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History of Nebraska - Chapter 2
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CHAPTER II
ABORIGINAL OCCUPANTS -- SPANISH AND FRENCH EXPLORERS -- AMERICAN
EXPEDITIONS -- FUR TRADE -- FIRST SETTLEMENTS -- EARLY TRADERS --
AUTHENTIC EXPLORATIONS
THE natural tendency of migration since history began has been
westward; and the movements of the Amerind are not an exception to this
general rule. As the streams which drain North America have a general
trend from north to south, and as the rule for human activity is to
proceed along the lines of least resistance, it might be supposed that the
Amerind would follow up these streams and change the general order by
moving forward from south to north or from north to south. There was a
stronger influence than the mere contour of the land which drew the tide
of emigration, although this had its effect to such an extent that the
route of travel had a west-by-northwest trend. The food supply became the
main factor in determining the direction of migration. The buffalo, which,
though indigenous to the whole central region of North America, were
partial to the open country, enticed the Indian to the Nebraska plains,
which they possessed in vast herds. This useful animal was the source of
supply for every want: food from his flesh, raiment and shelter from his
hide, implements from his bones, vessels for holding liquids from his
intestines, and fuel from his dung. The buffalo made it possible for great
numbers of Indians to subsist in comparative ease on the treeless plains
of Nebraska. How much of the food supply of the aborigines, before the
advent of the buffalo, may have been derived from agricultural pursuits is
unknown; but it is certain that as the tribes spread westward and the
buffalo became more numerous, agriculture decreased, until, when white
settlers first came in contact with the tribes of Nebraska, little
attention was given to it.
By far the greater number of Indian tribes, which have inhabited the
territory that now comprises Nebraska, followed this general rule of
migration from east to west. These tribes belonged to two linguistic
families, the Algonkian(2) and Siouan. Both of these great families sprang
from the region east of the Appalachian mountains and in turn occupied
nearly the whole of the Mississippi valley.
The first occupants of Nebraska did not follow this rule. The Caddoan
linguistic family had its home in the South near the banks of the Red
river, and migrated northward, occupying the valleys of the Kansas river,
and reaching northward to the valley of the Platte river and westward to
the foothills of the mountains. Two other linguistic families, the
Shoshonean and Kiowan, encroached on our territory from the west. They
hunted along the headwaters of the Republican and Platte rivers, and
claimed part of the territory of this state, although few, if any, ruins
of their permanent homes are found within its present limits. Only these
five linguistic families were found in Nebraska, and but two of them, the
Caddoan and Siouan, are of importance to our history. Tribes of these two
families had their permanent habitat within the state, and fought with one
another and among themselves for su-
(1. This classification of Indian tribes and bands should be credited to
Mr. E. E. Blackman, archaeologist of the Nebraska State Historical
Society; and the particulars as to the numbers and location of certain
tribes, before the organization of Nebraska territory, to a paper by Clyde
B. Aitchison.)
(2. In the spelling of the names of Indian tribes it has been found more
practicable to follow the Standard dictionary than the diverse and
contradictory usage of scientific writers in the reports of the Bureau of
Ethnology.-ED.)
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[image caption: CHIEF WOLF ROBE Cheyenne]
[image caption: CHIEF BLACK BEAR Sioux]
[image caption: BLUE WINGS Winnebago]
[image caption: EAGLE FEATHER & PAPOOSE Sioux]
[image caption: CHIEF RED BEAR Arapahoe. HOWARD FROST INTERP. Omahas]
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premacy on our eastern border and along the Platte valley.
The original home of the Caddoan linguistic family was on the Red river
of the south. Prior to the year 1400, one band, known as the Skidi,
branched off from the main stock and drifted to the Platte valley. The
exact line of migration is difficult to determine, but a tradition says
this tribe lived as allies of the Omahas near the mouth of the Ohio river.
It is not impossible that they may have followed up the Missouri river in
coming to the Platte valley, where, according to Dunbar,
[image caption: From a photograph owned by Mr. A. E. Sheldon. MARPIYA LUTA
(RED CLOUD) Chief of the Ogallala Sioux, at the age of seventy years]
they were located in 1400. Prior to 1500, another band branched off from
the main stock and drifted northward to a point near the present Kansas-
Nebraska line. Here the Wichitas turned back and went south, while the
Pawnees moved northward and occupied the Platte valley and intervening
country. In 1541 Coronado found the Wichitas near the Kansas river and
sent a summons to the "Lord of Harahey" (the Pawnee) to visit him, which
he did with two hundred naked warriors. This is the earliest authentic
record of Indian occupancy of Nebraska. This is the first time civilized
man (if we can call Coronado's followers civilized) ever saw an Indian
from what is now Nebraska. All history before this is legendary, and
legendary history is so conflicting that we may only say that it is
possibly true.
How far Onate penetrated in his trip northeastward from New Mexico, in
1599, is difficult to determine. He says he visited the city of Quivera,
which was on the north bank of a wide and shallow river (very like the
Platte). He says he fought with "Escanzaques" and killed "a thousand."
This battle may have been in Nebraska. Penalosa also claims to have
visited the same locality in 1662, to have met the "Escanzaques," and to
have beaten them in a like encounter.
When these brief glimpses into Spanish history are substantiated by
further research we may be able to add some early data bearing on Indian
occupancy of Nebraska.
The Pawnees (proper), consisting of three main tribes, the Choui (or
Grand), the Pitahow-e-rat (or Tapage), and the Kit-ke-hak-i (or
Republican) emigrated to the Platte valley prior to 1500. They held the
country fifty miles west of the Missouri river, and eventually conquered
the Skidi band, which had come here a hundred years before, and adopted it
into their own tribe. Before the Pawnees came, however, a band called
Arikara had drifted away from the Skidi band and established itself on the
Missouri river, but out of the bounds of Nebraska. The Arikaras came into
Nebraska and lived with the Skidi tribe for three years, from 1832 to
1835, when they returned home.
In the Huntsman's Echo of February 21, 1861, the editor thus
perspicuously describe, the condition of the Pawnees on their reserve at
Genoa, as he had ascertained it by a visit there a few days before:
The Pawnees number at present about four thousand souls and a fraction
over, and when "at home" live in a cluster of huts built with crotches and
poles, covered, top and sides,
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with willows, then with grass and dirt, giving the appearance at a little
distance of an immense collection of "potato hills," all of a circular
shape and oval. The entrance is through a passage walled with earth, the
hole in the center at top serving both for window and main room by
partitions of willow, rush or flag, some of them being neatly and tidily
constructed, and altogether these lodges are quite roomy and comfortable,
and each is frequently the abode of two or more families. In these
villages there is no regularity of streets, walks, or alleys, but each
builds in a rather promiscuous manner, having no other care than to taste
and convenience.
The tribe is divided into five bands, each being under a special chief
or leader, and the whole confederation being under one principal chief.
Each band has its habitation separate and distinct from the other, three
bands living in villages adjoining and all composing one village, the
other two villages, some little distance. There is frequently some
considerable rivalry between the several bands in fighting, hunting, and
other sports, and not infrequently one band commits thefts upon the
effects of another.
At this time, we are told, the Pawnees had several thousand horses, but
owing to the hard winter hundreds had died from sore-tongue and other
diseases. The animals lived out all the winter upon the dry grass; but if
the snow was too deep for them to reach it, cottonwood trees were cut down
and the horses would subsist upon the bark. These horses were above the
luxuries of civilized life, and refused to eat corn when it was placed
before them. They were valued at from thirty to sixty dollars each.
The Pawnees at this time usually took two general hunts each year in
which all the people, old and young, great and small, participated,
abandoning their villages to go to the buffalo range. From the spoils of
the summer hunt they made jerked meat and lodge skins; and from those of
the fall hunt, in October and November, they made robes, furs, tanned
skins, and dried meat. These Indians had a field of considerable extent
near each village where the land was allotted to the various families, and
goodly quantities of corn and beans were grown. With these and a little
flour and sugar they managed to eke out a miserable existence, sometimes
full-fed and sometimes starved.
The females are the working bees of the hive; they dig up the soil,
raise and gather the crops, cut timber and build the lodges, pack wood and
water, cook, nurse the babies, carry all the burdens, tan the skins and
make the robes and moccasins. The lords of the other sex recline by the
fire or in the shade, kill the game and their enemies, do the stealing and
most of the eating, wear the most ornaments, and play the dandy in their
way to a scratch. They are of a tall, graceful, and athletic figure, as
straight as an arrow and as proud as a lord, whilst the squaws are short,
thick, stooping, poorly clad, filthy, and squalid. Parentless children and
the very aged are sometimes left behind, or by the wayside, to perish as
useless.
Pike visited the Republican Pawnees in 1806; they dwelt near the south
line of the state until about 1812, when they joined the rest of the band
north of the Platte river. Dunbar(3) gives the location of the various
tribes in 1834; the Choui band resided on the south bank of the Platte,
twenty miles above the mouth of the Loup; the Kit-ke-hak-i lived eighteen
miles northwest, on the north side of the Loup; the Pita-how-e-rat, eleven
miles farther up the Loup, and the Skidi, five miles above these; and he
says they changed their villages every eight or ten years. In 1833 the
Pawnees ceded the territory south of the Platte to the United States. In
1857 they ceded the territory north of the Platte, except their
reservation in Nance county. The territory ceded, according to Chas. C.
Royce,(4) embraced the central third of the entire state. The reservation
above mentioned was ceded in 1876, and the Pawnees were taken to Indian
Territory, where they now have a reservation.
The various branches of the Siouan linguistic stock have come to this
state at five different times. The first were the Mandans, whose coming is
shrouded in antiquity. Catlin claims to have traced their earthworks and
habitat down the Ohio river and up the Mis-
(3. Mag. Am. Hist., vols. 4 and 5.)
(4. 18th Rept. Bureau of Ethnology, pt. 2.)
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ILLUSTRATIONS OF INDIAN HOUSE ARCHITECTURE AMONG THE PLAINS TRIBES
[image caption: Photos 1, 2, by Melvin R. Gilmore, Bethany, Nebraska; 4,
by U. G. Cornell, Lincoln, Nebraska; 5, A. E. Sheldon, Lincoln, Nebraska.
1. Pawnee earth lodge circular in form, supported by a circle of heavy
upright pillars, the wall formed of upright, slightly inclined poles
covered with earth; the roof, dome-shaped, with an opening at the apex for
ventilation and light. At the left of the engraving is a summer or
temporary lodge. In the foreground is seen the framework of a sweat lodge.
2. West side of interior of Pawnee earth lodge. Fireplace in center, the
smoke from which is directed by a skin blanket, supported on the windward
side of the roof by three sticks. In the background is seen the family
altar made of sod, near which stands the sacred drum; above the altar
generally hung the sacred bundle. The beds are arranged about the wall. 3.
Omaha earth lodge. This particular lodge existed some years ago twelve
miles north of Omaha. 4. Santee Sioux tepee. 5. Rear view of Winnebago
bark lodge.]
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souri.(5) McGee says the Siouan family began to cross the Appalachian
mountains one thousand years ago. The Mandans were among the first to
break off from the parent stock, and the only excuse we have for including
them in our history is the probability that they crossed our borders on
their way up the Missouri river some time prior to the coming of the Skidi
band in 1400.
McGee says the Omaha tribe was near the mouth of the Ohio river in
1500, so its coming to Nebraska must have been after that date. It is
traced quite accurately up the Missouri and Des Moines rivers to its
present home in the northeast part of Nebraska. The Osage tribe branched
off and remained at the Osage river. The Kansas tribe came on to the
Kansas river, and there established its permanent habitat. The date of the
arrival of the Kansas tribe is sufficiently early to allow the
"Escanzaques" of Onate to be regarded as Kansas Indians. The Omahas and
Poncas remained together until about 1650, when the latter moved northward
and occupied the country from the mouth of the Niobrara west to the Black
Hills. By the treaty of March 16, 1854, the Omahas ceded the northeast
third of the present state to the United States, excepting that part north
of a line drawn due west from the mouth of the Aoway river. That tongue of
land which was added to Nebraska in 1890, by authority of the act of
Congress of March 28, 1882, and which lies between the Niobrara, Keya
Paha, and Missouri rivers, was ceded by the Poncas in 1858, except a small
reservation. In 1877 the Poncas were moved to Indian Territory.
The Dakota City Herald,(6) in noting that the Omahas had just received
their annuity on their reservation from Captain Moore, Indian agent, makes
the following observation as to their condition: "They are being gathered
to their fathers fast, very fast, as they now number only 964 savage
souls. The amount of their payment was $23,000 and averaged about $24 a
head. Since Uncle Sam supplied them with a few 'scads' they have paid
frequent visits to our town, and laid something out for the purpose of
laying something in." From the observant editor's remarks it appears that
the Indians did not confine their inebriety to alcoholic drinks. He
relates that "five of these red sons of the forest, two red squaws in red
blankets, and one pale red papoose put up at the Bates house on Sunday
night for supper." They had a table by themselves, by courtesy of the
landlord, and, "in the language of the Arkansas bride, 'they sot and sot'
until they stowed away everything eatable within reach or sight. Seventy-
seven cups of coffee were drank at the sitting, and but one, a young
squaw, gave out. After getting down seven cups she failed on coffee; the
others kept on until the kettle gave out. When the meal was over they paid
the landlord two bits apiece and departed."
The third detachment of the Siouan family to occupy Nebraska consisted
of three tribes, the Otoe, Missouri, and the Iowa. The Otoes and lowas
have always been closely related. They were first seen at the mouth of the
Des Moines river by Marquette in 1673. They are said, by tradition, to
have sprung from the Winnebago stock. It is stated that in 1699 they went
to live near the Omahas. The Missouris have had a very checkered career.
They were first seen in 1670 at the mouth of the Missouri river. Soon
after 1700 they were overcome by the Sac and Fox and other tribes. Most of
them joined the Otoe tribe, but a few went with the Osage and some joined
the Kansas tribe. They have never ceded land to the United States except
in company with the Otoes, but they have been a party to every Otoe
transaction. To all intents and purposes the Otoes and Missouris have been
as one tribe during their occupancy of this state.
The Otoes and Missouris ceded the southeast portion of the state to the
United States in 1833; this cession embraced the land south and west of
the Nemaha. The remaining portion of land which they claimed, lay between
the Nemaha, Missouri, and Platte rivers, reaching as far west as Seward
county. This last tract was ceded in 1854, when they returned to their
reservation south of Beatrice.
(5. Catlin, North American Indians.)
(6. November 19, 1859.)
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[image caption: Engraving from a photograph taken in New York City in
1866, and owned by the Nebraska State Historical Society. A GROUP OF
WINNEBAGO INDIAN CHIEFS, WITH THEIR AGENT, ROBERT W. FURNAS, TRADER MAJOR
F. J. DEWITT, AND INTERPRETERS]
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This they relinquished in 1881, and they now live in Oklahoma. Most of the
Iowas remained east of our border until 1836, when they were given a tract
of land along the south bank of the Nemaha. This they retained in part in
individual allotment, but they remained under the Great Nemaha agency.
This tribe was always closely associated with the Otoe, but was never
under the same tribal organization as was the Missouri tribe. All three
tribes belonged to the same branch of the Siouan family as the Winnebago.
These cessions gave the United States title to the east two-thirds of
the state. The earliest treaty by which they acquired title to land in
this state was made with the Kansas in 1825; by this treaty the Kansas
ceded a semicircular tract along the south line, reaching from Falls City
to Red Willow county and nearly as far north as Lincoln. So it seems that
the Kansas laid claim to at least part of our territory.
The next detachment of the great Siouan family to invade Nebraska was
from the northern branch of this tribe which dwelt along the Great Lakes.
The Assiniboins had separated from this branch as early as 1650, and,
according to McGee, were near the Lake of the Woods in 1766, so they had
not long wandered over our soil when written history began.
The Pawnees and Omahas joined in repelling the advance of these
northern tribes and held them well back front the waterways for many
years, but they hunted on the head-waters of the Platte and Republican and
even as far south as the head-waters of the Smoky Hill and Solomon rivers.
The Crows were doubtless the first to encroach on the Platte valley;
they drifted to the Black Hills in an early day and hunted on the Platte
from the northwest. The Blackfeet, a branch of the Saskatchewan tribe,
came later. The Yankton, Santee, Brulé Sisseton, Ogallala, Teton,
Minnetaree, and parts of other tribes from time to time hunted or fought
on the head-waters of the Platte. They joined in ceding the northwest part
of the state to the United States in 1868, reserving for themselves a
common hunting right, which they relinquished in 1875. They are now on the
various reservations in Dakota and Indian Territory.
The Winnebagoes were the last of the great Siouan family to come; they
were moved from Minnesota to a part of the Omaha reservation in 1862,
where they still reside. Schoolcraft says this tribe once lived on a
branch of the Crow Wing river in Minnesota. Some of the Santee Sioux were
moved to Nebraska at the same time, but many of both tribes came across
the country before.
[image caption: Photograph owned by the Nebraska State Historical Society.
SENTEGALESKA (SPOTTED TAIL) Hereditary Chief-of the Sioux]
To the Algonkian family belong the Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Atsina, who
wandered over the western part of Nebraska, as did the Sac and Fox tribe,
which had a reservation in the extreme southeast part of the state from
1836 to 1885. The Algonkian family once occupied the greater part of the
Mississippi valley. At a very early date the Cheyennes drifted westward
through the Dakotas and gave their name to one of the important streams.
Later they drifted southward. Lewis and Clark mentioned this tribe as
occupying a
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position on the Cheyenne river in 1804, while Long in his expedition of
1819 found a small band which had seceded from the main stock on the
Cheyenne river, and had roamed with the Arapaho along the Platte river,
There is a record, by Fremont, of this tribe being on the Platte above
Grand Island in 1843. They ceded the southwestern portion of Nebraska in
1861.
The Arapahos, like the Cheyennes, occupied Nebraska as a roaming tribe.
The impression left by the very limited number of writers who have spoken
of them, seems to be that they came from the north. They were pressed by
the Sioux from the east and by the Shoshoneans from the west. The date of
their coming to Nebraska is obscure. The time of their separation from the
eastern parent stock is shrouded in antiquity; and as early travelers
found them a wild race, and not easy to study, little of their early
history is recorded. They joined the Cheyenne and Arkansas Indians in
ceding to the United States government the extreme southwest portion of
Nebraska. So far as can be learned the Arkansas never occupied any part of
Nebraska. The Atsinas were closely allied to the Blackfeet (Siouan) and,
since whites have known them, have affiliated with that tribe. They are
distinctly Algonkian, however, and have a legend telling how they came to
separate from the Arapahos.
As stated above, the Algonkian stock occupied most of the Mississippi
valley at one time. The United States purchased all of Missouri north of
the river, most of Iowa, and a part of Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota
from the Sacs and Foxes. They seem to have been the original owners of the
Mississippi and Missouri front, and the Siouan tribes as they drifted
westward doubtless had them to deal with. This may account for the
movement westward of the Otoe and the Kansas tribes across the river. The
Sacs and Foxes relinquished their possessions and retired to a southern
reservation, excepting a band which took a reserve on the Great Nemaha
river, partly in Nebraska and partly in Kansas, and which remains in the
Great Nemaha agency.
Powell(7) does not believe that the Shoshonean family occupied a part
of Nebraska, and it is doubtful whether any part of this family had more
than a transient home within the state. It is certain that the Comanches
roamed over our territory, and doubtless the "Padoucas" once had a more or
less permanent home here; at least the north fork of the Platte river was
known in the early days as the Padouca fork. Mooney(8) says: "In 1719 the
Comanche were mentioned under their Siouan name of Padouca as living in
what is now western Kansas. It must be remembered that five hundred to
eight hundred miles was an ordinary range for a Plains tribe, and the
Comanches were equally at home on the Platte or in Chihuahua (Mexico)."
The great Shoshonean family occupied the mountain country from the south
line of Oregon to the north line of Arizona, and extended from the Pacific
coast at the southwest corner of California, nearly to the west line of
what is now Nebraska. It was a powerful and numerous people. Later the
Siouan bands drove the Comanches south and the other branches of the
Shoshonean family west and north. Lewis and Clark, in 1805, mention the
Padoucas as extinct except in name. Bourgmont visited the Padoucas on the
head-waters of the Kansas in 1724. The Comanches and the Kansas were close
associated for one hundred and fifty years says Mooney. There is no record
that the Comanches ever ceded any part of this state to the United States.
About 1700 a tribe of the Kiowan family migrated from the far northwest
and took up a residence in the vicinity of the Black Hills. From there it
was driven by the Siouan tribes, and Lewis and Clark mention it as
residing on the north fork of the Platte in 1805, and numbering seventy
tepees. It slowly drifted southward until it occupied the country south of
the Arkansas river. As this tribe never lived far from the mountains, its
occupancy of Nebraska was but transient. Powell shows this linguistic
family as occupying the extreme southwest part of Nebraska, but there is
no
(7. 7th Ann. Rept. Bureau of Ethnol., p. 109.)
(8. 14th Ann. Rept. Bureau of Ethnol., pt. 2, p. 1044.)
Page 33
record that it ever ceded any part of the state. There was a "half-breed"
tract situated between the Nemaha and Missouri rivers set apart in 1830,
intended for the home of civilized Indians belonging to the Omaha, Iowa,
Otoe, Yankton, and Santee Sioux half-breeds. The Pine Ridge and Rosebud
agencies are located just north of the north line of Nebraska, in South
Dakota, and the Indian title to a
[image caption: From a photograph owned by Mrs. Harriet S. MacMurphy,
Omaha. HENRY FONTENELLE United States interpreter to the Omaha Indians]
narrow strip adjoining in this state is not yet extinguished. There are
titles in the old Sac and Fox and Iowa reservation, in Richardson county,
still vested in Indians, and a few live there. The Santee agency, near
Niobrara, still maintains an agent who reports to the commissioner of
Indian affairs for this tribe and also for the Ponca subagency, situated
twenty miles west between the Niobrara and Missouri rivers. The Indians at
these agencies, together with the Omahas and Winnebagoes, in Thurston
county, are the only Indian wards of the government in Nebraska at the
present time. According to the census of 1900 there were 3,322 Indians in
the state, against 2,685 in 1890. An Indian school is maintained by the
federal government in this state, on the Santee, the Winnebago, and the
Omaha reservations, while a boarding school for Indians is situated at
Genoa, in Nance county.
All tribal lands, except a small part of the Omaha reservation, have
been allotted in severalty, and all Indians are taxed as citizens of the
state. The Omahas now number twelve hundred and the Winnebagos eleven
hundred. The Omahas are of a higher grade of development and civilization
and are slowly increasing in numbers. In their married relations they
observe the principle of monogamy with creditable faithfulness, and they
are inclined to hold on to and to cultivate their lands. The Winnebagos,
on the other hand, live much more loosely in this respect; comparatively
few of them are lawfully married, and they have but little regard for the
marriage bond. They are much less persistent than the Omahas in holding on
to their lands, and less regular and industrious in their habits. All the
lands of the reservation, except a few hundred acres of a very poor
quality, have now been allotted. Under the law, lands which have been
allotted can not be alienated by the original grantees nor by their
inheritors as long as there are minor heirs. Thus far this class of lands
amounts to about ten per cent of the total allotment, or about fifteen
hundred acres. As late as 1846 there were only a very few white settlers,
scattered here and there, in that part of southwestern Iowa bordering on
the Missouri river. By the treaty of September 26, 1833, five million
acres of land in southwestern Iowa, extending north to the mouth of Boyer
river, south to the mouth of the Nodaway river, and east to the west line
of the Sac and Fox lands, were granted to the Pottawatomie tribe of
Indians, numbering about twenty-two hundred and fifty. Some Ottawas and
Chippeways, living with the Pottawatomies were participants in this grant.
All of these Indians had been removed from the vicinity of Chicago. A
subagency and trading post was established at Traders Point (or at St.
Francis), Iowa. By a treaty with
Page 34
[image captions: Alice A Minick -- Jno. S. Minick]
NOTE -- John S. Minick was one of the incorporators of the Nemaha County
Agricultural Society, incorporated by act of the territorial legislature,
February 9, 1857, and was elected president of the board September 12,
1857. He was for a number of years a merchant at Nemaha City and at
Aspinwall and was in business at the former place as late as 1885. He was
an active worker in the Good Templar organization. According to the
Brownville Advertiser, Mr. Minick had his entire claim of 160 acres fenced
and under cultivation in June, 1857, fourteen months after he had located
upon it.
Page 35
the United States, made "at the agency near Council Bluffs," June 5, 1846,
the Pottawatomies relinquished these Iowa lands. The agency at Bellevue,
on the opposite side of the Missouri river, had jurisdiction over the
Omahas, Otoes, Poncas, and Pawnees. The Council Bluffs subagency on the
Iowa side of the river was subject to the agency at Bellevue.
As has already been indicated, Council Bluffs, was as shifting as the
great river whose shores its various sites adorned. It was first applied
to the Lewis and Clark encampment, eighteen miles north of Omaha; then, by
reflection and by a sort of evolutionary southward movement, to Bellevue;
still later, to the subagency on the Iowa border opposite Bellevue. In
1853 -- January l9th -- Council Bluffs was substituted for Kanesville,
which was the original name (after a brother of Kane, the arctic explorer)
of the hamlet on the site of the present city of Council Bluffs.
Thereafter the place was known by its present name by designation of the
postoffice department; and it was formally incorporated by act of the Iowa
assembly, February 24, 1853. According to the Frontier Guardian of
September 18, 1850, a census taken at that time yielded a population of 1,
103 for Kanesville and 125 for Trading Point or Council Bluffs; so that as
late as that date the migratory name of Council Bluffs had not reached the
northern settlement of Kanesville, but by local usage was confined to
Traders, or Trading Point.
The domain of the Omahas lay to the north of the Platte river, and that
of the Otoes about its mouth -- both, along the Missouri river. A strip of
land intervening was a source of chronic dispute between these tribes. At
the time of the Louisiana Purchase the Otoes numbered about two hundred
warriors, including twenty-five or thirty Missouris. A band of this tribe
had been living with the Otoes for about twenty-five years. In 1799 the
Omahas numbered five hundred warriors; but as the Mormons found them in
1846 this tribe, and the Otoes as well, had been reduced by the scourge of
smallpox to a mere remnant of their former numbers. These Indians are
described by their white neighbors of that time as being almost destitute
of martial spirit and not viciously inclined, but naturally ready to rob
and steal when prompted by hunger, which, unfortunately for their white
neighbors, was their nearly chronic condition. Orson Hyde, editor of the
Frontier Guardian, in its issue of March 21, 1849, inspired by the
[image caption: From a photograph in the Coffin collection, in the Museum
of the Nebraska State Historical Society. PIT-A-LE-SHAR-U (MAN CHIEF) Head
chief of the Pawnees]
wisdom of Solomon, advised the use of the rod, and a real hickory at that,
on the thieving Omahas and others. It is said that the Omahas were
exceptionally miserable. "Unprotected from their old foes, the Sioux, yet
forbidden to enter into a defensive alliance with them, they were reduced
to a pitiable handful of scarcely more than a hundred families, the
Page 36
prey of disease, poverty-stricken, too cowardly to venture from the shadow
of their tepees to gather their scanty crops, unlucky in the hunt, slow in
the chase, and too dispirited to be daring or successful thieves."
In the region between the Niobrara and Missouri rivers were the Poncas,
some five hundred or six hundred in number, and but little better than the
Omahas and Otoes in condition and circumstances. According to Lewis and
Clark, the Grand Pawnee and Republican Pawnee, numbering respectively five
hundred and two hundred and fifty men, dwelt in 1804, on the south side of
the Platte opposite the mouth of the Loup; the Pawnee, Loup or Wolf
Pawnee, comprising two hundred and eighty men, on the Loup fork of the
Platte about ninety miles above the principal Pawnee; and a fourth band of
four hundred men on the Red river. Clayton's Emigrant's Guide, in 1848,
finds the old Pawnee Mission station at Plum Creek, latitude 41o 22' 37";
nine and a quarter miles east of the Loup Fork ford (latitude 41o 22' 37";
longitude 98o 11'); and the old Pawnee village, formerly occupied by the
Grand Pawnee and Tappa, half a mile west of the Loup Fork. This village
was burned by the Sioux in the fall of 1846. In the spring of 1847 the
Pawnee were found on the Loup Fork, about thirty miles east of the old
village, according to the same authority.
Celebrated Chieftains. Among the Indians distinction was won through
heroism upon the battlefield; consequently, their great men are warriors.
No doubt many of the great Indian chieftains would rank among their own
people with the great generals of the civilized nations. Indeed none could
be more brave nor exercise greater fearlessness and courage upon the
battlefield. They had no use for a coward, and deeds of bravery were
greatly prized. A history of the Plains country would be incomplete
without mention of a number of distinguished chieftains:
Marpiya Luta (Red Cloud), chief of the Ogalalla Sioux, was one of the
great generals in various wars against the United States. He was born in
1821 in Deuel county, Nebraska. Red Cloud earned distinction and the name
he bore at the age of sixteen, and for twenty years was a successful
leader against other Indian tribes. He planned the fight against Fort Phil
Kearney in 1866 in which nearly one hundred soldiers were slain. He
abandoned the war path in 1869. He prominent in all the councils and
treaties of his tribe after that date. In a tribal feud Red Cloud slew
Bull Bear, a prominent Sioux chief. His home for many years was in small
frame house near Pine Ridge agency. He visited Washington sixteen times.
spent his last years in total blindness.
Sentegaleska, (Spotted Tail), a Brule Sioux came up from the ranks and
became one of the most distinguished of the red men. He gained prominence
when only eighteen years old through deadly combat with a sub-chief, and
rose rapidly in the councils of his people until he was chosen hereditary
chief of the entire Sioux nation. He went to Washington as delegate in
1872, and was crowned "King the Sioux" in 1876 by General Crook.
Spotted Tail was not only a warrior of courage, but was unusually
trustworthy and was respected by the white men with whom he was always
friendly. He was killed in 1881 by Crow Dog, one of his sub-chiefs whom he
sought to discipline. The tragedy occurred at Rosebud agency as Spotted
Tail was preparing to visit Washington
Pit-a-le-shar-u (Man Chief) approaches more nearly a type of Indian
statesman than a warrior. He was of commanding presence, over six feet
tall and had an expressive face. He obtained the chieftainship of the
Pawnees in 1852, and lived in the vicinity of Fremont and Genoa. Man Chief
delighted in dress and wore a showy head-dress of eagle's feathers of
which he was extremely proud. He was in every way worthy of his high
office. He was a great orator and ruled his people wisely through
persuasion rather than by force. He was a delegate to Washington when the
treaty of 1858 was ratified. In 1874 a pistol wound in the thigh proved
fatal; the shot, though reported to be accidental, was probably fired
intentionally by someone who
Page 37
differed from him on the removal of the Pawnees to Indian Territory.
Logan Fontenelle (Shon-ga-ska), chief of the Omahas, was born near Fort
Calhoun in 1825. His father was a Frenchman of nobility and his mother an
Indian woman of the Omaha tribe. He was educated in St. Louis, but, upon
the death of his father in 1840, he returned to Nebraska and became an
interpreter. He was elected a chief of the Omahas in 1853 and retained the
position until his death in 1855. He was respected and honored by the
whites and had absolute control over his tribe. He was killed in battle
with the Sioux.
Ta-ta-nka-i-yo-ta-nke (Sitting Bull) was born in the spring of 1834 on
the banks of Grand river near the mouth of Stonewall creek in South
Dakota. This continued to be his habitat during the greater part of his
life. At the age of fourteen he achieved distinction on the war-path, and
his father bestowed upon him his own name, Sitting Bull. He was a priest,
or "medicine man," rather than a chief, but was a natural leader and
gained much power and influence among his people by organizing and leading
war parties. He came into special prominence by his participation in the
battle of the Little Bighorn in Montana, June 25, 1876, in which Custer's
entire command was slaughtered. Sitting Bull then made his escape into
Canada, where he remained five years, and finally surrendered to the
United States on promise of pardon. He was held a prisoner of war until
1883, when he again went to reside on Grand river. He continued, however,
to lead the opposition to the government and for seven years steadily
opposed the treaty which was finally executed in 1889. He continued to be
the center of Indian hostility until December, 1890, when he was killed
during an attempt to place him under arrest.
Expedition of Coronado. Spain was preeminently the seat of chivalry at
the time of the discovery of America and during the following centuries,
while the country now comprising the United States was being discovered
and colonized in detail -- until it was laughed out of her by Cervantes
and knocked out of her by the practical and prosy peoples of the more
northern countries and of the Teutonic race. But the spirit of chivalry
was prolific of adventurous discoverers, through whose valorous
enterprise, Spain had come to possess, at the time the little strip along
the Atlantic comprising the Americain colonies was ready for political
separation from Great Britain, the whole territory west of the Mississippi
river now comprised in Mexico and the United States, except that portion
within the limits of the states of Washington and Oregon. That part of
these Spanish domains north of the present boundary line of Mexico,
comprised more than two-thirds of the present area of the United States.
At this time Spain also dominated Central and South America. Though Spain
was the first discoverer of America, and established the first permanent
colony within the territory of the United States, she no longer owns a
foot of the continent; and she became so weak that she lost all her
holdings through force. It was of the spirit of Spanish chivalry to seek
success by the royal road. Her explorers and discoverers were either
animated by the search for gold -- like De Soto and Coronado -- or for
more illusive treasure, such as Ponce de Leon's elixir of life. But the
ultimate race was not to the swift nor the final battle to the strong. The
continent came to the men who knew how to wait.
While it is still an unsettled and perhaps not very important question
whether the Spanish Coronado was the first white man to set foot in
Nebraska, there is no doubt that he was the first white discoverer of whom
there is any account of the great Plains tributary to the Missouri river,
and that he came very near to the southern border of the state.
In 1539 a Franciscan friar, Marcos de Niza, whom Don Antonio de
Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico, had sent to investigate reports of populous
settlements in the region now comprized in Arizona and New Mexico, brought
stories of vast wealth in the Seven Cities of Cibola. An army of about
three hundred Spanish soldiers and one thousand Indians and
Page 38
servants was raised and equipped for the conquest of the new country, and
Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, governor of New Galicia, a western border
province of Mexico, was placed in command of the expedition. Coronado
appears to have been a bold and venturesome cavalier -- a fit lieutenant
of the ambitious viceroy. The expedition started from Compostela -- the
capital of Coronado's province, about three hundred and seventy-five miles
northwest from the city of Mexico February 23, 1540. On the 7th of July
Coronado, with an advanced detachment of the main army, captured one of
the seven small Zuni villages, which, situated near the present western
border of New Mexico, in about the latitude of 35o, and within a radius of
five leagues, constituted the Seven Cities of Cibola. These villages were
composed of small storehouses, three or four stories high, but the
disappointed Spaniards found in them poverty instead of the fabled riches.
On an expedition from this point, Coronado was partly compensated for his
disappointment, though doubtless in a way which he did not fully
appreciate, by discovering the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.
It was found that the riches lay far beyond, in the land of Quivera;
and probably, through a strategem to get rid of their cruel and oppressive
visitors, the story of the New Eldorado was told by a native of Quivera
who was met with as a captive of the natives of Cicuye, a fortified
village east of Cibola on the Pecos river. The "Turk," as the Spaniards
called the slave, on account of his appearance, told more stories of large
towns with hoards of gold and silver and vast herds of buffalo in his
country to the east. The greedy credulity of the Spaniards again listened
to these fabulous tales, and in April or May, 1541, the army took up its
eastward march with the Turk for its guide. The slave intentionally led
them by a wandering course far to the south, and, provisions becoming
scarce in the neighborhood of the head-waters of the Colorado river of
Texas, Coronado sent back all of the army excepting from twenty-six to
thirty-six soldiers, with whom he pushed northward on his journey of forty-
two days to Quivera, now under the guidance of a good Indian, Ysopete,
also a native of the Plains, the perfidious Turk having been taken into
custody. The party crossed the Arkansas in the neighborhood of its
southern bend, not far from the present site of Dodge City. Thus the first
white man's crossing of the Arkansas was at a place which, two hundred and
sixty years later, was to become an angle in the division between the
Louisiana Purchase ceded to the United States, and the residue of
territory still held by Spain. At this point the boundary line changed
from its northern course to the west along the Arkansas river. About
eighty miles to the northwest, at the site of the present town of Great
Bend, Coronado found the first Quivera village. He first met Indians of
that name beyond the crossing, not far from Kinsley and Larned. Here
imminence of his exposure seems to have moved the Turk to confession that
his people were strangers to the precious metals as well as to other
riches, and he was straightway strangled by enraged Spaniards. There was
now nothing for them to fall back upon, but appreciation of the richness
of the soil; for Jarmillo, one of their chroniclers, says: "Some
satisfaction was experienced on seeing the good appearance of the earth;"
and Coronado himself writes that the soil of Quivera was "fat and black,"
and "the best I have ever seen for producing all the products of Spain."
The buffalo is described by these travelers in a very naive and realistic
manner. Like the reindeer to Laplander, this beast was food and raiment
for the Indian natives, and it is curious to note that buffalo "chips"
were used for fuel then as they were until recent days by our own
pioneers. "One evening there came up a terrible storm of wind and hail,
which left in the camp hailstones as large as porringers, and even larger.
They fell thick as raindrops, and in some spots the ground was covered
with them to the depth of eight or ten inches. The storm caused many
tears, weakness, and vows." Making a moderate allowance for the quickened
imagination of the belated Spaniards, these stories of what they saw,
indicate that
Page 39
they journeyed not far from Nebraska. The substantial agreement of the
conclusions drawn by Mr. Hodge of the ethnological bureau, of the accounts
of their journey by the Spanish travelers themselves, with the actual
field work of Mr. J. V. Brower, leaves little room for doubt that these
adventurers reached the neighborhood of junction City, or perhaps
Manhattan, Kansas. Mr. Hodge, writing as late as 1899, observes that the
common error in determining latitude in the sixteenth century was about
two degrees; therefore when Coronado said that Quivera, "where I have
reached it, is in the 40th degree," that means that it was in fact in the
38th degree; and Mr. Hodge adds: "Nothing is found in the narratives to
show positively that either Coronado or any member of his force went
beyond the present boundaries of Kansas during their stay of twenty-five
days in the province of Quivera." Mr. E. E. Blackman of the Nebraska State
Historical Society, thinks that the statements accredited to the Indians
by Jaramillo, that there was nothing beyond the point reached by the
Spaniards but Harahey -- the Pawnee country -- coupled with his own
demonstrations that the Quivera village extended into Nebraska, show that
the Spaniards crossed our border; and Simpson's studies led him to the
conclusion that it is "exceedingly probable that he (Coronado) reached the
40th degree of latitude (now the boundary between the States of Kansas and
Nebraska) well on towards the Missouri river." Bandelier; George Winship
Parker, Hodge, and Brower all substantially agree with H. H. Bancroft's
earlier statement (1899) that, "there is nothing in the Spaniards'
descriptions of the region or of the journey to shake Simpson's conclusion
that Quivera was in modern Kansas."
The writings of the Spaniards referred to are, in the main, Coronado's
letters and formal accounts of the journey by Jaramillo, a captain in the
expedition, and of Castaneda who went back with the main body of the army,
but industriously collected his material from hearsay, The latest and
perhaps the most thorough manuscript work has been done by Parker in The
Coronado Expedition, and Hodge in Coronado's March, and the results of
their researches substantially accord with the field work of Brower and
Blackman, which is still under prosecution, and may yet show that Coronado
was the discoverer of Nebraska proper.
While this expedition appears to have been barren as to practical
results, yet it has been said of it that "for extent in distance traveled,
duration in time, extending from the spring
[image caption: From photograph owned by E. E. Blackman, vice. president
Quivera Historical Society. QUIVERA MONUMENT Near Junction City, Kansas]
of 1540 to the summer of 1542, and the multiplicity of its coöperating
branch explorations, it equaled, if it did not exceed, any land expedition
that has been undertaken in modern times." Another writer observes that "a
bare subsistence and threatened starvation were the only rewards in store
for the volunteers upon this most famous of all the Spanish explorations,
excepting those of Cortez. They discovered a land rich in mineral
resources, but others were to reap the benefits of the wealth of the
mountain. They discovered a
Page 40
land rich in material for the archaeologist, but nothing to satisfy their
thirst for glory or wealth." But this erudite author, like his Spaniards,
has missed, the main point. For they discovered the future granary of the
world; and the fact they were oblivious or disdainful of their main
discovery, pointed the moral of future Spanish history. The Spaniards took
nothing and they gave little -- two friars left as missionaries at Cibola
who soon wore the crown of martyrdom.
[image caption: JACOB V. BROWER Archaeologist and explorer -- rediscoverer
of Quivera and Harahey]
To Spain, from the first, nothing in her new-world conquests was gold that
did not glitter; and for this she disdained to dig -- it was easier and
more chivalrous to rob. She of course made pretense of having substituted
for this mere material good, the priceless but easy gift, religion. A
shrewder if not a juster race came after who were able to discern the true
and inexhaustible body of gold hidden in the dull-hued soil; and they
tilled and patiently waited nature's reward. And lo, to them is the
kingdom. And Spain has her due reward. Driven from all her vast outlying
domains by the relentless force of the modern industrial spirit, which she
could neither assimilate nor entertain, into a little corner of Europe,
there she lies, oblivious to progress, surviving chiefly as an echo, and
consequential merely as a, reminiscence of the dead past.
Expedition of the Mallet Brothers. The earliest authenticated
exploration by white men on Nebraska soil was that of two brothers, Pierre
and Paul Mallet, and six other Frenchmen in June, 1739. The Mallet
brothers had probably come up from New Orleans the year before, and had
wintered near the mouth of the Niobrara river. An account of their journey
from that neighborhood to Sante Fe forms a part of the Margry papers,
which consist of reports of early French explorers of the Trans-
Mississippi country to the French authorities at New Orleans and which
have been printed by Margry in Paris.
Lewis and Clark Expedition. In 1804, following the purchase of
Louisiana, the Lewis-Clark expedition was sent out by President Jefferson
for the purpose of gaining knowledge of the new and almost unknown
territory.
Following is a description of the company and outfit taken from the
journal of Lewis and Clark:
The party consisted of nine young men from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers
of the United States army, who volunteered their services, two French
watermen, an interpreter and hunter, and a black servant belonging to
Capt. Clark -- all of these, except the last, listed to serve as privates
during the expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by
the captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six
soldiers and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the
Mandan nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an
attack, which was most to be apprehended between Wood River and that
tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales and one box,
containing a small portion of each article in case of accident. They
consisted of a great variety of clothing, work utensils, locks, flints,
powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were added
fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same
manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of dress,
medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs -- ornaments of
different kinds, partic-
Page 41
ularly beads, looking glasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such
articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the Indians.
The party was to embark on board of three boats; the first was a keel
boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three feet of water, one large square
sail and twenty-two oars, a deck of ten feet in the bow and stern formed a
forecastle and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers, which might
be raised so as to form a breast work in case of attack. This was
accompanied by two perioques or open boats, one of six and the other of
seven oars. Two horses were at the same time to be led along the banks of
the river for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case of
scarcity. . . All
[image captions: Wm. Clark -- Meriwether Lewis]
the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday, May
14, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream which
empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance to the
Missouri.
The expedition, following up the Missouri river, came in sight of the
present Nebraska on the afternoon of July 11, 1804. It camped In the
Missouri side, immediately opposite the mouth of the Big Nemaha, and the
next day some members of the company explored the lower valley of that
river.
This expedition is of particular importance as it gives the first
historical glimpse of the eastern border of Nebraska. From the point where
it first touched the present state at the southeast corner to the point at
the northeast corner, where the Missouri river reaches its borders, the
distance is 277 miles as the bird flies. According to the government
survey, the distance between these two points is 441 miles, following the
meanderings of the river. The Lewis-Clark expedition recorded 556 miles of
river front for the state in 1804. On the 8th of September the explorers
left the present limits of Nebraska and continued their voyage up the
Missouri, then crossed the dividing mountain chains, and launched their
boats on the swift Columbia, following it to its mouth. Two years later
they returned over the same route and gave a graphic description of the
vast country they had traversed.
The explorers first camped on Nebraska soil July 15th, near the mouth
of the Little Nemaha. The camp of July 18th was not far from the present
site of Nebraska City. According to Floyd's journal, the camp of July 20th
was on the Nebraska side, and under a high bluff, three miles north of
Weeping Water creek. On the 21st of July the party passed the mouth of the
Platte river and encamped on the Nebraska side (probably not far from the
southeast corner of section 31, township 13, range 14 E). They passed on
up the river for a dis-
Page 42
tance of ten miles the next morning and then camped on the eastern shore.
Here they remained for five days. They explored the country in all
directions and sent for the surrounding Indians to meet them in a council
at a point farther up the river. While they were here dispatches and maps
were prepared to be sent to the president. July 27th they swam their
horses to the Nebraska side and continued the journey northward.
The camp of July 30th was at Council Bluff, This is the most important
camp-ground of the Lewis-Clark expedition within the state. Subsequently
(1819) it became the site of the first military post established in
Nebraska. There is no doubt that the recommendation of this site by the
captains, Lewis and Clark, determined the location of what was afterward
known as Camp Missouri, Fort Atkinson, and finally Fort Calhoun. The
importance of this camp warrants a quotation from that part of the journal
describing Council Bluff:
. . . The land here consists of a plain, above the high water level,
the soil of which is fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight
feet high, interspersed with copses of large plums and a currant like
those of the United States . . . Back of this plain is a woody ridge,
about seventy feet above it, at the end of which we formed our camp. This
ridge separates the lower from a higher prairie, of a good quality, with
grass, of ten or twelve inches in height and extending back about a mile
to another elevation of eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one
continued plain. Near our camp we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful
view of the river, and the adjoining country. At a distance varying from
four to ten miles, and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet,
two parallel ranges of high land afford a passage to the Missouri which
enriches the low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes
the willow islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn and ash,
and the groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut and oak.
The meridian altitude of this day (July 31) made the latitude of our camp
41o 18' 1.4" . . . We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger
to the Ottoes . . . Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the
arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who came
at sunset, on the 2nd of August, accompanied by a Frenchman who resided
among them and interpreted for us. Captain Lewis and Clark went out to
meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the morning . . .
[Here follows an account of the council in detail.] The incidents just
related, induced us to give this place the name of the Council-bluff; the
situation of it is exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory.
There were fourteen Indians present at this council, six of whom were
chiefs. They were all Otoes and Missouris who formed one tribal
organization at a later date, and presumably at that time.
After concluding the council they moved up the river five miles and
encamped August 3d. On the 4th of August they continued the voyage and
came to "a trading house on the south, (Nebraska side) where one of our
party passed two years trading with the Mahas." This too brief paragraph
is important in disclosing that there were white traders in Nebraska prior
to 1804. The camp of August 4th was also on Nebraska soil, but the exact
point is not determined.
The next sojourn in Nebraska was on the 11th of August, when they
paused to examine "Blackbird's grave." The description given is worthy of
repetition here:
We halted on the south side, for the purpose of examining a spot where
one of the great chiefs of the Mahas, named Blackbird who died about four
years ago of the small-pox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone
rises from the river in bluffs of various heights till it ends in a knoll
about three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound of
twelve feet diameter at the base, and six feet high, is raised over the
body of the deceased king, a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in the
center; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue and white.
August 13th they reached a spot on the Nebraska side where "a Mr.
Mackay" had a trading house in 1795 and 1796 which he called Fort Charles.
This same day men were sent out to the old Maha village with a flag and a
present, in order to induce them to come and hold a council with us. They
returned at twelve o'clock next day, August 14. After crossing a prairie
covered with high grass, they reached the Maha
Page 43
[image caption: LEWIS AND CLARK MONUMENTS Engravings from Photographs by
A. R. Sheldon. in upper right-hand corner appears the monument erected by
order of the legislature of Tennessee, over the grave of Captain Lewis,
Lewis county, Tennessee. Reproduced from The Trail of Lewis and Clark, by
courtesy of Olin D. Wheeler, editor. In the center and upper left hand
corner are three views of the monument of Captain Clark in Belle Fontaine
cemetery, St. Louis. The two lower cuts represent the bowlder at Fort
Calhoun, Nebraska, commemorating the first council with the Indians on
Nebraska soil.]
Page 44
creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join near the
village; they crossed the north branch and went along the south; the walk
was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their way through grass,
sunflowers, and thistles, all above ten feet high, and interspersed with
wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the position of the
ancient Maha village; it had once consisted of three hundred cabins, but
was burnt about four years ago, soon after the small-pox had destroyed
four hundred men, and a proportion of women and children. On a hill in the
rear of the village, are the graves of the nation; to the south of which
runs the fork of the Maha creek; this they crossed where it was about ten
yards wide, and followed its course to the Missouri, passing along a ridge
of hill for one and a half miles, and a long pond between that and the
Missouri; they then recrossed the Maha creek, and arrived at the camp,
having seen no tracks of Indians or any sign of recent cultivation.
Probably the first large Nebraska "fish story" originated on August
16th, when a seine was improvised with which over four hundred fish were
taken from the Omaha creek. August 13th they made a camp near the old
Omaha village and remained until August 20th. At this point another
council was held with the Otoes and Missouris, who were then at war with
the Omahas and very much afraid of a war with the Pawnees. After
concluding this council they continued their journey, and the next day
(August 20th) Sergeant Floyd, died and was buried on the Iowa side near
the Floyd river.
On August 21st the camp was made on the Nebraska side; also on the 23d.
On the 24th of August they came to the Nebraska volcano, a bluff of blue
clay where they say the soil was so warm they could not keep their hands
in it. These volcanic phenomena were probably due to the action of water,
at times of inundation, on iron pyrite, setting free sulphuric acid, which
in turn attacked limestone, producing heat and steam. Similar phenomena
have been observed in the same locality in very recent years. This night
camp was made in Nebraska, and mosquitoes were numerous. On August 25th
camp was made very near the Cedar-Dixon county line. August 28th a camp
was made in Nebraska, a little way below where Yankton now stands. The
Yankton Sioux had been called here for a council, and on August 31st the
council was concluded. While the expedition was in camp here a number of
Sioux chiefs arranged to accompany Mr. Durion to Washington.
On the 1st of September they again set sail; on the 2d they stopped to
examine an ancient fortification which must have been on section 3, 10, or
11, in the bend of the river and quite near the bank. September 3d they
camped again on Nebraska soil, and the next day they reached a point just
north of the Niobrara river. September 7th the last camp in Nebraska was
pitched six miles south of the north line.
On the return trip down the Missouri river the expedition reached the
northeastern corner of the present Nebraska on Sunday, August 31, 1806,
and left the southeast corner on the 11th of September, having made the
uneventful journey in twelve days. The up-stream passage of this part of
the route had required fifty-seven days.
Pike's Explorations. On the 15th of July, 1806, Lieutenant Zebulon M.
Pike's party consisting of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two
corporals, sixteen privates, and an interpreter, sailed from Belle
Fontaine, four miles above the mouth of the Missouri river on the famous
expedition which resulted in the discovery of Pike's Peak. The object of
the expedition, which was sent out by General James Wilkinson, then
commander-in-chief of the army of the United States, and also governor of
the territory of Louisiana, was ostensibly, and in fact partially, to
establish friendly relations with the Indians of the interior, but it is
supposed also to gain information about the Spaniards, who, since our
acquisition of Louisiana, out of which they felt they had been cheated by
Napoleon, had been in a menacing attitude towards the Americas.
The route of Pike's expedition was up the Missouri river to the mouth
of the Osage river, then up this stream to the Osage village at a point
near its source. Here the party abandoned their bateau and took a
northwesterly course across the country, reaching the
Page 45
[image caption: From photograph, copyrighted by P. C. Waltermire, Sioux
City. FLOYD MONUMENT NEAR SIOUX CITY, IOWA, SHOWING BRONZE TABLETS
ATTACHED TO THE EAST AND WEST FACES OF THE SHAFT. Sergeant Charles Floyd,
the first soldier of the United States to die west of the Mississippi
river, was a son of Chas. Floyd, Sr., a grandson of Wm. Floyd, and was
born in Jefferson county, Kentucky, between 1780 and 1785. He was one of
the "nine young men from Kentucky" who joined Lewis and Clark at
Louisville in the fall of 1803, was formally enlisted April 1, 1804, and
appointed one of the three sergeants of the expedition. Sergeant Floyd was
taken ill August 19, 1804, died the following day, and was buried on
"Floyd's Bluff," on the Iowa side of the Missouri river near the place of
his death. His grave was marked by a cedar post properly inscribed. In
1857, when Floyd's grave was endangered by the river, his remains were
removed 600 feet farther east. In 1895 the Floyd Memorial association was
organized, and a monument erected at a cost of about $15,000, which was
dedicated May 30, 1901. The shaft occupies a commanding position, three
miles southeast of Sioux City, on the top of Floyd's Bluff -- the highest
of the range of hills -- about 600 feet from the Missouri river, and 115
feet above low-water mark. The monument is of the style of an Egyptian
obelisk; the underground foundation is a monolith of concrete 22 feet
square at the base, 13 feet 6 inches at the top, and 11 feet deep. This is
surmounted by a base course of solid stone 2 feet high, and 10.92 feet
square. The shaft is 100 feet 2 1/2 inches in height 9.42 feet square at
the bottom, and 6.28 feet square at the top. It is a masonry shell of
Kettle river sandstone, the core of solid concrete.]
Page 46
Republican river at a point which has not been determined even
approximately; and that interesting question is now the subject of
investigation by specialists. The party camped on an eminence on the north
side of the river, opposite the Pawnee village, and circumstances favor
the conclusion that they were within the present bounds of Nebraska,
notwithstanding that in 1901, a monument to mark the northern limit of
Pike's route, was erected within the Kansas line about four miles south of
Hardy, Nebraska. Pike's visit to the Republican Pawnees had been preceded
a short time before by the expedition of the Spanish Lieutenant Maygares,
who had traveled from Santa Fe with about six hundred soldiers and over
two thousand horses and mules; but Pike says that about two hundred and
forty men and the horses that were unfit for service were left at the
crossing of the Arkansas river. The beaten down grass plainly disclosed to
Pike their line of march in the Pawnee neighborhood. This Spanish
expedition had been sent to intercept Pike and also to establish friendly
relations with the Indians, and the American party found a Spanish flag
flying over the council lodge of the Pawnees. These incidents, together
with the fact that Pike was detained in New Mexico, virtually a prisoner,
illustrates the indefiniteness of the boundary of the Louisiana Purchase
at the time and the insolence of Spain, not yet conscious of her decaying
condition, toward the young republic. The contrast between Pike's little
party and the considerable Spanish army which had just passed, inspired
insolent behavior on the part of the Pawnees, which led the intrepid
American explorer to give vent to his feelings in his journal: "All the
evil I wished the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument in the hands
of our government to open their eyes and ears, and with a strong hand
convince them of our power." It would no doubt have given the indomitable
but persecuted Pike much satisfaction to know that within a very few years
the insolent Spaniard, then invading American territory, would be pushed
off the continent finally by American aggression. Pike himself was killed
in battle in our war of 1812, but his services had been recognized and
rewarded by promotion in 1795.
Explorations of Crooks and McLellan. In 1807 Ramsey Crooks and Robert
McLellan, two of the most famous and intrepid explorers of the Northwest,
formed a partnership, and in the fall of the year started up the Missouri
river with an expedition comprising eighty men fitted out on shares by
Sylvester and Auguste Chouteau. On the return of Lewis and Clark in 1806,
they brought with them to St. Louis, Shahaka, the chief of the Mandans, on
the way to Washington for consultation with President Jefferson and under
promise of safe escort back to his home. The next summer Ensign Nathaniel
Pryor, who had been a sergeant in the Lewis and Clark party, undertook to
escort the chief up the river. The command consisted of fourteen soldiers
in all, but it was united with a party of thirty-two men led by Pierre
Chouteau. When they attempted pass the lower Arikara village, the Indians
attacked them and drove them back, and on their return they met Crooks and
McLellan, who then turned back and established a camp probably near
Bellevue, where they remained until the spring of 1810. Lisa had safely
passed the Arikaras before these parties arrived, and whether true or not,
the charge that he inspired the Arikara attack is a concession to his
ability and influence as well as an illustration of his reputation for
intrigue.
Astorian Expedition. Commerce led to the first exploration and
civilized occupation in the Northwest, including Nebraska. The French had
led in exploration and fur trade until the British wrested Canada from
them in 1762, and Frenchmen continued to carry active commercial traffic
in this region, St. Louis, then a French town, as their principal base.
But about the beginning of the nineteenth century there was a state of
actual hostility between English and American traders. The discovery of
the mouth of the Columbia river in 1792 by Captain Gray of the American
trading ship Columbia, was an important factor in the long dispute over
the Oregon boundary. In 1810, John Jacob Astor, of New York, organized the
Pacific Fur Compa-
Page 47
ny, a partnership including himself, Alexander McKay, Duncan McDougal,
Donald McKenzie, David Stuart, Robert Stuart, and Wilson Price Hunt, for
the purpose of colonization and trade at the mouth of the Columbia river.
Astor was encouraged in his enterprise by the federal government. The
partners named with the exception of Hunt, sailed in the ship Tonquin in
September, 1810, and founded Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia river
in the spring of the following year. In October of 1810 Mr. Hunt started
up the Missouri river with a party in three boats to reach Astoria by the
overland route. The expedition came to the mouth of the Nodaway river in
November, and went into winter quarters, though Hunt returned to St.
Louis, where he spent the winter. He reached the winter camp again on the
17th of the following April, and a few days later the party set sail. It
consisted of about sixty men, five of them partners in the enterprise, and
they embarked in four boats. On the 28th of April they breakfasted on an
island at the mouth of the Platte river, and they halted for two days on
the bank of the Missouri, a little above the mouth of Papillion creek, and
therefore on or near the site of Bellevue. In Irving's account of this
journey no mention is made of any settlement at this point; but he set the
example of writing enthusiastically of the beauty of the landscape, which
has been assiduously practiced by travelers and settlers over since. On
the 10th of May the party arrived at the Omaha Indian village, situated,
by their measurement, about two hundred and thirty miles above their
Bellevue encampment. On the 12th of June they arrived at the village of
the Arikara Indians, about ten miles above the mouth of the Grand river,
now in northern South Dakota. From this point they proceeded by land to
the Columbia river, which they reached some distance below the junction of
the Lewis and Clark river. They followed down the Columbia in canoes, and
reached Astoria on the 15th of February.
Lisa, who represented the Missouri Fur Company, jealously watched the
operations of the new Pacific Fur Company, and his successful attempt to
overtake Hunt resulted in a famous keel boat race. Lisa explains that this
desperate exertion was caused by a desire to pass through the dangerous
Sioux country in Hunt's company for greater safety; but it seems likely
that his primary object was to prevent Hunt from establishing advantageous
trade relations with any of the Indians on the upper river. Lisa traveled
with great rapidity, at an average rate of eighteen miles a day, and
overtook Hunt's party.
There were twenty-six men on Lisa's boat and it was armed with a swivel
mounted at the bow. Twenty men were at the oars.
[image caption: PIERRE CHOUTEAU, JR. A master mind in the early fur trade]
Brackenridge, who, according to Irving, was "a young, enterprising man,
tempted by motives of curiosity to accompany Mr. Lisa," gives an account
of the starting of the party:
We sat off from the village of St. Charles on Tuesday, the 28th of
April, 1811. Our barge was the best that ever ascended this river, and
manned with stout oarsmen. Mr. Lisa, who had been a sea captain, took much
pains in rigging his boat with a good mast and main top sail, these being
great helps in the navigation of this river . . . We are in all twenty-
five men, and completely pre-
Page 48
pared for defense. There is besides, a swivel on the bow of the boat,
which in case of attack would make a formidable appearance; we have also
two brass blunderbusses. . . These precautions are absolutely necessary
from the hostility of the Sioux bands . . . It is exceedingly difficult to
make a start on these voyages, from the reluctance of the men to terminate
the frolic with their friends which usually precedes their departure. . .
The river Platte is regarded by the navigators of the Missouri as a point
of as much importance as the equinoctial line amongst mariners. All those
who had not passed it before were required to be shaved unless they would
compromise the matter by a treat.
On the 28th of June, 1812, Robert Stuart started from Astoria with five
of Hunt's original party on a return overland trip. At Fort Henry on the
north fork of Snake river, now in southeastern Idaho, he was joined by
four of the five men who had been detached by Hunt on the 10th of the
previous October. After a journey of terrible hardships they established
winter quarters on the North Platte river not far east of the place where
it issues from the mountains. At the end of six weeks they were driven out
by the Indians and proceeded three hundred and thirty miles down the
Platte; and then, despairing of being able to pass safely over the desert
plain covered with deep snow, which confronted them, they went back over
seventy-seven miles of their course until they found a suitable winter
camp in what is now Scotts Bluff county, where they went into winter
quarters on the 30th of December, 1812. On the 8th of March they tried to
navigate the stream in canoes, but found it impracticable, and proceeded
on foot to a point about forty-five miles from the mouth of the Platte,
where they embarked, April 16th, in a large canoe made for their purpose
by the Indians.
The Yellowstone Expedition. Such importance in Nebraska annals as may
be attributed to what is known as Long's expedition in 1819 is due to the
fact that it was the occasion of the passage of the first steamboat up the
Missouri river, and the establishment of the first military post within
the limits of the territory. This post, at first called Camp Missouri, was
developed into a fort of the regular quadrangular form and named Fort
Atkinson after its founder, General Atkinson, the commander of the
Yellowstone expedition. It was occupied until 1827 in the main by the
Sixth regiment of infantry, and was abandoned, June 27, 1827, when Fort
Leavenworth was established and to which the furnishings of Fort Atkinson
were transferred. A reason assigned for the abandonment of Fort Atkinson,
namely, that the site was unhealthy, does not seem plausible. A better,
and probably the real reason is that, owing to the insignificance or
failure of the up-river fur trading enterprise, this fort was nowhere and
protected nothing, while the new site chosen by Colonel Leavenworth was
virtually at the beginning of the Sante Fe and Oregon trails, where
traffic was of considerable and growing importance. The failure of Astor's
attempt to effect stable American lodgment on the Columbia, of the
Missouri Fur Company and other private enterprises to overcome or
successfully compete with British influence and trade aggression in this
new, northwest, stimulated the federal government to send out what was
intended to be a formidable military and scientific expedition for the
purpose of establishing a strong post at the mouth of the Yellowstone
river, to ascertain the natural features and resources of the country,
and, if practicable, the important line between United States and the
British possessions. There were dreams, if not practical intentions, of
establishing a trade with the Orient by way of the Columbia river, across
the mountains to the Missouri, and down that stream to Mississippi, but
which were to be realize through the steam railroad across Nebraska
instead of the steamboat up the Missouri. Five steamboats were provided
for the transportation of the military arm of the expedition, comprising
about a thousand men under command of Colonel Henry Atkinson. management
and miscalculation chiefly distinguished this pretentious enterprise from
first to last. The waste of time and money -- except as the latter
provided a substantial lining
Page 49
for the pocket of the contractor -- in attempting to navigate the Missouri
with vessels not specially adapted to its very peculiar demands, the lack
of proper provisions for the, troops at their winter quarters at Council
Bluffs, resulting in appalling sickness and death, the entire abandonment
of the original and important design of the enterprise -- to obtain a sure
footing or control in the upper Missouri -- and the failure of Major Long
to reach the Red river at all seem to justify the criticism which the
expedition has received. Two of the five boats were not able to enter the
Missouri at all; and "the Jefferson gave out and abandoned the trip thirty
miles below Franklin. The Expedition and the Johnson wintered at Cow
Island, a little above the mouth of the Kansas, and returned to St. Louis
in the following spring."(9) The troops did not reach Council Bluff, where
they established Camp Missouri, till the 26th of September, 1819. Their
condition in the spring, March 8th, is shown in the journal of Long's
expedition:
Camp Missouri has been sickly, from the commencement of the winter; but
its situation is at this time truly deplorable. More than three hundred
are, or have been sick, and nearly one hundred have died. This fatality is
occasioned by the scurvy (scorbutus). Individuals who are seized rarely
recover, as they can not be furnished with the proper aliments; they have
no vegetables, fresh meat, nor antiscorbutics, so that the patients grow
daily worse, and entering the hospital is considered by them a certain
passport to the grave.(10)
The scientific and exploring division of the party, under Major Long,
left St. Louis on the 9th of June, 1819, on the steamboat Western
Engineer, which is said to have been the first stern-wheel steamboat ever
built. This vessel appears to have been well adapted to its purpose and,
proceeding by easy stages, reached the mouth of the Platte river on the
15th of September, Fort Lisa on the 17th, and on the 19th anchored at the
winter camp, half a mile above Fort Lisa and five miles below Council
Bluff, and which they called Engineer Cantonment. According to one writer,
the vessels which attempted to transfer Atkinson's soldiers in the early
winter of 1818 were the first steamboats to enter the Missouri river; but
the statement that two of them went as far as Cow Island, above the mouth
of the Kansas, is contrary to an account of the arrival of the
Independence at Franklin, contained in the Franklin Intelligencer of May
28, 1819:
With no ordinary sensation of pride and pleasure we announce the
arrival this morning of the elegant steamboat, Independence, Capt. Nelson,
in seven sailing days (but thirteen from the time of her departure) from
St. Louis with passengers and a cargo of flour, whiskey,
[image caption: BENJAMIN LOUIS EULALIA BONNEVILLE]
iron castings, etc., being the first steamboat that ever attempted
ascending the Missouri, The grand desideratum, the important fact is now
acknowledged that steamboats can successfully navigate the Missouri.
Major Long started to Washington after a sojourn of two weeks at
Engineer Cantonment and returned in the spring by land from St. Louis. On
account of mismanagement of the expedition and the scandals arising from
it the necessary appropriations were stopped and Major Long was authorized
to lead an exploring party "to the source of the river Platte and thence
by way of the Arkanasas and Red rivers to the Mississippi." The party
consisted of S. H. Long, major United States topographical engineers, six
regular soldiers, and eleven oth-
(9. History of American Fur Trade, vol. ii, p. 569.)
(10. Long's First Expedition, vol. i, p. 195.)
Page 50
er men, most of them such specialists as were needed in a scientific
exploration. They started from Engineer Cantonment on the 6th of June,
following the Pawnee path southwesterly to the Platte valley, then,
proceeding along the north side of the river, crossed the forks a short
distance above their junction, and followed the south bank of the South
Platte. By the end of June they came in sight of the mountains and
discovered the great peak which they named after Major Long.
In May, 1832, Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth, with a party of eighteen,
intent on Astor's original plan of establishing trade on the Columbia
river, passed through Nebraska on the Oregon trail. He traveled in company
with William L. Sublette's expedition to the mountains. On his return by
way of the Missouri river he passed Council Bluff on the 21st of
September, 1833. In 1834, Wyeth, with a party of seventy men, traveled
over the same route again from Independence to the Columbia.
Captain Bonneville was a diligent wanderer rather than an explorer, and
he owes his fame largely to the fact that the fascinating Irving was his
historian. He took a party of about one hundred men over the Oregon trail
in the spring of 1832, and traveled over the whole northwest mountain
region, including the Columbia river country, until the spring of 1835. In
the year last named Colonel Henry Dodge, who afterwards became the first
governor of Wisconsin, and after whom Nebraska's brilliant son, Henry
Dodge Estabrook, was named, led an expedition from Fort Leavenworth up the
Platte and along its south fork to the mountains, thence south to the
Sante Fe trail, returning by that route.
Fremont's Expedition. The federal government had indirectly encouraged
the expeditions set on foot by Astor and others and had directly sent the
Long expedition, but the most important explorations of the Northwest,
under the auspices of the government, were those of Fremont. The first
party passed through Nebraska by the Oregon trail in the summer of 1842.
This expedition, composed of twenty-seven men, mostly Creole Canadian
frontiersmen, included the famous Kit Carson as its guide and a son of
Thomas H. Benton, a boy of twelve years, whose sister Lieutenant Fremont,
the leader of the expedition, had recently married. This expedition
started from Cyprian Chouteau's trading post on the Missouri river, a
little over twelve miles above the mouth of the Kansas, on the 10th of
June, 1842. Fremont's orders were, "to explore and report upon the country
between the frontiers of Missouri and the south pass in the Rocky
mountains and on the line of the Kansas and Great Platte rivers." This was
accomplished by the middle of August, and the party returned by the same
route, reaching the junction of the north and south forks on the 12th of
September. Here Fremont also was tempted to undertake the navigation of
the river. His own account of the remainder of the journey through
Nebraska is a pertinent and interesting story:
At this place I had determined to make another attempt to descend the
Platte by water, and accordingly spent two days in the construction of a
bull boat. Men were sent out on the evening of our arrival, the necessary
number of bulls killed, and their skins brought to camp. Four of the best
of them were strongly sewed together with buffalo sinew, and stretched
over a basket frame of willow. The seams were then covered with ashes and
tallow and the boat left exposed to the sun the greater part of one day,
which was sufficient to dry and contract the skin and make the whole work
solid and strong. It had a rounded bow, was eight feet long and five
broad, and drew with four men about four inches of water. On the morning
of the 15th we embarked in our hide boat, Mr. Preuss and myself with two
men. We dragged her over the sands for three or four miles, and then left
her on the bar, and abandoned entirely all further attempts to navigate
this river. The names given by the Indians are always remarkably
appropriate; and certainly none was ever more so than that which they had
given to this stream -- "the Nebraska, or Shallow River." Walking steadily
the remainder of the day, a little before dark we overtook our people at
their evening camp, about twenty-one miles below the junction. The next
morning we crossed the Platte, and continued our way down the river bottom
on the left bank, where we found an excellent plainly beaten road.
On the 18th we reached Grand Island, which
Page 51
is fifty-two miles long, with an average breadth of one mile and three
quarters. It has on it some small eminences and is sufficiently elevated
to be secure from the annual floods of the river. As has already been
remarked, it is well timbered, with an excellent soil, and recommends
itself to notice as the best point for a military position on the Lower
Platte.
On the 22nd we arrived at the village of the Grand Pawnees, on the
right bank of the river, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Loup
fork. They were gathering in their corn, and we obtained from them a very
welcome supply of vegetables.
The morning of the 24th we reached the Loup fork of the Platte. At the
place where we forded it, this stream was four hundred and thirty yards
broad, with a swift current of clear water; in this respect differing from
the Platte, which has a muddy yellow color, derived from the limestone and
marl formation of which we have previously spoken. The ford was difficult,
as the water was so deep that it came into the body of the carts, and we
reached the opposite bank after repeated attempts, ascending and
descending the bed of the river in order to avail ourselves of the bars.
We camped on the left bank of the fork, in the point of land at its
junction with the Platte. During the two days that we remained here for
astronomical observations, the bad weather permitted us to obtain but one
good observation for the latitude -- a meridian altitude of the sun, which
gave for the latitude of the mouth of the Loup fork 41o 22' 11'.
Five or six days previously, I had sent forward C. Lambert, with two
men, to Bellevue, with directions to ask from Mr. P. Sarpy, the gentleman
in charge of the American Company's establishment at that place, the aid
of his carpenters in constructing a boat, in which I proposed to descend
the Missouri. On the afternoon of the 27th we met one of the men who had
been dispatched by Mr. Sarpy with a welcome supply of provisions and a
very kind note which gave the very gratifying intelligence that our boat
was in rapid progress, On the evening of the 30th we encamped in an almost
impenetrable undergrowth on the left bank of the Platte, in the point of
land at its confluence with the Missouri -- three hundred and fifty miles,
according to our reckoning, from the junction of the forks, and five
hundred and twenty miles from Fort Laramie.
From the junction we had found the bed of the Platte occupied with
numerous islands, many of them very large, and well timbered; possessing,
as well as the bottom lands of the river, a very excellent soil. With the
exception of some scattered groves on the banks, the bottoms are
generallly without timber. A portion of these consist of low grounds,
covered with a profusion of fine grasses, and are probably inundated in
the spring; the remaining part is high river prairie, entirely beyond the
influence of the floods. The breadth of the river is usually three
quarters of a mile, except where it is enlarged by islands. That portion
of its course which is occupied by Grand Island has an average breadth
from shore to shore of two and a half miles. The breadth
[image caption: JOHN C. FREMONT]
of the valley, with the various accidents of ground -- springs, timber,
and whatever I have thought interesting to travelers and settlers -- you
will find indicated on the larger map which accompanies this report.
October 1. -- I arose this morning long before daylight, and heard with
a feeling of pleasure the tinkling of cow bells at the settlements on the
opposite side of the Missouri. Early in the day we reached Mr. Sarpy's
residence, and in the security and comfort of his hospitable mansion felt
the pleasure of again being within the pale of civilization. We
Page 52
found our boat on the stocks; a few days sufficed to complete her; and in
the afternoon of the 4th we embarked on the Missouri. All our equipage --
horses, carts, and the materiel of the camp -- had been sold at public
auction at Bellevue. The strength of my party enabled me to man the boat
with ten oars, relieved every hour; and we descended rapidly.
On his second expedition the following year, Fremont passed up the
Kansas river to the mouth of the Republican. He then proceeded
northwestwardly, leaving the Republican valley on his right or to the
north. Soon after crossing and naming the Prairie Dog river he again
entered the Republican valley. He crossed the present Nebraska line not
far from the western boundary of Hitchcock county, and, crossing Dundy
county diagonally to the northwest, entered the valley of the South
Platte, which he followed to the mountains. Fremont complains on this trip
of the difficulty of traveling on account of heavy rains, which is another
indication of the fallacy of the popular notion that rainfall has
increased in this portion of the plains since its occupation and
cultivation by white men.
John C. Fremont. John C. Fremont was born January 21, 1813, in
Savannah, Georgia, and died July 13, 1890. He was the son of a French
immigrant who married into one of the most prominent families of Virginia.
John C. Fremont distinguished himself as statesman, soldier, and explorer.
After completing his work in Charleston College, he taught mathematics for
a time, and later became a civil engineer. He married the daughter of
Colonel Thomas H. Benton. Fremont gained the recognition of the United
States government, which supported his ambitions in explorations extending
across the continent to the Pacific coast. As a recognition of his
services he was rewarded with a brevet captaincy. In California, he
protected the settlers from the Mexicans, and in 1846 was appointed
governor of California. He received the commission of lieutenant-colonel.
Fremont organized an expedition to find a southern route to California
and, while the attempt was somewhat disastrous, he succeeded in reaching
California by that route in 1849. He was elected United States senator
from that state and took his seat when the state was admitted in 1850. His
term expired in 1851, and the following year was spent in Europe. In 1856
he was the republican nominee for president of the United States, but was
defeated by James Buchanan, the democratic nominee. Fremont was appointed
major-general in the Federal army, and later was made commander of the
mountain district of Virginia and Kentucky. He resigned when Major General
Pope was assigned to the command of the Army of Virginia. The failure of
his project to build the El Paso and Pacific railroad reduced him to
poverty. He was appointed governor of Arizona territory and served four
years.
[image caption: Manuel de Lisa.]
Manuel de Lisa. It is probable that there was a trading post called
Fort Charles, about six miles below Omadi, kept by one McKay as early as
1795. In 1802, Cruzatte's post,
Page 53
also a trading establishment, was situated two miles above old Council
Bluff. In 1807, Crooks and McLellan established a post not far above the
mouth of the Papillion; but they abandoned it in 1810 when they formed the
Pacific Fur Company. This was probably the first settlement on the site,
or in the immediate neighborhood, of Bellevue. The tradition that Manuel
Lisa made a settlement at Bellevue in 1805 is probably groundless. He
established his post, known as Fort Lisa, at a point between five and six
miles below the original Council Bluff -- where Lewis and Clark had a
council with the Missouri and Otoe Indians, August 3, 1804, and now the
site of the town of Fort Calhoun -- as early as 1812. Manuel Lisa was
doubtless the most remarkable man among the early explorers and traders of
the Missouri river. "In boldness of enterprise, persistency of purpose and
in restless energy, he was a fair representative of the Spaniard of the
days of Cortez. He was a man of great ability, a masterly judge of men,
thoroughly experienced in the Indian trade and native customs, intensely
active in his work, yet withal a perfect enigma of character which his
contemporaries were never able to solve."(11) He was selected to command
in the field, nearly every expedition sent out by the St. Louis companies
of which he was a member. Lisa was born of Spanish parents, in Cuba, in
1772. The return of Lewis and Clark excited his ambition to establish
trade on the upper Missouri, and in 1807 he led an expedition as far as
the Bighorn where he established a post called Fort Lisa. The Missouri Fur
Company of St. Louis, in which he was a partner, was organized in 1808-
1809. In the spring of 1809 he went up to the Bighorn post with a party of
one hundred and fifty men, but returned to St. Louis for the winter. Every
year, from 1807 to 1819, inclusive, possibly with one exception, he made
the upper Missouri trip -- twice to the Bighorn, a distance of two
thousand miles, several times to Fort Mandan, fifteen hundred miles, the
rest of the journeys being to Fort Lisa at Council Bluff, six hundred and
seventy miles. After the establishment of this post he spent most,
probably all of the winters there, returning to St. Louis in the spring
each year. His last sojourn in his Nebraska home was in 1819, and this
time his wife, whom he had recently married in St. Louis, was with him. He
had kept at least one woman of the Omahas as wife or mistress, and there
is a tragic story of his final separation from her before his last trip
back to St. Louis, and of her giving up their two children to him because
she thought it would be best for them. As is often the case
[image caption: MARY MANUEL LISA First white woman to live in Nebraska]
with original and adventurous spirits, in a commercial sense Lisa sowed
that others might reap, and he died at St. Louis, in August, 1820, leaving
little of the material gain for which he had striven with wonderful energy
and at such great risks. While McKay and Cruzatte, and perhaps others of
the white race may have had lodgment in Nebraska before Lisa, yet it seems
fair to call him the first real white settler. Thomas Biddle, the
journalist of the Yellowstone expedition, in a report to Atkinson,
commandant at Camp Missouri, dated October 29, 1819, says that Lisa's
party went
(11. Chittenden, History of American Fur Trade, p. 113.)
Page 54
to the mouth of the Bighorn in 1809 and that they wintered there that
year, and on the waters of the Columbia in 1810-1811; but Lisa, himself,
returned to St. Louis in the fall of 1809. By Biddle's showing the
Missouri river fur trade was on the whole unprofitable, and the various
companies or partnerships were short-lived, and according to his
statement, the Missouri Fur Company expired in 1814 or 1815; by other
accounts it dissolved between 1828-1830, Joshua Pilcher remaining its
president after Lisa's death. Biddle tells us also
[image caption: Engraving from a photograph owned by John Q. Goss,
Bellevue, Nebraska. LOGAN FONTENELLE (SHON-GA-SKA) Elected principal chief
of the Omahas, September, 1853]
that after the dissolution of the Missouri company, Lisa, Pilcher, and
others bought a new company for $10,000, and they added goods to the
amount of $7,000. As Lisa died in 1820, he could not have joined Pilcher
in his last enterprise after the expiration of the Missouri company, if it
had lived until 1828 or 1830. The confusion must be accounted for by the
fact that another company of the same name was organized after the
dissolution of the first, and it is to that doubtless that some writers
refer. Long notes that Major Pilcher and Lucien Fontenelle were in the
employ of the Missouri Fur Company at the beginning of the year 1820. Not
long after Lisa's death, the company, now in charge of Pilcher, moved its
post from Fort Lisa down to the site of Bellevue. Chittenden states that
Lucien Fontenelle and Andrew Drips bought the post soon after this time
and retained it many years, though in another place this author says that
they built a post at Bellevue. It is probable that this Fontenelle was
connected with one of the numerous French royal families, and it is stated
that he committed suicide at Fort Laramie; but reliable local accounts say
that he left his mountain trading post in 1839 and came to Bellevue where
he lived with his family until he died, from intemperate habits, in 1840.
He married a woman of the Omaha tribe and they had five children.
Logan Fontenelle. Logan Fontenelle became a chief of the Omahas and a
man of much note among the Indians and the earliest white settlers. Henry
Fontenelle, a brother of this Omaha chief, has given the following account
of his death:
In June, 1855, Logan went with the tribe as usual on their summer
buffalo hunt, and as usual their enemies, the Sioux, laid in wait for the
Omahas in vicinities of large herds of buffalo, The first surround they
made on the buffalo the Sioux made a descent upon them in overwhelming
numbers and turned the chase into battle. Four Omahas were killed and
several wounded. In every attempt at getting buffalo the Sioux charged
upon them. The Omahas concluded it was useless to try to get any buffalo,
and retreated toward home. They traveled three days, and, thinking they
were out of danger, Logan, one morning, in company with Louis Saunsoci and
another Indian, started on ahead of the moving village and were about
three miles away when they espied a herd of elk in the distance. Logan
proposed chase, they started, that was the last seen of him alive. The
same moment the village was surrounded by the Sioux. About ten o'clock in
the morning a battle ensued and lasted until three o'clock, when they
found out Logan was killed. His body was found and brought into Bellevue
and buried by the side of his father. He had the advantage of a limited
education and saw the advantage of
Page 55
it. He made it a study to promote the welfare of his people and to bring
them out of their wretchedness, poverty and ignorance. His first step to
that end was to organize a parole of picked men and punish all that came
home intoxicated with bad whiskey. His effort to stop whiskey drinking was
successful. It was his intention as soon as the Omahas were settled in
their new home to ask the government to establish ample schools among
them, to educate the children of the tribe by force if they would not send
the children by reasonable persuasion. His calculations for the benefit of
the tribe were many, but, like many other human calculations, his life
suddenly ended in the prime, and just as he was ready to benefit his
people and sacrifice a life's labor for helpless humanity. After Logan was
killed the Omahas went back to Bellevue instead of coming back to the
reservation whence they started, and wintered along the Missouri river
between Calhoun and the reservation, some of them at Bellevue. In the
spring of 1856 they again went back to their reservation, where they have
been since.
Between the years 1822 and 1826, J. P. Cabanne established a post for
the American Fur Company at a point nine or ten miles above the later site
of the Union Pacific bridge at Omaha. It is probable that Joshua Pilcher
succeeded Cabanne in the management of the post in 1833, and between that
year and 1840 it was moved down to Bellevue and placed under the
management of Peter A. Sarpy. Pilcher succeeded General Clark, of the
Lewis and Clark expedition, as superintendent of Indian affairs at St.
Louis in 1838. The Rev. Samuel Allis, a missionary to the Pawnee Indians
and who was frequently at Bellevue as early as 1834 and thereafter, states
that in the year named, his party camped at the fur company's fort and
that Major Pilcher was in charge of the post; also that soon after Peter
A. Sarpy came into that part of the country he was clerk for Cabanne.
Chittenden says that "Fontenelle and Drips apparently bought Pilcher's
Post and established it in their own name which it retained for many
years." Thus both the Missouri Fur Company's post and the American Fur
Company's post appear to have been transferred to Bellevue, the one from
Fort Lisa and the other from Cabanne's, The Rev. Moses Merrill, a Baptist
missionary to the Otoe Indians, who came to Bellevue on his mission in the
fall of 1833, speaks in his diary of visiting Cabanne's post as late as
April 1, 1839, so that it could not have been removed to Bellevue before
that time; and Mr. Merrill, whose diary comes down to August 18, 1839,
makes no mention of the removal. In this diary Mr. Merrill frequently
speaks of riding from Bellevue to "the trading post," eighteen miles,
which was in charge of Major Pilcher, and evidently the old Cabanne post.
On the 7th of March, 1834, Merrill makes the following entry in his diary:
"Sublette and Campbell have established a trading post here in opposition
to the American Company." On the 10th of May, 1834, he records that he set
out from the trading post eighteen miles above Bellevue, which must have
been Cabanne's, to the Otoe village which he says was twenty-five miles
distant. After Mr. Merrill had established himself at the Otoe mission
house on the south side of the Platte, he records, May 30, 1836, that he
rode to Cabanne's post, thirty miles. Mr. Merrill repeatedly states that
he and the women who assisted him in his mission work, went backwards and
forwards daily between the mission house and the Otoe village, so that
they could have been only a short distance apart. The permanent Otoe
villages were on the west side of the Platte river forty miles from its
mouth, not far from the present village of Yutan. The Merrill mission
establishment was about eight miles above the month of the Platte where a
chimney still marks its site. Merrill's diary tells us in a vague way that
the Otoe villages were moved down the Platte from the site in question
during the summer of 1835. Merrill gives the distance from the trading
post to the villages and to the mission as the same, showing that they
were very near together; and his diary gives other ample evidence of that
fact. Allis says that Merrill's establishment was on the Platte, six miles
from Bellevue.
In a paper by the Rev. S. P. Merrill, the missionary's son, the
following statement is made: "A few miles from Bellevue, just below
Boyer's creek, was the trading post of Cabanne. This post was sold about
this time to a fur
Page 56
[image captions: MONUMENT OF JOHN B. SARPY, CALVARY CEMETERY, ST. LOUIS.
MONUMENT OF MANUEL DR. LISA, BELLEFONTAINE CEMETERY, ST. LOUIS. MONUMENT
OF PETER A. SARPY, CALVARY CEMETERY, ST. LOUIS. Photographs by A. E.
Sheldon]
Page 57
company, and in 1834 was occupied by Major Pilcher." This agrees with
another statement that Pilcher succeeded Cabanne as manager of the post in
1833. Mr. Merrill states that at Bellevue was a government agency for the
Otoes, Pawnees, Omahas, and Missouris. "Bellevue," he says. "was at first
a trading post of the Missouri Fur Company. They had sold out to
Fontenelle, and he had disposed of a part of his holdings to the
government. Here Major John Dougherty was government agent and Major
Beauchamp was assistant. There were here now but few men. During the
summer before, the cholera had carried off seven out of ten in twenty-four
hours. On the bank of the river were the poorer huts, while higher up were
the agency buildings. A quarter of a mile below were the buildings of
Fontenelle. Mr. Merrill says that under Major Dougherty were "his brother,
Hannibal, assistant, a teacher, an assistant teacher, two blacksmiths to
care for the farming tools, and one or two farmers to teach the Indians
how to make their crops." The missionary, the Rev. Moses Merrill,
unfortunately for the cause of accurate history, was an almost morbid
religious devotee, and his diary is so largely given up to recording his
devotions and varying religious moods as to leave too little room for
intelligible historical data.
Peter A. Sarpy. P. A. Sarpy, born 1804, was a son of Gregoire Berald
and Pelagie (Labadie) Sarpy. His father is said to have been the first man
to attempt the navigation of the Missouri river in a keel boat. But little
is known of his early life except that he was of French extraction and was
educated in St. Louis where his relatives, the Chouteaus and others,
occupied high social position. His elder brother, John B. Sarpy, was an
important factor in the fur trade and the general commercial life of St.
Louis. He was born in that city January 12, 1798, and was first employed
as a clerk for Berthold and Chouteau, with whom he was associated in
business for the balance of his life. His first wife was the eldest
daughter of John P. Cabanne. About 1823 Peter A. Sarpy came to Nebraska as
a clerk for the American Fur Company under John P. Cabanne, and in 1824
succeeded him as manager of the post at Bellevue. Shortly after, he
established a post on the Iowa side of the Missouri river which he called
Traders Point; this was used for the accommodation of the whites, while
Bellevue catered chiefly to the Indian trade. On account of the
encroachments of the river, Traders Point was abandoned in 1853 and a new
location established at St. Mary, four miles down the river. In 1853
Colonel Sarpy established flat-boat ferries across the Elkhorn river near
where Elkhorn
[image caption: From an old daguerreotype taken in 1855 at Council Bluffs,
Iowa, and given to the Nebraska State Historical Society by J. Sterling
Morton. PETER A. SARPY]
City was afterwards located, and on the Loup Fork near the present site of
Columbus. He was a man of peculiar temperament, kind at heart, but in the
pursuit of his business enterprises he spared no one. He was small and
wiry in build, possessing great physical endurance. He loved the freedom
of the West and was intimately associated with the Indians, being honored
with the title of "white chief" by the Omahas. He married, according to
Indian custom, Ni-co-mi, a woman of the Iowas, to, whom he was greatly
attached, and whom he as greatly feared. Ni-co-mi had been the wife of Dr.
John Gale, who had deserted her and their child. In 1854 Mr. Sarpy was a
member
Page 58
[image caption: EARLY MISSOURI RIVER STEAMBOATS. The lower view represents
a steamboat wreck on the Missouri river, copied from Early Steamboat
Navigation on the Missouri River, Chittenden. The others are from
photographs owned by the Nebraska State Historical Society.]
Page 59
of the Old Town company which laid out the town of Bellevue, and in
company with Stephen Decatur and others laid out the town of Decatur,
where he had maintained a trading post. In 1862, he moved to Plattsmouth,
where he died January 4, 1865. Sarpy county was named in his honor. The
St. Louis relatives of Colonel Sarpy deny that he left any considerable
estate. He provided, however, for the payment of an annuity of $200 to Ni-
co-mi, his Indian wife, which amount was paid regularly until her death.
EARLY TRADERS. A number of the hardy traders of the early days in the
Plains country deserve special attention and, briefly sketched, their
lives throw a ray of light into those early days and present an
understanding of the loneliness of the lives they led, as nothing else can.
Manuel de Lisa. Manuel de Lisa, Spanish fur trader of Nebraska, was
born in Cuba, September 8, 1772. He came to this country about the time
the Spanish took possession of Louisiana. His father was in the service of
the Spanish government during most of his life time. Manuel de Lisa went
to St. Louis about the year 1790, when he became interested in the fur
business. In 1800, he secured from the Spanish government the exclusive
right to trade with the Osage Indians. In 1807, he came up the Missouri
river and established a post and began the fur trade at the mouth of the
Bighorn and also at Fort Lisa, near the present site of Fort Calhoun. He
returned to St. Louis and organized the St. Louis Fur Company. Lisa, was
made subagent for all of the Indian tribes along the Missouri north of
Kansas. He was beyond question the most active and successful man who ever
entered the Indian country in the early days, and rendered great service
to the government. He was a prominent citizen of St. Louis and was one of
the incorporators of the Bank of St. Louis in 1813.
Manuel Lisa was married twice among his own people, and also had a wife
from the Omaha tribe. It is said this marriage was for the purpose of
ingratiating himself into the Indian favor and to hold a commericial
advantage over his rivals in the fur trade.
Two children were born of this union and were recognized in his will as
his "natural children." Lisa provided for the education of these children
before his death. Little is known of his first wife who favored him with
three children. The second wife of his own people was Mary Hampstead
Keeny, of St. Louis, whom he married August 5, 1818. Mrs. Lisa spent the
winter of 1819-1820 with her husband at his post in Nebraska and was
probably the first white woman to ascend the Missouri river.
Major Joshua Pilcher. Major Joshua Pilcher, pioneer Indian trader, was
born in Virginia, March 15, 1790. He entered business pursuits in St.
Louis in 1812, and in 1820 entered the fur trade as a member of the
reorganized Missouri Fur Company, of which he became president in 1821,
upon the death of Manuel Lisa. He remained at the head of this company
until its dissolution about 1830. For a time he transferred his services
to the American Fur Company and had charge of their post at Council Bluff.
In 1838, he was appointed by President Van Buren as superintendent of
Indian affairs at St. Louis, which was made vacant by the death of General
William Clark, the associate of Meriwether Lewis. As did a large number of
these early pioneers, he married