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Intro
Chapt I-V
VI-XI
XII-XIV
XV-XVIII
XIX
XX-XXI
Appendis
 

Life in Old Virginia - Chapters XV-XVIII



CHAPTER XV. SECESSION AND CIVIL WAR

The secession of the slave holding States was the means of settling the 
fate of the negro slave in America.

The writer will not discuss the wisdom, or the folly of secession, but 
mentions it as one of the great events in the history of Virginia, and 
will dismiss this question with the statement that the right of separation 
or secession of States from the Union was not first suggested by the 
people of the States which exercised the right of secession.

The first public, distinct avowal of disunion was made upon the floor of 
the United States House of Representatives, by Josiah Quincy, a 
distinguished member of that body from Boston, Massachusetts, who, in 
opposition to the "Louisiana Purchase," said:

"I declare it as my deliberate opinion that, if the bill passes, the bonds 
of this Union are virtually dissolved; that the States which compose it 
are free from their moral obligations; and that, as it will be the right 
of all, so will it be the duty of some, to prepare definitely for a 
separation amicably, if they cams, violently, if they must."

Had Massachusetts followed the advice of this famous leader, perhaps 
history would have to record how the troops of Virginia fought to beep 
Massachusetts in the Union.

During the war with Great Britain, 1812-15, some of the most ardent 
Federalists of New England advocated secession at the convention held by 
them at Hartford, Connecticut.

On December 20, 1860, the people of South Carolina passed an Ordinance of 
Secession in the following words:

"We the people of the State of South Carolina, in convention assembled, do 
declare and ordain, and it is hereby declared and ordained, that the 
Ordinance adopted by us in Convention, on the twenty-third day of May, in 
the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight, whereby 
the Constitution of the United States was ratified, and all Acts and parts 
of Acts of the General Assembly of the State, ratifying Amendments of the 
said Constitution, are hereby repealed, and the Union now subsisting 
between South Carolina and other States, under the name of the United 
States of America is hereby dissolved."

Other Southern States seceded in the following order: 

(1) Mississippi, January 9, 1861 (2) Florida, January 10, 1861  
(3) Alabama, January 11, 1861 (4) Georgia, January 19,1861  
(5) Louisiana, January 26, 1861 (6) Texas, February 1, 1861  
(7) Virginia, April 17, 1861 (8) Arkansas, May 6, 1861  
(9) Tennessee, May 7, 1861 (10) No. Carolina, May 20, 1861  

The six first named States, along with South Carolina, sent delegates to a 
convention which met at Montgomery, Alabama, on February 4, 1861, to form 
the "Confederate States of America."

Following close upon secession, came the war for the preservation of the 
Union. Both adherents to the contest were terribly in earnest to defend 
their views, and during four weary years, death and destruction through a 
civil war stalked defiantly throughout this hitherto peaceful brotherhood 
of States.

Men differed upon this great subject, and because of this difference of 
opinion, the friendships born of the same hearthstone, and cemented by the 
nearest and dearest ties of kindred, were torn asunder and cast aside that 
man's most violent passions might have full sway.

Lay down the axe, fling by the spade,
Leave in its tracks the toiling plow;
The rifle and the bayonet blade
For arms like yours were fitter now.

When President Lincoln made an attempt to re-enforce Fort Sumter the 
people of the South on April 12, attacked the fort. This was the real 
beginning of the war.

The first shot at Fort Sumter, was fired from Cummings Point, Morris 
Island, by Edmund Ruffin, a Tidewater Virginian, then about seventy years 
of age. He was born in Isle of Wight County, Virginia. He implored this 
privilege, and was assigned to duty in the Palmetto Guards.

The firing upon Fort Sumter was accepted as the first hosthe engagement 
between the forces of the Confederacy and the Federal Government. Sumter 
was evacuated by the Federal forces on April 14, 1861. On the following 
day, April 15, 1861, President Lincoln issued a call upon the several 
States for their quota of militia to aid in maintaining the National 
Union. This call of President Lincoln precipitated action on the part of 
Virginia, and two days thereafter, on April 17, 1861, an Ordinance of 
Secession was passed. The Governor, John Letcher, thereupon issued a 
proclamation announcing the accession of Virginia to the Confederacy. 
Immediately after this, a military league was formed of the people of 
Virginia with the "Confederate States of the South." By this treaty, the 
latter were bound to march to the aid of Virginia against the invasion of 
the Federal Government.

The first Federal troops to reach the Federal Capital, Washington, D. C., 
in response to President Lincoln's call, were five companies of 
Pennsylvanians, composed of five hundred and thirty troops, from 
Pottsville, Reading, Lewistown, and Allentown. They reached Washington on 
the evening of April 18, 1861. The writer, then a lad of seventeen years 
of age, a runaway from school, was one of the five hundred and thirty 
troops above referred to.

On the evening of April 18, 1861, the five hundred and thirty 
Pennsylvanians reached Washington from Harrisburg, Pa., by way of 
Baltimore City, and camped in the Capitol Building, that same evening, 
occupying both the Senate and House of Representatives chambers. They were 
accompanied from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, by forty troops of the Regular 
Army, under command of Lieutenant John C. Pemberton, who, upon reaching 
Baltimore, resigned his command at Fort McHenry, went South and 
subsequently was placed in command, as Lieutenant-General, of the 
Confederate Army at Vicksburg, Mississippi, where it was the fortune of 
the writer, while with the Federal Army, in July, 1863, to again meet this 
officer.

On the evening of April 19, 1861, the 6th Massachusetts volunteers also 
reached Washington City. In passing through Baltimore City, Maryland, 
several of the Massachusetts men were killed.

The Pennsylvania and Massachusetts troops, above mentioned, were the only 
Federal soldiers in the city of Washington until April 25, 1861, when the 
7th Regiment New York volunteers arrived there by way of Annapolis, as all 
the railroad bridges had been burned, and all the telegraph lines leading 
into Washington had been cut, thus completely isolating that city with 
less than two thousand Federal troops to guard it.

Had Virginia been active following the Ordinance of Secession, passed by 
her Legislature on the 17th of April. 1861, her troops could have entered 
and taken possession of Washington City, as there were no Federal troops 
there until the evening of April 18th, 1861, except a corporal's guard of 
regulars, and a small quota of District militia to oppose, and less than 
two thousand Federal troops there until the evening of April 25, 1861.

The "Richmond Enquirer" of April 23, 1861, said: "The capture of 
Washington City is perfectly within the power of Virginia and Maryland, if 
Virginia will only make the proper effort by her constituted authorities."

At midnight, on May 23, 1861, the first Federal troops to invade the State 
crossed to Virginia by way of Aqueduct Bridge, at Georgetown, D. C., near 
the head of tidewater. There were three columns, each to cross the Potomac 
River into Virginia at different points; they moved almost simultaneously. 
The one by way of Aqueduct Bridge, which was the first to reach Virginia, 
was commanded by General Irwin McDowell. As it advanced to the Virginia 
end of the bridge, they forced the State pickets to retire. The second 
column crossed at the Long Bridge, from Washington City; the third column, 
destined for Alexandria City, embarked on two schooners from the Eastern 
Branch, a tributary of the Potomac which enters that river on the southern 
part of Washington City.

This last column, which embarked on the two schooners, was composed of the 
New York Fire Zouave Regiment, under Col. E. E. Ellsworth. Through the 
coming of Ellsworth to Alexandria was shed the first blood of the men of 
the North and the men of the South, during the Civil War, upon the soil of 
Tidewater Virginia. Upon entering Alexandria, Ellsworth seeing a 
Confederate flag floated from the "Marshall House," on King Street, went 
in person and took it down, and when deseending a staircase with it, he 
was shot and killed by Jackson, the proprietor of the hotel. The killing 
of Ellsworth was followed by the immediate killing of Jackson by one of 
Ellsworth's soldiers. Jackson was not an enlisted man.

Alexandria City was taken by the Federal army without battle, other than a 
few stray shots from the Virginia sentries as they retired before the 
advance of the Federal forces.

The first battle fought upon the land, during the Civil War, was at Big 
Bethel, York County, in "The Peninsula" division of Tidewater Virginia, on 
June 10, 1861; and the first soldier of the Confederate army killed during 
the War in a land battle, was Henry Lawson Wyatt, a private of Company K, 
First North Carolina Regiment of Volunteers, at Big Bethel, on the date 
above named. Major Theodore Winthrop, of Massachusetts, Aide and Military 
Secretary to Gen. B. F. Butler, was the first Federal soldier shot in this 
battle. He was killed by a shot from a North Carolina drummer boy as he 
climbed on a stump to reconnoiter. It is said of him that "the first 
suggestion of arming the black man in this war came from Theodore 
Winthrop."

Thus began the battling of the Civil War within "The Peninsula" section, 
and almost within sight of the spot where the first colony seated to form 
the nucleus of this mighty nation. This early battle ground, where 
brothers of the one Nation first fought each other to the death, during 
the Civil War, was made sacred by the early pioneers of a new 
civilization, through their suffering of famine and disease, and through 
their struggles with the wild men, and the wild beasts of a new world, and 
through their own hardships and labors, they brought forth a garden spot 
from a wilderness of forest and swamp, in the hopes that their offspring 
might dwell therein in peace, and thrive therein in plenty.

Virginia at once became tire chief State in the Confederacy, and its 
principal battle ground during the entire war. All parts of the State are 
dotted throughout with the sites of battle fields, excepting the two 
counties of the "Eastern Shore" peninsula which, during the whole war, 
were in the possession of the Federal forces.

It is said to be manifestly impossible to secure absolutely correct 
statistics of the Civil War which continued for four years, from 1861 to 
1865. 

The Adjutant General's office gives the following statistics of the Civil 
War: The statistics for the Confederate troops are only partially given. 
Federal troops killed in battle, 67,058; died of wounds, 43,012; died of 
disease, 199,720; other causes, such as accidents, murder, in Confederate 
prisons, etc., 40,154. Total, 343,944. Deserted, 199,105.

Confederate troops who died of wounds or disease (partial statement), 133,
831; deserted (partial statement), 104,428. Number of Federal troops 
captured during the War, 212,608; Confederate troops captured during the 
War, 4'i6,169; Number Federal troops paroled on the field, 16,431; 
Confederate troops paroled on the field, 248,599 ; number of Federal 
troops who died while prisoners, 30,156; Confederate troops who died while 
prisoners, 30,153, a difference only of three men in a total, 60,309.

Aggregate number of men credited in the several calls for troops, and put. 
into the service in the Federal Army, Navy and Marine Corps, from the 
first call of President Lincoln, April 15, 1561, to April 14, 1865, was 2,
656,553.

The total number of men put into the service in the Confederate States 
cannot be definitely ascertained. It is estimated between 700,000 and 1,
000,000.

There were mustered out of the Federal Service in 1865, when the war 
closed, 786,000 officers and men.

There were 1,882 battles fought, being an average of more than one battle 
for each day of the entire war. About one-half of these were fought in 
Virginia. Of this number, in 112 battles, there were more than 500 men 
billed in each battle. The killed in battle would average more than 
fourteen hundred men in each month of the war, from its beginning to the 
close.

It is estimated that the cost of the Civil War, to the North and the 
South, irrespective of the money value of the slaves, was in expenditure 
of money, loss of property, etc., about eleven billions of dollars.

The Revolutionary War cost $130,193,703, and 30,000 American soldiers' 
lives.

The War of 1812 cost $107,150,000, and 2,000 American lives. 

The Mexican War cost $74,000,000, and 2,000 American lives.

Indian wars and other minor wars cost $1,000,000,000, and 49,000 American 
lives.

The eastern portion of Tidewater Virginia, bordering on the Potomac River, 
the Chesapeake Bay, and the lower James River, was in possession of and 
within the lines of the Federal armies early in the war.

The inland portions of Tidewater Virginia were the scenes of many 
desperate conflicts between the Federal and Confederate forces.



CHAPTER XVI. THE NEGRO AND HIS FORMER MASTER

It is not the purpose of the writer to record in detail the history of 
emancipation. Before the Civil War, the question of the extension of 
slavery was warmly discussed and its boundaries in part were settled by a 
compromise, known as the Missouri Compromise, and the question of 
manumitting the slaves was also earnestly discussed by men of the South, 
many of whom were prominent and influential in state and nation. Among 
these men was Thomas Jefferson, who earnestly advocated the emancipation 
of slaves by the State of Virginia. His plan was to provide by law that 
all children born after a certain date were to be free, though their 
parents might be slaves. This was the plan pursued by some of the Northern 
States. Many other prominent men in the South felt as did Jefferson, that 
at some day the States should provide for emancipation. Following the Nat 
Turner insurrection, the sentiment for emancipation of the slaves grew 
greatly. Some proposed to colonize the negroes, and societies composed of 
the best people were formed in all parts of the State for this purpose. 
The question of setting free all the slaves was warmly debated in the 
Legislature of Virginia and a bill to abolish slavery was offered and was 
defeated in the lower house by a small majority. The fact that many 
prominent men must have favored emancipation is proven by the large number 
of "free negroes" resident in the Southern States in 1860, who were either 
ex-slaves or their descendants, notwithstanding the laws to the contrary 
which provided for their removal when freed.


Number of Slaves and Free Colored in the United States in 1790 and in 1860.

                      The First and Last Census of the Slaves.

                      CENSUS OF 1790            CENSUS OF 1860
State              Slaves   Free Colored    Slaves    Free Colored
Alabama                                     435,080   2,690
Arkansas                                    111,115     144
Connecticut         2,764   3,899                     8,627
Delaware            8,887   3,899             1,798  19,829
Florida                                      61,745     932
Georgia            29,264     308           462,198   3,500
Kansas                                            2*    625
Kentucky           12,430     114           225,485  10,684
Louisiana                 331,726            18,647
Maryland          103,036   8,043            87,189  83,942
Mississippi                                 436,631     773
Missouri                                    114,931   3,572
Nebraska                                         15*     67
New Hampshire         158     630                       494
New Jersey         11,423   2,762                18* 25,318
New York           21,324   4,654                    49,005
North Carolina     10,057  24,975           331,059  30,463
Pennsylvania       31,737   6,537                    56,942
Rhode Island          948   3,407                     3,959
South Carolina    107,094   1,801           402,406   9,914
Tennessee           3,417     361           275,719   7,309
Texas                                       182,560     355
Virginia          292,627  12,866           490,865  58,042
District of Columbia                          3,185  11,131
Utah Territory                                   29*     30
Totals            697,681  50,447         3,953,760 406,985

The above table includes all the slaves in the United States as enumerated 
by the United States Census, during the years 1790 and 1860, respectively, 
and the free colored only in the States in which slaves were enumerated 
during one or both of the census years above named. This table indicates a 
large increase of free colored in the respective slave-holding States 
between the years 1790 and 1860, notwithstanding the fact that very many 
of the slaves upon being freed, removed to the non-slave holding States. 
The States marked with a star, in the Census of 1860, were non-slave 
holding. The slaves enumerated therein happened to be there with their 
masters at the time the census was taken, except in the case of New 
Jersey, where they were "colored apprentices for life," by the act to 
abolish slavery, passed by New Jersey, April 18, 1804.

In 1790, slaves were held in every one of the seventeen States then in the 
Union, excepting Maine, Massachusetts, and Vermont. History accredits New 
England Rum, Yankee Skippers, and English Captains of ships with supplying 
the slave markets of America until suppressed by law.

The total cost of the Civil War was a sum more than equal to the payment 
of $2,000 for every slave, male and female, old and young, in the United 
States in the year 1860.

Before the Civil War was far advanced, the question of granting freedom to 
the slaves was first brought to the attention of the Federal Government 
through the practice by many of the commanding officers of the Federal 
army returning captured fugitive slaves to their owners.

On July 9, 1861, a resolution was passed by Congress that it was "no part 
of the duty of soldiers of the United States to capture and return 
fugitive slaves."

On August 10, 1862, a joint resolution was passed by the Federal Congress 
"That the government cooperate with any State whose inhabitants might 
adopt measures for emancipation and should give to such State pecuniary 
aid, to be used by it, at its discretion, to compensate it for the 
inconvenience, public and private produced by sack change of system."

On February 3, 1865, a peace commission from the Confederate States met on 
beard a steamer anchored in Hampton Roads, Virginia, at which were present 
Alexander Stephens, R. M. T. Hunter and J. A. Campbell, of the Confederate 
aide, and President Lincoln, and Secretary of State, Seward, on the 
Federal side. At this conference, it is said that President Lincoln made 
the following remarks to Mr. Stephens: "Your people might after all, get 
$400,000,000 for the slaves, and you would be surprised if I should call 
the names of some of those who favor such a proposition."

On September 22, 1862, President Lincoln issued a preliminary proclamation 
of emancipation. He then declared that on the first day of January next 
ensuing, the slaves within every State, or designated part of a State, the 
people whereof should then be in rebellion, should be declared "thence 
forward and forever free." He also declared that any State in which 
"rebellion" had existed that should have in Congress at that time-January 
1, 1863 representatives chosen in good faith, at a legal election by the 
qualified voters of such State should be exempted from the operations of 
the proclamation.

On January 1, 1863, the issued a Proclamation of Emancipation, designating 
the States and parts of States wherein the people were in rebellion, and 
among the places excepted from the operations of this proclamation were 
the following counties and cities of Tidewater Virginia: "Accomac, 
Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Princess Anne, and Norfolk, including 
the cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth, and which excepted parts are, for 
the present, left precisely as if this proclamation were not issued." This 
proclamation did not interfere with the slaves within the territory above 
named, neither did it interfere with the slave States outside the 
Confederacy, viz: Delaware, Maryland, Kentucky, and Missouri. Slavery was 
abolished in the District of Columbia by bill approved April 16, 1862.

Freedom was extended to all slaves within the United States and 
Territories by Article XIII, section 2, of the Amendment to the United 
States Constitution. The amendment was proposed at the second session of 
the 38th Congress, passing the Senate April 8, 1864, and the House January 
81, 1865. It was officially announced to the country December 18, 1865, 
that it had been ratified by three-fourths of the States, and was 
therefore a part of the supreme law of the land.

Freedom was accepted by the negroes according to their natural 
temperament. Some of then were loud and demonstrative in their joys. Such 
was "Aunt Dorcas," a portly, dark yellow woman, whose former master and 
mistress were extremely lenient and kind to their servants. Her mistress 
died many years preceding the Civil War and her master died a short while 
after the war began, and his estate being in an unsettled condition, "Aunt 
Dorcas," together with the other servants, were deeply concerned as to 
whose hands they might fall into, and greatly relieved when the war ended 
with their freedom. She was the principal servant about the house, and 
recognizing her responsibilities, she refused to take advantage of the 
many opportunities offered here to escape to freedom; thus she remained 
true to the last. After the war she settled at the Court House village, 
and made her living by laundry work for its inhabitants. That she was 
anxious and grateful for her freedom, was manifest in her actions during 
the first two or three years following her entry into the village. When 
the spirit moved her-at intervals of two or three times a week-she would 
walk into the middle of the public road, raise here eyes and her hands 
Heavenward and cry out in loud, beseeching tones: "Th-aank Je-e-sus I'se 
free-e! Ya-a-s my Je-eus I'se free-e!" after which she would go into her 
house, get her laundry basket and collect her day's work from the white 
residents of the village. Such was the innate good manners of the white 
residents of this village-both old and young-that "Aunt Dorcas" was never 
disturbed, by act or voice, while in her moods of rejoicing. The whites 
were civil in their manner towards the negroes, and the negroes were also 
civil to the whites.

"A soft answer turneth away wrath;
But grievous words stir up anger."

Very many of the negroes made no demonstration whatever to indicate their 
feelings upon the subject of freedom, but went about stolidly as before 
without change of manners or conduct.

The elderly negroes were somewhat dazed by their freedom, and were at a 
loss to determine its full scope. Owing to rumors of repeated bondage, 
which were idly circulated by the thoughtless, some of these old servants 
were shy of remaining upon the old homestead to which their former master 
and mistress had kindly invited them and hospitably offered a shelter for 
life. Some of them after accepting these hospitable offers, would suddenly 
leave their homes as if to determine fully their freedom. Very often this 
sudden determination to make a change was brought about by the twitting of 
others of their race in charging them with yet belonging to their former 
owners. Especially was this the case where the servants continued to 
address the former master or mistress in the courteous manner of their 
former bondage, as "Marster," or "Missus," but notwithstanding these 
upbraidings of the younger ones, many of these old servants continued this 
courteous manner of salutation for several years after their freedom, and 
finally the appellation "Boss" was substituted for "Marster" and "Mam" for 
"Missus."

When the Civil War ended and emancipation of the slave became a fact 
throughout the whole United States, both the former master, and his former 
servant, were met with new problems in the labor market. From the position 
of absolute owner and master of his laborers to that of landlord only, and 
from absolute bandage-without cares or responsibilities-to that of a 
freeman, with all its perplexities and responsibilities, were the 
conditions forced upon the white man, and the negro of the Southern 
States, without a personal experience for either to guide then. The 
majority of the masters never before had occasion to rent their lands, or 
to use any labor outside of what they owned, except perhaps, for some high 
grade mechanical work. The slave and his family were cared for by the 
owner, whether the servant were industrious or indolent, and when he was 
freed, the value of his services were to be measured by his own industry 
and capability. Generations of bonded servitude made the bondsman 
dependent upon others for guidance. He had no occasion to exercise brain 
power, other than in performing his daily set tasks regardless of the 
profits or losses which might follow success or failure.

During the first few years following freedom, it was difficult to induce 
the servants to make binding bargains for a year's services upon the 
plantation, owing to the dread that such promises were binding bargains 
against their liberty. Very many left their homes during the war, and many 
of those who remained, or returned, were undetermined what to do; thus 
there developed a serious uncertainty in the labor market. There was also 
a "spell of idleness" pervading the air which laid its microbe upon young 
and old, as it attacks the school boy who is not well enough to attend his 
school, but is quite hearty enough to spend the idle day in active sports 
with companions of his kind. During these periods of idleness, many of the 
servants would refuse a day's labor with remunerative pay and ample food, 
and instead would prefer to carry a peck of their own corn, worth ten 
cents, to the grist mill, distant perhaps several miles, and while 
hungrily awaiting "their turn" to have it ground into meal, for which one-
eighth was deducted therefrom for "toll;" they would spend the day upon 
the banks of the mill pond, nodding in the sunshine, while they held in 
their land a fishing line baited for "mill pond suckers."

These were trying tines for the farmer who had managed to seed his crops 
upon his lands, and which now needed "laying by"-the finishing furrow to 
the corn crop. Many of those who never before had done a day's labor in 
the field, now took off their coats, and went manfully to work.

It is related that a certain dignified old gentleman, who heretofore had 
an abundance of servants, and therefore unused to labor himself, finding 
his corn fields needed plowing, and unable to obtain labor, determined, 
against the remonstrance of his tender-hearted wife, to "lay- his corn by" 
himself. With this purpose in view, early the following morning, he 
hitched to his plow a young, sprightly mule. About the hour the sun had 
arisen well up in the heavens and heated the atmosphere, owing to the 
quick movements of his young mule, he had made progress enough through the 
tall corn to fatigue him, and warm him, so much that he was compelled to 
shed some of his garments at the end of each corn row. One by one went his 
garments, first his coat, then his vest at the other end of the row, then 
followed his cravat, his collar, his dress shirt, his shoes and socks, and 
his hat-distributed front end to end of the field. Nevertheless the 
perspiration was increasing on his body, notwithstanding he had shed the 
last garment he could with propriety spare therefrom. Deciding to view the 
result of his labors, he mounted the fence, and with mortification and 
disgust, beheld the small space of cornfield which he had so laboriously 
"laid by;" he then glanced over the larger remaining unplowed portion 
which was a greater surprise to him. Upon taking a second glance of the 
unplowed lands, and then viewing the reeking condition of his lone nether 
garment, and his smoking hot mule, he waved his hand in the direction of 
the unplowed field and cried aloud with determined and indignant voice, 
"I'll lay you all by yet, if it kills me."

His anxious wife had sent her only servant, a faithful old black mammy 
cook, to the f field wish a jug of cool, fresh water for the old 
gentleman. The servant reached the cornfield just as he had finished his 
view of the unplowed lands, when he began to heap imprecations upon the 
"lazy niggers," the "Yankees," and "emancipation." Upon her return to her 
mistress she was asked how her master was getting on in his work. "I tells 
you Missus," she replied, "I'se feered of Marster don' loss his mind. He 
don' flung away mos' ev'ry stitch uv his clothes, an' he was rarrin' an' 
pitchin' 'bout de lazy, sorry niggers, de Yankees, an' 'mancipation. It's 
de truff ef evah I tol' it Missus, dat de words of Marster was a sayin' 
was jes' mos' laik of time 'tracted meetin' preachin' as evah I heerd in 
all ma bo'n days."

The problem of labor was finally solved in the majority of instances by 
the owner of the lands "sharing the crops" with the laborer. Under this 
method, a certain part of the crops were to be set aside for the hire of 
the lands, the team, and the implements, and the remainder was to be 
divided between the owner and the tenant. This plan was known as "working 
on shares," and under the conditions prevailing at that date, if probably 
was the better plan, as the owner of the lands was not at that period 
prepared with ready money to hire labor, and the negro was in the same 
condition as to the means to purchase teams, implement, and food to last 
until the crops were harvested.

This arrangement continued for many successive years, and is yet the plan 
followed in many instances.

It is related that there was a certain close-fisted farmer who persuaded a 
negro away from his former master's service by making him the liberal 
offer of one-half of the crop, reserving the other half for the use of the 
lard and team.

After the crop was harvested this old servant was met on the road by his 
former master, and inquiry was made as to how he succeeded in farming on 
such liberal sharing of the crop. "Ice gittin' on mighty slow Boss," said 
he, "I wucked Mistuh C _____'s co'n crap on half char's, an' kaze uv de 
drouf dar war'nt mo' dan half a crap rais', an' Mistuh C_____ he say to me 
dat dar's no use 'sputin' 'bout it, kaze de half crap dat wuz raise mus' 
sholy go fo' de Ian' an' de mules. I don quit 'sputin' wid him, an' I don 
quit wuckin' on sick char's as dat."

Whenever an industrious negro desired to obtain a home of his own, he was 
usually helped by the whites, selling him a portion of their lands upon 
easy terms. By this means many homes have been secured by negroes.

The negro is appreciative of praise for tasks well done. Very few of them 
have the initiative to meet sudden, unexpected emergencies. This may be 
due to their training in days of bondage awaiting instructions or orders 
from others. Many, or repeated instructions, or orders, relative to his 
task are apt to confuse instead of aiding him. The negro is naturally more 
inclined to jollity than to seriousness, and is quick to perceive and 
appreciate the humor of the ridiculous in one of his own race, and upon 
occasions, gives boisterous vent, instead of suppression to his humor.

A negro might hate a slow, shambling gait when at his work, but when he 
danced, there was "nothing slow about him." Nearly every young negro 
dances, and always to lively tunes, whether they are played upon the 
fiddle, banjo, jewsharp, or mouth organ, or if they are "patted" to him, 
he will keep excellent time, and cut more "pigeon wings" than any 
professional minstrel of the present day.

Few whites can equal his performances, and none can surpass him in shaking 
his feet. The following is one of the old time popular "jig" songs.

De hen an' chickens vent to roos' 
De hawk dew don an' bit de goos'
He bit de of hen in de bac'
I do b'lieve dat am a fac',

O Jinnie git yo' hoe cake den' ma dear,
O Jinnie git yo' hoe cake don'.

As I was gwine 'long down de road, 
'Pon a stump dar sot a toad, 
De toad he winked to tadpole's daughter 
An' kicked a big frog in de water.

O Jinnie git yo' hoe cake don' ma dear,
O Jinnie git yo' hoe cake don'.

This was a lively tune, and needed sprightly limbs to keep time to it.

During these later years, the negroes are giving up their singing, 
dancing, wrestling or kicking bouts in public, which were the chief 
pastime of their fathers in the days of slavery and immediately after the 
Civil War.



CHAPTER XVII. COUNTY COURTS IN TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

The origin of government, and of the courts of law from their first 
beginning in Virginia is a lengthy and interesting study for the student 
at law, and because of its voluminous proportions will not be closely 
followed by the writer. It is said that, "as every new law is made to 
remove some inconvenience the State was subject to before the making of 
it, and for which no other method of redress was effectual, the law itself 
is a standing, and the most authentic evidence we can require of the state 
of things previous to it."

From the very beginning of the settlement, and for at least five years 
following, the colonists were but the servants of the London Company who 
transported them to Virginia in its own vessels, and maintained them there 
at its cost. When they reached Virginia they were divided into groups to 
work under the supervision of men chosen to direct them in their labors. 
They were to carry out the orders of the Company "To build and fortify the 
town, to clear and prepare ground for planting, to explore the rivers," 
etc. The advice was: "The way to prosper and achieve good success is to 
make yourselves all of one mind for the good of your country and your 
own."The colony was begun "a kingdom without written laws," and so 
continued until the meeting of the first House of Burgess in 1619. Until 
then they were supposed to be governed by the laws of England, but when 
the three ships conveying the colony weighed anchor and set sail from 
Black= wells, the laws of England like many other home comforts were left 
behind.

From 1607 to 1609 the colony was under the immediate control of a 
president and a council who administered such justice as their wills 
dictated. The great power vested in this first council and president was 
manifest upon the return of Captain John Smith to Jamestown after his 
rescue from death by Pocahontas, in January, 1608. The council then held 
him responsible for the death of his crew by the Indian Chief 
Opechanchanough; for this the council condemned him to die, and but for 
the timely arrival of Capt. Newport from England upon the morning set for 
smith's execution, they would have carried their design into effect.

Until the colony increased red in numbers and expanded in territory, and 
the individual member could lay claim to the products of his own industry, 
there was no need for courts of justice such as now exist, because there 
were neither property nor individual rights to settle.

The colony from its first settlement in 1607, up to the year 1624 was 
under the control of the Virginia Company of London-a proprietary 
government. After that it was a royal government under the control of the 
Crown of England.

In 1609 the Company chose the first governor and lieutenant-governor, who 
superseded the former president; there was also a council. The Company 
continued to appoint governors until the revocation of its charter in 
1621, after which the Executives of Virginia were appointed by the Ding, 
excepting during the period from 1652 to 1660 when they were elected by 
the house of Burgesses. The Council were the governor's advisers in 
executive matters. They constituted the General Court-the Supreme Court of 
the Colony-and were also members of the General Assembly, corresponding to 
the present Senate of the Mate. Sometimes they acted as county lieutenants 
or commanders-in-chief of their county.

The first election for a legislative body on the American Continent was 
held in Virginia, in 1619, when the planters were given a hand in 
governing themselves through the election of Burgesses-the lower house of 
Assembly.

In 1619 Governor Yeardley issued a proclamation in accordance with his 
"general instructions establishing a Commonwealth," known as the "Great 
Charter:" "That all those that were residents at the departure of Sir 
Thos. Dale (April 1616) should be freed and acquitted from such publique 
services and labours which formerly they suffered, and that those cruel 
laws by which we had so long been governed were now abrogated by these 
free laws which his majesties subjects live under in Englande." And that 
they might have a hand in the governing themselves, it was granted that "a 
general assembly should be held yearly once, whereat were to be present 
the Governor and Counsell, with two Burgesses from each Plantation freely 
to be elected by the inhabitants thereof; the Assembly to have power to 
make and ordaine whatsoever laves and orders should by them be thought 
good and profitable for our subsistence."

The exact date of this first election in America is not known; it is 
supposed to have been some time in June, 1619.

In 1619 each town, hundred and plantation was to be incorporated into one 
body corporate (a borough), and each borough had the right to elect two 
Burgesses to the General Assembly, hence their name of Burgesses, from 
Borough.

One of the Burgesses describes this first meeting of the General Assembly 
at Jamestown on July 30, 1619, as follows:

"The most convenient place we could find to set in was the Quire of the 
Church, where fir Geo. Yeardlcy, the Governor, being sort downe in his 
accustomed place, those of the Council of Estate sat nest him on both 
halides, except only the Secretary, then appointed speaker, -who sat right 
before him: John Twine, clerk of the General Assembly, being placed next 
the Speaker; and Thos. Pierce, the serjeant, standing at the bane, to be 
ready for any service the Assembly should command him. All the Burgesses 
took their places in the Quire till a prayer was said by Mr. Bucke, the 
minister, that it would please God to guide and to sanctifie all our 
proceedings to his owne glory and to the good of this Plantation. Prayer 
being ended the Burgesses retired to the body of the church, where they 
were called by order and by name, and so every man (none staggering at it) 
took the oath of Supremacy, and then entered the Assembly. The Council had 
been previously sworn, the first business before the Assembly was to 
decide who were entitled to sit as members. The Speaker, John Pory was one 
of the Council of State."

The General Assembly consisted of the House of Burgesses and the Council 
together with the Governor. They sat as one body until the time of Lord 
Culpeper who brought about the separation of the Council from the 
Burgesses. They all kept their hats on in session in token of authority. 
All the acts of Assembly during the control of the London Company were 
first sent to England for their approval before they became laws. The 
Company lad the power to confirm or annul the acts of the Assembly.

The legislature of Virginia has ever been free from scandal excepting 
during the short period of "Reconstruction," when there were some 
adventurers, known as "carpet buggers," seated in that body. The members 
from the rural districts are chosen from the more intelligent and highly 
respected classes, many of whom are lawyers, or country gentlemen. Such 
men as have no political axes to grind, and who would scornfully refuse to 
turn the "grindstone of legislation" for purposes of sharpening the venal 
tools of others, are the men as a rule, selected for the legislature from 
the county districts.

From its first session to the present day, its membership has had upon its 
rolls the names of men famous as orators, statesmen, and jurists. It has 
often been made the school through which were graduated some of the 
Nation's most distinguished citizens.

County Courts had their origin in 1623 when commanders of plantations 
first held court under Act of Assembly passed in that year, empowering 
them to hold monthly courts in the corporations of Charles City, and 
Elizabeth City. The commanders were styled "judges" of monthly courts. In 
1628, Commissioners succeeded commanders as judges of monthly courts. 
County Courts were first established by Act of Assembly in 1642. The 
jurisdiction of the Court was then further extended to sixteen hundred 
pounds of tobacco, and the monthly courts were to be thereafter called 
"County Courts." By Act of November, 1615, because of the great distance 
of many parts of the colony from James City, where the (quarter Courts 
were held, jurisdiction was given to the County Courts, in all cases of 
law and equity, and trial by jury secured to those who desired it.

In 1661 the office of Justice of the Peace was first named such by Act of 
Assembly. They were originally called Commissioners. The County Courts 
continued under the jurisdiction of justices of the peace until after the 
Civil War. The justices of the peace prior to and during the Civil War, 
were selected from the best citizens of the county-the dignified, educated 
and often wealthy gentlemen.

During Reconstruction days pending the adoption of a new Constitution, the 
old Court System was continued, but the justices were appointed by the 
military officer in charge of the State. Owing to the disfranchisement 
clauses in these acts, which disqualified many of the most intelligent men 
of the State, it was difficult in some neighborhoods to obtain suitably 
intelligent men to fill these offices.

The writer was present at a trial conducted during Reconstruction Days 
before a justice of the peace who received his appointment from General 
Canby, then commanding in Virginia. The case was a trivial assault upon a 
constable, by throwing a bucket of slop water upon his head from a second 
story window as he was about to enter a carriage maker's shop to serve a 
summons. The trial was an amusing instance of ignorance of law by all 
parties engaged in it. The justice before whom the trial was held lived in 
a two-room weather-boarded log house. This dwelling was in the midst of a 
big corn field through which a narrow road led from the main highway.

At the appointed hour all parties interested in the case, together with 
numerous friends of the defendant, presented themselves at the door of the 
justice's dwelling, where it was ascertained that he was "out in the low 
ground a' grubbin' an' burnin' bresh." The party were cordially invited 
into the house and told to "rest your hats upon the bed." The crowd filled 
the small room and overflowed to the threshold upon which two or three 
found a resting place.

The hostess said she would call her husband, and thereupon blew two long 
blasts in a "conch shell horn" which she took from a shelf close to the 
doorway. Soon thereafter the man of law made his appearance with a 
grubbing hoe under his arm, his hat in one hand, and a big, red cotton 
bandanna handkerchief in the other with which he mopped the sweat o f 
honest toil from a bald head. He cordially shook hands with each one-all 
of whom be knew personally-and civilly inquired about the health of their 
families.

This gentleman was a typical poor white man of Tidewater Virginia; an 
honest, industrious, independent, orderly citizen, but totally illiterate, 
and therefore unfitted for the responsible position assigned him. During 
the trial, his opinion was asked in a certain matter of law, and he 
humorously replied: "I don't know much about the book laws. I never went 
to school but two days in my life. It rained like all scissors both days, 
and the teacher didn't come nary day of the two, so I quit wastin' time 
and went to work, and I've been at work ever since. I'll think this thing 
over, an' let ye know,"

He was the owner of a considerable number of acres of poor land which had 
been in the possession of his ancestors for generations and was worked by 
all of these several generations without adding anything to improve the 
soil. He made a living for himself and wife by his own industry and 
frugality, but was too poor to own servants. He took no part in the war, 
and was not an advocate of secession; neither did he hold office before 
the war; therefore he was eligible under the Reconstruction Acts.

The Commonwealth attorney who represented the plaintiff in the case was 
also a military appointee; a native of a western State, fresh from his 
graduating class in a law school, and without knowledge of law other than 
"book larnin'." This was his first case in a "real court of justice:" 
Unfortunately for him, his "law library" consisted of his answer to the 
"Quiz" of the Court before whom he was first licensed, together with a 
copy of "Blackstone's Commentaries," and a book on "Evidence:"

As the weather was warm and pleasant outdoors, and accommodations within 
the house were too limited for the assemblage, it was suggested that the 
trial be held in the shade of a big pine tree that stood nearby and 
adjoining the "worm fence" which enclosed the "cuppen." The top rails were 
withdrawn from the fence and inserted between the lower rails which form 
"the worm" of the several panels, and the crowd was then invited to seat 
themselves upon these rails where they could rest their backs against the 
fence. The justice, in his shirt sleeves, sat himself upon the front board 
of a "steer kyart" which stood under the pine tree. As soon as he steadied 
himself with his feet upon the tongue of the cart, the Court was in 
session and ready for business regardless of a crier.

The case was opened by the young Commonwealth attorney who stated that 
"the assault was made by wilfully and maliciously casting upon the 
garments which the plaintiff then wore, upon his head and body, the 
contents of a "soak bucket," in which a painter used to soak his brushes." 
He declaimed in earnest voice upon the respect due an officer of the law, 
and called upon the constable to exhibit the hat and coat which he wore 
upon the occasion of the assault. The hat--an old time straight sided 
beaver-shoved up like a barber's pole, with alternate streaks of red, 
white and red, and red, white and blue paints upon it. The colors on the 
coat were so closely blended and widely spread about as to unfit that 
garment for future wear.

The defendant was not represented by a loyal attorney, but trusted to his 
assembled friends, one of whom ;vas the brother of the former 
Commonwealth's attorney, and because of this close kinship alone, he was 
accredited with much knowledge of law. He bravely and vigorously 
maintained his suddenly acquired fame as a "horseback lawyer," by 
interrupting and correcting the prosecution as frequently as opportunity 
offered, but his greatest success was made when the young attorney 
proceeded to quote from his copy of "Blackstone." At once objection was 
made to quoting "Blackstone on the laws of Virginia," and the Court was 
told that "everybody in the county knows that Blackstone is no lawyer, but 
only the keeper of a summer resort on Blackstone's Island, up the Potomac 
River, on the Maryland side," and the Court was appealed to for 
confirmation of this fact. To this the justice assented, as he had often 
passed Blackstone's Island in his trips up and down the Potomac while on 
his way to and from town.

The young prosecuting attorney was too much dazed by this unlocked for and 
sudden turn in the case to discover the humor in it, and before he could 
recover his wits and make reply, the attention of the justice was called 
to the fact that his wife was making frantic efforts to drive back six 
young, lively shoats which had broken loose from their pen, and were 
working destruction in the young corn patch. Here was the golden 
opportunity for the defendant and his friends, and after a hasty 
whispering, they suggested to the justice that he adjourn court awhile and 
they would "run the shoats down and pen them." To this proposition he 
thankfully agreed. Fearing that the prosecution might benefit by their 
absence, they appointed one of their number to aid the justice in building 
anew the pig pen, and shedding their coats, they gave chase to the fleety 
shoats. Of all the domestic animals with which man is blessed, or 
distressed, there are none so difficult to catch and hold, as young, 
healthy shoats when loose in a big level field. It is said "they can beat 
a streak of greased lightning in zigzagging," and are as difficult to lay 
hold of as the Irishman's proverbial flea. After repeated trials to corner 
and capture all six shoats at once, the crowd finally centered their chase 
upon one animal at a time, and after numerous upsets, and tumbles over one 
another, and amusing slips of "tail holds," the six shoats were at last 
landed within the pen by the perspiring crowd amid the grateful 
acknowledgments of his honor, the justice, who was not aware of the fact 
that the men had done more damage to the young corn than did the shoats.

As it was then late in the afternoon, and all parties to the trial were 
several miles from their respective homes, it was suggested to the justice 
that the case be postponed until some more convenient date. To this the 
obliging magistrate readily agreed, much to the disgust and annoyance of 
the prosecution, and thus ended one of the trials before a justice of the 
peace during Reconstruction days, in one of the counties of the "Nor thorn 
Neck of Virginia." The young "carpet bag" Commonwealth attorney, when the 
State was readmitted into the Union, returned to his western home, and was 
last heard of as a candidate on the Democratic ticket for Commonwealth 
attorney. The old, obliging "scalawag" justice of the peace has long since 
passed to the Higher Court, and it is yet undecided whether the assault 
was accidental, or with malice aforethought.

After the State was re-admitted, County Judges were elected by the 
legislature. In some instances they had more than one county within their 
jurisdiction. In the year 1904, the system was changed to a meeting once 
in every two months-six courts a year, under the jurisdiction of a Judge 
of the Circuit Court.

The custom of holding court in each county every month was a great 
advantage to the people of Tidewater Virginia. As stated elsewhere, these 
several counties are intersected by numerous rivers, creeks, or coves, 
which extend far into their interiors, and divide the lands into 
peninsulas, great and small. Very few of these streams are crossed by 
bridges, or have regularly kept ferries, and can therefore be crossed only 
at their heads by long detours. Therefore, the county court days, and the 
"Court House Bounds" were most frequently selected as the more convenient 
times and places to meet the many with whom to transact business.

The "Court House Bounds" is usually the largest village of a county, and 
generally contains at least one or two, or more taverns, several stores, 
and blacksmith, wheelright and harness shops. These conveniences, together 
with the business of the court, brought together vast assemblages of the 
inhabitants of the respective counties, and many others from the adjoining 
counties where they were sure to meet neighbors, friends and acquaintances 
from far and near. They came from all directions and in all kinds of 
vehicles, some afoot and many on horseback.

On court days, the "Court House Bounds" looked like a cavalry camp. Many 
of the riders came there with their animals' noonday rations of ten 
bundles of fodder and six ears of corn tied behind their saddle. They 
"hitched" their horses or mules to the fences and "horse racks" in the 
village. In the summer months many of the negroes came to court in their 
bare feet, with their footwear slung over their shoulder, and when within 
sight of the "Bounds" would halt by the roadside and "shoe up."

It was a holiday for the people generally, especially before planting 
time, in the spring, and after the harvests, in the fall. It was 
entertaining to a stranger to see this great assemblage of decent, orderly 
citizens, conducting their several transactions in the most quiet, 
deliberate manner, without show of haste, or nervousness, or disorder. 
Perhaps nowhere else in America could such a sight be witnessed of 
gentlemanly order amongst all classes.

This custom of meeting monthly was in practice from the earliest years of 
the settlement of the respective counties, and therefore was an important, 
time-honored factor in the business life of these people. While the 
business of the Court was being held inside the Court House, the "Court 
green" was occupied by the multitude assembled in small crowds throughout 
the whole village, some of whom were buying or selling their lands, 
timber, and other commodities, paying off old debts, or contracting new 
ones; others with more leisure were discussing important events, or 
telling yarns-humorously denoted as "swapping lies."

Candidates for office met on these occasions and greeted the voters, and 
debated with one another in the Court house, if the business before the 
court was not too urgent to adjourn, and if so, the candidates were 
provided with an improvised platform of dry goods boxes, turkey coops, or 
barrels. Candidates readily accommodate themselves to any emergencies when 
seeking the suffrage of their fellow citizens. The improvised platform was 
not always constructed with due regard to the avoirdupois of the occupant, 
or the tests to which he might put it, and there were numerous instances 
of amusing, though not fatal casualties resulting therefrom. During one of 
the exciting elections, a candidate of heavy weight was making his speech 
from the head of a whiskey barrel, across which was placed a narrow board 
for his safety. In his ardor to impress a certain fact upon his hearers, 
which he emphasized by the statement: "As sure as I stand upon this 
barrel-," and with this sentence unfinished, he leaped with both feet from 
the narrow plank upon the yielding barrel head, and disappeared "up to his 
neck in spirits" which the anxious crowd had hoped to put into their own 
necks, and to test in a more convivial manner. Through this awkward 
incident of his canvas, he lost his election, but thereby acquired fame as 
"Old Soak," which name ever afterwards identified him. A Virginia audience 
listens well, is courteous to strangers, and appreciative of humorous wit 
or salient points of speech, even though it be at their own expense. They 
love to "see the fur fly."

The following lines express the sentiments of a freedman voter:

LOOKIN' FO' DE CANDEEDATE.
Jes' befo' de 'lection
He cum soon an' late,
Now I'se gittin' lonesome
Wa.itin' at de gate.
Mistuh! can yo' tell me
Whar is dat Can-dee-date?

Hope de Lawd will spar' him,
His talk was powerful great.
I 'sped he'll do a heap
Now fo' dis of state.
Mistuh! please do tell me
Whar is dat Can-dee-date?

Public vendues (auctions) were held out in the open court green, where 
horses, oxen, mules, cows, and "busted merchants" goods were bid upon by 
the many, and but few of whom knew their intrinsic value. Auction bids are 
seldom correct indexes of values. Snits of clothing were purchased on 
these occasions without opportunity to "try the fit," and therefore 
without due regard to the size of the contemplated wearers, the result of 
which was that the purchaser of a suit of vendue clothing attended the 
following Court in a coat he could not button around him, and a pair of 
"high water pants," too sheet by many inches.

"Swapping" horses is a custom which is almost exclusively confined to the 
rural sections of the United States. This custom prevails to a greater 
extent in the States south of Mason and Dixon's line than elsewhere. In 
the sections of Virginia remote from a railroad, nearly every man, white 
and colored owns either a horse, or male, or yoke of steers, and the 
majority of the owners will make a swap of either animal, if good 
opportunity offers.

"The swapping" was conducted usually in the tavern "horse lot," after 
score "sharp talk," and a few gallops of the animals, up the road and back 
again. A wily "swapper" from an adjoining county, would ride though the 
"Court House Bounds" upon his "new, jaunty tail, frisky hoss," that 
betokened "go in him," and "hard to hold." Such a swapper was sure to 
attract act the attention of the younger owners of horses. None but the 
poor animal, and its shrewd rider knew that a dried chestnut burr under 
the crupper was the main cause of its frilliness, and if a "swap" were 
made and the dried chestnut burr were shed, the animal's sudden loss of 
friskiness, and an inspection of his mouth, would disclose the fact that 
he had "cat leis eye teeth" many moons antedating the birth of his new 
owner. The loser in a horse swap at one court was a winner at the next 
court, else he had made such a "bad swap" that it "broke him up." Every 
young horse owner, at some time or another, is desirous to make a swap. 
The earlier in life he makes the swap and "gets stuck good" the more he 
may profit in after years by this experience. The "Court House Bounds" on 
a court day, is a good place for the young swapper to begin, for there he 
is sure to meet with friends who will do for him that which his newly 
swapped horse may refuse to do-carry him home.

It is said there are tricks in all trades, and a few in horse swapping. 
Here are some of the tricks of unscrupulous traders. To make a true 
pulling horse balk, mix corrosive sublimate and tincture of cantharides 
and apply it to his shoulders. To make a sound horse appear lame, a single 
hair is taken from his tail and run through the eye of a needle; the front 
leg is lifted, the skin pressed between the middle and outer tendon, and 
the needle shoved through. The horse will go lame in twenty minutes. To 
make a horse stand by his food and not eat it, grease his front teeth with 
tallow, and he will not eat until it is washed out. A fine wire fastened 
tight around the fetlock between the foot and heel will make a horse 
appear as if badly foundered. When a horse goes dead lame in one shoulder, 
it is disguised by creating a similar lameness in the corresponding leg by 
taking off the shoe and inserting a bean between it and the foot. Black 
spots are put on a horse by applying a mixture of lime and litharge. To 
put a star on a horse, a piece of cotton cloth the size of the star 
desired, is spread on the part and warm pitch applied. After two days it 
is washed until the hair grows out white.

Court day was a holiday for many of the negroes, especially for those 
living nearby the Court House village. The young negroes had no serious 
cares for the future, and therefore enjoyed themselves in wrestling, and 
kicking bouts, and in dancing "Juba patted tunes," and keeping step to the 
lively "hoe down" tunes played upon a jewsharp.

The elderly and thrifty negroes-some of whom their masters permitted to 
"fish for themselves" brought fresh fish, oysters, and chicken to supply 
the hungry crowds. Their wives did the cooking in the open Court House 
green, upon a fire of dry "light wood knots" and faggots which they 
carried in ox carts from their homes for the occasion. Every Court was 
attended by several "black mammies," who came in "steer kyarts," loaded up 
with fish "jes' fum de watah dia mawnin'."

Oysters fresh from their watery beds: "I 'clay sub, dey didn't hav' time 
to dry darselves 'fore I fotch 'em yere." They had young tender chickens 
"dress'd by can'el light dia mawnin', so nice dar mammys wouldn't know 'em 
suh."

"Cose I fix yo' one!" "Honey, yo' sot yo'se'f down on dat bog dar, an' yo' 
won't stahve to death waitin' wile I'se fryin' dis yere one fo' yo'. Does 
yo' laik ash cake or co'n pope wid yo' chicken? We mos' in gin'ral eats 
ash cake wid our fried chicken, an' an' co'n pope wid our b'iled wittlea. 
Yas suh ! Dats de way of Missus she fotch us up suh."

"It's heap o' wuck to raise chickens; dey needs lots of nussin' 'fore 
dey's able to care fo' deirselves. Dey has a sight o' pips, an' gapes, an' 
wums a troublin' 'em. We mos' in gin'ral makes 'em swaller dar pips, an' 
den dey won't hev' gapes so bad. An' yo' got to watch out fo' dem prowlin' 
ornary chicken hawks Vat flies 'bout in de yair, an' pounces down 'pon de 
little ones 'fore yo' 'spects dey's any whar's 'bout yo' place. W'en dey 
grabs a chicken, 'taint no use fo' de of hen to make a racket, kase dat 
chicken's sho' gone fum 'bout yere.

"My of man Isaac he fixes contraptions to skeer de hawks, but, Honey, dey 
aint no good, dem hawks cum an' sot down an' res' darselves right dar on 
top o' Isaac's fixins laik it war made fo' dem to res' on. Ef Isaac evah 
seed one o' dem hawks a settin' dar, I 'spect he'd cuss ef he warn't a 
church member, kase he's mighty easy upsot."

The rumor that the dry goods box, which an obliging storekeeper loaned for 
the occasion as a "dining table," was covered with "Aunt Tilda's" clean, 
bed sheet, in lieu of a table cloth, did not appear to diminish her trade. 
The food and cooking of these "black mammies" was excellent. They were 
patronized by white and colored.

Crime and commerce are the principal subjects which bring business to all 
courts. Owing to the general orderly condition of its people, the courts 
have few cases of crime upon their dockets, and seldom are these of a 
seriously vicious character.

During the first few years after the Civil War, there was some petty 
pilfering by a few of the negroes. They would take a few fowls, or a "turn 
of fodder" or corn, or some trifling amount of food to tide them over some 
"resting spell," during the period they were determining whether freedom 
meant all play or some labor. The white people who suffered from these 
annoyances were generally lenient when the culprit was detected and often 
would go bail for the release and future good behavior of the prisoner. 
Some of the magistrates' trials of these offences were amusing instances 
of the simplicity of Tidewater Virginia justice, and of the forbearing 
nature of the whites toward the colored kindly, during these years.

A certain negro named "Major"-no one ever knew him by any other name-was 
haled before a magistrate for stealing a turkey, and when confronted with 
the evidence of his guilt, the magistrate said: "Well boy, (forty years 
old,) what have you to say about this?" to which Major replied:

"Jedge, it happen'd dis yere way. I was tukken down wid a misery in ma 
side, an' I want able to go to cuttin' no co'd wood laik I'd bin a doin', 
an' jus as I wuz a gwine to de sto' to ax Mistuh B_____ to lemme hav' a 
few poun's o' bacon 'twill I gits rid o' de misery in ma side, an' den as 
I cu ms pas' Mistah C -'s cuppen fence dar sot dis yere young turkey right 
dar, suh, and I sez to mase'f, ef de Lawd me I shore gwine cut Mistah C 
_____ a co'd an' a ha'f uv good wood fo' dis yore tukkey. Dat's jes' wat I 
say, I aint tellin' yo' no lie, suh. I suttinly will wo'k out dat tukkey, 
shore's I live. W'en I tuk dat tukkey I didn't hav' grease enuff in ma 
cabin to grease a spider. I don et it all up 'fore I seed dat tukkey. 
Dat's how cum I taik dat tukkey. I clar 'fore de Lawd dis is de fust time 
I evah was kotched takin' tukkey in ma life."

Major's bail for future apearance at court when called and for his future 
good behavior, was fixed at a small sum, and an old ex-Confederate soldier-
who knew that turkeys roosting on a nearby fence are great temptations-
joined in the bond, and Major was again a free man and his future trial 
was never fixed. He "fined" the church, and ever after was an orderly 
citizen. In recognition of his future good behavior, the writer loaned him 
a newly painted wheelbarrowto which he had taken a great fancy-to wheel 
his child to "'traded meetin'," some four or five miles distant. Thus it 
is that virtue receives its reward in Tidewater Virginia.

The judges of the courts are selected from amongst the members of the 
local bar. They are usually natives of that section over which they have 
jurisdiction, and are therefore well informed as to the character of its 
people, and conversant with their daily modes of life. In the 
administration of justice, information of such character is an aid to a 
judge in tempering justice with mercy, especially if the Court has the 
heart like unto a Tidewater Judge. All courts of law are hedged with 
technicalities more or less, but the people of thin section, and the 
courts are more anxious to reach the truth of a legal problem by a just 
and righteous inquiry than through technicalities of law which may distort 
and pervert the ends of justice.

There is a genteel, quiet dignity in the Virginia Judge, but it partakes 
nothing of the overwise, and solemn countenance which so often betokens 
the "man of law" in many other sections of the United States. "The judge" 
is one of the people's choice, and respected accordingly. When not in his 
court "he is one of the people." In addition to his court duties he is 
frequently the owner of lands which claim his attention, and often his 
personal aid in their cultivation.

The laws are administered in Virginia with the least degree of harshness, 
and to all classes alike. No taint of dishonor has ever been justly made 
against the judiciary of this section.

The Tidewater Virginia Judge of the rural districts, is well-known and 
readily recognized by all persons, white and black, young and old, within 
his circuit, and when passing along the public highways, he is constantly 
being saluted by the passers-by as "Judge."

To one accustomed to such familiar and friendly recognition it is a shock 
for him to reach a place where he is totally unknown and the oldtime 
friendly recognition ceases.

One of those courtly Virginia judges, named [missing] from one of "The
Peninsula" counties, had occasion to visit New York City, and upon his 
return to his native heath was asked how he liked the big city, to which 
he replied New York City, suh! I was there nearly two days, suh, and not a 
single person stopped to say "Howdy" to me, nor even recognized me. I want 
nothing more to do with such an uncivil place, suh! I'm glad to be back 
amongst people who have time and inclination to be decent."

The lawyers and doctors of Virginia, outside of the cities, are usually 
land owners, and like the judges, they may be found with their hands to 
the plow, or in directing their employees where to "run the furrow."

The country lawyer, and country doctor need to be generally well informed 
in their respective professions. The "specials ties" of law, or of physic 
in that section are not of sufficient magnitude as to induce one to 
confine himself to "special practice." The rural life, therefore, forces 
the practitioner to efforts which city life does not demand.

Country lawyers, and country doctors, unlike their city brothers, take 
active parts in the social and industrial conditions which surround them, 
and are, therefore, useful members in the life of their respective 
communities for advice, counsel, and aid in matters of import outside of 
their respective schools of thought.

The doctor seldom engages in political debate; he leaves that field open 
to his more combative brother of the bar. The doctor will draw blood only 
in the effort to save life. The lawyer will seek eye for eye, and tooth 
for tooth when hip client is wrathy and demands the Levitical law.

The lawyers of America, especially those born and reared within the rural 
sections, and in the smaller towns, and who might be classed as "country 
lawyers," have taken prominent places in the councils of this nation from 
its foundation to the present day. They were signers of the Declaration of 
Independence, and many of them have filled the chair of the Chief 
Executive of this nation.

Nearly every lawyer in Tidewater Virginia is a politician, at least to the 
extent of speech making for their political party. They are the class of 
men from amongst whom came Patrick Henry, Henry Clay, Henry A. Wise, and 
other orators, and statesmen, as well as jurists of historic renown. The 
lawyers frequent many county courts. They "ride the circuit" in search of 
business, and it is of frequent occurrence that upon entering a distant 
court house, they may be engaged to take charge of a case in court without 
a moment's preparation, other than a hurried consultation, but their wide 
and extensive acquaintance with the people of all classes resident within 
their practice, together with their general knowledge of law, are their 
aids in such emergencies. They are usually good judges of human nature, 
and can lay bare its frailties and weaknesses in open court with eloquent 
tongue. As a rule they reside at the court houses.

The lawyer of early years of the colony was paid his fees in tobacco, and 
when he got a case in court, he probably tried to "make things smoke."

If the court session was prolonged until late in the evening, the members 
of the court and bar spent the night at the village tavern.

Before the introduction of stoves-they were not in general use in the 
rural sections until several years after the Civil War-the big fire place 
of the tavern, which emitted bright and cheerful glows, was the scene of 
much comfort and enjoyment during the winter court nights. Then it was 
that the judge, the lawyers, the summoned jurymen, and officers of the 
court, and persons whose business detained them over night, assembled 
around the capacious hearth and engaged in friendly discussions, and 
relations of witty and humorous stories. Every Virginian is fond of a 
story, provided it is devoid of gross vulgarity. The lawyers are usually 
good story tellers, and it is said the judges of Virginia are able to hold 
their end up when occasion arises. It was rumored that the late hours of 
the nights spent at the tavern were often enlivened by "a gentleman's
game" of draw-poker-played for sport and not for gain.

It is said there is a chapel in Rome dedicated to one Saint Evona, a 
lawyer. He came to Rome to entreat the Pope to give the lawyers of 
Brittany a patron. The Pope replied that, he knew of no saint but what was 
disposed of to other professions, and he had none to spare for the 
lawyers, at which Evona was very sad, and begged so earnestly that at last 
the Pope proposed to him that he should go around the church blindfolded, 
and after he had said so many prayers, that the first saint in the group 
which he might lay hold of while blindfolded, should be the patron of 
lawyers. The good old lawyer started in his round, and at the end of his 
prayers he stopped at an altar, reached out his hand and laid hold of the 
image of the devil which lay at the feet of St. Michael, and cried out in 
his blindness "This is our Saint; let him be the patron of my profession-
the law." Upon the removal of his blindfold, and observing what a patron 
he had chosen, he was shocked to death, and coming to Heaven's gate, he 
knocked hard, whereupon St. Peter asked "who it was that knocked so
loudly;" he replied that it was "Evona the advocate." "Away, away," said 
St. Peter, "there is but one advocate in Heaven; there is no room for you 
lawyers." "O! but," said Evona, "I am that honest lawyer who never tools 
fees on both sides, or ever pleaded in a bad cause, nor did I ever set my 
neighbor by the ears, or lived by the sins of the people." "Well then," 
said St. Peter, "come in," and thereupon St. Peter sent an angel to the 
earth to inscribe upon the tombstone of St. Evona:

"God works wonders now and then,
Here lies a lawyer, an honest man."

It is agreed that this epitaph is suited to Virginia lawyers. In 1643, the 
first act was passed for regulating lawyers. No attorney was permitted to 
plead without a license, which was granted by the court in which he 
practiced. Their fees were twenty pounds of tobacco in the county courts, 
and fifty pounds in the (quarter Courts, and no attorney could refuse to 
be retained unless employed on the other side.

In 1647, that act was amended by adding a clause to it declaring that no 
attorneys should take any fees, and if the Court should perceive that 
either party, by their weakness, was likely to lose his case, they 
themselves should either open the case "or appoint some fit man out of the 
people to plead the cause, and allow him a reasonable compensation." No 
other attorneys were admitted. This act was repealed in 1656.

Act of 1680 declared that "no licensed attorney should demand or receive 
for bringing any cause to judgment in the general court, more than 500 
lbs. of tobacco and cask; and in the County Court, 150 lbs. of tobacco and 
cask; which fees are allowed him without any pre-agreement." "If any 
attorney shall refuse to plead any cause in the respective courts 
aforesaid, for the aforesaid fees, he shall forfeit as much as his fees 
should have been."

The attorneys of those days could hardly "pocket their fees;" they had to 
"bag them."

In many of the counties are preserved curious wills and orders of Court. 
The following copy of a will for probate in York County, Virginia, in 
1637, is interesting:

"At a court holden att ye house of Mr. Richard Townsend Ye 25th day of May 
1637. Present Capt. Christopher Wormsley, Capt. Robt. Fellgate, Mr. John 
Chew, Mr. Richard Townshend, Mr. John Cheeseman, Mr. Will Pryor, Mr. Hugh 
Owen.

In the name of God Amen. This will and Testament being the last Will and 
Testament of Andrew Whorvell, made the tenth of March 1631, being in his 
perfect senses as ever he was in his life time. Witnesseth That I make 
Christopher Stokes my lawful overseer to see that the tendure of this my 
will be performed as followeth

First. I bequeath my soul to Almighty God, my maker, and my body to be 
buryed in the Ground and for my worldly Wealth that itt hath pleased God 
to endow me with as followeth

--Item. I give unto my brother Nathaniell Clarke one sow pig the whitch my 
father doth owe me and one Barrel of Corn when he is one and twenty years 
of age and two hens presently.

Item. I give unto my Sister Bettie Clarke three barrels of Indian corne 
and one pullett and one sow.

Item. I give unto my father Joseph Jolly one sow pigg, and one barrow pigg.

Item. I give unto my mother Margaret Jolly one barrow pigg.

Item. The three barrels of Corne that I give unto my Sister Bettie Clarke 
is to be put to use till that she cometh to age and the sow that I give 
her they that keep her till that she cometh to age are to have of the 
increase all the bore piggs and the sow piggs to be putt to the best use 
till that she cometh of age. Witness my hand this day and year first above 
written.

Andrew Whorvell, his X mark."

Will of Richard Coles of Westmoreland, proved in 1674.

Item. It is my will and desire that my body be interred upon Poynt 
Pleasant, upon my plantation, in a neat coffin of black walnut, if 
conveniently be had, and that a grave stone of black marble be with all 
convenient speed sent for out of England, with my Coat of Arms engraven in 
brass, and under it this epitaph:

Here lies Dick Cole, a grevious sinner,
That died a little before dinner,
Yet hopes in Heaven to find a place
To satiate his soul with Grace.

Item. I will that my grave stone be raised with Dutch brickes above three 
foot from the ground, and my grave be paled in with posts and rails of 
locust, and white oke boards of a double substance, and under them locust 
sills, and if my wife think it expedient to sell ye land that the vendee 
or vendees be obliged forever to keep my grave in repair."

The following order, celebrating the birth of a Prince of Wales, in Old 
Rappahannock County, now Essex and Richmond counties, is interesting:

"At a court held for Rappahannock County the 2d day of Jany Anno Dom, 1688.

Present-Col. Jno. Stone, Capt. Geo. Taylor, Capt. Saml. Blumfield, Mr. 
Jno. Rice, Justices.

It having pleased Almighty God to bless his Royal Majesty with the birth 
of a son and his subjects with a Prince of Wales, and for as much as his 
Excellency hath sett apart the 16th day of this inst. Jany, for 
solemnizing the same; To this end, therefore, that it may be done with all 
expression of Joy this county is capable of, This Court have ordered that 
Capt. George Taylor do provide and bring to the North Side Court House for 
this County (now Richmond) as much Rum and other strong liquor, with Sugar 
proportionable, as shall amount to six thousand five hundred pounds of 
Tobacco, to be distributed amongst the Troops of horse, company of foot 
and other persons that shall be present at the solemnitie, and that said 
sum be allowed him at the next laying of the levy; as also, that Cap. 
Saml. Blumfield provide and bring to the South Side Court House for this 
County, (now Essex) as much Rum or other strong Liquor, with sugar 
proportionable, as shall amount to 3500 lbs. of Tobacco, to be distributed 
as above, at the South Side Court House and the said sum to be allowed him 
at the next laying of the levy."

Note also the following:

"A court at James citty the 17 Sept. 1627 present Sir George Yeardley, 
Knt, Governor, Dr. Pott, Capt. Smyth and Mr. Secretary, Divers 
examinations being taken and had concerning the unquiett life wch ye 
people of Archers Hope lead through the scoldinges raleings and failings 
out vath Amy the wife of Christopher Hall and other abominable contentions 
happening between them to the dishonour of God and the breach of the Kings 
peace, the Court hath thereupon ordered that the said Amy shall be toughed 
(towed) round about the "Margarett and John" and ducked three times."

The "Margaret and John" was a vessel anchored near Archers Hope, the place 
where the colony would have first settled upon but for the shallow waters 
near the shore.

Some of the laws of the early days are also interesting:

"The court in every county shall cause to be set up near the Court house, 
a pillory, a pair of stocks, a whipping post, and a ducking stool, in such 
place as they shall think convenient.". . . . Laws of 1662.

"In actions of slander occasioned by a man's wife, after judgment passed 
for damages the woman shall be punished by ducking, and if the slander be 
such as the damages shall be adjudged above 500 pounds of tobacco, then 
the woman shall have ducking for every 500 pounds of tobacco adjudged 
against her husband; if he refuse to pay the tobacco." Laws of 1662.

Lord Culpeper, writing in 1683 said the Secretary (of State) was a patent 
officer, from the first seating of the country, the very next in dignity 
to the Governor, or Commander-in-Chief. He had the right to appoint all 
County Clerks. He was keeper of the colonial seal and exofficio clerk of 
the Council and General Court, though the duties of these offices were 
actually performed by the titular clerks of the respective bodies. The 
clerks of the courts in Tidewater Virginia are among the most competent 
and obliging of its officials, and mainly for these reasons are the less 
affected-of the county officers-by the political changes which occur at 
the regular elections. Many of them went into these offices as deputies to 
their fathers in their first years of manhood, and were continued there as 
long as they lived.

"Well done thou good and faithful servant" can truthfully be inscribed 
upon the tombs of the clerks of courts in Virginia.

The old time court house buildings which were usually but one story in 
height are being supplanted either by entirely new structures, or by 
additions to them of modern improvements and shapes, which in many cases 
have obliterated all semblance of their original style of architecture. 
The court rooms of the old time buildings were upon the first floor, large 
and airy in summer, and cold and draughty in winter. In the improved 
buildings,. the court rooms are generally situated upon the upper floors, 
which are well lighted and heated, and comfortable during all seasons. The 
walls of some of the court rooms are decorated with tablets of stone and 
portraits, containing the names and services of local officials; they also 
contain the portraits of many distinguished men of both state and national 
fame, who were born within these several counties, or who made their homes 
therein during a period of their lives.

The judicial circuit presided over by Hon. Judge T. R. B. Wright, which 
comprises the counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond, and 
Westmoreland, in the "Northern Neck" peninsula, and the county of Essex, 
in the "Middlesex" peninsula, contains the largest collection of tablets 
and portraits perhaps, of any circuit in the State. The collections within 
this circuit include Presidents of the United States, Cabinet officers of 
the Chief Executive, Judges, Jurists, and Statesmen of renown. There are 
also portraits of distinguished soldiers of every war in which the nation 
has been a participant, from the Revolutionary to the Civil War.

Among the more prominent portraits are those of George Washington, and 
Robert E. Lee, upon the walls of Westmoreland Court House.

Roger Jones, Adjutant General of the United States Army, and Edwin Bates, 
Attorney General in President Lincoln's Cabinet, are found upon the walls 
of Northumberland Court House.

Upon the walls of Essex Court House are many tablets of stone containing 
the names of soldiers of the Confederacy, among whom are several of 
Pickett's famous Division. Among the portraits is that of Hon. R. M. T. 
Hunter, a distinguished member of the United States House of 
Representatives for many years, and a member of the United States Senate 
from his native State (Virginia) when the Civil War began. Whilst a member 
of Congress, he originated the bonded warehouse system, under which 
imported goods were permitted to remain in Government warehouses until the 
owners desired to put them upon the market, paying the duties at the time 
of withdrawal. He was a prominent candidate for the Presidency in 1860. 
When Virginia seceded, he resigned his seat in the Senate and was 
afterwards Secretary of State of the Confederacy in President Davis' 
Cabinet. He was one of the three Confederate Commissioners appointed by 
President Davis to treat for peace with President Lincoln and Secretary 
Seward at the Fortress Monroe Convention. In 1874 he was elected Treasurer 
of Virginia. He died in Essex County, July 18, 1887.



CHAPTER XVIII. COUNTRY ROADS IN TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

When the colonists reached Virginia there were no roads, public or 
private, laid out upon this continent. There was no necessity for such 
openings through the lands and forests of America as are now known as 
public roads or highways. The Indians trafficked only in such articles as 
they could shoulder. They did not know the use of metals and therefore had 
no weighty material to transport such as at the present day, and if 
necessity arose for roadways they had no implements with which to 
construct them. They were content to march in single file when journeying. 
They had no draft animals, nor vehicles for carriage or transportation 
other than boats, many of which were constructed of material so light in 
weight as to admit of their portage from stream to stream upon the 
shoulders of men.

When the colonists extended their settlements into the interiors of the 
peninsulas, away from the navigable streams, and when public places were 
established, such as churches, court houses, and grist mills, there arose 
a necessity for roads, but such roads as were constructed in the early 
years of the settlement, though their construction was forced by acts of 
assembly, were, nevertheless, nothing more than bridle paths.

Act. L, 1632 provided: "Highwayes shall be layd out in such convenient 
places as are requisite accordinge as the Governor and Council, or the 
Commissioners for the monthlie cons shall appoynt, or according as the 
parishioners of every parish shall agree."

Act IX, 1657 provided for surveyors of "High Waise." "That surveyors of 
highwaise and maintenance for bridges be yearly kept and appointed in each 
Countie Court respectively, and that all generall wages from county to 
county and all churchwaies to be laid out and cleered yeerly as each 
county court shall think fit, needful and convenient; respect being had to 
the course in England to that end."

In 1661 Act LXXXIX provided for the yearly appointment of surveyors of the 
highways by the justices of the peace to "lay out the most convenient 
wages to the church, to the court, and make the said wages 40 foote broad, 
and make bridges where there is occasion."

The surveyors were also directed to keep the "wages" clear from fallen 
logs, and the bridges in good repair. They were empowered "to order the 
parishioners everyone according to the number of tithables he bath in his 
family, to send upon the dayes by the surveyors appointed to help them in 
cleering the wages and making and repairing the bridges according to the 
intent and purpose of this act" There were penalties attached payable in 
tobacco for neglect to perform these duties.

Building roadways through the primeval forests, and over low bottom lands, 
and marshy grounds, and bridging numerous streams, was a mighty laborious 
undertaking at the early period of Virginia's settlement, especially if 
this task were to be done by the single individual and not by the 
collective community.

As a matter of fact, each seating place of a planter when first settled 
upon was devoid of any passageway or roadway to or from his home in the 
primeval wilderness connecting him with the outside world, and because of 
the gigantic task of road building many of the settlers postponed this 
work, thus placing their homes remote from all intercourse with the public 
highways and beyond the reach of their fellow man. So common was this 
condition that the general assembly deemed it necessary to enact laws 
compelling the opening of roads to "houses and plantations." Such was Act 
V, 1667, "For Roades to Houses." "Whereas the despatch of business in this 
countrey is much obstructed for want of bridlewayes to the several houses 
and plantations: It is enacted by this grand assembly and the authority 
thereof, that every person haveing a plantation shall, at the most plaine 
and convenient path that leads to his house make a gate in his ffence for 
the convenience of passage of man and horse to his house about their 
occasions at the discretion of the owners."

In 1705, there was passed an act for constructing roads "to and from city 
of Williamsburg, the court house of every county, the parish churches, and 
such public mills and ferries as now are, or hereafter shall be erected, 
and from one county to another county, at least 30 ft. wide." All male 
tithables when called upon by the surveyor were to assist in the work. The 
condition of the public roads of Tidewater Virginia were never a source of 
very grave anxiety to its people until very recent years. So long as there 
was a hard spot in the road to straddle upon, or a rut so shallow that its 
bottom was within reach of the cart-hub, the repairing of the road was 
postponed.

This condition was owing mainly to the fact that the largest shipment of 
agricultural products, were usually from the wealthier planters located 
convenient to some stream where a vessel or lighter could be reached by a 
short haul. Many planters had vessel landings upon their own lands. The 
farmers located at the greater distance from rivers or creeks, were 
generally the less wealthy class. Their main products for shipment were 
such as "could walk off" horses, mules, cows, calves, yearlings, steers, 
hogs and sheep. What corn or wheat they raised was consumed at home, or 
trafficked with neighbors who were engaged in occupations other than 
tilling the soil.

Including the high and dry and level areas, there are hundreds of miles of 
the roads throughout that whole section which need no work upon them other 
than to trim out the intruding bushes, which, if left to thrive, would 
eventually narrow the roadway beyond usage. The hills and the soft bottom 
places in the "low grounds" have ever been a source of much labor to keep 
in good order.

The public highways of Virginia were formerly worked by the inhabitants 
living within the several road precincts, who were "called upon the road" 
by the overseer of the roads, an elective officer who was empowered by law 
to summon the residents of his district to work the roads a certain number 
of days during each twelve months. Those who failed to put in an 
appearance when called, either sent a substitute or paid a certain sum of 
money to the road-fund. This mode of repairing roads was unsatisfactory, 
and they are now worked by contract and paid for by a road-tag fund.

Owing to the fact that many of the road-beds are composed of sand or clay, 
with few or no stones or gravel, the heavy rains rapidly form deep gulleys 
on the sand hills, or quagmires on the clay hill roads.

There are hundreds of thousands of acres of Tidewater Virginia lands that 
do not contain a stone large enough to "chunk a squirrel."

Clay hills and boggy bottoms are usually corduroyed for want of better 
material. A corduroy road is made by laying a bed of poles across it, side 
by side, and covering them slightly with soil. In the event of rains 
washing the soil from the poles, the vehicle traveling over such road is 
jostled, bumped, and jerked across a small pole, and against a larger one 
alternately, with an up and down and sidewise motion, like a small boat in 
a "choppy sea." A fractious horse driven on a dark night down a steep 
corduroy hill road, after a heavy rain storm, is apt to alarm the driver 
lest he be thrown upon his head; it will at least force him to make 
uncomplimentary remarks about the road overseer.

There are many small streams "Runs" crossing the roads, which are not 
bridged. During very heavy rains, these streams widen out suddenly, and 
cover the road bed, and the surrounding lowlands, with a wave of w water 
which greatly confuses the stranger on a dark night, and I. ay put him in 
a plight of "landing up the creek" in some boggy, oozy bottom to sink 
beyond the sound of Gabriel's horn. Even though it be a dark night, an 
experienced traveler will discover by the movements of his horse's feet 
when the animal leaves "hard bottom," and by a speedy pull of the proper 
rein, may save himself from a muddy grave.

Some of the "Runs" between low banks are narrow, and during heavy rains, 
wash out "chuck holes" across the roads, which are at least alarming to 
the stranger traveler in a dense piney woods road when the stars are 
hidden by lowering clouds. Meeting one of such places, his horse and 
vehicle, without warning, suddenly plunges through the darkness with an 
abrupt jolt into the water almost oat of sight-he imagines. At this stage 
of Isis journey, the traveler is undetermined whether he kept the 
"straight road," as directed-notwithstanding its many twists and turns-or 
whether he is on his way across some deep mill pond, or navigable stream 
whose pitying waters may wash his remains to its distant shores, to form a 
fit subject for the "coroner to sit on," and determine whether the 
"stranger committed suicide," or was waylaid and dropped in the stream. 
Before he has located himself, or determined in his mind as to where his 
remains may be found, his horse gives a snort and a bound, and carries 
vehicle and traveler on dry ground. Just then he forgets his former peril 
in giving vent to his former nervousness by saying something about the 
people in that neighborhood being "too lazy to mend the roads."

It is frequently found that a darn across a mill pond is used as a public 
road. Many such dams are winding, and thus obstruct the view of the road 
from end to end, and such road beds are often too narrow to admit of 
vehicles passing each other upon the dam.

Before the Civil War, very many persons, male and female, rode horseback, 
and thus could shun the worst parts of the road. The more wealthy rode in 
their family coach; the doctors and lawyers used gigs, a two wheeled 
vehicle now entirely out of usage.

A clipping from "The Free Lance," a newspaper published in the city of 
Fredericksburg, Virginia, shows the condition of some of the public roads 
at the present day.

"DUNNSVILLE, ESSEX COUNTY, Oct. 23, 1906.

The roads are continued mud holes, and the creeks swollen above the 
bridges over them. The water was nearly knee deep on Ware's creek bridge 
Saturday, and the cause-way leading to it almost past fording. Trible 
swamp, on the road from Dunnsville to Cox's store, is a menace to life and 
limb, and should be bridged at once. Mr. E. M. W., Jr., reports that the 
water was up to his buggy body even before the last heavy rain. With such 
conditions before us at this season, what may we expect the roads to be by 
Christmas, and for patience sake, what in February? The mail driver from 
Tappahannock to Walkerton had to swim his horse today, and the same may be 
said of the driver from Dunnsville to Daisy."

Deep sandy roads during a dry spell are as tedious and tiresome to travel 
through as would be a deep bed of snow. Roads of this character are 
sometimes corduroyed.

The roads containing the deepest sand beds are more frequently found in 
the interior of the peninsulas, remote from the navigable streams. There 
is one such noted place in Caroline County, humorously nicknamed "Sandy 
Lane." A traveler passing through that section asked an old negro resident 
whom be met on a hot summer's day, laboriously plodding through its deep, 
dry sands: "How come so much sand here, Uncle?"

"Well, Boss," said he, "I've hearn it happen'd dis yore way: On de 
Saturd'y evenin' w'en de worl' wuz mos' finish'd dar wuz a right smaht 
heap o' san' lef' ovah dat want no use, an' de Lawd He say to Rime% 'I 
mus' fin' a place fur d is yore heap o' San'; an' w'en He look down 'pon 
de yearth, lie spied a right smaht big hole right yere. (fell, sub, dey 
say de Lawd sot up all dat Saturd'y night shuv'lin' san' right yore in 
Sandy Lane, an' w'en Sund'y mornin' cum, Ile wuz tired an' He say to 
Hisse'f' I mus' take a res' dis day shore.' I tells yo' Boss, ef it hadn't 
bin Toy Sandy Lane in of Kal-line County, de wite folks would a wucked us 
poh Di09g seben days in ev'ry week, an' dar wouldn't bin no Sund'y but Toy 
Sandy Lane. Dat's how cum Sund'y 'pinted de day to res' yo'se'f. Thank de 
Lawd To' Sandy Lane."

Where the public roads lead across rivers and deep creeks, they are 
crossed in many places by means of "flat boats," which are propelled by a 
rope stretched across the stream from bank to bank, and fastened to stakes 
or logs embedded in the earth. The flat boats have two parallel upright 
standards at either end, and some of them a wheel or block between the 
standards upon which the rope "travels" as the boat is pulled from shore 
to shore.

To permit a ready entrance of vehicles and animals into the boat, it is 
provided with an "apron" at either end. The aprons are hinged platforms 
attached to the ends of the boat, and projecting outward from the ends 
several feet. When the boat reaches the shore, the outer side of the apron 
is lowered until it reaches the earth, thus affording a gradually 
inclining passage to and from the boat. While crossing the stream, the 
aprons, are held up above the water by means of "sweep poles" run through 
rings upon each of the outer sides of the aprons, and through other rings 
upon the floor of the boat. The aprons are swung, as it were, upon the 
ends of the sweep.

On the country roads of Tidewater Virginia, no one passes another without 
some show of courtesy, or familiar recognition. Acquaintances exchange 
greetings by inquiry about each other's health, and that of their 
families, and engage in discussing the latest important or interesting 
event relative to their section, state or nation. This takes time, but 
every Tidewater Virginian has time always for courtesies. The negroes, 
during slavery, when meeting the whites raised their hats, bowed and 
politely replied "Sarvint, suh."

It was ill bred manners to overtake and drive past another vehicle 
containing ladies or gentlemen without making some apology. There is good 
reason for this courtesy, especially during dry weather, because the roads 
during that period are stifling with fine dust which is readily started 
into motion from a passing vehicle.

The customary rule of the road is to pass to the right. This rule is 
observed wherever practical.

There are hundreds of miles of the public highways too narrow to admit two 
vehicles going in opposite directions, to pass each other in the beaten 
path of travel. If two such vehicles meet on a level spot "it is easy," as 
one or the other can "take to the woods," or bushes; if they meet upon a 
narrow hill road between steep banks, then "comes the tug of war."

Virginians never took time to form proper width roadbeds over the hills, 
where most needed. In many places where the hills are crossed, the road 
beds are but wide enough between steep banks for one vehicle to pass. When 
two vehicles meet upon such a place, the one going down the hill has the 
right of way by custom. The one coming up the hill must back down to where 
the road is sufficiently wide to permit of passing. Such contingencies are 
the only instances in which a Tidewater Virginia gentleman will consent to 
back down.

There are not many country road; in Virginia which have continuous miles 
of "straight travel;" many of them are as crooked as the streams to which 
they lead.

The numerous rivers, creeks and other inland streams found there, together 
with the hills, which are always ascended by the roundabout, and not the 
straightest grade, make it difficult, if not impassible to construct 
straight roads.

Neither are the public highways always indicated to the traveler by the 
show of "well worn roads:" There are many localities where the main 
highways indicate signs of less usage than do the private roads to some 
saw mill, or "timber Betters" or cord wood choppers' camps. Where the 
public and private roads of this character join, it is a puzzle to 
determine one from the other, as there are so many instances in which the 
public roads are substituted by short cuts through the woods to avoid bad 
places where the public highways form "forked," or "cross roads," they 
crook and bend into one another with such suddenness and mystification 
that the traveler is at a loss to determine whether he is coming from, or 
returning to his first starting point by some more direct route-he almost 
meets himself coming back. There are sign board posts at nearly all 
forked, or cross roads, and but few of them have sign boards, and these 
few are pointed either upward or downward-suggestive only of the direction 
in which the righteous and the unrighteous mast eventually go. In such 
contingencies, the traveler should retrace his steps to the nearest 
dwelling house, even though it be a mile or two, where he is sure to find 
the people, -white and colored, very courteous and obliging when directing 
a traveler, but he will most likely be told to "keep the straight road," 
regardless of his destination.

In some of the counties bordering on the Chesapeake Bay, nearly every 
other man resident, whether he be the owner of a "dugout" a canoe dug cut 
of a single log-or the master of a coasting schooner, has the title of 
"Captain." There are other less numerous titles, such as Major and 
Colonel. Some of these latter titles were deservedly won in the Civil War, 
and others are reminders of the patrols and militia of days "Befo' de 
Wah." Those with titles are best known by their abbreviated Christian 
name, and are thus spoken of and addressed by even their most intimate 
friends. Captain Patrick Henry Clay is known and addressed only as Captain 
Pat Clay.

A stranger to these customs, asked an old time negro where Mister Patrick 
Henry Clay lived:

"Deed I dunno Boss! No sich gentleman named dat livin' bout yere as I 
knows of. Is he a white gentleman or a colored gentleman?"

Upon being asked if there were any persons named Clay living in that 
neighborhood, he replied:

"Plenty uv 'em, suh! Plenty uv 'em. Captain Pat Clay lives across de crick 
yonda. Ef I had ma dugout I'd take yo' dar 'dreckly, but ef yo' has to go 
roun' de head uv de crick, I dunno w'en yo' gits dar, lease it's right 
smaht ways, an' de wust road in de county." "Well, I tells yo' how yo' 
gits dar. Keep de straight road 'twell yo' comes to a "new cut" road. 
Do'an yo' turn in dar, lease dat aint de road yo' takes. W'en yo' gits 
right smaht ways fum dat place whar yo' sees de new cut road, yo' keeps de 
straight road pas' Captain Jim Lanes "wintah cuppen" (cowpen); it's right 
in de pines whar he shelter his cattle in the wintah time. Den yo' turn 
dar an' keep de straight road 'twell yo' gits to a pole gate made outen 
pine saplin's. Do'an yo' go in dar, lease dat whar Captain Tom Jinkins 
live. Den yo' keep de straight road 'twell yo' comes to a big sycamore, 
right smaht size, an' straight down de road fum dar is a right smaht skirt 
o' pines, some on 'em right smaht size an' yuther ones jes' young 
saplin's, kase dar whar de saw mill war las' year, an' dey cut all de bes' 
timber outen dar 'fore dey move de mill. Dey suttinly mus' use a heap o' 
timber in town, kase dat mill wuz a sawin' mos' night an' day, an' dey 
sent ev'ry blessed stick o' dat timber to town, an' dey axed fo' mor'."

"W'en yo' gits outen dat clearin' whar de saw mill war, yo' comes in sight 
o' Captain Ned Daingerfields house, right down on the crick she'. Den de 
nex' house yo' sees straight down de crick she,' yo' knows it's Captain 
Pat Clays. I 'spect he's de gentleman yo' is lookin' fo'. W'en yo' gits to 
his gate. you'd bettah holler, kase he keeps a passul uv de wust houn' 
dogs yo' evah seed, an' dey aint got no use fo' a niggah laik me."

Many of the roadsides of the cultivated lands present the appearance of 
hedges, as the fences are hidden from view by pretty cedar trees, and 
chinquopin, sassafras, holly, dogwood, and sumac bushes, intermingled with 
wild grape, Virginia creeper, honeysuckle, and trumpet vines. The seeds of 
these trees, bushes, and vines are carried to the fences by the birds 
which alight upon the rails with the seeds in their beaks, and there drop 
them. Many of the division fences between the fields, are also lined with 
cedar trees, the seeds of which were also carried there by birds. As there 
is "land a plenty," the fields are seldom cultivated close to the fences, 
and these several growths are therefore left undisturbed to thrive. What 
is known as the "worm fence" was most commonly in use. It was formed of 
pine, oak, or chestnut split rails, or poles placed one upon another in 
the form of an elongated, endless capital W. It is said a Virginia worm 
fence might be made of rails "too crooked to lie still."

A claimant for trespass upon his fenced land was obliged to prove his 
fence was "pig tight, steer high, eight rails and a rider."

Many of the counties now have what is known as a "no fence law," that is, 
no one need fence against trespass of other persons' stock as liability 
follows for trespass upon unfenced lands.

One can travel for continuous miles through sections of wooded lands, and 
find the country roads lined upon both sides with young, and old timber, 
and so dense may be the growth that only a vista of the Heavens may be 
seen.

More than half the land surface of Tidewater Virginia is covered with 
timber, the greater part of which is pine of every species, except white, 
and Norway pine.

A dense pine forest is usually clear of other undergrowth, and therefore 
presents much more the appearance of a city park than an uncultivated wild 
woods. It is also one of the most quiet places upon earth, as the foliage 
of the pine makes no rustling sound when agitated by light breezes. During 
heavy wind storms, they emit a sound as if a broom were swept violently 
through the air, a swishing sound.

The woods, with their sweet and healthful odors, and their restful 
quietude, make the ideal home for small game. Along these forest roads may 
be seen during the spring and fall months, thousands of redbreasted 
robins, and the song of the wild mocking bird is often heard there to the 
delight of his mate who is attending to her maternal duties on some 
adjacent bush.

THE BUILDING OF THE NEST.
They'll come again to the apple tree,
Robin and all the rest,
When the orchard branches are fair to see
In the snow of the blossoms drest;
And the prettiest thing in the world will be
The building of the nest.

Weaving it well, so round and trim, 
Hollowing it with care;
Nothing too far away for him,
Nothing for her too fair;
Hanging it safe on the topmost limb,
Their castle in the air.

Ah, mother bird, you'll have weary days
When the eggs are under your breast,
And shadows may darken the dancing rays
When the wee ones leave the nest;
But they'll find their wings in a glad amaze,
And God will see to the rest.

So come to the trees with all your train
When the apple blossoms grow;
Through the April shimmer of sun and rain,
Go flying to and fro,
And sing to our hearts as we watch again
Your fairy building grow."

Squirrels may cross the path of the traveler-tails up-in quest of the 
acorn or chinquopin to lay up for "a cold day." The "Old Hare" the "Mollie-
Cotton-Tail" of the youngsters-may be seen "scampering her level best" in 
an effort to keep her carcass from the jaws of a greedy old fox that 
follows closely behind her.

A few years ago, in many of these counties, might be seen the daintily 
limbed Virginia deer, leaping across the road to disappear in the thicket 
beyond the sight of the baying hounds and the hunter who follows in hot 
pursuit.

The wild turkey was often seen in the "old field clearings," scratching 
for a living, accompanied in the spring time by her brood of young ones.

The deer have nearly all disappeared, but the wild turkey, in many places, 
yet "roosts high."

During the early spring and late fall months, the "Cohonk," "Cohunk," of 
the wild geese in their annual migration, from sundown to break of day, 
were familiar sounds throughout that region of Virginia. Since the 
introduction, and frequent trips of the local steamboats to many of these 
streams, the wild goose and the wild duck seek the more quiet places.

From the earliest days of settlement of this nation, oxen were in demand 
for slow, heavy draught work, either upon the public highways, or in the 
woods and new ground clearings, where tree stumps and roots were numerous. 
At such work, the patient, slow and steady tread of the ox made him the 
favorite in comparison with the quick, nervous, and excitable horse.

The ox team needed no harness other than a yoke with a ring attached to 
its center, and strengthened by an iron band, and two bows. Neither of 
these required a very high degree of mechanical art to form.

The yoke was made of light, tough, close grained wood, usually swamp 
maple. It was long enough to reach over and project beyond the necks of 
both cattle. Where it rested upon the necks, it was rounded out to fit 
each, and holes were bored to receive both ends of the bows, which were 
made of young, straight grained hickory, or white oak rounded smoothly, 
and bent U-shape to fit under the throats of the cattle, then up into the 
holes in the yoke, fastened by a key in each, thereby securing the oxen 
together.

When the ox was worked single, he was driven with bits in his mouth, 
attached to a halter which passed over his head, and was guided by rope 
lines. To each end of a single yoke were fastened rings which passed 
through eye bolts to support the shafts of a vehicle, or to hitch traces 
to while plowing, or at other work.

It was often the self-imposed and much enjoyed task of the youngsters-
white and colored-on a plantation to "break the yearlings to the yoke."

A team composed of a bull and a jackass, or a bull and a mule was 
humorously dubbed "Virginia Rag Bag team." Such team was seldom seen 
elsewhere than in the forest section, and was more frequently the property 
of "free negroes."

The ox team is being rapidly relegated to the rear of the procession of 
the present day progress, and soon will be ranked with the tallow candle 
age curiosities of the grandfather's day. In pioneer days the ox team was 
a highly prized necessity. They lightened the burdens of the American 
pioneer in his long and tedious march "Westward Ho" from the Atlantic to 
the Pacific in advance of the locomotive.

He was worked as long as he was able, and when no longer fit for burdens, 
his flesh was meat for his matter's sustenance, and his hide consoled many 
a weary foot. He has been in service from the earliest record of history. 
His useful and patient service has earned for him a notice in the Proverbs 
of Solomon: "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean; but much increase is by 
the strength of the ox."

The Tidewater Virginia ox is not large, but "when pushed, will get a move 
on him" that would leave the larger cattle of other sections far behind in 
the race. Like all his species, he will move but slowly unless urged, but 
"he gets there just the same."

On a hot summer's day may yet be seen on these country roads, the typical 
ox team and negro driver of "Buck and Bright," hauling cord wood, railroad 
ties, or going to, or returning from a grist mill with "a turn of meal."

There is an air of quiet and leisure suggested by the meeting of a yoke of 
oxen in charge of an old Tidewater Virginia negro on a country road there, 
which is not found elsewhere. The oxen more leisurely along with their 
burden, chewing their quid with evident satisfaction, turning neither to 
the right nor to the left, but "keep in the middle of the road," as they 
were early taught.

The driver sits perched upon the load with whip in hand, and both eyes 
closed to all the world and its cares-fast asleep. He puts his trust in 
his well-trained cattle and the good Lord who watches "even to the fall of 
a sparrow." If the road is wide enough, the Virginia gentleman traveler 
"turns out" without a murmur of complaint, slumbers of the drowsy driver.

Ninety-nine out of every hundred ox teams in that section or without 
disturbing the are named "Buck and Bright." Buck is the "nigh" ox, Bright 
is the "off" ox.

As a steady, useful draught animal, the mule ranks with the ox, and is 
preferred for work on the plantation. The mule learns his work more 
quickly than does the horse, and is more patient and less timid.

He requires less grain food and less grooming than does a horse, and 
thrives if permitted after his day's work to roll upon the ground and fill 
his hide with sand, which he afterwards delights in shaking of by a romp 
and a kick or two. A mule or an old time negro may look drowsy, but either 
of them can fling their feet with astonishing rapidity. A mule will permit 
his driver to take certain liberties with him which a stranger may take 
only at great peril to his own safety:

"Stan' cl'ar o' dat Pete mule's hin' laigs 'less yo' wants yo' fune-ral 
preached," is the frequent admonition of the negro mule driver to 
intruding strangers who do not know "a mule's ways." The negro is usually 
a patient and merciful driver.

The negro as a mule driver, has a cinch on the white man. A Tidewater 
Virginia mule is like an inquisitive, healthy boy. He wants someone 
talking to him all the while. If a mule balks, or shies, or travels too 
sloww, the white man has neither time nor patience to talk to him in other 
than sulphurous language, and frequently will resort to the whip, which 
only adds to the stubbornness of the mule. The old time negro driver had 
more time to spare, and consequently more patience with the halting or 
fractious mule than the white man, and he talked to the mule in a peculiar 
inflection of the voice calculated to shame the mule: "W'at's de matter 
wid yo' muil? Look at him now; w'at I feed yo' fo', suh? I'se not gwine 
stan' yere all day pesterin' wid yo'! Yo' yere me muil? Git up here muil 
'fore I war dis yere switch outer yo' hide, suh!"

While this talk is going on, in a deliberate way, the mule is resting, and 
when it ceases, off goes the mule, and the negro and the mule at once 
forget the incident.
Life in Old Virginia - End of Chapters XV-XVIII

 
Intro
Chapt I-V
VI-XI
XII-XIV
XV-XVIII
XIX
XX-XXI
Appendis
 


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