Discovery of the Yosemite - Chapters XIII-XV



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CHAPTER XIII.
The Indian Names--Difficulty of their Interpretation--Circumstances 
Suggesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls--Mr. Richardson's 
Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow--Py-we-ack Misplaced, and 
"Illiluette" an Absurdity--An English Name Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-
ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nu-la--Indian Superstitions and Spiritual 
Views--A Free National Park Desirable--Off on the Trail.

DURING our long stay in the Yosemite, I discovered that almost every 
prominent object and locality in and about it, had some distinctive 
appellation. Every peak and cliff, every canyon or ravine, meadow, stream 
and waterfall, had a designation by which it could be distinguished by the 
Yosemites. I made considerable effort to acquire these names in their 
native purity. Although I did not at that time learn all of them, I did in 
subsequent visits to the valley and to the camps of the remnants of the 
tribes, acquire, as I then believed, a very nearly correct pronunciation 
of most of them. I used all the advantages afforded by my position as one 
of the Spanish interpreters, and applied myself perseveringly to the task 
of preserving these names; for even at that early day I realized that 
public interest would, in time, be attached to that wonderful locality. I 
was ridiculed for the idea, or at least for the supposition that it 
probably would be awakened during my life-time.

I obtained many of the names of objects and locations from old Ten-ie-ya 
himself, whenever I could find him in a communicative mood. As he was 
reputed to be quite a 

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linguist, speaking, besides his native Ah-wah-ne-chee, the Pai-ute, and 
other dialects, I regarded his authority as superior to that of either the 
Po-ho-no or Noot-chu; Indians, who differed from him in the pronunciation 
of some of the names.

I was unable to converse with Ten-ie-ya except through an interpreter, but 
the words I noted down from the old chief's lips as they sounded to my ear 
at the time, getting the signification as best I could, or not at all. 
There is really no more sentiment or refined imagery of expression among 
Indians than will be found among ignorant people of any kind. But living 
as they do in close affinity with nature, natural objects first attract 
their attention, and the dominant characteristics of any object impress 
themselves upon their language. Hence many of their words are supposed to 
be representative of natural sounds. Our Po-ho-no-chee and Noot-chu; 
scouts were familiar with the dialect in common use by the Yosemites, and 
they also aided me, while at times they confused, in acquiring the proper 
names. The territory claimed by the Po-ho-no-chees, joined that of the 
Yosemites on the south. During the Summer months, they occupied the region 
of the Po-ho-no Meadows, and the vicinity of the Pohono Lake. Their 
territory, however, extended to the right bank of the South Fork of the 
Merced. It was there we found a little band on our first expedition. Some 
of this band were quite intelligent, having with the Noot-chu;s, worked 
for Major Savage. It was from them that the Major first learned that the 
Yosemites were a composite band, collected from the disaffected of other 
bands in that part of California, and what is now Nevada; and as the Major 
said, the dialect in common use among them was nearly as much of a mixture 
as the components of the band itself, for he recognized Pai-ute, Kah-we-ah 
and Oregon Indian words among them.

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Major Savage was intimately familiar with the dialects of his Indian 
miners and customers, and was probably at that time the best interpreter 
in California of the different mountain dialects.

I consulted him freely as to the pronunciation of the names, and learned 
his interpretattion of the meaning of them. These names, or most of them, 
were first given for publication by myself, as received from the Yosemites 
and Po-ho-no-chees; together with English names which had been given to 
some of the same points by the battalion. I purposely avoided all attempts 
at description, giving instead, a few estimates of heights. The data then 
furnished by myself was published in editorials, and has been mostly 
preserved, though in an imperfect state, from some fault in my writing or 
that of the proof-reader. Reference to old files of the "California 
Chronicle," "Sacramento Union," "California Farmer" and the Mariposa 
papers, will show a somewhat different orthography from that now in use.(*)

While in the valley I made memoranda of names and important events, which 
I have preserved, and which, with interpretations kindly furnished me by 
Mr. B. B. Travis, an excellent modern interpreter, I am now using to 
verify my recollections and those of my comrades. While acquiring these 
names, I employed every opportunity to make them familiar, but this proved 
to be a thankless task, or at least it was an impossible one. The great 
length of some of the names, and the varied pronunciations, made the 
attempt an impracticable one. I then gave attention to the substitution 

(* Mr. Winchester, connected with some eastern publication, accompanied 
Captain Boling and myself, in the latter part of June, 1851, as far as the 
Tehon Pass. During the trip I gave him a full account of the operations of 
the battalion, which he took notes of, and said he should publish on 
arriving home. His health was very poor, and I doubt if his manuscript was 
ever published. I never heard from him afterwards.)

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of suitable English names in place of the Indian words, and to supersede 
the fantastic and absurd ones already suggested and affixed by some of the 
command. It is so customary for frontiersmen to give distinctive names of 
their own coinage, that we had great difficulty in getting any of the 
Indian names adopted; and considerable judgment had to be exercised in 
selecting such English names as would "stick"--as would displace such 
names as the "Giant's Pillar," "Sam Patch's Falls," "The Devil's
Night-Cap," etc., etc. Many English names were given because they were 
thought to be better than the Indian names, which could not be remembered 
or pronounced, and the meaning of which was not understood. The English 
names agreed upon at that time have since been retained, notwithstanding 
some adverse criticisms and efforts to supersede them by some fancied 
Indian or mythological substitute. Some of these names were the selection 
of my comrades--"Cloud's Rest," for one; because upon our first visit the 
party exploring the "Little Yosemite" turned back and hastened to camp 
upon seeing the clouds rapidly settling down to rest upon that mountain, 
thereby indicating the snow storm that soon followed.

The most of the names were however, selected by myself, and adopted by our 
command. This deference was awarded to my selections because I was 
actively interested in acquiring the Indian names and significations, and 
because I was considered the most interested in the scenery.

I have related in a previous chapter the incident of selecting the name 
"Yosemite" for the valley, not then knowing its Indian name. As the "High 
Fall," near which we were encamped, appeared to be the principal one of 
the Sierras, and was the fall par excellence, I gave that the name of 
"Yosemite Falls," and in so naming it I but followed out the idea of the 
Indians who called it 

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"Choo-look" or "Scholook," which signifies in this case "The Fall." A 
comparison of the Yosemite Falls with those known in other parts of the 
world, will show that in elements of picturesque beauty, height, volume, 
color and majestic surroundings, the Yosemite has no rival upon earth. The 
Zambesi and Niagara are typical of volume, but the Yosemite is sixteen 
times greater in height than Niagara, and about eight times that of the 
Victoria Falls. The upper part of the Yosemite is more than twice the 
height of the Svoringvoss, of Norway, and lacks but thirty feet of being 
twice as high as the highest of the Southerland waterfalls, of New 
Zealand. The three falls of the Southerland aggregate but 1,904 feet, 730 
less than the Yosemite.

The Ribbon Fall of the El Capitan has a sheer descent of 2,100 feet, but 
its beauty disappears with the melting snow. The other falls were only 
designated by the names of the streams upon which they are situated. The 
river Merced was spoken of as the river of Ah-wah-ne; but the three 
principal branches were variously designated; the main, or middle, up to 
the Vernal Fall, as "Yan-o-pah," the "Water Cloud" branch, and above the 
Vernal, as "Yo-wy-we-ack," "the twisting rock branch."

The north and south branches had their distinctive names; the north, Py-we-
ack, meaning the branch of the "Glistening Rocks," and the south, Too-lool-
we-ack, or more definitely, Too-lool-lo-we-ack. The modern interpretations 
of some of these names may be regarded as quite fanciful, though Major 
Savage would declare that Indian languages were so full of figures of 
speech that without imagination they could not be understood.

The strictly literal interpretation of this name would be inadmissable, 
but it is well enough to say, that to the unconscious innocence of their 
primitive state, the word simply represented an effort of nature in the 
difficult passage of the water down through the rocky gorge. It is derived 
from 

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Too-lool and We-ack, and means, [WebRoots: unable to reproduce]. This name 
has been published as if by authority to signify "The Beautiful"--how 
beautiful, the learned in Greek may judge.

This really beautiful fall was visited by few of our battalion, and owing 
to the impracticability of following up the canyon above the fall, and the 
great difficulty of access to it, it was left neglected; the command 
contenting itself with a distant view. In view of the discoveries of Mr. 
Muir that there were glaciers at its source, and that the cliff now known 
as "Glacier Point" may be said to mark the entrance to this "South
canyon," a name often confounded with "South Fork," and especially because 
of the impropriety of translating this Indian name, I think it advisable 
to call this the Glacier Fall, and, therefore, give it that name in this 
volume. The name of "Illeuette" is not Indian, and is, therefore, 
meaningless and absurd. In accordance with the customs of these mountain 
people of naming their rivers from the most characteristic features of 
their source, the North or Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, which comes 
down the North canyon from the glistening glacial rocks at its source, was 
called Py-we-ack, "the river of glistening rocks," or more literally, 
perhaps, "the river-smoothed rocks." Whether from Pai, a river, or from Py-
ca-bo, a spring, I am in doubt. If the first syllable of the name Py-we-
ack be derived from Py-ca-bo, then, probably, the name signified to them 
"the glistening rock spring branch," as the ice-burnished rocks at the 
head of Lake Ten-ie-ya stand at the source of the river.

I have never been satisfied with the poetical interpretation given the 
name, nor with its transfer to "Yan-o-pah," the branch of the "little 
cloud," as rendered by Mr. Travis. But as Py-we-ack has been displaced 
from Lake Ten-ie-ya and its outlet, it is proper and in accordance with 
the 

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custom to call the branch Ten-ie-ya also. The name of Ten-ie-ya was given 
to the lake at the time of its discovery. It was there we captured the 
remnant of the Yosemite band, as will be explained in the next chapter. 
The name of Ten-ie-ya canyon, Ten-ie-ya Fork and Lake Ten-ie-ya, has for 
this reason superseded the original name of Py-we-ack; but in naming the 
lake, I preserved an Indian name that represented the central figure in 
all of our operations.

Wai-ack was the name for "Mirror Lake," as well as for the mountain it so 
perfectly reflected. The lake itself was not particularly attractive or 
remarkable, but in the early morning, before the breeze swept up the 
canyon, the reflections were so perfect, especially of what is now known 
as Mt. Watkins, that even our scouts called our attention to it by 
pointing and exclaiming: "Look at Wai-ack," interpreted to mean the "Water 
Rock." This circumstance suggested the name of "Mirror Lake." The name was 
opposed by some, upon the ground that all still water was a mirror. My 
reply established the name. It was that other conditions, such as light 
and shade, were required, as when looking into a well, the wall of the 
Half Dome perfecting the conditions, and that when shown another pool that 
was more deserving, we would transfer the name. Captain Boling approved 
the name, and it was so called by the battalion.

The middle or main branch was designated by the Yosemites--from the fork 
of the Glacial Branch up to the Vernal Fall--as Yan-o-pah, because they 
were compelled to pass through the spray of the Vernal, to them a "little 
cloud," while passing up this canyon. The Indian name of the Nevada Fall, 
"Yo-wy-we," and that of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, afforded innumerable jests and 
amusing comments, and when the suggestion of naming these falls was made, 
it was received with rude hilarity. Names without 

[image caption: MIRROR LAKE--WATKINS' AND CLOUDS' REST.]

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number were presented as improvements on the originals. These names were 
indeed more than my own gravity would endure; Yo-wy-we being represented 
at first to signify the "wormy" water, from the twist or squirm given to 
the water in falling upon an obstructing rock; and therefore, after 
consultation with a few of my personal friends, I suggested Vernal, as an 
English name for Yan-o-pah, and Nevada, for that of Yo-wy-we. The Nevada 
Fall was so called because it was the nearest to the Sierra Nevada, and 
because the name was sufficiently indicative of a wintry companion for our 
spring.

It would be a difficult task to trace out and account for all of our 
impressions, or for the forms they take; but my recollection is that the 
cool, moist air, and newly-springing Kentucky blue-grass at the Vernal, 
with the sun shining through the spray as in an April shower, suggested 
the sensation of spring before the name of Vernal occurred to me; while 
the white, foaming water, as it dashed down Yo-wy-we from the snowy 
mountains, represented to my mind a vast avalanche of snow. In concluding 
my advocacy of these names, I represented the fact that while we were 
enjoying the vernal showers below, hoary-headed winter was pouring his 
snowy avalanches above us. Then, quoting from Byron, I said: 

The Vernal "*** mounts in spray the skies, and thence again
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain,
Is an eternal April to the ground,
Making it all one emerald."

These names were given during our long stay in the valley, at a time when 

"The fragrant strife of sunshine with the morn
Sweeten'd the air to ecstasy!"

It is agreeably complimentary for me to believe that our motives in giving 
English names were comprehended, and 

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our action in the matter appreciated by others. Mr. Richardson, in "Beyond 
the Mississippi," shows an almost intuitive perception of our reasons for 
adopting the English names given to the principal falls in the Yosemite. 
He says: "These names are peculiarly fitting--Bridal Veil indeed looks 
like a veil of lace; in summer when Bridal Veil and Yosemite dwarf, Vernal 
still pours its ample torrent, and Nevada is always white as a snow-drift. 
The Yosemite is height, the Vernal is volume, the Bridal Veil is softness, 
but the Nevada is height, volume and softness combined. South Fork 
cataract, most inaccessible of all, we did not visit. In spring each fall 
has twenty times as much water as in summer. On the whole Yosemite is 
incomparably the most wonderful feature on our continent." Speaking of the 
Vernal Fall, Mr. Richardson says: "I saw what to Hebrew prophet had been a 
vision of heaven, or the visible presence of the Almighty. It was the 
round rainbow--the complete circle. There were two brilliant rainbows of 
usual form, the crescent, the bow proper. But while I looked the two horns 
of the inner or lower crescent suddenly lengthened, extending on each side 
to my feet, an entire circle, perfect as a finger ring. In two or three 
seconds it passed away, shrinking to the first dimensions. Ten minutes 
later it formed again and again, and again as suddenly disappeared. Every 
sharp gust of wind showering the spray over me, revealed for a moment the 
round rainbow. Completely drenched, I stood for an hour and a half and saw 
fully twenty times that dazzling circle of violet and gold on a ground-
work of wet, dark rocks, gay dripping flowers and vivid grasses. I never 
looked upon any other scene in nature so beautiful and impressive." Mr. 
Richardson has with a great deal of enthusiasm given a vivid description 
of what appeared to me as a glowing representation of youthful spring; and 
to which the name of "vernal" was, I think, consistently and appropriately 
applied.

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Mr. Hutchings, in criticising the name Vernal, has misstated the Indian 
name for this fall, furnished him by myself, and published in his magazine 
and his "Scenes of Wonder;" and while neglecting to speak in terms of the 
vivid green of the yielding sod that "squirts" water, he eloquently 
describes the characteristics of a vernal shower; or the Yosemites "little 
water cloud," Can-o-pah; or, if it pleases him better, Yan-o-pah. The name 
given by the Yosemites to the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced was 
unmistakably Py-we-ack. This name has been transferred from its original 
locality by some romantic preserver of Indian names. While passing over to 
Yan-o-pah, it was provided with an entirely new signification. It is 
indeed a laughable idea for me to even suppose that a worm and acorn-
eating Indian would ever attempt to construct a name to mean "a shower of 
sparkling crystals;" his diet must have been improved by modern 
intelligent culture. The signification is certainly poetical, and is but 
one step removed from the sublime. One objection only can be raised 
against it; it is a little too romantic; something after the style of the 
tradition furnished Mr. Bancroft.(*)

Names were given to the numerous little streams that poured into the 
valley during the melting of the snow, and formed many beautiful water-
falls and cascades, but I shall not attempt to describe them, as it would 
serve no useful purpose to give the common-place, and in some instances, 
very primitive names of these ephemeral streams. In any other mountains, 
in any other country, great interest would attach to them; but in the 
Yosemite, they are but mere suggestions to the grander objects that 
overshadow them.

Another witness to the propriety of the English names is Professor J. D. 
Whitney, State Geologist. In his admirable "Yosemite Guide Book" he says: 
"The names given by the early white visitors to the region, have entirely 

(* From an elaboration of legend interpreted by Stephen M. Cunningham, in 
1857.) 

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replaced the native ones; and they are, in general, quite sufficiently 
euphonious and proper, some of them, perhaps slightly inclined to 
sentimentality; for if we recognize the appropriateness of the 'Bridal 
Veil' as a designation for the fall called Po-ho-no by the Indians, we 
fail to perceive why the 'Virgin's Tears' should be flowing on the 
opposite side of the valley."

This criticism is undoubtedly just. It seems as if some one had made an 
enormous stride across from the poetically sublime to ridiculous 
sentimentality. It is fortunate that the fall dries up early in the season!

The name of "Bridal-Veil" was suggested as an appropriate English name for 
the Fall of the Pohono by Warren Bær, Esq., at the time editor of the 
"Mariposa Democrat," while we were visiting the valley together. The 
appropriateness of the name was at once acknowledged, and adopted as 
commemorative of his visit. Mr. Bær was a man of fine culture, a son of 
the celebrated Doctor Bær of Baltimore.

The Pohono takes its rise in a small lake known as Lake Pohono, twelve or 
fifteen miles in a southernly direction from the Fall. The stream is fed 
by several small branches that run low early in the season.

The whole basin drained, as well as the meadows adjacent, was known to us 
of the battalion, as the Pohono branch and meadows.

The band who inhabited this region as a summer resort, called themselves 
Po-ho-no-chee, or Po-ho-na-chee, meaning the dwellers in Po-ho-no, as Ah-
wah-ne-chee was understood to indicate the occupants of Ah-wah-nee. This 
delightful summer retreat was famous for the growth of berries and 
grasses, and was a favorite resort for game. The black seeds of a coarse 
grass found there, were used as food. When pulverized in stone mortars, 
the meal was made into mush 

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and porridge. I found it impossible to obtain the literal signification of 
the word, but learned beyond a doubt that Po-ho-no-chee was in some way 
connected with the stream. I have recently learned that Po-ho-no means a 
daily puffing wind, and when applied to fall, stream, or meadow, means 
simply the fall, stream, or meadow of the puffing wind, and when applied 
to the tribe of Po-ho-no-chees, who occupied the meadows in summer, 
indicated that they dwelled on the meadows of that stream.

Mr. Cunningham says: "Po-ho-no, in the Indian language, means a belt or 
current of wind coming in puffs and moving in one direction." There is 
such a current, in its season, on the Old Millerton Road, where the dust 
is swept off clean. The Chow-chilla Indians call that the Po-ho-no. The Po-
ho-no of the Yosemite makes its appearance where the two cascade creeks 
enter the canon, and this air current is daily swept up the canon to the 
Bridal Veil Fall, and up its stream, in puffs of great power. The water is 
thrown back and up in rocket-like jets, far above the fall, making it 
uniquely remarkable among the wonders of the valley.

Mr. Hutching's interpretation is entirely fanciful, as are most of his 
Indian translations."

The name for the little fall to which the name of "Virgin's Tears" has 
been applied, was known to us as "Pigeon Creek Fall." The Indian name is 
"Lung-yo-to-co-ya"; its literal meaning is "Pigeon Basket," probably 
signifying to them "Pigeon Nests," or Roost. In explanation of the name 
for the creek, I was told that west of El Capitan, in the valley of the 
stream, and upon the southern slopes, pigeons were at times quite 
numerous. Near the southwest base of the cliff we found a large cache´. 
The supplies were put up on rocks, on trees and on posts. These granaries 

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were constructed of twigs, bark and grass, with the tops covered in and 
rounded like a large basket.

If this cache´ had any connection with the name of "Pigeon Baskets," Lung-
yo-to-co-ya would probably designate "The Pigeon Creek Cache´."

After a reverential salutation, "El Capitan" must now receive my attention.

It has been stated in print that the signification of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la 
was "Crane Mountain," and that the name was given because of the habit 
sand-hill cranes had of entering the valley over this cliff. I never knew 
of this habit. Many erroneous statements relating to the Yosemite have 
appeared--some in Appleton's Encyclopædia, and one very amusing one in 
Bancroft's Traditions--but none appear to me more improbable.

During our long stay at our second visit, this cliff was invariably called 
by our scouts Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, and with some slight difference in the 
terminal syllable, was so called by Ten-ie-ya. This word was invariably 
translated to mean the "Rock Chief," or "The Captain."

Upon one occasion I asked, "Why do you call the cliff Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?" 
The Indian's reply was, "Because he looks like one." I then asked, "What 
was meant by he?" at the same time saying that the cliff was not a man, to 
be called "he." His reply was, "Come with me and see." Taking Sandino with 
me, I went, and as the Indian reached a point a little above and some 
distance out from the cliff, he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image 
of a man's head and face, with side whiskers, and with an expression of 
the sturdy English type, and asked, "Does he not look like Tote-ack-ah-noo-
la?" The "Rock Chief," or "Captain," was again Sandino's interpretation of 
the word while viewing the likeness.

This was the first intimation that any of us had of the 

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reason why the name was applied, and it was shown in response to the 
question asked, why the rock had been personified.

To-tor-kon, is the name for a sand-hill crane, and ni-yul-u-ka, is the Pai-
ute for head; but "crane-head" can scarcely be manufactured out of Tote-
ack-ah-noo-la. It appears to me most probable that Tote-ack-ah-noo-la is 
derived from "ack," a rock, and To-whon-e-o, meaning chief. I am not 
etymologist enough to understand just how the word has been constructed, 
but am satisfied that the primates of the compound are rock and chief. If, 
however, I am found in error, I shall be most willing to acknowledge it, 
for few things appear more uncertain, or more difficult to obtain, than a 
complete understanding of the soul of an Indian language; principally 
because of the ignorance and suspicion with which a persistent and 
thorough research is met by the sensitively vain and jealous savages.

In leaving this subject, I would say that before it be too late, a careful 
and full collection of vocabularies of all the tongues should be made. I 
am aware of what has already been done by the labors of Schoolcraft, and 
the officers of the army in more modern times; but there is yet left a 
large field for persistent labor, that should be worked by the Smithsonian 
Institute or ethnological societies.

In adopting the Spanish interpretation, "El Capitan," for Tote-ack-ah-noo-
la, we pleased our mission interpreters and conferred upon the majestic 
cliff a name corresponding to its dignity. When this name was approved it 
set aside forever those more numerous than belong to royal families. It is 
said by Mr. Hutchings that a profile likeness is readily traced on the 
angle of the cliff. The one pointed out to me was above the pine tree 
alcove on the southern face of the cliff, half way up its wall. It 
appeared to have been formed by the peculiar conformation of the rock and 

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oxidation. The chemical stain of iron, or other mineral substance, had 
produced this representation, which was looked upon with superstitious awe.

"The Fallen Rocks," "The Frog Mountains," or "Three Brothers," the 
"Yosemite Falls," "The Lost Arrow," "Indian canyon" and "The Arrow-wood 
Rocks" have already been noticed in these pages. It remains for me to 
briefly notice a few more objects and close this chapter. The names "North 
Dome," "South Dome" and "Half Dome" were given by us during our long stay 
in the valley from their localities and peculiar configuration. Some 
changes have been made since they were adopted. The peak called by us the 
"South Dome" has since been given the name of "Sentinel Dome," and the 
"Half Dome," Tis-sa-ack, represesented as meaning the "Cleft Rock," is now 
called by many the "South Dome."(*) The name for the "North Dome" is To-ko-
ya, its literal signification "The Basket." The name given to the rocks 
now known as "The Royal Arches" is Scho-ko-ya when alluding to the fall, 
and means the "Basket Fall," as coming from To-ko-ya, and when referring 
to the rock itself it was called Scho-ko-ni, meaning the movable shade to 
a cradle, which, when in position, formed an arched shade over the 
infant's head. The name of "The Royal Arch" was given to it by a comrade 
who was a member of the Masonic Fraternity, and it has since been called 
"The Royal Arches." The "Half Dome" was figuratively spoken of as "The 
Sentinel" by our mission Indians, because of its overlooking the valley. 
The present "Sentinel" they called "Loya," a corruption of Olla (Oya), 
Spanish for an earthen water-pot. The mountain tribes use, instead, a long-
pointed basket, shaped somewhat like that rock, which the basket is 
supposed to resemble.

(* This cliff was climbed for the first time by Mr. George G. Anderson, on 
October 12th. 1875. It has now a stair-way running over the difficult part 
of the ascent.) 

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[image caption: SENTINEL ROCK. (3,043 feet in height.)]

The name of "Glacier Point" is said to be Pa-til-le-ma, a translation of 
which I am unable to give. IIo-yas, and not Lo-ya, as has been stated by 
some, referred to certain holes in detached rocks west of the Sentinel, 
which afforded 

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"milling privileges" for a number of squaws, and hence, the locality was a 
favorite camp ground. "The Sentinel" or "Loya," simply marked the near 
locality of the Ho-yas or mortars, or "The camp ground;" as it does now 
The Hotels. It was a common practice for visitors to confer new names on 
the objects of their enthusiastic admiration, and these were frequenly 
given to the public through letters to newspapers, while others may be 
found in the more enduring monuments of literature. It is a matter of no 
surprise that so few of them ever stuck. But little change has really been 
made in the English names for the more important objects within the valley 
and in its immediate vicinity. The Cathedral Rocks and spires, known as 
Poo-see-na-chuc-ka, meaning "Mouse-proof Rocks," from a fancied 
resemblance in shape to their acorn magazines or cache's, or a suitability 
for such use, have been somewhat individualized by their English names.

Of Ko-su-kong, the name of the "Three Graces," I never learned the 
meaning. Ta-pun-ie-me-te is derived from Ta-pun-ie, meaning the toes, 
because of walking on tip-toes across, and referred to the "stepping 
stones" that were at the lower ford. Mr. Travis' "succession of rocks" 
simply indicated the turning-off place. There are other names that it 
appears unimportant for me to notice. They have been sufficiently well 
preserved in Professor Whitney's valuable Guide Book.

Some romantic believers in the natural tendencies of the Indians to be 
poetical in their expressions, twist the most vulgar common-place 
expressions and names into significations poetically refined, and of 
devotional sincerity.

Others have taken the same license in their desire to cater to the taste 
of those credulous admirers of the NOBLE RED MAN, the ideal of romance, 
the reality of whom is graded low down in the scale of humanity. Mr. 
Hutchings, who, were 

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it not for his exuberant imagination, might have learned better, gives the 
signification of "Lung-oo-to-koo-ya" as "Long and Slender," and applies it 
to what he calls the Ribbon Fall. His name is better than his 
interpretation. Mr. H. also says that the signification of To-toc-ah-nu-la 
is "a Semi-Deity;" that of "Tissa-ack" "Goddess of the Valley," and that 
Po-ho-no means "The Spirit of the Evil Wind."

These interpretations, like the "sparkling shower of crystals" are more 
artistically imaginative than correct. The Pai-ute for wind, is Ni-gat, 
and the Kah-we-ah, is Yah-i, one or the other of which tongues were used 
by the Yosemites; though the Pai-ute, or a dialect of it, was given the 
preference.

The savages have a crude, undefinable idea of a Deity or Great Spirit, a 
Spirit of Good, who never does them harm, and whose home is in the happy 
land they hope to reach after death. This happy hereafter, is supposed by 
most on the western slope of the Sierras to be located in the West, while 
those on the eastern slope or within the Colorado Basin, in Arizona and in 
Mexico, locate it in the East. They all have a superstitious fear of evil 
spirits, which they believe have the power to do them great harm, and 
defeat their undertakings.

They do not as a rule look to the Great Spirit for immediate protection 
from evil, but instead, rely upon amulets, incense and charms, or 
"medicine" bags. Through these and certain ceremonies of their priests or 
"mediums," they endeavor to protect themselves and their families from the 
evil influence of spirits in and out of the flesh.

They believe that the spirits of the dead who have not, through proper 
ceremonies, been released from the body and allowed at once to go to the 
happy land, were evil spirits that were doomed to haunt certain 
localities. They 

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looked with superstitious awe upon objects and localities, which to them 
were of mysterious character. Even familiar objects were sometimes looked 
upon as having been taken possession of by spirits. These spirits it was 
supposed could do injury to those who might venture near them without the 
protection afforded by their charms, or certain offerings to their priests 
for indulgences from the spiritual inhabitants. Streams were often said to 
be controlled by spirits, and for this reason, offerings of tobacco and 
other substances were at times thrown in as a propitiation for past 
offenses, or as an offering for something in expectancy. They believe that 
the elements are all under control, or may be used by the more powerful 
spirits, and, owing probably to its infrequency in California, lightning 
seemed to be an especial object of awe and wonder to them.

Waterfalls seemed not to engage their attention for their beauty, but 
because of the power they manifested; and in none of their objections made 
to the abandonment of their home, was there anything said to indicate any 
appreciation of the scenery. Their misfortunes, accidents and failures 
were generally believed to have resulted from evil spiritual interference, 
and to insure success in any undertaking, these dark or evil spirits must 
first be conciliated through their "medicine men," from whom they obtain 
absolution.

All spirits that had not been released and taken their flight to their 
happy Western spirit-land were considered as evil; and only the Great 
Spirit was believed to be very good. The Indians of the Yosemite Valley 
did not look upon Tote-ack-ah-nu-lah as a veritable Deity or "semi-Deity." 
They looked upon this cliff, and the representation of the likeness of a 
human face, with the same mysterious awe and superstitious feeling that 
they entertained for some other objects; though perhaps their reverence 
was in a somewhat higher degree stimulated by this imposing human 
appearance; and 

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their ability, therefore, the better to personify it. They regarded this 
vast mountain as an emblem of some mysterious power, beyond their 
comprehension. From my knowledge of their religious belief, I have come to 
the conclusion that their ideas in this direction are wholly spiritual, 
without material representation, except as stated, through symbolic ideas, 
growing out of their superstitious ignorance, like some ignorant 
Christians. They have in imagination peopled the rocks and mountains, 
woods and valleys, streams and waterfalls with innumerable spiritual 
occupants, possessed of supernatural or spiritual powers, none of which 
are believed by them to equal the power of the Great Spirit whose home is 
in the West, and who prohibits the return of the evil ones, until a 
probationary existence here upon this earth shall have given them such 
knowledge of and disgust with evil as will fit them for the enjoyment of 
good.

The special inconsistency of this belief seems to be, that if one of these 
demons can lure any one to destruction, the victim will be compelled to 
take the place and occupation of the evil spirit, who is at once liberated 
and takes its flight to join its family or such members of it, as are 
already with the blessed. This idea seemed to be based upon the natural 
selfishness of human nature, that would gladly fix its responsibilities 
and sufferings upon another. A writer in his descriptions of the Yosemite 
says: "The savage lowers his voice to a whisper, and crouches trembling 
past Po-ho-no, while the very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him, 
that the discoverers of the valley obtained it with difficulty." These 
statements were prefaced by the assertion that "Po-ho-no is an evil spirit 
of the Indians' mythology." On our second visit to the valley, it will be 
remembered, we found huts built by the Yosemites not far from the Po-ho-no 
Fall.

I never found any difficulty in learning the name of this 

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fall, or observed any more fear of spirits exhibited at this fall than at 
the Yosemite fall; but in later years, for causes that will appear in the 
course of this narrative, the little meadow and detached rocks west of Po-
ho-no, and near to the foot of the Mariposa trail; became haunted ground 
to the remnant of the band, for disaster and death followed the commission 
of crime at that locality.

Savages are seldom able to trace to themselves the cause of misfortune, 
and hence evil spirits must bear the burden of their complaint. For this 
service they are well paid through their representatives, the "medicine 
men." I have often been amused, and agreeably entertained while listening 
to their traditionary literature.

Among the Chippewa and Dahcota tribes, my likeness to a brother, who was a 
trader, was recognized, and many times I was honored by a prominent place 
being given me in their lodges and at their dances. Some of their 
mysteries I was not permitted to witness, but the consecration of the 
ground for the dance, which is performed with great ceremony, I have 
several times seen, and had its signification fully explained to me. The 
ceremony differs but little among the different tribes, and consists of 
invocations, burning incense, scattering down, feathers and evergreens 
upon the pathway or floor of the dance, lighting of the sacred fires with 
their ancient fire-sticks, which are still preserved among the priests, 
and repeating certain cabalistic words, the meaning of which they do not 
even pretend to understand, but which are supposed to have a most potent 
influence. They also have their pantomimes and romances, which they repeat 
to each other like children. This legendary literature is largely 
imaginative, but I found the California Indians less poetical in thought 
and feeling than eastern tribes, and less musical, though perhaps as 
primitively figurative in expression.

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Though seemingly unimpressed by their sublime surroundings, their figures 
and comparisons, when not objectionable, were beautiful, because natural. 
The Pai-ute and Mono Colony originally established by Ten-ie-ya, was the 
result of a desire to improve their physical condition. They were attached 
to this valley as a home. The instinctive attraction that an Indian has 
for his place of nativity is incomprehensible; it is more than a religious 
sentiment; it is a passion. Here, sheltered in a measure from the storms 
of winter, and the burning heat of summer, they met as in an earthly 
paradise, to exchange the products of either side of the Sierras, to 
engage in a grand hunt and festival offer up religious sacrifices, and 
awaken the echoes of the valley with their vociferous orations. Should 
their skill fail them in the chase, and the mountain or brook refuse their 
luscious offerings, they had a never-failing resource in the skill with 
which they could dispossess the native Californian, or the newly arrived 
immigrant of his much prized herds, and translate them to their mountain 
home. Nor was there need of herd-men to guard their fleecy flocks or 
roving herds, for the prancing horse or gentle kine, having once been slid 
over the slippery gateway, avoided the obstruction ever after; and 
remained contented in their fields of blue grass and clover.

[image caption: THE INDIAN BELLE.]

But, when the influence of the "gold en era" finally reached this once 
blissfully 

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ignorant people, and wants were created that their belles and beaux had 
never known before, their imaginations excited by the superfluities of 
civilization, their natural cunning came at once to their aid, and lo! the 
"honest miner" or timid Chinaman contributed from their scanty stores and 
wardrobes, or the poorly sheltered goods of the mountain trader opened 
their canvas walls to the keen arguments of their flinty knives, and wants 
real or fancied were at once supplied.

What then was there lacking, to make the Yosemites a happy people, removed 
as they were from the bad influences of whiskey and the white man's 
injustice? Only this: "the whites would not let them alone." So Ten-ie-ya 
had said, as if aggrieved. Like all his race, and perhaps like all 
ignorant, passionate and willful persons, he appeared unconscious of his 
own wrong-doing, and of the inevitable fate that he was bringing upon 
himself and his people.

In his talk with Major Savage, he had spoken of the verdure clothing the 
valley, as sufficient for his wants, but at the time, knowing that acorns 
formed the staple of their food, and that clover, grass, sorrel and the 
inner bark of trees were used to guard against biliousness and eruptive 
diseases, little heed was given to his declaration. Now, however, that we 
saw the valley clothed with exquisite and useful verdure, for June was now 
at hand, Ten-ie-ya's remarks had a greater significance, and we could 
understand how large flocks and herds had been stolen, and fattened to 
supply their wants. The late claimants to this lovely locality, "this 
great moral show," have been relieved of their charge by act of Congress, 
and fifty thousand dollars given them for their claims. It will probably 
now remain forever free to visitors. The builders of the toll roads and 
trails should also receive fair compensation for their pioneer labors in 
building them, that they may also be free to all. 

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When this is done, this National Park will be esteemed entirely worthy of 
this great republic and of the great golden State that has accepted its 
guardianship.(*)

Perhaps no one can better than myself realize the value of the labors 
performed by the early pioneers, that has made it possible for tourists to 
visit in comfort some of the most prominent objects of interest; but "a 
National Park" should be entirely free. In suggesting a new name for the 
fall of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, or the absurd "Illiluette," I wish to honor 
Mr. Muir for his intelligent explorations and discoveries, and at the same 
time feel that the word glacier is the most appropriate. Of this, however, 
the residents of the valley will judge.

The names of the different objects and localities of especial interest 
have now become well established by use. It is not a matter of so much 
surprise that there is such a difference in the orthography of the names. 
I only wonder that they have been retained in a condition to be 
recognized. It is not altogether the fault of the interpreters that 
discrepancies exist in interpretation or pronunciation, although both are 
often undesignedly warped to conform to the ideality of the interpreter. 
Many of the names have been modernized and adorned with transparencies in 
order to illuminate the subject of which the parties were writing. Those 
who once inhabited this region, and gave distinctive appellations, have 
all disappeared. The names given by them can be but indifferently 
preserved or counterfeited by their camp followers, the "California 
Diggers;" but June is now with us, and we must hasten on to our work of 
following up the trail.

(* All trails within the original grant have now been made free.)



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CHAPTER XIV.
A Mountain Storm--Delay of Supplies--Clams and Ipecac--Arrival of Train--A 
Cute Indian--Indian Sagacity--A Dangerous Weapon--Capture of Indian 
Village--An Eloquent Chief--Woman's Rights versus Squaw's Wrongs--A 
Disturbed Family--A Magnificent Sunrise--On a Slippery Slope--Sentiment 
and Poetry--Arrival at the Fresno.

A MOUNTAIN storm raged with such violence as to stampede the mules of the 
pack-train while the escort were encamped on the South Fork. The mules 
were not overtaken until they reached the foot-hills of the Fresno. In the 
meantime, while impatiently awaiting their return, our rations gave out. 
In order to somewhat appease our hunger, Dr. Black distributed his 
hospital stores among us. There were some canned fruits and meats, and 
several cans of oysters and clams. The southerners of the command waived 
their rights to the clams, but cast lots for the oysters. Thinking we had 
a prize in the clams, we brought to bear our early recollections of 
Eastern life, and compounded a most excellent and, what we supposed would 
be, a most nourishing soup. Our enjoyment, however, of this highly prized 
New England dish was of short duration; for from some cause, never 
satisfactorily explained by Dr. Black, or other eminent counsel, our 
Eastern mess, as if moved by one impulse of re-gurgitation, gave up their 
clams. Fortunately for us our supplies arrived the next morning; for the 
game procurable was not sufficient for the command. 

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Major Savage sent Cow-chitty, a brother of Pon-watch-ee, the chief of the 
Noot-choo band, whose village we surprised before we discovered the 
valley, as chief of scouts. He was accompanied by several young warriors, 
selected because they were all familiar with the Sierra Nevada trails and 
the territory of the Pai-utes, where it was thought probable the 
expedition would penetrate.

Captain Boling had in his report to Major Savage, complained of the 
incapacity of Sandino as guide, and expressed the opinion that he stood in 
awe of Ten-ie-ya. By letter, the Major replied, and particularly advised 
Captain Boling that implicit confidence could be placed in Cow-chitty and 
his scouts, as the sub-chief was an old enemy of Ten-ie-ya, and was 
esteemed for his sagacity and wood-craft, which was superior to that of 
any Indian in his tribe. Captain Boling had improved in health and 
strength, and concluded to venture on his contemplated expedition over the 
mountains. He at once ordered preparations to be made. A camp-guard was 
detailed, and a special supply train fitted out. All was ready for a start 
in the morning. During the evening Captain Boling consulted our new guide 
as to what trail would be best to follow to the Mono pass and over the 
mountains. Cow-chitty had already learned from our Po-ho-no scouts and 
those of his own tribe, the extent of our explorations, and had had a long 
talk with Sandino as well as with Ten-ie-ya. The mission Indian and the 
old chief tried to make the new guide believe that the Yosemites had gone 
over the mountains to the Monos. Indian-like, he had remained very grave 
and taciturn, while the preparations were going on for the expedition. 
Now, however, that he was consulted by Captain Boling, he was willing 
enough to give his advice, and in a very emphatic manner declared his 
belief to the Captain that Ten-ie-ya's people were not far off; that they 
were either hiding in some of 

Page 224

the rocky canyons in the vicinity of the valley, or in those of the 
Tuolumne, and discouraged the idea of attempting the expedition with 
horses. Although this did not coincide with the views of our Captain, the 
earnestness of Cow-chitty decided him to make another attempt in the near 
vicinity before crossing the mountains. The horses and supply-train were 
accordingly left in camp, and we started at daylight on foot, with three 
days' rations packed in our blankets. We left the valley this time by way 
of the Py-we-ack canyon, and ascended the north cliff trail, a short 
distance above "Mirror Lake." Soon after reaching the summit, Indian signs 
were discovered near the trail we were on. The old trail up the slope of 
the canyon, was here abandoned, and the fresh trail followed up to and 
along the ridges just below the snow line. These signs and the tortuous 
course pursued, were similar to the tracks followed on our trip up Indian 
canyon, and were as easily traced until we reached an elevation almost 
entirely covered with snow from five to ten feet deep, except on exposed 
tops of ridges, where the snow had blown off to the north side or melted 
away.

I had accompanied our guide in advance of the command, but observing that 
our course was a zig-zag one, some times almost doubling on our trail, I 
stopped and told the guide to halt until the Captain came up. He had been 
following the ridges without a sign of a trail being visible, although he 
had sometimes pointed to small pieces of coarse granite on the rocky 
divides, which he said had been displaced by Ten-ie-ya's scouts. That in 
going out or returning from their camps, they had kept on the rocky 
ridges, and had avoided tracking the snow or soft ground, so as to prevent 
the Americans from following them. As we stopped, he called me a little 
out of hearing of those with me, and by pantomime and a few words 
indicated his belief in the near presence of Indians.

Page 225

When the Captain came up he said: "The hiding-place of the Yosemites is 
not far off. If they had crossed the mountains their scouts would not be 
so careful to hide their trail. They would follow the old trail if they 
came to watch you, because it is direct, and would only hide their tracks 
when they were again far from the valley and near their rancheria." This 
was, in part, an answer to Captain Boling's inquiry as to why we had left 
the old trail, and gone so far out of our way. I explained to him what Cow-
chitty had stated, and pointed out what the guide or scout said was a 
fresh trail. The Captain looked tired and disheartened, but with a grim 
smile said: "That may be a fresh Indian track, but I can't see it. If left 
to my own feelings and judgment, I should say we were on another wild-
goose chase. If the guide can see tracks, and thinks he has got'em this 
time, I reckon it is better to follow on; but if there is any short-cut 
tell him to give us some landmarks to go by; for I find I am not as strong 
as I thought. Let us take another look at this fresh trail, and then you 
may get Cow-chitty's idea as to the probable course this trail will take 
further on." As we moved up the trail a little farther, the expert scout 
pointed out more fresh signs, but Captain Boling failed to discern a 
trail, and gave up the examination, and as he seated himself for a 
momentary rest, said: "I reckon it is all right, Doc. The Major says in 
his letter that I can bet on Cow-chitty every time. But I can't see any 
more of a trail on this rocky ridge than I can see the trail of that wood-
pecker as he flies through the air, but I have some faith in instinct, for 
I reckon that is what it is that enables him to follow a trail that he 
imagines should be there. We shall have to trust him to follow it, and let 
him have his own way as you would a fox-hound; if he don't, puppy-like, 
take the back track, or run wild with us over some of these ledges." Old 
Ten-ie-ya was now 

Page 226

appealed to for information concerning the fresh signs, but he only 
reiterated his former statement that his people had gone over the 
mountains to the Monos, and the signs he said were those of Tuolumne 
Indians. Captain Boling had taken the old chief along with us on this 
trip, hoping to make him of some use, if not directly as guide, 
indirectly; it was thought he might betray his people's hiding-place. But 
the Captain was disappointed in this, for no finished gamester ever 
displayed a more immovable countenance than did Ten-ie-ya when questioned 
at any time during the expedition. A cord had again been placed around his 
waist to secure his allegiance, and as we were about to move ahead once 
more, he very gravely said that if we followed the signs, they would take 
us over to the Tuolumne.

Before this Sandino had professed to agree with Ten-ie-ya, but now he 
carefully withheld his own opinions, and as carefully rendered his 
interpretations. He feared Cow-chitty more than Ten-ie-ya; and he was 
frequently seen to cross himself while muttering his prayers. Spencer and 
myself re-assured the timid creature, and made him quite happy by telling 
him that we would guard him against the "Gentiles," as he called the 
natives.

I explained to Cow-chitty our inability to follow the tracks as he did 
over the bare granite. This flattered him, and he then pointed out his own 
method of doing so, which was simple enough with one of keen sight. It 
consisted entirely in discovering fragments of stone and moss that had 
been displaced, and broken off and scattered upon the ground. The upper 
surface of the broken fragments of stone were smooth and bleached, while 
the under surface was dark or colored. It was impossible to walk over 
these stony ridges without displacing some of the fragments, and these the 
quick eye of Cow-chitty was sure to discover. Cow-chitty was pleased when 
told of Captain 

Page 227

Boling's appreciation of his sagacity, and honored by the confidence the 
Captain began to show him. He expressed his gratification by being more 
communicative than he had been before. He said, "These signs tell me that 
the Yosemite scouts have been watching all the movements of the Americans, 
and the trails that will take you to their camps. They will not look for 
you on this trail. They are watching for you from the ridges nearer the 
valley. We will not have to go far to find their camps. This trail will 
lead us to the head of the Py-we-ack, where the Pai-ute or Mono trail 
crosses into the upper valley of the Tuolumne; and if we don't find them 
at the lake, we will soon know if they have crossed the mountains."

He then proposed that Captain Boling send out scouts to intercept and 
capture the Yosemite scouts, who might be below us watching the valley. 
This being interpreted to Captain Boling, he at once adopted the 
suggestion of the cout. He selected three of our best runners, and 
directed Cow-chitty to select three of his. These were sent out in pairs--
an Indian and a white man. The scouts were placed under direction of the 
sub-chief, who followed the trail, and indicated to the Captain the most 
direct route for the main body to follow. In health Captain Boling was 
athletic and ambitious on the march. He had now, however, over-estimated 
his strength, and suffered considerably from fatigue; but the halt 
afforded him a rest that very much refreshed him. I traveled with him 
during the remainder of the march, so as to be near him as interpretor, 
and took charge of Ten-ie-ya. The Captain, Ten-ie-ya, Sandino and myself 
traveled together. Our march was more leisurely than in the earlier part 
of the day. This allowed Captain Boling to somewhat recover from his 
fatigue.

On an ascending spur that ran down to the Py-we-ack, we found Cow-chitty 
quietly awaiting our approach. As we 

Page 228

halted, he pointed out to Captain Boling a dim circle of blue smoke, that 
appeared to eddy under the lee of a large granite knob or peak, and said, 
"Rancheria." Old Ten-ie-ya was standing in front of me, but exhibited no 
interest in the discovery. As I lowered my line of vision to the base of 
the cliff, to trace the source of the smoke, there appeared the Indian 
village, resting in fancied security, upon the border of a most beautiful 
little lake, seemingly not more than a half mile away. To the lake I 
afterwards gave the name of Ten-ie-ya. The granite knob was so bare, 
smooth and glistening, that Captain Boling at once pointed it out, and 
selected it as a landmark. He designated it as a rallying point for his 
men, if scattered in pursuit, and said that we should probably camp near 
it for the night.

While the Captain was studying the nature of the ground before us, and 
making his arrangements to capture the village, our scouts were discovered 
in full chase of an Indian picket, who was running towards the village as 
if his life depended upon his efforts. In the excitement of the moment 
Captain Boling ordered us to double-quick and charge, thinking, as he 
afterwards said, that the huts could not be much more than half a mile 
away. Such a mistake could only originate in the transparent air of the 
mountains. The village was fully two miles or more away. We did, however, 
double-quick, and I kept a gait that soon carried Ten-ie-ya and Sandino, 
with myself, ahead of our scattering column. Finding the rope with which I 
held Ten-ie-ya an encumbrance in our rapid march, I wound it round his 
shoulder and kept him in front of me. While passing a steep slope of 
overlapping granite rock, the old chief made a sudden spring to the right, 
and attempted to escape down the ragged precipice. His age was against 
him, for I caught him just as he was about to let himself drop from the 
projecting ledge to the ground below; his feet were already over the brink.

Page 229

I felt somewhat angered at the trick of the old fellow in attempting to 
relieve himself from my custody, and the delay it had occasioned me; for 
we had taken the most direct although not the smoothest course. I resumed 
our advance at a gait that hurried the old sachem forward, perhaps less 
carefully and more rapidly than comported with the dignity of his years 
and rank. I was amused at the proposition of one of the "boys" who had 
witnessed the transaction, to "shoot the old devil, and not be bothered 
with him any more." I of course declined this humane proposition to 
relieve me of further care, and at once became the chief's most devoted 
defender, which observing, he afterwards told Captain Boling that I was 
"very good." As we reached the more gently descending ground near the 
bottom of the slope, an Indian came running up the trail below us that led 
to the Rancheria. His course was at an acute angle to the one pursued by 
us toward the village, which was now but a few rods off. I ordered Sandino 
to cut him off and capture him before he should reach the camp. This was 
accomplished with great energy and a good degree of pride.

The Yosemites had already discovered our approach, but too late for any 
concerted resistance or for successful escape, for Lt. Crawford at the 
head of a portion of the command, dashed at once into the center of the 
encampment, and the terror-stricken Indians immediately threw up their 
bare hands in token of submission, and piteously cried out "pace! pace!" 
(peace, peace). As I halted to disarm the scout captured by Sandino, I was 
near enough to the camp to hear the expressions of submission. I was 
compelled to laugh at the absurd performances of Sandino, who to terrify 
his prisoner, was persistently holding in his face an old double-barreled 
pistol. I was aware the weapon was a harmless one, for one hammer was 
gone, and the other could 

Page 230

not be made to explode a cap. I took the bow and arrows from the 
frightened savage, and as Captain Boling came up I reported the capture, 
telling him at the same time of the surrender of the village or Rancheria 
to Lt. Crawford. Seeing some of the Indians leaving the camp, and running 
down the lake to a trail crossing its outlet, the Captain and the men with 
him sprang forward through the grove of pines near the crossing, and drove 
them back. No show of resistance was offered, neither did any escape from 
us.

While Captain Boling was counting his prisoners and corralling them with a 
guard, I, by his previous order, restrained Ten-ie-ya from any 
communication with his people. The chief of this village was a young man 
of perhaps thirty years of age. When called upon by the Captain to state 
how many were under his command, he answered that those in the encampment 
were all that was left; the rest had scattered and returned to the tribes 
they sprung from. Ten-ie-ya seemed very anxious to answer the 
interrogations made to the young chief, but Captain Boling would not allow 
his farther interference, and jokingly told me to send him over among the 
women who were grouped a little aside, as he was now about as harmless. I 
acted upon the suggestion, and upon his being told that he had the liberty 
of the camp if he made no further attempts to escape, the old fellow 
stepped off briskly to meet his four squaws, who were with this band, and 
who seemed as pleased as himself at their re-union.

Captain Boling felt satisfied that the answer given by this half-starved 
chief, and the few braves of his wretched looking band, were as truthful 
as their condition would corroborate. Finding themselves so completely 
surprised, notwithstanding their extreme vigilance, and comparing the well 
kept appearance of their old chief with their own worn out, dilapidated 
condition, they with apparent anxiety 

Page 231

expressed a willingness for the future to live in peace with the 
Americans. All hopes of avoiding a treaty, or of preventing their removal 
to the Reservation, appeared to have at once been abandoned; for when the 
young chief was asked if he and his band were willing to go to the Fresno, 
he replied with much emotion of gesture, and as rendered by Sandino to 
Spencer and myself: "Not only willing, but anxious;" for, said he: "Where 
can we now go that the Americans will not follow us?" As he said this, he 
stretched his arms out toward the East, and added: "Where can we make our 
homes, that you will not find us?" He then went on and stated that they 
had fled to the mountains without food or clothing; that they were worn 
out from watching our scouts, and building signal-fires to tire us out 
also.

They had been anxious to embroil us in trouble by drawing us into the 
canyons of the Tuolumne, where were some Pai-utes wintering in a valley 
like Ah-wah-ne. They had hoped to be secure in this retreat until the snow 
melted, so that they could go to the Mono tribe and make a home with them, 
but that now he was told the Americans would follow them even there, he 
was willing, with all his little band, to go to the plains with us." After 
the young chief had been allowed full liberty of speech, and had sat down, 
Ten-ie-ya again came forward, and would have doubtless made a confession 
of faith, but his speech was cut short by an order from Captain Boling to 
at once move camp to a beautiful pine grove on the north side of the 
outlet to the lake, which he had selected for our camping-place for the 
night. By this order he was able to have everything in readiness for an 
early start the next morning. There was an abundance of dry pine, 
convenient for our camp fires, and as the night was exceedingly cold, the 
glowing fires were a necessity to our comfort. The Indians were told to 
pack such movables as they desired to take with them, and move down at 
once to our camp-ground.

Page 232

The scene was a busy one. The squaws and children exhibited their delight 
in the prospect of a change to a more genial locality, and where food 
would be plenty. While watching the preparations of the squaws for the 
transfer of their household treasures and scanty stores, my attention was 
directed to a dark object that appeared to be crawling up the base of the 
first granite peak above their camp. The polished surface of the gleaming 
rock made the object appear larger than the reality. We were unable to 
determine what kind of an animal it could be; but one of our scouts, to 
whom the name of "Big Drunk" had been given, pronounced it a papoose, 
although some had variously called it a bear, a fisher or a coon. "Big 
Drunk" started after it, and soon returned with a bright, active boy, 
entirely naked, which he coaxed from his slippery perch. Finding himself 
an object of curiosity his fright subsided, and he drew from its hiding-
place, in the bushes near by, a garment that somewhat in shape, at least, 
resembled a man's shirt. " The Glistening Rocks " had rendered us all 
oblivious to the color, and that was left undetermined. This garment swept 
the ground after he had clothed himself with it. His ludicrous appearance 
excited our laughter, and as if pleased with the attentions paid to him, 
the little fellow joined heartily in the merriment he occasioned. It will 
not be out of place to here relate the sequel of this boy's history. 
Learning that he was an orphan and without relatives, Captain Boling 
adopted him, calling him "Reube," in honor of Lt. Reuben Chandler, who 
after Captain Boling was the most popular man in the battalion.

Some three or four years afterward, the boy, as if to illustrate the folly 
of the Captain in trying to civilize and educate him, ran away from his 
patron, taking with him two valuable, thorough-bred Tennessee horses, much 
prized by the Captain; besides money, clothing and arms 

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belonging to the Captain's brother-in-law, Col. Lane, of Stockton, in 
whose charge Captain Boling had placed him, that he might have the 
advantages of a good school. After collecting together all the Indians 
found in this encampment; the total number was found to be but thirty-
five, nearly all of whom were in some way a part of the family of the old 
patriarch, Ten-ie-ya. These were escorted to our camp, the men placed 
under guard, but the women and children were left free.

This was accomplished before sun down, and being relieved of duty, a few 
of us ran across the outlet of the lake, and climbing the divide on the 
south side of the lake, beheld a sunset view that will long be remembered. 
It was dark when we reached camp, and after a scanty repast, we spread our 
blankets, and soon were wrapped in slumber sweet.

We were awakened by the cold, which became more uncomfortable as night 
advanced, and finding it impossible to again compose ourselves to sleep, 
Captain Boling aroused the camp, and preparations were made by the light 
of the blazing camp-fires for an early start for the valley. Desiring some 
clean, fresh water, I went to the lake as the nearest point to obtain it, 
when, to my surprise, I found that the new ice formed during the night and 
connecting the old ice with the shore of the lake, was strong enough to 
bear me up. At a point where the old ice had drifted near, I went out some 
distance upon it, and it appeared strong enough to have borne up a horse. 
This was about the 5th of June, 1851. The change of temperature from 
summer in the valley to winter on the mountains, without shelter, was felt 
by us all. After a hasty breakfast, the word was passed to assemble, and 
we were soon all ready for the order to march. All at once there was 
turmoil and strife in camp, and what sounded to my ears very much like a 
Chinese concert. 

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Captain Boling was always a man of gallantry, and in this instance would 
not allow the squaws to take the burden of the baggage. Hence the 
confusion and delay. He ordered the Indians to carry the packs--burdens 
they had imposed on their women. This order brought down upon him the 
vituperations of the squaws and sullen murmurs from the "noble red men;" 
as often happens in domestic interference, the family was offended. Ten-ie-
ya rose to explain, and waxed eloquent in his protest against this 
innovation on their ancient customs.

As soon as the Captain was made aware of the old fellow's object in having 
"a talk," he cut short the debate by ordering one of the lieutenants to 
see that every Indian, as well as squaw, was properly loaded with a just 
proportion of their burdens. The real object of the Captain was to 
facilitate the return to the valley, by making it easy for the squaws and 
children to accompany us through without delays. One amusing feature in 
this arrangement was, that long after the men had been silenced, their 
squaws continued to murmur at the indignity practiced on their disgraced 
lords. I have my doubts, even to this day, whether the standard of women's 
rights was ever again waved among the mountain tribes after this "special 
order" was issued by our good-hearted Captain.

In order to take the most direct route to the valley, Captain Boling 
selected one of the young Yosemite Indians to lead the way with our 
regular guide. Being relieved of the charge of Ten-ie-ya, I took my usual 
place on the march with the guide. This position was preferred by me, 
because it afforded ample opportunity for observation and time for 
reflection; and beside, it was in my nature to be in advance. The trail 
followed, after leaving the lake, led us over bare granite slopes and 
hidden paths, but the distance was materially shortened. A short distance 
below the bottom land 

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of the lake, on the north side of the canyon and at the head of the gorge, 
the smooth, sloping granite projects like a vast roof over the abyss 
below. As we approached this, our young guide pointed toward it.

By close observation I was able to discover that the trail led up its 
sloping surface, and was assured by the guide that the trail was a good 
one. I felt doubtful of the Captain's willingness to scale that rocky 
slope, and halted for him to come up. The Captain followed the trail to 
its termination in the soil, and saw the cause of my having halted. Upon 
the discoloration of the rock being pointed out as the continuation of the 
trail, he glanced up the granite slope and said, "Go on, but be watchful, 
for a slide into the gorge would bring as certain death as a slide from 
that San Joaquin trail, which I have not yet forgotten." Some of the 
command did not fancy this any more than they did the Ten-ie-ya trail down 
"Indian canyon." We all pulled off our boots and went up this slope bare-
footed. Seeing there was no real danger, the most timid soon moved up as 
fearless as the others. I, with the advance, soon reached the soil above, 
and at the top halted until the Indians and our straggling column closed 
up. As I looked about me, I discovered, unfolding to my sight, one of the 
most charming views in this sublimest scenery of nature. During the day 
before, we had looked with astonishment on the almost boundless peaks, and 
snow-capped mountains, to be seen from the Mt. Hoffman divide. But here 
some of the same views appeared illuminated. In our ascent up the 
mountain, we had apparently met the rising sun. The scene was one long to 
be remembered for its brilliancy, although not describable.

Mr. Addison, in the Spectator, says: "Our imagination loves to be filled 
with an object, or to grasp at anything that is too big for its capacity. 
We are flung into a pleasing 

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astonishment at such unbounded views, and feel a delightful stillness and 
amazement in the soul." Mr. Addison has here expressed the feelings 
entertained by some of us, as the view met our gaze while looking out to 
the east, the south and the west. Although not sufficiently elevated to 
command a general outlook, the higher ridges framing some of the scenery 
to the north and eastward of us, the westerly view was boundless. The 
transparency of the atmosphere was here extreme, and as the sun illumined 
the snow-clad and ice-burnished peaks, the scene aroused the enthusiasm of 
the command to a shout of glad surprise.

The recollections of the discomforts of the night were banished by the 
glory of the morning as here displayed. Even the beauties of the Yosemite, 
of which I was so ardent an admirer, were for the moment eclipsed by this 
gorgeously grand and changing scene. The aurora that had preceded the 
rising sun was as many-hued, and if possible more glorious, than the most 
vivid borealis of the northern climes. But when the sun appeared, 
seemingly like a sudden flash, amidst the distant peaks, the climax was 
complete. My opportunities for examining the mountain scenery of the 
Sierra Nevada above the immediate vicinity of the Yosemite, were such as 
to only enable me to give a somewhat general description, but the views 
that I had during our explorations afforded me glimpses of the 
possibilities of sublime mountain scenery, such as I had never before 
comprehended, although familiar with the views afforded from some of the 
peaks of Mexico and of the Rocky Mountains. I doubt even if the Yellow 
Stone, supreme in some of its attractions, affords such varied and 
majestic beauty.

Looking back to the lovely little lake, where we had been encamped during 
the night, and watching Ten-ie-ya as he ascended to our group, I suggested 
to the Captain that we name the lake after the old chief, and call it 
"Lake 

[image caption: LAKE TEN-IE-YA, ONE OF THE YOSEMITE FOUNTAINS.]

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Ten-ie-ya." The Captain had fully recovered from his annoyance at the 
scene in camp, and readily consented to the name, but added that I had 
evidently mistaken my vocation.

Noticing my look of surprise, he jokingly said that if I had only studied 
divinity instead of medicine, I could have then fully gratified my passion 
for christening. This, of course, brought out a general guffaw, and 
thinking me annoyed, he said: "Gentlemen, I think the name an appropriate 
one, and shall use it in my report of the expedition. Beside this, it is 
rendering a kind of justice to perpetuate the name of the old chief."

When Ten-ie-ya reached the summit, he left his people and approached where 
the Captain and a few of us were halting. Although he had been snubbed by 
the Captain that morning, he now seemed to have forgotten it, and his 
rather rugged countenance glowed with healthful exercise in the sunlight. 
I had handled him rather roughly the day before, but as he now evidently 
wished to be friendly, I called him up to us, and told him that we had 
given his name to the lake and river. At first, he seemed unable to 
comprehend our purpose, and pointing to the group of Glistening peaks, 
near the head of the lake, said: "It already has a name; we call it Py-we-
ack." Upon my telling him that we had named it Ten-ie-ya, because it was 
upon the shores of the lake that we had found his people, who would never 
return to it to live, his countenance fell and he at once left our group 
and joined his own family circle. His countenance as he left us indicated 
that he thought the naming of the lake no equivalent for the loss of his 
territory.

I never at any time had real personal dislike for the old sachem. He had 
always been an object of study, and I sometimes found in him profitable 
entertainment. As he 

Page 238

moved off to hide his sorrow, I pitied him. As we resumed our march over 
the rough and billowy trail, I was more fully impressed with the 
appropriateness of the name for the beautiful lake. Here, probably, his 
people had built their last wigwams in their mountain home. From this lake 
we were leading the last remnant of his once dreaded tribe, to a territory 
from which it was designed they should never return as a people. My 
sympathies, confirmed in my own mind, a justness in thus perpetuating the 
name of Ten-ie-ya. The Indian name for this lake, branch and canyon, "Py-
we-ack" is, although a most appropriate one, now displaced by that of the 
old chief Ten-ie-ya. Of the signification of the name Ten-ie-ya, I am 
uncertain; but as pronounced by himself, I have no doubt of its being pure 
Indian.

The whole mountain region of the water-sheds of the Merced and Tuolumne 
rivers afford the most delightful views to be seen anywhere of mountains, 
cliffs, cascades and waterfalls, grand forests and mountain meadows, and 
the Soda Springs are yet destined to become a favorite summer resort. Mr. 
Muir has well said that the "upper Tuolumne valley is the widest, 
smoothest, most serenely spacious, and in every way the most delightful 
summer pleasure park in all the High Sierras."

Now that it has become a part of the new National Park surrounding the old 
grant (see new map), and good trails reach it, wagon roads will soon be 
extended into the very "heart of the Sierras"

We reached our camp in the valley without accident. Captain Boling at once 
gave orders to make preparations for our return to the Fresno. The next 
day we broke camp and moved down to the lower end of the valley near where 
we camped on the first night of our discovery, near the little meadow at 
the foot of the Mariposa Trail.

Page 239

At sunrise the next morning, or rather as the reflections on the cliffs 
indicated sunrise, we commenced our ascent of the steep trail. As I 
reached the height of land where the moving column would soon perhaps 
forever shut out from view the immortal "Rock Chief," my old sympathies 
returned, and leaving the command to pursue its heedless way, I climbed to 
my old perch where Savage had warned me of danger. As I looked back upon 
El Capitan, his bald forehead was cooling in the breeze that swept by me 
from the "Summer land" below, and his cheerful countenance reflected back 
the glory of the rising sun. Feeling my own inferiority while 
acknowledging the majesty of the scene, I looked back from Mt. Beatitude, 
and quoting from Byron, exclaimed: 

Yosemite!
"Thy vale(s) of evergreen, thy hills of snow
Proclaim thee Nature's varied favorite now."

We reached the Fresno without the loss of a captive, and as we turned them 
over to the agent, we were formally commended for the success of the 
expedition.



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CHAPTER XV.
The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite--General Description of the Valley 
and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights.

A MARKED and peculiar feature observed in the landscape of the Merced 
River slopes, while going to the Yosemite, especially on the Coultersville 
route, is the dense growth of the chamiso and the manzanita. These shrubs 
are found most abundant below the altitude of the growth of sugar-pine, 
upon dry, slaty ground; though a larger variety of manzanita, 
distinguishable by its larger blossoms and fruit, and its love of shade 
and moist clay-slate soil, may be found growing even among the sugar-pine. 
A peculiarity of this shrub is, that like the Madron˜a and some trees in 
Australia, it sheds a portion of its outer bark annually, leaving its 
branches beautifully bright and clean. The manzanita, when in full bloom, 
is one of the most beautiful of shrubs; its delicately tinted and fragrant 
blossoms filling the air with the perfume of an apple-orchard, while its 
rich evergreen leaves are only shed as others put forth. The name, 
manzanita, is Spanish, signifying little apple--the fruit in flavor, but 
more especially in smell, resembling the apple.

These chamiso and manzanita thickets are almost impenetrable to large 
animals, except the California lion and grizzly bear. At certain seasons 
of the year, during their trips to and from the High Sierras, when the 
berries are ripe, these coverts are the resort of such visitors. The 
grizzly comes to indulge his fondness for the little apples, and the 

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lion (how hath the mighty fallen!) to feed upon the wood-rats, mice and 
rabbits that he surprises in these furzy thickets. Occasionally a deer, as 
he comes along unconscious of danger, but too near the feline lair, is 
pounced upon by the lion, or perhaps a stray horse or mule may fall a 
victim; but in no case dare the lion attack his savage associate the bear, 
or any of his progeny.

In going to the Yosemite by way of the Mariposa route, after reaching the 
summit of the gap or pass in the "Black Ridge" or Chow-chilla mountain, 
over which the Mariposa route passes, to the South Fork of the Merced 
River, the yellow pine, the sugar pine, the Douglass fir and two other 
species of fir, are seen in all their glory. Here, too, is to be found the 
variety of white or yellow cedar ( Libo cedrus decurrens ), growing to a 
size not seen at a less altitude, unless perhaps on the north side of some 
spur from these mountains. If the ridge be followed to the right as far as 
the Big Trees, instead of descending the road to the South Fork, some very 
large pine, cedar and fir trees will be seen, in addition to the great 
attraction, the Sequoia.

At the time I first passed over this route there was but a dim Indian 
trail; now, a very good stage or wagon-road occupies it. As the descent to 
the South Fork is commenced, dogwood will be observed growing at the head 
of a little mountain brook that has its source in the pass, together with 
willows and other small growths of trees and shrubs. The "bush-
honeysuckle," when in bloom, is here especially beautiful; and several 
fragrant-blossomed shrubs will attract attention--the kalmia, especially. 
The forest on this route is equaled by few in California, and it extends 
to the Yosemite almost uninterrupted, except by the river and a few 
mountain meadows. The Coultersville route also affords like views of 
uninterrupted forest, even to the verge of the valley, but confined as the 
trail was when it was first 

Page 242

made to the narrow divide, one could not so well appreciate the beauty of 
the trees while looking down upon their tops as he would while riding 
among them. A few sequoias can be seen on this route, near Hazel Green and 
near Crane Flat.

Mr. Greeley says: "The Sierra Nevadas lack the glorious glaciers, the 
frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant cataracts of the Alps, but 
they far surpass them; they surpass any other mountains I ever saw, in 
wealth and grace of trees. Look down from almost any of their peaks, and 
your range of vision is filled, bounded, satisfied, by what might be 
termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, filling every upland valley, 
covering every hillside, crowning every peak but the highest with their 
unfading luxuriance.

"That I saw, during this day's travel, many hundreds of pines eight feet 
in diameter, with cedars at least six feet, I am confident; and there were 
miles of such and smaller trees of like genus, standing as thick as they 
could grow. Steep mountain sides, allowing these giants, to grow rank 
above rank, without obstructing each other's sunshine, seem peculiarly 
favorable to the production of these serviceable giants. But the summit 
meadows are peculiar in their heavy fringe of balsam fir of all sizes, 
from those barely one foot high to those hardly less than two hundred; 
their branches surrounding them in collars, their extremities gracefully 
bent down by weight of winter snows, making them here, I am confident, the 
most beautiful trees on earth. The dry promontories which separate these 
meadows are also covered with a species of spruce, which is only less 
graceful than the firs aforesaid. I never before enjoyed such a tree-feast 
as on this wearying, difficult ride."

Had Mr. Greeley taken more time, it would not have been so wearying to 
himself or mule. He rode sixty miles, on one mule the day he went to the 
Yosemite, but his 

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observations of what he saw are none the less just and valuable, though 
but few of the pine trees will measure eight feet in diameter. It is true, 
probably, that few forests in the United States are so dense and beautiful 
in variety as those seen on the old Mariposa route to the Yosemite by way 
of the meadows of the Pohono Summit. About these meadows the firs 
especially attract attention, from the uniform or geometrical regularity 
their branches assume. No landscape gardener could produce such effects as 
are here freely presented by the Great Architect of the universe for the 
admiration of his wayward children. Here in this region will also be found 
the California tamarack pine, and a variety of pine somewhat resembling 
the Norway pine, called Pinus Jeffreyi. There is still another pine, to be 
found only on the highest ridges and mountains, that may be said to mark 
the limit of arbol vegetation; this dwarf is known as pinus albicaulis, 
and could it but adapt itself to a lower altitude, and retain its dense 
and tangled appearance, it would make good hedge-rows.

Professor Whitney speaks of still another one of the pine family, growing 
about the head of King's and Kern Rivers, which he calls pinus aristata, 
and says it only grows on those highest peaks of the Sierras, although it 
is also found in the Rocky Mountains. Of the more noticeable undergrowth 
of these mountain forests and their borders, besides grasses, sedges, 
ferns, mosses, lichens, and various plants that require a better knowledge 
of botany than I possess to describe properly, may be mentioned the 
California lilac and dogwood, the latter of which is frequently seen 
growing along the mountain streams, and in the Yosemite. It grows in 
conjunction with alder, willow, poplar, or balm of Gilead, and a species 
of buckthorn. In isolated patches the Indian arrow-wood is found. This 
wood is almost without pith, and warps but little in drying. For these 
qualities and the 

Page 244

uniformity of its growth, it was especially esteemed for arrow-shafts; 
although sprouts from other shrubs and trees were also used.

It will have been observed, while going to the Yosemite, that the chimaso, 
white-oak and digger-pine are upon the southern slopes, while the thickets 
of mountain-ash, shrub or Oregon maple, and shrub live-oak, chinquepin and 
trailing blue and white ceanothus and snow plant are found upon the north 
side of the ridges, except when found at a greater altitude than is usual 
for their growth. On descending into the Yosemite, the visitor will at 
once notice and welcome the variety of foliage.

Upon the highest lands grow pine, fir, cedar, spruce, oak and shrubs. In 
the meadows and upon open ground, according to the richness of the soil 
and moisture, will be seen flowers and flowering shrubs of great 
brilliancy and variety.

The whole valley had the appearance of park-like grounds, with trees, 
shrubbery, flowers and lawns. The larger trees, pines, firs, etc., are of 
smaller growth than are usually found on the mountain slopes and tables. 
Still, some are of fair dimensions, rising probably to the height of one 
hundred and fifty feet or more. One large pine, growing in an alcove upon 
the wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,--apparently without soil--is quite 
remarkable. The balm of gilead, alder, dogwood, willow and buck-thorn, 
lend an agreeable variety to the scenery along the river. Their familiar 
appearance seem, like old friends, to welcome the eastern visitor to this 
strange and remarkable locality. The black-oak is quite abundant in the 
valley and upon the slopes below. It was the source of supply of acorns 
used by the Yosemites as food, and as an article of traffic with their 
less favored neighbors east of the Sierras.

Along the river banks and bordering the meadows are 

Page 245

found the wild rose, and where the soil is rich, dry and mellow, the wild 
sunflower grows luxuriantly. Of wild fruits, the red raspberry and 
strawberry are the only ones worthy of mention, and these are only found 
in limited quantities. A thornless red raspberry grows upon the mountains, 
but its blossoms are apt to be nipped by frosts and the plant is not a 
prolific bearer.

The meadows of the valley are generally moist, and in the springtime 
boggy. Later in the season they become firmer, and some parts of them 
where not in possession of sedges, afford an abundant growth of "wild 
Timothy;" blue joint, Canada red-top and clover. In addition to these 
nutritious meadow-grasses, there is growing on the coarse granite, sandy 
land, a hard, tough wire bunch grass unfit for grazing except when quite 
young. This grass is highly prized by the Indians for making baskets and 
small mats. Its black seeds were pulverized and used as food, by being 
converted into mush, or sometimes it was mixed with acorn meal and was 
then made into a kind of gruel. The common "brake" and many beautiful 
species of rock ferns and mosses are quite abundant in the shady parts of 
the valley, and in the canyons, and more especially are they found growing 
within the influence of the cool, moist air near the falls. Growing in the 
warm sunlight below El Capitan, may be seen plants common among the foot 
hills and slaty mountains. Of these plants, the manzanita, the bahia 
confertiflora and the California poppy are the most conspicuous.

The climatic and geologic or local influences upon vegetation in this part 
of California, is so remarkable as to continually claim the notice of the 
tourist, and induce the study of the botanist. So peculiar are the 
influences of elevation, moisture, temperature and soil, that if these be 
stated, the flora may be determined with almost unerring certainty, and 
vice versa, if the flora be designated, the 

Page 246

rock's exposure and mineral character of the soil will be at once 
inferred. The extreme summer temperature of the valley rises but little 
over 80° Fahrenheit, during the day, while the nights are always cold 
enough to make sleeping comfortable under a pair of blankets.

Thus far in narrating the incidents connected with the discovery of the 
Yosemite, I have not been particularly definite in my descriptions of it. 
Unconsciously I have allowed myself to assume the position, that this 
remarkable locality was familiarly known to every one.

From the discovery of the valley to the present day, the wonders of this 
region of sublimity, have been a source of inspiration to visitors, but 
none have been able to describe it to the satisfaction of those who 
followed after them. The efforts that are still made to do so, are 
conclusive evidences that to the minds of visitors, their predecessors had 
failed to satisfactorily describe it to their comprehensions; and so it 
will probably continue, as long as time shall last, for where genius even, 
would be incompetent, egotism may still tread unharmed.

Realizing this, and feeling my own utter inability to convey to another 
mind any just conception of the impressions received upon first beholding 
the valley, I yet feel that a few details and figures should be given with 
this volume. Prof. J. D. Whitney in his "Yosemite Guide Book" says, in 
speaking of the history of the discovery and settlement of the Yosemite 
Valley: "The visit of the soldiers under Captain Boling led to no 
immediate results in this direction. Some stories told by them on their 
return, found their way into the newspapers; but it was not until four 
years later that so far as can be ascertained, any persons visited the 
valley for the purpose of examining its wonders, or as regular pleasure 
travelers. It is, indeed, surprising that soremarkable a locality should 
not sooner have become known; 

Page 247

one would suppose that accounts of its cliffs and waterfalls would have 
spread at once all over the country. Probably they did circulate about 
California, and were not believed but set down as "travelers' stories." 
Yet these first visitors seem to have been very moderate in their 
statements, for they spoke of the Yosemite Fall as being "more than a 
thousand feet high," thus cutting it down to less than half its real 
altitude."

At the time of our discovery, and after the subsequent lengthy visit under 
Captain Boling, our descriptions of it were received with doubt by the 
newspaper world, and with comparative indifference by the excited and 
overwrought public of the golden era. The press usually more than keeps 
pace with public opinion. Although height and depth were invariably under-
estimated by us, our statements were considered "too steep" even for the 
sensational correspondents, and were by them pronounced exaggerations. 
These autocrats of public opinion took the liberty to dwarf our estimates 
to dimensions more readily swallowed by their patrons.

I have made many visits to the Yosemite since "our" long sojourn in it in 
1851, and have since that time furnished many items for the press 
descriptive of that vicinity. My recollections of some of these will be 
given in another chapter. Although many years have rolled off the calendar 
of time since the occurrences related in these chapters, no material 
change has affected that locality. Human agency can not alter the general 
appearance of these stupendous cliffs and waterfalls.

The picturesque wildness of the valley has since our first visits b visits 
been to a certain degree toned down by the improvements of civilization. 
The regions among the foot-hills and mountains that serve as approaches to 
the valley, where we hunted for savages to make peace with our National 
Government, 

Page 248

now boasts of its ranchos and improvements. The obscure trails which we 
followed in our explorations, and on which we first entered, have long 
since been abandoned, or merged into roads or other trails used by the 
proprietors of the territory in the vicinity. The white man's civilized 
improvements have superseded them. Instead of the stormy bivouacs of our 
first visits, or the canvas of our longer stay, the visitor now has the 
accommodations of first class hotels with modern improvements. The march 
of civilization has laid low many of the lofty pines and shady oak trees 
that once softened the rough grandeur and wildness of the scenery. Stumps, 
bridges and ladders now mark the progress of improvements. These, however, 
only affect the ornamental appendages of the scenery--the perishable 
portion of it alone. The massive granite walls are invulnerable to modern 
ingenuity of adornment. The trail over which we approached the valley on 
our first visit was below the more modern trails, and its general course 
has now been appropriated by the stage road over which the tourist visits 
the Yosemite. The rocky slabs and stretches down which we then slid and 
scrambled, have since been graded and improved, so that the descent is 
made without difficulty.

The "Mariposa Trail" first approached the verge of the cliffs forming the 
south side of the valley, near what is known as "Mount Beatitude," or, as 
the first full view above has been designated, "Inspiration Point"; which 
is about 3,000 feet above the level of the valley. In a direct line from 
the commencement of the first descent, to where the trail reaches the 
valley, the distance is probably less than a mile, but by the trail, it is 
nearly four miles in a circuitous zigzag westerly course. The vertical 
descent of the trail in that distance is 2,973 feet.(*)

I have adopted the statistics of measurements given by Prof. Whitney in 
his "Yosemite Guide Book" as my 

(* A wagon road now enters upon a lower level.)

Page 249

standard, so as to be modernly correct. These statisties were from the 
State Geological Survey, and are scientifically reliable. From a point on 
this descending trail, my most impressive recollections of a general view 
were first obtained. My first sight of the Yosemite was suddenly and 
unexpectedly unfolded from its junction with the old Indian trail; the 
view was made complete by ascending to a granite table. The first object 
and the principal point of attraction to my astonished gaze was "El 
Capitan," although its immensity was far from comprehended, until I became 
familiar with the proportions of other prominent features of the valley. 
After passing it close to its base, on the next day, I made up my mind 
that it could not be less than 1,500 or 2,000 feet above the level of the 
valley.

Prof. Whitney in speaking of this object of grandeur and massivenes 
massiveness, says: "El Capitan is an immense block of granite, projecting 
squarely out into the valley, and presenting an almost vertical sharp 
edge, 3,300 feet in elevation. The sides or walls of the mass are bare, 
smooth, and entirely destitute of vegetation. It is almost impossible for 
the observer to comprehend the enormous dimensions of this rock, which in 
clear weather can be distinctly seen from the San Joaquin plains at a 
distance of fifty or sixty miles. Nothing, however, so helps to a 
realization of the magnitude of these masses about the Yosemite as 
climbing around and among them. Let the visitor begin to ascend the pile 
of debris which lies at the base of El Capitan, and he will soon find his 
ideas enlarged on the point in question. And yet these debris piles along 
the cliffs, and especially under El Capitan, are of insignificant size 
compared with the dimensions of the solid wall itself. They are hardly 
noticeable in taking a general view of the valley. El Capitan imposes on 
us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as if hewed from the mountain on 
purpose to stand as the type of eternal massiveness.

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"It is doubtful if any where in the world there is presented so squarely 
cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of rock." The foregoing is the most 
concise and best description of El Capitan I have ever seen, and yet, it 
cannot impart the ecstacy of reverence for the sublime one feels in its 
presence.

Another peculiarity of El Capitan, is one that belongs to headlands that 
are designated points-no-point; that is the apparent difficulty of passing 
them. While passing at a distance, the convenxity of the wall seems to 
remain immediately opposite the observer.

From the Mariposa trail as it descends, can be seen most of the prominent 
cliffs which form its massive side walls. This trail reaches the bottom of 
the valley near its lower extremity. Below this trail, it narrows to a 
rocky canyon, almost impassable except for the Merced river, which leaves 
the valley through this gorge. I shall again refer to this canyon in 
another chapter.

The valley is about six miles long and from half a mile to over a mile in 
width at the head of the valley proper. It is irregular in shape, but its 
general direction is nearly east towards its upper end. Its outlines will 
be better understood from a view of the accompanying map, which has been 
mostly copied from that of the State Geological Survey--Prof. Whitney's. 
The three canyons which open into the valley at its upper end, are so 
intimately connected with it that a general description will include them 
all, particularly the parts of them in close proximity to the valley. They 
will be specially described when reached.

The sides of the valley are walls of a grayish-white granite, which 
becomes a dazzling white in a clear sunlight. This intensity of reflection 
is, however, toned to a great extent by the varying haze which permeates 
the upper atmosphere of the valley for most of the time. This haze has 

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sometimes the appearance of a light cloud of blue smoke, with its borders 
fringed with a silvery vapor. At other times--during August and September--
the tint is enriched, and at sunrise and sunset for the valley the golden 
light seems to permeate the haze, and lend its charm to the gossamer film 
that shields the sight from the glare of the reflecting granite.

The walls on each side are in many places perpendicular, and are, from the 
level of the valley to the top of the cliffs, from 2,660 to 4,737 feet in 
height, or, as they are generally described, from half a mile to a mile in 
height. Prof. Whitney, however, says: "The valley is sunk almost a mile in 
perpendicular depth below the general level of the adjacent region." This 
is undoubtedly correct, for in his description, he says: "The Yosemite 
Valley is nearly in the center of the State, north and south, and just 
midway between the east and west bases of the Sierras; here a little over 
seventy miles wide."

Prof. Whitney's estimate of the depth of the valley must be literally 
correct, for the general slope of that region is toward the valley, except 
from the west, its lower end.

At the base of these cliffs is a comparatively small amount of debris, 
consisting of broken rocks which have fallen from above. A kind of soil 
has accumulated on this talus, which is generally covered with vegetation. 
Trees of considerable size--oaks, pines, firs, cedars, maples, bay and 
dwarf oak, and lesser shrubs, are frequent. Although this debris is 
scarcely observed in a general view, its height above the bottom of the 
valley is in many places from three hundred to five hundred feet next to 
the cliff, from which it slopes some distance into the valley. In a few 
places the bases of the cliffs appear as if exposed nearly to the level of 
the valley. The valley proper is generally level through its entire 
length. The actual slope given is "only thirty-five feet between the 

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junctions of the Ten-ie-ya Fork and the Bridal Veil Creek with the main 
river, four miles and a half in a straight line." The elevation of the 
valley above the sea level is 3,950 feet. The Merced River, which is about 
seventy feet wide in an ordinary stage of water, courses down through the 
middle canyon, meanders through the valley, being restrained or confined 
to near the centre of it by the sloping talus at its sides--the sloping 
debris piles occupying nearly one-half of the bottom of the valley.

Although the soil is principally of a sandy character, the marshy land 
subject to overflow, and some of the dry bottom land, have a deep, rich 
alluvial soil.

The two beautiful little meadows in the lower section of the valley, 
afford forage for animals. On the slope above, not far from the Pohono 
Falls, the Yosemities built their huts, as if unconscious of "The Spirit 
of the Evil Wind," near their habitations.

Not far from the foot of the descent of the Mariposa trail, the original 
trail branched; one trail continuing on up the south side of the valley, 
the other crossing the Merced toward El Capitan. Another original trail 
came up on the north side from the gorge below. A small foot-trail entered 
this from the northern summit of the Coultersville trail, but it was 
purposely left so obscure by the Indians, as to lead to the belief that it 
was impassable for horses. This trail was modernized, and is now known as 
the "Coultersville Trail." On angle of El Capitan is "Ribbon Falls." The 
cliff over which the water pours is nearly 3,000 feet high, but the 
perpendicular height of the fall is but little over a thousand feet. This 
fall is "a beauty" while it lasts, but it is as ephemeral as a spring 
shower, and this fact must have been known to the sponsors at the baptism.

Just above El Capitan are the Three Brothers, the highest peak of these 
rocks is 3,830 feet.

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Next above these is the Yosemite Fall. The verge of the cliff over which 
this fall begins its descent is 2,600 feet above the level of the valley. 
Prof. Whitney in describing this fall, says: "The fall is not in one 
perpendicular sheet. There is first a vertical descent of 1,500 feet, when 
the water strikes on what seems to be a projecting ledge; but which, in 
reality, is a shelf or recess, almost a third of a mile back from the 
front of the lower portion of the cliff. From here the water finds its 
way, in a series of cascades, down a descent equal to 626 feet 
perpendicular, and then gives one final plunge of about 400 feet on to a 
low talus of rocks at the base of the precipice." He also "estimates the 
size of the stream at the summit of the fall, at a medium stage of water, 
to be twenty feet in width and two feet in average depth." The upper 
portion of the full spread of its base is estimated to be a width of from 
one hundred to three hundred feet at high water. The wind gives this fall 
a vibratory motion; sometimes equal to the width of the column of water 
itself at the base of the perpendicular descent.

The ravine called Indian canyon is less than a mile above the Yosemite 
Fall; between the two, is the rocky peak called the "Lost Arrow," which, 
although not perpendicular, runs up boldly to a height of 3,030 feet above 
the level of the Merced.

The Indian name for the ravine called Indian canyon was Lehamite, and the 
cliff extending into the valley from the East side of the canyon is known 
as the "Arrow-wood Rocks." This grand wall extends almost at a right angle 
towards the East, and continues up the Ten-ie-ya canyon, forming the base 
of the North dome (To-co-ya) which rises to an elevation of 3,568 feet 
above the valley.

In the cliff which forms the base of this dome-shaped mass of rocks, are 
the "Royal Arches," an immense arched cavity evidently formed by portions 
of the cliff becoming 

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detached from some cause, and falling out in sections to the depth of 
seventy-five or one hundred feet from the face of the cliff. The top of 
the arch appears to be 1,200 feet or more above the valley. The extreme 
width of the cavity is about the same, or perhaps a little more than the 
height. Adjoining the "Royal Arches" on the East, is what is called the 
"Washington Column." This projecting rounded mass of rock, may be said to 
mark the boundary of the valvey proper and the Ten-ie-ya canyon, which 
here opens into the valley from a Northeasterly direction.

On the opposite side of Ten-ie-ya canyon is the Half Dome (Tis-sa-ack) the 
loftiest peak of the granite cliffs that form a part of the walls of the 
Yosemite Valley. Its height above the valley is 4,737 feet. On the side 
next to Ten-ie-ya canyon this cliff is perpendicular for more than 1,500 
feet from its summit, and then, the solid granite slopes at about an angle 
of 60 degrees to its base. The top of this mass of rock has the appearance 
of having been at one time a dome-shaped peak, now however, but half 
remains, that portion split off has by some agency, been carried away. At 
its Northerly base is Mirror Lake, and farther up the canyon is Mr. 
Watkins, Cloud's Rest, a cascade, and Lake Ten-ie-ya.

This brief outline of description includes the principal points of 
interest on the north side of the valley. From the lower part of the 
valley, the first prominent object reached on the south side, is the 
Bridal Veil Fall. The water of the "Po-ho-no" here falls over a cliff from 
a perpendicular height of 630 feet, onto a sloping pile of debris, about 
300 feet above the level of the Merced, in reaching which it rushes down 
the slope among the rocks in cascades and branching outlets. The total 
height of the cliff over which the water falls is about 900 feet. The 
trees on the slop below conceal the lower part of the fall, so that at a 
distance it appears as if reaching to the bottom of the 

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valley. Just above the Bridal Veil are what have been termed the "Three 
Graces," and not far above these, are the peculiar appearing pinnacles of 
rocks to which the names of Cathedral Rock and Cathedral Spires have been 
given. Cathedral Rock is 2,660 feet high. The spires just beyond are about 
the same height from the level of the valley. They are pointed columns of 
granite 500 feet high, attached at their base with the cliff forming the 
side of the valley. The next prominent object on the south side is 
Sentinel Rock, 3,043 feet high. This pinnacle of granite is on the 
extremity of a point of rocks extending into the valley. For a thousand 
feet or more, it has the form of an obelisk, below which it forms a part 
of the projecting rocks. The next object is the massive point projecting 
into the valley, and which here forms an angle towards the south; it is 
called Glacier Point. This has an elevation of 3,200 feet above the 
valley. From this point some of the finest views of the vicinity can be 
seen. Behind Glacier Point and Sentinel Rock, appearing as if these cliffs 
formed a part of its base, is the South Dome, known also as the Sentinal 
Dome. The name of "South Dome" was originally given to this dome-shaped 
mass of granite by our battalion. It is 4,150 feet above the valley. The 
South or Glacier canyon is just above Glacier Point. At the head of this 
rocky impassable canyon, is the beautiful fall I have named "Glacier 
Fall." This fall is about 600 feet high. The middle canyon, Yanopah, opens 
from the east. The Merced river comes down this canyon into the valley.

In a distance of two miles, a descent from over 2,000 feet of 
perpendicular height is made. This includes the Vernal and Nevada Falls. 
The Vernal is about 350 feet high; the Nevada something over 600 feet. The 
rapids between the falls have a descent of about 300 feet. The Vernal and 
Nevada are about one mile apart. On the north side of the 

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middle canyon is the Cap of Liberty, rising to a height of 2,000 feet 
above its base near the foot of the Nevada Fall. This stupendous mass of 
rock stands nearly perpendicular on all sides but one. Farther up, on the 
south side of Tenie-ya canyon, is Clouds Rest, which is 6,000 feet above 
the bottom of the Yosemite. Between Glacier canyon and Yanopah is the 
Noble Starr King. The immense cliff forming the extreme westerly point of 
the divide between Tenie-ya canyon and the Yanopah branch, has had various 
names affixed to it, none of which seems to have been satisfactory. It was 
between the lower face of this wall and Glacier Point that Capt. Boling 
laid off and had cleared for use his racecourse; and hence, in speaking of 
the locality, it was sometimes designated as Boling's Point, as the 
starting place for the race.