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Richmond in by-gone days - Part 2
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CHAPTER VII. OLD RESIDENCES.
WHEN Shockoe hill began to change its aspect from fields and forests, to
streets and squares, the greater portion of the latter was held by wealthy
and by professional gentlemen. The bar of Richmond toward the close of the
last century possessed a greater number of members of distinguished
talent, than almost any other in the Union--and many of them resided on
Shockoe hill.
To each residence, with few exceptions, was attached the ground of an
entire square of two acres, or at least that of half a square. A strong
contrast to what may now be seen, when the old domicile and its
appurtenances are supplanted and occupied by twenty or more tenements If
the crowding system continues to contract our space, we may presently
emulate the bee-hive system of Baltimore, where a man can scarcely stand
with his arms a-kimbo on his front steps, without jostling his neighbor,
if he happens to be in a similar position.
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Among the oldest and most respectable of the occupants of Shockoe hill was
the Ambler family, of which the Treasurer Jaquelin Ambler was the head--
his own residence yet stands, between Marshall and Clay streets, and is
occupied by one of his sons-in-law. His daughters were married to
gentlemen who built their dwellings not far from the paternal mansion, and
a distinguished circle they formed. Chief Justice (then General) Marshall
is entitled to priority. His residence yet stands on the street named in
his honor, but the grounds have been reduced one half, and a number of
fine dwellings erected on them, between Eighth and Ninth streets. Of Judge
Marshall I will not presume to say more, than, that his personal
appearance and deportment as a citizen were of the most unpretending
character--of true republican simplicity--but natural, not assumed--his
dress was plain even to negligence, of which he seemed unconscious. He
marketed for himself, and might be seen at an early hour returning home,
with a pair of fowls, or a basket of eggs in his hand, not with
ostentatious humility, but for mere convenience. His style of travelling
to and from Raleigh, N. C., about 175 miles each
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way, to preside at the Federal Court held there, was for many years, in
that primitive sort of vehicle, a stick gig, (or chair as it was then
called) with one horse and with no attendant. The modest and unassuming
simplicity of his character is evinced to the last, in the inscription
which he directed for his tombstone:
"John Marshall, son of Thomas and Mary Marshall, was born the 24th of
September, 1755. Intermarried with Mary Willis Ambler, the 3d of January,
1783. Departed this life the 6th of July, 1835."
A fine and correct portrait of Judge Marshall and of some other old
citizens, may be seen in the studio of the worthy artist Mr. Martin. This
portrait of the Chief Justice should decorate some public hall.
Col. Edward Carrington, also a soldier of the Revolution, married another
of the Misses Ambler, a most excellent lady, as was each of her sisters.
He was a member of the Old Congress in 1785--6. The high estimation in
which Col. Carrington was held by his personal friend General Washington,
is shown by his selection of him to be Quarter Master General, when in
1798 war with
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France was expected, and an organization of officers formed for the crisis.
Under John Adams's administration, Col. Carrington held the office of
Commissioner of the Revenue of the United States for Virginia; direct
taxes being then resorted to, in consequence of the depredations on our
commerce.
The very humble edifice, yet standing, shaded by an old Catalpa tree, at
the northwest corner of Marshall and Eleventh streets, was the office of
the Commissioner. His residence which was demolished a few years ago, was
on the same square, fronting on Clay street. Col. Carrington was a man of
dignified deportment, which was well sustained by his tall and massive
figure. He was a pure patriot, and pure in all the relations of life. He
died October 28th, 1810--aged 61.
Daniel Call, a distinguished lawyer, married another of the sisters
Ambler, and his residence on the square between the Capitol and Broad
street, was also taken down a few years ago to be substituted by Mr.
Valentine's large store.
George Fisher married a fourth sister, and he, a retired merchant, and one
of our oldest citizens, is the survivor of all that I have
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mentioned, and is the occupant of the patriarchal mansion of Treasurer
Ambler.
One other of the name, Major Ambler, had his residence and domain nearly
opposite to Col. Carrington's on the brow of the hill commanding a
splendid landscape, where Mrs. Bruce's fine mansion has supplanted its
ruinous predecessor. Previous to Major Ambler's occupancy, it was the
residence of Lewis Burwell, a gentleman of the old school in dress and
style of living.
Judge P. N. Nicholas resided on the opposite square, and B. Watkins Leigh,
the eminent jurist and statesman, on the adjoining one; but many years
later than the old residents I have named. The house he occupied was built
by Dr. McClurg, whose granddaughter Miss Wickham, was Mr. Leigh's second
wife. The name of Leigh his distinguished in our annals, civil and
political.
On the square east of Treasurer Ambler's, was the mansion of Col. John
Harvie, Register of the Land Office. He removed to the fine country seat,
Belvidere, built by Col. Byrd, the son of the founder of Richmond, beyond
its western limit, and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding
country. After passing through various hands, its last
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occupants were a number of families of iron workers, and thus, "fallen
from its high estate," it was recently destroyed by fire.
The city residence of Col. Harvie, shaded by noble elms, became that of
the celebrated lawyer, John Wickham, the eloquent, the witty, and the
graceful. After him, it had many successive occupants.
To a fair friend, who was among the latest of these, and one of the
brightest, gentlest, and fairest, that had graced those halls, and who
graced them for several years, these pages are dedicated.
Mr. Wickham sold this residence, and erected a splendid dwelling on the
same square. The site of the former one is now occupied by the spacious
edifice of the Baptist Female Institute.
A son of Col. Harvie, with a higher military title, and who married a
daughter of Judge Marshall, built on and occupies the square north of the
Ambler house.(1)
On Marshall street, opposite to the Ambler square, we now pass the former
residence of Alexander Botts, a learned member of the bar, who was one of
the victims of the conflagration at the theatre, in 1811. He was
(1. This gentleman died since the above was written.)
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the father of John Minor Botts, the conspicuous politician.
On the same square with Mr. Botts's, stands the many-angled house erected
by Alexander McRae, a lawyer of eminence, but, in the latter part of his
career, Consul at Paris. When a candidate for the legislature on one
occasion, his opponent was Samuel McCraw, also a lawyer, who occupied a
square at the upper end of Grace street--now Mr. Tate's. During the
canvass, a brother lawyer, whose talents, unlike Mr. McRae's, greatly
exceeded in proportion his corporeal dimensions, composed a sort of parody
of one of Swift's effusions, but not like that, obnoxious to decency,
running thus--
"Hurray for McRae and Hurrau for McCraw!
Hurray and Hurrau for McRae and McCraw!
Hurrau for McCraw and Hurray for McRae!
Hurrau and Hurray for McCraw and McRae!
Hurrau for McRae and Hurray for McCraw!
Hurray and Hurrau for McRae and McCraw!
Hurray for McCraw and Hurrau for McRae!
Hurrau and Hurray for McCraw and McRae!!"
At a subsequent election, Mr. McRae being present when Mr. Thomas Taylor
voted for the candidate whose cause Mr. McRae espoused, he said, "Mr.
Taylor, that is the first correct vote you ever gave." "Perhaps
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it is," replied Mr. T. in his blandest manner, "for I once gave a vote to
you, Mr. McRae."
Continuing up Marshall street we pass the Railway work-shops, where
formerly stood the residence of George Pickett, and nearly opposite stands
that erected by his partner, Robert Pollard--the quiet and peaceable
gentleman, who offered, a little sarcastically, to relinquish his horse
rather than stand a lawsuit.
As I have introduced Mr. Pickett, I am reminded of an instance of Yankee
cuteness, which I heard him relate. A Connecticut trader came to Richmond
with a cargo of Yankee notions, and in addition to the customary medley he
had a few casks of fine Madeira wine. In seeking customers for such
commodities he would of course call on Mr. Pickett. He proffered to him a
bargain in apples, onions, fish and Hingham buckets, at all which,
particularly the onions and fish, Mr. Pickett turned up his nose. The
trader then mentioned the wine, at which Mr. P. rather smacked his lips,
and was invited, with some other connoisseurs, to test its flavor. It
proved quite satisfactory and the price was not unreasonable. Mr. P. who
was not dull at bargaining, told the Yankee that he had
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no money to lay out in wine, but he had some Western lands on the Ohio,
and if they would serve for payment, he would take a few casks. The Yankee
demurred at the barter but would consider of it, if Mr. P. would take the
"Sarce" and other notions; which being disdainfully rejected, the
chaffering was closed--or rather suspended; for soon after the trader
called at Mr. P.'s counting room in a careless way, and the offer of the
lands was repeated, and that of the onions, &c., urged as a sine qua non.
At length the Yankee asked to look at the land warrants and surveys, and
from among them, selected one or more, which he said contained as much
land as he could take. The prices were after due higgling agreed on, the
barter was made and so were the conveyances. After the deeds and the wines
had been duly delivered, Mr. Pickett said to "the party of the second
part," "Now, my friend, let me give you a piece of advice, don't again buy
wild lands unless you have seen them." The Yankee thanked Mr. P. for his
advice, and not willing to be exceeded in generosity, said he "would offer
some in return, which was, never to sell wild lands until you have seen
them." "Why," said Mr. P. "what do you
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know about the land?" To which the reply was "I have traded on the Ohio
and looked about the country; examined the soil and the advantages of
situation, and found out who were the owners of such as I liked best. In
fact Mr. Pickett, I came to Richmond to buy this tract of land from you.
It contains water power and other advantages, and I would not part with it
for five times what it cost me." This land was, if I am not misinformed,
at the confluence of the Muskingum and Ohio, and became the site of
Marietta.
I will also mention a curious circumstance I heard from Mr. Pollard. A man
in Connecticut wrote to him, requesting that Mr. P. would address a letter
to him, stating his wish to buy a certain piece of land in the West, for
which he would give a good price, say $10,000, promising that the offer
should not be used to Mr. P.'s injury, nor should he be considered as
committing himself by it. The applicant added, that he wished to use the
letter to effect a sale he had in view, and he would on any other occasion
render a similar service to Mr. Pollard!
Charles Johnson, afterwards President of the Farmers' Bank in Lynchburg,
was a partner with Pickett & Pollard, and these
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gentlemen dealt very largely in Western lands, which may account for the
two affairs I have mentioned.
Mr. Johnston, when a very young man, in 1789, accompanied a party in an
attempt to descend the Ohio. They were made prisoners by the Indians, most
of them killed, and he, one of the few survivors, after dreadful
sufferings, and once even at the point of being burned at the stake, was,
after a long march, sold to a humane Frenchman, an Indian trader from
Detroit, who carried Mr. Johnston there, treated him most kindly and
furnished him with the means of returning home. Many years afterwards Mr.
Johnston had the satisfaction of welcoming in Virginia his deliverer, Mr.
Dechouquet. A narrative of these events was published by Mr. Johnston in
1827.
The large and respectable old mansion on the summit of Gamble's hill,
overlooking the Armory, and all the country around, was erected, but left
unfinished by Colonel Randolph (the father of Governor T. M. Randolph),
whose second wife was the daughter of Colonel J. Harvie, of Belvidere, and
after the death of Colonel Randolph, became the wife of Dr. John
Brockenbrough, who was
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for many years Cashier and President of the Bank of Virginia, and more
recently proprietor of the Warm Springs, where he died in 1853.
The mansion was purchased and finished and occupied by Colonel Robert
Gamble, who in advanced years, but still an active merchant, and I should
add a most estimable citizen, was accidentally killed by being thrown from
his horse. His sons and partners in trade, John and Robert, were valuable
citizens in both civil and military capacities. The former commanded the
Light Infantry Blues, and the latter the Richmond Troop of Horse, and were
in service in the war of 1812. They were among the first adventurers to
Florida, after its cession to the United States, and among its most
enterprizing and valuable citizens. John died in 1853, and Robert is yet
an active and energetic man. When the Indians were committing depredations
around him, he remained unharmed, because he had always been kind to them.
One of their sisters became the wife of William Wirt, and the other of W.
H. Cabell, at one time Governor of Virginia, and after wards President of
the Court of Appeals.
The extensive grounds around the old
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mansion have been divided and subdivided until but a small portion remains
attached to it. It is now flanked on one side by a Gothic tower, on the
very apex of the hill; a distant view of which gives to the hill a Rhenish
aspect; but in the good old colonel's time the visitor at a nearer view
would more likely be reminded of Madeira.
The following ludicrous anecdote is related by Kennedy in his Life of
Wirt, concerning some of the personages above named. It occurred, in 1803,
when Mr. Wirt was awaiting Colonel Gamble's sanction to his marriage with
Miss Gamble.
"Colonel Gamble had occasion, one summer morning, to visit his future son-
in-law's office. It unluckily happened that Wirt had the night before,
brought some young friends there, and they had had a merry time of it,
which so beguiled the hours, that even now, at sunrise, they had not
separated. The Colonel opened the door, little expecting to find any
company there at that hour. His eyes fell on the strangest group! There
stood Wirt with the poker in his right hand, the sheet iron blower on his
left arm, which was thrust through the handle; on his head was a tin
washbasin, and as to the rest of his
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dress, it was hot weather and the hero of this grotesque scene had
dispensed with as much of his trappings as comfort might require,
substituting for them a light wrapper, that greatly aided the theatrical
effect. There he stood, in this whimsical caparison, reciting with great
gesticulation Falstaff's onset on the thieves, his back to the door. The
opening of it attracted the attention of all. We may imagine the queer
look of the anxious probationer, as Colonel Gamble, with grave and
mannerly silence, bowed and withdrew, closing the door behind him without
the exchange of a word."
The spot on which the First Presbyterian Church now stands was formerly
occupied by the humble residence of a distinguished man and eminent
lawyer, Edmund Randolph, who erected and afterwards occupied the mansion
between that church and the City Hall.
On the square west of the Capitol, and on part of which stands St. Paul's
Church, Bushrod Washington built a small office, which may yet be seen in
rear of the church. I will venture to record an anecdote which I have
heard of this distinguished gentleman and his illustrious relative. When
practicing law in Richmond, in early life, during the
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presidency of Washington, his friends urged Bushrod Washington to apply
for the office of district attorney in the United States Court for
Virginia. He did so, but, it is said, with some hesitation. Washington in
reply, asked him if he had perceived anything in his conduct to justify
such a request, and whether he could suppose that he would use the
patronage of his office for the benefit of any one connected with him,
however worthy? I cannot vouch for the truth of this, but I am strongly
impressed with it, and I may add that the principle was not adopted as a
precedent by Washington's successors; some of whom pursued a diametrically
opposite course, and seemed to consider consanguinity a sufficient
qualification for office, without any other. Bushrod Washington was deemed
worthy by his uncle's successor to fill a much higher station, and was
appointed one of the Justices of the Supreme Court. He resided at Mount
Vernon after the death of Washington, but removed from Richmond, I think,
previously to that event.
The square on which his office stands was purchased by George Hay, a
lawyer of eminence, who became District Attorney under Mr. Jefferson, and
who erected the present
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residence, fronting the Capitol square. He was prosecuting attorney at the
trial of Aaron Burr, and had to encounter an array of talent rarely
exceeded at any bar--but he did not fight single handed, though against
great odds.
On the square south of the Capitol, where the United States is now
erecting a Court Room, Custom House and Post Office, resided one of the
most eminent physicians and talented men of his time--which is no faint
praise. I mean Dr. James McClurg. He served in the Medical staff during
the Revolutionary war, and was declared to be the most skilful and
accomplished medical officer in the division of the army, serving in this
part of the Union. He was a member of the Convention that formed the
Constitution of the United States, but did not sign it.
His original residence in Richmond was a small Dutch roofed wooden house,
recently demolished, as has been a portion of the larger one of brick
erected near it by the doctor, and afterwards occupied by the Bank of
Virginia. His third and most spacious dwelling was built on Grace street,
the grounds attached to it extending to Broad street. Now shorn of a large
portion of superfluous territory,
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but retaining a spacious one it is occupied by Dr. C. B. Gibson. A short
biography of Dr. McClurg, who was the uncle of Dr. McCaw, has been
published by a grandson of the latter.
On the square west of the last mentioned residence on Grace street, stood
the old fashioned double winged, triple porticoed house of Major Du Val,
one of the last of the cocked hats, satin shorts and bag wigs.
For the information of my younger readers I will tell them, that a bag wig
was furnished with a black silk plaited appendage, something like a lady's
reticule, (and entitled to the appellation of a gentleman's ridicule). The
queue or tail of the wig was inserted into this bag, which was drawn
tightly at the top to retain the hair and dangled behind like a pendulum.
The Du Val lot was said to be the scene of Ralph Ringwood's adventure as
told by Washington Irving. It was afterwards occupied by the celebrated
William Wirt, but like many cotemporary wooden structures, it has of late
years changed its location, and retired to one in the suburbs.
On the opposite square stood the unpretending abode of that learned, wise
and excellent
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man, George Wythe, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
and whose life is interwoven with the history of Virginia, from his early
manhood to his latest years.
He was a conspicuous member of the Convention that formed the Federal
Constitution, but did not sign it; ten years previously to which, on the
organization of the government of Virginia, he was appointed Chancellor of
the Court of Equity, which arduous office he filled until his death. This
occurred on the 8th of June, 1806, and was believed to have been caused by
poison, administered by a youthful relative whom he had cherished and who
expected to inherit his estate--but no convicting evidence was adduced.
The miscreant was disappointed in his object, for Mr. Wythe had changed
his will and disinherited him a few days before his death.
Does any tombstone mark the spot where this good and wise and learned
jurist and patriot was buried? Virginia would honor herself more than she
would him by such a memorial.
The square on which he resided was preeminent as was its owner. It was on
the highest spot in the City, as ascertained by Mr. Watkins, who first
surveyed it, and who
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erected a small dwelling on the same square, which was taken down not many
years ago, to be replaced by Mr. Dunlop's residence.
On the square west of the Chancellor's, and at the corner of Franklin and
Fifth streets, lived John Warden, a Scotchman--one of the best read and
worst featured, most good tempered and most ill formed; but among the most
well informed members of the Richmond bar--his mind and body were a bundle
of contrasts. His ugliness was so attractive and so strongly marked, that
the boys used to amuse themselves in drawing likenesses of his short thick
figure, crooked legs and satyr-like features on the walls of the Court
room. But his talents, wit and humor compensated for the externals, in
which nature had been so niggardly.
On one occasion in Court, when Mr. Wickham and Mr. Hay were adverse
counsel, the former got the latter into a dilemma. On which Mr. Warden
whispered to Mr. Wirt, "Habet fenum in cornu,"(1) who extemporised the
following Epigram:
"Wickham one day in open court
Was tossing Hay about for sport:
Jock rich in Wit and Latin too,
Cried "Habet fenum in cornu."
(1. "He has hay on his horns." The Romans tied hay on the horns of
mischievous Cattle, both as a caution and as a protection to those who
approached them. Hence the term was applied to "a dangerous fellow.")
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Mr. Warden retained with his broad Scotch dialect his allegiance to the
mother country, and looked rather contemptuously on Republicanism in its
infancy, and on its rebel representatives. The following is ascribed to
him, and also to a brother Scotchman--I cannot say which is entitled to
it. During a session of the Legislature, he was reported to have uttered
contemptuous expressions concerning that body. The Sergeant-at-arms
arrested and brought him to the bar of the house. The Speaker charged him
with the offence and required him to retract it on his knees, or he should
be sent to prison. The sarcastic Scot assumed the prescribed humble
position, and thus apologized: "Mr. Speaker, I confess I did say that your
honors were not fit to carry guts to a bear--I now retract that assertion,
and acknowledge that you are fit." Then slowly rising, he brushed the dust
from his knees -- muttered "a dommed dirty hoose," made his bow and
retired, amid the mirth and mortification of the members and the
bystanders.
The residence of the celebrated and eccentric
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Alexander Campbell was the same that Mr. Warden afterwards occupied. His
name appears in the constellation of lawyers that shone in the early days
of the Commonwealth. He was a materialist in faith, or rather in the lack
of faith, and in the singular will he made, in 1795, he says, "I hope no
tombstone will be raised over me, because it will merely hinder something
from growing on the spot. If all men had tombstones erected over their
graves, the earth, in a few centuries, would be one entire pavement."
Descending Fifth street from Mr. Warden's, we first pass the house
surmounted by a cupola (a questionable ornament to a dwelling), once
occupied by John Barrett, the father of the gentleman who now lives near
the same spot. We next pass the square formerly occupied by the Singleton
family, now by Mr. Hobson and other gentlemen, and then we descend to the
square of William Hay, on which a tall collonade is now seen, and many
other buildings are erected. Opposite to this is the handsome residence,
built and long occupied by Joseph Marx, an enterprising merchant and
valuable citizen. Here terminated the residences in old times, except that
of William Munford, who filled the office of Clerk
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of the House of Delegates for many years, and left a worthy successor to
the station in his eldest son. The metrical translation of Homer, by Mr.
Munford, published after his death, is pronounced, by eminent Greek
scholars, to be the most faithful one extant.
The house now occupied by John Robertson Esq., (late Judge,) was, more
than fifty years ago, the residence of his father, William Robertson,
Clerk of the Council, who there reared a large family. Boiling Robertson,
Governor of Louisiana, was one of his sons, and others were not
undistinguished. They are descendants of Pocahontas, as the names of
several members indicate. That Princess must have possessed a greater
share of beauty than her portraits exhibit, if we may judge by that of her
female descendants, who are distinguished for it.
The spacious square on Franklin street between Second and Third, retained
its full dimensions during about fifty, years' occupancy by its quiet and
unaspiring proprietor, Anthony Robinson, except that, in the latter years
of his life, he apportioned a part of it to one of his sons, on which to
erect a residence. His own yet stands.
An antique dwelling, half brick, half wood,
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with the square on which it stood, on the south side of Main, between
Second and Third streets, was the residence many years ago, of Major
Andrew Dunscombe, a soldier of the Revolution and a gentleman of the olden
time. He was, I think, a Master in Chancery of Judge Wythe's Court, and if
I mistake not, he erected Goodall's tavern (the Indian Queen), since
called the Washington, and now the Monument. The small brick office which
he occupied has just now (1855) been taken down, to make room for an
addition to the hotel. The name of Dunscombe, most worthily represented by
the Major, no longer exists in our community. A brother of his was Clerk
of the Federal Court in New York many years ago.
Among the broad spaces formerly occupied by old citizens, was the square
extending from Franklin to Main and from Seventh to Eighth streets, on
which stood, on the summit of a high hill, the residence of Archibald
Blair, Clerk of the City Council, opposite to where the United
Presbyterian Church now stands. At the foot of the hill was a pond, fed by
a spring and shaded by forest trees and shrubs. The hill and the trees
have been cut down, the pond has been filled up, and
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Mr. Stewart's row of fine dwellings covers a part of the leveled surface.
The front on Main street remains unimproved, and less attractive than when
in a state of nature. Mr. Blair's territories extended over one or two
other squares, which have also submitted to the leveling system.
His neighbor, John Graham, a Scotchman, and among the first to engage in
coal-mining, transplanted his vineyard from Main and Twelfth street,
(where a tall edifice and several less aspiring ones rear their fronts) to
the square above Mr. Blair's, now built up chiefly by Mr. William Allen. A
portion of this square contains the former residence of the late Mr. John
Robinson, for fifty years clerk of various Courts, according to the
changes of organization, and one of his sons became his successor in that
which he last filled. His other sons are distinguished, one as a jurist,
and two others by their connexion with railroads. Another portion of the
Graham square contains the fine edifices erected by the Messrs. James and
occupied as the Arlington House. Such was the inequality of the ground in
this part of the city, that Mr. Allen had to build two stories above the
foundations to reach
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the surface of the street, while on the next square the original surface
was as high as the second stories of the present dwellings.
On an adjoining square, Mr. Edward Cunningham, an Irish gentleman, engaged
in the milling and mercantile business, erected a capacious dwelling,
afterwards the residence of the late Dr. Watson, and still occupied by his
family.
The occupant of this lot in the last century was John Dobie whose house
now forms an office within the yard. He was the architect of the Capitol,
if not a capital architect, as the want of symmetry in the columns of that
building would imply.
One of the dwellings between the Washington Tavern and the Catholic church
was the residence of John Brown, for many years Clerk of the General
Court, and a most accomplished one in all that regarded the duties of the
station. In his office and under his instruction, was formed that corps of
clerks so distinguished for the beauty and neatness of their records, in
many Virginia courts, some years ago. John Robinson was one of them, and
served for fifty years after the death of his predecessor. Mr. Brown
accompanied General Marshall as his secretary, when he went to
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Paris with Pinckney and Gerry, Envoys Extraordinary to the French
republic. James Brown Jr., late Auditor, is the only surviving member of
his father's family.
Two fine elm trees, planted probably before the introduction of those
upstarts, the Lombardy poplars, are all that remain to designate the
former residence, at the corner of Broad and Seventh streets, of John
Hopkins, Commissioner of Loans of the United States, and of the
distinguished occupant who succeeded him, John A. Chevallie, of whom I
shall probably take occasion to speak elsewhere.
On the north side of Broad, between Second and Third streets, yet stands a
wooden building (as most of that date were), the former residence of the
Braxton family, whose inclosure embraced the square--now built up with
shops, the names on which would indicate a German colony. Indeed, the line
of Broad street is occupied chiefly by Germans, as is a considerable
portion of many other streets. The Braxtons removed to their estates on
the Pamunky many years ago, and that family and the community, sustained a
heavy loss about two years since, in the sudden
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death of General Braxton, of Chericoke, a most estimable man and useful
citizen.
The dwelling at the south-west corner of Grace and Seventh streets, with
the front extending to Sixth, including the ground now occupied by the
Rev. Mr. Woodbridge, was in 1800 the residence of Mr. Brydie, a Scotch
merchant of the firm of McClure, Brydie & Co. Mr. McClure was a gentleman
of scientific pursuits, and his name will be found in annals of that
character.
Mr. McCredie, who on the death of Mr. Brydie, became his successor both in
his mercantile and domestic establishments, met with his death in a manner
that created great excitement in the city. On occasion of an alarm of
fire, he was hastening across the Capitol Square, when the sentry hailed
him. He did not hear, or did not heed the challenge, and the sentry most
unwarrantably fired and shot him dead.
The commercial house of McClure, Brydie & Co., was one of the first in the
city in respectability as well as seniority. It was located near Shocco
Warehouse, and on the steep, and now dirty alley extending down to
Virginia street, may yet be seen a portion of
Page 90
the stone wall which enclosed their premises of the same extent.
The death of Mr. McCredie reminds me of another that occurred near the
same spot. Col. Tatem, an old soldier, and either very eccentric or
deranged, and moreover poor, determined to close his life on the fourth of
July. He took his station near the artillery, when a salute was being
fired, and watching his opportunity, stepped in front of a cannon at the
moment the match was applied. His body was blown to atoms.
An unpretending wooden building near the corner of Leigh and Fifth streets
was the residence of the Rev. Richard Channing Moore, Bishop of Virginia.
What would an English Primate think of such a palace?
This worthy minister was invited, in November, 1813, by Bushrod
Washington, then residing at Mount Vernon and E. J. Lee at Alexandria, to
take charge of the Episcopal church then building at Richmond (the
Monumental), with the intention to make him Bishop of the Diocese, which
was effected, and in 1814, he was consecrated at Philadelphia. This
reverend prelate was much beloved, not only by those of his own church,
but by the community generally. He died at
Page 91
Lynchburg, in November, 1841, while in the performance of his episcopal
duties, at the age of seventy-nine.
One of the few residences on L, now Leigh, between Seventh and Eighth
streets, was that of the Southall family, a name then and now conspicuous.
Their successor on Leigh street was Patrick Gibson, a respectable
merchant, connected in business with a nephew of Mr. Jefferson. Of late
years, Mr. Mills has been the proprietor of these extensive grounds.
I must insert a few omissions which I discover in my Shocco Hill rambles.
The Powhatan House, opposite to the City Hall, is an extension and
elevation of the former residence, store and strong-hold of Wright
Southgate, once an officer in the British navy. A very high wall,
protected against escalade by a capping of broken glass, enclosed the
grounds, and each opening on the ground floor was secured by chains,
bolts, bars and bells. Two of his nephews were among the most respectable
and enterprising merchants in Norfolk, and one of his sons, sent penniless
from home, attained to eminence and great wealth in Kentucky.
Adjoining this castle was the cottage of a worthy old couple, Jacob Cohen
and his wife,
Page 92
whose residence dates back some twenty years in the last century. Their
cottage is supplanted by the handsome block of dwellings erected by Mr.
Jaquelin Taylor.
Opposite to this, on Twelfth street, was the residence of Mr. Samuel Myers
(lately embellished by Mr. Crump), and of his neighbor, Mr. Wiseham, of
hospitable memory, now substituted by Mr. Morson's three fine dwellings.
On the theatre square, north of Mr. Myers', and built after the model of
his, were the residences of Mr. Prosser and Mr. Moncure, partners in an
extensive auction business. One of these is now "the Carleton House." Mr.
Myers' son has introduced a different style of architecture, and an
improved one, in his dwelling adjoining the paternal homestead.
On the lot where the First Baptist Church stands, and adjoining the
residence in old times, of Charles Copland, attorney, James Heron, a
retired merchant and worthy citizen, was preparing to erect a comfortable
residence for his old age, and commenced by building a capacious kitchen.
But just as the walls were erected, he, by the imprudent exercise of a
close inspection, met with a fall which proved fatal. The kitchen,
converted into a dwelling,
Page 93
was long occupied by his family, and by John G. Blair, who married one of
the daughters.
The square on the south side of Franklin, between First and Second
streets, was the residence of Charles Ellis, of the long existing firm of
Ellis & Allan, worthy members of our community for nearly half a century.
This unpretending residence, now overtopped by those around, is still
occupied by his family. The square opposite to it was Mr. Ellis's garden,
embellished by a row of fine Linden trees along its front. Most of the
Lindens have disappeared, but have given their name to the square, now
built up with fine residences. A few of the trees have survived the
trimming process, their scarred trunks almost bereft of branches and of
beauty. If there are "tongues in trees," as the great poet imagined, each
limb would cry aloud "against the deep damnation of its taking off." Those
who wantonly or tastelessly mutilate trees can have neither poetry nor
"music in their souls, and are fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
This is a general plea in favor of the groves, not a special one in the
case before us. But if the Lindens have disappeared, the square can now
boast of superior attractions, in beauties of a more animated nature; and
these, while yet
Page 94
in bloom, will doubtless be severed from the parent stem, but not like the
Lindens, to disappear, both root and branch.
I fear that my readers will think I am imposing on them an antiquated
directory, in which they feel as little interest as in any similar
compilations; but I trust that some of the survivors may be willing to
take a retrospect of the homes of their parents and more remote ancestors,
and of others who conferred distinction on our metropolis. I will
therefore venture to continue the subject--indeed, I must do so, in
justice to some memorable personages whom I have omitted as yet to
mention. Among these is Albert Gallatin, the distinguished financier and
statesman. He came to Richmond a young man, entrusted with the recovery of
some claims, and although he could with difficulty express himself in
English, his talents were very soon discovered by Patrick Henry and others.
I will venture to relate an anecdote which I have heard concerning Mr.
Gallatin, though I cannot vouch for its authenticity. When he came to
Richmond, he boarded in the house of Mrs. Allegre, to whose daughter he
became attached, and he asked the mother to sanction his addresses. The
old lady was quite wroth
Page 95
at his presumption, and seizing a spit, threatened to transfix and baste
him, if he dare aspire to her daughter! She must have relented however,
for the marriage took place and I hope the indignant old lady lived to see
her son-in-law a member of Congress, Secretary of the Treasury, and
Minister Pleni-potentiary.
It is said that Mr. Gallatin consulted Mr. Marshall (afterwards Chief
Justice) about studying the law, but was advised to turn his attention to
statesmanship and finance. The result proved his correct estimate of Mr.
Gallatin's talents.
The taste of Mr. Gallatin, a native of Switzerland, would naturally prefer
a hilly to a level surface, and he occupied a residence on a square
between Leigh and Clay, and Seventh and Eighth streets, through which runs
a deep ravine, or valley rather, for its slopes are well wooded with
native growths and retain the wild aspect of nature. This house was
erected by a French gentleman, and was rendered singular in appearance by
its tall, round chimneys. It was afterwards the residence of Dr. McCaw, a
gentleman whom I have elsewhere spoken of, and to him succeeded Mr. Conway
Robinson, who has erected a new dwelling on
Page 96
the same square, which retains its wild, natural aspect; but Mr.
Gallatin's house can no longer be recognized, being divested of all its
original features.
In my progress down Fifth street, I omitted to mention the former
residence of Major Gibbon, an officer of the Revolution, and distinguished
early in life as a leader of one section of the forlorn hope at Stony
Point, in 1779. He was for many years Collector of Customs for the port of
Richmond, and resided at the corner of Main and Fifth streets. His
inclosure embraced the ground now occupied by the Second Presbyterian
Church and by private residences up to Franklin street.
Another extensive domicil in the same neighborhood, is opposite to Major
Gibbon's, on the south side of Main street. As the property of David Meade
Randolph it embraced the entire square, on part of which stands the Second
Baptist Church, several handsome dwellings and the extensive carpenter-
shops of the industrious brothers, Gibson.
Mr. Randolph was Marshal of Virginia until the election of Mr. Jefferson,
and being one of those federal office-holders who would "neither die nor
resign," the only alternative was to remove him. A gentleman, whose
Page 97
propensity for discovering and conferring names was one of his
characteristics--Mr. E. W. Rootes--dubbed the Randolph establishment
Moldavia, after Molly and David, its mistress and master. Mrs. Randolph
was one of the remarkable and distinguished persons of her day. When her
husband was deprived of the office of Marshal, he found it necessary to
sell his house and to retrench his establishment, which had not probably
been an economical one. Mrs. R., who lacked neither energy nor industry,
determined to open a boarding-house, feeling assured that those who had,
in her prosperity, partaken of her hospitality, would second her exertions
when in adversity. The friend who had named Moldavia, now conferred on her
the title of Queen, and aided in enlisting subjects for her new realm.
This was on Carey street (a name which she conferred), in a house which
now constitutes a small portion of the Columbian Hotel. It was then a
quiet spot, with very few houses in its immediate vicinity. The Queen soon
attracted as many subjects as her dominions could accommodate, and a loyal
set they generally were. There were few more festive boards than the
Queen's. Wit, humor and good-fellowship prevailed, but excess
Page 98
rarely. Social evenings were also enjoyed, and discord never intruded. In
the course of a few years, noise and dust interfered with the royal
comfort, and the throne and its supporters were transferred to a mere
pleasant palace, where they remained until the abdication of the sovereign.
Moldavia passed into the possession of Mr. Gallego, the great miller,
whose name and flour are known to bakers all over the civilized world, and
some portion of the semi-barbarous. After Mr. Gallego's death, the worthy
Scotch merchant John Allan, commonly called Jock, to distinguish him from
his Irish and English namesakes, became Elector of Moldavia, and his
successors retain the territory in its contracted boundaries. It was to
Mr. Allan that the poet, Edgar Allan Poe, an orphan, was indebted for his
education--and might have been for his promotion.
The square immediately above, and west of the Queen's ancient dominions on
Carey street, now covered with blocks of warehouses, was occupied by
Andrew Ronald, a native of Scotland and an eminent lawyer, who was one of
the counsel opposed to Patrick Henry in 1791, in the great suit arising
from the confiscation of British debts during the war of the Revolution.
Page 99
Mr. Ronald's dwelling fronted the basin, or rather where the basin now is,
and his garden was separated from Shocco Warehouse by the street and an
open space between them. The present aspect of the place is any thing but
quiet and retired.
South from Mr. Ronald and beyond a deep ravine which the supplementary
Gallego mills are now partly filling up, on the summit of a cliff
overhanging the river and overlooking Haxall's mills, stands a wooden
building, the former residence of the celebrated David Ross, the original
owner of the mill, a Scotch merchant anterior to the Revolution. He became
the possessor of most valuable lands and mines in various parts of
Virginia, when Virginia was bounded by the Mississippi, and some of his
descendants now reside, I believe, on a portion of his territories in the
western regions, no longer in the Old Dominion. Mr. Ross was remarkable
for his unerring judgment of the talents of others.
I must travel beyond the former limits of the city to mention a territory
now partly included in them. I mean the lands and former residence of a
most worthy citizen and enterprising merchant, the late Mr. Thomas
Rutherfoord. The inclosure originally attached
Page 100
to his dwelling embraced what now constitutes several squares, and his
possessions beyond it were very many acres. I have heard that he became
possessed of this extensive territory by the judicious investment of a
thousand pounds, given to him as a wedding present by an uncle in
Scotland, on the occasion of his marriage.
He furnished building-lots to various gentlemen, thus forming a good
neighborhood around him, and I can recall, among those who first
constituted it, the names of James Penn, John A. Chevallie, Thomas Wilson
(mayor), David Bullock, William Price, Carter B. Page, and Robert
Gwathmey; and in later years, General Pegram, President of the Virginia
Bank, and that eminent lawyer and excellent man Samuel Taylor, both
victims to casualties. I may also name G. W. Munford, Secretary of the
Commonwealth, and J. R. Anderson, of iron fame, truly a man of metal,
whose locomotives run on many a Southern and Western road, and whose
cannon serve to arm our ships and forts. Mr. Rutherfoord's sons have
clustered around the paternal mansion, which was partially destroyed by
fire while in the occupancy of John Y. Mason, now Minster to France, who
became the purchaser
Page 101
and embellisher of it, but by a subsequent sale it has reverted to the
eldest of the Rutherfoord family.
The name of John A. Chevallie has only been mentioned incidentally, but it
merits a more special notice. He was a gentleman of the most scrupulous
politeness, of fine literary attainments, and of extensive and varied
information. He was brought up in the ante-revolutionary days of French
society, and his manners conformed to it. He came to this country as agent
for the Count Beaumarchais, who had, either as a secret agent of Louis
XVI., or at his own outlay, furnished a large quantity of arms to the
United States during the Revolutionary war. After many years of constant
exertion, he succeeded in his object at last, if my memory serves.
The house of Mr. and Mrs. Chevallie, (a daughter of Judge Lyons) was the
home of hospitality and cheerfulness, and a favorite resort of old and
young. Previous to their residence near Mr. Rutherfoord, they occupied the
house of John Hopkins, Commissioner of Loans, on Broad street corner of
Seventh, now demolished, but then embowered in fine elms and sycamores.
I heard this anecdote from Mr. Chevallie,
Page 102
among many others:--Count Beaumarchais, although an elegant courtier, had
been a watchmaker, and of course was not of the old nobility. One of these
sought to mortify him in a public assembly, by handing an elegant watch to
him, saying it did not keep time, and he wished Beaumarchais to see what
was amiss; who, taking it in his hands and attempting to open it, let it
fall on the floor. He then expressed his regret, adding, that he had been
so long out of practice he had become awkward, and bowing politely, he
retired.
I must trespass on the patience of my readers a few moments longer, to
mention the residences of some old citizens on Church Hill, &c., which
should not be overlooked in story, as they cannot be in eminence of
locality.
The Adams family, the original proprietors of the eastern portion of the
city, occupied several of the squares in their own domain. The three
brothers, Richard, Samuel and John, who resided there fifty or sixty years
ago, but lived at a later period, have long since gone to their last
homes, near to their first; but those they occupied in life have been
improved in appearance under tasteful residents, as has that
Page 103
of their distinguished neighbor and cotemporary, William Marshall, a
brother of the Chief Justice and a lawyer of almost as great talent, which
was partially obscured by his indolence.
Innis, an eminent lawyer, married a Miss Adams, and emigrated to Kentucky
in its early days.
George Nicolson, once mayor of the city (as was also Dr. John Adams),
resided on one of the adjacent and most commanding heights overlooking the
city and the surrounding country. The land west of it and south of Mr.
Marshall's, embracing the slope of the hill, has recently been purchased
by the city for a public square. Mr. Nicolson's residence was destroyed by
fire some years ago. His descendants are among our worthy citizens.
On Main street, near the foot of Church Hill, stood in old times and until
lately, the residence of Friend Couch--a neat house, with a large garden
attached. In my younger days this square was shaded on two sides by a
number of spreading elms, the only row of trees on a mile of street. It
was like an oasis in a desert, and furnished a refreshing shade to the
pedestrian on a hot summer day--of which I can speak from experience. It
was said that there were attractions also within the walls,
Page 104
but these it was never my good fortune to enter. The house, the elms, the
spacious garden with its flowers and bee-hives, have all disappeared; even
the soil itself on which they stood, has been deeply excavated, to furnish
bricks for the erection of other structures. But some of the former
occupants who cultivated those flowers, still flourish, if not in immortal
youth, in ripened years, engaged in the cultivation of social and
benevolent avocations.
John Foster, a useful public servant, was one of their nearest neighbors;
his residence yet stands, partially restored from the dilapidations of
time and fire. John Strobia, a worthy father of a worthy and yet surviving
son, Friend Clarke, and Col. David Lambert, father of the late mayor, were
also their neighbors, but more remote. Their residences may yet be traced,
and also some of their descendants, in other parts of the city.
A short distance east of where Seabrook Warehouse is built, was the
pleasant and rural-looking residence of Adam Craig, Clerk of the Hustings
Court. The green slope in rear of the house was washed at its base by a
clear rivulet, which now flows, mixed with less pure waters, through a
culvert to Shockoe
Page 105
creek. The Clerk's office was in a very small Dutch-roofed house, at a
corner of the lot on Grace and Nineteenth streets. Here Andrew Stevenson
took his first lessons in legal lore. Robert Stanard, his cotemporary,
married a daughter of Mr. Craig.
The ascent of Church Hill in old times, and even lately, could be attained
by carriages on only one route--the road from Main street directly to the
church-yard--and even this was "a hard road to travel," especially by
funeral processions. The first time that I ascended it was on the solemn
occasion of a funeral pageant, a few days after the death of Washington,
when with other lads I followed at the close. Small as the population of
the city then was, I doubt if a funeral procession of greater length has
extended along the street than on that occasion, except at the funeral of
Washington's friend and biographer, Judge Marshall, many years after.
Richmond in by-gone days - End of Part 2
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