Life in Old Virginia - Chapters I-V



CHAPTER I. THE DOMAIN OF VIRGINIA

The historian Burke wrote: "A correct history of Virginia would be the 
history of North America itself, a portion of the globe, which enjoying 
the invaluable privilege of self government, promises to eclipse the glory 
of Rome and Athens. In this part of the American Continent the first 
permanent establishment was farmed by the English, and it is here we must 
look for those ancient documents and materials, whose discovery will throw 
light on the history of the other States."

Virginia, now a South Atlantic State, and one of the original thirteen 
States to form the Union, was named in honor of Elizabeth, the Virgin 
Queen, and originally comprised all the territory north of Florida 
extending "from sea to sea," across this continent, from the Atlantic to 
the Pacific Oceans. What is now left of this immense territory, bearing 
the honored name of Virginia, lies between the parallels of 30 degrees 31' 
and 30 degrees 27' North; and longitude 75 degrees 13' and 83 degrees 37' 
West, containing a gross area of 42,450 square miles, or 27,168,000 acres; 
40,125 square miles of which is land surface, and 2,325 square miles of 
water surface. It contains 100 counties, which are grouped into six grand 
divisions, as follows:

(1) Tidewater Virginia; (2) Middle Virginia; (3) Piedmont, Virginia; (4) 
The Valley of Virginia; (5) The Blue Ridge, and (6) Appalachia.

The first dividing of the original territory named Virginia was by James I 
of England, who on April 10, 1606, granted a charter to the "South 
Virginia Company" of London, commonly called the "London Company," and to 
the "North Virginia Company," of Plymouth. When this charter was granted, 
the Crown of England claimed the whole of North America called "Virginia," 
between 34 degrees and 45 degrees north latitude under the name of 
Virginia, by right of discovery. It was conceded that Spain occupied all 
south of 34 degrees-commonly called Florida-and to France was conceded all 
north of 45 degrees. To the London Company was granted the territory 
between 34 degrees and 41 degrees north latitude, running from ocean to 
ocean.

The northern limits of Virginia were afterwards curtailed by grants to 
Lord Baltimore in 1631 and to William Penn in 1681, and the southern 
limits by a grant to the Proprietors of the Carolinas by charter in 1663. 
The next division of Virginia's territory was by deed of cession through 
her delegates in the Continental Congress, Thomas Jefferson, Samuel Hardy,-
Arthur Lee, and James Monroe on March 1, 1784.

When the definite treaty of peace with Great Britain was made, September 
3, 1783, the general government had no lands in its possession, though the 
States had premised to cede their western lands. All the territory 
included in that treaty was then claimed by some one or other of the 
several States. It was through the cessions of these several States which 
claimed the lands that the United States government derived title to what 
is known as public lands, or "public domain." Subsequently both the public 
and national domain vas acquired and added to by the general government by 
purchase, treaty and annexation from France, Spain, Texas, and Russia., 
during several respective periods. The "national domain" is the total 
area, land and water, embraced within the boundaries of the United States 
of America. The United States government also holds dominion over the 
Sandwich Islands, some parts of the West Indies, and the Philippine 
Islands, all of which are outside the limits of the main lands of North 
America.

Prior to 1781, six only of the original thirteen States, viz., New 
Hampshire, Rhode Island, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Delaware 
had their present defined boundaries, while the remaining seven States, 
claimed some lands to the west. The States with inexact boundaries ceded 
their claims to the lands west of their present limits to the general 
Government.

The total actual cessions of these seven States, viz: Connecticut, New 
York, Massachusetts, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and 
Georgia, for public domain, were 404,956 square miles, or 259,171,840 
acres. Of this amount Virginia ceded 195,431,680 acres, the most valuable 
gift ever recorded in the history of this nation. Hence her right to the 
honored title of "The Mother of States."

On March 1, 1784, Virginia, through her delegates in the Continental 
Congress completed the act of ceding all the territory west of the State 
of Pennsylvania and northwest of the river Ohio below the forty-first 
parallel of north latitude, which was hers by charter right. She had an 
additional claim to the western territory extending north from the forty 
first parallel north latitude to Lakes Michigan and Huron, now in Illinois 
and Michigan, and northward, by reason of conquest and occupancy during 
the Revolutionary War by her State troops under General George Rogers 
Clark.

The present area of the State of Kentucky, 40,400 square miles, was a 
"District" of Virginia, lying south of the Ohio River, and was allowed to 
be organized into a State in 1792. 

The extent of the territory Virginia gave to the Union was:

The State of Ohio (excepting the Western Reserve and Fire-lands claimed by 
the State of Connecticut and lands now in Michigan)  39,364 sq. miles  
The State of Indiana 33,809 sq. miles  
The State of Illinois 55,414 sq. miles  

She also ceded lands claimed by the State of Connecticut and Massacusetts 
under their crown charters, as well as by the United States under the 
definite treaty of peace with Great Britian of 1783:

In Michigan, 56,451 sq. miles  
In Wisconsin, 53,924 sq. miles  
In Minnesota, east of Mississippi River 26,000 sq. miles  

Total (disputed and undisputed) cession by Virginia including Kentucky 305,
362 sq. miles  

The last slice of territory taken from Old Virginia was 23,000 square 
miles, which went to form the State of West Virginia, by an Act of 
Congress, December 31, 1862, which took effect June 9, 1863.



CHAPTER II. THE PENINSULAS OF TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

The region which the colonists first selected for settlement is known as 
"Tidewater Virginia." It was there that the first great struggle of the 
white race was begun with the aboriginal inhabitants for the purpose of 
establishing a permanent abiding home in a new world, many years before 
the pilgrim Fathers "first sighted Plymouth Rock. The howling of the wild 
beasts of the forest, the war whoop of the equally wild man and the solemn 
hoot of the midnight owl were the only sounds to greet the ears of the 
first settler in all the vast territory which now comprises this" Glorious 
Union of States"The settlement of this region was begun more than two 
hundred years before the first railroad was built upon this planet. There 
were then no public highways, but only here and there an Indian trail to 
point the new comer through the wide wilderness of America.

This region of America is full of the romances and the realities of the 
experiences of the early years of the first permanent settlement of the 
English speaking people on this Continent. Here it was for the first time 
that the stroke of the axe of the English laid prostrate the standing 
giants of the forests of the new world, and thereby awakened nature from 
its slumbers and sounded new and alarming echoes throughout the lands 
christened "Virginia" by a Virgin Queen of the Old World. It was here that 
the beasts of the wild woods, and the fowls of the air first were shocked 
to death by the burst of the rifle's discharge, and the superstitious 
natives thus forced to believe that the new comers were born not of woman 
but sent armed from the skies with a demon of destruction which no other 
earthly power possessed. It was there the first thoughts of human freedom 
were given birth and voice to cheer mankind. The "cradle of liberty for 
this Continent" was first tenanted and rocked there to lull the cries of 
the "child of freedom." It was there the first truly representative 
legislative body of the people assembled on this continent. The first 
sound of praise and thanksgiving ever uttered in the language of this 
nation from a house of worship dedicated to God, in the new found world, 
vibrated the air of Tidewater Virginia, and wafted its way to the throne 
of Grace, bespeaking the coming of a new race. It was at Jamestown that 
the first church was built within the territory which later comprised the 
thirteen original States. It was in that section that Pocahontas, the 
untutored daughter of a savage chief, though born in the primeval forest, 
first taught the world that "pity and mercy" are the inherent qualities of 
womankind, and are not confined to the cultured princesses of the stately 
palaces of civilization.

It was here that the first slave set foot upon the mainland of this 
continent. Here it was that the white man first exercised the right of 
suffrage, and that trial by jury was first granted. The first free school 
on this continent was started in this section. The first manufactures of 
this continent were begun here, and were the first of such products sent 
from the newly found continent to the Old World.

Tidewater Virginia has produced more eminent and illustrious men of 
America than any other section of the same extent within the boundaries of 
this nation. Its history has inspired the orator, enthused the soldier, 
and awakened in the statesman suggestions of wisdom, the benefits of which 
this nation is now the recipient.

Its soil is sprinkled with the blood of the patriots of the Revolution in 
their successful battling at Yorktown, which cheered a weak people in 
their mighty struggle for final freedom. The marks of many heroic battles 
for the perpetuation of the "Old Union of States," or a disunited nation 
and a "New Confederacy," are yet in plain view in many parts of section of 
Virginia, bearing evidence of the willing sacrifices which all Americans 
will make in defense of a principle. 

Tidewater Virginia begins at a gap in the Atlantic Ocean shores of 
Virginia, known as the "Capes of the Chesapeake." This gap forms an 
entrance more than twelve miles in width, and within a short distance 
inland from its mouth it broadens into a magnificent stream, in some 
places nearly forty miles wide, and is known as the Chesapeake Bay. The 
salt waters which flow from the Atlantic Ocean into this big bay, through 
its capacious mouth, spread out and form long rivers, such as the James, 
Rappahannock, and Potomac, and shorter streams as the York, Piankatank, 
Yeocomico, Coan, Wicomico, Nomini and others too numerous to mention, and 
inlets, creeks, and coves innumerable. The Chesapeake Bay also sends its 
flood of waters to the shores of Maryland, where they form innumerable 
streams throughout that State.

Tidewater Virginia is divided into nine natural subdivisions, or large 
(primary) peninsulas, each of which contains many small (subordinate) 
peninsulas, no part of which is elevated more than 150 feet above sea 
level. 

The large peninsulas are grouped as follows
1. "The Eastern Shore Peninsula," consisting of two counties:

Northampton and Accomac. The first was named in honor of the Earl of 
Northampton; the latter was named after an Indian tribe inhabiting that 
section. Northampton and Accomac were twice named. The territory composing 
the Eastern Shore of Virginia was first named Accawmake. Under this name 
it was made one of the eight original shires into which Virginia was 
divided in 1634, and continued under the name of Accawmake until 1642, 
when it was changed to Northampton. In 1672 Accomac was formed from its 
upper part, and the lower part retained the name of Northampton. This 
peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at Cape Charles, and extends along 
the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay to the Maryland line. It includes the 
land across to the Atlantic coast.

2. The "Norfolk Peninsula" consisting of two counties. Princess Anne, 
formed in 1691, from Lower Norfolk, named in honor of Queen Anne.

Norfolk, formed in 1691, from part of Lower Norfolk, named in honor of 
Duke of Norfolk.

This peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at the North Carolina line, 
extending inland around Cape Henry to the mouth of James River.

3. The "Southside Peninsula" containing seven counties. Nansemond was 
formed in 1639 from Upper Norfolk, and named Nansimun after an Indian 
tribe. In 1645 it was changed to Nansemond.

Isle of Wight, one of the original eight shires formed in 1634, and known 
originally as Warrasquake. In 1637 it was named in honor of a place in 
England.

Southampton, formed in 1684, from Isle of Wight, named in honor of Earl of 
Southampton. 

Sussex, formed in 1753 from Surrey County, named in honor of Lord Sussex.

Surrey, formed in 1652 from James City County, named in honor of Lord 
Surrey.

Prince George, formed in 1702 from Charles City County, named in honor of 
Prince George, afterwards King George II.

Chesterfield, formed in 1748, from Henrico, named in honor of P. D. 
Stanhope, Lord Chesterfield.

This peninsula is situated on the south side of the James River, beginning 
at its mouth, and extending to "the falls" of that river which flows 
between Chesterfield and Henrico counties.

4. The "Richmond," or "Chickahominy" Peninsula, containing two counties:

Charles City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia 
was divided in 1634, named in honor of Charles the First.

Henrico, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided 
in 1634, named in honor of Henry, Prince of Wales.

This peninsula is on the north side of the James, and between that river 
and the Chickahominy. It begins at the mouth of the Chickahominy where 
that stream empties into the James, and extends to "the falls" of the 
latter river, which flows between Henrico and Chesterfield counties.

5. The next peninsula is known as "The Peninsula," containing six counties:

Elizabeth City County, one of the original eight shires into which 
Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of queen Elizabeth. 

Warwick, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided 
in 1634, then called Warwick River, changed to Warwick in 1642, named in 
honor of Warwick in England.

York, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 
1634, then called Charles River, changed to York in 1642, named in honor 
of Duke of York.

James City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia 
was divided in 1634, named in honor of King James I.

New Kent, formed in 1654, from York, named in honor of. Kent in England.

Hanover, formed in 1720, from Now Dent, named in honor of George I, King 
of Hanover as well as England.

This peninsula begins at Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay, its southern 
boundary, thence up the James River to mouth of Chickahominy, where this 
stream empties into the latter river, thence up the northern bank of 
Chickahominy. Its eastern and northern boundary is the whole length of the 
south side of York River, thence up the Pamunkey, between that river and 
Chickahominy.

6. The "Gloucester Peninsula," containing three counties:

Gloucester, formed in 1651 from a part of York, named in honor of Duke of 
Gloucester.

Mathews, formed in 1790, from part of Gloucester, named in honor of 
Governor Mathews. This county is a peninsula extending into the Chesapeake 
Bay, and united to the main land by a narrow neck of land. Its lands are 
so nearly on a dead level that there are no running streams of fresh water 
in the county. The grist mills are run by wind or tide power.

King and Queen County, formed in 1691, from New Kent, named in honor of 
King William and Queen Mary.

This peninsula lies between the York and Piankatank Rivers and Chesapeake 
Bay:

The "King William" or "Pamunkey Peninsula," containing two counties:

King William, formed in 1701, from King and Queen, named in honor of 
William III. It lies between the Pamunkey and Mattaponi Rivers. 

Caroline, formed in 1727 in the language of the act of the House of 
Burgess, "On the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and King William
Counties," named in honor of Princess Caroline Elizabeth. It lies between 
the North Anna and Rappahannock Rivers.

8. The "Middlesex Peninsula," containing two counties:

Middlesex, formed in 1675, from Lancaster, named in honor of Middlesex in 
England.

Essex, formed in 1692, from part of "Old Rappahannock", named in honor of 
Earl of Essex.

Old Rappahannock County was formed in December, 1656, from part of 
Lancaster County. In the language of the ;t of Assembly: "The upper part 
of Mr. Bennetts land knowne by the name of Naemhock on the south side of 
the eastermost branch of Moratticock Creeke, on the north side the river 
be the lowermost bounds of the upper county. The lower county to retaine 
the name of Lancaster and the upper county to be named Rappahannock."

The territory embraced within what was termed in the act as the "Upper 
County" included Richmond County, on the north side of Rappahannock River, 
and Essex County on the south side of same river.

9. The "Northern Neck of Virginia," now containing five counties:

Lancaster, formed in 1651, from Northumberland, named in honor of 
Lancaster in England.

Northumberland County, originally called Chickcoun, adjoining Lancaster on 
the Chesapeake Bay. It originally comprised the whole "Neck of land 
between Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers."

The date when this county was formed is in doubt; it certainly contained 
the first settlement or the whites north of Rappahannock River, within all 
the territory subsequently named "The Northern Neck of Virginia." At what 
date the first settlement was made there is not known. By an Act of 
Assembly in June, 1642, it was felony to settle outside of certain limits 
without permission of the governor and council. It provided "That the 
Rappahannock River should remain unseated for divers reasons therein 
contained, notwithstanding it should and might be lawful for all persons 
to assume grants for lands there," etc. A similar act to that of June, 
1642 was passed in 1647, but in October, 1648, it was reviation of 
Secacaconies, an Indian tribe once located on that stream. The first 
public official announcement of the name of Northumberland occurs in the 
9th Act of Assembly, February, 1644-5, providing for the erection of three 
forts, viz.: one at "Pamunkey" (Nest Point), named Fort Royal, one at the 
"Falls of James River" (Richmond), named Fort Charles, and the third on 
the ridge at "Chicquohominie" (near Bottoms Bridge), named Fort James, as 
follows: "And be it explained and confirmed by the authorities that the 
associating counties on the south side of the river are hereby to 
contribute towards the maintainance of the (Indian) War on that side, 
without any expectation of any contribution from the north side, and so 
likewise on the north side by themselves including Northampton and 
Northumberland." From the above one would conclude it had been made a 
county at, or prior to 1644, but the writers of the early period, except 
Hening, were content with their own knowledge that Northumberland was but 
a "Plantation" in 1644-45. The earliest court records now in the clerk's 
office of that county are dated 1652. Some of the court records were 
burned many years ago, therefore it is not known what dates the records 
bore which were destroyed. The old books are bound with oak board backs, 
covered with heavy leather. They contain much of interest in the matter of 
curious wills, and surprising items relating to the sentences imposed by 
the courts for offenses (stated in the plainest words of the English 
language), which under the present day ruling of the courts would meet 
with less rigorous punishment.

Richmond County, formed in 1692, from old Rappahannock, named in honor of 
Duke of Richmond.

Westmoreland County, formed in 1653, from Northumberland, named after 
Westmoreland in England. The first mention of Westmoreland County is in an 
Act of Assembly of July, 1653, by which "It is ordered that the bounds of 
the County of Westmoreland be as follows, via.: from Machoactoke River, 
where Mr. Cole liven, and so upwards to the falls of the great river 
Pawtomake, above Nescostines towne." Nescostines towne referred to was 
probably a settlement of Indians at the place now known as "Anacostia," on 
the Eastern Branch, now in the District of Columbia. Westmoreland County 
under this Act extended to "the falls of the Potomac," which would include 
the territory now comprising the counties of King George, Stafford, Prince 
William, Fairfax and Alexandria.

King George County, formed in 1720, from Richmond County, named in honor 
of grog George I.

These five counties are formed within a peninsula, the southern and 
eastern boundaries being the mouths of the Rappahannock, and Potomac 
rivers.

Many persons include the County of Stafford in the present "Northern Neck 
of Virginia." To include this county would bring the Northern Neck 
opposite to the City of Fredericksburg, and beyond it to include the 
limits of the whole county. The city of Fredericksburg is in Spotsylvania 
County, and lies on the southern banks of the Rappahannock, at the
"falls" of that river-the head of tidewater of that stream.

The original "Northern Neck of Virginia" distinguishes this peninsula as 
being once the seat of the largest individual land holdings ever in 
America. In 1661, Charles II, of England made a grant of land in America 
to Lord Hopton and others, which included: "All that entire tract, 
territory and parcel of land, lying and being in America, and bounded by 
and within the headwaters of the rivers Tappahannock alias Rappahannock, 
and Quiriough alias Potomac rivers, the course of the said rivers as they 
are commonly called and known by the inhabitants, and description of their 
parts and Chesapeake Bay." This was sold by the original patentees to Lord 
Culpeper in 1683, and later was confirmed to him by letters patent in the 
fourth year of the reign of James II, of England. The elder-Thomas 5th-
Lord Fairfax, married the only daughter of Lord Culpeper. These lands 
descended to the son by this marriage-Lord Thomas Fairfax, Sixth Baron of 
Cambridge. He came to Virginia in 1739 to look after this estate. This 
immense tract included the territory now comprising the counties of 
Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond Westmoreland, Prince George, Stafford, 
Prince William, Fauquier, Fairfax, Loudon, Culpeper, Clarke, Madison, 
Page, Shenandoah and Frederick, in the present limits of the State of 
Virginia, and Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan, Berkeley and Jefferson now within 
the State of West Virginia; the whole estate comprising nearly 6,000,000 
acres. On a petition of Lord Fairfax, the King appointed a "Commission" 
for running out and marking the limits of his patent. The three 
Commissioners for the Crown were Colonel William Byrd, of Westover, John 
Robinson, and John Grymes. Lord Fairfax appointed William Fairfax, William 
Beverley and Charles Career. In 1746 an expedition of forty gentlemen, 
amongst whom were Beverley, Lomax, Lewis, Lightfoot, Hedginan, Peter 
Jefferson, and young George Washington, started from Fredericksburg to 
survey and define the boundaries of "The Northern Neck of Virginia." This 
expedition laid the "Fairfax Stone" at the head spring of the Potomac. 
Lord Fairfax opened an office in the county-Fairfax-which was named in his 
honor. There he granted out his lands until a few years thereafter when he 
removed to Frederick County, and settled at a place he called "Greenway 
Court," twelve or fourteen miles southeast of Winchester, where he led a 
sort of hermit life, and kept his office during the remainder of his life. 
He died December 12, 1781, soon after hearing of the surrender of 
Cornwallis at Yorktown. It is said that as soon as he learned of the 
capture of Cornwallis and his army, he called his servant to assist him to 
bed, observing: "It is time for me to die," and he never again left his 
bed until he was consigned to his tomb. His body was deposited under the 
Communion table in the then Episcopal church in Winchester.

The lands were granted by Fairfax in fee simple to his tenants, subject to 
an annual rent of two shillings sterling 'per hundred acres, added to 
which he required the payment of ten shillings sterling on each fifty 
acres, which he termed "composition money," and which was to be paid upon 
the issuing of the grant. In 1785 the legislature of Virginia passed an 
Act, in which among other provisions, in relation to the Northern Neck, is 
the following: "And be it further enacted, that the land owners within the 
said district of the Northern Neck shall be forever hereafter exonerated 
and discharged from composition and quitrents, any law, custom or usage, 
to the contrary notwithstanding:"

The present limits of the Northern Neck of Virginia have earned a far 
greater distinction than that of its connection with the largest 
individual proprietorship of lands. Within its borders were born some of 
the most illustrious men, who were conspicuous in the shaping of the 
destinies of the American people. Of the seven Presidents of the United 
States who were born in Virginia, but two of them were born outside of the 
tidewater section: Thos. Jefferson, born in Albemarle County, and Zachary 
Taylor, born in Orange County. Of the remaining five Presidents, three 
were born in the Northern Neck of Virginia-George Washington, and James 
Monroe, both born in Westmoreland County, and James Madison, born in the 
adjoining county of King George. The other two PresidentsWilliam Henry 
Harrison, and John Tyler, were born in Charles City County. The Northern 
Neck of Virginia is greatly distinguished and honored as the birthplace of 
"Mary" (Ball), "The Mother of Washington," born at "Epping Forest," 
Lancaster County, in 1707. She died at Mt. Vernon, Fairfax County, August 
25, 1789.

Westmoreland County was also the birthplace of the "Lees" "Light Horse 
Harry Lee," and others of that family, including General "Robert E. Lee."

The Northern Neck is the longest of all the peninsulas comprising 
Tidewater Virginia. It extends from the Chesapeake Bay shores to the head 
of tidewater, upon the Rappahannock River; a distance of more than 120 
miles.

Tidewater Virginia extends beyond the confines of the counties named as 
being within the nine peninsulas herein mentioned. It also includes the 
five counties on the upper tidewater section of the Potomac River, to "the 
falls," viz.:

Stafford, formed in 1675, from Westmoreland, named in honor of Lord 
Stafford.

Spotsylvania, formed in 1720, from Essex, Ding William and King and Queen, 
and named in honor of Alexander Spotswood, a Governor of Virginia. 

Prince William, formed in 1730, from King George and Stafford, named in 
honor of William, Duke of Cumberland.

Fairfax, formed in 1742, from Prince William, named in honor of Lord 
Fairfax, the proprietor of the Northern Neck.

Alexandria County, was originally a part of Fairfax county, and was ceded 
to the United States, to become a part of the District of Columbia for the 
seat of the Federal Government. In 1846 it was retroceded to Virginia, and 
organized as a county.

These five counties are by some authorities assigned to the "Tidewater 
Divisions," and by others they are classed as being in the "Middle 
Virginia" section. They are intersected by tidal streams through their 
lands, the greater part of which is on the fresh water section of 
tidewater.

The soil of Tidewater Virginia is variable in its formation and fertility. 
The lands at the mouths of the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers are low, 
and composed mainly of sand and clay, devoid of stones or rocks. As the 
lands advance up the "Northern Neck," there is evidence of pebbles, cobble 
stones, and finally a rocky formation appears upon their surface. On "the 
ridge"-the central region between the rivers, Rappahannock and Potomac-is 
found the least fertile of all its soils. Such is the case in all of the 
peninsulas, as one goes from the east to the west. On the ridges can be 
seen bare sand hills free from vegetation even during the season of 
verdure on the surrounding lands, and seamed into unshapely galleys by the 
rains and snows of centuries. In these sections can be found log cabins, 
and "slab" dwellings and outhouses, and "pine brush arbor cuppens" 
(shelters) for cattle. Fortunately there is but a small percentage of this 
character of land in old Virginia. Its loss of fertility is due mainly to 
the improvident and neglectful modes of cultivation practiced in the early 
years, by taking everything off the land and returning nothing to it. 
These poor lands when "turned out" grow good pine, and oak timber on the 
higher parts, and poplar and other woods in and around the galleys.

The lands on the sides of the ridges sloping gradually down to the rivers, 
present evidence of greater fertility, especially as they reach what is 
known as the "river bottom lands." These lower sections were early 
selected by the wealthiest planters, whose holdings were generally large, 
and whose dwelling houses were commensurate with their wealth and 
prosperity. Some of these old time dwelling houses are fine specimens of 
the architecture and splendor of their period. There are several of these 
old time dwellings yet standing along the James, York, Potomac and 
Rappahannock rivers. Among the number is "Stratford," the birthplace of 
General Robert E. Lee, in Westmoreland County. This dwelling and many of 
the outhouses-former servants quarters-are built of brick, and are yet in 
a good state of preservation. From the upper part of this dwelling house a 
beautiful view can be had of the Potomac River, and surrounding streams, 
and woodlands. The original tract contained nearly 3000 acres. A part of 
it is yet in the possession of a descendant of the Ire family. There are 
no remains of the dwellings in which either Washington, Monroe or Madison 
were born. Along the James are Westover, Sherley, Lower Brandon and other 
several rivers. They are the tears of joy which trickle down the, 
mountain's face as it views from its high peaks the verdure, quiet, and 
beauty of its lowland offspring. The numerous streams throughout Tidewater 
Virginia can be made to produce as much wealth as can be produced from its 
lands. Oysters of the finest flavor, and fish of nearly every edible 
species are found in its waters. Many of these streams wind their tortuous 
way far into the interior of the many little peninsulas. They add a charm 
to the landscape as they sharply turn a point of land, and hide beyond it 
to appear again farther away. To follow them in their gambols, one has 
only to seek some high point of land and he is charmed by the sight which 
nature in her freak of jollity has bestowed to this section of America. 
The forests are composed mainly of pine, which always carry an emerald hue 
upon their boughs, and thus form a pleasing sight during the winter months 
in comparison with the harder woods which shed their leaves in autumn, and 
shiver in their bare limbs during the chilly winter, until spring in its 
compassionate mood grants them cover and makes them again things of beauty.



CHAPTER III. THE INDIANS OF VIRGINIA

When America was discovered, there were at least three distinct conditions 
of life amongst the Indian tribes inhabiting North America. The least 
advanced tribes were those in the valley of the Columbia, in the Hudson 
Bay Territory, in parts of Canada, California, and Mexico. The use and art 
of pottery, and the cultivation of gardens, or fields were unknown to 
these tribes. 

The second, or intermediate class lucre those who subsisted upon fish, 
game, and the products of a limited cultivation of the soil. Many of them 
lived in stockaded villages. Such were the tribes of Virginia and New 
England, and the Creeks, Choctaws, Shawnees, Miamis, and others east of 
the Missouri River, and certain tribes in Mexico.

The third class were the tribes who depended upon horticulture for 
subsistence, cultivating maize and plants by irrigation. They constructed 
joint tenement houses of adobe bricks and stone, and lived together in 
villages. Such tribes were found in New Mexico and Mexico.

The Indians whom the colonists first met in Virginia and with whop whom 
they lead to deal later on, were members of the Powhatan Confederacy, a 
part of the Algonquin stock whose tribes extended from Cape Hatteras to 
Newfoundland.

The Powhatan Confederacy inhabited the Virginia tidewater section from the 
sea coast westward to the falls of the rivers James, Rappahannock, and 
Potomac, extending into the tidewater section of Maryland as far north as 
the Patuxent River, and southward to Carolina. It was composed of between 
thirty and forty tribes, the far greater number of whom were women and 
children. Accidents incident to hunting wild animals, and the frequent 
warring between tribes decimated the ranks of the men. In the wars the 
women and children were usually taken captive to become a part of the 
victorious tribe.

Each of the tribes was governed by inferior kings-Werowances-who paid 
tribute from the products of the chase, and of the soil to the great 
chief, or emperor, called Powhatan, whose subjects they and all their 
tribe were to his will.

The Powhatan, known to history, was between sixty and seventy years of age 
when the first colony reached Virginia. He was tall and powerfully built, 
and able to endure much fatigue. He was a man of exceptional valor and 
judgment, though tyrannous in his commands, and cruel in his punishments. 
He caused the heads of those who offended him "to be laid upon the altar 
or sacrificing stone and their brains beaten cut with clubs;" others were 
tied to a tree, and their joints cut off with oyster or clam shells, and 
their skin scraped from their head and face, and their bodies ripped open 
and burned.(*) Powhatan lived in savage splendor surrounded by as many 
women as he willed: "whereof when he lieth on his bed one sitteth at his 
head, and another at his feet, but when he sitteth, one (woman) sitteth on 
his right hand and another on his left, when he dineth or suppeth, one of 
his women before and after meal, brought him water in a wooden platter to 
wash his hands. Another waiteth with a bunch of feathers to wipe them 
instead of a towel, and the feathers when he hath wiped are dried again. 
As he is weary of his women he bestows them on those that best deserve 
them at his hands." He was usually attended by a guard of forty or fifty 
of the tallest men found in his kingdom, and at night his dwelling place 
was guarded with sentinels who "every half hour shouted while shaking 
their lips with the fingers between." Part of the territory over which he 
ruled came to him by inheritance, the greater part by conquest. The rule 
of descent of his government was, upon his death, first to his brethren, 
and after that to his sisters, and then to the heirs, male or female of 
the eldest sister. In all his ancient inheritances he had houses built for 
his entertainment. Powhatan died in April, 1618, and was buried at the 
place known as Powhatan, on the James River.

(* In passing it is well to note some of the practices among Europeans at 
the opening of the 17th century and to compare with the Indian cruelties. 
Women were dragged about in public and ducked in ponds or rivers at the 
risk of their lives because they scolded or complained of their hardships 
and bad treatment. Men were imprisoned for debts which they could not pay, 
or condemned to die for their refusal or neglect to profess a religion 
which they could not believe in. Hell's fire, was constantly kept in the 
mind's view of the young and the old, while the pure love of God, and of 
man too often was trampled into the deep mire by superstitious teachers. 
The insane were believed to be possessed of the devil, and instead of 
receiving humane treatment they were chained to the floor in garrets or 
other isolated places. Stocks for punishment were in evidence wherever 
courts of law were held, and men were nailed to these instruments of 
torture within the public gaze to add to their punishment by becoming the 
laughing stock of passersby. Men's ears were cropped from their head, 
thereby forever fastening upon them a mark of disgrace to carry to their 
death, and much of these cruelties were inflicted for deeds such as are at 
present day admitted by the intelligent as so trivial that no provision of 
law is deemed necessary for their prevention.)

The habitations of the Virginia Indians were built like arbors, of small 
young saplings bowed and tied, and covered with mats of rushes, or the 
barb of trees "very handsomely, that notwithstanding either wind, rain, or 
weather, they are warm as stoves, but very smoky, yet at the top of the 
house there is a hole made for the smoke to go into right over the fire." 
Houses were built in the midst of their fields or gardens, or by the river 
side, "not far distant from some fresh spring." The shell banks upon the 
shores of the tidewaters indicate the sites of the former Indian villages.

Their fire was kindled by friction by rapidly revolving between the palms 
of the hands a pointed stick pressed within a hole in a block of wood, 
surrounded by dry moss, or leaves: "Against the fire they lie on little 
hurdles of reeds covered with a mat, borne from the ground a foot or more 
by a hurdle of wood. On these round about the house they lie heads and 
points one by the other against the fire, some covered with mats, some 
with skins, and some stark naked lie on the ground, from 6 to 20 in a 
house"

The Indians lived chiefly by hunting, together with the products of the 
water, supplemented by the products of the soil which consisted mainly of 
corn and pumpkins, together with the roots of artichoke--Tochnough. An old 
writer said: "It is strange to see how their bodies alter with their diet, 
even as the deer and wild beast they seem fat and lean, strong and weak. 
Powhatan, their great king, and some others that are provident, roast 
their fish and flesh upon hurdles, and keep it until scarce times. If any 
great commander arrive at the habitation of a Werowance (king of a tribe), 
they spread a mat as do the Turks, for a carpet for him to sit upon. Upon 
another right opposite they sit themselves. Then do all with a terrible 
voice of shouting bid him welcome. After this do two or more of their 
chiefest men make an oration, testifying their love, which they do with 
such vehemency, and so great passions, that they sweat till they drop, and 
are so out of breath they can scarce speak. So that a man would take them 
to be exceeding angry, or stark mad. Such victual as they have, they spend 
freely, and at night where his lodging is appointed they set a woman fresh 
painted red with Pocones and oyle to be his bed fellow."

The men spent their time in fishing, hunting, and in warring upon one 
another, "scorning to be seen in any womanlike exercise, which is the 
cause that the women be very painfull, and the men idle" The women planted 
and tended the crops, pounded the corn, made mats, pots, baskets, and bore 
all the burdens of labor. The mothers were fond of their children and 
never punished them, hoping thereby they would grow to be brave and 
courageous. To make them hardy, they were bathed in the rivers during all 
seasons of the year, and their bodies painted and anointed with oils or 
grease.

Their clothing consisted of loose mantles of turkey feathers, or the skins 
of wild animals, and aprons of the same material bound about the lower 
body. The less provident were covered with mats of rushes, grass or 
leaves. Their feet in winter were covered with deer skins. The women 
tattooed their faces, breast, arms, and legs with shapes of beasts and 
serpents. In their ears some had holes to hang chains or bracelets. In 
these holes some wore a small green, or yellow snake, which lapped itself 
about their neck, often coming in contact with the lips of the wearers. 
Their heads and shoulders when in full dress were painted red with Pocone.

During the late fall and winter months, they left their habitations by the 
rivers and separating into companies of a hundred or more, they built 
arbors for shelter in the forests, and lived by hunting. During these 
journeys, the women carried all the supplies and built the shelters while 
the men hunted.

Their manner of hunting deer was to surround the drove with many fires, 
and betwixt the fires were stationed men who shouted and scared the 
animals into the circle, where they were chased by the hunters. Where it 
vas convenient and possible, the deer were driven into some narrow point 
of land and forced into the river where the hunters lay in wait in boats 
to shoot them with arrows, or to kill them with clubs.(*) The principal 
weapons of the Indians were clubs of hard knotty wood, or a atone 
sharpened at both ends and secured by deer thongs to a handle, swords from 
the horn o£ a deer put through a hole in a piece of wood in the form of a 
pickaxe, and the bow and arrows which all the tribes in North America 
carried. The arrows were made of straight, young: tough sprigs, headed 
with bone two or three inches long. These they use for hunting small game. 
The better sort were made of reeds pieced with wood, and headed with 
splinters of flinty stone, the spurs of a turkey, or the bill of some 
large bird, fastened thereon with glue made by boiling the tips of deer 
horns to a jelly. With the bow and arrow, their best shots could hit the 
mark on the level about forty yards, and their arrows could be shot at 
random about 120 yards by pointing well upward. For a knife, they used a 
piece of reed rubbed to a sharp point; with this implement they could 
unjoint a deer, shape the skin for moccasins or mantel, and for such other 
purposes.

(* It is well at this point to recall how the English in colonial days 
hunted deer. The common method was by "driving" them. When the hunt began, 
men were stationed with guns at certain places---"stands" to the leeward 
of the locality of the deer's lair, or where they were supposed to be 
feeding. The hunters in charge of the hounds advanced from the windward 
side so that the animals would scent them, and so force the deer, in their 
attempts to escape, to run to the leeward "stands," without being able to 
scent the men stationed there. When the air was so calm that the 
"windward" and "leeward" could not be determined by its motion, a hunter 
would place his middle finger in his mouth long enough to moisten and warm 
it, and then hold it aloft, and the part which first became chilled would 
indicate the windward side.)

The Indians deified all things which could harm them beyond prevention, as 
fire, water, lightning, thunder, winds.

Through God begetting feare,
Man's blinded minde did reare, 
A hell God to the ghosts; 
A heaven God to the hoasts;
Yea'. God unto the seas;
Fear did create all these."

Their chief God was fashioned after their own form, carved from wood, 
painted and adorned with such trinkets as they could make for him. He was 
kept in sacred houses remote from the resident villages, which priests and 
kings only were permitted to visit.

These houses were also the sepulchres of their kings whose bodies were 
first boweled, then dried, lapped in skins and rolled in mats, with their 
trinkets set at their feet in baskets. For ordinary burials, holes were 
dug in the earth with sharp stakes, and sticks placed therein on which the 
bodies were laid covered with skins or mats, and the graves filled with 
earth.

After the burial, the women painted their faces with charcoal and grease 
or oil, and mourned for twenty-four hours by turns crying and yelling to 
express their grief.(*)

(* It is humorously related that it was the custom of a certain tribe at 
the burial of one of their members for each of the males to pass around 
the grave and drop a clod of earth upon it and say something of the good 
qualities of the dead. Upon the occasion of the death of one of this tribe 
who was despised because of his meanness, the members assembled as was 
usual, and each one passed around the grave, and dropped his clod of earth 
in silence. The chief whose duty it was to close the ceremonies picked up 
a handful of earth, and with solemn voice exclaimed, as he hurled the dirt 
with force upon the grave, "My brother was a good smoker.")

The priests and conjurers mere selected from amongst those who as children 
were subjected to the yearly sacrifice of children, by being forced to run 
through a lane on which men were stationed on both sides with reeds, who 
beat each child as he was escorted therefrom by young men chosen for the 
purpose, after which they were kept nine months "in the wilderness" under 
the charge of the young men, "during which time they must not converse 
with any."Many of the children died from their wounds and exposure. This 
sacrifice was held to be so necessary," that if omitted their Okee or 
Devil, and their other Gods would let them have no Deere, Turkies, Corne, 
nor fish: "Such ceremony as this was performed in 1608, by one of the 
tribes within ten miles of Jamestown.

"Their devotion was most in songs which the chief priest beginneth and the 
rest followed him, sometimes he maketh invocations with broken sentences 
by starts and strange passions, and at every pause the rest give a short 
groane."

They observed no day more sacred than another. They had solemnities in 
times of great distress of sickness or want of food, fear of enemies, 
times of triumph, and gathering of their harvests. At such times, they 
usually make a great fire, "and sing and dance about it with rattles and 
shouts together, four or five hours. Sometimes they set a man in the 
midst, and about him they dance and sing, he all the while clapping his 
hands, as if he would keep time, and after their songs and dancings ended 
they goe to their feasts."

The leading tribe of the Powhatan Confederacy was that from which the 
Pamunkey River takes its name. The chief of this tribe at the date of the 
final settlement at Jamestown was Opechancanough, the eldest brother of 
Powhatan, and his successor after his death. This chief was a man of 
remarkable skill and ability as a ruler. It was he who made the famous 
capture of Captain John Smith while hunting with his tribe up the 
Chickahominy River; and it was he who planned the massacre of the colony 
in 1622. His principal seat was on the peninsula, or point of land where 
West Point, King William County, is now situated, between the Mattaponi 
and Pamunkey rivers, at the head of York River, which these two streams 
form.

Notwithstanding Opechancanough's prowess as a warrior, and though 
surrounded by his whole tribe, Captain John Smith on the occasion of a 
visit to his seating place, to procure corn for the colony, when he 
discovered this chief was attempting to betray him, seized Opechancanough 
by the hair, and pointing a pistol at his head forced him before all his 
warriors to the humiliation of compelling his men to throw down their arms 
and load Smith's boats with corn. After the massacre of the whites, this 
chief was captured, and while a prisoner at Jamestown was basely shot and 
killed by one of his white guards.

Directly opposite "White House Landing," where George Washington courted 
the widow Custis, who afterwards became his bride, is the Pamunkey Indian 
Reservation, known as "Indian Town." The settlement is about a mile east 
of the White House, across the Pamunkey River, distant about twenty-one 
miles east of Richmond City, immediately on the line of the York River 
division of the Southern Railway. It comprises about eight hundred acres, 
ceded to the tribe by the General Assembly of Virginia. About one-third of 
the reservation is good farming land; the remainder consists of woods and 
swamp, which up to a few years ago was well stocked with game, such as 
deer, raccoons, opossums, otter, muskrats, birds, turkeys, and wild geese 
and ducks in the fall and spring, during their migrations. Adjacent to the 
reservation are several large marshes in the Pamunkey River, which up to 
recent years were used as commons by these people for the hunt. These 
marshes are now held by the adjacent land owners who use them as private 
grounds, or rent them to associations, or clubs of city men, thus 
curtailing the privileges heretofore granted this tribe.

The writer, during a visit to this reservation in August, 1906, was 
informed by their chief, that the privilege heretofore granted of hunting 
upon the wooded lands of private property adjacent to their reservation is 
also curtailed, and because of these changes many of their young men seek 
employment outside the reservation, especially during the fishing season, 
in the Northern Lakes, and the sea coast and its adjacent waters. "With 
the money saved in these employments," said he, "they usually return here 
and build, or purchase dwelling houses for their use upon the lands 
allotted them."

Their chief occupations are hunting, fishing, and the cultivation of truck 
patches and corn for their own uses. They also find employment as guides 
to hunting and fishing parties around the Pamunkey and Mattaponi rivers 
and vicinities. In the autumn season sora are plentiful in the marshes of 
these inland rivers of Virginia. The Indian method of capturing sora at 
night is by building a bright fire in a "sora horse:" This implement is 
made of strips of iron fashioned in the form of a peach basket. They were 
formerly made of clay, like a deep platter. When in use, the "horse" is 
mounted on a pole which is stuck in the marsh or placed upright in the 
bateau. A fire of pine light wood knots is then kindled in the "horse." 
The bright flames attract the sora, and as they fly around it, the Indiana 
knock them down with paddles.

The reservation belongs to the tribe as a whole. There is no individual 
ownership of land. Improvements, such as houses, are individual property, 
to be bought and sold at pleasure. Land is allotted to each head of a 
family, to be his generally for life unless a new division is necessary to 
provide for others. The tribe is restrained by the terms of the grant from 
alienating the land. The reservation is not taxed by the State, but the 
chief presents an annual tribute of wild turkeys, geese, or ducks, to the 
Governor of Virginia. The State maintains a free school on the reservation 
for the benefit of the Indian children. They receive no other aid from the 
State or National Government. The writer upon inquiry of their chief in 
August, 1906, was informed that there were one hundred and sixty-one 
members, men, women, and children belonging to the reservation. None but 
those of Indian blood are permitted to reside within its limits. They are 
quiet, orderly people and are all members of the one small frame Baptist 
church, where hangs the picture of Pocahontas above the pulpit. It is said 
there has been a considerable intermixture of white blood, and some little 
of the negro in the tribe, and that therefore because of the many 
intermarriages there is no member of full Indian blood.

Their present chief, George M. Cook, whose Indian name is "Cayatayita," is 
dignified and genteel in appearance, and has the distinguishing marks of 
the Indian, in his copper-colored skin, and long, straight, black hair and 
eyes.

In his family he maintains the English Christian names, and the Indian 
names for each of his children, as given the writer:

English name             Indian Name  
T. O. Cook               Mina-Ha-Ha  
Major T. Cook            Red Shirt  
Otigney Pontiac Cook     Pontiac  
George T. Cook           Iron Bull  
Tecumseh Deerfoot Cook   Tecumseh  
Captola Eulalia Cook     Captola  
Theodora Cook            Minnie-Ha-Ha  
Pocahontas Cook          Pocahontas  

They know but few words of the ancient tongue of their forefathers. Their 
houses are frame, weather-boarded structures, one and a half or two 
stories high. They dress as the whites, but are fond of gaudy colors. They 
make some articles of clay which is found a few feet beneath the surface 
within the reservation. The writer was given several clay pipes fashioned 
in the form of tomahawks, moccasins, and hatchets. Another article of 
interest made of clay is the "pipe of joy." In the bowl of this pipe are 
five holes made fur the insertion of five stems, one for the chief and one 
for each of the four councilmen. The smoking of a pipe during a peace 
conference was an ancient custom amongst the Indians.

There is a ferry within nine or ten miles of the reservation known as 
"Piping Tree" Ferry. It is tradition that at this place the whites, and 
Indians of this tribe met and formed a treaty, and at its conclusion as 
usual, the pipe was passed from mouth to mouth for each to take a puff as 
evidence of good faith and friendship, after which the pipe was deposited 
in a hollow tree near by the river's side. In after time when 
disagreements arose because of the whites failing to live up to their 
agreement, the Indians would remind them of "pipe-in-tree."

At the date of settlement at Jamestown, in 1607, the Pamunkey tribe was 
the largest of all the several tribes composing the Powhatan Confederacy 
which dominated Tidewater Virginia, and it had to contend for its 
supremacy mainly with the two other great tribes who lived on the head 
waters of the three largest streams of Tidewater Virginia, namely, the 
Monocans who occupied the territory of the upper James River, beyond the 
falls, and the Mannahoacs who occupied the head waters of the Rappahannock 
and Potomac rivers.

The Pamunkey tribe is governed by a chief together with a council of four 
men. The chief was formerly elected for life, but now both chief and 
council are elected to serve four years, by vote of the male citizens of 
the tribe. When the election of a chief is to be had, the council names 
two candidates to be voted for. Those favoring candidate "Number 1" 
indicate their choice by depositing a grain of corn in the ballot box at 
the school house, while those who favor the election of candidate "Number 
2" must deposit a bean in the same place. The candidate for whom the 
largest number of beans, or of grains of corn is cast is declared chosen.

The State of Virginia appoints five trustees who have the right of 
approval or disapproval of the Indian code of laws. The legislative and 
judicial powers are performed by the chief, together with the council. In 
the judicial proceedings the chief acts more the part of judge, and the 
council the part of jury. The chief and council try all the cases of 
infringements of the law, and settle all disputes between members of the 
tribe. Their jurisdiction extends to all cases arising on the reservation, 
and which concern only the residents thereon, with the exception of trial 
for homicide, in. which the offender would be arraigned before the County 
Court of King William County. The following extracts indicate something of 
their intelligence in law making:

"1st. Res. No member of the Pamunkey tribe shall intermarry with any 
Nation except White or Indian under penalty of forfeiting their rights in 
Town."

"5th. Anny party or person found guilty of stealing annything belonging to 
annyone else they shall pay the party for the amt. that are stolen from 
them and also shall be fined from $1 to $5. 3rd time they are to be 
removed from the place."

"9th. Be it known that all the citizens age 16 to 60 of Indian Town shall 
work on the road as far as red hill and anny member refuse to work shall 
be fined 75c. and Jacob Miles to be Road Master and he to be paid $1 pr 
year."

"14th. If anny person owning a piece of land and do not build and live 
upon it in 18 m it shall be considered as town property and the person 
shall be allowed 20 days to move what they has thereon off; then it shall 
be considered as Town Property and the Town can allow anyone else the same 
privilege under the above obligations."

"15th. Anny person that become rude and corrupt and refuse to be 
submissive to the Laws of Indian Town shall be removed by the Trustees, 
chief and councilmen."

"18th. An Amendment to Resolution all male citizens of Indian Town from 18 
year upward shall pay $1.00 per year and until amt is paid they will not 
be given no land."

There are twelve or fifteen of the Chickahominy tribe living in Virginia, 
but they are too scattered to form a tribal organization.



CHAPTER IV. THE LOST COLONY OF ROANOKE

Before the first permanent settlement was made at Jamestown, Virginia, 
several prior attempts were made by the English to form permanent 
settlements in America; the most notable were those under the direction 
and through the aid of Sir Walter Raleigh. The history of these attempts 
to settle .in America are interesting stories of the aboriginal 
inhabitants, and of the adventures of the English who attempted to settle 
amongst them during these early periods. In 1578 Sir Humphrey Gilbert 
obtained letters patent to settle a colony in Newfoundland. He made 
another effort in 1583 and took possession of the harbor of St. Johns-
Newfoundland.(*)

(* Sir Humphrey Gilbert was lost at sea while in the attempt to return to 
England.)

The next attempt was through Sir Walter Raleigh, half brother to Sir 
Humphrey Gilbert. This attempt was unsuccessful as the ships after a few 
days' sail had to return, owing to contagious sickness among the company 
and crew.

In 1584, Raleigh obtained letters patent from Queen Elizabeth for 
"discovering and planting any such Lands and Countries, as were not 
already in the actual possession of any Christian Nation." Sir Walter 
Raleigh persuaded "Gentlemen and Merchants" to join with him in this 
enterprise. Two vessels were provided and put under command of Captain 
Philip Amidas and Arthur Barlow. On April 27, 1584, they set sail from the 
Thames river, and on July 2, they reached the coast then known as 
"Florida."

As Virginia was first named through this expedition, some incidents in 
connection with this attempt at settlement are given from Stith's history 
of Virginia. "They (the English) landed at an island called Wococon" 
supposed to be Ocracock island, between Cape Hatteras and Cape Fear, N. C. 
"On the third day after landing they saw three natives in a canoe. One of 
them went ashore and waited without any signs of fear 'till the English 
rowed to him. He spoke much to them in his own language, and then went 
boldly aboard their vessels. They gave him a shirt, a hat, wine and meat, 
with which he was much pleased. Having attentively viewed everything he 
went away, and within half an hour he loaded his canoe with fish, which he 
brought and divided between the ship and Bark. The next day several canoes 
came, and in one of them the king's brother. His name was Granganameo, the 
King was called Wingina, and the country (was called by the English) 
Wingandacoa."

"Leaving his canoes he went to a point of land where the English had gone 
the day before. Having spread a mat, he sat down upon it; and when the 
English came to him well armed, he showed no fear; but made signs for them 
to sit down, stroking his own head and breast, and then theirs, to express 
his love.

"The natives were a proper, well proportioned people, very civil in their 
behavior and highly respectful to Granganameo. For none of them sat down, 
or spoke a word in his presence, except four; on whom the English also 
bestowed presents. But Granganameo took all from them, and made signs that 
everything belonged to him. After some small traffick he went away. Not 
long after he brought his wife and children. They were of mean stature but 
well formed, and very bashful and modest. His wife had a band of white 
coral about her forehead, and bracelets of pearl in her ears hanging down 
to her middle of the bigness of large peas, the rest were decked with red 
copper and such ornaments as are at present in fashion among Indians.

"After this, there came from all parts, great numbers of people, with 
leather, coral and divers kinds of dyes. But when Granganameo was present, 
none durst trade but himself and those who wore red copper on their heads, 
as he did. He was just to his promise, for they often trusted him, and he 
never failed to come within his day to keep his word.

"He commonly sent the English every day a brace of bucks, conies, hares 
and fish, and sometimes melons, walnuts, sent live mats to cover them from 
the weather. In short, she omitted nothing that the most generous 
hospitality and hearty desire of pleasing could do, to entertain them.

"They returned to England about the middle of Sept., 1584, carrying with 
them two of the natives, Manteo and Wanchese.

"The Queen (Elizabeth) herself was pleased to name the country 'Virginia' 
in memory of its having been first found in the reign of a Virgin Queen, 
or as some have been pleased to gloss and interpret it, because it still 
seemed to retain the Virgin Purity and Plenty of the first Creation, and 
the people their primitive innocence of life and manners."

When the English asked one of the Indians what was the name of his 
country, he not knowing what was meant, replied, "Wingandacoa:" This 
sentence was in later years interpreted into English and found to mean 
"What pretty clothes you wear."

The next settlers to Virginia came under Sir Richard Grenville, from 
Plymouth, England, April 9, 1585. They chose Roanoke Island as their 
seating place (May 26, 1585). While in America they made discoveries south 
and north of Roanoke, going as far north as Elizabeth River (now in 
Virginia), where they visited a nation of Indians called Chesapeakes, 
after which tribe the Chesapeake Bay is named. These voyages were made 
hoping to discover an outlet to the South Sea. During these voyages they 
had skirmishes with the Indians provoked mainly by their own indiscretion. 
They burned an Indian town because one of the natives stole from them a 
silver cup. Among their atrocious murders was that of Wingina, the Indian 
King, who had been so generous and hospitable to the English of the former 
expedition. There were 108 persons in this expedition.

After undergoing much hardship and danger daring about 14 months' stay in 
America, they were returned at their own request by Drake to England, 
about the latter end of July, 1586. They carried home some tobacco, which 
probably was the first ever brought to England. It is said that owing 
mainly to Sir Walter Raleigh, tobacco was introduced into general use by 
the ladies and noblemen of the Court, to which the Queen (Elizabeth) "gave 
great countenance and encouragement as a vegetable of singular strength 
and power which might benefit mankind."

There are two famous stories told concerning tobacco and Sir Walter 
Raleigh. He wagered with the Queen, that he could determine exactly the 
weight of the smoke which came out of a pipe of tobacco. This he did by 
first weighing the tobacco, and then carefully preserving and weighing the 
ashes; and the Queen readily granted that what was wanting in the prime 
weight must be evaporated in smoke. And when she paid the wager, she said 
pleasantly that she had heard of many laborers in the fire, that turned 
their gold into smoke, but Raleigh was the first who had turned his smoke 
into gold. It is also related that a country servant of his, bringing him 
a tankard of ale and nutmeg into his study, as he was intently engaged at 
his book, smoking a pipe of tobacco, became so frightened at seeing the 
smoke reek out of his master's mouth, that he threw the ale into his face, 
in order to extinguish the fire, and ran down stairs, alarming the family, 
and crying out his master was on fire, and before they could get up, he 
would be burned to ashes.

Not knowing the colonists were on their way to England, Sir Walter Raleigh 
sent a ship loaded with provisions for the settlement. After seeking the 
colony in vain the ship returned with all on board to England. About a 
fortnight after the departure of this ship (October, 1586), Sir Richard 
Grenville arrived with three ships, seeking the colony which he himself 
had seated (and which was returned home by Drake), and finding their 
habitation abandoned, in order to hold possession of the country, he 
landed fifty persons on the island of Roanoke, supplied with all 
provisions for two years. He thereupon returned to England. These fifty 
men were never afterwards found.

In 1587, three ships were sent under command of John White who was 
appointed Governor with twelve assistants as council under a Charter from 
Raleigh, incorporating them by the name of "The Governor and Assistants of 
the City of Roanoke, in Virginia," with express directions to seat at 
Chesapeake, which they neglected to do. They reached Hatteras July 22 
(1587) and went to Roanoke to look for the fifty men left there by 
Grenville, "but they found nothing but the bones of a man, and where the 
Plantation had been, the houses were undestroyed, but overgrown with 
weeds, and the fort defaced. Upon further search they learned that the 
colonists had been suddenly set upon by Wingina's men, and after a small 
skirmish, in which one of the Englishmen was slain, they retired to the 
water side, and having got their boat, and taken up four of their fellows 
gathering crabs and oysters, they went to a small island by Hatteras; that 
they staid there some time, but after departed they knew not whither." 
After some delay, White planted his colony on Roanoke Island.

At the earnest request of the colonists Governor White went to England to 
seek assistance there for his colony. He left about one hundred persons on 
one of the islands of Hatteras to form a plantation. Among those whom 
Governor White left in the Colony was his own daughter, wife to Ananias 
Dare, one of the Council, and mother of Virginia Dare, born at Roanoke 
island, August 13, 1587, the first white child born in the region then 
known as Virginia. This child and her parents are numbered with those of 
this second lost colony.

At the time Governor White reached England for assistance "the nation was 
in great commotion and apprehension of the Spanish Invasion and Invincible 
Armada." He succeeded in obtaining two small barks, but they were attacked 
at sea by the Spaniards and compelled to return to England. In the 
meantime Sir Walter Raleigh made an assignment of all his interest, title, 
or privilege, to several other gentlemen, for continuing the plantation in 
Virginia. On account of the invasion of the Spanish Armada, it was not 
until March, 1590, that White was able to get further assistance. At that 
date "he set sail with three ships from Plymouth, and passed by the West 
Indies. They staid some time there, to perform some exploits, which was to 
attack and plunder the Spaniards." They finally reached Hatteras: "There 
they descried a smoke, at the place where the colony had been three years 
before. The next morning they discharged some cannon to give notice of 
their arrival, they went ashore, but found no man nor signs of any, that 
had been there lately." They found engraved on a tree the word "Croatan," 
but searched in vain for the place. They made further search on Roanoke 
Island and elsewhere, but finally started again for the West Indies in 
search of more Spanish plunder, basely deserting their friends and 
relatives of the Colony.

Sir Walter Raleigh after making his assignment sent five several times to 
Virginia to search for the lost colonists, but they were never seen nor 
heard of afterwards. Some of the Jamestown colonists on their voyage up 
the James River "saw a savage boy about the age of 10 years which ad a 
head of hair of perfect yellow, and a reasonable white skin, which is a 
miracle amongst all savages." Some of the Indians reported that they had 
seen whites in the South, but to this day the fact of the Roanoke settlers 
is not known.



CHAPTER V. THE FOUNDING OF AN ENGLISH NATION IN AMERICA 

It was mainly through the efforts of Captain Bartholomew Gosnold that an 
attempt at colonization was made which resulted in making the final first 
permanent settlement in Virginia, he "having made former voyages (in 1602) 
to the northern parts of Virginia, and was so pleased with the places he 
saw, that he solicited all his friends and acquaintances to join with him 
in an attempt to settle that country." He finally "prevailed upon Capt. 
John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield, Reverend Robert Hunt, and divers 
others to join with him in the undertaking." Several of the noblemen, 
gentry, and merchants joined in the enterprise. Letters patent were 
obtained from King James I, bearing date 10th of April, 1606, naming 
certain persons for the "Southern colony," which settled in Tidewater 
Virginia, and certain other persons for the "Northern Colony," which 
finally settled in New England.

"The Southern," or "London," Colony was designed for the city of London, 
and such as would adventure with them to discover and choose a place of 
settlement between the degrees of 34th and 41st parallels of latitude. 
"The Northern," or "Plymouth," Company, was appropriated to the cities of 
Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, and the western parts of England, and all that 
would adventure with them, to make their choice between the degrees of 
38th and 45th parallels of latitude, provided there should be at least one 
hundred miles between the two colonies. 

The Charter from James I, dated April 10, 1606, begins by naming certain 
"loving and well disposed subjects * * * * that we would vouchsafe unto 
them our license to make Habitation, Plantation, and to deduce a Colony of 
sundry of our people unto that Part of America either appertaining unto 
us, or which are not actually possessed by an Christian Prince or People"

It granted all the territory between the 34th and 45th degrees of north 
latitude, and all islands within one hundred miles of coast. The 34th to 
the 45th parallels extend from a short distance south of Columbia, S. C., 
to the dividing line between what we know as Vermont and Canada. The strip 
from the 38th to the 41st parallels, comprising between the mouth of the 
Potomac to the southern end of Long Island Sound, was embraced in the 
charters of both the Southern and Northern Companies, and was thus open to 
settlement by both. Conflict of jurisdiction was avoided by the proviso 
that neither colony should establish within one hundred miles of any 
actual occupancy by the other. Half of this territory could be secured to 
the first who settled upon it and yet there would be one hundred miles 
left. The actual settlement of the Jamestown colony was begun near the 
37th parallel, while the Plymouth colony first settled at the 42nd 
parallel.

The Companies were to be governed each by a Council of thirteen persons 
resident in England. There was likewise to be a council in each colony to 
govern according to the laws, ordinances and instructions of the King,-he 
to appoint the Royal Council in England. They had the power to work mines, 
paying the King one-fifth of the gold and silver, and one-fifteenth of the 
copper mined. They had the power to coin money, and to levy duty on King's 
subjects trading with them.

The Council in England was empowered to name the Council to reside in 
Virginia. The President and Council in Virginia were constituted the 
supreme tribunals in all cases.

May 23, 1609, a second charter was granted to the London (Virginia) 
Company, by which it became an entirely distinct corporate body, and was 
under the management of a Special Royal Council in England, which included 
individual and corporate bodies of wealth and power.

By it the power which had formerly been reserved to the King was 
transferred to the Company-the power of choosing the Supreme Council in 
England, and also of legislating for the colony. It became a corporate 
body known as the "Treasurer and Company of Adventurers and Planters of 
the City of London for the First Colony in Virginia." The incorporators 
were fifty city companies of London, and nearly 700 persons, of whom there 
were knights, peers, ministers, doctors, esquires, gentlemen, captains, 
merchants, and others.

It gave the company "all those Lands, Countries, and Territories situate, 
lying and being in that part of America called Virginia, from the Point of 
Land called Cape or Point Comfort, all along the sea coast to the 
Northward 200 miles, and from said Point of Cape Comfort, all along the 
Sea Coast to the Southward 200 miles, and all that space and circuit of 
Land, lying from the Sea Coast of the Present aforesaid, up into the land, 
throughout from Sea to Sea, West and North West, and all the islands lying 
within 100 miles along the coast of both Seas of the Precinct aforesaid."

This charter extended the limits of Virginia to the Pacific Ocean. It 
embraced the entire northwest of North America; granting 400 miles along 
the coast-200 miles each way from Old Point Comfort. It supplanted the 
former president and council, and provided a governor and council instead, 
and gave them full power to correct, punish, pardon, govern and rule "all 
subjects as shall adventure in any voyage, or shall inhabit on the 
Precincts of the said Colony."

A third Charter by James I, dated March 12, 1612, confirmed and enlarged 
the privileges which had been granted under former charters, and extended 
the territory and jurisdiction to all islands and settlements withing 300 
miles of the coast of the main land. This added the Bermuda islands, which 
were soon thereafter sold to some of the members of the Company.

The colony when first started was a "proprietary" enterprise, and so 
continued until the second charter-1609-when it became a "corporation," 
and so continued under its third charter until the year 1624, when the 
corporation or company was declared null and void, the corporation 
dissolved, and the colony placed under the Royal Government of the King of 
England, and so it continued as "a Royal Province," until the Revolution, 
with the exception of the period when it was attempted to grant the whole 
of Virginia for a period of thirty-one years to a few of the favorites of 
the Crown, and the period during the short interval of Cromwell's reign.

On December 19, 1606, the colonists, composed of men and boys left 
Blackwalls, England, in three small ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed 
and Discovery to make their future home in the wilds of America. They were 
detained on the coast of England by contrary winds about six weeks. Their 
voyage to America was by the southern route.

"Your course securely steer,
West by south forth keep,
Rocks, lee shores, nor shoals
Where Eolus scowls,
You need not fear,
So absolute the deep."

"And cheerfully at sea
Success you still entice
To get the pearl and gold
And ours to hold
Virginia,
Earth's only Paradise."

The voyage was long and tedious, consuming more than four months from the 
start at Blackwalls to the landing at the Capes of Virginia, April 26, 
1607.

Thomas Studley, one of the "Gentlemen" colonists gives the following list 
of "names of the first planters left in Virginia," when Captain Newport 
returned to England, June 15, 1607.

Edward Maria Wingfield, Capt. John Radcliffe, Capt. John Martin, Capt. 
Bartholomew Gosnold, Capt. John Smith, Capt. George Kendall. These were 
the council appointed by the London Company. Winfield was selected as 
President by this Council for a year.

Mr. Robert Hunt, Preacher.

Those listed as "Gentlemen" were George Percie, Anthony Gosnall, Capt. 
Gabriell Archer, Rob. Ford, William Bruster, Dru Pickhouse, John Brooks, 
Thos. Sands, John Robinson, Ustis Colovill, Kellam Throgmorton, Nathaniel 
Powell, Robt. Beberbland, Jeremy Alicock, Thos. Studley, Richard Crofts, 
Nicholas Houlgrave, Thos. Webbe Jno. Walco, Wm. Tankard, Francis 
Scarsborough, Edward Brooks, Rich. Dixon, Jno. Martin, Cxeo. Martin, 
Anthony Gosnold, Thos. Wotton, Surg. Thos. Gore, Francis Midwinter.

The Carpenters were:

Wm. Laxon, Edward Pising, Thos. Emery, Rob. Small. 

The others were listed as follows: Anas Todkill, Jno. Capper, (no 
occupation indicated).

James Read, blacksmith; Jonas Profit, sailor; Thos. Cooper, barber; John 
Herd, bricklayer; Edward Printo, mason; William Love, tailor; Nic Skol, 
drum.

The laborers were: John Laydon, Win. Cassen, Geo. Cassen,(*) Thos. Casson, 
Wm. Rods, Wm. White, Ould Edward, Henry Tauin, Geo. Golding, Jno. Dods, 
Win. Johnson, Will Unger.

(* The latter named (Geo. Cassen) was one of the crew who accompanied 
Smith when he was captured up the Chickahominy River by Opechancanough, 
Powhatan's brother. Casson was first captured, and after he told of 
Smith's whereabouts he was stripped and tied to a tree, and his flesh torn 
off with clam shells, and his body burned.)

Will Wilkinson, Surgeon.

The boys were: Sam'l Collier, Nat. Pocock, Richard Mullin, Jas. Brumfield.

Studley ends the list with the statement that there were "divers others to 
the number of 105."

They were accompanied by between forty and fifty sailors, who were the 
crews of the three ships.

When the colonists embarked upon their journey, they knew not who would be 
their rulers in the new world. They only knew the expedition was to be in 
charge of Capt. Newport until Virginia was reached. Sealed orders from the 
Company naming the first president and council for the colony were given 
Newport. The evening of their arrival within the Capes of the Chesapeake, 
the box containing the orders was opened and read, and no doubt great 
surprise was manifested by some upon reading the name of Capt. John Smith 
as one of the first Council. During the voyage he had been accused of 
mutiny by Wingfield and others, and had since then been a prisoner. His 
trial took place after the colony was established at Jamestown. He was 
honorably acquitted and his accuser ordered to pay him a large sum of 
money, which Smith refused to accept for his personal use, and donated to 
the colony.

The size of the ships in which these colonists ventured across the wide 
Atlantic Ocean, indicates the meagre accomodations of the colonists during 
the four months cruise. A vessel's tonnage is estimated as 100 cubic feet 
to the ton, a little less in size than a cord of wood which is 128 cubic 
feet.

The tonnage and capacity of each of the three ships were as follows "Susan 
Constant," 100 tons burden, capacity to hold 78 cords of wood.

"Godspeed," 40 tons burden, capacity to hold 31 cords of wood. 

"Discovery," 20 tons burden, capacity to hold 15 1/2 cords of wood.

Few sailors of the present day would have the temerity to attempt to cross 
the Atlantic ocean in a vessel of but 20 tons burden.(*)

(* The largest vessel ever built was launched at the Clyde Bank Glasgow, 
Scotland, on June 7, 1906, named "Lusitania," of the Cunard Line. She is 
790 feet long, and her greatest breadth is 88 feet. Her displacement is 40,
000 tons, and she would therefore hold approximately, 31,250 cords of 
wood, as compared with the 15 cords which would load the colonist's ship 
named "Discovery.")

An interesting account of this memorable expedition was written by George 
Percy, or Pereie, a brother of the Earl of Northumberland, in whose honor 
a county in the Northern Neck of Virginia was named. He was a member of 
this first expedition to form a permanent settlement. When Captain John 
Smith returned to England in 1609, Percy was president in his stead, which 
office he held during "The Starving Time," in 1610, and later was 
Lieutenant-Governor. The history of the colony during the days they were 
seeking a final seating place can best be told in his own recital of those 
events.

He described the voyage to Virginia as beginning on Saturday, Dec. 20, 
1606, (other writers, Dec. 19), "the fleet fell from London, and the first 
of January we anchored in the Downer but the winds continued contrarie so 
long, that we were forced to stay there some time." He gives an 
interesting description of the places where the fleet stopped en route to 
Virginia, and the habits of the aborigines whom the colonists met, and 
with whom they exchanged trinkets for food. They left the West Indies on 
the tenth of April, and all went well with the fleet until "the one and 
twentieth day about five a clocke at night there began a vehement tempest, 
which lasted all the night, with winds, raine, and thunders in a terrible 
manner. Wee were forced to lie at Hull (bare poles) that night because wee 
thought wee had beene neerer land than wee were." The next three days they 
sounded the lead for land "but wee could find no ground at a hundred 
fathom."

"The sixth and twentieth day of Aprils, about fours a clock in the 
morning, wee descried the Land of Virginia; the same day wee entered into 
the Bay of Chesupioc directly, without let or hinderance; there wee landed 
and discovered a little way, but we could find nothing worth speaking of, 
but faire meddowes and goodly tall Trees, with such Freshwaters running 
through the woods, as I was almost ravished at the sight."

"At night, when wee were going aboard, there came the Savages creeping up 
on all foures, from the Hills like Beares, with their Bowes in their 
mouthes, charged us very desperately in the faces, hurt Captaine Gabrill 
Archer in both his hands, and a sayler (named Mather Morton) in two places 
of the body very dangerous. After they had spent their Arrowes, and felt 
the sharpnesse of our shot, they retired into the Woods with great noise, 
and so left us."

The first settlers probably cast their first anchor in Virginia waters 
some two or three miles westward of the present location of Cape Henry 
Light House, within the Chesapeake Bay, and nearly on a south line with 
the inland waters of what is now known as Broad Bay, end its adjoining 
waters, known as Lynn Haven Bay. This latter named place lies directly 
south of this anchorage, some seven or eight miles, where on the second 
day of their arrival they "marched 8 miles up into the land and came to a 
place where the Indians had beene newly a roasting oysters."

On April 29, 1896, the Association for the Preservation of Virginia 
Antiquities put upon the old light house at Cape Henry a bronze tablet 
with these words upon it:

"Near this spot landed April 26, 1607, Capt. Gabriell Archer, Hon. Geo. S. 
Percy, Christopher Newport, Bartholomew Gosnold, Edward Maria Wingfield, 
with 25 others, who calling the place Cape Henry, planted a cross April 
29, 1607.

"Del gratis Virginia condita,"

The "Savages" who gave the colonists this ungracious reception were of the 
(Chesapeake) Chesupioc tribe whose seat was near the head waters of Lynn 
Haven Bay. Their hostility was no doubt induced by the belief that the 
colonists were of the same class of white men who had made prior visits to 
these shores:(*)

(* After settlements were made in the West Indies, and parts of South 
America, and vessels began to traverse the seas of the new world for 
commercial purposes, there arose a desperately criminal class of men 
Spaniards and English mainly-who sailed the seas and explored the shores 
of America for plunder. They made frequent forays along the coasts, and 
into adjacent waters to capture the natives, whom they would sell as 
slaves to the planters. Piracy was of such frequent occurrence for more 
than a century after Virginia was settled that a court was specially 
provided by the colony for trial of pirates. Gov. Spotswood did much to 
clear the coast of Virginia from the incursions of Pirates.)

"The seven and twentieth day we began to build up our Shallop: the 
Gentlemen and Souldiers marched eight miles up into the Land, we could not 
see a Savage in all that march, we came to a place where they had made a 
great fire, and had beene newly a roasting Oysters: when they perceived 
our coming, they fled away to the Mountaines, and left many of the oysters 
in the fire: we eat some of the oysters, which were very large and 
delicate in taste."

"The eighth and twentieth we launched our Shallop, the Captaine and some 
Gentlemen went in her, and discovered up the Bay, we found a River (Lynn 
Haven Inlet) on the South side running into the Maine; we entered it and 
found it very shoal water, not for any Boats to swim: Wee went farther 
into the Bay, and saw a plaine plot of ground where we went on Land, and 
found the place five mile in compass, without either Bush or Tree, we saw 
nothing there but a Cannow, which was made out of the whole tree, which 
was five and fortie feet by the Rule. Upon this plot of ground we got good 
store of Mussels and Oysters, which lay on the ground as thick as stones: 
wee opened some, and found in many of them Peerless. We marched some three 
or four miles further into the Woods, where we saw great smoakes of fire. 
We marched to those smoakes and found that the Savages had been burning 
down the grass, as wee thought either to make their plantation there, or 
else to give signs to bring their forces together, and to give us battel. 
We past through excellent ground of Flowers of divers kinds and colours, 
and as goodly trees as I have ever seen, as Cedar, Cypresse, and other 
kindes, going a little further we came into a little plat of ground full 
of fine and beautiful Strawberries, foure times bigger and better than 
ours in England. All this march we could neither see Savage nor Towne."

The same evening towards dusk while attempting to enter James River they 
struck "Willoughby Spit," the eastern end of Hampton Roads, where they 
"found shallow water for a great way," which put them out of all hopes for 
getting any higher with their ships, which then "road at the mouth of the 
River."

They rowed to a point of land on the opposite side of Hamton Roads, where 
they found a channel "with 6, 8, 10, or 12 fathom," which put us in good 
comfort. Therefore we named that point of Land Cape Comfort."This is now 
known as "Old Point Comfort," situated at the entrance to Hampton Roads.

"The nine and twentieth day we set up a crosse at Chesupioc Bay, and named 
the Cape Henry."

The colonists brought their ships into the James River and were the 
invited guests of the Indians to a feast, a dance, and a "smoker," at the 
village of Kecoughtan, now the town of Hampton. Here the colonists for the 
first time came in friendly contact with their new neighbors, and 
witnessed many strange things. To men reared in the civilized precincts of 
London, these must have been novel scenes.

The thirtieth day, we came with our ships to Cape Comfort; where we saw 
five Savages running on the shoare; presently the Captaine caused the 
Shallop to be manned, so rowing to the shoare, the captaine called to them 
in signe of friendship, but they were at first timersome until they saw 
the Captaine lay his hand on his heart: upon that they laid down their 
Bowes and Arrowes, and came very boldly to us, making signes to come a 
shoare to their Towne, which is called by the Savages Kecoughtan (now 
Hampton). Wee coasted to their Towne, rowing over a River running into the 
Maine, where these Savages swam over with their Bowes and Arrowes in their 
mouthes.

"When we came to the other side, there was a many of other Savages which 
directed us to their Towne, where we were entertained by them very kindly. 
When we came first a Land they made a doleful noise, laying their faces to 
the ground, scratching the earth with their miles. We did thinke that they 
had beene at their idolatry. When they ended their Ceremonies they went 
into their houses and brought out mats and laid upon the ground, the 
chiefest of them sate all in a rank: the meanest sort brought us such 
dainties as they had, and of their bread which they make of their Maiz or 
Genne wheat, they would not suffer us to eat unlesse we sate down, which 
we did on a Mat right against them. After we were satisfied they gave us 
of their- Tobacco, which they tooke in a pipe made artificially of earth 
as ours are, but far bigger, with the bowie fashioned together with a 
piece of fine copper. After they had feasted us, they shewed us, in 
welcome, their manner of dancing, which was in this fashion: one of the 
Savages standing in the midst singing, beating one hand against mother, 
all the rest dancing about him, shouting, howling, and stamping against 
the ground, with many anticke tricks and faces, making noise like so many 
Wolves or Devils. One thing of them I observed; when they were in their 
dance they kept stroke with their feet just one with another, but with 
their hands, faces, and bodies, with another, but with their hands, heads, 
faces, and bodies, every one of them had a severall gesture: so they 
continued for the space of an houre. When they had ended their dance, the 
Captaine gave them Beades and other trifling Jewells. They hang through 
their eares Fowles legs: they shave the right side of their heads with a 
shell, the left side they wcare of an ell long tied up with an artificial 
knot, with a, many of Foules feathers sticking in it. They goe altogether 
naked, but their privities are covered with Beasts skinnes beset commonly 
with little bones, or beasts teeth: some paint their bodies blacke, some 
red, with artificiall knots of sundry lively colours, very beautifull and 
pleasing to the eye, in a braver fashion than they in the West Indies."

Notwithstanding this hospitable welcome and generous entertainment by 
these Indians to the white strangers, Sir Thomas Gates in 1610 drove all 
this tribe from Kecoughtan (Hampton), and took their lands for the use of 
a colony which he settled there.

Aside from St. Augustine, Florida, and Santa Fe, New Mexico, Hampton is 
the oldest continuous settlement of a town in America.

The colonists next met with the king of Paspiha who lived in what is now 
James City County, and who later gave the colonists the land of Jamestown. 
While in his company the king of Rappahanna, hearing of the strangers, 
came in his canoe to extend an invitation to them to visit his town. They 
visit the king next day, and for the first time in the new world, as they 
heard an Indian playing a flute, and they learned much of the customs of 
their new neighbors during this visit.

"The fourth day of May, we came to the King or Werowane of Paspihe: where 
they entertained us with much welcome: an old Savage made a long Oration, 
making a foule noise, uttering his speech with a vehement action, but we 
knew little what they meant. While we were in company with the Paspihes, 
the Werowance of Rappahanna came from the other side of the River in his 
Cannoa: he seemed to take displeasure at our being with the Paspihes: he 
would faine have had us come to his Towne, the Captaine was unwilling: 
seeing that the day was so far spent he returned backe to his ships for 
that night."

"The next day, being the fifth of May, the Werowance of Rappahanna sent a 
Messenger to have us come to him. We entertained the said Messenger, and 
gave him trifles which pleased him: Wee manned our shallop with Muskets 
and Targatiers sufficiently; this said Messenger guided us where our 
determination was to goe. When we landed, the Werowance of Rappahanna came 
downe to the water side with all his traine, as goodly men as any I have 
scene of Savages or Christians; the Werowance coming before them playing 
on a Flute made of a Reed, with a Crown of Deare's haire, colloured red, 
in fashion of a Rose fastened about his knot of haire, and a great Plate 
of Copper on the other side of his head, with two long Feathers in fashion 
of a paire of Hornes placed in the midst of his Crowne. His body was 
painted all with ,Crimson, with a Chaine of Beads about his necke, his 
face painted blew, besprinkled with silver Ore as we thought (mica dust 
probably), his cares all behung with Braslets of Pearle, and in either 
care a Birds Claw through it beset with fine Copper or Gold, he 
entertained us in so modest a proud fashion, as though he had beene a 
Prince of Civill government, holding his countenance without laughter or 
any such ill behaviour; he caused his Mat to be spred on the ground, where 
bee sate downe with a great Majestic, taking a pipe of Tobacco: the rest 
of his company standing about him. After he had rested awhile he rose, and 
made signos to us to come to his Towne. Hee went formost, and all the rest 
of his people and ourselves followed him up a steepe Hill where his Palace 
was settled. We passed through the Woods in fine paths, having most 
pleasant Springs which issued from the Mountains: We also went through the 
goodliest Corne fielder that there ever seene in any countrey. When we 
came to Rappahannas Towne, he entertained us in good humanitie."

The chief of the Appomattox tribe who lived at what is now Bermuda 
Hundred, Chesterfield County, bade them defiance, demanding their business 
upon his territory and desired that they should be gone, but at last 
permitted their "landing in quietness."

"The eight of May wee discovered up the River. We landed in the countrey 
of Apamatica, at our landing, there came many stout and able Savages to 
resist us with their Bowes and Arrowes, in a most warlike manner, with the 
swords at their backes beset with sharpe stones, and pieces of iron able 
to cleave a man in sunder. Amongst the rest one of the chiefest standing 
before them crosse legged, with his Arrow readie in his Bow in one hand, 
and taking a Pipe of Tobacco in the other, with a bold uttering of his 
speech, demanded of us our being there, willing us to bee gone. Wee made 
signs of peace, which they perceived in the end, and let us land in 
qnietnesse."

They were almost determined to settle at Archers Hope, but finally decide 
upon a point of land which they afterwards named Jamestown.

"The twelfth day we went backe to our ships, and discovered a point of 
Land, called Archers Hope, which was sufficient with a little harbour to 
defend ourselves against an enemy. The soile was good and fruitfull, with 
excellent good Timber. There are also stores of Vines in bignesse of a 
mans thigh running up to the tops of the Trees in great abundance. We also 
did see many Squirrels, Conies, Black Birds with crimson wings, and divers 
other Fowles and Birds of divers and sundrie colours of crimson."

"We found store of Turkee nests and many Egges, if it had not beene 
disliked, because the ship could not ride neere the shoare, we had settled 
there to all the Collonies contentment."

The thirteenth day, we came to our seating place in Paspihans Countrey, 
some eight miles from the point of Land, which I made mention before; 
where our shippes doe lie so neare the shoare that they are moored to the 
Trees in six fathom water."

The fourteenth day they completed the landing of men and stores and set to 
work building fortifications which they did not finish until the middle of 
June following.

Thus began at Jamestown on May 14th, the first permanent settlement of 
English speaking people upon the continent of America, and with this small 
beginning, and upon this small plot of ground sprang the first aspirations 
for the freedom which culminated in our present form of government.

They took possession of this land without leave, or license, other than 
their doubtful chartered authority from the King of England, 
notwithstanding the lands were occupied by a nearby tribe, known as the 
Paspihas, whose chief or king generously sent them word by his messengers, 
who were gorgeously decorated by him for the occasion, that he was coming 
to visit his white neighbors, and bring them a fat deer and be merry with 
them.

When he last met them, on May 4th, he did not know they would settle upon 
his lands, nevertheless it does not appear that he objected, for on the 
fourth day after their seating, Paspiha came to Jamestown accompanied by 
one hundred of his scantily clothed warriors, but each of them gorgeous 
with feathers, and paint, to make merry with the whites. The colonists 
mistrusted the object of the visit because they came armed and instead of 
making merry with him and his followers, they soon quarreled with one of 
his men, and beat him severely because he picked up one of their hatchets, 
perhaps from curiosity. Their treatment so disgusted Paspiha that he "went 
suddenly away with all his company in great anger." Before leaving, 
however, he "made signes that he would give as much land as we would 
desire to take." Two days later he sent them a deer. A trick was played 
upon one of the Indians who came with the deer, by one of the whites 
setting up a target of wood through which he boastfully shot his arrow; 
they next set up a target of steel, and upon shooting again he "burst his 
arrow all to pieces," at which he was so maddened that he drew another 
arrow and "bit it in his teeth, and seemed to be in a great rage, so he 
went away in great anger."

This hospitable Savage subsequently, at the instigation of Powhatan, and 
because of some injustice inflicted upon his tribe by the colonists, laid 
in wait at the glass house near Jamestown for the purpose of assassinating 
Captain John Smith. On this occasion, Paspiha nearly succeeded in drowning 
Smith, but the latter finally conquered the Indian, and was upon the point 
of running his sword through him, when the savage begged piteously for his 
life. Smith forced him to march to Jamestown, where he was put in prison, 
but in a few days he effected his escape.

In 1610, the colonists under Lord Delaware drove the tribe of Paspiha off 
their lands, burnt their houses, took the wife and children of this chief 
prisoners and slew them.(*)

(* The first colonists, whether at Roanoke or Virginia, were unfortunately 
ungrateful for past favors received at the hands of the aborigines of the 
new world as instanced in the killing of Wingina, and of Paspiha's wife 
and children, all of whom should have been the recipients of the best of 
treatment at the hands of the English.)

The Colony selected an inland seating place according to "Instructions." 
The colonists overlooked and passed by regions of plenty, where the lands 
were fertile, and the forests were filled with wild game, and the salt 
waters teemed with the bounteous stores of nature, and seated instead upon 
a barren island where the surrounding waters were neither salt nor fresh. 
They doubtless were guided in their selection of this seating place by 
their "Instructions" from the Company, "to be followed on landing."

Where it shall please God to send you on the Coast of Virginia, you shall 
do your best endeavour to find out a safe port in the entrance of some 
navigable river, making choice of such a one as runneth farthest into the 
land. When you have made choice of the river on which you mean to settle, 
be not hasty in loading your vituals and munitions, but first let Captain 
Newport discover how far that river may be found navigable, that you make 
selection of the strongest, most wholesome and fertile place, for if you 
make many removes, besides loss of time, you shall greatly spoil your 
vituals and your casks.

"But if you choose your place so far up as a bark of 50 tons will float, 
then you may lay all your provisions ashore with ease, and the better 
receive the trade of all the countries about you in the land, and such a 
place you may perchance find a hundred miles from the rivers mouth, and 
the further up the better, for if you set down near the entrance, except 
it be in some island that is strong by nature, an enemy that may approach 
you on even ground may easily put you out; and if he be driven to seek you 
a hundred miles the land in boats, you shall from both sides of the river 
where it is narrowest, so beat them with your muskets as they shall never 
be able to prevail against you.

"Neither must you plant in a low or moist place, because it will prove 
unhealthful. You shall judge of the good air by the people, for some part 
of the Coast where the lands are low have their people blear eyed, and 
with swollen bellies and legs, but if the naturals be strong and clean 
made it is a sign of a wholesome soil."

Jamestown Island, the final seating place, and the first capital of the 
colony,(*) lies on the north side of James River, in James City County, 
within the Tidewater Division known as "The Peninsula," about thirty-two 
miles from the mouth of the river. It averages two and a half miles in 
length and three-quarters miles in breadth-about 1,700 acres. It is 
surrounded on three sides by James River, and on the north side by Back 
River, which separates it from the mainland. The island itself, and the 
surrounding country contains little evidence of the struggles of its early 
inhabitants. There is standing the ruins of the brick church; a lonely 
monument to the drudgery, the toil, and the labors of the ninety-one years 
spent by the colonists in their endeavors to build up and maintain a 
capital city.(**)

(* At the date of their seating at Jamestown, the only other settlements 
of whites within the present limits of the United States, including the 
territories, were at St. Augustine, Florida, founded in 1565, and at Santa 
Fe. New Mexico, settled in 1582. Prior to the naming of "Virginia" by 
Queen Elizabeth, the whole of the continent on the Atlantic shores was 
referred to indefinitely as Florida.)

(** The seat of government was maintained at Jamestown, from 1607 to 1698, 
ninety one years, after which it was removed to Williamsburg.)

It was in the "Peniusula Division" of Tidewater Virginia that the 
colonists laid their greatest hardships and struggles, and the most 
depressing as well as the most successful and joyous periods of their 
early history as a colony. It was while Jamestown was the seat of 
government that they experienced all the sensations of famine, disease, 
despair, and massacre by the savage natives, to which was added civil war 
amongst themselves through Bacon's rebellion which destroyed many homes 
and made the town a waste place.

Captain John Smith in one of his narratives, describes the first days of 
settlement upon Jamestown island: "When I went first to Virginia, I well 
remember we did hang an awning which is an old sail to three or four trees 
to shadow us from the sun; our walls were rails of wood, our seats unhewed 
trees till we cut planks; our pulpit a bar of wood nailed to two 
neighboring trees; in fine weather we shifted into an old rotten tent, for 
we had no better. The best of our houses were of the like curiosity but 
for the most part, much worse workmanship that neither could well defend 
wind or rain."

The great abundance which the colonists found in their new home was 
described by George Percy, one of the gentlemen colonists in his letter 
relative to the James River:

This river which we have discovered is one of the famousest Rivers that 
ever was found by any Christian, it ebbes and flower a hundred and three 
score miles where ships of great burthen may harbour in safetie. 
Wheresoever we landed upon this River, we saw the goodliest Woods as 
Beach, Oke, Cedar,(*) Cypress, Walnuts, Sassafras, and Vines in great 
abundance which clusters on in many Trees, and all the grounds bespread 
with strawberries, mulberries, Rasberries, and Fruits unknowne, there are 
many branches of this River which runne flowing through the Woods with 
great plentie of Fish of all kinds, as for Sturgeoon, all the World cannot 
be compared to it. There is also a great store of Deere both Red and 
Fallow. There are Bearer, Foxes, Otters, Beavers, Muskrats, and wild 
beasts unknowne." Notwithstanding this great abundance, the colonists 
during their first few years of settlement suffered much for want of food. 
This was due to the fact that the greater number of them were unfitted by 
experience, or inclination, to the new surroundings. The majority of them 
was brought up in cities or towns of England, with no experience in rural 
life. Many of them were registered as gentlemen-a class between the nobles 
and peasants,-some of wham were too proud to work and too poor to live 
without labor. Others were named as mechanics or laborers, but none were 
experienced in woodcraft, nor in the labors of rural life, nor as sailors 
nor fishermen.(**)

(* It will be noticed that Percy does not mention the Pines. He mistook 
the pine trees far Cedars with which he was most familiar.)

(** Captain Smith describes in one of his narratives his crew of twelve 
men which he had with him on one of his voyages of discovery: "Not a 
mariner, or any that had skill to trim their sayles, use their ogres, or 
any business belonging to the Barge but 2 or 3. The rest being Gentlemen, 
or as ignorant in such toyle and labour, yet necessity, in a short time by 
their Captaines diligence and example taught them to become perfect.")

When Smith became president, he put the gentlemen and others to work. He 
told them "the sick shall not starve, but equally share of all our 
labours, and every one that gathereth not every day as much as I doe, the 
next daie shall be set beyond the river and be banished from the fort and 
live there or starve."

One of the colonists, himself a gentleman no doubt, describes the 
pleasure, and recreation which some of the gentlemen colonists who came 
with the second expedition to Jamestown, had in chopping trees in the 
woods under the chosen direction of Captain Smith.

"Amongst the rest he (Smith) had chosen Gabriel Beadell and John Russell, 
the only two gallants of this last supply, and both proper gentlemen; 
strange were these pleasures to their conditions, yet lodging, eating, 
drinking, working, or playing they doeing but as the President, all these 
things were carried on so pleasantly as within a weeke they became masters 
(proficient), making it their delight to hear the trees thunder as they 
fell, but the axes so oft blistered their fingers that every third blow 
had a loud oath to drowne the echo, for remedy of which sin the President 
devised how to have every man's oath numbered, and at night for every oath 
to have a can of water poured down his sleeve, with which every offender 
was so washed (himself and all) that a man should scarce hear an oath in a 
week."

Sir George Percy wrote more of conditions at Jamestown:

"Our men were destroyed with ceverell diseases as Swellings, Fluxes, 
Burning Fevers, and by Warres, and some departed suddenly, but for the 
most part they died of famine. There were never Englishmen left in a 
foreign Countrey in such miserie as wee were in this new discovered 
Virginia. Our food was but a small can of Barlie sod in Water to five men 
a day, our drinke cold water taken out of the River, which was at a flood 
verie salt, at a low tide full of slime and filth, which was the 
destruction of our men. Thus we lived for a space of five months in this 
miserable distress. It please God, after a while, to send these people 
which were our mortall enemies to relieve us with victuals, as Bread, 
Corne, Fish and Flesh in great plentie, * * * otherwise we had all 
perished." They drank the briny, sickening waters from the James River for 
more than twelve months before digging a well. Their failure to guard and 
take care of their ship's cargo of food resulted in its destruction by 
decay and by rats, and their consequent starvation followed. They paid 
little or no attention to sanitary precautions within the town, and 
diseases followed their neglect. They were totally lacking in the 
experiences required in their new surroundings.