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The Beginnings of San Francisco - Notes 1-15
NOTE 1. SAN CARLOS BORROMEO
Some years ago, on proper representation being made to the government, the
war department issued the following:
"GENERAL ORDER No. 142.
"War Department, Washington, August 29, 1904.
"The following order is published to the Army for the information and
guidance of all concerned.
"War Department, Washington, August 25, 1904:
"By the direction of the President, the cantonment on the military
reservation at Monterey, Cal. named Ord Barracks by War Department order
of July 10, 1903, will hereafter be known as the Presidio of Monterey, in
perpetuation of the name of the first Spanish military station in
California.
WILLIAM H. TAFT,
Secretary of War."
The presidio and mission of San Carlos Borromeo were formally established
by Portola June 3, 1770, the religious ceremony being conducted by
Junipero Serra, president of the California missions. In 1771 or 1772 the
mission was moved from its original site near the presidio to the Rio del
Carmelo, about one league distant. In 1777 Monterey was made the capital
of the Californias--Alta and Baja California being united under one
governor--and with the exception of a few years when the seat of
government was at Los Angeles it remained the capital of Alta California
until the American occupation.
Count Carlos Borromeo, for whom the presidio and mission were named, was
an Italian nobleman, son of the Count of Arona and nephew of Pope Pius IV.
He was born in Arona October 2, 1538. At the age of twenty two he was
created cardinal and soon after made archbishop of Milan. He devoted much
time to reforming abuses which had grown up in the church and to the
establishment of seminaries, colleges, and communities for the education
of candidates for holy orders. To the people he was ever the friend and
counselor. His life was spent in their service; in succoring the sick; in
relieving distress whenever and wherever he found it. His heart, his hand,
and his purse were always open. In 1576 when Milan was visited by the
plague, he went about giving directions for accommodating the sick and
burying the dead, avoiding no danger and sparing no expense. He visited
all the neighboring parishes where the contagion raged, distributing
money, providing accommodations for the sick, and punishing those,
especially the clergy, who were remiss in discharging their duties. Moving
calmly amid the panic stricken people "he was brave where all others were
cowards, full of compassion where pity had been crushed out of all other
breasts by the instinct of self preservation gone mad with terror;
cheering all, praying with all, helping all with hand, brain, and purse;
at a time when parents forsook their children, the friend deserted the
friend, and the brother turned away from the sister while her pleadings
were still wailing in his ears." {Mark Twain: The Innocents Abroad.
Autograph Ed. 231-2.}
The reforms instituted by Borromeo were fiercely opposed by the civil
authorities and by several religious orders. The governor and many of the
senators addressed remonstrances to the courts of Rome and Madrid, and a
conspiracy, which failed, was formed against his life. His manifold labors
and austerities appear, however, to have shortened his life. He was seized
with an intermittent fever, and died at Milan on the 4th of November 1584.
He was canonized in 1610, and his day is November 4th. Contrary to his
last wishes a memorial was erected to him in Milan cathedral, as well as a
statue seventy feet high on the hill above Arona.
NOTE 2. PUNTA DE LOS REYES
"The Kings of Tarshish and of the Isles shall bring presents, the Kings of
Sheba and Seba shall offer gifts" {Ps. lxxii, 10}. The Three Kings of
Cologne: Kaspar, Melchior, and Balthasar--the three wise men of the East--
are honored at the feast of the Epiphany as the first of the pagans to
whom the birth of the Messiah was announced.
On the 16th of November 1542, Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, a Portuguese "very
conversant with matters of the sea," in command of the San Salvador (flag
ship) and La Victoria, vessels sent by the viceroy, Don Antonio de
Mendoza, to explore the northern coasts of New Spain, found himself upon a
large gulf that looked like a harbor and after beating about this gulf all
that day and night and the day following without finding any river or
shelter, cast his anchor in forty fathoms in order to take possession of
the land. They called the great gulf La Bahia de los Pinos, and Professor
George Davidson has identified it as the Gulf of the Farallones. So far as
I know, they gave no name to the cape that marks its northern point. The
next visitor of whom we have record was Francis Drake who anchored in the
little bay under Punta de los Reyes June 17, 1579. He gave the point no
name although the bay bears his. Next came Sebastian Rodrigues Cermeno,
whose ship, the San Agustin, was lost here in 1595. It remained for
Sebastian Vizcaino, to whom we are indebted for so many beautiful names,
to honor the Three Kings of Cologne by naming for them the Punta de los
Reyes.
"The Capitana (Flag-ship, San Diego) and Fragata (Tres Reyes) had no
sooner left the harbor of Monterey (January 3, 1603) to seek for the Cabo
de Mendocino, than they had a formidable wind which lasted to the sixth of
January, the day of Los Santos Reyes, and carried them beyond the Puerto
de San Francisco (Drake's bay), and the day after that of Los Reyes, which
was the 7th of January, the wind suddenly shifted to the northwest and
blew somewhat fiercely but they were able to make some headway; and the
Fragata concluding there was no necessity to seek a harbor from this wind,
continued her voyage, but Vizcaino returned with the Capitana to the
Puerto de San Francisco to await the return of the Fragata * * * and learn
if anything was to be found of the ship San Agustin which came upon the
coast in 1595, * * * and was wrecked and driven on shore by a contrary
wind. * * *
"The Capitana came to anchor behind a point of land which makes this port,
and which he (Vizcaino) called La Punta de los Reyes." {Venegas: Noticia
de la California.}
NOTE 3. ORTEGA
Jose Francisco Ortega, the discover of the bay of San Francisco, was born
in the city of Celayo, in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1734. He
enlisted in the company of the royal presidio of Loreto (Lower
California), October 1, 1755; was made a corporal August 3, 1756, and a
sergeant February 8, 1757. On the 14th of August 1773, Ortega was made a
lieutenant and assigned to the command of San Diego. During this year
Junipero Serra, who had quarreled with Captain Fages, the comandante of
California, made a trip to the city of Mexico to induce the viceroy,
Bucareli, to recall Fages, and he wished him to appoint Ortega to the
command, saying that the senores of the regular army were unfitted by
education and training for the peculiar duties required of a commander of
a frontier department "not being versed in the service of the soldados de
cuera, totally different from that of the other troops." Bucareli agreed
to recall Fages, realizing that to obtain the best results from the
reduction of California there must be harmony between the military and
religious branches of the government. He demurred however, to the
appointment of Ortega, urging want of rank, but probably not wishing to
have a comandante too much under the influence of the venerable priest.
Junipero said that the objection regarding Ortega's want of rank was
easily overcome, but Bucareli settled the matter by appointing Captain
Fernando Rivera y Moncada, the commander of the presidio of Loreto, and
Ortega was given his lieutenancy and sent to San Diego. While Ortega was
in command at San Diego there occurred the first serious trouble with the
Indians of California. On the night of November 4-5, 1775, without
warning, a body of eight or ten hundred savages attacked the mission,
burned the church and other buildings, and killed one of the priests, a
carpenter, and a blacksmith. The mission guard finally beat them off but
not until all the soldiers were badly wounded. Ortega was absent at the
time, having gone with about one half of his force to establish the
mission of San Juan Capistrano. Being notified by messenger of the
disaster, he at once returned and took active measures to repress the
revolt.
In 1781 Ortega founded the presidio of Santa Barbara where he served as
comandante until 1784. In 1782 he founded the mission of San Buenaventura.
From 1784 to 1787 he served on the frontier in various excursions and
explorations, and in September 1787 was assigned to the command of
Monterey. Here he served until 1791 when he was transferred to Loreto
where he succeeded Captain Arrillaga, later governor of California, and in
1795 was retired as brevet captain and attached to the Santa Barbara
presidio. He died February 3, 1798, and was buried in the Santa Barbara
mission.
The blood of this interesting pioneer of California flows in the veins of
many prominent families of the state, as the De la Guerra, Bandini,
Wilcox, More, Vallejo, Carrillo, Castro, and others will testify. His sons
became ranchero princes and his granddaughters wives of governors. His
wife was Maria Antonia Victoria Carrillo, who outlived him, dying May 8,
1803.
NOTE 4. SAN BUENAVENTURA
San Buenaventura (Giovanni de Fidenza) was born in Bagnorea, Italy, in
1221; died in Lyons, France, July 15, 1274. He became general of the
Franciscans in 1256 and was canonized in 1482. He was greatly beloved and
received the title of doctor serafico. When the settlement of California
was decided on, it was ordered that a mission should be established at San
Diego bay, one at Monterey bay, and one to be known as San Buenaventura,
in honor of the doctor serafico, at a point to be selected between the
two. The mission was founded by Junipero Serra March 31, 1782, in presence
of the governor, Don Felipe de Neve, the troops being under command of
Lieutenant Don Jose Francisco de Ortega. A thriving town of thirty-five
hundred inhabitants is the result of that establishment. The postal
authorities some years ago changed the name to Ventura.
NOTE 5. DON PEDRO FAGES
Don Pedro Fages, first comandante and fourth governor of California, was
born in Catalonia, Spain, and came to Mexico in 1767 with the First
battalion, Second regiment, Catalonia Volunteers, in which he held the
rank of lieutenant. In the autumn of 1768 he joined the California
expedition by order of Galvez, being appointed jefe de las armas to the
expedition, and with twenty-five of his men, sailed for San Diego bay on
the ill-fated San Carlos. While still weak and sick from the scurvy he
joined Portola on his march to Monterey; and also accompanied him on his
second expedition in 1770, which founded the presidio and mission of
Monterey, when he was appointed by Portola comandante of California. In
November 1770, he made a brief exploring trip to the bay of San Francisco,
going perhaps as far as San Leandro creek on the Alameda coast, while his
men pushed on to Carquines strait. He was made a captain May 4, 1771, and
in 1772 he explored the eastern and southern coasts of San Francisco, San
Pablo, and Suisun bays, and the San Joaquin river. He gave the name of Rio
de San Francisco to the waters now known as the straits of Carquines,
Suisun bay, and San Joaquin river. In 1773 Junipero Serra, with whom he
had quarreled, procured his recall and he was ordered to join his
battalion at Real de Minas de Pachuca, Mexico. He turned over his command
to Rivera March 24, 1774, and sailed with his Catalans for Mexico; the
places of the infantrymen being filled with soldados de cuera brought by
Rivera.
In a subsequent letter to the viceroy Serra expresses regret for the
removal of Fages, commendation for his services, and a desire that he be
favored by the government.
Fages made two trips to the Rio Colorado in 1781-2 to punish the Yumas for
the massacre and destruction of the Colorado missions, and on July 12,
1782, was appointed governor of California, having previously been made a
lieutenant-colonel, and reached the capital, Monterey, the following
November. In 1789 he was made a colonel. He was retired at his own request
April 16, 1791, and died in Mexico in 1796. His wife was Dona Eulalia
Calis, whom he married in Catalonia. One child, Maria del Carmen, was born
in San Francisco August 3, 1784.
Don Pedro Fages was a pioneer of pioneers, a brave soldier, and undaunted
explorer and a gallant and picturesque figure of early California. He is
described in his latter days as a tall, stout man of generous, open
disposition, very fond of children, who used to search his pockets for the
cakes and confections (dulces) with which he used to fill them for their
delight.
NOTE 6. THE SAN CARLOS Alias EL TOISON DE ORO (GOLDEN FLEECE)
As the first ship to enter the port of San Francisco the packet San Carlos
is entitled to notice here. We are told that the two paquebots, San Carlos
and San Antonio, were built in 1768 at the newly constructed dock yards of
San Blas, by order of the Most Illustrious Senor Don Jose de Galvez,
visitador-general of New Spain, for the contemplated expedition to San
Diego and Monterey. Costanso, engineer and officer of the regular army,
who accompanied the expedition, says that in all the coasts of New Spain
the only maritime forces that could be used to oppose foreign invasion
were these two packets and two other vessels of smaller tonnage which
served the Jesuit missionaries of Baja California in their communications
with the coasts of Sonora and New Galicia. The two packets made their
maiden voyages in March 1768, sailing from San Blas with troops for
Guaymas. Returning to San Blas they were ordered to La Paz, Lower
California, to take on a portion of the California expedition and stores
for the new foundations. The San Carlos reached La Paz December 15th,
leaking badly from the rough handling of the seas. Under the forceful
supervision of the senor visitador she was careened, her gaping seams
closed, and on January 10th sailed, under command of Don Vicente Vila, for
San Diego bay, the rendezvous of the expedition. She carried Lieutenant
Fages and his company of infantry, Engineer Costanso, Surgeon Pratt, and
for the spiritual care of all, the very reverend Father Fray Fernando
Parron.
Owing to the constancy of the north and northwest winds which so greatly
opposed the navigation of the coasts of California, the San Carlos found
herself driven far out of her course, short of water, and obliged to put
into the island of Cedros for a fresh supply. At last on April 29th, she
reached San Diego in a most deplorable condition, all hands sick with
scurvy, of which two had died, and only four sailors able to keep the
deck. The San Antonio had arrived eighteen days before in much the same
condition, but seeing no signs of the other divisions of the expedition,
had made no attempt to land. Encouraged now by the presence of her consort
an exploring party was sent out to find water and preparations were made
to land the sick. Hospital tents were erected on the beach, protected by
palisades, the sick removed to them and all that could be was done for
them. No one was well and the labor of the few who remained on their feet
was very great and rapidly increased as their numbers lessened; while of
the sick several died every day, until of all who had sailed on the two
ships two-thirds were laid under the sands of Punta de los Muertos
(Deadmen's Point). The Indians, of whom there were many, were a miserable
lot, thievish and impudent, and altogether the colonists found themselves
in a most critical situation. Their medicines were gone and but very
little food was left when on May 14th, the first division of the land
expedition under Rivera arrived. Rivera was also short of provisions but
his men were all well and his arrival changed the aspect of the camp of
desolation. It was determined to send the San Antonio back for supplies;
all the available sailors were placed on her and she sailed for San Blas
June 8th with eight men for a crew. On June 29th the second land division
under Portola arrived with one hundred and sixty-three mules laden with
provisions. On July 14th Portola began his march to Monterey leaving his
sick under protection of a guard, and the San Carlos swinging at her
cables without a sailor to her deck.
The voyage of the San Carlos in 1775 for the survey of the bay of San
Francisco is told in chapter ii of the narrative.
On the 5th of June 1776, the San Carlos sailed from Monterey for San
Francisco under command of Don Fernando Quiros, lieutenant of man-of-war,
having on board a portion of the soldiers for the San Francisco presidio,
two cannon and other arms, and the supplies for the presidio and mission.
The distance was only eighty-five miles and she made it in seventy-three
days. Entering the port of San Francisco August 18th, Quiros at once
landed his men and the work of erecting the presidio buildings was pushed
with vigor.
In August 1779 the San Carlos, under command of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala,
sailed for Manila where Ayala was transferred to another ship and returned
to New Spain in 1781.
It is possible that the San Carlos was wrecked in the Philippines or she
may have been broken up, and another ship, larger and better equipped,
built to take her place, as a paquebot, San Carlos, was later engaged in
naval service on the northwestern coast of America. The fact that this San
Carlos was also called "El Filipino," while the alias of the original
packet was "El Toison de Oro," would seem to indicate that the San Carlos
of 1788-1797 was a ship built in the Philippines. In view of the record
here given of the different voyages of the original San Carlos, viz.: La
Paz to San Diego, 110 days; San Blas to Monterey, 101 days; Monterey to
San Francisco (1776) 73 days, it must be admitted that she was ill-fitted
for her work. She was small--of the caravel type--high poop and low waist--
and had three masts, two with square sails and one with mizzen as well as
a sprit sail on bowsprit. The packet San Carlos alias El Filipino was lost
in San Francisco bay March 31, 1797.
{Fray Zepherin Englehardt, in his book just out, Missions and Missionaries
of California, says that the San Carlos, a vessel built in the
Philippines, arrived thence, at San Diego, December 9, 1781, under command
of Juan Gonzales.}
NOTE 7. ARIZONA
Anza writing January 13, 1775, says: "This place (Arizona) is famous for
the balls of virgin silver found in 1736 which weighed up to one hundred
and fifty arrobas (3750 lbs.) The fact has been doubted but it is certain,
and many are living of those who possessed them and I can equally give
documents which accredit it; since my father, acting by advice of persons
learned in the law, attached them because it appeared to him they belonged
to his majesty, and while his action was not entirely approved by the
tribunal at the city of Mexico, it was by the royal council of Castile."
Arizona, or as it was sometimes written Arizonac was a real de minas,
(mining camp), in the Arizona mountains on the head waters of the Rio del
Altar just below the boundary line of Arizona, to which territory it gave
its name, about ten or twelve miles east of Nogales. The mines were called
Las Bolas de Plata--The Balls of Silver. The discovery of these wonderful
deposits created great excitement and brought a crowd of treasure seekers
into the district. Captain Juan Bautista de Anza, father of the explorer,
who was in command of the presidio of Fronteras and acted as judge and
recorder of the district, claimed that the deposits did not constitute a
mine proper but were hidden treasure or a criadero de plata--growing place
of silver--and as such were not subject to denouncement, but belonged to
the king. In this he was sustained by royal decree of May 28, 1741, but by
that time the deposits were about exhausted and the Apaches had driven the
miners out. The bolas, which were of almost pure silver, weighed from
twelve pounds to a ton and a half.
NOTE 8. EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO
Padre Jose Ortega of the Company of Jesus has given us in his Breve Elogio
del Padre Kino, a fairly comprehensive account of the life and adventures
of the famous explorer and missionary, Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino. In
addition to this we have the diary of Lieutenant Mange, his escort from
1694 to 1701.
Eusebio Kino or Kuhne was born in Trent in the Austrian Tyrol about 1640
and educated at Ala in Tyrol. Recovering from a serious illness through
the intercession of San Francisco Xavier, patron of the Indies, he adopted
that saint's name, incorporating it with his own, and declining the offer
of a professorship of mathematics in the college of Ingolstadt in Bavaria,
devoted his life to the conversion of the American Indians. He came to
Mexico in 1680 or 1681 and for thirty years labored among the Indians of
the Pimeria, the Papagueria, the Gila, and the Colorado. Commencing his
missionary work in Sonora in 1687, Kino established a number of missions
in Pimeria. In 1690 he made his first entrance into what is now Arizona,
and in 1694 followed down the Rio Altar to the Gulf of California. In
1694, Domingo Crusati, commanding in Sonora, appointed his nephew, Juan
Mateo Mange, a lieutenant in the compania volante of Sonora, a guard to
accompany the padre and write official reports of all his discoveries. In
November 1694, Kino reached the Gila and said mass in the Casa Grande. In
the autumn of 1698 Kino was requested by the viceroy to make a
reconnaissance of northern Pimeria and Papagueria with a view of
ascertaining if supplies could be sent from that quarter to Padre Juan
Maria Salvatierra then operating in the peninsula of Baja California. Kino
went to the Gila via San Javier del Bac, proceeded down the river some
distance and then struck off to the southwest towards the gulf. From the
Cerro Santa Clara (Gila range) he saw how the gulf ended at the
disemboguement of the Rio Colorado. From here he returned via the Camino
del Diablo, thence to Caborca. On the 7th of February 1699, Kino started
from the mission of Dolores on the western fork of the Sonora river and
traveled in a westerly direction to San Marcelo de Sonoita; thence by way
of the Camino del Diablo to the Gila, and returned via the Gila and Santa
Cruz rivers to his mission--virtually Anza's route of 1774 across the
Papagueria. In 1700 he started in September for the Gila via the Santa
Cruz valley, journeyed down the Gila to its confluence with the Colorado,
and returned over the Camino del Diablo to Sonoita, to San Luis de Bacapa,
San Eduardo, Caborca, Tabutama, and San Ignacio: Anza's route of 1775-6.
Kino's map, dated 1702, has often been republished, and Anza probably had
a copy of it. He refers to Kino, whom he called Quino, and also to the
diary of Lieutenant Mange, corrects their latitude and says he cannot find
the Sierra Azul and the Rio Amarillo mentioned by Mange. Kino made his
last journey over the Camino del Diablo to Las Tinajas Altas in November
1706, and climbing to the heights of the Cerro de Santa Clara gazed for
the last time upon the waters of the gulf and the continent of the
Californias, and then returned to his cell in the mission of Nuestra
Senora de los Dolores. The work of the great missionary was done, though
he continued to labor with tongue and pen until his death in 1710 or 1711,
at seventy years of age, twenty-four of which were in the Pimeria.
NOTE 9. LAS TINAJAS ALTAS
The second, third, and fourth tanks may be reached by climbing the steep
water-worn rocks on the left of the gorge, but the upper ones can only be
reached by ascending to a height of several hundred feet the steep ravine
on the right of the gorge and being lowered by ropes from above. The
United States and Mexican Boundary Survey commission of 1891-96
replenished the water in the lower tank by siphoning from those above by
means of a length of garden hose. Water can usually be found at all times
in some of these tanks as there is no loss from seepage, and as the steep
rock surrounds and overhangs the tanks and greatly retards evaporation, to
what extent is shown by the fact that on reconnaissance by the commission
from Yuma to Quitobaquita in the winter of 1893, these tanks were found
nearly half full, although the rainfall at Yuma for the preceding twelve
months had aggregated less than three-fourths of an inch, a remarkable
deficiency even for that dry section.
Yet even here the Camino del Diablo claimed its victims. Captain Gaillard
of the commission states that during the gold immigration of 1849 some of
the pilgrims reached the tanks to find the water all gone, and too weak to
go further, lay down and died; others reached the place in such a state of
exhaustion that, unless water was found in the lower tank they were too
feeble to climb to the next and perished miserably, their horrors
aggravated by the thought that the water, for want of which they were
dying, was but a few yards off had they but the strength to reach it.
Fifty graves near the foot of the tanks, marked by rough stones piled in
the form of a cross, testify to the numbers of these victims. {Gaillard:
Perils and Wonders of a True Desert.}
At the Tinajas Altas Anza tells us a wonderful story of the mountain sheep
and their horns. The Boundary commission notes the quantity of these horns
near the Tinajas Altas and the Cabaza Prieta and says: "Many years ago the
Papagos were accustomed to camp at these tinajas for the purpose of
hunting big horns or mountain sheep which then, as now, constituted the
principal inhabitants of these desolate sierras. In the vicinity of the
tanks are still seen the remains of their old camps, around which are
strewn the horns of the mountain sheep, as many as twenty or thirty pairs
having been counted at a single camp." The horns however were there for a
purpose, and Anza explains it to us, but in terms so extraordinary as to
be unintelligible to me until, after much investigation, I succeeded, with
the aid of Mr. F. W. Hodge of the Bureau of American Ethnology, in getting
light upon the matter. It appears that there was an ancient superstition
among the Pimas and Papagos that the horns of the mountain sheep exerted
an influence on the air and the rains. They never brought the horns home
but piled them in some place in the hills near the aguages where they held
in check the evil influences of the elements, and no one was permitted to
disturb or remove them.
NOTE 10. CAPTAIN FEO
The principal in the move to oppose the passage of the river by the
Spaniards was the chief of a tribe, kindred with the Yumas and subject to
them, to whom the Spaniards gave the name of Captain Feo on account of his
ugly (feo) looks. The men under Captain Feo's command were about as
numerous as those under Palma. He is described as a great preacher, with a
thick voice, given to long harangues, and was suspected also of being a
sorcerer. He set himself to count the Spaniards and seeing there were but
few of them told his people that it would not be difficult to kill them
and take their horses and property. Anza sent him warning that if he began
hostilities against the Spaniards they would bring sufficient force
against him to destroy him.
NOTE 11. THE ROYAL PASS OF SAN CARLOS
Desde esta sitio se comienza a atravesar la cordillera que forma la
Peninsula de la California. "From this place one must begin to cross the
cordillera that forms the peninsula of California," writes Anza December
19th, from the paraje of San Gregorio at the entrance to the Coyote canon.
I am sorry I cannot agree with the historians who have so well told the
story of this remarkable journey and take this expedition through the
Coahuila valley and over the San Gorgonio pass; but to do so I would have
to turn them in a different direction from that in which they said they
traveled and make them march eighty odd miles through the desert sands to
reach the San Gorgonio pass when they say they only traveled forty-eight
miles up a mountain trail to the pass of San Carlos. No one who reads
Anza's diary with a map of the country before him would say he went
through the San Gorgonio pass. The Cienega de San Sebastian is on or very
close to the 116th meridian and the eastern entrance to San Gorgonio is
about 116 degrees 40', and is therefore a little west of north, eighty
miles away, with but scanty water supply before reaching Palm spring,
sixty-five miles distant. Anza's record of direction and length of march
is explicit and Font's practically agrees with it. I give the two.
ANZA FONT
To Puenticitos W. by W.N.W. 3 1/2 W. 1/4 N.W. 4
" S. Gregorio " " 4 " " 5
" Vado de
S. Caterina W. N. W. 4 NW. 1/4 W. 4
" Fuente
S. Caterina N.W. & W.N.W. 1 1/2 " " 1
" Los Danzantes N.W. by W.N.W. 3 W. N. W. 4
" San Car1os pass W.N.W. & N.W. 2 1/2 W. N. W. 3
six jornadas 18 1/2 21
I would say that Anza was more accurate in his estimate of distances
traveled than Font and had, besides, been over this route twice before. He
gives the distance traveled from San Sebastian to San Carlos 18½ leagues--
say forty-eight miles. By turning into the mountains as he did he soon
reached water and grass. I have measured him up and have measured him down
on each of his journeys and have done the same with Pedro Font on his
journey. Anza writes on May 7th at San Sebastian (on his return trip;
present expedition), "At this place we left the canada in which we have
been traveling from San Carlos to here;" showing that between the pass of
San Carlos and the Cienega de San Sebastian he traveled through a canada
(valley or canon). Pedro Font writing from Fuente del Santa Caterina
(fourth jornada from San Sebastian) December 23d, says: "This stopping
place is in a canada which continues upward and through which the road
goes crossing the Sierra Madre de California."
I make this particular explanation because the mistake made by Bancroft
has been copied by other writers and the San Gorgonio pass is called the
"Historic Gateway to California."
NOTE 12. SOLDIERS OF THE EXPEDITION
As the soldiers of Anza's expedition were the founders and first settlers
of the city of San Francisco, it becomes a matter of historical importance
to know who and what they were. They left their imprint on the
civilization of California and their names are as familiar as household
words to all who know the country. The list is now given for the first
time and the particulars concerning the families were taken from the
Spanish archives of California, destroyed by the fire of 1906. In giving
the members of the families I only enumerate the children accompanying the
expedition. Many more were born in California.
1. Ensign Jose Joaquin Moraga was born in 1741; died in San Francisco and
was buried July 15, 1785, in the mission church whose corner stone he laid
in 1782. Moraga was an able assistant to Anza and received his commission
as lieutenant on the arrival of the expedition at San Gabriel. He
accompanied his commander on the survey of the peninsula and river of San
Francisco, and on Anza's departure for Mexico, took command of the
expedition. He founded the presidio and mission of San Francisco and was
the first commander, retaining the position until his death nine years
later. He founded the mission of Santa Clara in 1777, and in the same year
the pueblo of San Jose Guadalupe (San Jose). His record as an officer is
an honorable and stainless one. His wife was Maria del Pilar de Leon y
Barcelo. She did not accompany the expedition, being sick in Terrenate at
the time, but with her son Gabriel, joined her husband in San Francisco
February 20, 1791, the government paying the cost of transportation: three
hundred and eighty dollars and twenty-five cents. The only child of Moraga
I find any record of was his son Gabriel, born at the presidio of
Fronteras, Sonora, in 1765; buried in Santa Barbara, California, June 15,
1823; married, first, Ana Maria, daughter of Juan Francisco Bernal;
second, Joaquina, daughter of Francisco Javier Alvarado, and sister of Pio
Pico's wife. Don Gabriel enlisted in the San Francisco company December 1,
1783, and served for twenty-two years as private, corporal, and sergeant,
at the presidios of San Francisco and Monterey and in command of various
mission escoltas of those districts. On March 10, 1806, he received his
commission as alferez and was assigned to the San Francisco garrison. On
August 16, 1811, he was made brevet lieutenant for gallantry in a battle
with the Indians on the strait of Carquines, and on October 30, 1817, he
was made a full lieutenant and ordered to Santa Barbara. His hoja de
servicios of December 1820, shows thirty-seven years service and forty-six
expeditions against the Indians. He applied for retirement on account of
chronic rheumatism and other infirmities, and Governor Sola, Captain Jose
Dario Argüello, and other officers, as well as padres Senan and Payeras,
testified in terms of highest praise regarding his character and the value
of his services, but no attention was paid to his request. In 1806 Moraga
explored and named the San Joaquin river and he made a number of
expeditions to and beyond the Tulares. Don Gabriel is described as a tall,
well built man of dark complexion, brave, gentlemanly, and the foremost
soldier of his day in California. His son Joaquin, was grantee of Rancho
Laguna de los Palos Colorados in Contra Costa county, and a portion of
Moraga valley on said rancho is still in possession of his descendants.
Another son, Vicente, was grantee of Pauba in Riverside county.
2. Sergeant Juan Pablo Grijalva was born in La Valle de San Luis, Sonora,
in 1742; died in San Diego, California, June 21, 1806. He enlisted in the
presidial company of Terrenate, Sonora, January 1, 1763, and served twenty-
four years in the ranks before he received a commission--eleven of them at
the presidio of San Francisco. On the 20th of July 1787, he was
commissioned alferez and attached to the San Diego company. In 1796 he
applied for retirement on account of infirmities contracted during his
long services. Governor Borica endorsed his application, recommending that
he be retired with the rank of lieutenant as a reward for his services to
the king. He was retired as alferez with half pay--two hundred dollars a
year. The following November he was made lieutenant, his pension remaining
the same. Grijalva brought with him in the expedition his wife, Maria
Dolores Valencia, and three children: Maria Josefa, age nine; Maria del
Carmen, age four; and Claudio, a baby. Josefa married Sergeant Antonio
Yorba, who came with Portola in 1769 as sergeant of Catalan volunteers.
She became the mother of one of California's great families, grantees of
Santa Ana de Santiago, Las Bolsas, and Lomas de Santiago. Carmen married
Pedro Regalado Peralta, son of Gabriel. Of Claudio I know nothing. The
name of Grijalva died out in California.
3. Corporal Domingo Alviso lived but a short time after reaching San
Francisco. He was buried March 11, 1777, and the libro de difuntos gives
neither age nor place of birth. With him came his wife, Maria Angela
Trejo, and four children: Francisco Javier, age ten; Francisco, age nine;
Maria Loreta, age five; and Ignacio, age three. The family became a large
and influential one and were grantees of Natividad, Canada Verde y Arroyo
de la Purisima, Milpitas, Potrero de los Cerritos, El Quito, Canada de los
Vaqueros, and Rincon de los Esteros. The town of Alviso was named for
Ignacio.
4. Corporal Jose Valerio Mesa was born in 1734 in Opodepe, a mission on
the Horcasitas river a little above San Miguel in Sonora. His wife, Maria
Leonor Barboa, and six children, born at the presidio of Altar,
accompanied him to California. They were: Jose Joaquin, age twelve; Jose
Ignacio, age nine; Ignacio Dolores, age eight; Maria Manuela, age seven;
Jose Antonio, and Juan, age three. Valerio's grandson, Juan Prado, son of
Jose Antonio, became an ensign and comandante of San Francisco under
Vallejo. This family received the following grants: San Antonio (Santa
Clara county), Los Medanos, Rinconada del Arroyo de San Francisquito, and
Soulajule.
5. Corporal Gabriel Peralta was born at the presidio of Terrenate, in
Sonora, in 1731; died in Santa Clara, California, October 22, 1807. His
wife, Francisca Javier Valenzuela, and four children: Juan Jose, age
eighteen; Luis Maria, age seventeen; Pedro Regalado, age eleven; and Maria
Gertrudis, age nine, accompanied the expedition. Luis Maria enlisted in
the Monterey company December 2, 1781, and served in the ranks for forty-
five years. He was eight years a private, twelve years a corporal, and
twenty-five years a sergeant. He was a soldier, engaged in many
expeditions against the Indians, and was several times recommended for
promotion to the commission grade of alferez, but never received it. He
was retired invalido in 1826, and died in San Jose in 1851, aged ninety-
three.
On June 20, 1820, Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, governor of California,
granted to Sergeant Luis Peralta the San Antonio rancho, eleven square
leagues--48,825 acres, perhaps the most famous as well as the most
valuable of all the California grants. It includes the sites of the cities
of Oakland, Alameda, and Berkeley. The Rinconada de los Gatos, the Canada
del Corte Madera, and the San Ramon ranchos were also given to the
descendants of Corporal Peralta.
6. Juan Antonio Amezquita was born in Metape, Sonora, in 1739. He enlisted
at the presidio of Tubac July 9, 1764, and was retired invalido November
1, 1788. On October 1, 1786, he was transferred to Monterey where in 1813
he was living with his third wife, Maria Micaela Sotelo. Juan Antonio's
wife, Juana Maria de Guana, and five children: Manuel Domingo, age twenty-
three; Maria Josefa, age twenty; Maria Dolores, age ten; Maria Gertrudis,
age about three; and Maria de los Reyes, a babe, came with the expedition.
With this family was Rosalia Zamora, wife of the oldest son, Manuel
Domingo--who was also called Salvador Manuel and Manuel Francisco. Maria
Josefa became the wife of Ensign Hermenegildo Sal.
7. Jose Ramon Bojorques, born in the city of Sinaloa in 1737, brought with
him his wife, Francisca Romero, and three children: Maria Antonia, age
fifteen, wife of Jose Tiburcio Vasquez; Maria Micaela, age thirteen; and
Maria Gertrudis, age twelve. With the family was the husband of Maria
Micaela, Jose Anastacio Higuera.
8. Justo Roberto Altamirano was born in Aguage, Sonora, in 1745. He
brought with him his wife, Maria Loreta Delfin, and two sons: Jose Antonio
and Jose Matias. Matias died in 1783, and Jose Antonio in 1789. Justo
Roberto had a number of children born in San Francisco and Santa Clara,
but the name has died out in California.
9. Ignacio Linares was born in San Miguel de Horcasitas in 1745; died in
San Jose Guadalupe, California, June 5, 1805. His wife, Maria Gertrudis
Rivas, and four children: Maria Gertrudis, age seven; Juan Jose Ramon, age
five; Maria Juliana, age four; and Salvador, age one; came with the
expedition.
10. Carlos Gallegos brought his wife, Maria Josefa Espinosa, but no
children. I know nothing about him except that he was sent to the mission
of the Colorado and was killed by the Yumas in the rising of 1781.
The above ten constitute the veteran soldiers of the Sonora presidios who
volunteered to cast their lot in California. The recruits were:
11. Juan Salvio Pacheco lived but a short time in California. I do not
know the date or place of his birth. He died before July 21, 1777, but the
family he founded became a large one. He brought with him to California
his wife, Maria del Carmen del Valle, and five children: Miguel, age
twenty; Ignacio, age fifteen; Ignacia Gertrudis, age fifteen; Bartolome
Ignacio, age ten; and Maria Barbara, age ten. Juan Salvio's descendants
were grantees of Potrero de los Cerritos, Arroyo de las Nueces, Santa
Rita, San Jose Rancho, San Ramon, Monte del Diablo, and Positos ranchos.
The towns of Pacheco in Contra Costa and Pacheco in Mann counties are
named for this family.
12. Jose Antonio Garcia was born in Culiacan, Sonora, and died in Santa
Clara, California, January 25, 1778, the first death recorded (gente de
razon) on the books of that mission. His wife, Maria Josefa de Acuna, and
five children: Maria Graciana, Maria Josefa, Jose Vicente, Jose Francisco,
and Juan Guillermo, accompanied the expedition.
13. Pablo Pinto was born in the city of Sinaloa in 1732; buried in San
Francisco December 1, 1783. He brought with him his wife, Francisca Javier
Ruelas, and four children: Juan Maria, age seventeen; Juana Santos, Juana
Francisca, and Jose Marcelo. The husband of Juana Santos, Casimiro Varela,
accompanied the family. Another daughter of Pablo Pinto was with the
expedition--Teresa, wife of the poblador, Nicolas Galindo. The marriage of
Juana Francisca to Mariano Cordero, a soldier of the Monterey garrison,
November 28, 1776, is the first marriage recorded in the libro de
casamientos of San Francisco.
14. Antonio Quiterio Aceves was born in La Valle de San Bartolome,
Durango, in 1740. He brought with him his wife, Maria Feliciana Cortes,
and six children: Maria Petra, age thirteen; Jose Cipriano, age eleven;
Maria Gertrudis, age six; Juan Gregorio, age five; Pablo, age three; and
Jose Antonio, age two. Aceves was granted the Salinas rancho, four leagues
on the Salinas river, in 1795, one of the earliest grants.
15. Ignacio Maria Gutierrez, brought his wife, Ana Maria de Osuna, and
three children: Maria Petronia, age ten; Maria de Los Santos, age seven;
and Diego Pascual, born on the Gila, en route.
16. Ignacio de Soto, was born in the city of Sinaloa in 1749, and died in
Santa Clara, California, February 23, 1807. His wife, Maria Barbara
Espinosa de Lugo, was a sister of the soldier Francisco de Lugo, whose
daughter, Maria Antonia, became the mother of General Vallejo. She, with
two children: Maria Antonia, age two; and Jose Antonio, age one,
accompanied her husband. The first white child born in San Francisco was
Francisco Jose de los Dolores Soto, son of Ignacio and Barbara, born
August 10, 1776. The child was hastily baptized ab instantem mortem, but
he lived to become a great Indian fighter and died in 1835, a sargento
distinguido. I have a record of fourteen children born in California to
Ignacio and Barbara Lugo de Soto, and their descendants were grantees of
the following ranchos: Canada de la Segunda, El Piojo, San Matias, San
Lorenzo, Canada de la Carpinteria, Canada del Hambre, Capay, San Vicente,
Los Vallecitos, and Bolsa Nueva.
17. Jose Manuel Valencia was born in Guadalupe, Zacatecas, Mexico, in
1749, and died in Santa Clara, California, in 1788. His wife, Maria de la
Luz Munos, and three children accompanied him to California. The children
were: Maria Gertrudis, age fifteen years; Francisco Maria, age eight; and
Ignacio Maria, age three. His descendants were granted Alcanes rancho and
Canada de Pinole.
18. Luis Joaquin Alvarez was born in the city of Sinaloa in 1740. He
brought with him his wife, Maria Nicolosa Ortiz, and two children: Juan
Francisco and Maria Francisca.
19. Jose Antonio Sanchez was born in the city of Sinaloa in1751. He
brought his wife, Maria de los Dolores Morales, and two children: Maria
Josefa, age seven; and Jose Antonio, age two; also, Ignacio Cardenas, a
prohijado--adopted son. Sanchez was a man of some education and wrote a
beautiful hand. The family became prominent in San Francisco and Jose
Antonio, second, became ensign and comandante of San Francisco and famous
for his skill and courage as an Indian fighter. In 1827 he was permitted
to occupy the rancho nacional which was afterwards formally granted him.
This was the great Buri Buri rancho immediately south of the city and
county of San Francisco, comprising 15,793 acres, now belonging, in part,
to the Spring Valley Water Company. In 1836 Jose Antonio 2d was retired
with forty-five years' service to his credit. He passed the rest of his
life on his rancho and at the mission of Dolores. He appears on a padron
of San Francisco in 1842 as an hacendado (farmer). He was a brave and
honest man, and somewhat given to asserting his rights. He became involved
in a controversy with the priests over the question of tithes, which
Sanchez, following the example of Vallejo and other prominent landowners,
refused to pay. In consequence of this quarrel he was denied the comforts
of religion on his death bed and for a time, Christian burial. He died
June 22, 1843, and was finally given ecclesiastic interment in the
cemetery of the mission on July 5th. His son, Francisco, grandson of Anza'
s trooper, was comandante of San Francisco at the time of the conquest and
was the Captain Sanchez who captured Alcalde Bartlett and commanded the
Mexican forces at the battle of Santa Clara. Francisco was granted the San
Pablo rancho.
20. Manuel Ramirez Arellano was born in Puebla in 1742 and brought with
him his wife, Maria Agueda de Haro, and son, Jose Mariano. He was retired
in 1786 and removed to Los Angeles. He had three children born in Santa
Clara and three more born in Los Angeles. The family was quite prominent
in the south and the name became changed to Arellanes. Manuel Ramirez was
alcalde of Los Angeles in 1790, and his daughter, Maria Martina married
Don Ignacio Martinez, later comandante of San Francisco, and was the
mother of some of California's famous beauties. Don Teodoro Arellanes, son
of Manuel, born in Santa Clara, November 5, 1782, is mentioned by Davis,
Robinson, and other writers as a ranchero prince. The family obtained the
Guadalupe, El Rincon, and La Punta de la Laguna ranchos.
21. Joaquin Isidro de Castro was born in the city of Sinaloa in 1732. He
brought with him his wife, Maria Martina Botiller, and nine children:
Ignacio Clemente, age twenty; Maria Josefa, age eighteen; Maria
Encarnanacion, age twelve; Maria del Carmen, age ten; Jose Mariano, age 9;
Jose Joaquin, age six; Francisco Maria, age two; Francisco Antonio, and
Carlos. This was a very large family and became connected by marriage with
most of the prominent families of California. One granddaughter married
Governor Alvarado, and another married Carlos Antonio Carrillo and became
mother of five beautiful daughters, all of whom married Americans. One of
the earliest grants of land in California was made to Joaquin Isidro who,
together with his son-in-law, Mariano Soberanes, was granted Buena Vista
on the Salinas river in 1795. In 1801 Castro was given La Brea. His sons
and grandsons were given the following ranchos and islands: Aptos, Del
Refugio, El Sobrante, Laguna de Teche, Las Llagas, Las Paicines, Las
Animas, San Andres, San Gregorio, San Lorenzo, San Pablo, San Ramon,
Shoquel, Solis, Vega del Rio del Pajero, Isla de la Yegua (Mare Island),
and Isla de Yerba Buena. The Castros of Monterey and the Castros of San
Francisco call each other cousin. General Jose Castro belonged to the
Monterey family.
22. Felipe Santiago Tapia, born in Culiacan in 1745, brought his wife,
Juana Maria Filomena Hernandes (or Juana Maria Cardenas) and the following
children: Jose Bartolome, Juan Jose, Jose Cristoval, Jose Francisco, Jose
Victor, Maria Rosa, age fifteen; Maria Antonia, age thirteen; Maria
Manuela, age ten; and Maria Ysidora, age four. Jose Bartolome, who settled
at San Luis Obispo was grantee of Topanga Malibu rancho in 1804. His son,
Tiburcio, was granted Cucamonga rancho.
23. Juan Francisco Bernal, born in Rancho del Tule, in the district of
Sinaloa, in 1737, brought his wife, Maria Josefa de Soto, sister of
Ignacio, and seven children: Jose Joaquin, age thirteen; Juan Francisco,
age twelve; Jose Dionisio, age ten; Jose Apolonario, age nine; Ana Maria,
age five; Maria Teresa de Jesus, age three; and Tomas Januario. This
family received the following lands: Rincon de las Salinas y Potrero Viejo
(South San Francisco), Rincon de Ballena, Santa Teresa, Laguna de Palos
Colorados, Embarcadero de Santa Clara, El Alisal, and Canada de Pala.
Bernal Heights, San Francisco, is a part of Rincon de Salinas.
24. Juan Atanasio Vasquez, born in Agualulco, Sonora, in 1735, brought his
wife, Maria Gertrudis Castelo, and three children: Jose Tiburcio, age
twenty; Jose Antonio, age ten; and Pedro Jose. This family received Corral
de Tierra, Chamisal, and Soulajule ranchos.
25. Juan Agustin Valenzuela, born in Real de los Alamos, Sonora, in 1749,
brought his wife, Petra Ignacio de Ochoa, and one child: Maria Zepherin.
26. Santiago de la Cruz Pico was born in San Miguel de Horcasitas in 1733.
In 1777 he was transferred from San Francisco to the San Diego presidio
and founded a large family in the south. His sons all enlisted in the
presidial companies, as did the sons of the other soldiers, and one, Jose
Dolores, being transferred to Monterey, founded the northern branch of the
family. Santiago brought with him to California his wife, Maria Jacinta
Vastida, and seven children, all born in San Javier de Cabazan, on the Rio
Piastla, Sonora. The children were: Jose Dolores, age twelve; Jose Maria,
age eleven; Jose Miguel, age seven; Francisco Javier, age six; Patricio,
age five; Maria Antonia Tomasa, and Maria Josefa. Jose Maria, son of
Santiago, was the father of Pio Pico, the last Mexican governor of
California. Andres, another son of Jose Maria was, perhaps, the ablest
member of the family of Pico. He was in command of the Californians at the
battle of San Pascual and was present and took part in the engagements at
the San Gabriel river and La Mesa. As commander of the national forces in
California he signed the capitulation of Cahuenga, January 13, 1847, which
ended the war. He was member of the assembly in 1851; presidential
elector, 1852; land receiver and brigadier general of militia, 1858; and
state senator 1860-1. Antonio Maria, son of Dolores, was lieutenant of
militia, captain of defensores, member of constitutional convention,
presidential elector in 1860, and register of the land office at Los
Angeles in 1862. Another son of Dolores, Jose de Jesus, was captain of
defensores. He broke his parole and was captured and condemned to death,
but was pardoned by Fremont whom he assisted in bringing about the treaty
of Cahuenga. The descendants of Santiago de la Cruz Pico received the
following grants: Agua Caliente, Arroyo Seco, Bolsa de San Cayetano,
Piedra Blanca, El Pescadero, Jumal, La Habra, Los Flores, Moquelamo, El
Paso de Bartolo Viejo, Punto del Ano Nuevo, San Jose del Gracia de Simi,
Santa Margarita, Temecula, Valle de San Jose, and Casa Loma.
27. Jose Vicente Felix, was born in Real de los Alamos, Sonora, in 1741.
His wife, Manuela Pincuelar, was the woman who died in childbirth, the
first night out from Tubac. Seven children came with the expedition: Jose
Francisco, Jose Doroteo, Jose de Jesus, Jose Antonio Capistrano, Maria
Loreta, Maria Antonia, and Maria Manuela. Jose Vicente was transferred to
the San Diego company before 1782 and in 1802, or earlier, was given the
Felix rancho just north of the pueblo of Los Angeles--now within the city
bounds.
28. Sebastian Antonio Lopez brought his wife Felipa Neri (or Felipa
Xermana) and three children: Sebastian, Maria Tomasa, and Maria Justa. I
have no information about this family.
29. Jose Antonio Sotelo died in San Francisco January 20, 1777, the second
death recorded in the libro de difuntos. The name of his wife is given by
Pedro Font as Gertrudis Peralta, but the above register has it Manuela
Gertrudis Buelna. They brought one child: Ramon.
30. Pedro Antonio Bojorques, born in Sinaloa in 1754, brought his wife,
Maria Francisca de Lara, and daughter, Maria Agustina, age four. The wife
died January 28, 1777, the third death in San Francisco, and Pedro married
the widow of Corporal Domingo Alviso, Maria Angela Trejo, on the 20th of
July following. His son, Bartolome, was grantee of Laguna de San Antonio,
six leagues in Marin county.
Accompanying the expedition were four families of settlers (pobladores)
and three solteros (bachelors). The families were:
1. Jose Manuel Gonzales, with his wife, Maria Micaela Bojorques, and
children: Juan Jose, Ramon, Francisco, and Maria Gregoria. Jose Manuel was
made a poblador of San Jose Guadalupe.
2. Nicolas Galindo, born in Real de Santa Eulalia in 1743, brought with
him his wife, Maria Teresa Pinto, daughter of Pablo, and one child: Juan
Venancio, one year old. Nicolas enlisted, in the San Francisco company and
served until 1794, when he was retired and his son, Jose Rafael, took his
place. Jose Antonio Galindo, son of Juan Venancio, received on September
23, 1835, the first grant of land in San Francisco: La Laguna de la
Merced, twenty-two hundred and twenty acres in the southwestern part of
the city and county. On May 12, 1837, Galindo sold this rancho to
Francisco de Haro, for one hundred cows and twenty-five dollars in goods.
It now belongs to the Spring Valley Water Company and is valued at four
million dollars. Galindo also received in 1835, the Sausalito rancho which
he sold to William A. Richardson the following year. Other members of this
family received town lots in San Francisco and the lands of the Santa
Clara mission. A granddaughter of Nicolas Galindo married James Alexander
Forbes, English consul at Monterey.
3. Nicolas Antonio Berreyesa, born in Sinaloa in 1761, was accompanied by
his sister, Isabel, age twenty-two, both unmarried. Nicolas married
Gertrudis, daughter of Gabriel Peralta, and Isabel married Juan Jose
Peralta, her brother. Nicolas enlisted in the San Francisco company
October 1, 1782. His son, Jose de los Reyes, born in Santa Clara, January
6, 1785, was one of the first victims of the war of conquest. He was a
retired sergeant with thirty-seven years' service to his credit. He was
killed June 28, 1846, by Fremont's men as he landed from a boat at San
Rafael on his way to Sonoma to visit his son who was alcalde at that
place. With him were two sons of Francisco de Haro, Francisco and Ramon,
bearers of dispatches from Castro to his lieutenant Joaquin de la Torre.
Jose Reyes Berreyesa was owner of the land on which the New Almaden
quicksilver mines were situated The members of this family received the
following grants: Canada de Capay, Rincon de Musulacon, Chirules, San
Vicente, Malacomes, Milpitas, and Las Putas. Nicolas wrote his name
Berrelleza.
4. Maria Feliciana Arballo, widow of Jose Gutierrez, accompanied the
expedition with her two little girls: Maria Tomasa Gutierrez, age six, and
Maria Estaquia Gutierrez, age four. She left the expedition at San
Gabriel, where on March 6, 1776, she was married to Juan Francisco Lopez,
a soldier of the guard. The marriage ceremony was performed by Fray
Francisco Garces, missionary to the Colorado river tribes, who, it will be
remembered, Anza had left at the junction of the rivers. Garces had gone
up the Colorado to visit the Mojaves and had crossed the Mojave desert,
arriving at San Gabriel after the expedition had passed up the coast.
Little Maria Estaquia, thirteen years later, married Jose Maria Pico whom
she had first known when, a boy of eleven, he accompanied his family with
the expedition. She became the mother of Pio Pico. Maria Feliciana had, by
her second husband, Maria Ignacia de la Candelaria Lopez, who married
Joaquin Carrillo of San Diego, and became the mother of General Vallejo's
wife and four other daughters whose loveliness is duly recorded in the
pages of this historia verdadera. After her husband's death Maria Ignacia
Lopez de Carrillo, who was a most beautiful woman, was granted, in 1841,
the rancho Cabeza de Santa Rosa in Sonoma county, where she lived with her
son Ramon. She is buried in the ruined mission of San Francisco Solano, at
Sonoma. Her remains were laid under the font where it would receive the
holy water that fell from the hands of devout worshippers.
The three solteros were: Don Francisco Munos, Pedro Perez de la Fuente,
Marcos Villela.
Villela became a poblador at San Jose Guadalupe. Of the others, I know
nothing.
NOTE 13. BAC--TUBAC --TUCSON
Bac (house). The mission of San Xavier del Bac nine miles south of Tucson
was founded by Father Kino in 1700. On the expulsion of the Jesuits Father
Garces was assigned to this mission which he took charge of in 1768 and
administered for ten years. The present church, which is described as a
most remarkable object to find in so wild a country, was begun in 1768 and
finished in 1798. Bartlett, who visited it in 1852, said it was the
largest and most beautiful church in the State of Sonora. Benjamin Hayes,
writing in 1857, says: "San Xavier is not what it was when I passed in
1849. The magnificent church is becoming dilapidated, the Papagos who had
the care of it having left. It then looked magnificently over the dark
mesquite forest through which it is approached, with its white walls like
marble and its three domes. The altar seemed a mass of gold as the sun's
rays streamed upon it in the afternoon. It had thirteen good oil
paintings, kept in a side room with the altar furniture and priest's
robes. The interior walls were filled with scriptural scenes, fresh as if
painted the day before. * * * This church might be an ornament to Fourth
Street, Saint Louis, or to any other city." {Benj. Hayes: Emigrant Notes
MS. p. 150.}
Tubac. The presidio of Tubac was one of a chain of presidios guarding the
northern frontier of Sonora. It was erected in 1752 on the Santa Cruz
river, in what is now the Territory of Arizona, about forty-five miles
south of Tucson. In 1767 the place had a population of four hundred and
twenty gente de razon {People of Reason--Civilized Folk}, including the
families of the fifty soldiers of the garrison under Captain Anza. In 1776
the presidio was removed to Tucson. In 1777 the people of Tubac petitioned
for a restoration of the presidio and a company of Pimas was organized for
a permanent garrison. Later, the post was occupied by a company of Spanish
regulars. After the cession to the United States there was a temporary
revival of the old town. It is situated within the southern rain belt, in
the richest portion of the Santa Cruz valley. The annual rainfall is from
twenty to twenty-five inches. In 1858-9, Tubac had a population of eight
hundred, and the houses with their gardens and groves of acacias and peach
trees made the little town most attractive. It was in the center of the
mineral region and had probably one hundred and fifty silver mines within
a radius of sixteen miles. During the War of the Rebellion it was occupied
for a short time by Confederate troops and later by a regiment of
California volunteers. The location is adjacent to the Apacheria. It was
frequently raided by the Apaches and in 1861-62 and 63 was made
uninhabitable by those savage warriors, and several well-known mining
engineers fell victims to their fury. There is but little left of the
historic town now.
Tucson. The claim that Tucson was settled by the Spaniards in 1560 has no
foundation. Anza on his return from Monterey in 1775, reached Tuscon May
25th. He calls it the Pima pueblo of Teson and says it belongs to the
Pimas Altas (i. e. the inhabitants of Pimeria Alta); that it is within the
jurisdiction of his presidio and contains eighty families. Passing through
Tucson October 26, 1775, with the second expedition, Father Garces calls
it "A visita of my administration and the last christianized pueblo in
this direction" (north). The foundation of Tucson as a Spanish settlement
was in 1776, when the presidio of Tubac was transferred thither.
NOTE 14. THE DESTRUCTION OF THE MISSIONS OF THE COLORADO
Salvador Palma, chief of the Yumas, whose anxiety to embrace the true
religion and have his people converted to Christianity was so extreme that
he made peace with the surrounding nations and complied with all of Anza's
requirements, headed a revolt against the pueblo-missions of the Colorado
and totally destroyed them, killing Captain Fernando Rivera y Moncado,
lieutenant-governor of Lower California, the four priests in charge of the
missions--including this same Father Garces--and some forty-two of the
soldiers and settlers, one of whom was a private soldier in the company
now being entertained by him. While the tale is a cruel one, a study of
the events leading up to the outbreak forces the conclusion that from the
Indian's point of view there was much provocation. No one can read the
accounts given by Anza of the services rendered by this chief and his
Yumas without realizing how valuable to the infant establishments of
California was the friendship that Anza so carefully and successfully
cultivated. He records his opinion that Palma's affection and fidelity may
be fully trusted, and says that with the friendly assistance of the Yumas
the passage of the Colorado was assured, but if it were opposed by them it
would be next to impossible. On his first journey he trusted to the care
of the Yuma the lives of seven of his men, and what is especially tempting
to an Indian, a large part of his horses and cattle and the most of his
baggage with its precious stores of trinkets, tobacco, and other things of
value to the savage; all of which was safely guarded and returned to him
when he came back from Monterey, although the time set for his return was
long passed and reports had been received that Anza and all his party had
been killed by the hill tribes of California.
On Anza's return from San Francisco in 1776, Palma accompanied him to the
City of Mexico where he was well entertained. Bucareli, favorably
impressed with him and Anza's report concerning him, promised to establish
a presidio and two missions on the Rio Colorado. The project was delayed
by Indian troubles in the Pimeria Alta, and in the meantime a new element
was introduced which gave the execution of the plan into new and untried
hands. The office of comandante-general of the Provincias Internas de
Occidente was created and made independent of the viceroy; Don Teodoro de
Croix was appointed to the place and Anza was sent as governor to New
Mexico. Palma was still in the City of Mexico when the new official
arrived. Bucareli commended him to Croix who promised to give the matter
his early attention, and Palma returned to his people much pleased with
his reception and importance. A year passed and nothing was done. Palma
went to Altar to ascertain the cause of the delay. The captain of that
presidio satisfied him that matters were progressing and he returned to
the Colorado. Another year passed with nothing accomplished. Palma's
people taunted him with his failure and his allies regarded him with
contempt. The authority of an Indian chief is but precarious at best. He
must be wise; he must be strong; but above all he must be successful. The
domination of Palma was largely due to the recognition and confirmation of
his authority by the Spaniards. He was now being discredited. He went
again to Altar and thence to Horcasitas whose commander represented to the
comandante-general the uneasiness of the Indians of the Colorado. The king
had been advised of Palma's visit to Mexico, had seen Anza's reports of
his two expeditions as well as Garces' reports on the Yumas, and he
ordered Croix to concede to Palma the promised presidio and missions. The
comandante-general, however, had ideas of his own on that subject and he
attempted to console Palma by sending Friars Garces and Diaz with an
escort of twelve soldiers and a scanty equipment to the Colorado. They
reached Palma's domain late in 1779 and great was the disappointment and
chagrin of the Yumas. The contrast between what they expected and what
they got was too great. In 1775 there had passed through their country a
great expedition with a large body of troops clad in leather armor
(soldados de cuera), great herds of cattle and trains of sumpter mules
laden with precious wares, all under command of an officer of high rank
and dignified bearing who created governors and alcaldes, conferred
decorations in the name of the king, and scattered largess with a liberal
hand. All this gallant array was for the purpose of founding a presidio
and two missions on the bay of San Francisco. They had been promised a
like establishment in their country, and now, after years of patient
waiting, the fulfillment of that promise came in the shape of two priests,
twelve soldiers, and a beggarly outfit hardly sufficient for their own
subsistence. Many Indians were already in revolt and the peace, so
carefully established by Anza, had already been broken by the murder of a
Yuma by the Papagos. It was the beginning of war between the tribes and of
general distrust of the Spaniards. Garces, whose wide experience had
taught him the Indian character, reported the dangers of the situation and
Croix resolved to adopt a new plan in the establishments of the Colorado
and found two missions each of which should combine the features of a
presidio, a pueblo, and a mission. Against the protests of Garces and the
warnings of Anza he proceeded to carry his plan into effect; and the
autumn of 1780 witnessed the arrival in the land of the Yumas of twenty
settlers, twelve laborers, and twenty-one soldiers, all bringing their
wives and plenty of children. The number of priests was increased to four.
One presidio-pueblo-mission was established at Puerto de la Concepcion,
later the site of Fort Yuma, where the partly demolished remains of stone
walls of buildings were seen by Bartlett in 1852; and the other about
eight miles down the river, almost on the boundary line between Alta and
Baja California, both on the California side of the river. The upper
establishment was called La Purisima Concepcion and the lower San Pedro y
San Pablo de Bicuner. The new settlers proceeded to appropriate the best
lands and forage their cattle and horses on the growing crops of the
Yumas.
Nothing more was needed to fan the smouldering discontent into the fierce
flame of open rebellion. Ensign Santiago de las Islas was in command and
in June 1781, came Captain Rivera y Moncada from Sonora with a party of
recruits for the California establishments. The recruits Rivera sent on to
California, a portion of his escort he sent back to Sonora and, with about
a dozen of his men, he remained to his death in camp on the Arizona side
of the river.
On Tuesday, July 17, 1781, the blow fell. Under the leadership of Palma
the attack was made simultaneously on both missions and all but seven of
the men were killed; the women and children were carried into captivity
and the houses were destroyed. Garces was at Concepcion and both he and
his companion, Father Barrenche, survived the first attack, and while the
Indians were killing right and left and looting the houses, both padres
were busy hearing confessions and administering the sacraments to the
dying. Both were beaten to death with clubs two days later. On the
eighteenth the Yumas crossed the river, and attacked Rivera, killing the
commander and all of his men and destroying his camp. Thus ended the first
and last attempt to establish missions on the Colorado.
The death of Father Garces in his forty-fourth year closed the earthly
career of one of the most heroic, spiritual, and lovable of men. Born in
the Villa de Morata del Conde, in Aragon, April 12, 1738, baptized
Francisco Tomas Hermenegildo, he was carefully educated, ordained in the
priesthood, and at the age of twenty-five was sent, at his earnest
request, a missionary, to the college of the Santa Cruz de Queretaro
(Mexico). In 1768 he was given charge of San Javier del Bac. He visited
the various pueblos of the Pimas and Papagos and in August of that year
made his first visit to the Gila. In 1770 he made another trip to the
pueblos of the Gila and in 1771 traveled to the junction of the Gila and
Colorado. The Yumas took him across the Colorado on a raft into Lower
California and he wandered for some time among the Indians of the lower
Colorado, preaching and baptizing the dying. He accompanied Anza on his
first expedition of 1774 as far as San Gabriel, and accompanied him on the
second trip as far as the Colorado. He visited the tribes up the river,
crossed the Mojave desert to San Gabriel and discovered the Mojave river.
Returning he passed into Tulare valley, discovered Kern river and went
nearly to Tulare lake. He visited the Moqui pueblos whose .inhabitants
refused to receive him and would give him neither shelter nor food. In
this journey he was alone, his guide, in fear of his life, refusing to go
with him.
In much of his wanderings he was alone, in the desolate desert or in the
midst of ruthless savages, yet he was without fear, for he was on the
Master's service. In his death at the hands of those he loved and for the
welfare of whose souls he labored, he was found worthy of the highest
reward, the crown of martyrdom. Precious in the sight of the Lord is the
death of the just.
NOTE 15. THE COLORADO DESERT
In order to realize Anza's great achievement, one has but to read the
passage of this desert by the advance guard of the Army of the West under
General Stephen W. Kearny in November 1846, as told by Lieutenant W. H.
Emory, U. S. Topographical Engineers, accompanying the expedition {30th
Cong.1st. Ses. Ex. Doc. No. 41.} Kearny, with his staff and one hundred
dragoons, a pack-train, and a large supply of extra saddle and pack
animals, followed the route of the "great highway" opened by Anza seventy
years before. The hardships and sufferings of these toughened soldiers in
crossing this desert were great, and they lost a large number of animals.
Also read Bartlett {Bartlett: Personal Narrative} who crossed the desert
in June 1852.
A great change has been wrought in this desolate region. The waters of the
Rio Colorado have caused the desert to bloom as the rose; grains and
grasses, fruits and flowers cover the once glistening sands, and the
mesquite and cactus have given way for the date, the fig, and the olive.
But the genius of the desert was not to be overcome without a struggle. By
the advancing forces of reclamation and civilization the mighty power of
the great river had not been sufficiently considered and suddenly the
Colorado asserted itself; it deserted its channel and poured its flood
through the canal opened to convey a portion of its waters to the arroyo
of the Alamo river and thence to the irrigating canals. The force of the
river soon widened the intake to a channel of six hundred yards and the
entire flow of the Colorado went racing down the comparatively steep
incline to the Salton sea. Desperate attempts were made to dam the new
channel. A channel was opened between the Alamo and the Rio Padrones in an
effort to divert the flood through the Rio Padrones, Volcano lake, and
Hardy's Colorado to the gulf; but just north of the lake the water cut a
channel for itself from Rio Padrones through to New river and flowed
thence northwest to Salton sea, which began to fill under the flow from
two channels; the Alamo and New rivers. The water rapidly eroded the soft
silt of the desert forming deep channels and cataracts which, progressing
up stream, threatened to result in conditions that would not permit of the
waters being diverted into the irrigating canals, being from sixty to
eighty feet below the surface of the surrounding country.
An appeal was made to the Federal government and on January 12, 1906, the
president sent a message to Congress asking for an appropriation of two
million dollars to control the Colorado river and save the homes of the
settlers of the Imperial valley of California, as it is called; but it was
not until February 1907 that the stream was finally subjugated.
In December 1908 I visited the valley and plucked a delicious orange from
a four year old tree in a grove in the midst of the terrible desert. The
so-called rivers of the Colorado desert are but dry channels through which
the waters of the Colorado flow when the river is in flood. The flow is
northward, and in times of great freshet the waters have reached and
filled the Salton sea, a depression in the northern part of the desert
lying some three hundred feet below sea level. There are two of these
rivers, the Alamo or Salton river, and the New river. The Rio Padrones
connects the New river with the Colorado. It takes the overflow of the
great river at a point six or eight miles below the boundary line and
conveys it through several channels to Volcano lake, thence through New
river to Salton sea, and also through Hardy's Colorado to the gulf. The
waters of the Colorado have reached Salton sea several times within the
memory of the present generation; the depression is now filled to a depth
of nearly eighty feet and the water covers an area of about three hundred
square miles.
Hardy's Colorado is another of these overflow rivers--in this case being
supplied by the flood from above. In May 1826 Lieutenant R. W. H. Hardy of
the British navy, traveling in Mexico, chartered in the port of Guaymas a
twenty-five ton schooner, El Bruja, and sailed to the head of the gulf.
Encountering a good deal of trouble in high winds and shoals he finally
reached a vein of reddish water which he surmised came from "Red" river
and at two o'clock of the same day he saw an opening ahead which he took
to be the mouth and he sailed into it and anchored for the night at half
past six. At midnight he cast the lead and found but a foot and a half of
water. He got off without damage at the next rise of the tide but next day
he broke his rudder and continued his exploration for some distance upward
in a small boat. He thought the mouth of the Gila was below him, but what
he took for the Gila was the Colorado itself. He was in a bayou or flood
water channel from which he finally extricated himself. This channel is
still called Hardy's Colorado.
The Beginnings of San Francisco - End of Notes 1-15
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