History of Western North Carolina - Chapters 9-10



CHAPTER IX.
PIONEER PREACHERS

SOLITUDE AND RELIGION. The isolation of the early settlers was conducive
to religious thoughts, especially among the uneducated ministry of that
day. This is impressively told in the following paragraph:

"There was naught in the scene to suggest to a mind familiar with the
facts an oriental landscape -- naught akin to the hills of Judea. Yet,
ignorance has license. It never occtrrred to Teck Jepson [a local preacher
in the novel] that his biblical heroes had lived elsewhere... He brooded
upon the Bible narratives, instinct with dramatic movement, enriched with
poetic color, and localized in his robust imagination, till he could trace
ilagar's wild wanderings in the fastnesses; could show where Jacob slept
and piled his altar of stones; could distinguish the hush, of all others
on the "bald," that blazed with fire from heaven when the angel of the
Lord stood within it;... saw David, the stripling, running and holding
high in his right hand the bit of cloth cut from Saul's garments while the
king had slept in a cave at the base of Cbilhowie mountain. And how was
the splendid miracle of translation discredited because Jepson believed
that the chariot of the Lord had rested in scarlet and purple clouds upon
the towering summit of Thunderhead that Elijah might thence ascend into
heaven?"(1)

EARLY PREACHERS. Staunton, Lexington and Abingdon, Virginia, and
Jonesboro, Tenn., and Morganton, N. C., have been largely Presbyterian
from their earliest beginning. Not so, however, Western North Carolina in
which the Baptists and Methodists got the "start" and have maintained it
ever since, notwithstanding the presence almost from the first of the Rev.
George Newton and many excellent ministers of the Presbyterian faith since
his day. The progress of the Methodists was due largely, no doubt, to the
frequent visits of Bishop Asbury.

THE FIRST METHODIST BISHOP. "In the year 1800 Bishop Francis Asbury began
to include the French Broad valley in his annual visits throughout the
eastern part of the United States, which extended as far west as Kentucky
and Tennessee."(2) He was so encouraged by the religious hunger he
discovered in these mountain coves that he continued his visits till
November, 1813, notwithstanding the rough fare he no doubt frequently had
to put up with. Following extracts are from his "Journal":

AT WARM SPRINGS IN 1800.
(Thursday, November 6, 1800) "Crossed Nolachucky at Querton's Ferry, and
came to Major Craggs', 18 miles. I next day pursued my journey and arrived
at Warm Springs, not, however, without an ugly accident. After we had
crossed the Small and Great Paint mountain, and had passed about thirty
yards beyond the Paint Rock, my roan horse, led by Mr. O'Haven, reeled and
fell over, taking the chaise with him; I was called back, when I beheld
the poor beast and the carriage bottom up, lodged and we ged against a
sapling, which alone prevented them both being precipitated into the
river. After a pretty heavy lift all was righted again, an we were pleased
to find there was little damage done. Our feelings were excited more for
others than ourselves. Not far off we saw clothing spread out, part of the
loading of household furniture of a wagon which had overset and was thrown
into the stream, and bed clothes, bedding, etc., were so wet that the poor
people found it necessary to dry them on the spot. We passed the side
fords of French Broad and came to Mr. Nelson's; our mountain march of
twelve miles calmed us down for this day. My company was not agreeable
here-there were too many subjects of the two great potentates of this
Western World whisky, brandy. My mind was greatly distressed."

CURIORSLY CONTRIVED ROPE AND POLE FERRY.
"North Carolina, Saturday 8. We started away. The cold was severe upon the
fingers. We crossed the ferry, curiously contrived with a rope and pole,
for half a mile along the banks of the river, to guide the boat by. And 0
the rocks! the rocks! Coming to Laurel river, we followed the wagon ahead
of us-the wagon stuck fast. Brother O'H. mounted old Gray-the horse fell
about midway, but recovered, rose, and went safely through with his
burden. We pursued our way rapidly to Ivy creek, suffering much from heat
and the roughness of the roads, and stopped at William Hunter's."

AT THOMAS FOSTER'S.
"Sabbath Day, 9. We came to Thomas Foster's, and held a small meeting at
his house. We must bid farewell to the chaise; this mode of conveyance by
no means suits the roads of this wilderness. We obliged to keep one behind
the carriage with a strap to hold by, and prevent accidents almost
continually. I have health and hard labor, and a constant sense of the
favor of God."

BLACKSMITH, CARPENTER, COBBLER, SADDLER AND HATTER.
"Tobias Gibson had given notice to some of my being at Buncombe
courthouse, and the society at Killyon's, In consequence of this, made an
appointment for me on Tuesday, 11. We were strongly importuned to stay,
which Brother Whatcoat felt inclined to do. In the meantime we had our
horses shod by Philip Smith; this man, as is not infrequently the case in
this country, makes wagons and works at carpentry, makes shoes for men and
for horses; to which he adds, occasionally the manufacture of saddles and
hats."

REV. GEORGE NEWTON AT METHODIST SERVICE.
"Monday, 10. Visited Squire Swain's agreeable family. On Tuesday we
attended our appointment. My foundation for a sermon was Heb. ii, 1. We
had about eighty hearers; among them was Mr. Newton, a Presbyterian
minister, who made the concluding prayer. We took up our journey and came
to Foster's upon Swansico (Swannanoa)-company enough, and horses in a
drove of thirty-three. Here we met Francis Poythress-sick of Carolina-and
in the clouds. I, too, was sick. Next morning we rode to Fletcher's, on
Mud creek. The people being unexpectedly gathered together, we gave them a
sermon and an exhortation lodged at Fletcher's."

A LECTURE AT BEN. DAVIDSON'S.
"Thursday, 13. We crossed French Broad at Kim's Ferry, forded Mills river,
and made upwards t9 the barrens of Broad to Davidson's, whose name names
the stream. The aged mother and daughter insisted upon giving notice for a
meeting; In consequence thereof Mr. Davis, the Presbyterian minister, and
several others came together. Brother Whatcoat was taken with a bleeding
at the nose, so that necessity was laid upon me to lecture; my subject was
Luke xi 13."

DESCRIBES THE FRENCH BROAD.
"Friday, 14. We took our leave of French Broad-the lands flat and good,
but rather cold. I have had an opportunity of making a tolerably correct
survey of this river. It rises in the southwest, and winds along in many
meanders, fifty miles northeast, receiving a number of tributary streams
in its course; it then inclines westward, passing through Buncombe in
North Carolina, and Green and Dandridge counties in Tennessee, in which
last it is augmented by the waters of Nolachucky. Four miles above
Knoxville it forms a junction with the Holston, and their united waters
flow along under the name of Tennessee, giving a name to the State. We had
no small labor in getting down Saluda mountain."

AGAIN AT WARM SPRINGS.
In October, 1801, we find this entry: "Monday, October 5. We parted in
great love. Our company made twelve miles to Isaiah Harrison's, and next
day reached the Warm Springs upon French Broad river.

"MAN AND BEAST 'FELT THE MIGHTY HILLS.'"
"Wednesday, 7. We made a push for Buncombe courthouse: man and beast felt
the mighty hills. I shall calculate from Baker's to this place one hundred
and twenty miles; from Philadelphia, eight hundred and twenty miles."

RESTING AT GEORGE SWAIN'S.
"Friday, 9. Yesterday and today we rested at George Swain's.

QUARTERLY MEETING AT DANIEL KILLON'S.
"Sabbath Day, 11. Yesterday and today had quartefly meeting at Daniel
Killon's, near Buncombe courthouse. I spoke from Isa. I and I Cor. vii, 1.
We bad some quickenings."

A SERMON FROM N. SNETHEN.
"Monday, 12. We came to Murroughs, upon Mud creek; he~ had a sermon from
N. Snethen on Acts xiv, 15. Myself and James that gave an exhortation. We
had very warm weather and a long [missing]. At Major Britain's, near the
mouth of Mills river, we found a lodge [missing].

AT ELDER DAVEDSON's. "Tuesday, 13. We came in haste up to elder
Davidson's, refres man and beast, commended the family to God, and then
struck into mountains. The want of sleep and other inconveniences made me
[missing]. We came down Sniuda River, near Saluda Mountain: it tried my
[missing] feet and old feeble joints. French Broad, in its meanderings, is
near two hundred miles long; the line of its course is semi-circular; its
waters are pure, rapid, and its bed generally rocky, except the Blue
Ridge; passes through all the western mountains."

AT WILLIAM NELSON'S AT WARM SPRINGS. Again in November, 1802, we find this
entry: "Wednesday, 3. We labored over the Ridge and the Paint Mountain: I
held on awhile, but grew afraid of this mountain, and with the help of a
pine sapling worked my way down the steepest and roughes parts. I could
bless God for life and limbs. Eighteen miles this day contented us, and we
stopped at William Nelson's, Warm Springs. About thirty travelers having
dropped in, I expounded the scriptures to them, as found in the third
chapter of Romans, as equally applicable to nominal Christians, Indians,
Jews, and Gentiles."

DINNER AT BARNETT'S STATION. "Thursday, 4. We came off about the rising of
the sun, cold enough. There were six or seven heights to pass over, at the
rate of five, two or one mile an hour as this ascent or descent would
permit: four hours brought us to the end of twelve miles to dinner, at
Barnett's station; whence we pushed on to John (Thomas) Foster's, and
after making twenty miles more, came in about the going down of the sun.
On Friday and Saturday we visited from house to house."

"DEAR WILLIAM MCKENDREE."
"Sunday, 7. We had preaching at Killon's. William MeKendree went forward
upon 'as many as are led by the Spirit of God, they are the sons of God;'
my subject was Heb. iii, 12, 13. On Monday I parted from dear William
McKendree. I made for Mr. Fletcher's, upon Mud creek; be received me with
great attention, and the kind offer of everything in the house necessary
for the comfort of man and beast. We could not be prevailed on to tarry
for the night, so we set off after dinner and he accompanied us several
miles. We housed for the night at the widow Johnson's. I was happy to find
that in the space of two years, God had manifested his goodness and his
power in the hearts of many upon the solitary banks and isolated glades of
French Broad; some subjects of grace there were before, amongst
Methodists, Presbyterians and Baptists. On Tuesday I dined at Benjamin
Davidson's, a house I had lodged and preached at two years ago. We labored
along eighteen miles, eight ascent, on the west side, and as many on the
east side of the mountain. The descent of Saluda exceeds all I know, from
the Province of Maine to Kentucky and Cumberland; I had dreaded it,
fearing I should not be able to walk or ride such steeps; nevertheless,
with time, patience, labor, two sticks and above all, a good Providence I
came in about five o'clock to ancient father John Douthat's, Greenville
County, South Carolina."

AGAIN AT NELSON'S. On October, 1803, we meet with this entry:

"North Carolina. On Monday, we came off in earnest; refreshed at Isaiah
Harrison's, and continued on to the Paint Mountain, passing the gap newly
made, which makes the road down to Paint Creek much better. I lodged with
Mr. Nelson, who treated me like a minister, a Christian and a gentleman."

IVY HAD BEEN BRIDGED IN 1803.
"Tuesday, 25. We reached Buncombe. The road is greatly mended by changing
the direction, and throwing a bridge over Ivy."

SISTERS KILION AND SMITH DEAD.
"Wednesday, 26. We called a meeting at Kilion's, and a gracious season it
was: my subject was I Cor. xv, 38. Sister Kilion and Sister Smith, sisters
in the flesh, and kindred spirits in holiness and humble obedience, are
both gone to their reward in glory. On Thursday we came away in haste,
crossed Swamoat (Swannanoa) at T. Foster's, the French Broad at the High
(Long) Shoals, and afterwards again at Beard's Bridge, and put up for the
night at Andrew Mitchell's: In our route we passed two large encamping
places of the Methodists and Presbyterians: it made country look like the
Holy Land."

HE ESCAPES FROM FILTH, FLEAS, AND RATTLESNAKES.
"Friday, 28. We came up Little River, a sister stream of French Broad: it
offered some beautiful flats of land. We found a new road, lately cut,
which brought us in at the head of Little River at the old fording place,
and within hearing of the falls, a few miles off of the head of Matthews
Creek, a branch of the Saluda. The waters foaming down the rocks with a
descent of half a mile, make themselves heard at a great distance. I
walked down the mountain, after riding sixien or eighteen miles; before
breakfast, and came in about twelve o'clock to father John Douthat's; once
more I have escaped from filth, fleas, rattlesnakes, hills, mountains,
rocks, and rivers; farewell, western world, for awhile!"

AT FLETCHER'S ON MUD CREEK. Again in October 1805 we find the following
entry:

"North Carolina. We came into North Carolina and lodged with Wm. Nelson,
at the Hot Springs. Next day we stopped with Wilson in Buncombe. On
Wednesday I breakfasted with Mr. Newton. Presbyterian minister, a man
after my own mind: we took sweet counsel together. We lodged this evening
at Mr. Fletcher's, Mud Creek. At Colonel Thomas's, on Thursday, we were
kindly received and hospitably entertained."

BEDS A BENCH AND DIRT FLOOR OF SCHOOL HOUSE. Again in September, 1806, we
find the following entry:

"Wednesday, 24. We came to Buncombe: we were lost within a mile of Mr.
Killion's (Killian's), and were happy to get a school house to shelter us
for the night. I had no fire, but a bed wherever I could find a bench; my
aid, Moses Lawrence, had a bear skin and a dirt floor to spread it on."

HIS FOOD BRINGS BACK HIS AFFLICTION.
"Friday, 26. My affliction returned: considering the food, the labor the
lodging, the hardships I meet with and endure it is not wonderful. Thanks
be to God! we had a generous rain -- may it be general through the
settlement!"

CAMP MEETING ON TURKEY CREEK.
"Saturday, 27. I rode twelve miles to Turkey Creek, to a kind of camp
meeting. On the Sabbath, I preached to about five hundred souls it was an
open season and a few souls professed converting grace."

RODE THROUGH SWANINO RIVER.
"Monday, 29. Raining. We had dry weather during the meeting. There were
eleven sermons and many exhortations. At noon it clears up, and gave us an
opportunity of riding home: my mind enjoyed peace. but my body felt the
effect of riding. On Tuesday I went to a house to preach: I rode through
Swanino River, and Cane and Hooper's Creeks."

LITTLE AND GREAT HUNGER MOUNTAIN.
"North Carolina, Wednesday, October 1. I preached at Samuel Edney's. Next
day we had to cope with Little and Great Hunger mountains. Now I know what
Mill's Gap is, between Buncombe and Rutherford. One of the descents is
like the roof of a house, for nearly a mile: I rode, I walked, I sweat, I
trembled, and my old knees failed; here are gulleys and rocks, and
precipices; nevertheless the way is as good as the path over the Table
Mountain-bad is the best. We came upon Green River."

WARM SPRINGS IN 1807. Again in October, 1807, we find the following entry:

"Friday 16. We reached Wamping's (Warm Springs). I suffered much today;
but an hour's warm bath for my feet relieved me considerably. On Saturday
we rode to Killon's."

GEORGE NEWTON, AN ISRAELITE INDEED.
"North Carolina, Sabbath, 18. At Buncombe courthouse I spoke from 2 Kings,
vli, 13-15. The people were all attention. I spent a night under the roof
of my very dear brother in Christ, George Newton, a Presbyterian minister,
an Israelite Indeed. On Monday we made Fletcher's; next day dined at
Terry's, and lodged at Edwards. Saluda ferry brought us up on Wednesday
evening."

LABORED AND SUFFERED, BUT LIVED NEAR GOD. Again in October, 1808, we find
the following entry:

"On Tuesday we rode twenty miles to the Warm Springs, and next day reached
Buncombe, thirty-two miles. The right way to improve a short day is to
stop ouly to feed the horses, and let the riders meanwhile take a bite of
what they have been provident enough to put into their pockets. It has
been a serious October to me. I have labored and suffered; but I have
lived near to God."

MR. IRWON (ERWIN), A CHIEF MAN.
"North Carolina, Saturday, 29. We rested for three days past We fell in
with Jesse Richardson: He could not bear to see the fields of Buncombe
deserted by militiamen, who fire a shot and fly, and wheel and fire, and
run again; he is a veteran who has learned to endure hardness like a good
soldier of the Lord Jesus Christ. On the Sunday I preached in Buncombe
courthouse upon I Thess. i, 7-10. I lodged with a chief man a Mr. Irwon.
Henry Boehm went to Pigeon Creek to preach to the Dutch."

WOOTENPILE ASKS PAY IN PRAYER. In October, 1909, we find:

"We crossed the French Broad and fed our horses at the gate of Mr.
Wootenpile (Hoodenpile); he would accept no pay but prayer; as I had never
called before he may have thought me too proud to stop. Our way now lay
over dreadful roads. I found old Mr. Barnett sick-the ease was a dreadful
one, and I gave kim a grain of tartar and a few composing drops, which
procured him a sound sleep. The patient was very thankful and would charge
us nothing. Here are martyrs to whiskey! I delivered my own soul. Saturday
brought us to Killion's. Eight times within nine years I have crossed
these Mps. If my journal is transcribed it will be as well to give the
subject as the chapter and the verse of the text I preached from. Nothing
like a sermon can I record. Here now am I and have been for twenty nights
crowded by people, and the whole family striving to get round me."

JAMES PATTON, RICH, PLAIN, HUMBLE, KIND.
"Sabbath, 29. At Buncombe I spoke on Luke xiv, 10. It was a season of
attention and feeling. We dined with Mr. Erwin and lodged with James
Patton; bow rich, how plain, how humble, and how kind! There was a sudden
change in the weather on Monday; we went as far as D. Jay's. Tuesday, we
moved in haste to Mud Creek, Green river cove, on the other side of
Saluda."

AT VATER SHUCK'S ON A WINTER'S NIGHT. Again in December, 1810, we find the
following entry:

"At Catahouche (Cataiouche) I walked over a log. But O the mountain-height
after height, and five miles over? After crossing other streams, and
losing ourselves in the woods, we came in, about nine o'clock at night, to
Vater Shuck's. What an awful day? Saturday, December 1. Last night I was
strongly afflicted with pain. We rode twenty-five miles to Buncombe."

GEORGE NEWTON ALMOST A METHODIST.
"North Carolina, Sabbath, December 2. Bishop McKendree and John McGee rose
at five o'clock and left us to fill an appointment about twenty-five miles
off. Myself and Henry Boehm went to Newton's academy, where I preached.
Brother Boelim spoke after me; and Mr. Newton, in exhortation, confirmed
what was said. Had I known and studied my congregation for a year, I could
not have spoken more appropriately to their particular cases; this I
learned from those who knew them well. We dined with Mr. Newton. He is
almost a Methodist and reminds me of dear Whatcoat-the same placidness and
solemnity. We visited James Patton; this is, perhaps, the last visit to
Buncombe."

SPEAKING "FAITHFULLY."
"Monday. It was my province today to speak faithfully to a certain person.
May she feel the force of, and profit by the truth."

THE HOODENPILE ROAD IS OPEN. In December, 1812, we find the following:

"Monday, 30. We stopped at Michael Bollen's on our route, where I gave
them a discourse on Luke, xi, 11-13. Why should we climb over the
desperate Spring and Paint mountain when there is such a fine new road? We
came on Tuesday a straight course to Barratt's (Barnett's) dining in the
woods on our way."

BACK AGAIN AT KILLION'S.
"North Carolina, Wednesday, December 2. We went over the mountains, 22
miles, to Killlon's."

AT SAMUEL EDNEY'S AND FATHER MILLS'S.
"Thursday, 3. Came on through Buncombe to Samuel Edney's: I preached in
the evening. We have had plenty of rain lately. Friday, I rest. Occupied
in reading and writing. I have great communion with God. I preached at
Father Mills's."

IN GREAT WEAKNESS. Again, in November, 1813, we meet with this entry:
"Sabbath, 24. I preached in great weakness. I am at Killion's once more.
Our ride of ninety miles to Staunton bridge on Saluda river was severely
felt, and the necessity of lodging at taverns made it no better."

VALEDICTORY TO PRESIDING ELDERS.
"Friday, 29. On the peaceful banks of the Saluda I write my valedictory
address to the presiding elders."

Killian's, so often mentioned with different spellings in the foregoing
extracts, is the present residence of Capt. I. C. Baird on Beaverdam.(3)
When the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, met
at Asheville in May, 1910, a gavel made of a portion of the banister of
the old Killian home was presented to the presiding bishop.

FIRST CHURCH IN THE MOUNTAINS. According to Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone, the
first church established west of the Blue Ridge and east of the Smokies
was at what is still called "Three Forks of New river in what is now
Watauga county, a beautiful spot." It was organied November 6, 1790. The
following is from its records: "A book containing (as may be seen) in the
covenant and conduct of the Baptist church of Jesus Christ in Wilkes
county,... New River, Three Forks settlement" by the following members:
James Tomkins, Richard Greene and wife, Daniel Eggers and wife, William
Miller, Elinor Greene and B. B. Eggers. "This is the mother of all the
Baptist churches throughout this great mountain region. From this mother
church using the language of these old pioneers, they established arms of
the mother church; one at what is now known as the Globe in Caldwell
county, another to the westward, known as Ebinezer, one to the northeast
named South Fork . . . and at various other points. Yet, it should be
remembered that the attendance upon the worship of the mother church
extended for many, many miles, reaching into Tennessee." After these
"arms" had been established "there was organized Three Forks Baptist
association, which bears the name to this day, and is the oldest and most
venerated religious organization known throughout the mountains. Among the
first pastors of the mother church were Rev. Mr. Barlow of Yadkin, George
McNeill of Wilkes, John G. Bryan who died in Georgia at the age of 98,
Nathaniel Vannoy of Wilkes, Richard Gentry of Old Field, Joseph Harrison
of Three Forks, Brazilla McBride and Jacob Greene of Cove creek, Reuben
Farthing, A. C. Farthing, John or Jackie Farthing, Larkin Hodges and Rev.
William Wilcox, the last named having been the last of the Old Patriarchs
of this noted church to pass away. They were all farmers and worked in the
fields for their daily bread. To the above list should be added Rev. D. C.
Harmon of Lower Cove creek, Rev. D. C. Harmon, Rev. Smith Ferguson, who,
though they have been gone for many years, yet some of those left
behind."(4)

PROMINENT PIONEER RELIGIOUS TEACHERS.(5) Among these were "Richard Gentry,
Aaron Johnson, William Baldwin Richard Jacks, David Smith, all of whom
were Baptists favoring missions; and among the Methodists were James Wagg,
Samuel Plumer, A. B. Cox and Hiram and Elihu Weaver."

REV. HUMPHREY POSEY. Of this good man Col. Allen T. Davidson says in The
Lyceum for January, 1891, p.11, that James Whittaker of Cherokee "and the
Rev. Humphrey Posey established the leading (Baptist) churches in this
upland country, to wit: Cane creek, in Buncombe county, and Locust Old
Field in Haywood county, where the friends of these two men have
worshipped ever since. . . . There they stand, monuments to the memory of
these pioneers.... Perhaps the most remarkable man in this up-country was
Rev. Humphrey Posey, who was born in Henry county, Va., January 12, 1780,
was brought to Burke when only five years old and remained there until he
reached manhood, was ordained a minister at Cane creek church in 1806.
About 1820 he established a mission school at what is now known as the
Mission Place on the Hiwassee river, seven miles above Murphy. He removed
to Georgia in 1784, and died at Newman, Ga., 28 December, 1846. He was a
man greatly endowed by nature to be a leader, of great physical force,
with a profile much like that of the Hon. Tom Corwin of Ohio. He had a
fine voice and manner, was singularly and simply eloquent.... In fact, by
nature, he was a great man, and "his works do follow him." The effect of
his mission schools have been seen for many years past, and many citizens
of Indian blood are left to tell the tale. The Stradley brothers of
Asheville were two other pioneer Baptist preachers of note. They had been
in the Battle of Waterloo as members of Wellington's army before
emigrating to America. Their record is known of all men in Buncombe
county, and a long line of worthy descendants attest the sturdy character
of the parent stock.

REV. BRANCH HAMLINE MERRIMON. He was born in Dinwiddie county, Va.,
February 22, 1802, and moved with his parents as far as Rogersville,
Tenn., on their way to the Great West, when one member of the family
becoming too ill to travel further, they stopped there permanently. He
joined the Methodist Conference at Knoxville in 1824 and became an
itinerant Methodist preacher, being assigned to this section. In 1829 he
married Mary E. Paxton, a daughter of William Paxton and his wife Sarah
McDowell, a sister of Gen. Charles McDowell of Revolutionary fame. William
Paxton was born in Roxbridge county, Va., and came to Burke county, where
at Quaker Meadows he married his wife. William Paxton and wife then moved
to the Cherry Fields in what is now Transylvania county, where they bought
and improved a large tract of fertile land, whither Mr. Merrimon and his
wife followed. William Paxton was a brother of Judge John Paxton of
Morganton, a Superior court judge from 1818 to 1826. He was also a near
kinsman of Judge John Hall, a member of the first Supreme court of this
State. Mr. Merrimon died at Asheville in November, 1886, leaving seven
sons and three daughters. Chief Justice A. S. Merrimon was one of his
sons, and Ex-Judge J. H. Merrimon of Asheville is another. Rev. Mr.
Merrimon was a staunch Union man during the Civil War.

The late Rev. J. S. Burnett was another pioneer Methodist preacher of
prominence.

UNITED THEY STOOD. "It is a striking fact in the character of this
primitive people," says Col. A. T. Davidson with a profile in The Lyceum
for January 1891, "that they. were entirely devoted to each other,
clannish in the extreme; and when affliction, sorrow, trouble, vexation,
or offence came to one it came to all. It was like a bee-hive always some
one on guard, and all affected by the attack from without. They were the
constant attendants around the bed of the sick; suffered with the
suffering, wept with those who wept, and attended all the funerals without
reward, it never having been known that a coffin was charged for, or the
digging of a grave for many long years. Is it a fact that these men were
better than those of the present day, or does it only exist in my
imagination? When I look back to them I think that they were the best men
I ever knew; and the dear old mothers of these humble people are now
strikingly engraved upon my memory. The men rolled each others logs in
common; they gathered their harvests, built their cabins, and all work of
a heavy character was done in common and without price. The log meeting-
house was reared in the same way, and it is a fact that this was done
promptly, without hesitation--regardless of creeds or sect-all coming
together with a will. The Baptists, "rifle, axe and saddle-bag men," or
the Methodist "circuit rider" supplied the people with the ministry of the
word; and it is pleasant to look back and reflect upon the enjoyment and
comfort these humble people had in the administration by these humble
ministers in the long-ago. Then they came together and held what they
called "union meetings," under arbors made with poles and brush, or, at
the private residence of some good citizen-often at my father's. I
remember distinctly that Nathaniel Gibson, of Crabtree creek, converted
the top story of his mill house into one of these places of worship; and
Jacob Shook, on Pigeon, the father of the family near Clyde, turned his
threshing floor, in his barn, into a place of worship; and near this was
established about 1827 or 1828, Shook's Camp Ground. The good old Dutchman
contributed or donated to the church ten acres of land, which have ever
been kept for a place of public worship.

REV. WM. G. BROWNLOW.(6) In the year 1832 Rev. Wm. G. Brownlow, a
Methodist minister, afterwards better known as Parson Brownlow and
Governor of Tennessee, served as pastor of the Franklin circuit in Macon
county. These were the days of intense religious prejudices and
denominational controversies. Rev. Humphrey Posey, a kinsman of the late
Ben. Posey, Esq., was at that time the leading minister of the Baptist
church in this section.

"It was impossible for men of the type of Brownlow and Posey to long
remain in the same community without becoming involved in controversy. Nor
did they. From denominational discussions their controversy degenerated
into matters personal, a personal quarrel. Brownlow, as is well known, was
a master of invective and his pen was dipped in vitriol, On July 23,1832,
he wrote Rev, Posey a 24-page letter which is still on file among the
records of Macon court and which that gentleman regarded as libelous. He
thereupon Indicted parson Brownlow, as appears from the court records. The
first bill was found at fall term 1832. It is signed by J. Roberts,
solicitor pro-tem., and seems to have been quashed; at any rate a new bill
was sent and the case tried at spring term 1833. Wm. J. Alexander was the
solicitor when the case was tried. The defendant pleaded not guilty but
was found guilty by the jury, whether upon the ground that the "greater
the truth the greater the libel" or not does not appear. He was sentenced
to pay a fine and the costs. The amount of the fine was not given but the
record discloses that it was paid by J. B. Siler, one of the leading
citizens and original settlers, and a prominent member of the Methodist
church. Execution issued for the costs and the return shows that on July 1,
1833, the sheriff levied on dun mare, bridle, saddle and saddle bags. Sold
for $65.50. Proceeds into office $53.83.

"There is a generally accredited story to the effect that when the sheriff
went to levy on the Parson's horse, Brownlow was just closing a preaching
service at Mt. Zion church-that he saw the sheriff approaching and knew
the purpose of his coming. and before the sheriff came up Browniow handed
his Bible to one lady member of his congregation and his hymn book to
another and that these books are still in the families of the descendants
of these ladies. It is also said that when Brownlow started to conference
that fall, J. B. Siler made him a present of another horse in lieu of the
one that had been sold."

William Gunnaway Browniow was born in Virginia in 1805, and became a
carpenter first and then a Methodist preacher. In 1828 he moved to
Tennessee and in 1839 became a local preacher at Jonesboro and editor of
The Whig, but moved to Knoxville, taking The Whig with him and continued
its publication till the beginning of the Civil war. He preached many
sermons defending slavery, and was defeated by Andrew Johnson for Congress
in 1843. He wrote several books, the most famous of which was called
Parson Brownlow's Book, in which he gave his unpleasant experiences with
the Confederates and his views on secession and the Civil War. He was a
member of the convention which revised the constitution of Tennessee in
1865, and was elected governor in 1865, and again in 1867. He was sent to
the United States senate in 1869 where he remained till 1875. He died at
Knoxville in April, 1877.(7)

CANARIO DRAYTON SMITH.(8) He was a son of Samuel and Mary Smith, and was
born in Buncombe April 1, 1813. His grandfather, Joseph Smith, was born on
the eastern shore of Maryland, April 1, 1730, and his grandmother, Rebecca
Dath (Welch), was born near the same place on April 1, 1739. In 1765 they
moved to North Carolina, and on the journey C. D. Smith's father was born
at a public inn in Albemarle county, Va., August 20, 1765. They first
settled at Hawfields in Guilford county, where they were living when the
battle was fought in 1780. His maternal grandfather, Daniel Jarrett, was
born in Lancaster county, Pa., December 18, 1747. He was of English blood.
His grandmother Jarrett, whose maiden name was Catharine C. Moyers, was
born in Lancaster county, Pa., February 9, 1753. She was a German woman.
They were married October 25, 1772, moving to North Carolina shortly
afterwards and settling in Cabarrus where his mother, Mary Jarrett, was
born June 23, 1775. Soon after the close of hostilities between the
Cherokees and whites they moved to Buncombe county, where in 1796 his
father and mother were married. They moved to Macon in the winter of 1819-
20. At the sale of the Cherokee lands at Waynesville in September, 1820,
his father bought the land known as the Tessentee towns, now Smith's
Bridge, where C. D. Smith was reared to manhood. He attended the
subscription schools of the neighborhood, and in 1832 went to Caney river,
then in Buncombe, now in Yancey, to clerk for Smith & McElroy, merchants,
where he spent five years, buying ginseng principally, getting in in 1837
over 86,000 pounds which yielded 25,000 pounds of choice clarified root,
which was barreled and shipped to Lucas & Heylin, Philadelphia, and thence
to China. In the meantime Yancey had been created a county and John W.
McElroy had been elected first clerk of the Superior court, making C. D.
Smith his deputy. At a camp meeting held at Caney River Camp Ground in
1836, by Charles K. Lewis, preacher in charge of the Black Mountain
circuit, he was converted and joined the church. At the quarterly
conference at Alexander chapel the following June he was licensed to
preach by Thos. W. Catlett, presiding elder. He continued to preach till
1850 when he went on the supernumerary list on account of bad health. In
1853 he became agent for the American Colonization Society for Tennessee
and sent to Liberia two families of emancipated negroes. In 1854 he became
interested in mineralogy, and continued this study of mineralogy and
geology till his death. He was assistant State Geologist under Prof.
Emmons and a co-worker with Prof. Kerr. He is mentioned in Dr. R. N.
Price's works on Methodism, and has an article in Kerr'sGeology of North
Carolina. He died in 1894.

(1. "The Despot of Broomsedge Cove," by Mary N. Murfree)

(2. "Asheville's Centenary")

(3. Reference is to 1898)

(4. From "A Primitive History of the Mountain Region," by Col. W. L. Bryan)

(5. Facts Furnished by Hon. A. H. Eller of Ashe county, 1912)

(6. By Fred S. Johnston, Esq., of Franklin, N. C.)

(7. McGee, p.173)

(8. From the "Autobiography of Dr. C. D. Smith," and statements of Henry
G. Robertson, Esq.)



CHAPTER X.
ROADS, STAGE COACHES, AND TAVERNS

BUFFALO TRAILS AND TRADING PATHS. It is probable that buffaloes made the
first roads over these mountains, and that the Indians, following where
they led, made their trading paths by pursuing these highways. It is still
more probable that the buffaloes instinctively sought the ways that were
1evelest and shortest between the best pastures, thus insuring a passage
through the lowest gaps and to the richest lands. The same applies to
deer, bear and other wild animals-they wanted to go by the easiest routes
and to the countries which afforded the best support. It is still said in
the mountains that when the first settlers wanted to build a new road they
drove a steer or "cow-brute" to the lowest gap in sight and then drove it
down on the side the road was to be located, the tracks by it being
followed and staked and the road located exact1y on them. The fact that
John Strother mentions no paths in the 1799 survey simply indicates that
the Indians had not used them for years in the territory north of the
ridge between the Nollechucky and the French Broad. No doubt there had
been trading paths until the whites came to interrupt their passage over
the mountains. But Davenport mentions crossing several on the 1821 survey,
viz.: the Cataloochee track at the mouth of Big creek, "the Equeneetly
path to Cades cove" at the head of Eagle creek, and at the 60th mile from
Pigeon river, in "a low gap at the path of Equeneetly to Tallassee." Seven
miles further on they came to another trading path of Cheogee (Cheoah) now
known as the Belding trail. At the ninety-third mile they reached "the
trading path leading from the Valley Towns to the Overhill Settlements"
and reaching the ninety-fifth mile on the path before they paused. On
August 24th they passed the white oak, 96th mile, on top of the Unicoi
mountain, and on the same day reached the "hickory and rock at the wagon
road, the 101st mile, at the end of the Unicoi mountain."

HARD ROADS TO BUILD AS WELL AS TO TRAVEL. Powder was scarce and tools were
wanting for the construction of roads in the early days. Dynamite and
blasting powder were then unknown. Ridges offered least resistence to the
construction of a roadway because the timber on their crests was light and
scattered and because, principal consideration, they were generally level
enough on top to allow wagon wheels to pass up or down them. But they were
frequently too steep even for the overtaxed oxen and horses of that
time.(1) The level places along creeks and rivers were the next places
where roads could be built with least labor; but these were always subject
to overflow; and cliffs shutting in on one side always forced the road to
cross the stream to get lodgment on the opposite bank. Sometimes there
were cliffs on both sides of the stream, and then the road had to run up
the nearest "hollow" or cove to the head of the branch flowing in it and
across the gap down another branch or brook to the stream from which the
road had just parted company. When there was no escape from it, "side-
cutting" was resorted to; but as it took a longer road to go by a gentle
grade than by a steep climb, the steeper road was invariably built.

"NAVIGATING WAGONS." James M. Edney, in his Sketches of Buncomb Men in
Bennett's Chronology of North Carolina, written in 1855 says:

"Col. J. Barnett settled on French Broad seventy years ago, and was the
first man to pilot or navigate wagons through Buncombe by putting the two
big wheels on the lower side, sometimes pulling, sometimes pushing, and
sometimes carrying the wagon, at a charge of five dollars for work and
labor done."(2)

THE FIRST ROAD BUILDERS. "Most of the work done at the earlier sessions of
the county court of Buncombe related to laying out and working roads.
These roads or trails, rude and rough, narrow and steep as they were,
constituted the only means of communication between the scattered settlers
of this new country, and were matters of first importance to its people.
They were located by unlettered hunters and farmers, who knew nothing of
civil engineering, and were opened by their labor, and could ill afford to
spare time from the support and protection of their families. Roving bands
of Indians constantly gave annoyance to the white settlers, and frequently
where they found the master of the house absent, would frighten the women
and children into taking refuge in the woods, and then burn the furniture
and destroy the bedding which they found in the house. Many were the
privations incident to a life in a new country suffered by these early
settlers, and many were the hardships which they underwent at the hands of
these predatory savages. We can scarcely wonder that they saw in the red
man none of the romantic feature of character which their descendants are
so fond of attributing to him. This state of affairs continued even up
into the present century.(3)

THE HARD, UNYIELDING ROCKS. Whenever rock ledges and cliffs were
encountered our road-builders usually "took to the woods." That is, they
went as far around them as was necessary in order to avoid them. But, in
some cases, they had to be removed; and then holes were drilled by driving
steel-tipped bars with sledge-hammers as far as practicable, which was
rarely over two feet in depth. Into these gunpowder costing fifty cents
per pound was poured, and a hollow reed or elder tubes filled with powder
were thrust, and the earth tamped around these. A line of leaves or straw
was laid on the ground a dozen feet or more from the tube, and slowly
burnt its way to the powder. It was a slow and ineffective method, and too
expensive to be much used. Another and cheaper way was to build log heaps
on top of the ledge of rock and allow them to burn till the rock was well
heated, when buckets and barrels of water were quickly poured on the rock
after removing the fire, which split the rock and permitted its being
quarried.

STAGE-COACH CUSTOMS. In old times there were no reserved seats on stage
coaches-first come, first served, being the rule. This resulted,
oftentimes, in grumbling and disputes, but as a rule all submitted with
good grace, the selfish and pushing getting the choice places then as now.
Three passengers on each seat were insisted on in all nine passenger
coaches, and woe to that poor wight who had to take the middle of the
front seat and ride backwards. Seasickness usually overcame him, but there
was no redress, unless someone volunteered to change seats. In dry and
pleasant weather, many preferred a seat with the driver or on the roof
behind him. Many pleasant acquaintances were made on stage coach ourneys,
and sometimes friendships and marriages resulted. Stages were never robbed
in these mountains, however, as Murrell and his band usually transacted
their affairs further west. Heated stones wrapped in rugs and blankets
were sometimes taken by ladies during cold weather to keep their feet warm.

OLD TAVERNS. Whenever there was a change of horses which usually happened
at or near a tavern or inn, the passengers would get out and visit the
"grocery," either to get warm inside or outside, frequently on both sides.
Then, they would walk ahead and be taken up when the coach overtook them.
When meals were to be taken there was a rushfor the "washing place,"
usually provided with several buckets of cold spring water and tin basins,
with roller towels. Then the rush for the dining room and the well-cooked
food served there. Most of these meals were prepared on open hearths
before glowing beds of coals, in wide fire-places whose stone hearths
frequently extended half across the kitchen floor. But yiding at night
grew very monotonous, and when pos~ the ladies remained at these taverns
over night, resuming their journey in the morning.

FIRST ROADS. Boone's trail across the mountains in 1769 was the first of
which there is any record, and that seems to be in dispute (see Chapter
"Daniel Boone."). The next one was that followed by James Robertson and
the sixteen families who left Wake county after Alamance and found their
way to the Watauga settlement in Tennessee. They probably followed the
Catawba to its head, crossing at the McKinney gap, and followed Bright's
trace over the Yellow and thence down to the Doe and So on to the Watauga
at Elizabethton.(4) McGee Says: "When the Watauga settlement became
Washington county, in 1778, a wagon road was opened across the mountains
into the settled parts of North Carolina...and in 1779...Washington county
was divided into....Sullivan, etc."(5)

The Act of Cession, 1789, calls for the top of the Yellow mountain where
"Bright's road crosses the same, thence along the ridge of said mountain
between the waters of Doe river and the waters of Rock creek to the place
where the road crosses the Iron mountain"; and John Strother, in his diary
of the survey of 1799 between North Carolina and Tennessee, mentions that
the surveying party crossed "the road leading from Morganton to
Jonesborough on Thursday, June 6, 1799." This road was north of the Toe or
Nollechucky river and between it and the Bright road over the Yellow; but,
as there are now two roads crossing between those points, it is important
to ascertain which is the one opened in 1778, as that, undoubtedly, was
the first wagon road crossing the mountains. Chancellor John Allison
speaks of Andrew Jackson crossing this road from Morganton to
Jonesborough, Tenn., in the spring of 1788, as early "as the melting snow
and ice made such a trip over the Appalachians possible."(6) It was "more
than one hundred miles, two-thirds of which, at that time, was without a
single human habitation along its course." Practically all histories claim
that Sevier and his men passed over the Bright Trace over the Yellow; but
Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone, N. C., says that Sevier and his men passed
through what is now known as the Carver gap, southwest of the Roan, and
down Big; Rock creek.(7) And it does seem more probable that his men would
have followed the wagon road, which Historian McGee says had been opened
in 1778, from Sycamore Shoals, than a trail which must have taken them
considerably further north than a road nearer the Nollechucky river would
have been. But all these dates referring to that road were prior to the
passing of the first wagon from North Carolina into Tennessee, mentioned
in Wheeler 's History of North Carolina as occurring in 1795.(8) Indeed,
John Strother mentions another "road" at a low gap between the waters of
Cove creek (in what is now Watauga county) and Roan creek (in what is now
Johnson county, Tenn.); but the road over which the first wagon passed
into Tennessee in 1795 was probably the one Bishop Asbury traveled from
1800 to October, 1803, over Paint mountain to Warm Springs; and was not
the road on the left side of the river leading down to the mouth of Wolf
creek. This road is a mile and a half southwest of Paint Rock. Probably no
road at that time followed the river bank there. It is certain, however,
that in 1812 Hoodenpile had charge of a road from Warm Springs to Newport,
Tenn., and was under contract to keep it in repair from the "top of
Hopewell Hill (now Stackhouse) to the Tennesace line."(9) William Gillett
had built it from Old Newport, Tern., to the North Carolina line.(10) It
was on the right bank all the way. The Love road leaves the river six
miles below the Hot Springs at the Hale Neilson house and joins main road
12 miles from Greenville, Tenn.

PATH CROSSING THE UNAKER MOUNTAIN.(11) John Strother tells us that about
the 13th of May, 1799, they came "to the path crossing from Hollow Poplar
to the Greasy Cove and met our company." But what kind of a path that was
he does not say. It was probably the road through the Indian Grave Gap,
near the buffalo trail. For they were close to the Nollechucky river then,
and Bishop Asbury's Journal records the fact that on Thursday, November 6,
1800, he crossed Nollechucky at Querton's Ferry, and came to Major
Gragg's, 18 miles, arriving at Warm Springs next day. This road crossed
the Small and the Great Paint mountains, for he mentions an accident that
befell his horse after crossing both. This most probably was the road over
which the first wagon passed in 1795 as recorded in Wheeler's history. In
November 1802, the good Bishop "grew afraid" of Paint mountain "and with
the help of a pine sapling worked my way down the steepest and roughest
parts," on his way to Warm Springs where, at William Nelson's, he found
that thirty travelers had "dropped in," and where he expounded to them the
scripture as found in the "third chapter of Romans as equally applicable
to nominal Christians, Indians, Jews and Gentiles."(12)

WHAT NEW ROAD WAS THIS? In October, 1803, he continued to Paint mountain
"passing the gap newly made, which makes the road down Paint creek much
better."

THE HOODENPYLE ROAD. In December 1812, Bishop Asbury asks "Why should we
climb over the desperate Spring and Paint mountains when there is sudh a
fine new road? We came on Tuesday a straight course to Barrett's
(Barnett's) dining in the woods on our way." This must have been the
Hoodenpyle road from Warm Springs to Newport, Tenn., which he was under
contract to keep in order from Hopewell Hill to the Tennessee line. This
road follows Paint creek one mile and then crosses the mountains.(13) He
moved to Huntsville Landing on the Tennessee river in the territory of
Mississippi, where John Welch of Haywood, agreed to deliver to him on or
before the first of May, 1813, 2,667 gallons of "good proof whiskey"; and
on or before 14 of August, 1814, 1,500 gallons of the same gloom-
dispelling elixir, for value received. No wonder Philip Hoodenpile could
play the fiddle with his left hand!(14)

SWANNANOA GAP TRAIL. This, doubtless, was the first road into Buncombe
from the east, and led from Old Fort in McDowell county to the head of the
Swannanoa river and Bee Tree creek where the first settlers stopped about
1782. How long after this it was before a wagon road was built through
this gap does not appear; but it is recorded that the Bairds brought their
first wagon through Saluda gap, some miles to the southwest, in 1793. Even
that, however, at that date was probably only a very poor wagon road. But
a wagon road was finally built through the gap Rutherford and his men had
passed through in 1776 to subdue the Cherokees.

THE OLD SWANNANOA GAP ROAD.(15) "The old road through this gap did not
cross, as it has often been stated to have done, at the place where the
Long or Swannanoa Tunnel is. In later years the stage road did cross at
that place. But the old road crossed a half a mile further south. To
travel it one would not, as in the case of the later road, leave Old Fort
and pass up Mill Creek three miles to where Henry station, so long the
head of the railroad, stood. He would leave Old Fort and go across the
creek directly west for about a mile before going into the mountains. Then
he would turn to the right, ascend the mountain, cross it at about one
half mile south of Swannanoa tunnel, and thence pass down the mountain
until the road joined the later road above Black Mountain station."

BUNCOMBE COUNTY ROADS. In his very admirable work, "Asheville's Centenary"
(1898), Dr. F. A. Sondley gives a fine account of the building of the
first roads in Buncombe county.' The first of these ran from the Swannanoa
river to Davidson river, in what is now Transylvania county, crossing the
French Broad below the mouth of Avery's creek, passing Mills river and
going up Boydsteens (now improperly pronounced Boilston) creek; the second
ran from "the wagon ford on Rims (now called Reems) creek to om the road
from Turkey cove, Catawba, to Robert Henton's on Cane river, after passing
through Asheville. In July, 1793, the court ordered a road to be laid off
from Buncombe court house to the Bull mountain road near Robert Love's. In
1795 a road was ordered to run from the court house to Jonathan McPeter's
on Hominy creek; and at a later period two other roads ran out north from
Asheville to Beaver Dam and Glenn creek. Then followed the Warm Springs
road, Crossing Reems creek at the old Wagoner ford and through the rear of
the old Alexander farm, crossing Flat creek" and ran on to the farm of
Bedent Smith near the Madison county line, where it turned west and ran to
the mouth of Ivy, thence to Marshall "and about one-half mile below that
town turned to the east and ran with the old Hopewell turnpike, built by
Philip Hoodenpyle later known as the Jewel Hill road, to Warm Springs."

On July 8, 1795, Governor Blount of the territory south of the Ohio river,
now called Tennessee, suggested to the council of that territory the
opening of a road from Buncombe court house to Tennessee; and Sevier and
Taylor were appointed to act with Wear, Cocke, Doherty and Taylor to
consider the matter, which resulted in the opening of a road from North
Carolina to Tennessee, via Warm Springs, following the right bank of the
French Broad to Warm Springs. In 1793 the Bairds "had carried up their
four-wheel wagon across the Saluda gap, a road through which had been
opened by Col. Earle for South Carolina for $4,000, and is probably the
old road from Columbia, which passed through Newberry and Greenville
districts," and yet known in upper South Carolina as the old State or
Buncombe road. "There was already a road or trail coming from the
direction of South Carolina to Asheville," Crossing the Swannanoa at the
Gum Spring and known as the "road from Augusta in Georgia to Knoxville."
(Record Book 62, p.361)

THE NEW STOCK ROAD. This road passes through Weaverville, Jupiter, Jewel
Hill and through Shelton Laurel in Madison into Tennessee, and was built
when Dr. Wm. Askew, who was born in 1832, was a boy, in order to escape
the delays of waiting for the French Broad river to subside in times of
freshets, and in winter, of avoiding the ice which drifted into the road
from the river and sometimes made it impassable. But Bishop Asbury records
the fact that on Tuesday, October 25, 1803, in coming from Mr. Nelson's at
Warm Springs to Killian's on Beaver Dam, "the road is greatly mended by
changing the direction and throwing a bridge over Ivy." This is probably
part of the road that runs up Ivy creek from French Broad and crosses Ivy
about a mile up stream, and then comes on by Jupiter to Asheville. If so,
the New Stock must have started from that bridge across Ivy and run by
Jewel Hill to the Tennessee line.

THE BUNCOMBE TURNPIKE.(16) "In 1824 Asheville received her greatest
impetus. In that year the legislature of North Carolina incorporated the
now famous but abandoned Buncombe Turnpike road, directing James Patton,
Samuel Chunn and George Swain to receive subscriptions "for the purpose of
laying out and making a turnpike road from the Saluda Gap, in the county
of Buncombe, by way of Smith's, Maryville, Asheville and the Warm Springs,
to the Tennessee line." (2 Rev. Stat. of N. C., 418). This great
thoroughfare was completed in 1828, and brought a stream of travel through
Western North Carolina. All the attacks upon the legality of the act
establishing it were overruled by the Supreme court of the State, and
Western North Carolina entered through it upon a career of marvelous
prosperity, which continued for many years.

ASHEVILLE AND GREENVILLE PLANK ROAD.(16) "In 1851 the legislature of the
State of North Carolina incorporated the Asheville & Greenville Plank Road
Company, with authority to that company to occupy and use this turnpike
road upon certain prescribed terms. A plank road was consturcted over the
southern portion of it, or the greater part of it south of Asheville, and
contributed yet more to Ashevilles's prosperity. By the conclusion of the
late war, however, this plank road had gone down, and in 1866 the charter
of the plank road company was repealed, while the old Buncombe turnpike
was suffered to fall into neglect."

ASHEVILLE GETS A START.(16) From the time of the building of the Buncombe
Turnpike road, Asheville began to be a health resort and summering place
for the South Carolians, who have ever since patronized it as such.

THE WATCHESE ROAD. In 1813 a company was organized to lay out a free
public road from the Tennessee river to the head of navigation on the
Tugabo branch of the Savanah river. It was completed in 1813, and became
the great highway from the coast to the Tennessee settlements.(17)

FIRST ROADS OVER THE "SMOKIES." John Strother mentions but two roads as
crossing the mountains between Virginia and the Pigeon river, that at "a
low gap between the waters of Cove creek-in what is now Watauga county-and
Roans creek-in what is now Johnson county, Tenn. and that of "the road
leading from Morganton to Jonesborough," Tenn., between the Yellow and the
Roan.

FIRST ROADS OVER THE UNAKAS. Of the survey in 1821 from the end of the
1799 survey on Big Pigeon to the Georgia line is 116 miles; and yet, as
late as 1821 there were but two roads crossing from North Carolina into
Tennessee. They were "the Cataloochee track" where the 1799 survey ended
and "the wagon road" at the 101st mile post on the Hiwassee river.(19)

LITTLE TENNESSEE RIVER ROAD. Just when the wagon road from Tallassee ford
up the Little Tennessee river was first constructed cannot be definitely
ascertained. Some sort of a road, probably an Indian trail, may have
existed for years before the coming of the whites into that section; but
it is not probable, as a road near the river bank is simply impossible,
while on the left side of the Little Tennessee is what is now known as the
Belding Trail. But this name has only recently been bestowed on an ancient
Indian trail which followed the Cheoah river to what is now Johnson post
office and then cut across the ridges to Bear creek, passing Dave Orr's
house, to Slick Rock creek, and thence down to Tallassee ford and the
Hardin farm.

GEN. WINFIELD SCOTT'S MILITARY ROAD. It is probable however, that Gen.
Winfield Scott had a military road constructed from Calhoun, his
headquarters in Tennessee, up to the junction of the Little Tennessee with
the Tuckaseegee at what is now Bushnell; for we know that it was down this
road that most of the Cherokees were driven during the Removal of 1838.
But it was impossible for this road to follow the river bank beyond the
Paine branch, where it left the river and by following that branch,
crossed the ridge and returned to the, river again, reaching it at what is
now called Fairfax. For it was at the mouth of the Paine branch that Old
Charley, the Cherokee, and his family made their break for liberty, and
succeeded in escaping in 1838. Beyond Rocky Point, however, it is
impossible even for modern engineers, except at a prohibitive cost, to
build a road near the river bank, and the conSequence has been that the
road runs over a series of ridges, which spread off from the end of the
Great Smoky range like so many figures, down to the Little Tennessee. Gen.
Wool's soldiers built the road from Valleytown to Robbinsville in 1836-
7.(20)

CRUSOE JACK AND JUDGE FAX. There is a tradition that, when the treaty of
Tellico in 1789 was made, Crusoe Jack, a mulatto, got a grant to the
magnificent Harden farm and that John Harden traded him out of it. Harden
worked about fifty slaves on this farm, among whom was Fax, a mulatto, who
bought his freedom from John Harden, whose descendants still own this
farm, and settled at Fairfax, where Daniel Lester afterwards lived for
many years, and where Jeremiah Jenkins afterwards lived and died. Fax was
called Judge Fax and kept a public house where he supplied wagoners and
other travelers with such accommodations as he could.

OLD WILKESBOROUGH ROADS. The prinicipal road from Wilkesboro passed
through Deep gap and went by Boone. The Phillips gap road was made just
before the Civil War and after Arthur D. Cole settled on Gap creek and
began his extensive business there it was much used. All freight came from
Wilkesboro. The turnpike from Patterson over Blowing Rock gap passed down
the Watauga liver and Shull's Mills to Valle Crucis, Ward's store, Beech,
and Watauga Falls to Cardens' bluff in Tennessee, after which it left the
Watauga river and crossed the ridge to Hampton and Doe river, going on to
Jonesboro. It was surveyed about 1848 by Col. William Lenoir and built
soon afterwards. David J. Farthing and Anderson Cable remember seeing the
grading while it was being built, and Alfred Moretz of Deep Gap was
present when sections of the road were bid off by residents, the bidding
being near the mouth of Beech creek.

THE WESTERN TURNPIKE. In 1848-9 the legislature passed an act to provide
for a turnpike road from Salisbury to the line of the State of Georgia.
The lands of the Cherokees were later pledged for the building of this
"Western Turnpike," as it was officially called, and in 1852-3 another act
was passed "to bring into market the lands" so pledged, and this act was
later (Ch. 22, Laws 1854-5) supplemented by an act which gave the road the
proceeds of the sales of the Cherokee lands in Cherokee, Macon, Jackson
and Haywood counties. At the latter session another act was passed making
Asheville the eastern terminus and the Tennessee line, near Ducktown, the
western terminus of this road, and providing that it should also extend to
the Georgia line; but that the latter road should be only a branch of the
main road. It also provided that in case the bridge across the French
Broad river-presumably Smith's bridge at Asheville-could not be obtained
on satisfactory terms, the route of the turnpike might be changed and a
new bridge constructed. As this was not probable that satisfactory terms
were made for the use of Smith's bridge, as it had been sold to Buncombe
county about 1853. When this road reached the Tuckaseegee river "the
influence of Franklin and Macon county was the principal force which took
it across the Cowee and Nantahala mountains(21). The survey was made by an
engineer by the name of Fox in 1849. It was completed over the Valley
river mountains and Murphy in 1856. The late Nimrod S. Jarrett was chief
of construction. Chapter 51, Laws of 1854-5 defined the duties of and
powers of turnpike and plankroad companies, and acts incorporating the
latter throughout the State passed at that session extend from page 178 to
page 216 showing their popularity.

SMITH'S BRIDGE. Long before a bridge had been built across the French
Broad at Asheville Edmund Sams, who had come from the Watauga settlement
and settled on the west side of the French Broad at what was later known
as the Gaston place about a mile above the mouth of the Swannanoa operated
a ferry there. He had been an Indian fighter and later a soldier of the
Revolution. He was also for years a trustee of the Newton Academy, and
died on the farm of his father-in-law, Thomas Foster, near Biltmore. John
Jarrett afterwards lived at the western terminus of the present bridge,
keeping the ferry and charging toll. Subsequently he sold it to James M.
Smith, who built a toll bridge there, which he maintained till about 1853,
when he died, after having sold the bridge to Buncombe county. After this
it became a free bridge. In 1881 it was removed to make way for the
present iron structure, but its old foundations are yet plainly to be
seen.(22) That old bridge was a single track affair without handrails for
a long time before the Civil War, and nothing but log stringers on each
side of the roadway. Col. J. C. Smathers of Turnpike remembers when, if a
team began to back, there was nothing to prevent a vehicle going over into
the river. Chapter 313, Laws, 1883, made it unlawful to drive or ride
faster than a walk over the new double-track bridge at Asheville."

CARRIER'S BRIDGE. This was built about 1893, crossing the French Broad at
the mouth of the Swannanoa river. It was afterwards sold to the county.
Pearson's Bridge, near Riverside Park, was built by Hon. Richmond Pearson
about this time, but afterwards taken over by the county. The Concrete
bridge below the passenger depot was finished and opened in 1911.

GORMAN'S BRIDGE. This is about five miles below Asheville and was erected
long before the war, but was washed away. It was replaced by the present
iron structure, about 1900.

THE ANDERSON ROAD. About the year 1858 a road was made from the head of
Cade's Cove in Blount county, Tenn., around the Boat mountain to what is
now and was probably then the Spence Cabin at Thunderhead mountain. It was
finished to this point, in the expectation that a road from the mouth of
Chambers creek, below Bushnel, would be built over into the Hazel creek
settlement, and thence up the Foster ridge and through the Haw gap to meet
it. But North Carolina failed to do its part, and the old Anderson road in
a ruinous condition, but still passable for footmen and horsemen, remains
a mute witness to somebody's bad faith in the past.

GREAT ROAD ACTIVITY. Between 1848 and 1862, while the late Col. W. H.
Thomas was in the legislature, the statute books are full of charters for
turnpike and plankroad companies all through the mountains. Many of these
roads were not to be new roads but improvements on old roads which were
bad; and some of the roads authorized were never built at all. The Jones
gap road to Caesar's head, the road from Bakersville to Burnsville, the
road from Patterson to Valle Crucis and on to Jonesboro, the road up Cove
creek by trade and Zionville to what is now Mountain City, the road over
Cataloochee to Newport, the road up Ocona Lufty, the road through Soco
gap, the road up Tuckaseegee river and the Nantahala, through Red Marble
gap, etc., were all chartered during that time. And Col. Thomas was
especially interested in the road from Old Valleytown over the Snowbird
mountain, via Robbinsville (Junaluska's old home) down the Cheowah river
to Rocky Point, where be had built a bridge across the Little Tennessee
and was confidently awaiting the approach of the Blue Ridge railroad,
which has not arrived yet.

OLD STAGE COACH DAYS. "From Greenville to Greenville" was the watchword
when bids were made for the mail lines in those days. Each Greenville was
sixty miles from Asheville. The stops between Greenville, S. C. and
Asheville were, first, at C. Montgomery's, ten miles north of Greenville,
then at Garmany's, twenty miles; then at Col. John Davis', near the State
line, where Col. David Vance was taken to die after his duel with Carson
in 1827; then at Hendersonville; then at Shufordsville, or Arden, 12
miles, then at Asheville. Col. Ripley sold out to John T. Poole, of
Greenville, S.C., about 1855, and he ran hacks till 1865 when Terrell W.
Taylor bought him out and continued to run hacks till the Spartanburg &
Asheville Railroad reached Tryon, about 1876.

OLD STAGE COACH CONTRACTORS. J. C. Hankins of Greenville, Tenn., used to
have the line from that point to Warm Springs, his stages starting out
from Greenville nearly opposite the former residence of the late Andrew
Johnson, once President of the United States, and whose son, Andrew
Johnson, Jr., married Elizabeth, the second daughter of Col. J. H.
Rumbough of Hot Springs. He stopped running this line however, when the
railroad reached Wolf Creek in 1868. The late Wm. P. Blair of Asheville,
who used to run the old Eagle hotel, also ran the stage line from
Asheville to Greenville, Tenn., (this was at the beginning of the Civil
War) until his stock and coaches were captured by Col. G. W. Kirk. In
July, 1866, Col. Rumbough ran the stage line from Greenville Tenn., to
Greenville, S. C. The "stands," as the stopping places were called, were
breakfast at Warm Springs, dinner at Marshall, supper at Asheville. Owing
to the condition of the roads Col. Rumbough cut down the toll gate at
Marshall in July, 1866, and the matter was compromised by all him to apply
the tolls to keeping the road in condition instead of letting the turnpike
company do it.

KEEN COMPETITORS. Col. Rumbough ran the line about a year and a half, when
Hon. A. H. Jones, congressman got the contract, but failed to carry it
out, and Col. Rumbough took it again.

THE MORGANTON LINE. The stage line from Morganton to the "head of the
railroad," as the various stopping place along the line as the road
progressed toward Asheville were called, was running many years before the
Civil War. After that, the late E. T. Clemmons of Salem came to Asheville
and operated the line from Old Fort to Asheville.

THROUGH HICKORY-NUT GAP. In 1834 Bedford Sherrill secured a four years'
contract to haul the mails from Salisbury via Lincolnton, Schenek's Cotton
mills, and Rutherfordton to Asheville. He moved shortly afterwards to
Hickory Nut gap, for years thereafter famous as one of the old taverns of
the mountains. Ben Seney of Tennessee succeeded him as mail carrier on
this route, but he did not complete his contract, giving it up before the
expiration of the four years. Old fashioned Albany stage coaches were used.

HACKS TO MURPHY. As the railroads approached Asheville the hacks and
stages were taken off. The late Pinckney Rollins ran a weekly hack line,
which carlied the mail, from Asheville to Murphy from about 1870, and
shortly afterward changed it to a daily line. But he failed at it, and
lost much money. The stopping places in 1871 were Turnpike for dinner,
Waynesville for supper, where a stop was made till next day. Then to
Webster for dinner sad Josh Frank's, two miles east of Franklin, for
supper arid night. The third day took the mail through Franklin to Aquone
for dinner at Stepp's, at the bridge(23); and to Mrs. Walker's, at Old
Valley Town, for supper. The next day the trip was made to Murphy for
dinner, and back that night to Old Valley Town. As the railroad progressed
toward Waynesville the hacks ran from the various termini to that town.

FROM SALEM TO JONESBOROUGH. As far back as 1840 stages or hacks ran from
Salem via Wilkesboro, Jefferson, Creston, through Ambrose gap,
Taylorsville, Tenn., to Jonesboro, Tennessee; but they were withdrawn at
least ten years before the Civil War, after which Samuel Northington ran a
line of hacks from Jeffersc,n to Taylorsville, now Mountain City,
Tennessee. Stages were run from Lenoir via Blowing Rock, Shulls Mills and
Zionville from 1852 to 1861.

MOONLIGHT AND THE OLD STAGE HORN. In 1828, when "Billy" Vance kept the
Warm Springs hotel, old fashioned stage coaches ran between Asheville and
Greenville, Tenn., and Greenville, S. C.(24) According to the recollection
of Dr. T. A. Allen of Hendersonville, N. C., "the old stage line back in
1840 was operated by the Stocktons of Maryland from Augusta, Ga., "via
Greenville, S. C., Asheville, N.C. the Warm Springs and across Paint
Mountain to Greenville, Tennessee. "The line from Greenville, S. C., to
Greenville, Tenn., was sold to the late Valentine Ripley, who bought it
and settled in Hendersonville about 1845." They ran Concord coaches--
sometimes called Albany coaches- which were swung on leather braces and
carried nine passenger. with a boot behind for trunks, and space on top
and beside the driver for several additional passengers. The driver was an
autocrat, and carried a long tin horn, which he blew as stopping places
were approached, to warn the inn-keeper of the number of passengers to be
entertained. Nothing was lovelier on a moonlit, frosty night than these
sweet notes echoing over hill and dale:

"0, hark, 0, hear, how thin and clear,
And thinner, clearer, farther going!
0, sweet and far from cliff and scar
The horns of Elfiand faintly blowing!"

When the railroad was completed to Greenville, S.C., in 1855, Col. Ripley
ran stages from Greenville, Tenn., to Greenville, S. C., daily, though in
1853 he had been limited to the run from Greenville, S. C., to Asheville,
N. C."(25)

JEFFERSON AND WILKESBOROUGH TURNPIKE. In 1901 the Wilkesborough and
Jefferson Turnpike company incorporated. (Private Laws, ch. 286) and the
road was completed in five years. The State simply furnished the convicts
and the stockholders the provisions and the expenses of the guard.

OTHER COUNTIES GET GOOD ROADS. In 1911 Hon. J. H. Dillard secured the
passage by the legislature of a road law under which Murphy township is
authorized to issue $150,000.00 of six per cent bonds for the improvement
of the roads and the four main streets of the town and roads leading into
the country. Haywood had already done much for the improvement of its
roads, while Watauga has undoubtedly the best roads west of the Blue
Ridge, the roads to Blowing Rock, Shull's Mills, Boone, Valle Crucis and
Banners Elk and Elk Cross roads being unsurpassed anywhere.

CARVER'S GAP ROAD. Chapter 63 of the Private laws of 1881, amended chapter
72 of Private laws of 1866-67 by allowing John L. Wilder, John E. Toppan
and others to build a turnpike from Wilder's forge on Big Rock creek
across Roan mountain to Carver's gap on the Tennessee State line; and to
make a turnpike from Carver's gap down the valley of Little Rock creek to
the ford of said creek at John G. Burlison's dwelling house.

CONVICTS TO MAKE COUNTY ROADS. On the 6th of Febraury, 1893, the Buncombe
county commissioners approved a bill which had been introduced in the
legislature by Gen. R. B. Vance to use convicts for working county roads,
which has proven beneficent, except that negroes and whites are crowded
together in too small quarters. Convicts prefer work in the open air to
confinement in jails and penitentiaries.

END OF TOLL GATES. On the 5th of September, 1881, the old Buncombe
Turnpike company surrendered and the commissioners accepted its charter.
The turnpike down the French Broad river having been turned over to the
Western North Carolina railroad company for stock in that enterprise in
1869, all that was left to be surrendered was the road the Henderson
county line to Asheville, passing through Limestone township. Gradually
each [missing word] took over one great Western Turnpike from Asheville to
Murphy, thus abolishing toll gates along the road, the 1egislature having
authorized this change. There are still toll gates on some roads, but they
have been specially authorized by legislative enactment, and are
comparatively few, Yonahlossee and Elk Park roads being, of the number.

RIP VANWINKLE BUNCOMBE. From 1880 to 1896 Asheville had gone ahead by
leaps arid bounds, having in that time paved its streets, built electric
railroads, hotels and private residence's that are still the pride of all;
but the county had stood still. Its old court house, jail and alms house
were a reflection on the progress of the times. But in 1896, "Cousin
Caney" Brown was elected chairman of the board of county commissioners,
and graded a good road from Smith's bridge in the direction of his farm,
using the county convicts for the work.(26) He had a farm at the end of
the road, it is true, and was criticised for building the road; but it was
such a well graded thoroughfare and such an object lesson that the people
not only forgave him for providing a better road to his home, but all
commissioners who have followed him havebeen afraid not to contribute
something to what he began.

MARK L. REED. Profiting by the example set by "Cousin Caney," M. L. Reed
spent a lot of good money building other roads which were macadamized,
placing good steel bridges over creeks and rivers where they had long been
needed, and in replacing the disgraceful old court house by a modern
structure, and providing a jail that is ample for the demands of humanity
and the times. A decent home was provided for orphan children of the
county. The old alms house was given up and better quarters provided for
the old and and infirm of the county. "Cousin Caney" had set the pace, and
soon other good roads and good roads sentiment followed.

BUNCOMBE GOOD ROADS ASSOCIATION. The Good Roads Association of Asheville
and Buncombe county was organized March 6, 1899, Dr. C. P. Ambler was the
president and B. M. Jones secretary and treasurer. These officers have
been continued in their positions ever since. Their object is the
construction and improvement of roads. They have succeeded in
accomplishing much good-not the least of of which are mile posts and sign
boards. They raised $5,000.00 to improve the road from Asheville to
Biltmore soon after its organization and $550 for the Survey of the "crest
of the Blue Ridge highway;" and constructed a horse-back trail to
Mitchell's Peak. They are advocating the construction of other highways.

YONAHLOSSEE TURNPIKE. About 1890 the Linville Improvement company was
formed, having among its stockholders Mr. S. T. Kelsey, formerly of
Highlands, N. C., and before his building of that town, of Kansas. Through
his instrumentality, largely, assisted by the Messers. Ravenel and Donald
Macrae, the latter of Wilmington, there was constructed the most
picturesque and durable highway in the mountains or the State. It begins
at Linville City, two miles from Montezuma, Avery county, and runs around
the eastern base of Grandfather mountain to Blowing Rock, a distance of
twenty miles. It cost about $18,000 complete. It gave an impetus to other
road-builders. A road was soon thereafter built from Blowing Rock to
Boone, and from Valle Crucis to Banners Elk. There are no finer roads in
the State, and built on more difficult ground. In 1912 they were the
delight of numerous automobile owners.

(1. "Asheville's Centenary")

(2. The first brakes were made of hickory saplings whose branches were
twined around the front axle and bent around the hind wheels; afterwards
came "locking chains" attached to the body of wagons and then passed
between the spokes of the wheels to retard the vehicle's going down steep
grades. Young trees dragged on the road also served at times)

(3. "Asheville's Centenary")

(4. Roosevelt (Vol. I, 225) records the fact that on his return from his
first visit to Watauga, in the fall of 1770, James Robertson lost his way,
and for 14 days lived on nuts and berries, and abandoned his horse among
impassible precipices. If he followed up the left bank of the Watauga and
did not see that the Doe came into the former stream at whit is now
Elizabethton, it is easy to see how he followed up the left bank of the
latter and got lost amid the precipices of what is now Pardee's Point)
(5. Ibid., Vol.III, pp.97-98)

(6. "Dropped Stitches in Tennessee History," p.4)

(7. Letter from Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone to J.P.A., December 3, 1912)

(8. "Asheville's Centenary". Wheeler's "History of North Carolina", p.476)

(9. Deed Book E., p.121-2, Buncombe)

(10. Statement of Francis Marion Wells to J. P. A., July 15, 1912. Old
Newport is three miles above the present town, the railroad does not pass
the former at all)

(11. This must have been a local name for this part of the range, for the
real Unaka mountains are southwest of Little Tennessee river)

(12. This is spelled Neilson)

(13. Deed Book E, Buncombe, p.122)
(14. Ibid., p.121)

(15. "Asheville's Centenary")
(16. Ibid)

(17. See chapter on Cherokee Indians)

(18. Deed Book E, Beg. Deeds, Buncombe county, pp. 122-123)

(19. Davenport's Diary quoted in chapter on boundaries)

(20. Sketch of Graham County by Rev. Joseph A. Wiggins, Feburary 3, 1912)

(21. Capt. James W. Tenell in The Commonwealth, Asheville, June 1, 1893)

(22. Condensed from "Asheville's Centenary", 1898)

(23. But from 1872 dinner was taken at Capt. A. R. Munday's)

(24. Col. J. H. Rumbough to J. P. A., November 13, 1912)

(25. Dr. T. A. Allen to J. P. A., November 12, 1912)

(26. This was T. Caney Brown)