
seem to have greater virtues much in this part of the world than in more 
northern climates; and I believe it may pass for a rule in botanics, that 
where any vegetable is planted by the hand of nature, it has more virtue 
than in places whereto it is transplanted by the curiosity of man.

   8th. Notwithstanding we hurried away the surveyors very early, yet the 
underwoods embarrassed them so much that they could with difficulty 
advance the line four miles and twenty poles. Our clothes suffered 
extremely by the bushes, and it was really as much as both our hands could 
do to preserve our eyes in our heads. Our poor horses, too, could hardly 
drag their loads through the saplings, which stood so close together that 
it was necessary for them to draw and carry at the same time. We quartered 
near a spring of very fine water, as soft as oil and as cold as ice, to 
make us amends for the want of wine. And our Indian knocked down a very 
fat doe, just time enough to hinder us from going supperless to bed. The 
heavy baggage could not come up with us, because of the excessive badness 
of the ways. This gave us no small uneasiness, but it went worse with the 
poor men that guarded it. They had nothing in the world with them but dry 
bread, nor durst they eat any of that, for fear of inflaming their thirst, 
in a place where they could find no water to quench it. This was, however, 
the better to be endured, because it was the first fast any one had kept 
during the whole journey, and then, thanks to the gracious Guardian of the 
woods! there was no more than a single meal lost to a few of the company. 
We were entertained this night with the yell of a whole family of wolves, 
in which we could distinguish the treble, tenor and bass, very clearly. 
These beasts of prey kept pretty much upon our track, being tempted by the 
garbage of the creatures we killed every day; for which we were serenaded 
with their shrill pipes almost every night. This beast is not so 
untameable as the panther, but the Indians know how to gentle their 
whelps, and use them about their cabins instead of dogs.

   9th. The thickets were hereabouts so impenetrable, that we were 
obliged, at first setting off this morning, to order four pioneers to 
clear the way before the surveyors. But, after about two miles of these 
rough woods, we had the pleasure to meet with open grounds and not very 
uneven, by the help of which we were enabled to push the line about six 
miles. The baggage that lay short of our camp last night came up about 
noon, and the men made 

Page 48

heavy complaints, that they had been half starved, like Tantalus, in the 
midst of plenty, for the reason above mentioned.

   The soil we past over this day was generally very good, being clothed 
with large trees, of poplar, hickory and oak. But another certain token of 
its fertility was, that wild angelica grew plentifully upon it. The root 
of this plant, being very warm and aromatic, is coveted by woodsmen 
extremely as a dry dram, that is, when rum, that cordial for all 
distresses, is wanting. Several deer came into our view as we marched 
along, but none into the pot, which made it necessary for us to sup on the 
fragments we had been so provident as to carry along with us. This being 
but a temperate repast, made some of our hungry fellows call the place we 
lodged at that night, Bread and Water Camp.

   A great flock of cranes flew over our quarters, that were exceeding 
clamorous in their flight. They seem to steer their course towards the 
south (being birds of passage) in quest of warmer weather. They only took 
this country in their way, being as rarely met with, in this part of the 
world, as a highwayman or a beggar. These birds travel generally in 
flocks, and when they roost they place sentinels upon some of the highest 
trees, which constantly stand upon one leg to keep themselves waking.(1)

   Our Indian killed nothing all day but a mountain partridge, which a 
little resembled the common partridge in the plumage, but was near as 
large as a dunghill hen. These are very frequent towards the mountains, 
though we had the fortune to meet with very few. They are apt to be shy, 
and consequently the noise of so great a number of people might easily 
scare them away from our sight. We found what we conceived to be good 
limestone in several places, and a great quantity of blue slate.

   10th. The day began very fortunately by killing a fat doe, and two 
brace of wild turkeys; so the plenty of the morning made amends for the 
short commons over night. One of the new men we brought out with us the 
last time was unfortunately heard to wish himself at home, and for that 
show of impatience was publicly reprimanded at the head of the men, who 
were all drawn up to witness his disgrace. He was asked how he came so 
soon to be tired of the company of so many brave fellows, and whether it 
was the danger or the fatigue of the journey that disheartened him? This 
public re-proof from thenceforward put an effectual stop to all 
complaints, and not a man amongst us after that pretended so much as to 
wish himself in Paradise. A small distance from our camp we crossed a 
pleasant stream of water called Cocquade creek, and something more than a 
mile from thence our line intersected the south branch of Roanoke river 
the first time, which we called the Dan. It was about two hundred yards 
wide where we forded it, and when we came over to the west side, we found 
the banks lined with a forest of tall canes, that grew more than a furlong 
in depth. So that it cost us abundance of time and labour to cut a passage 
through them wide enough for our baggage. In the mean time we had leisure 
to take a full view of this charming river. The stream, which was 
perfectly clear, ran down about 

(1. Nor are these birds the only animals that appoint scouts to keep the 
main body from being surprised. For the baboons, whenever they go upon any 
mischievous expedition, such as robbing an orchard, place sentinels to 
look out towards every point of the compass, and give notice of any 
danger. Then ranking themselves in one file, that reaches from the 
mountain where they harbour, to the orchard they intend to rob, some of 
them toss the fruits from the trees to those that stand nearest, these 
throw them to the next, and so from one to the other, till the fruit is 
all secured in a few minutes out of harm's way. In the mean time, if any 
of the scouts should be careless at their posts, and suffer any surprise, 
they are torn to pieces without mercy. In case of danger these sentinels 
set up a fearful cry, upon which the rest take the alarm, and scour away 
to the mountains as fast as they can.)

Page 49

two knots, or two miles, an hour, when the water was at the lowest. The 
bottom was covered with a coarse gravel, spangled very thick with a 
shining substance, that almost dazzled the eye, and the sand upon either 
shore sparkled with the same splendid particles. At first sight, the 
sunbeams giving a yellow cast to these spangles made us fancy them to be 
gold dust, and consequently that all our fortunes were made. Such hopes as 
these were the less extravagant, because several rivers lying much about 
the same latitude with this have formerly abounded with fragments of that 
tempting metal. Witness the Tagus in Portugal, the Heber in Thrace, and 
the Pactolus in Lesser Asia; not to mention the rivers on the Gold Coast 
in Africa, which lie in a more southern climate. But we soon found 
ourselves mistaken, and our gold dust dwindled into small flakes of 
isinglass. However, though this did not make the river so rich as we could 
wish, yet it made it exceedingly beautiful. We marched about two miles and 
a half beyond this river, as far as Cane creek, so called from a 
prodigious quantity of tall canes that fringed the banks of it. On the 
west side of this creek we marked out our quarters, and were glad to find 
our horses fond of the canes, though they scoured them smartly at first, 
and discoloured their dung. This beautiful vegetable grows commonly from 
twelve to sixteen feet high, and some of them as thick as a man's wrist. 
Though these appeared large to us, yet they are no more than spires of 
grass, if compared to those which some curious travellers tell us grow in 
the East Indies, one joint of which will make a brace of canoes, if sawed 
in two in the middle. Ours continue green through all the seasons during 
the space of six years, and the seventh shed their seed, wither away and 
die. The spring following they begin to shoot again, and reach their 
former stature the second or third year after. They grow so thick, and 
their roots lace together so firmly, that they are the best guard that can 
be of the river bank, which would otherwise be washed away by the frequent 
inundations that happen in this part of the world. They would also serve 
excellently well to plant on the borders of fish-ponds and canals, to 
secure their sides from falling in; though I fear they would not grow 
kindly in a cold country, being seldom seen here so northerly as thirty-
eight degrees of latitude.

   11th. At the distance of four miles and sixty poles from the place 
where we encamped, we came upon the river Dan a second time; though it was 
not so wide in this place as where we crossed it first, being not above a 
hundred and fifty yards over. The west shore continued to be covered with 
the canes above mentioned, but not to so great a breadth as before, and it 
is remarkable that these canes are much more frequent on the west side of 
the river than on the east, where they grow generally very scattering. It 
was still a beautiful stream, rolling down its limpid and murmuring waters 
among the rocks, which lay scattered here and there, to make up the 
variety of the prospect. It was about two miles from this river to the end 
of our day's work, which led us mostly over broken grounds and troublesome 
underwoods. Hereabout, from one of the highest hills, we made the first 
discovery of the mountains, on the north-west of our course. They seemed 
to lie off at a vast distance, and looked like ranges of blue clouds 
rising one above another. We encamped about two miles beyond the river, 
where we made good cheer upon a very fat buck, that luckily fell in our 
way. The Indian likewise shot a wild turkey, but confessed he would not 
bring it us, lest we should continue to provoke the guardian of the 
forest, by cooking the beasts of the field and the birds of the air 
together in one vessel. This instance of Indian superstition, I confess, 
is countenanced in some measure by the Levitical law, which forbade the 
mixing things of a different nature together in the same field, or in the 
same garment, and why not then in the same kettle? But, after all, if the 

Page 50

jumbling of two sorts of flesh together be a sin, how intolerable an 
offence must it be to make a Spanish olla, that is, a hotchpotch of every 
kind of thing that is eatable? And the good people of England would have a 
great deal to answer for, for beating up so many different ingredients 
into a pudding.

   12th. We were so cruelly entangled with bushes and grape-vines all day, 
that we could advance the line no farther than five miles and twenty-eight 
poles. The vines grow very thick in these woods, twining lovingly round 
the trees almost every where, especially to the saplings. This makes it 
evident how natural both the soil and climate of this country are to 
vines, though I believe most to our own vines. The grapes we commonly met 
with were black, though there be two or three kinds of white grapes that 
grow wild. The black are very sweet, but small, because the strength of 
the vine spends itself in wood; though without question a proper culture 
would make the same grapes both larger and sweeter. But, with all these 
disadvantages, I have drunk tolerable good wine pressed from them, though 
made without skill. There is then good reason to believe it might admit of 
great improvement, if rightly managed. Our Indian killed a bear, two years 
old, that was feasting on these grapes. He was very fat, as they generally 
are in that season of the year. In the fall, the flesh of this animal has 
a high relish, different from that of other creatures, though inclining 
nearest to that of pork, or rather of wild boar. A true woodsman prefers 
this sort of meat to that of the fattest venison, not only for the haut 
gout, but also because the fat of it is well tasted, and never rises in 
the stomach. Another proof of the goodness of this meat is, that it is 
less apt to corrupt than any other with which we are acquainted. As 
agreeable as such rich diet was to the men, yet we who were not accustomed 
to it, tasted it at first with some sort of squeamishness, that animal 
being of the dog kind; though a little use soon reconciled us to this 
American venison. And that its being of the dog kind might give us the 
less disgust, we had the example of that ancient and polite people, the 
Chinese, who reckon dog's flesh too good for any under the quality of a 
mandarin. This beast is in truth a very clean feeder, living, while the 
season lasts, upon acorns, chestnuts and chinquapins, wild honey and wild 
grapes. They are naturally not carnivorous, unless hunger constrain them 
to it, after the mast is all gone, and the product of the woods quite 
exhausted. They are not provident enough to lay up any hoard, like the 
squirrels, nor can they, after all, live very long upon licking their 
paws, as sir John Mandevil and some other travellers tell us, but are 
forced in the winter months to quit the mountains, and visit the 
inhabitants. Their errand is then to surprise a poor hog at a pinch to 
keep them from starving. And to show that they are not flesh-eaters by 
trade, they devour their prey very awkwardly. They do not kill it right 
out, and feast upon its blood and entrails, like other ravenous beasts, 
but having, after a fair pursuit, seized it with their paws, they begin 
first upon the rump, and so devour one collop after another, till they 
come to the vitals, the poor animal crying all the while, for several 
minutes together. However, in so doing, Bruin acts a little imprudently, 
because the dismal outcry of the hog alarms the neighbourhood, and it is 
odds but he pays the forfeit with his life, before he can secure his 
retreat. But bears soon grow weary of this unnatural diet, and about 
January, when there is nothing to be gotten in the woods, they retire into 
some cave or hollow tree, where they sleep away two or three months very 
comfortably. But then they quit their holes in March, when the fish begin 
to run up the rivers, on which they are forced to keep Lent, till some 
fruit or berry comes in season. But bears are fondest of chestnuts, which 
grow plentifully towards the mountains, upon very large trees, where the 
soil happens to be rich. We were curious to know how it happened that many 
of the outward branches of those trees came to be broken 

Page 51

off in that solitary place, and were informed that the bears are so 
discreet as not to trust their unwieldy bodies on the smaller limbs of the 
tree, that would not bear their weight; but after venturing as far as is 
safe, which they can judge to an inch, they bite off the end of the 
branch, which falling down, they are content to finish their repast upon 
the ground. In the same cautious manner they secure the acorns that grow 
on the weaker limbs of the oak. And it must be allowed that, in these 
instances, a bear carries instinct a great way, and acts more reasonably 
than many of his betters, who indiscreetly venture upon frail projects 
that will not bear them.

   13th. This being Sunday, we rested from our fatigue, and had leisure to 
reflect on the signal mercies of Providence.

   The great plenty of meat wherewith Bearskin furnished us in these 
lonely woods made us once more shorten the men's allowance of bread, from 
five to four pounds of biscuit a week. This was the more necessary, 
because we knew not yet how long our business might require us to be out.

   In the afternoon our hunters went forth, and returned triumphantly with 
three brace of wild turkeys. They told us they could see the mountains 
distinctly from every eminence, though the atmosphere was so thick with 
smoke that they appeared at a greater distance than they really were.

   In the evening we examined our friend Bearskin, concerning the religion 
of his country, and he explained it to us, without any of that reserve to 
which his nation is subject. He told us he believed there was one supreme 
God, who had several subaltern deities under him. And that this master God 
made the world a long time ago. That he told the sun, the moon, and stars, 
their business in the beginning, which they, with good looking after, have 
faithfully performed ever since. That the same Power that made all things 
at first has taken care to keep them in the same method and motion ever 
since. He believed that God had formed many worlds before he formed this, 
but that those worlds either grew old and ruinous, or were destroyed for 
the dishonesty of the inhabitants. That God is very just and very good--
ever well pleased with those men who possess those god-like qualities. 
That he takes good people into his safe protection, makes them very rich, 
fills their bellies plentifully, preserves them from sickness, and from 
being surprised or overcome by their enemies. But all such as tell lies, 
and cheat those they have dealings with, he never fails to punish with 
sickness, poverty and hunger, and, after all that, suffers them to be 
knocked on the head and scalped by those that fight against them. He 
believed that after death both good and bad people are conducted by a 
strong guard into a great road, in which departed souls travel together 
for some time, till at a certain distance this road forks into two paths, 
the one extremely level, and the other stony and mountainous. Here the 
good are parted from the bad by a flash of lightning, the first being 
hurried away to the right, the other to the left. The right hand road 
leads to a charming warm country, where the spring is everlasting, and 
every month is May; and as the year is always in its youth, so are the 
people, and particularly the women are bright as stars, and never scold. 
That in this happy climate there are deer, turkeys, elks, and buffaloes 
innumerable, perpetually fat and gentle, while the trees are loaded with 
delicious fruit quite throughout the four seasons. That the soil brings 
forth corn spontaneously, without the curse of labour, and so very 
wholesome, that none who have the happiness to eat of it are ever sick, 
grow old, or die. Near the entrance into this blessed land sits a 
venerable old man on a mat richly woven, who examines strictly all that 
are brought before him, and if they have behaved well, the guards are 
ordered to open the crystal gate, and let them enter into the land of 
delight. The left hand path is very rugged and uneven, leading to a dark 
and barren country, where it is always winter. The ground is the whole 
year round covered 

Page 52

with snow, and nothing is to be seen upon the trees but icicles. All the 
people are hungry, yet have not a morsel of any thing to eat, except a 
bitter kind of potato, that gives them the dry gripes, and fills their 
whole body with loathsome ulcers, that stink, and are insupportably 
painful. Here all the women are old and ugly, having claws like a panther, 
with which they fly upon the men that slight their passion. For it seems 
these haggard old furies are intolerably fond, and expect a vast deal of 
cherishing. They talk much, and exceedingly shrill, giving exquisite pain 
to the drum of the ear, which in that place of torment is so tender, that 
every sharp note wounds it to the quick. At the end of this path sits a 
dreadful old woman on a monstrous toad-stool, whose head is covered with 
rattle-snakes instead of tresses, with glaring white eyes, that strike a 
terror unspeakable into all that behold her. This hag pronounces sentence 
of woe upon all the miserable wretches that hold up their hands at her 
tribunal. After this they are delivered over to huge turkey-buzzards, like 
harpies, that fly away with them to the place above mentioned. Here, after 
they have been tormented a certain number of years, according to their 
several degrees of guilt, they are again driven back into this world, to 
try if they will mend their manners, and merit a place the next time in 
the regions of bliss. This was the substance of Bearskin's religion, and 
was as much to the purpose as could be expected from a mere state of 
nature, without one glimpse of revelation or philosophy. It contained, 
however, the three great articles of natural religion: the belief of a 
God; the moral distinction betwixt good and evil; and the expectation of 
rewards and punishments in another world. Indeed, the Indian notion of a 
future happiness is a little gross and sensual, like Mahomet's paradise. 
But how can it be otherwise, in a people that are contented with Nature as 
they find her, and have no other lights but what they receive from 
purblind tradition?

   14th. There having been great signs of rain yesterday evening, we had 
taken our precautions in securing the bread, and trenching in our tent. 
The men had also stretched their blankets upon poles, pent-house fashion, 
against the weather, so that nobody was taken unprepared. It began to fall 
heavily about three o'clock in the morning, and held not up till near 
noon. Every thing was so thoroughly soaked, that we laid aside all 
thoughts of decamping that day. This gave leisure to the most expert of 
our gunners to go and try their fortunes, and they succeeded so well, that 
they returned about noon with three fat deer, and four wild turkeys. Thus 
Providence took care of us, and however short the men might be in their 
bread, it is certain they had meat at full allowance. The cookery went on 
merrily all night long, to keep the damps from entering our pores; and in 
truth the impressions of the air are much more powerful upon empty 
stomachs. In such a glut of provisions, a true woodsman, when he has 
nothing else to do, like our honest countrymen the Indians, keeps eating 
on, to avoid the imputation of idleness; though, in a scarcity, the Indian 
will fast with a much better grace than they. They can subsist several 
days upon a little rockahominy, which is parched Indian corn reduced to 
powder. This they moisten in the hollow of their hands with a little 
water, and it is hardly credible how small a quantity of it will support 
them. It is true they grow a little lank upon it, but to make themselves 
feel full, they gird up their loins very tight with a belt, taking up a 
hole every day. With this slender subsistence they are able to travel very 
long journeys; but then, to make themselves amends, when they do meet with 
better cheer, they eat without ceasing, till they have ravened themselves 
into another famine.

   This was the first time we had ever been detained a whole day in our 
camp by the rain, and therefore had reason to bear it with the more 
patience.

* * * * * *

Page 53

   The few good husbands amongst us took some thought of their backs as 
well as their bellies, and made use of this opportunity to put their 
habiliments in repair, which had suffered wofully by the bushes. The 
horses got some rest, by reason of the bad weather, but very little food, 
the chief of their forage being a little wild rosemary, which resembles 
the garden rosemary pretty much in figure, but not at all in taste or 
smell. This plant grows in small tufts here and there on the barren land 
in these upper parts, and the horses liked it well, but the misfortune 
was, they could not get enough of it to fill their bellies.

   15th. After the clouds broke away in the morning, the people dried 
their blankets with all diligence. Nevertheless, it was noon before we 
were in condition to move forward, and then were so puzzled with passing 
the river twice in a small distance, that we could advance the line in all 
no further than one single mile and three hundred poles. The first time we 
passed the Dan this day was two hundred and forty poles from the place 
where we lay, and the second time was one mile and seven poles beyond 
that. This was now the fourth time we forded that fine river, which still 
tended westerly, with many short and returning reaches.

   The surveyors had much difficulty in getting over the river, finding it 
deeper than formerly. The breadth of it here did not exceed fifty yards. 
The banks were about twenty feet high from the water, and beautifully 
beset with canes. Our baggage horses crossed not the river here at all, 
but, fetching a compass, went round the bend of it. On our way we forded 
Sable creek, so called from the dark colour of the water, which happened, 
I suppose, by its being shaded on both sides with canes.

   In the evening we quartered in a charming situation near the angle of 
the river, from whence our eyes were carried down both reaches, which kept 
a straight course for a great way together. This prospect was so 
beautiful, that we were perpetually climbing up to a neighbouring 
eminence, that we might enjoy it in more perfection.

   Now the weather grew cool, the wild geese began to direct their flight 
this way from Hudson's bay, and the lakes that lay north-west of us. They 
are very lean at their first coming, but fatten soon upon a sort of grass 
that grows on the shores and rocks of this river. The Indians call this 
fowl cohunks, from the hoarse note it has, and begin the year from the 
coming of the cohunks, which happens in the beginning of October. These 
wild geese are guarded from cold by a down, that is exquisitely soft and 
fine, which makes them much more valuable for their feathers than for 
their flesh, which is dark and coarse.

   The men chased a bear into the river that got safe over, 
notwithstanding the continual fire from the shore upon him. He seemed to 
swim but heavily, considering it was for his life. Where the water is 
shallow, it is no uncommon thing to see a bear sitting, in the summer 
time, on a heap of gravel in the middle of the river, not only to cool 
himself, but likewise for the advantage of fishing, particularly for a 
small shell-fish, that is brought down with the stream. In the upper part 
of James river I have observed this several times, and wondered very much, 
at first, how so many heaps of small stones came to be piled up in the 
water, till at last we spied a bear sitting upon one of them, looking with 
great attention on the stream, and raking up something with his paw, which 
I take to be the shell-fish above mentioned.

   16th. It was ten o'clock this morning before the horses could be found, 
having hidden themselves among the canes, whereof there was great plenty 
just at hand. Not far from our camp we went over a brook, whose banks were 
edged on both sides with these canes. But three miles further we 

Page 54

forded a larger stream, which we called Lowland creek, by reason of the 
great breadth of low grounds inclosed between that and the river.

   The high land we travelled over was very good, and the low grounds 
promised the greatest fertility of any I had ever seen. At the end of four 
miles and three hundred and eleven poles from where we lay, the line 
intersected the Dan the fifth time. We had day enough to carry it farther, 
but the surveyors could find no safe ford over the river. This obliged us 
to ride two miles up the river in quest of a ford, and by the way we 
traversed several small Indian fields, where we conjectured the Sawroes 
had been used to plant corn, the town where they had lived lying seven or 
eight miles more southerly, upon the eastern side of the river. These 
Indian fields produced a sweet kind of grass, almost knee-high, which was 
excellent forage for the horses. It must be observed, by the way, that 
Indian towns, like religious houses, are remarkable for a fruitful 
situation; for being by nature not very industrious, they choose such a 
situation as will subsist them with the least labour. The trees grew 
surprisingly large in this low ground, and amongst the rest we observed a 
tall kind of hickory, peculiar to the upper parts of the country. It is 
covered with a very rough bark, and produces a nut with a thick shell that 
is easily broken. The kernel is not so rank as that of the common hickory, 
but altogether as oily. And now I am upon the subject of these nuts, it 
may not be improper to remark, that a very great benefit might be made of 
nut-oil in this colony. The walnuts, the hickory-nuts, and pignuts, 
contain a vast deal of oil, that might be pressed out in great abundance 
with proper machines. The trees grow very kindly, and may be easily 
propagated. They bear plenty of nuts every year, that are now of no other 
use in the world but to feed hogs. It is certain there is a large 
consumption of this oil in several of our manufactures, and in some parts 
of France, as well as in other countries, it is eaten instead of oil-
olive, being tolerably sweet and wholesome. The Indian killed a fat buck, 
and the men brought in four bears and a brace of wild turkeys, so that 
this was truly a land of plenty, both for man and beast.

   17th. We detached a party of men this morning early in search of a 
ford, who after all could find none that was safe; though, dangerous as it 
was, we determined to make use of it, to avoid all further delay. 
Accordingly we rode over a narrow ledge of rocks, some of which lay below 
the surface of the water, and some above it. Those that lay under the 
water were as slippery as ice; and the current glided over them so swifty, 
that though it was only water, it made us perfectly drunk. Yet we were all 
so fortunate as to get safe over to the west shore, with no other damage 
than the sopping some of our bread by the flouncing of the horses. The 
tedious time spent in finding out this ford, and in getting all the horses 
over it, prevented our carrying the line more than two miles and two 
hundred and fifty poles. This was the last time we crossed the Dan with 
our line, which now began to run away more southerly, with a very flush 
and plentiful stream, the description whereof must be left to future 
discoveries, though we are well assured by the Indians that it runs 
through the mountains. We conducted the baggage a roundabout way for the 
benefit of evener grounds, and this carried us over a broad level of 
exceeding rich land, full of large trees, with vines married to them, if I 
may be allowed to speak so poetically. We untreed a young cub in our 
march, that made a brave stand against one of the best of our dogs. This 
and a fawn were all the game that came in our way. In this day's journey, 
as in many others before, we saw beautiful marble of several colours, and 
particularly that of the purple kind with white streaks, and in some 
places we came across large pieces of pure alabaster. 

Page 55

We marked out our quarters on the banks of a purling stream, which we 
called Cascade creek, by reason of the multitude of water-falls that are 
in it. But, different from all other falls that ever I met with, the rocks 
over which the water rolled were soft, and would split easily into broad 
flakes, very proper for pavement; and some fragments of it seemed soft 
enough for hones, and the grain fine enough. Near our camp we found a 
prickly shrub, rising about a foot from the ground, something like that 
which bears the barberry, though much smaller. The leaves had a fresh, 
agreeable smell, and I am persuaded the ladies would be apt to fancy a tea 
made of them, provided they were told how far it came, and at the same 
time were obliged to buy it very dear. About a mile to the south-west of 
our camp rose a regular mount, that commanded a full prospect of the 
mountains, and an extensive view of the flat country. But being, with 
respect to the high mountains, no more than a pimple, we called it by that 
name. Presently after sunset we discovered a great light towards the west, 
too bright for a fire, and more resembling the aurora borealis. This, all 
our woodsmen told us, was a common appearance in the high lands, and 
generally foreboded bad weather. Their explanation happened to be exactly 
true, for in the night we had a violent gale of wind, accompanied with 
smart hail, that rattled frightfully amongst the trees, though it was not 
large enough to do us any harm.

   We crossed Cascade creek over a ledge of smooth rocks, and then 
scuffled through a mighty thicket, at least three miles long. The whole 
was one continued tract of rich high land, the woods whereof had been 
burnt not long before. It was then overgrown with saplings of oak, hickory 
and locust, interlaced with grape vines. In this fine land, however, we 
met with no water, till at the end of three miles we luckily came upon a 
crystal stream, which, like some lovers of conversation, discovered every 
thing committed to its faithless bosom. Then we came upon a piece of rich 
low ground, covered with large trees, of the extent of half a mile, which 
made us fancy ourselves not far from the river; though after that we 
ascended gently to higher land, with no other trees growing upon it except 
butter-wood, which is one species of white maple. This being a dead level, 
without the least declivity to carry off the water, was moist in many 
places, and produced abundance of grass. All our woodsmen call these flat 
grounds high land ponds, and in their trading journeys are glad to halt at 
such places for several days together, to recruit their jaded horses, 
especially in the winter months, when there is little or no grass to be 
found in other places. This high land pond extended above two miles, our 
palfries snatching greedily at the tufts of grass, as they went along. 
After we got over this level, we descended some stony hills for about half 
a mile, and then came upon a large branch of the river, which we 
christened the Irvin, in honour of our learned professor. This river we 
forded with much difficulty and some danger, by reason of the hollow 
spaces betwixt the rocks, into which our horses plunged almost every step. 
The Irvin runs into the Dan about four miles to the southward of the line, 
and seemed to roll down its waters from the N. N. W. in a very full and 
limpid stream, and the murmur it made, in tumbling over the rocks, caused 
the situation to appear very romantic, and had almost made some of the 
company poetical, though they drank nothing but water. We encamped on a 
pleasant hill, overlooking the river, which seemed to be deep every where 
except just where we forded. In the mean time, neither that chain of 
rocks, nor any other that we could observe in this stream, was so 
uninterrupted, but that there were several breaks where a canoe, or even a 
moderate flat-bottomed boat, might shear clear. Nor have we reason to 
believe there are any other falls (except the great ones, thirty miles 
below Moniseep ford) that reach quite across, so as to interrupt the 
navigation for small craft. And I have been informed that, even at those 

Page 56

great falls, the blowing up a few rocks would open a passage at least for 
canoes, which certainly would be an unspeakable convenience to the 
inhabitants of all that beautiful part of the country. The Indian killed a 
very fat doe, and came across a bear, which had been put to death and was 
half devoured by a panther. The last of these brutes reigns absolute 
monarch of the woods, and in the keenness of his hunger will venture to 
attack a bear; though then it is ever by surprise, as all beasts of the 
cat kind use to come upon their prey. Their play is to take the poor bears 
napping, they being very drowsy animals, and though they be exceedingly 
strong, yet their strength is heavy, while the panthers are too nimble and 
cunning to trust themselves within their hug. As formidable as this beast 
is to his fellow brutes, he never has the confidence to venture upon a 
man, but retires from him with great respect, if there be a way open for 
his escape. However, it must be confest, his voice is a little 
contemptible for a monarch of the forest, being not a great deal louder 
nor more awful than the mewing of a household cat.(1)

   In South Carolina they call this beast a tiger, though improperly, and 
so they do in some parts of the Spanish West Indies. Some of their 
authors, a little more properly, compliment it with the name of a leopard. 
But none of these are the growth of America, that we know of.

   The whole distance the surveyors advanced the line this day amounted to 
six miles and thirty poles, which was no small journey, considering the 
grounds we had traversed were exceedingly rough and uneven, and in many 
places intolerably entangled with bushes. All the hills we ascended were 
encumbered with stones, many of which seemed to contain a metallic 
substance, and the valleys we crossed were interrupted with miry branches. 
From the top of every hill we could discern distinctly, at a great 
distance to the northward, three or four ledges of mountains, rising one 
above another; and on the highest of all rose a single mountain, very much 
resembling a woman's breast.

   19th. About four miles beyond the river Irvin, we forded Matrimony 
creek, called so by an unfortunate married man, because it was exceedingly 
noisy and impetuous. However, though the stream was clamorous, yet, like 
those women who make themselves plainest heard, it was likewise perfectly 
clear and unsullied. Still half a mile further we saw a small mountain, 
about five miles to the north-west of us, which we called the Wart, 
because it appeared no bigger than a wart, in comparison of the great 
mountains which hid their haughty heads in the clouds. We were not able to 
extend the line farther than five miles and one hundred and thirty five 
poles, not withstanding we began our march early in the morning, and did 
not encamp till it was almost dark. We made it the later by endeavouring 
to quarter in some convenient situation, either for grass or canes. But 
night surprising us, we were obliged to lodge at last upon high and uneven 
ground, which was so overgrown with shrubs and saplings, that we could 
hardly see ten yards around us. The most melancholy part of the story was, 
that our horses had short commons. The poor creatures were now grown so 
weak that they staggered when we mounted them. Nor would our own fare have 
been at all more plentiful, had we not been so provident as to carry a 
load of meat along with us. Indeed, the woods were too thick to show us 
any sort of game but one wild turkey, which helped to enrich our soup. To 
make us amends, we found 

(1. Some authors, who have given an account of the southern continent of 
America, would make the world believe there are lions; but in all 
likelihood they were mistaken, imagining these panthers to be lions. What 
makes this probable is, that the northern and southern parts of America 
being joined by the Isthmus of Darien, if there were lions in either they 
would find their way into the other, the latitudes of each being equally 
proper for that generous animal.)

Page 57

abundance of very sweet grapes, which, with the help of bread, might have 
furnished out a good Italian repast, in the absence of more savoury food. 
The men's mouths watered at the sight of a prodigious flight of wild 
pigeons, which flew high over our heads to the southward. The flocks of 
these birds of passage are so amazingly great, sometimes, that they darken 
the sky; nor is it uncommon for them to light in such numbers in the 
larger limbs of mulberry trees and oaks as to break them down. In their 
travels they make vast havoc amongst the acorns and berries of all sorts, 
that they waste whole forests in a short time, and leave a famine behind 
them for most other creatures; and under some trees where they light, it 
is no strange thing to find the ground covered three inches thick with 
their dung. These wild pigeons commonly breed in the uninhabited parts of 
Canada, and as the cold approaches assemble their armies and bend their 
course southerly, shifting their quarters, like many of the winged kind, 
according to the season. But the most remarkable thing in their flight, as 
we are told, is that they never have been observed to return to the 
northern countries the same way they came from thence, but take quite 
another route, I suppose for their better subsistence. In these long 
flights they are very lean, and their flesh is far from being white or 
tender, though good enough upon a march, when hunger is the sauce, and 
makes it go down better than truffles and morels would do.

   20th. It was now Sunday, which we had like to have spent in fasting as 
well as prayer; for our men, taking no care for the morrow, like good 
Christians, but bad travellers, had improvidently devoured all their meat 
for supper. They were ordered in the morning to drive up their horses, 
lest they should stray too far from the camp and be lost, in case they 
were let alone all day. At their return they had the very great comfort to 
behold a monstrous fat bear, which the Indian had killed very seasonably 
for their breakfast. We thought it still necessary to make another 
reduction of our bread, from four to three pounds a week to every man, 
computing that we had still enough in that proportion to last us three 
weeks longer. The atmosphere was so smoky all round us, that the mountains 
were again grown invisible. This happened not from the haziness of the 
sky, but from the firing of the woods by the Indians, for we were now near 
the route the the northern savages take when they go out to war against 
the Catawbas and other southern nations. On their way the fires they make 
in their camps are left burning, which, catching the dry leaves that lie 
near, soon put the adjacent woods into a flame. Some of our men in search 
of their horses discovered one of those Indian camps, where not long 
before they had been a furring and dressing their skins. And now I mention 
the northern Indians, it may not be improper to take notice of their 
implacable hatred to those of the south. Their wars are everlasting, 
without any peace, enmity being the only inheritance among them that 
descends from father to son, and either party will march a thousand miles 
to take their revenge upon such hereditary enemies. These long expeditions 
are commonly carried on in the following manner; some Indian, remarkable 
for his prowess, that has raised himself to the reputation of a war 
captain, declares his intention of paying a visit to some southern nation; 
hereupon as many of the young fellows as have either a strong thirst of 
blood or glory, list themselves under his command. With these volunteers 
he goes from one confederate town to another, listing all the rabble he 
can, till he has gathered together a competent number for mischief. Their 
arms are a gun and tomahawk, and all the provisions they carry from home 
is a pouch of rockahominy. Thus provided and accoutred, they march towards 
their enemy's country, not in a body, or by a certain path, but straggling 
in small numbers, for the greater convenience of hunting and passing along 
undiscovered. 

Page 58

So soon as they approach the grounds on which the enemy is used to hunt, 
they never kindle any fire themselves, for fear of being found out by the 
smoke, nor will they shoot at any kind of game, though they should be half 
famished, lest they might alarm their foes, and put them upon their guard. 
Sometimes indeed, while they are still at some distance, they roast either 
venison or bear, till it is very dry, and then having strung it on their 
belts, wear it round their middle, eating very sparingly of it, because 
they know not when they shall meet with a fresh supply. But coming nearer, 
they begin to look all round the hemisphere, to watch if any smoke 
ascends, and listen continually for the report of guns, in order to make 
some happy discovery for their own advantage. It is amazing to see their 
sagacity in discerning the track of a human foot, even amongst dry leaves, 
which to our shorter sight is quite undiscoverable. If by one or more of 
those signs they be able to find out the camp of any southern Indians, 
they squat down in some thicket, and keep themselves hush and snug till it 
is dark; then creeping up softly, they approach near enough to observe all 
the motions of the enemy. And about two o'clock in the morning, when they 
conceive them to be in a profound sleep, for they never keep watch and 
ward, pour in a volley upon them, each singling out his man. The moment 
they have discharged their pieces, they rush in with their tomahawks, and 
make sure work of all that are disabled. Sometimes, when they find the 
enemy asleep round their little fire, they first pelt them with little 
stones to wake them, and when they get up, fire in upon them, being in 
that posture a better mark than when prostrate on the ground. Those that 
are killed of the enemy, or disabled, they scalp, that is, they cut the 
skin all round the head just below the hair, and then clapping their feet 
to the poor mortals' shoulders, pull the scalp off clean, and carry it 
home in triumph, being as proud of those trophies, as the Jews used to be 
of the foreskins of the Philistines. This way of scalping was practised by 
the ancient Scythians, who used these hairy scalps as towels at home, and 
trappings for their horses when they went abroad. They also made cups of 
their enemies' skulls, in which they drank prosperity to their country, 
and confusion to all their foes. The prisoners they happen to take alive 
in these expeditions generally pass their time very scurvily. They put 
them to all the tortures that ingenious malice and cruelty can invent. And 
(what shows the baseness of the Indian temper in perfection) they never 
fail to treat those with greatest inhumanity that have distinguished 
themselves most by their bravery; and, if he be a war captain, they do him 
the honour to roast him alive, and distribute a collop to all that had a 
share in stealing the victory.(1)

   They are very cunning in finding out new ways to torment their unhappy 
captives, though, like those of hell, their usual method is by fire. 
Sometimes they barbacue them over live coals, taking them off every now 
and then, to prolong their misery; at other times they will stick sharp 
pieces of lightwood all over their bodies, and setting them on fire, let 
them burn down into the flesh to the very bone. And when they take a stout 
fellow, that they believe able to endure a great deal, they will tear all 
the flesh off his bones with red hot pincers. While these and such like 
barbarities are practising, the victors are so far from being touched with 
tenderness and compassion, that they 

(1. Though who can reproach the poor Indians for this, when Homer makes 
his celebrated hero, Achilles, drag the body of Hector at the tail of his 
chariot, for having fought gallantly in defence of his country. Nor was 
Alexander the Great, with all his famed generosity, less inhuman to the 
brave Tyrians, two thousand of whom he ordered to be crucified in cold 
blood, for no other fault but for having defended their city most 
courageously against him, during a siege of seven months. And what was 
still more brutal, he dragged alive--at the tail of his chariot, through 
all the streets, for defending the town with so much vigour.)

Page 59

dance and sing round these wretched mortals, showing all the marks of 
pleasure and jollity. And if such cruelties happen to be executed in their 
towns, they employ their children in tormenting the prisoners, in order to 
extinguish in them betimes all sentiments of humanity. In the mean time, 
while these poor wretches are under the anguish of all this inhuman 
treatment, they disdain so much as to groan, sigh, or show the least sign 
of dismay or concern, so much as in their looks; on the contrary, they 
make it a point of honour all the time to soften their features, and look 
as pleased as if they were in the actual enjoyment of some delight; and if 
they never sang before in their lives, they will be sure to be melodious 
on this sad and dismal occasion. So prodigious a degree of passive valour 
in the Indians is the more to be wondered at, because in all articles of 
danger they are apt to behave like cowards. And what is still more 
surprising, the very women discover, on such occasions, as great fortitude 
and contempt, both of pain and death, as the gallantest of their men can 
do.

   21st. The apprehensions we had of losing the horses in these copse 
woods were too well founded, nor were the precautions we used yesterday of 
driving them up sufficient to prevent their straying away afterwards, not-
withstanding they were securely hobbled. We therefore ordered the men out 
early this morning to look diligently for them, but it was late before any 
could be found. It seems they had straggled in quest of forage, and, 
besides all that, the bushes grew thick enough to conceal them from being 
seen at the smallest distance. One of the people was so bewildered in 
search of his horse, that he lost himself, being no great forester. 
However, because we were willing to save time, we left two of our most 
expert woodsmen behind to beat all the adjacent woods in quest of him.

   In the mean while the surveyors proceeded vigorously on their business, 
but were so perplexed with thickets at their first setting off, that their 
progress was much retarded. They were no sooner over that difficulty, but 
they were obliged to encounter another. The rest of their day's work lay 
over very sharp hills, where the dry leaves were so slippery that there 
was hardly any hold for their feet. Such rubs as these prevented them from 
measuring more than four miles and two hundred and seventy poles. Upon the 
sides of these hills the soil was rich, though full of stones, and the 
trees reasonably large.

   The smoke continued still to veil the mountains from our sight, which 
made us long for rain, or a brisk gale of wind, to disperse it. Nor was 
the loss of this wild prospect all our concern, but we were apprehensive 
lest the woods should be burnt in the course of our line before us, or 
happen to take fire behind us, either of which would effectually have 
starved the horses, and made us all foot soldiers. But we were so happy, 
thank God! as to escape this misfortune in every part of our progress. We 
were exceedingly uneasy about our lost man, knowing he had taken no 
provision of any kind, nor was it much advantage towards his support, that 
he had taken his gun along with him, because he had rarely been guilty of 
putting any thing to death. He had unluckily wandered from the camp 
several miles, and after steering sundry unsuccessful courses, in order to 
return, either to us or to the line, was at length so tired he could go no 
farther. In this distress he sat himself down under a tree, to recruit his 
jaded spirit, and at the same time indulge a few melancholy reflections. 
Famine was the first phantom that appeared to him, and was the more 
frightful, because he fancied himself not quite bear enough to subsist 
long upon licking his paws. In the mean time the two persons we had sent 
after him hunted diligently great part of the day without coming upon his 
track. They fired their pieces towards every point of the compass, but 
could perceive no firing in return. However, advancing a 

Page 60

little farther, at last they made a lucky shot, that our straggler had the 
good fortune to hear, and he returning the salute, they soon found each 
other with no small satisfaction. But though they lighted on the man, they 
could by no means light on his horse, and therefore he was obliged to be a 
foot soldier all the rest of the journey. Our Indian shot a bear so 
prodigiously fat, that there was no way to kill him but by firing in at 
his ear. The fore part of the skull of that animal being guarded by a 
double bone, is hardly penetrable, and when it is very fat, a bullet aimed 
at his body is apt to lose its force, before it reaches the vitals. This 
animal is of the dog kind, and our Indians, as well as woodsmen, are as 
fond of its flesh as the Chinese can be of that of the common hound.

   22d. Early in the morning we sent back two men to make further search 
for the horse that was strayed away. We were unwilling the poor man should 
sustain such a damage as would eat out a large part of his pay, or that 
the public should be at the expense of reimbursing him for it. These 
foresters hunted all over the neighbouring woods, and took as much pains 
as if the horse had been their own property, but all their diligence was 
to no purpose. The surveyors, in the mean time, being fearful of leaving 
these men too far behind, advanced the line no farther than one mile and 
two hundred and thirty poles. As we rode along we found no less than three 
bears and a fat doe, that our Indian, who went out before us, had thrown 
in our course, and we were very glad to pick them up. About a mile from 
the camp we crossed Miry creek, so called because several of the horses 
were mired in its branches. About two hundred and thirty poles beyond 
that, the line intersected another river, that seemed to be a branch of 
the Irvin, to which we gave the name of the Mayo, in complement to the 
other of our surveyors. It was about fifty yards wide where we forded it, 
being just below a ledge of rocks, which reached across the river, and 
made a natural cascade. Our horses could hardly keep their feet over these 
slippery rocks, which gave some of their riders no small palpitation. This 
river forks about a quarter of a mile below the ford, and has some 
scattering canes growing near the mouth of it. We pitched our tent on the 
western banks of the Mayo, for the pleasure of being lulled to sleep by 
the cascade. Here our hunters had leisure to go out and try their 
fortunes, and returned loaded with spoil. They brought in no less than six 
bears, exceedingly fat, so that the frying pan had no rest all night. We 
had now the opportunity of trying the speed of this lumpish animal by a 
fair course it had with the nimblest of our surveyors. A cub of a year old 
will run very fast, because, being upon his growth, he is never encumbered 
with too much fat; but the old ones are more sluggish and unwieldy, 
especially when mast is plenty. Then their nimblest gait is only a heavy 
gallop, and their motion is still slower down hill, where they are obliged 
to sidle along very awkwardly, to keep their lights from rising up into 
their throat. These beasts always endeavour to avoid a man, except they 
are wounded, or happen to be engaged in the protection of their cubs. By 
the force of these instincts and that of self-preservation, they will now 
and then throw off all reverence for their Maker's image. For that reason, 
excess of hunger will provoke them to the same desperate attack, for the 
support of their being. A memorable instance of the last case is said to 
have happened not long ago in New England, where a bear assaulted a man 
just by his own door, and rearing himself upon his haunches, offered to 
take him lovingly into his hug. But the man's wife observing the danger 
her husband was in, had the courage to run behind the bear, and thrust her 
two thumbs into his eyes. This made Bruin quit the man, and turn short 
upon the woman to take his revenge, but she had the presence of mind to 
spring back with more than female agility, and so both their lives were 
preserved.