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The Rocks of Deer Creek - Pages 84-123
Page 84
THE FIELD OF DARTS.
One-half mile southeast of Rock Ridge, and two and one-half miles
northeast of the Rocks and bordering on the Mine Old Fields, is a valley
in which have been found numerous Indian arrow-heads or darts. The stone
of which they were made is unlike any that exists in that locality. Either
the material of which these points were manufactured was brought there for
that purpose, or it was the place of a great battle or battles fought by
contending savage forces. Possibly, those confederated nations, Oneidas,
Cayugas, Senecas, Mohawks, Onandagoes and Tuscaroras fought at that spot
the Delawares and Susquehannocks, also confederated tribes, and that that
contest was decisive of that long-continued struggle which reduced the
latter nations to the condition of women, which they were contemptuously
called after their subjection. No conjecture is at fault in considering
that eventful past in which almost every foot of territory occupied by
them was the place of battle between opposing Northmen and Southmen, and
no excess of imagination can paint in too vivid colors the horrors of the
struggle. To the Southmen the coming of the Northmen was as the coming of
Gog and Magog. All resistance was vain. Loups and Susquehannocks were as
helpless in the grasp of their foes, as effete Romans in the hands of
Goths and Vandals.
History is ever repeating itself. Three centuries later the territory
south, and bordering on the former, was the theatre of a contest between
civilized people almost unparalleled, in its violence, in
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the history of warfare, resulting as in the past in the triumph of the
warriors of the northern lakes and rivers, but as also in the past,
without loss of honor to the conquered. The weaker was overborne by the
stronger. Once more, if the prophet is indeed a seer, the mighty tribes of
the distant North will move down upon the strong ones of the South. Russ
and American in the valley of the Mississippi contending for the mastery,
the former finding that valley the place of graves. So shall close the
conflict of the world, and the earth shall keep jubilee a thousand years.
The voice of Gitche Manito, the mighty, will yet be potent to subdue man's
stubborn nature, and to allay his thirst for human blood. Happy would it
be for mankind if his counsels were now heeded:
"O, my children! my poor children!
Listen to the words of wisdom,
Listen to the words of warning
From the lips of the Great Spirit,
From the Master of life, who made you!
"I am weary of your quarrels,
Weary of your wars and bloodshed,
Weary of your prayers for vengeance,
Of your wranglings and disunion,
All your strength is in your union,
All your danger is in discord;
Therefore be at peace henceforward,
And as brothers live together."
Page 86
THE CHROME PITS.
Southwest of the Rocks, from one to three miles distant, are extensive
deposits of chrome. They have been worked for many years, chiefly by the
Messrs. Tyson, of Baltimore, enterprising merchants of that city. The
working has often been intermitted for considerable spaces of time, but
when the Baltimore and Delta Railroad shall have been completed, this
industry will doubtless be continuous, and also enlarged, and thus add
materially to the wealth of this section of the county of Harford. In
addition to chrome, there are in the neighborhood valuable deposits of
iron ore, magnesia, black lead, flint, asbestos and natural paint. The
development of all these sources of material prosperity is but a question
of time and of cheap transportation to market. The rock of Rock Ridge,
which is fire-proof and particularly adapted for furnace hearths, may of
itself become a considerable source of income. As an item of history
interesting to all, it may be noted that the fire-proof character of these
rocks was first discovered by Dr. Thomas Johnson, of the United States
Army, and brother of the late Mrs. Eliza A. Preston, of Deer Creek.
Page 87
THE SLATE QUARRIES.
The Slate Quarries of Harford County, Maryland, and York County,
Pennsylvania, are distant about eight miles northeast of the Rocks. They
are a source of prosperity to the section of country in which they are
situated, and promise, upon the completion of the Baltimore and Delta and
York and Peach Bottom Railroads, to develop its wealth indefinitely. The
slate is of superior quality, and held in high estimation wherever used.
The quarries employ many men and afford subsistence to many families. The
Welsh alone, who are chiefly employed, constitute a population of six or
seven hundred. The village of Bangor, upon the summit of the Ridge, is
composed principally of this nationality. It has several stores and other
places of business. There are two churches, Welsh Congregational and
Calvinistic Methodist. One of these has a settled pastor, the Rev. Mr.
Hughes, and in both the Welsh language is exclusively used in religious
services. These churches have given a desirable moral tone to the
community, though, like all other Christian communities, the good find in
the natural antagonism of the human heart a constant incentive to holy
work. The village of Delta, at the foot of the Ridge, is composed chiefly
of a native population. It has many places of business, but no church. In
the immediate vicinity of the two villages are Slate Ridge, Slateville and
Mt. Nebo churches, the first under the pastoral care of the Rev. Joseph D.
Smith, a gentleman loved by his congregation, and held in high esteem by
the
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people generally, irrespective of creed or profession; the second by the
Rev. Mr. Davenport, a gentleman of deserved popularity among all classes;
the last is under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Litsinger, of the Methodist
Protestant Church, a Christian minister of enlarged and liberal views,
whose praise is in all the churches.
The representative business men at the Quarries of the Welsh population
are Faulk Jones, William E. Williams, John Humphreys and Hugh C. Roberts,
Esqrs., John Parry & Co., Richard Reese & Co., Wm. C. Robertson & Co.,
John W. Jones & Co., Richard Hughes & Co., Robert L. Jones & Co., and
Humphrey Lloyd, Esq. These gentlemen came to America in their youth, and
by industry and skill have accumulated property; and occupying prominent
and influential positions in the community, have given proof that industry
and integrity are roads to success.
The first Welsh worker in the Quarries was a Mr. Davis; the first
successful worker a Mr. Parry. The latter leased from Major Williamson
thirty or thirty-five years ago, acquired a fortune, traveled into foreign
countries, and died at Jerusalem. His family is now living in Bangor,
Wales, on the interest of the money made at Bangor, United States of
America. He is represented to have been a man of great integrity, a proof
of which is, that after his return to Wales he called together his
creditors, and paid the whole amount of his indebtedness to them, with
interest.
The Quarries constitute a part of the group of interesting objects that
render the locality of the Rocks of Deer Creek one of great attraction, and
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the visitor to the Rocks will do well to visit them. The Quarries have a
promising future. Delta's magnificent distances will be of the past, and
Bangor's sombre residences will be substituted by more pretentious
edifices. The whole ridge will be alive with busy and enterprising
workers, bringing from the bowels of the earth the material that shall
shield its purchasers from sun, and rain, and snow, and make fortunes for
the sellers.
THE HORSE EPIDEMIC AND THE GUINEAMAN'S PONY.
More than one hundred years ago, during the lifetime of Benjamin Rigdon,
grandfather of the late George W. S. Rigdon, an epidemic among horses,
very destructive in its character, prevailed throughout all this section
of country. Tradition tells us that the Durhams, ancestors of the present
families of that name, who were wealthy, owning large tracts of land and
many horses, lost two hundred of them by the scourge; that the only horse
that escaped the plague was a pony owned by an aged Guinea-man belonging
to the first Mr. Rigdon. This old negro lived in a small cabin on the top
of Rock Ridge, a short distance above the present residence of Richard
Mayes, Esq., and not distant from the Rocks of Deer Creek. Whether the
preservation
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of the life of the pony was owing to the healthfulness of the spot, or its
isolated position, is not known; most likely to the latter, as the disease
was, doubtless, contagious. Though not another representative of the
equine race was left, the fortunate pony ate sprightlily of the slight
herbage that grew on the open places of Rock Ridge summit, or of the corn
grown by his thrifty master on the plain below. Looking down on the vast
reaches of country on either side of the noted ridge, which towers in
mountain height above the valleys, if he could not say, with Alexander
Selkirk (Robinson Crusoe), on the island of Juan Fernandez,
"I am monarch of all I survey,
My right there is none to dispute,"
he could say, "I am the sole owner of a horse in all these broad domains;"
and the proud pony, joining his master in the refrain, could utter,
"No pent-up Utica contracts our powers,
The whole boundless continent is ours."
Theirs it was not as against superior man, who rules the beasts of the
field, but as against the beasts themselves, every one of which, save the
pony, had succumbed to the power of the fell destroyer. The invulnerable
pony was alone in all his glory. The value of such a pony could not be
estimated.
The Guinea-man was a character. We write only of his religion. In that he
was Fetish. He bore constantly about his person a feitico, the Portuguese
name for an amulet--a talisman. To this gru grus, the name of the charm in
his native language, he attached much importance, as it shielded
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his family and all living things belonging to it--dog or cat or pony--from
disease, and made all safe from the machinations of their enemies. We are
not to infer from his possession of the feitico, and the power he ascribed
to it, that he had no idea of a Supreme Spirit, a King of Heaven, or that
he did not worship Him. Worship of the Highest is universal. So thought
Pope:
"Father of all in every age,
In every clime adored,
By saint, by savage, and by sage,
Jehovah, Jove, or Lord."
The Guinea-man could not but recognize Him who
"Warms in the sun, refreshes in the breeze,
Glows in the stars, blossoms in the trees,
Lives through all life, extends through all extent,
Spreads undivided, operates unspent."
Fetishism is not a primitive religion. It is a corruption of religion, and
even enlightened Christians may well be fearful of the feitico, for the
tendency to idolatry is universal. Solomon built altars for Chemosh and
Moloch. The possession of the feitico by the Guinea-man of Rock Ridge
rendered him very obnoxious to his fellow-servants. They were afraid of
him. "He possesses a charm," said they; "he can kill us if he will. He is
a wizard, a conjurer; his old woman is a witch; they deal with spirits."
No one of them would have touched that mountain, for to touch it was
death, they thought. If they could have taken his life by poison, the
usual mode of their race, they would not have done so; for does not the
power of the feitico survive after its possessor has gone hence, and may
not his spirit
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come in the silent hours of the night to avenge his wrongs? This
apprehension was his castle. A cabin without wall, or moat, or drawbridge,
was stronger than a feudal castle. It was defended by superstition.
That pony should have been skinned at its death, his cuticle stuffed and
preserved, and labeled, "The sole survivor."
THE CHURCH OF THE ROCKS.
"A CITY set on a hill" cannot be hid, nor can a church in such a position.
This is eminently true of the house of worship now in the occupancy of the
religious denomination known as the Evangelical Association. Situated on
the summit of a lofty eminence directly opposite the Rocks, having them in
full view, and overlooking the romantic and picturesque valley of La
Grange, it looks upon a scene of alternate and mingled beauty and grandeur
not often seen. This view has a peculiar psychological effect upon the
intelligent and appreciative beholder. It intuitively demonstrates (I hope
my language is philosophical) the former existence of a Rock Ridge Lake.
That mighty basin, scooped out of the mighty hills which surround it, and
the violent breaks of the Ridge, where the waters of Deer Creek rush
through it, are physical proofs of
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its past existence, that, like axioms in mathematics, are self-evident.
Years previous to the building of the church, religious services were held
on the summit of the Rocks. Prompted by curiosity, if by no worthier
motive, there gathered once on that high eminence a congregation of men,
women and children to hear the preacher of righteousness, who, we may well
conjecture, was, with his audience, inspired by the scenes around them. In
the selection of this spot for the exercise of his vocation, he but
imitated the example of One greater than himself. "And seeing the
multitudes, He went up into a mountain, and when He was set, His disciples
came unto Him; and He opened His mouth and taught them."
More than a century previously there was a gathering of the chiefs of the
Indians whose habitations were not distant from the Rocks, to listen to a
sermon by a Swedish minister. The lessons were those which are now given
to such as sit under the ministry of the Word. The clergyman spoke to them
of the principal historical facts of Christianity--such as the fall of
Adam by eating an apple, the coming of Christ to repair the evil, His
labors, sufferings and miracles. When he had finished, one of the chiefs,
thanking him for the discourse, related one of the mythical traditions of
his people, which he deemed to be of like credibility, and equally binding
upon the faith of all, and thus proved the inefficacy of the lessons
taught him by the Christian teacher. Now, the lessons taught in the Church
of the Rocks are doubtless believed, and, we would fain hope, practiced.
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MIKE'S ROCK.
A Few miles northeast of the Rocks of Deer Creek, and on Rock Ridge, is a
large rock known by the name of the title of this article. By the side of
it is a large tree, the branches of which overhang it. An unfortunate,
wearied with the perplexities of life, perhaps its agonies, closed here
that life, if not precisely in the manner expressed in the following lines
of an atheist, found among his papers after his death, yet in one of the
modes common to the sad who lack fortitude:
"An hour more;
Sixty minutes, and the light
Of this, we mis-call life, goes out forever.
Forever? Aye; beyond the grave is found
No life, save that great primal force, which here
Displays itself alike in growth of weed
Or human soul. Why longer live and suffer,
When the finger upon this slender
Bar of steel will end, with one sharp flash,
The hurry and the heart-ache?
--"Death's messenger,
From out this glittering tube, I call, to bid
Me sleep; and in that sleep I dread no dreams,
And no to-morrow. Salve, rex terrorum!
Moriturus te saluto."
A rash act, which was followed by a surprise. Death terminates this, not
that; and that is eternal.
Page 95
THE ANCIENT MILL AND THE HONEST MILLER.
Half-way between the Indian Cupboard, the retreat of Alexius, the noted
fisherman and trapper, and the Otter Rock, above which was the habitation
of Waiter the Hermit, is an ancient mill. The first mill was of logs, and
owned by an Englishman named Sankey. He was probably a Yorkshireman, as
tradition informs us that the boys of that day amused themselves with his,
to them, singular brogue. The mill, in the course of time, passed to
Underwood, Harry, Morton, and J. Bond Preston, in the order named. This
mill has furnished for many years bread for man and "stuff" for beast. One
possessed of good descriptive powers and of a poetical genius might make
the mill and its picturesque surroundings furnish material for an article
that would not discount the reputation of Scribner or Harper, or any other
leading magazine. Such description is not sought. Attention is directed to
it rather because it is one of the ancient landmarks or watermarks of its
neighborhood, and is a connecting link between the distant past and the
immediate present. It derives also some notoriety from the snake story of
the ancient trapper, a snake rivaling the sea serpent that has been so
often seen on our Atlantic coast--from New England to Key West--the
habitation of which was on the wooded hill opposite it.
In this ancient mill was once upon a time, as tradition tells us, an
honest miller. To me, all millers are honest; but unhappily for the
reputation
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of the craft, suspicious people, or people who, like the Heathen Chinee,
as Bret Harte tells us, themselves familiar with the ways that are dark,
are sometimes oblivious of the saying:
"Who steals my purse steals trash,
But he who filches from me my good name
Takes that which does not himself enrich,
And makes me poor indeed."
The honest miller was Thomas Wright, remembered by the few ancient people
who have survived him. The story of the mysterious pig is both a proof and
illustration of the integrity of the miller. Once on a time he left Sam's
Creek, Carroll county, Md., early on the morning of a summer day, for the
mill on Deer Creek. He baa walked but a short distance when he heard the
squealing of a diminutive pig that was following in his tracks. To escape
the animal that was intent upon accompanying him on his journey, he left
the road, walking through fields and forests. But in vain. The pig was
equal to the emergency, its instincts pointing out the way of the miller
unerringly. The integrity of the miller consisted in this, that he made
every possible exertion to escape from that pig, showing that if there has
ever been in this Christian country a miller who fattened his pigs on
other people's corn, he was not that miller. The sad thing about the story
of the pig is, that the honest miller, being of superstitious turn of
mind, interpreted its singular following as an omen of his death. His
death did occur a short time thereafter.
The wheels of the ancient mill yet turn--not the wheels used when the
honest miller was occupant,
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but turbine wheels. The old mill is doomed. The coming narrow-gauge,
insuring facility of transit to and from our large commercial city, will
make it a potent reason why men of capital should utilize the great and
continuous water-power for manufactories on a larger scale.
The unceasing flow of the waters of Deer Creek symbolizes the onward flow
of humanity uninterrupted by successive generations. Humanity lives and
the waters flow on, and such may be for a billion of years to come. But
within the hearing of the music of no onflowing stream will there be, if
my informant has uttered truth, a more honest miller than Thomas Wright.
"An honest man is the noblest work of God."
"At the window, looking upon a crystal stream,
There sat a little lady, indulging in a dream,
A dream of fairy visions comes up before her eyes,
As she gazes now intently upon the azure skies.
"A soft breeze fans the valley, the sun rests on the hill,
he water murmurs sweetly as it rushes past 'the mill;'
The earth seems glad of springtime, unfolding every hour
From Nature's store, the tender bud that holds the fragrant flower.
"The lady sits a-dreaming, with head buried in her hand,
And visions come a-trooping from off a fairy-land,
And in her dreamy fancies there is a potent spell
That acts like charm of music, the smiling lips now tell.
"The heart cons o'er its treasures glowing in rosy light,
The spirit basks in beauty like stars that gem the night,
And thus the little lady dreamed happy hours away,
So happy in her musings she fain would have them stay."
The little lady whose musings form a proper sequel to the story of the
ancient mill and its
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occupant, cherishes now, and it will ever be so, the highest admiration
and esteem for the honest miller.
THE OLDEST INHABITANT.
The oldest inhabitant now living in the vicinity of the Rocks of Deer
Creek is Mrs. Rebecca Smith. She was born within three-fourths of a mile
of her present residence. Here, within sight of the Rocks, she has lived
to be almost a centenarian, being now in the ninety-sixth year of her age,
surviving all who commenced with her the journey of life. Of a cheerful
disposition and vigorous constitution, she has borne the burdens of life
with comparative ease; and in a serene old age, comforted by loving
hearts, she is awaiting resignedly the final summons.
Retaining unimpaired her mental faculties, which were always strong, she
is able to entertain the curious of a later generation with most
interesting descriptions of the habits, customs and manners of her early
cotemporaries, distinctly recollecting and graphically relating
innumerable incidents of the far past. In her youth this portion of the
country was comparatively a wilderness. Without attractive and comfortable
residences, as now; no convenient and well supervised roads, paths
usually; no churches, preaching in private houses; the schoolhouse a rude
cabin of logs, without any floor but
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nature's, the chimney built of sticks, unplaned seats, without backs.
Carriages there were none, the ordinary mode of travel being on horseback.
The whole progress for ninety-six years, from the rude past to the present
more advanced civilization, has been witnessed by her. But whatever
contrasts she makes between the past and the present, they are without
invidiousness. All along she has accepted the conditions of life, and the
circumstances attending it, as they were more or less favorable, without
murmur or complaint, recognizing the fact that the Most High appoints the
bounds of our habitations, and that all things promote the happiness of
the submissive.
It was her great felicity to be united in marriage, at a comparatively
early age, with a gentleman of superior intellectual and social qualities,
a conscientious Christian, a faithful friend, and a considerate and loving
husband and father. The name of Amos Smith is to this day in this
community a synonym of all that is excellent in character--it is as
precious ointment poured forth. The memories of his unobtrusive acts of
kindness are treasured, and his example valued as a rich legacy to those
who have followed him.
The venerable matron, the oldest inhabitant of the neighborhood of the
Rocks of Deer Creek, now leaning upon her staff, and bending toward that
house of the earth that is the decreed abode of all, suggests, in the
remarkable vigor of her physical being, and in the sprightliness of her
intellectual life, lessons of wisdom that the young everywhere may with
profit learn. An active life and a cheerful mind were the great treasures
she possessed--
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more valuable than gold or silver, or the jewels that blaze in the
coronets of queens.
THE YOUNGEST INHABITANTS.
The youngest inhabitant in the neighborhood of the Rocks is William Cecil
Gladden, infant son of our well-known fellow-citizen, William Gladden, Esq.
Of the immediate vicinity of the Rocks, the youngest inhabitants are
Bessie and Jessie, twin daughters of Joseph Wetherill, Esq., proprietor of
the store at that place. Born under the very shadows of the Rocks, and by
the side of Deer Creek, in view of the plunging waters of its romantic
fall--all that remains of the once majestic cataract of Rock Ridge Lake--
they are passing their confiding and unsuspecting life happy in the
present and without care for the future. These children and William Cecil
Gladden are cousins. May life be to the three all that fond parents and
loving friends can wish. To each we dedicate the prayer of the gifted
Willis;
"Light to thy paths, bright creature! I would charm
Thy being if I could, that it should be
Ever as now thou dreamest, and flow on,
Thus innocent and beautiful, to heaven."
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THE ORIGINAL INHABITANTS.
The original inhabitants were the Susquehannock Indians. Their territory
extended from the Susquehanna River westward as far as the Allegany
Mountains. This nation had a close alliance with the Leu Lenapes or
Delawares, who occupied the country from the head of the Chesapeake Bay to
the Kittatinny Mountains northward, and as far eastward as the Connecticut
River. This confederacy carried on a long war with the Indians who lived
to the north of them, between the Kittatinny Mountains and Lake Ontario,
who called themselves Mingoes, and were called by the English the Five
Nations. At the time of the settlement of Jamestown, Virginia, this war
was raging with great fury. In one of Captain Smith's excursions up the
Chesapeake, at the mouth of the Susquehanna, in 1608, he met with five or
six canoes full of warriors who were coming to attack their enemies in the
rear. Having made peace with the Adirondacks, through the intercession of
the French, who were then settling Canada, they turned their arms against
the Lenapi and their confederates, and subduing them, reduced them to
almost the condition of slaves. Peace was granted them on condition that
they should put themselves under the protection of the Mingoes, confine
themselves to raising corn, hunting for the subsistence of their families,
and no longer have the power of making war. This is what the Indians call
making them women. In this condition the Lenapes and their confederates
were when the settlement of Pennsylvania was
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begun. What is said by Stith of the language and dress of the
Susquehannocks, may deserve to be here inserted: "Their language and
attire were very suitable to their stature and appearance; for their
language sounded deep and solemn, and hollow, like a voice in a vault.
Their attire was the skins of bears and wolves, so cut that the man's head
went through the neck, and the ears of the bear were fastened on his
shoulders, while the nose and teeth hung dangling upon his breast. Behind
was another bear's face split, with a paw hanging at the nose. And their
sleeves coming down to their elbows, were the necks of bears, with their
arms going through the mouth and paws hanging to the nose. One of them had
the head of a wolf hanging to a chain for a jewel, and his tobacco pipe
was three-quarters of a yard long, carved with a bird, a deer and other
devices at the great end. His arrows were three-quarters of a yard long,
headed with splinters of a white, crystal-like stone in the form of a
heart, an inch broad and an inch and a half long. These he carried at his
back in a wolf's skin for a quiver, with his bow in one hand and a club in
the other." Such was the appearance of the first inhabitants of Deer Creek
and the Rocks. The Mingoes came, saw, conquered, and, occupying the
country as masters, ruled for a time. They, in turn, were overborne by a
superior race, and we have only the recollections of the deeds of the bold
warriors.
Page 103
THE MASSACRE OF THE MINGOES.
The Mingoes of Deer Creek, as a body, left this locality in the year 1752.
A few of them remained until, as is plausibly conjectured, the winter of
1763, and left immediately after the extermination of their kindred who
had been living on Conestogoe Creek, Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. These
Indians were the remains of a tribe long settled at that place, and thence
called Conestogoes. Upon the arrival of the English in Pennsylvania this
tribe sent messengers to welcome them, with presents of venison, corn and
skins, and the whole tribe entered into a treaty of friendship with the
first proprietary, William Penn--a treaty which was to last as long as the
sun should shine, or the waters run in the rivers. This treaty was often
renewed--the chain brightened, as the Conestogoes expressed it--from time
to time. This tribe was ultimately reduced to twenty persons--seven men,
five women and eight children, when by one of the most cowardly and
dastardly acts on record in all the protracted and bloody contests with
the Indians, this handful of peaceable people were murdered in cold blood
by fifty-seven Conestogoe gentlemen (?). On Wednesday, the 14th day of
December, 1763, these cavaliers, mounted on good horses, and armed with
fire-locks, hangers and hatchets, entered Conestogoe Manor, and
surrounding the defenceless village, fired upon, stabbed and hatcheted to
death three men, two women and a boy. Shehaes, an old man who assisted at
the second treaty held with them by Penn in 1701, was among the slain. All
were Scalped, and their huts
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burned. The remaining Mingoes, absent at the time of the massacre--they
were out among their white neighbors selling baskets, brooms and bowls--
were taken into protection by the humane magistrates of Lancaster, and
secured from harm, as they thought, in the work-house of that town. Fifty
of the chivalry, whose names are worthy to be inscribed on the temple of
dishonor as high up as the summits of the Rocks of Deer Creek, suddenly
appeared before that town on the 27th of December, invested the work-
house, and by gradual approaches, doubtless, assaulted, captured and put
to death all that were left of the Mingoes--men, women and children,
fourteen in all. The remains of the murdered victims were dragged into the
street and exposed to view. The fifty patriots of the Simon Girty stamp
then mounted their horses, huzzaed in triumph, and rode off,
congratulating themselves on their victory.
"Ah! where are the soldiers that fought here of yore,
The sod is upon them, they'll struggle no more,
The hatchet is fallen, the red man is low;
But near him reposes the arm of the foe.
"The bugle is silent; the war whoop is dead;
There is a murmur of waters and woods in their stead,
And the raven and owl chant a symphony drear
From the dark waving pines o'er the combatants' bier.
"Sleep, soldiers of merit! sleep gallants of yore!
The hatchet is fallen, the struggle is o'er,
While the fir-tree is green and the wind rolls a wave,
The tear-drop shall brighten the turf of the brave?"
The Mingoes of Deer Creek, hearing of the massacre of their people, and
fearing that their lives would not be secure even among the humane white
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inhabitants of their neighborhood, left to join their people in the West
or South. Their fears were groundless. We have never heard that gentlemen
of Maryland ever deported themselves toward defenceless women and innocent
children as those Bayard-like representatives of the men of England who
wore the red rose.
The Mingoes occasionally visited their former homes, but that for a few
years only. In 1764, a year after their removal, a party visited a
locality in the neighborhood of New Park, York County, Pennsylvania, ten
miles distant from the Rocks. There was a wigwam still standing at that
date on the farm now owned by Duncan Brown, Esq., then possessed by his
paternal grandfather. They were seen walking around it, and seemingly
viewing it with a curious interest. To Deer Creek and the Rocks a final
adieu came. The descendants of the former occupants know of these
localities only as the homes of their ancestors--the places where the
bear, the wolf and the beaver were many, and where the eagle built her
nest upon the High Rocks, beneath which their chiefs sat by their council
fires.
ROCKS LITERATURE.
I Am not perfectly satisfied with the designation I have given to the
communications in prose and poetry which I have selected for this place in
this
Page 106
book. Rocks Literature is not poetical; and the title is justified only by
the fact that these contributions have been inspired by the sublimities
and beauties of that wonder of nature, the Rocks of Deer Creek, with their
romantic contiguities and surroundings. Could I have said "The Curiosties
of Literature," the name given by Disraeli the elder to that confessedly
most curious collection of literary gems which bears that title, I should
assuredly be content, assuming, of course, that my collection would bear
some proper relation in their literary qualities to that unique gathering
of rare intellectualities. No other title could I use, because the
literature I collect bears relation to but one thing--the Rocks of Deer
Creek and their surroundings. And I am shut up to the necessity of using
the material I have, material not created by myself, save one short essay,
but by others, and for the quality of which I am in no degree responsible.
I am not to be understood, however, as disparaging the efforts of the
writers in prose and in poetry whose contributions I shall insert in this
book. I have no doubt that many of the readers of them will derive both
pleasure and profit in their perusal.
I make these contributions a part of this volume, because they are a part
of the history, so to speak, of the Rocks, and because they show that the
Rocks are potent in inspiration.
The literature of the Rocks is abundant--sufficient, perhaps, to make a
volume respectable in size. It is in accordance with my plan to limit my
collection to a few selections. The first was written some years ago by a
girl of tender years, and was, perhaps, her first effort in such writing.
Page 107
The Rocks of Deer Creek.
"Nature, in her delineations, ever delights in giving variety to the
beauty and magnificence of her creations. Mountain, hill, valley and plain
have each their enchantments, but the Rocks of Deer Creek, situated in the
upper section of Harford County, present to the lover of natural scenery a
combination of attractions that nature, in her munificence, seldom deigns
to lavish on her fair domains. The Rocks are several hundred feet in
height, extending to a point that projects in solemn grandeur over huge
masses of rock that lie scattered at their base." Having described the
beauty of the adjacent landscape, she continues: "But the Rocks, apart
from the lovely landscape that spreads around us, are ever the scene that
must enchant the gaze, and infuse into the heart of nature's votary a
mingled feeling of admiration and awe." She concludes: "The image of the
scene is impressed upon the soul, and in the secret chamber of our being
often will we view over again the Rocks of Deer Creek."
The next selection is a poem, written by a young lady of Long Island, New
York. We give only the stanzas which describe the "King and Queen Seats:"
"In ages past, so runs a legend old,
These rocks were the wild home of warriors bold;
Here they in council met, and warfare planned,
Talked o'er the mighty secrets of their dusky band;
I fancy how the echoes have rung out,
The noisy clamor of their war-cry shout.
Long years have passed away, the red man's tread
Page 108
No longer echoes there; the wild, fierce tribe is dead,
And nought remains but memories alone,
And two rough seats hewn from the solid stone.
"These were the lofty thrones of King and Queen,
Spread now with moss and trailing vines of green;
We rested in their depths, and pictured rare
Visions of Indian beauties, wild yet fair;
All still and silent now, only the breeze
Comes whispering soft sweet stories through the trees,
And echoes only waken to the words
Of untold beauty in the songs of birds,
Those clearest, bell-like tones that float and ring,
Pronounce the mocking bird the woodland king."
The following was written by a lady, a native of, and now resident in,
Harford:
Rocks of Deer Creek, I, a pilgrim,
Wander up thy mountain side,
And beneath thy lofty summits
Watch the sparkling waters glide.
Here upon this pile of ages,
Where the Red Man's flight was stayed,
I, in contemplation solemn,
View the mighty work displayed.
Think of Him who, out of chaos,
Called this great mysterious world,
With its mountains, vales and waters,
Like a picture fair unfurl'd.
Piled this mighty, rocky structure,
Like some castle, grim and gray,
Sublime--mysterious--wrote upon it,
A monument without decay.
List! methinks I hear "the voices
Of the hills" that round me lie,
For one grand and solemn anthem
Seemeth filling earth and sky.
And self is lost--forgotten e'en--
As I list the soft refrain;
Surely God, the builder of you,
Reigns upon this height supreme.
Page 109
Misty clouds are upward rising,
Like pure incense, to the sky,
Peace-offerings from the waters
On this rock-bound mountain high.
Surely in this solemn grandeur,
On this temple most sublime,
More ancient than the pyramids
Of old, in eastern clime,
Man must see and feel a power,
Great--beyond our mortal ken;--
Rocks of Deer Creek, veil'd in mystery,
You must ever more remain.
Mary Warner Ross.
Sandy Hook, 1879.
That which follows are the meditations of one who discovers, in the
vicinity of the Rocks, a sin-gular fern. He is evidently in a
philosophical mood, and has been disturbed, it may be, by the rash
speculations of some modern scientists so-called.
A Remarkable Fern.
Strolling one day of the past autumn along Deer Creek, in the vicinity of
the Rocks, I was attracted by a species of fern with which I was not
familiar. Upon examining it minutely, I found, to my surprise, and I must
confess to my gratification, written upon the stem and each leaf of the
fern the word Biogenesis: life from life, and from nothing but life. And
recollecting that Sir William Thompson, President of the British
Association for the Advancement of Science, in an address to the Society,
incidentally refers to the theory of Biogenesis and its opposite theory,
Abiogenesis (spontaneous
Page 110
generation), I sought that address, and found the following statement
therein:
"I am ready to adopt as an article of scientific faith, true through all
space and through all time, that life proceeds from life, and from nothing
but life." I am not aware that Sir William had ever seen a specimen of the
singular Deer Creek fern, or ever heard of it; but one cannot fail to note
the agreement between the teaching of the fern and that of the
distinguished President of the British Association. Anxious to know what
that other distinguished member of the same Association, Professor Huxley,
might have to say upon Biogenesis and its antagonistic theory,
Abiogenesis, I turned to an inaugural address delivered by him to the
British Association, in which Professor Huxley concedes that "the
evidence, direct and indirect, in favor of Biogenesis: life from life, and
from nothing but life, for all known forms of life, must be admitted to be
of great weight." This utterance of the great inductive philosopher gave
me great pleasure, as it seems to confirm the suspicion that possibly the
Creator of all things wrote upon my fern the word Biogenesis: life from
life, and from nothing but life. My satisfaction with this declaration of
the philosopher would have been complete, had he not to this just
admission, as I thought it to be, added: "But though I cannot express this
conviction of mine too strongly, I must carefully guard myself against the
supposition that I intend to suggest that no such thing as Abiogenesis
(spontaneous generation) has ever taken place in the past, or will take
place in the future. If it were given me to look beyond the abyss of
geologically recorded time to
Page 111
the still more remote period when the earth was passing through physical
and chemical conditions, which it can no more see again than a man can
recall his infancy, I should expect to be a witness of the evolution of
living protoplasm from unliving matter." I was now in a quandary. When
doctors disagree, who shall decide? And what estimate can I have of the
veracity of my fern? Singularly, the philosopher whose just quoted
utterance had tended to overthrow my cherished theory of life, and brand
as false the teaching of the fern, comes to my relief. The philosopher
does not account for life without a metaphysical cause. Hear him: "I,
individually, am no materialist, but, on the contrary, believe materialism
to involve grave philosophical error." His materialism is only a trick of
logic; his faith is that all life has a transcendental, metaphysical
cause. He vindicates the truthfulness of my fern.
The question is, where did my fern get its life? Who wrote upon its stem
and leaves Biogenesis? My fern was sustained by inorganic substances. From
such substances it extracted the nutriment of its life by a chemistry
peculiar to itself. But whence its life? It cannot be that life is a
phenomenon, evolved from the forces of unliving matter. Science does not
say so. Matter is a basis of life; in it life manifests itself, and
nothing more. Life, like matter in which it dwells, was created, not
evolved from unliving forces. The life of my fern came from abroad. Its
cause was the only cause, ultimate, spontaneous will. The Author of all
life gave it life, and wrote upon its leaves Biogenesis.
My fern is perishing. Is this not singular? Strange that the living forces
which built it up
Page 112
should now, that its vitality is gone, tear down the structure which they,
with so much pains, constructed. The vital principle in my fern did for a
time hold in abeyance the physical forces, but this having departed, its
enemies triumph. My fern is returning to unliving dust. Whether it,
Phoenix-like, will arise from its ashes, I do not know. And if its
unliving dust should become the basis of other life, whether it will be
the life of another fern, I do not know. Of this I am confident, if it
shall be the basis of another life, upon that creation, be it rose or
magnolia or fern, will be written Biogenesis: life from life, and from
nothing but life.
If any of my curious friends would see a specimen of the Deer Creek fern,
they can do so by searching the hills between Preston's Mill and the Rocks
of Deer Creek.
The Old Mill.
Opposite Mingo Hill, on the waters of Deer Creek, a few miles above the
Rocks, is a quaint old mill. Of this ancient mill a poetess writes:
"Softly dim twilight lingers
O'er the picturesque mill,
Night, with her purple fingers,
Is draping each noble hill
With the shadows she loves to muster,
And waft in the twilight down,
Faintly outlined with the lustre
Which streams from his starry crown.
Beautiful shadows that fall so still
And nestle down on the silent mill.
"Silent, for now the throbbing
Heart of the mill's at rest,
And only the breezes are sobbing
O'er the water's breast;
Page 113
Its ripples' musical splashing
Seem crowning a dreamy song,
As o'er the high dam dashing,
They hurry so swiftly along.
Laughing waters that scorn to feel
The ponderous weight of the old mill wheel.
"We sit in the night's dark splendor
And list to the whippoorwill,
Breathing in accents tender
Its moan o'er the night-wrapped mill,
And watch how the shadows linger
O'er the tree-topped hill on high,
Till each waving branch seems a finger
Writing against the sky.
And the spirit of night has awakened
The fairies that surely dwell,
In the quiet depths of the woodland
In some fair little hidden dell;
For the fire-flies twinkle their lights afar
Till each fairy lamp seems a tiny star.
"Brightly the summer dawning
Gleams o'er the quiet mill,
And scattered far by the morning
The shadows lift from the hill;
And the sunbeam's golden splendor
Pours o'er the dewy earth,
While the birdlings' voices tender
Thrill with sweetest mirth.
A morning concert given us free
Echoing sweet the softest melody.
"How lightly the water dances,
How sparkles its crystal breast,
As each arrow of sunlight glances
In quivering, gay unrest,
And the dewy morning breathing
Tenderly touching now,
Silvery hair enwreathing
An aged though cheerful brow.
For many years that are gone and dead,
The mill has echoed his gentle tread.
Page 114
"And long may it echo the paces
of the feet that are walking toward
The golden gates of the city
Leading to home and God.
Respected friend, I will carry
Sweet memories as I roam
Of the picturesque mill in the valley,
And the sweetly embowered home.
With sad regrets my song will fill,
And a fond farewell to the dear old mill."
"Jamaica, Long Island."
What immediately follows are the prophetic declarations of the resident of
"Shirley, near the Rocks," who may be indebted, in a measure, to the
scenes amid which he dwells for the strength of his patriotic inspirations
and impulse. The Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Wales and
Switzerland, have ever been inhabited by peoples of patriotic sentiments
and practically devoted to liberty. The dwellers by the Rocks are not an
exception. The Eagle, which is the symbol of their country's majesty,
soars above the summits of their mountains. They watch its lofty flights
with pride, and aspire to equal eminence in their sentiments and
aspirations. The lowlands are generally the places of wealth, and luxury,
and enervation, with which the sentiments of personal independence and
individual liberty do not usually co-exist.
The prophecy is a portion of a Centennial Address,
Page 115
delivered by the author, July 4th, 1876, in Ward's Woods, not distant
from, and in view of, the Rocks, and is a legacy to the young men who
shall be living in 1976; bequeathed to them with the hope that they will
cherish an ardent love of country, and maintain the principles of their
fathers.
Page 116
A PROPHECY.
The retrospect we have made very naturally suggests the prospect. What
shall the future of our country be? Who shall forecast its destiny? Have
we, by the marvelous rapidity of our growth in the hundred years past,
exhausted our energies, and brought upon ourselves premature old age,
premonitory of speedy death? Or, are we as Hercules in his cradle,
possessed of a vitality and force and fertility of resources that shall be
manifested in achievements that will surpass all that has been seen in the
past of our history, and surprised the world with their greatness. We are
in the infancy of our greatness, the beginning of a progress such as has
not hitherto been seen, and of which the most sanguine could not possibly
have dreamed. Mankind is standing on the very threshold of a new life, on
a boundary line, about to launch out into an unknown future. The past is
gone, the old landmarks are swept away, and fresh armies of thoughts,
opinions and knowledge are breaking in upon the world. The jungle has been
cleared, space has been almost annihilated, and the human mind, free from
embarrassments that have interrupted its progress, is entering upon a
series of essays and conflicts that shall ultimate in achievements far
surpassing those of the past, and that shall carry humanity upward to
higher planes rapidly and majestically. It may be centuries before the new
life shall be matured. In the very "lisping
Page 117
infancy" of the new life humanity may be, but the child is born, and there
shall follow the vigor of manhood and the ripeness of age. A sagacious
thinker and observer has said: "A mighty impulse has come over the world
lately. A time of looking forward rather than back has set in. Great
inventions of all kinds are altering the face of the earth, making the
conditions of life different, and raising the hopes and fears of men.
Great discoveries are bringing with them all the eager wildness, all the
enthusiasm for good or evil, that such unsettlements must always bring.
The vast ocean of knowledge has found its Columbuses, and hearts beat high
with the daily hope of fresh wonders being unveiled by new voyagers."
Where, we ask, has this impulse been felt stronger than on this continent
and with us? Where so much of change, of adventure, of achievement? Where
in all the earth so much of enthusiasm, of earnest purpose, of
determination to do all that lies within the range of possibility? There
are barriers that no human invention can overcome; conditions beyond the
range of mortal power. But within those great barriers which God has fixed
to human progress, an almost infinite advance is certain. There are men of
folly, as was Canute the Great, when he sat by the sea-shore, and said to
the advancing waters, "So far shalt thou come, and no farther," who in the
impotency of their reason may prescribe bounds to human progress, but that
progress, as did the oncoming waves, will mock their folly and weakness.
This continent, this nation, shall participate in this general onward
movement, and in a degree exceeding all. The genius of the American people,
Page 118
their inquisitiveness, their steadiness of purpose, their inflexibility of
will, their inventive qualities, their love of Change, their ambition to
excel, all point to a destiny of unparalleled grandeur. Our lofty
mountains, our wide extended plains, our majestic rivers, are symbolic of
the might and majesty of our coming greatness. Here, upon the shores of
the Atlantic, on the banks of the Mississippi and the Missouri, and by the
side of the Pacific, in mountain place and valley, shall be a teeming
multitude of men building up in their strength a material, intellectual,
social, spiritual empire, before which all other empires shall pale as the
glow-worm pales in the presence of the sun. It will be the onward movement
of thought, and feeling, and faith, and work, widening and deepening, and
increasing in strength, until mighty in its volume and resistless in its
force, it shall bear upon its bosom, as the flood bears the oak, all the
treasures of wisdom and knowledge. This is my thought--it may be the dream
of an enthusiast.
In one hundred years the population of the United States of America may
exceed that of China; the area of territory, if extended, may embrace the
whole of North America, and our progress in all other respects be
commensurate. Then it will be that those then living will look back upon
the epoch of the first Centennial as we, who celebrate it to-day, look
back upon its beginning--as a day of very small things, and, as we do,
congratulate themselves and the country on the progress made, differing
from us in this, that their felicitations will be greater--proportionate
to their increased prosperity. The realization of this hope will depend
essentially upon
Page 119
one thing--that we remain at peace among ourselves. This unity of the
nation is the pledge of its perpetuity, and the assurance of its high
destiny. Not, indeed, that unity which is enforced by strength of will and
power of bayonet, but unity of sentiment and affection, that unity of mind
and heart which has its most striking illustrations and exemplifications
in the virtuous household, each member of which, recognizing the
significancy of the relation, performs its obligations. The hope is that
Christianity, in its onward march, will so leaven society with its
restraining and conserving influences, that human passions will not simply
be held in check, but will be consecrated to virtuous purposes, the human
heart responding always and unerringly to truth, and the life to noble aim.
Our fathers sought to erect the superstructure of American government upon
a substantial basis, intending that in this ark of national safety their
descendants should be secure when the tempests gathered. The fabric of
government which they erected was no temporary expedient, to serve the
wants of a day; it was built, as the pyramids were built, to resist the
wear of ages, and serve the necessities of generations. Washington, and
Adams, and Jefferson, and Madison, and Monroe, and all the illustrious
host of worthies who laid the foundations of American nationality, were
men not only of wisdom, but of conscience also, having in view, not the
mere gratification of personal ambition and the aggrandizement of self,
but the welfare of the whole people and of generations of people. To
establish this government our ancestors toiled, and sacrificed, and poured
out their blood, not anticipating
Page 120
that Catalines would ever be found among their descendants, who would
conspire against the liberties of the people, but hoping and believing
that they to whom had been bequeathed the precious legacy of American
freedom, would cherish it as vestal virgins and priests of Inca cherished
their sacred fires. The gift has so far been generally appreciated, and
the men of this generation are bearing upon their shoulders the ark which
contains the sacred things placed therein by the fathers of the republic.
They cherish it as the ark of the Lord was cherished in the house of Obed
Edom.
It is not within the power of man to foretell the time when this nation,
having performed its allotted part in the great drama of the world's life,
shall follow the peoples that have preceded it, and pass in mournful
procession to the graves of dead nationalities. The race that forms this
nation has, as we have seen, been distinguished above all other races for
its vitality and force, resisting thus far that strong tendency to decay
that characterized the nations that preceded it. It may follow in the
footsteps of the nations that have gone before; but if true to itself, if
it fulfills the destiny which the Divine hand has marked out for it, then
when its cycle shall have been completed and the record made up, future
races will look back upon its period as the brightest in human history.
And that record, the brightest spot in human history, may be the roll of a
thousand years.
Yea, if the period of the existence of the great nations of antiquity was
ten centuries, ten times ten centuries may be the cycle of American
history, the time when its record shall be made up. The sentiment
Page 121
of patriotism existing in such intense force in the bosom of every true
American would place no limit to his country's life. To-day, moved thereto
by the enthusiasm kindled by our recollections of the past and our faith
in the greatness of our country's future, we all with one accord exclaim,
Our country; may she live forever!
My fellow-citizens, we congratulate ourselves that we have lived to
celebrate the Centennial. In honoring this day we do justice to the memory
of our fathers who bequeathed to us our heritage--to their intelligence,
their virtue, their bravery, their fortitude, their spirit of self-
sacrifice. They have gone to their graves, and the worthiest monuments
that we can erect to perpetuate their memories are the appreciation of
their virtues and the imitation of their examples.
Fellow-citizens, we shall not live to celebrate another Centennial. Ere
the coming century of our national existence shall have closed we will
have passed away--been gathered to our fathers; but we shall leave a
heritage worthy to be preserved by our posterity, and by them transmitted
to the generations following.
Page 122
MASON AND DIXON'S LINE.
A few miles north of the Rocks of Deer Creek, in latitude 39 degrees, 43
minutes, 26 /103 seconds, is the boundary between the States of
Pennsylvania and Maryland. This line was begun in December, 1763, and
concluded in the end of the year 1767. Its whole length is 244 miles, not
all of which was laid out by the scientific gentlemen after whom it is
called. They were prevented by fears of hostile Indians from proceeding
further than Sideling Hill, a distance of 116 miles from the place of
beginning. At the termination of every fifth mile is planted a large
stone, having on one side the coat of arms of William Penn, and on the
other or southern side, the Escutcheon of Lord Baltimore, the
proprietaries respectively of the provinces of Maryland and Pennsylvania.
Every mile is a smaller stone with the letter P on one side and M on the
other. All these stones were brought from England. This line was fixed
after eighty years of constant discussion, and thus was lost to Maryland
much fertile territory. It was not surveyed in the ordinary mode, but
established by mathematical and astronomical calculation. A survey was had
in 1844, and the original line was found to be substantially correct.
Page 123
A LITERARY CURIOSITY.
In the year 1661, the Rev. John Eliot, "the Apostle to the Indians,"
translated the Virginian Bible into the language of the New England
Indians. The following specimen exhibits the Lord's Prayer (Matt. vi: 9--
13):
9. Yowutche yeu nuppenantamook: Nooshun kesukqut quttianatamunach
knowesuonk.
10. Peaumooutch kukketassootamdonk, kuttenautamoouk nennach ohkeit neane
kesukqut.
11. Nummeetsuonqash asekesukokish assamaiinean yeuyea kesuked.
12. Kah ahquontamaiinean nummatchseonqash, neane matcheneukgueagig
nutahquontamounnanog.
13. Ahque sagkompagunaiinnean en qutchhuaonganit, webepohquohwussinean
wutch matchitut. Newutche kutahtaun ketassootamoonk, kah menuhkesuonk, kah
sohsumoonk micheme. Amen.
The Rocks of Deer Creek - End of Pages 84-123
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