Discovery of the Yosemite - Chapters VI-IX



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CHAPTER VI.
Out of Provisions--A hurried Move--Mills where Indians take Their Grists, 
and Pots in which they Boil their Food--Advance Movement of Captain Dill--
A Hungry Squad--Enjoyment--Neglect of Duty--Escape of Indians--Following 
their Trail--A Sorrowful Captain--A Mystery made Clear--Duplicity of the 
Chow-chillas--Vow-chester's Good-will Offering--Return of the Fugitives--
Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter.

ON our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the officer in charge 
reported: "We are about out of grub." This was a satisfactory cause for a 
hurried movement; for a short allowance had more terrors for men with our 
appetites than severe duties; and most of us had already learned that, 
even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs would refuse the 
hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible for them to share with 
us from their own scanty stores. The Major's experience prompted him at 
once to give the order to break camp and move on for the camp on the 
Fresno.

Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march; for the Indians 
could not be hurried. Although their cookery was of the most primitive 
character, we were very much delayed by the time consumed in preparing 
their food.

While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our movements to the 
capacities or inclinations of the women and children. Captain Dill, 
therefore, with his company was sent on ahead from the crossing of the 
South Fork, they leaving with us what food they could spare. When 

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Dill reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred "captives" joined 
him. These Indians voluntarily surrendered to Captain Dill's company, 
which at once hurried them on, and they reached the commissioners at the 
Fresno.

Captain Boling's company and Major Savage remained with the "Grand
Caravan," keeping out scouts and hunters to secure such game as might be 
found to supply ourselves with food. We had no anxiety for the safety or 
security of our "captives;" our own subsistence was the important 
consideration; for the first night out from Bishop's camp left us but 
scanty stores for breakfast. Our halting places were selected from the old 
Indian camping grounds, which were supplied with hoyas (holes or mortars). 
These permanent mortars were in the bed-rock, or in large detached rocks 
that had fallen from the cliffs or mountains. These "hoyas" had been 
formed and used by past generations. They were frequent on our route, many 
of them had long been abandoned; as there was no indications of recent 
uses having been made of them. From their numbers it was believed that the 
Indians had once been much more numerous than at that date.

By means of the stone pestles with which they were provided, the squaws 
used these primitive mills to reduce their acorns and grass seeds to flour 
or meal. While the grists were being ground, others built the fires on 
which stones were heated.

When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets nearly filled with 
water; this is continued until the water boils. The stones are then 
removed and the acorn meal, or a cold mixture of it, is stirred in until 
thin gruel is made; the hot stones are again plunged into the liquid mass 
and and again removed. When sufficiently cooked, this "Atola" or porridge, 
was poured into plates or moulds of sand, prepared for that purpose. 
During the process of cooling, the 

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excess of water leaches off through the sand, leaving the woody fibre 
tannin and unappropriated coarse meal in distinctive strata; the edible 
portion being so defined as to be easily separated from the refuse and 
sand. This preparation was highly prized by them, and contrary to 
preconceived ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured me 
that the bitter acorns were the best when cooked. This compound of acorn 
meal resembles corn starch blanc mange in color, but is more dense in 
consistency. Although it was free from grit, and comparatively clean, none 
of us were able to eat it, and we were quite hungry. From this, I was led 
to conclude that to relish this Indian staple, the taste must be acquired 
while very young.

Old Ten-ie-ya's four wives, and other squaws, were disposed to be quite 
hospitable when they learned that our supply of provisions was exhausted. 
None of the command, however, ventured to sample their acorn-jellies, 
grass-seed much, roasted grasshoppers, and their other delicacies; nothing 
was accepted but the Pin˜on pine nuts, which were generally devoured with 
a relish and a regret for the scarcity.

Certain species of worms, the larvæ of ants and some other insects, common 
mushrooms and truffles, or wood-mushrooms, are prized by the Indian 
epicure, as are eels shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, etc., by 
his white civilized brother. Are we really but creatures of education?

The baskets used by the Indians for boiling their food and other purposes, 
as has been before stated, are made of a tough mountain bunch-grass, 
nearly as hard and as strong as wire, and almost as durable. So closely 
woven are they, that but little if any water can escape from them. They 
are made wholly impervious with a resinous compound resembling the 
vulcanized rubber used by dentists. This 

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composition does not appear to be in the least affected by hot water. The 
same substance, in appearance at least, is used by Mountain Indians in 
attaching sinews to bows, and feathers and barbs to arrows.

I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, but could only learn 
that the resin was procured from small trees or shrubs, and that some 
substance (probably mineral) was mixed with it, the latter to resist the 
action of heat and moisture. I made a shrewd guess that pulverized lava 
and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was used, but for some 
cause I was left in ignorance. The Indians, like all ignorant persons, 
ascribe remarkable virtues to very simple acts and to inert remedies. Upon 
one occasion a doctor was extolling the virtues of a certain root, 
ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried in vain to induce him to 
tell me the name of the root. He stated that the secret was an heir-loom, 
and if told, the curative power of the plant would disappear; but he 
kindly gave me some as a preventive of some imaginary ill, when lo! I 
discovered the famous remedy to be the cowslip.

After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we halted near sundown 
within a few miles of the Commissioner's headquarters, and went into camp 
for the night. The Indians came straggling in at will from their hunts on 
the way, their trophies of skill with their bows being the big California 
squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail. Our more expert white hunters had 
occasionally brought in venison for our use. We had ceased to keep a very 
effective guard over our "captives;" none seemed necessary, as all 
appeared contented and satisfied, almost joyous, as we neared their 
destination on the Fresno.

The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these Indians were 
concerned, as ended. We had voted the peace policy a veritable success. We 
had discussed the matter in 

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camp, and contrasted the lack of spirit exhibited by these people with 
what we knew of the warlike character of the Indians of Texas and of the 
Northwestern plains. In these comparisons, respect for our captives was 
lost in contempt. "The noble red man" was not here represented. The only 
ones of the Pacific Slope, excepting the Navahoes, Pimas and Maricopahs, 
that bear any comparison with the Eastern tribes for intelligence and 
bravery, are the You-mahs of the Colorado river, the Modocs, and some of 
the Rogue and Columbia river tribes, but none of these really equal the 
Sioux and some other Eastern tribes.

Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives during the preceding 
night, except from the guard about our own camp; from a supposition that 
our services could well be spared. Application was therefore made by a few 
of us, for permission to accompany the Major, who had determined to go on 
to the Fresno head-quarters. When consent was given, the wish was so 
generally expressed, that Captain Boling with nine men to act as camp 
guard, volunteered to remain, if Major Savage would allow the hungry 
"boys" to ride with him. The Major finally assented to the proposition, 
saying: "I do not suppose the Indians can be driven off, or be induced to 
leave until they have had the feast I promised them; besides, they will 
want to see some of the commissioner's finery. I have been delighting 
their imaginations with descriptions of the presents in store for them."

When the order was passed for the hungry squad to fall in, we mounted with 
grateful feelings towards Captain Boling, and the "boys" declared that the 
Major was a trump, for his consideration of our need. With the prospect of 
a good "square" meal, and the hope of a genial "smile" from our popular 
commissary, the time soon passed, and the distance seemed shortened, for 
we entered the Fresno camp before our anticipations were cloyed. Head-
quarters was 

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well supplied with all needful comforts, and was not totally deficient in 
luxuries. Our Quarter-Master and Commissary was active in his duties, and 
as some good woman say of their husbands, "He was a good provider." We had 
no reason to complain of our reception; our urgent requirements were 
cheerfully met. The fullness of our entertainment did not prevent a good 
night's rest, nor interfere with the comfortable breakfast which we 
enjoyed. While taking coffee, the self denial of Captain Boling and his 
volunteer guard was not forgotten. Arrangements were made to furnish the 
best edible and potable stores, that could be secured from our 
conscientious and prudent commissary. We were determined to give them a 
glorious reception; but--the Captain did not bring in his captives! Major 
Savage sent out a small detachment to ascertain the cause of the delay. 
This party filled their haversacks with comforts for the "Indian guard." 
After some hours of delay, the Major became anxious to hear from Captain 
Boling, and began to be suspicious that something more serious than the 
loss of his animals, was the cause of not sending in a messenger, and he 
ordered out another detachment large enough to meet any supposed 
emergency. Not far from camp, they met the Captain and his nine men (the " 
Indian guard ") and one Indian, with the relief party first sent out. Our 
jovial Captain rode into "Head-quarters" looking more crest fallen than he 
had ever been seen before. When asked by the Major where he had left the 
Indians, he blushed like a coy maiden and said: "They have all gone to the 
mountains, but the one I have with me."

After Captain Boling had made his report to the Major, and made all 
explanations to the commissioners, and when he had refreshed himself with 
an extra ration or two of the potable liquid, that by special stipulation 
had been reserved for the "Indian Guard," something of his old humor 

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returned to him, and he gave us the details of his annoyances by the 
breach of trust on the part of "our prisoners."

The Captain said: "Soon after you left us last night, one of my men, who 
was out hunting when we camped, came in with a deer he had killed just at 
the dusk of the evening. From this we made a hearty supper, and allowed 
the youth who had helped to bring in the deer to share in the meat. The 
Indian cooked the part given to him at our fire, and ate with the avidity 
of a famished wolf. This excited comment, and anecdotes followed of the 
enormous appetites displayed by some of them. The question was then 
raised, 'how much can this Indian eat at one meal?' I suggested that a 
fair trial could not be had with only one deer. Our hunter said he would 
give him a preliminary trial, and when deer were plenty we could then test 
his full capacity, if he should prove a safe one to bet on. He then cut 
such pieces as we thought would suffice for our breakfast, and, with my 
approval, gave the remainder to his boy, who was anxiously watching his 
movements. I consented to this arrangement, not as a test of his capacity, 
for I had often seen a hungry Indian eat, but as a reward for his services 
in bringing in the deer on his shoulders. He readily re-commenced his 
supper, and continued to feast until every bone was cracked and picked. 
When the last morsel of the venison had disappeared he commenced a doleful 
sing-song, 'Way-ah-we-ha-ha, Wah-ah-we-ha-ha' to some unknown deity, or, 
if I was to judge from my ear of the music, it must have been his prayer 
to the devil, for I have heard that it is a part of their worship. His 
song was soon echoed from the camp where all seemed contentment. After 
consoling himself in this manner for some time he fell asleep at our fire.

"The performance being over, I told my men to take their sleep and I would 
watch, as I was not sleepy; if I wanted 

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them I would call them. I then thought, as Major Savage had declared, the 
Indians could scarcely be driven off, until they had had their feast and 
the presents they expected to have given them. I sat by the fire for a 
long time cogitating on past events and future prospects, when thinking it 
useless to require the men to stand guard, I told them to sleep. Moving 
about and seeing nothing but the usual appearance, I decided it to be 
unneccessary to exercise any further vigilance, and told one of the men, 
who was partially aroused by my movements, and who offered to get up and 
stand guard, that he had better lie still and sleep. Toward morning I took 
another round, and finding the Indian camp wrapped in apparently profound 
slumber, I concluded to take a little sleep myself, until daylight. This 
now seems unaccountable to me, for I am extremely cautious in my habits. 
Such a breach of military discipline would have subjected one of my men to 
a court-martial. I confess myself guilty of neglect of duty; I should have 
taken nothing for granted.

"No one can imagine my surprise and mortification when I was called and 
told that the Indian camp was entirely deserted, and that none were to be 
seen except the one asleep by our camp fire. My indifference to placing a 
guard over the Indian camp will probably always be a mystery to me, but it 
most likely saved our lives, for if we had attempted to restrain them, and 
you know us well enough to believe we would not have let them off without 
a fight; they would probably have pretty well used us up. As it was, we 
did not give them up without an effort. We saddled our horses and started 
in chase, thinking that as while with us, their women and children would 
retard their progress, and that we would soon overtake them. We took the 
young brave with us, who had slept by our fire. He knew nothing of the 
departure of his people, and was very much alarmed, 

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as he expected we would at once kill him. I tried to make him useful in 
following their trail; he by signs, gave me to understand he did not know 
where they had gone, and seemed unwilling to take the trail when I pointed 
it out to him. He evidently meant to escape the first opportunity. I kept 
him near me and treated him kindly, but gave him to understand I should 
shoot him if he tried to leave me.

"We pursued until the trail showed that they had scattered in every 
direction in the brushy ravines and on the rocky side of a mountain 
covered with undergrowth, where we could not follow them with our animals. 
Chagrined and disgusted with myself for my negligence, and my inability to 
recover any part of my charge, and considering farther pursuit useless, we 
turned about and took the trail to head-quarters with our one captive."

Major Savage took the youngster under his charge, and flattered him by his 
conversations and kindly treatment. The Commissioners lionized him 
somewhat; he was gaily clothed and ornamented, loaded with presents for 
his own family relations, and was given his liberty and permitted to leave 
camp at his leisure, and thus departed the last of the "grand caravan" of 
some three hundred and fifty "captives," men, women and children, which we 
had collected and escorted from the mountains.

The sight of the one hundred brought to them by Captain Dill, and his 
report that we were coming with about three hundred and fifty more, 
aroused sanguine hopes in the commission that the war was over, and that 
their plans had been successful. "Now that the prisoners have fled," we 
asked, "What will be done?"

To a military man, this lack of discipline and precaution--through which 
the Indians escaped--will seem unpardonable; and an officer who, like our 
Captain, should leave his camp unguarded, under any circumstances, would 
be 

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deemed disgracefully incompetent. In palliation of these facts, it may not 
occur to the rigid disciplinarian that Captain John Boling and the men 
under him--or the most of them, had not had the advantages of army drill 
and discipline. The courage of these mountain-men in times of danger was 
undoubted; their caution was more apt to be displayed in times of danger 
to others, than when they themselves were imperiled.

In this case Captain Boling was not apprehensive of danger to those under 
his charge. His excessive good nature and good will toward his men 
prompted him to allow, even to command them, to take the sleep and rest 
that an irregular diet, and the labor of hunting while on the march, had 
seemed to require. No one had a keener sense of his error than himself. 
The whole command sympathized with him--notwithstanding the ludicrous 
aspect of the affair--their finer feelings were aroused by his extreme 
regrets. They determined that if opportunities offered, he should have 
their united aid to wipe out this stigma. Major Savage was deceived by the 
child-like simplicity with which the Indians had been talking to him of 
the feast expected, and of the presents they would soon receive from the 
commissioners. He did not suppose it possible that they would make an 
attempt to escape, or such a number would not have been left with so small 
a guard. We had men with us who knew what discipline was, who had been 
trained to obey orders without hesitation. Men who had fought under Col. 
Jack Hays, Majors Ben McCullough and Mike Chevallia, both in Indian and 
Mexican warfare, and they considered themselves well posted. Even these 
men were mistaken in their opinions. The sudden disappearance of the 
Indians, was as much a surprise to them as to our officers.

With a view to solving this mystery Vow-ches-ter was 

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sent for from his camp near by, where all the treaty tribes were 
congregated, and when questioned the Chief said that during the night Chow-
chilla runners had been in the camp, and to him in person with their 
mouths filled with lies; they had probably gone to the camp of those who 
were coming in, and they were induced to leave. Evidently he felt assured 
of the fact; but until questioned, his caution, Indian-like, kept him 
silent. Vow-ches-ter's sincerity and desire for peace was no longer 
doubted. Those who were suspicious of his friendship before were silenced, 
if not convinced, when he volunteered to go out and bring in such of the 
fugitives as he could convince of the good will of the commissioners. The 
young Indian had not yet left the camp, but was found relating his 
adventures and good fortune, and was directed to accompany Vow-ches-ter on 
his mission of good will. The Chief was instructed to give positive 
assurances of protection against hostilities, if any were threatened by 
the Chow-chillas. He was also instructed to dispatch runners to aid his 
efforts, and was told to notify all that the commissioners would not 
remain to be trifled with; if they wished peace they must come in at once. 
That if the commissioners should go away, which they soon would do on 
their way south, no further efforts for peace would be made. That the 
mountain men and soldiers of the whites were angry, and would no longer 
take their word for peace, but would punish them and destroy their 
supplies. After a few days Vow-ches-ter came back with about one hundred 
of the runaways; these were followed by others, until ultimately, nearly 
all came back except Ten-ie-ya and his people. All then in camp expressed 
a readiness to meet for a grand council and treaty.

The reasons given by those who returned for their flight, were that just 
before daylight on the morning of their departure Chow-chilla runners (as 
had been surmised by 

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Vow-ches-ter) came to their camp with the report that they were being 
taken to the plains, where they would all be killed in order to evade the 
promises to pay for their lands, and for revenge.

In reply to the statements that they had been treated by the whites as 
friends, the Chow-chillas answered sneeringly that the whites were not 
fools to forgive them for killing their friends and relatives, and taking 
their property, and said their scouts had seen a large mounted force that 
was gathering in the foot-hills and on the plains, who would ride over 
them if they ventured into the open ground of the reservation, or 
encampment at the plains. This caused great alarm. They expected 
destruction from the whites, and in the excitement caused by the Chow-
chillas, threatened to kill Captain Boling and his men, and for that 
purpose reconnoitered the Captain's camp. The Chow-chillas dissuaded them 
from the attempt, saying: "The white men always sleep on their guns, and 
they will alarm the white soldiers below by their firing, and bring upon 
you a mounted force before you could reach a place of safety."

The young fellow that was asleep in Boling's camp was not missed until on 
the march; his appearance among them gaily clothed, after being kindly 
treated, very much aided Vow-ches-ter in his statement of the object of 
the council and treaty to be held. The runaways told the commissioners 
that they felt very foolish, and were ashamed that they had been so 
readily deceived; they also expressed a wish that we would punish the Chow-
chillas, for they had caused all the trouble. The reception they received 
soon satisfied them that they had nothing to fear. They were given food 
and clothing, and their good fortune was made known to other bands, and 
soon all of the tribes in the vicinity made treaties or sent messengers to 
express their willingness to do so, excepting the Chow-chillas and 
Yosemites. Even 

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Ten-ie-ya was reported to have ventured into the Indian quarter, but 
taking a look at the gaudy colored handkerchiefs and shirts offered him in 
lieu of his ancient and well-worn guernsey that he habitually wore, he 
scoffingly refused the offers. Turning towards his valley home, he 
sorrowfully departed; his feelings apparently irritated by the evidences 
of vanity he saw in the gaudy apparel and weak contentment of those he was 
leaving behind him. Major Savage, who it was supposed would be the Indian 
agent at the end of the war, was absent at the time of Ten-ie-ya's visit, 
but "the farmer" showed the old chief all proper respect, and had 
endeavored to induce him to await the Major's return, but failed.

Major Savage, though still in command of the battalion, now devoted most 
of his time to the commissioners; and the energy with which our campaigns 
had opened, seemed to be somewhat abating. The business connected with the 
treaties was transacted principally through his interpretation, though at 
times other interpreters were employed. The mission interpreters only 
translated the communications made in the Indian dialects into Spanish; 
these were then rendered into English by Spanish interpreters employed by 
the commission.

A pretty strong detail of men was now placed on duty at head-quarters on 
the Fresno, principally drawn from Captain Dill's Company. Adjutant Lewis 
had really no duties in the field, nor had he any taste or admiration for 
the snowy mountains-- on foot. His reports were written up at head-
quarters, as occasion required, and often long after the events had 
transpired to which they related. I was an amused observer upon one 
occasion, of Major Savage's method of making out an official report, 
Adjutant Lewis virtually acting only as an amanuensis.



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CHAPTER VII.
Campaign against the Chow-chillas--The Favorite Hunting Ground--A Deer 
Hunt and a Bear Chase --An Accident and an Alarm--A Torchlight Pow-wow--
Indians Discovered--Captain Boling's Speech--Crossing of the San Joaquin--
A Line of Battle, its Disappearance--Capture of Indian Village--Jose Rey's 
Funeral-pyre--Following the Trail--A Dilemma--Sentiment and Applause--
Returning to Camp--Narrow Escape of Captain Boling.

MAJOR SAVAGE now advised a vigorous campaign against the Chow-chillas. The 
stampeding of our captives was one of the incentives for this movement; or 
at least, it was for this reason that Captain Boling and his company most 
zealously advocated prompt action. The commissioners approved of the plan, 
and decided that as the meddlesome interference of these Indians prevented 
other bands from coming in, it was necessary, if a peace policy was to be 
maintained with other tribes, that this one be made to feel the power they 
were opposing; and that an expedition of sufficient strength to subdue 
them, should be ordered immediately to commence operations against them. 
Accordingly, a force composed of B. and C. companies, Boling's and Dill's 
numbering about one hundred men, under command of Major Savage, started 
for the San Joaquin River. The route selected was by way of "Coarse Gold 
Gulch," to the head waters of the Fresno, and thence to the North Fork of 
the San Joaquin.

The object in taking this circuitous route, was to sweep the territory of 
any scattered bands that might infest it. 

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We made our first camp on the waters of "Coarse Gold Gulch," in order to 
allow the scouts time to explore in advance of the command. No incident 
occurred here to claim especial notice, but in the morning, while passing 
them, I made a hasty examination of one of the "Figured Rocks" to the left 
of the trail.

I saw but little of interest, for at the time, I doubted the antiquity of 
the figures. Subsequently, in conversation with Major Savage he said that 
the figures had probably been traced by ancient Indians, as the present 
tribes had no knowledge of the representations. I afterwards asked Sandino 
and other Mission Indians concerning them, but none could give me any 
information. The scouts sent out were instructed to rendezvous near a 
double fall on the north fork of the San Joaquin in a little valley 
through which the trail led connecting with that of the north fork, as 
grass would there be found abundant.

Major Savage was familiar with most of the permanent trails in this 
region, as he had traversed it in his former prospecting tours. As we 
entered the valley selected for our camping place, a flock of sand-hill 
cranes rose from it with their usual persistent yells; and from this 
incident, their name was affixed to the valley, and is the name by which 
it is now known.

The scouts, who were watching on the trail below, soon discovered and 
joined us. "It is a little early for camping," the Major said; "but at 
this season, good grass can only be found in the mountains in certain 
localities. Here there is an abundance, and soap root enough to wash a 
regiment."

We fixed our camp on the West side of the little valley, about half a mile 
from the double falls. These falls had nothing peculiarly attractive, 
except as a designated point for a rendezvous.

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The stream above the falls was narrow and very rapid, but below, it ran 
placidly for some distance through rich meadow land. The singularity of 
the fall was in its being double; the upper one only three or four feet, 
and the lower one, which was but a step below, about ten or twelve feet. 
In my examination of the locality, I was impressed with the convenience 
with which such a water-power could be utilized for mechanical purposes, 
if the supply of water would but prove a permanent one.

From this camp, new scouts were sent out in search of Indians and their 
trails; while a few of us had permission to hunt within a mile of camp. 
While picketing our animals, I observed the flock of sand-hill cranes 
again settling down some way above us, and started with Wm. Hays to get a 
shot at them. We were not successful in getting within range; having been 
so recently alarmed, they were suspiciously on the look out, and scenting 
our approach, they left the valley. Turning to the eastward, we were about 
entering a small ravine leading to the wooded ridge on the Northwest side 
of the Fork, when we discovered two deer ascending the slope, and with 
evident intention of passing through the depression in the ridge before us.

They were looking back on their trail, assurance enough that we had not 
been seen. We hurriedly crept up the ravine to head them off, and waited 
for their approach. Hays became nervous, and as he caught a glimpse of the 
leader, he hastily said, "Here they come--both of them--I'll take the 
buck!" Assenting to his arrangement, we both fired as they rose in full 
view. The doe fell almost in her tracks. The buck made a bound or two up 
the ridge and disappeared. While loading our rifles Hays exclaimed, as if 
in disgust, "A miss, by jingoes! that's a fact." I replied, not so, old 
fellow, you hit him hard; he switched his tail desperately; you will see 
him again." We found him 

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dead in the head of the next ravine, but a few rods off. Hanging up our 
game to secure it until our return with horses, we started along the slope 
of the ridge toward camp. Hays was in advance, stopping suddenly, he 
pointed to some immense tracks of grizzlies, which in the soft, yielding 
soil appeared like the foot prints of huge elephants, and then hastily 
examining his rifle and putting a loose ball in his mouth (we had no fixed 
ammunition in those days, except the old paper cartridges), started on the 
tracks. At first I was amused at his excited, silent preparations and 
rapid step, and passively accompanied him. When we had reached a dense 
under-growth, into which the trail led, and which he was about to enter, I 
halted and said: "I have followed this trail as far as I design to go. 
Hays, it is madness for us to follow grizzlies into such a place as that." 
Hays turned, came back, and said in an excited manner, "I didn't suppose 
you would show the white feather with a good rifle in your hands; Chandler 
gives you a different character. You don't mean to say you are afraid to 
go in there with me; we'll get one or two, sure.

I was at first inclined to be angry, but replied, "Hays, I am much obliged 
to you for the good opinion you have had of me, but I know what grizzlies 
are. I am afraid of grizzlies unless I have every advantage of them; and 
don't think it would be any proof of courage to follow them in there." 
Hays reached out his hand as he said: "If that is your corner stake, we 
will go back to camp." We shook hands, and that question was settled 
between us. Afterwards Hays told of his experience among Polar bears, and 
I rehearsed some of mine among cinnamon and grizzly bears, and he replied 
that after all he thought "we had acted wisely in letting the latter 
remain undisturbed. When in the brush they seemed to know their advantage, 
and were more likely to attack, whereas at other times, they would 

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get out of your way, if they could." I replied by asking: "Since you know 
their nature so well, why did you want to follow them into the brush?" He 
retorted, "Simply because I was excited and reckless, like many another 
man."

Taking the back trail, we soon reached camp, and with our horses brought 
in the game before dark. While entering camp, several of our men rushed by 
with their rifles. Looking back across the open valley on our own trail, I 
saw a man running toward us as if his life depended on his speed. His long 
hair was fairly streaming behind as he rushed breathless into camp, 
without hat, shoes or gun. When first seen, the "boys" supposed the Chow-
chillas were after him, but no pursuers appeared in sight. As soon as he 
was able to talk, he reported that he had left the squad of hunters he had 
gone out with, and was moving along the edge of a thicket on his way to 
camp, when he struck the trail of three grizzlies. Having no desire to 
encounter them, he left their trail, but suddenly came upon them while 
endeavoring to get out of the brush.

Before he could raise his rifle, they rushed toward him. He threw his hat 
at the one nearest, and started off at a lively gait. Glancing back, he 
saw two of them quarreling over his old hat; the other was so close that 
he dare not shoot, but dropped his gun and ran for life.

Fortunately, one of his shoes came off, and the bear stopped to examine 
and tear it in pieces, and here no doubt discontinued the chase, as he was 
not seen afterwards, though momentarily expected by the hunter in his 
flight to camp.

The hero of this adventure was a Texan, that was regarded by those who 
knew him best as a brave man, but upon this occasion he was without side 
arms, and, as he said, "was taken at a disadvantage." The Major joked him 
a little upon his continued speed, but "Texas Joe" took it in good part, 
and replied that the Major, "or any other blank fool, 

Page 110

would have run just as he did." A few of us went back with Joe, and found 
his rifle unharmed. The tracks of his pursuers were distinctly visible, 
but no one evinced any desire to follow them up.

We considered his escape a most remarkable one.

A little after dark all the scouts came in, and reported that no Indians 
had been seen, nor very fresh signs discovered, but that a few tracks were 
observed upon the San Joaquin trail.

The news was not encouraging, and some were a little despondent, but as 
usual, a hearty supper and the social pipe restored the younger men to 
their thoughtless gayety. My recollections bring to mind many pleasant 
hours around the camp-fires of the "Mariposa Battalion." Many of the 
members of that organization were men of more than ordinary culture and 
general intelligence; but they had been led out from civilization into the 
golden tide, and had acquired a reckless air and carriage, peculiar to a 
free life in the mountains of California.

The beauty of the little valley in which we were camped had so attracted 
my attention, that while seated by the campfire in the evening, enjoying 
my meal, I spoke of it in the general conversation, and found that others 
had discovered a "claim" for a future rancho, if the subjection of the 
Indians should make it desirable. The scouts mentioned the fact of there 
being an abundance of game as far as they had been, but that of course 
they dare not shoot, lest the Indians might be alarmed. These men were 
provided with venison by Hays and myself, while many a squirrel, jack 
rabbit, quail and pigeon was spitted and roasted by other less fortunate 
hunters. Our deer were divided among immediate friends and associates, and 
Captain Boling slyly remarked that "the Major's appetite is about as good 
as an Indian's." Major Savage seemed to enjoy the conversation 

Page 111

in praise of this region, and in reply to the assertion that this was the 
best hunting ground we had yet seen, said: "Where you find game plenty, 
you will find Indians not far off. This belt of country beats the region 
of the Yosemite or the Poho-no Meadows for game, if the Indians tell the 
truth; and with the exception of the Kern River country, it is the best 
south of the Tuolumne River. It abounds in grizzlies and cinnamon bears, 
and there are some black bears. Deer are very plenty, and a good variety 
of small game--such as crane, grouse, quail, pigeons, road-runners, 
squirrels and rabbits--besides, in their season, water fowl. This 
territory of the Chow-chillas has plenty of black oak acorns (their 
favorite acorn), and besides this, there are plenty of other supplies of 
bulbous roots, tubers, grasses and clover. In a word, there is everything 
here for the game animals and birds, as well as for the Indians."

I now thought I had a turn on the Major, for he was quite enthusiastic, 
and I said: "Major, you have made out another Indian Paradise; I thought 
you a skeptic." With a smile as if in remembrance of our conversation in 
the Yosemite, he replied: "Doc, I don't believe these Chow-chilla devils 
will leave here without a fight, for they seem to be concentrating; but we 
are going to drive them out with a 'flaming brand.' I think we shall find 
some of them to-morrow, if we expect good luck." Turning to Captain Boling 
he continued, "Captain, we must make an early move in the morning; and to-
morrow we must be careful not to flush our game before we get within rifle-
shot. You had better caution the guards to be vigilant, for we may have a 
visit from their scouts to-night, if only to stampede our horses."

Taking this as a hint that it was time to turn in, I rolled myself in my 
blankets. My sleep was not delayed by any thoughts of danger to the 
camp, --though I would have 

Page 112

admitted the danger of loss of animals--but I was awakened by a stir in 
camp, and from hearing the Major called.

Sandino, the Mission Indian interpreter, had just come in from head-
quarters, guiding an escort that had been sent for the Major. The Sergeant 
in command handed a letter to Savage, who, after reading it at the camp 
fire, remarked to Captain Boling, "the commissioners have sent for me to 
come back to head-quarters; we will talk over matters in the morning, 
after we have had our sleep." He was snoring before I slept again.

In the morning Major Savage stated that he had been sent for by the 
Commissioners to aid in treating with a delegation of Kah-we-ah Indians 
sent in by Capt. Kuykendall, and regretted to leave us just at that time, 
when we were in the vicinity of the game we were after. That we would now 
be under the command of Captain Boling, etc. The Major made us a nice 
little speech. It was short, and was the only one he ever made to us. He 
then drew an outline map of the country, and explained to Captain Boling 
the course and plans he had adopted, but which were to be varied as the 
judgment of the Captain should deem to his advantage. He repeatedly 
enjoined the Captain to guard against surprise, by keeping scouts in 
advance and upon flank.

He then said he should leave Sandino with us, and told me that Spencer and 
myself would be expected to act as interpreters, otherwise Captain Boling 
could not make Sandino available as a guide or interpreter, as he cannot 
speak a word of English.

"As surgeon to the expedition, I will see that you are paid extra. The 
endurance of those appointed, has been tried and found wanting; therefore 
I preferred to leave them behind." The Major then left us for head-
quarters, which he would reach before night.

Page 113

Captain Boling crossed the North Fork below the falls, but after a few 
horses had passed over the trail, the bottom land became almost 
impassable. As I had noticed an old trail that crossed just above the 
falls, I shouted to the rear guard to follow me, and started for the upper 
crossing, which I reached some little distance in advance. Spurring my 
mule I dashed through the stream. As she scrambled up the green sod of the 
slippery shore I was just opening my mouth for a triumphant whoop, when 
the sod from the overhanging bank gave way under the hind feet of the 
mule, and, before she could recover, we slipped backwards into the stream, 
and were being swept down over the falls. Comprehending the imminent 
peril, I slipped from my saddle with the coil of my "riata" clasped in 
hand (fortunately I had acquired the habit of leaving the rope upon the 
mule's neck), and, by an effort, I was able to reach the shore with barely 
length of rope enough to take one turn around a sappling and then one or 
two turns around the rope, and by this means I was able to arrest the mule 
in her progress, with her hind legs projecting over the falls, where she 
remained, her head held out of the water by the rope. I held her in this 
position until my comrades came up and relieved me, and the mule from her 
most pitiable position. This was done by attaching another rope, by means 
of which it was drawn up the stream to the shore, where she soon recovered 
her feet and was again ready for service. Not so my medicines and surgical 
instruments, which were attached to the saddle.

While Captain Boling was closing up his scattered command, I took the 
opportunity to examine my damaged stores and wring out my blankets. Being 
thus engaged, and out of sight of the main column, they moved on without 
us. I hastily dried my instruments, and seeing that my rifle had also 
suffered, I hastily discharged and reloaded it. We 

Page 114

passed over the stream below the falls, and were galloping to overtake the 
command, when I discovered a detachment with Captain Boling at the head, 
riding rapidly up the trail toward us. As we met, the Captain returned my 
salutation with "Hallo, Doc., what the devil is the matter?" I explained 
the cause of our delay and the reason for the discharge of my rifle, when 
the Captain said: "We heard the report of your rifle, and I thought you 
were about to have a quilting party of your own, for I knew you would not 
waste lead foolishly, so came back to have a hand in the game." I 
apologized for firing without orders and for causing anxiety; but said, 
that to be frank, I had thought that my rifle being so wet, would only 
"squib." He good humoredly replied, "I am glad I found nothing worse, for 
you have had a narrow escape, and I think we had now better keep closed 
up."

We soon overtook the command which was following the main trail to the 
upper San Joaquin. Crossing the affluent tributaries of the North Fork, we 
finally reached a branch now known as the Little San Joaquin. Here we 
again camped for the third time since leaving head-quarters. Lieutenant 
Chandler and a few of our most experienced scouts were detailed and sent 
out on duty. Captain Boling with a small guard accompanied Chandler for 
some distance out on the trail, and after exploring the vicinity of the 
camp and taking a look at "Battle Mountain" to the westward of us, 
returned without having discovered any fresher signs than had been seen by 
the scouts. That night the camp-guard was strengthened and relieved every 
hour, that there might be no relaxation of vigilance. A little before 
daybreak, Lieutenant Chandler and his scouts came in, and reported that 
they had discovered a number of camp fires, and a big pow-wow, on the main 
San Joaquin river. Satisfied that Indians were there assembled in force, 
and that 

Page 115

they were probably holding a war-dance, they returned at once to report 
their discovery.

The camp was quietly aroused, and after a hasty breakfast in the early 
dawn, we mounted. Before giving the order to march, Captain Boling thought 
it advisable to give us a few words of caution and general orders in case 
we should suddenly meet the enemy and engage in battle. Thinking it would 
be more impressive if delivered in a formal manner, he commenced: "Fellow 
citizens!" (a pause,) "fellow soldiers!" (a longer pause,) "comrades," 
tremulously; but instantly recovering himself, promptly said: "In 
conclusion, all I have to say, boys, is, that I hope I shall fight better 
than I speak." The Captain joined with his "fellow citizens" in the roar 
of laughter, amidst which he gave the order "march," and we started for 
the San Joaquin at a brisk trot.

No better or braver man rode with our battalion. His popularity was an 
appreciation of his true merit. On this occasion he was conscious of the 
responsibility of his position, and, for a moment his modesty overcame 
him. Although his speech lacked the ready flow of language, it eloquently 
expressed to his men the feelings of their Captain, and we comprehended 
what he designed to say.(*) A short ride brought us in sight of the main 
river. As we drew near to it a party of about one hundred Indians were 
discovered drawn up as if to give us battle, but we soon found their line 
had been established on the opposite side of the stream! while the 
swelling torrent between us seemed impassable. Our scouts discovered a 
bark rope stretched across the river, just above the mouth of the South 
Fork, which had been quite recently used. Their scouts had 

(* In some way unaccountable to me, this speech appears in my article in 
Hutching's work, as if delivered before the fight at "Battle Mountain.")

Page 116

undoubtedly discovered our rapid approach, and in their haste to report 
the fact, had neglected to remove this rope, by means of which, the 
crossing was made. The Indians of Northern climes are equally expert in 
crossing streams. In winter, they sprinkle sand upon the smooth ice, in 
order to cross their unshod ponies. The discovery of the rope being 
reported to Captain Boling, he proposed to utilize it by establishing a 
temporary ferry of logs. On examination, the rope was found to be too 
slender to be of practical use, but was employed to convey across a 
stronger one, made from our picket ropes or "riatas," tied together and 
twisted.

Two of our best swimmers crossed the river above the narrows, and pulled 
our rope across by means of the bark one. To protect the men on the 
opposite side, Captain Middleton, Joel H. Brooks, John Kenzie and a few 
other expert riflemen, stood guard over them. A float was made of dry logs 
while the rope was being placed in position, and this was attached to the 
one across the stream by means of a rude pulley made from the crotch of a 
convenient sapling. By this rude contrivance, we crossed to and fro 
without accident. The horses and baggage were left on the right bank in 
charge of a small but select camp guard. As we commenced the ascent of the 
steep aclivity to the table above, where we had seen the Indians 
apparently awaiting our approach, great care was taken to keep open order. 
We momentarily expected to receive the fire of the enemy. The hill-side 
was densely covered with brush, and we cautiously threaded our march up 
through it, until we emerged into the open ground at the crest of the 
hill. Here, not an Indian was in sight to welcome or threaten our arrival. 
They had probably fled as soon as they witnessed our crossing. Captain 
Boling felt disappointed; but immediately sent out an advance skirmish 
line, while we moved in closer order upon the village in sight, which we 
afterwards 

Page 117

found to be that of Jose Rey. Arrived there, we found it forsaken. This 
village was beautifully situated upon an elevated table lying between the 
South Fork and the main river. It overlooked the country on all sides 
except the rear, which could have only been approached through the rugged 
canyons of the forks. It would therefore have been impossible for us to 
surprise it. We found that the Indians had left nothing of value but the 
stores of acorns near by. Captain Boling's countenance expressed his 
feelings, with regard to our lack of success. He ordered the lodges to be 
destroyed with all the supplies that could be discovered.

While entering the village, we had observed upon a little knoll, the 
remnant of what had been a large fire; a bed of live coals and burning 
brands of manzanita-wood still remained. The ground about it indicated 
that there had been a large gathering for a burial-dance and feast, and 
for other rites due the departed; and therefore, I surmised that there had 
been a funeral ceremony to honor the remains of some distinguished member 
of the tribe. I had the curiosity to examine the heap and found that I was 
correct. On raking open the ashes of the funeral-pyre, the calcined bones 
were exposed, along with trinkets and articles of various kinds, such as 
arrow-heads of different shapes and sizes, for the chase and for warfare; 
a knife-blade, a metal looking-glass frame, beads and other articles 
melted into a mass. From these indications--having a knowledge of Indian 
customs--I inferred that the deceased was probably a person of wealth and 
distinction in Indian society. Calling Sandino to the spot, I pointed out 
to him my discoveries. Devoutly crossing himself, he looked at the mass I 
had raked from the ashes, and exclaimed: "Jose Rey, ah! he is dead!" I 
asked how he knew that it was the body of Jose Rey that had been burned. 
He said: (picking up the knife-blade) 

Page 118

"This was the knife of Jose Rey." He then told me "that a chief's property 
was known to all of his people and to many other tribes. That many had 
been here to take part in the funeral ceremonies, and only a great chief 
would have so many come to do honor to his remains; besides we have known 
for a long time that he would die." I reported this statement to Captain 
Boling, who thought it was correct. It was afterwards confirmed by some of 
the followers of the dead chief.

Sandino was or had been a Mission Indian, and prided himself on being a 
good Catholic. I asked him why the Indians burnt the bodies of their dead. 
He replied after devoutly crossing himself, for no Indian will willingly 
speak of their dead. "The Gentiles (meaning the wild Indians) burn the 
bodies to liberate the spirit from it." After again crossing himself, "We 
being Christians by the favor of God, are not compelled to do this duty to 
our dead. They enter into the spirit-world through the virtue of the blood 
of Christ;" then with his face gleaming with religious fervor, he said, 
"Oh! is not this a great blessing-- no labor, no pain, and where all have 
plenty." On a more intimate acquaintance with Sandino, I found that he had 
an implicit belief in all the superstitions of his race, but that the 
saving grace of the blood of Christ was simply superior to their charms 
and incantations.

My experience among other Indians, particularly the Sioux, Chippewa, and 
other tribes that have long had missionaries among them, leads me to the 
conclusion that Sandino's views of Christianity will not be found to 
differ materially from those of many others converted. I afterwards had a 
much more satisfactory conversation with "Russio," who verified Sandino's 
statement concerning their belief, and object in burning their dead. This 
Chief also gave me in detail some of their traditions and mythologies, 
which I shall reserve for future description.

Page 119

Our scouts reported that the fresh trails followed by them led to the main 
trail up the canyon of the river. Everything having been set on fire that 
would burn, we followed in pursuit toward the "High Sierras." Before 
starting the scouts that had gone up the South Fork canyon were called in, 
and we lightened our haversacks by taking a hasty but hearty lunch. We 
followed the trail continuously up, passed a rocky, precipitous point, 
that had terminated in a ridge at the rear of the village, and pursuing it 
rapidly for several miles, we suddenly found that the traces we had been 
following disappeared. We came to a halt, and retracing our steps, soon 
found that they had left the trail at some bare rocks, but it was 
impossible to trace them farther in any direction. Sandino expressed the 
opinion that the Indians had crossed the river; and pointing across the 
foaming rapids said: "They have gone there!" He was denounced by the 
scouts for this assertion, and they swore that "an otter would drown if he 
attempted to swim in such a place." Captain Boling asked: "Is he a coward 
afraid of an ambush, or is he trying to shield his people by discouraging 
our advance?" After Spencer and myself had talked with him a few moments, 
we both expressed our faith in his loyalty, and told the Captain that we 
thought he was sincere in the opinion expressed, that the Indians had 
crossed to the other side. I stated that I did not think it impossible for 
them to do so, as they were all most excellent swimmers. That I had seen 
the Yumas of the Colorado river dive, time after time, and bring up fish 
caught with their bare hands, and perform other seemingly impossible 
feats. I would not, therefore, denounce Sandino without some proof of 
treachery. Captain Boling was not convinced, however, by my statements. It 
was decided that the Chow-chil-las had not crossed the river, and that we 
should probably find their trail further on.

Page 120

With scouts in advance, we resumed our march up the canyon. The trail was 
rough, and, in places, quite precipitous; but we followed on until 
reaching a point in the canon where we should expect to find "signs," for 
there was no choice of routes, but this only trail up the canyon had not 
been used by any one; and the advance were found awaiting the Captain's 
arrival at the gorge. The Captain was puzzled, and ordered a halt. A 
council was held, about as satisfactory as the other had been, but all 
agreed in the conclusion that the Indians had beaten us in wood craft, and 
had artfully thrown us from their trail; though their signal fires were 
still to be seen at intervals on the high rocky points of the river. This 
was a common mode of communication among them. By a peculiar arrangement 
of these fires during the night, and by the smoke from them during the 
day, they are able to telegraph a system of secret correspondence to those 
on the look out. An arrow, shot into the body of a tree at a camp ground, 
or along a trail; or the conspicuous arrangement of a bent bush or twig, 
often shows the direction to be traveled. A bunch of grass, tied to a 
stick and left at the fork of a stream or trail, or at a deserted camp, 
performed the same service. Upon the treeless deserts or plains, a mark 
upon the ground, by camp or trail, gave the required information; thus 
proving that these people possess considerable intelligent forethought.

After looking at the signal fires for some time, Captain Boling said: 
"Gentlemen, there is one thing I can beat these fellows at, and that is in 
building fires. We will go back to the crossing, and from there commence a 
new campaign. We will build fires all over the mountains, so that these 
Indians will no longer recognize their own signals. We will make ours 
large enough to burn all the acorns and other provender we can find. In a 
word, we are forced into a mode of warfare unsuited to my taste or 
manhood, but 

Page 121

this campaign has convinced me of the utter folly of attempting to subdue 
them unless we destroy their supplies of all kinds. Gentlemen, you can 
take my word for it, they do not intend to fight us, or they would have 
tried to stop us at the crossing, where they had every advantage."

There is no point in the mountains more easy to defend than their village. 
It was located most admirably. If they had the fight in them, that was 
claimed by Major Savage and the Indians at head-quarters, we could never 
have crossed the river or approached their village. Their courage must 
have died with Jose Rey. His courage must have been supposed to be that of 
the tribe. They have become demoralized, being left without the energy of 
the chief. Their warlike nature is a humbug. Talk about these Indians 
defeating and driving back the Spanish Californians, after raiding their 
ranches, as has been told! If they did, they must have driven back bigger 
cowards than themselves, who have run away without even leaving a trail by 
which they can be followed. I don't believe it." The Captain delivered 
this serio-comic discourse while seated on a rock, with most inimitable 
drollery; and at my suggestion that they might perhaps yet show 
themselves, he replied rather impatiently: "Nonsense, they will not 
exhibit themselves to-day!" and with this convincing remark, he ordered 
our return.

As we filed away from the narrow gorge, those left in rear reported 
"Indians!" Instinctively turning, we discovered on the opposite side of 
the river, a half dozen or more, not encumbered with any kind of garment. 
A halt was called, and Chandler and a number of others instantly raised 
their rifles for a shot. They were within range, for the canyon was here 
quite narrow, but the Captain promptly said: "No firing men! I am anxious 
for success, but would rather go back without a captive, than have one of 
those 

Page 122

Indians killed, unless," he added after a moment's pause, "they are fools 
enough to shoot at us." Just at the conclusion of this order, and as if in 
burlesque applause of the sentiment expressed by the Captain, the savages 
commenced slapping their naked swarthy bodies in a derisive manner.

The laugh of our men was parried by the Captain, and although annoyed by 
this unexpected demonstration, he laughingly remarked that he had never 
before been so peculiarly applauded for anything he had ever said. The 
absurdity of the scene restored us all to a better humor. Again the order 
was given to march, and we resumed our course down the canyon, with the 
renewed demonstrations of the Indians. The orders of the Captain alone 
prevented a return salute, which would have promptly checked their 
offensive demonstrations.

At the precipice, which we had so guardedly passed on our way up the 
canyon, we came near losing our Captain. In passing this locality he made 
a mis-step, and slipped towards the yawning abyss at the foot of the 
cliff; but for a small pine that had been "moored in the rifted rock," no 
earthly power could have saved him from being dashed to the bottom. He 
fortunately escaped with some severe bruises, a lacerated elbow and a 
sprained wrist. This accident and our tired and disappointed condition, 
gave a more serious appearance to our line, and a more sombre tone to our 
conversations than was usual. We reached camp in a condition, however, to 
appreciate the supper prepared by our guard.



Page 123

CHAPTER VIII.
A Camp Discussion--War or Police Clubs--Jack Regrets a Lost Opportunity--
Boling's Soothing Syrup--A Scribe Criticises and Apologises--Indian War 
Material and its Manufacture--The Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses--Arrival 
at Head-quarters.

IT was not until after we had partaken of a hearty supper and produced our 
pipes, that the lively hum of conversation and the occasional careless 
laughter indicated the elastic temperament of some of the hardy, light-
hearted, if not light-headed, "boys," while in camp. The guard was duly 
detailed, and the signal given to turn in, but not authoritatively; and 
tired as we were, many of us sat quite late around the camp-fires on that 
evening. The excitements and disappointments of our recent excursion did 
not prove to be promoters of sleep; some of us were too tired to sleep 
until we had somewhat rested from our unusual fatigue. The events of the 
day--the true method of subduing Indians, and the probable results of the 
plans proposed by Captain Boling for future operations in this vicinity, 
were the general topics of conversation among the different groups. This 
general inclination to discuss the "peace policy" of the commissioners and 
the plans of our officers, did not arise from anything like a mutinous 
disposition, nor from any motives having in view the least opposition to 
any of the measures connected with the campaign in which we were then 
engaged.

Page 124

We had expected that this tribe would resist our invasion of their 
territory and show fight. In this we had been disappointed. The self-
confident and experienced mountain men, and the ex-rangers from the Texan 
plains, felt annoyed that these Indians had escaped when almost within 
range of our rifles. Our feelings--as a military organization--were 
irritated by the successful manner in which they had eluded our pursuit, 
and thrown us from their trail. We had been outwitted by these ignorant 
Indians; but as individuals, no one seemed inclined to acknowledge it; our 
lack of success was attributed to the restraints imposed on the free 
movements of our organization by orders of the commissioners. Although 
none designed to censure our Captain for his failure, the free speech 
intimations, that we might have been successful, if Major Savage had 
remained to aid us with his knowledge, was not soothing to the Captain's 
already wounded pride. The popularity of Captain Boling was not affected 
by our camp-fire discussion. Had a charge, or intimation even, been made 
by any one of incapacity or neglect of duty in our free expressions, the 
personal safety of the individual would have been immediately endangered; 
although no excess of modesty was observed in expressing opinions. Lieut. 
Chandler was at our own fire, and our officers talked over the solution of 
the enigma in a quiet conversational tone. The usual cheerful countenance 
of the Captain had a more serious expression. His attention was as much 
attracted to the groups around us, as to the remarks of Lt. Chandler.

The energetic Lieutenant was our most rigid disciplinarian when on duty. 
His fearless impetuosity in the execution of all his duties, made him a 
favorite with the more reckless spirits; his blunt and earnest manner 
excited their admiration; for, though possessed of a sublime egotism, he 
was entirely free from arrogance. Instead of his usual cheerful 

Page 125

and agreeable conversation, he was almost morosely taciturn; he refilled 
his capacious mouth with choice Virginia, and settled back against the 
wood-pile. After listening to us for a while, he said: "I am heartily sick 
of this Quaker-style of subduing Indians. So far, --since our muster-in--
we have had plenty of hard work and rough experience, with no honor or 
profit attending it all. We might as well be armed with clubs like any 
other police." There was none in our group disposed to dispute the 
assertion of Chandler. As a body, we were anxiously desirous of bringing 
the Indian troubles to a close as soon as it could be practically 
accomplished. Many of us had suffered pecuniarily from the depredations of 
these Mountain tribes, and had volunteered to aid in subduing them, that 
we might be able to resume our mining operations in peace. Many of us had 
left our own profitable private business to engage in these campaigns for 
the public good, expecting that a vigorous prosecution of the war would 
soon bring it to a close. I will here say that some sensational newspaper 
correspondents took it upon themselves to condemn this effort made by the 
settlers to control these mountain tribes, which had become so dangerous; 
charging the settlers with having excited a war, and to have involved the 
government in an unneccessary expense, for the purpose of reaping 
pecuniary benefits; and that our battalion had been organized to afford 
occupation to adventurous idlers, for the pay afforded. Knowing the 
ignorance that obtains in regard to real Indian character, and the 
mistaken philanthropy that would excuse and probably even protect and 
lionize murderers, because they were Indians; but little attention was at 
first paid to these falsely slanderous articles, until one was published, 
so personally offensive, and with such a false basis of statement, that 
Captain Boling felt it his duty to call for the name of its author. His 
name was given by 

Page 126

the editor of the paper on a formal demand being made. The Captain then 
intimated through a friend, that a public retraction of the article was 
desirable. In due time, the Captain received a very satisfactory apology, 
and a slip of a published retraction of the offensive correspondence. The 
investigation developed the fact that the writer--who was an Eastern 
philanthropist--had been played upon by certain parties in Stockton, who 
had failed to get the contract to supply the battalion.

At an adjoining fire a long-haired Texan was ventilating his professed 
experience in the management of Indians "down thar." Observing that 
Captain Boling was within hearing of his criticism, he turned, and without 
any intentional disrespect, said: "Cap., you orter a let me plunk it to 
one o' them red skins up in the canyon thar. I'd a bin good for one, sure; 
and if I'd a had my way o treatin' with Injuns, Cap., I reckon I'd a made 
a few o' them squawk by this time."

Captain Boling was suffering from his bruises and sprained wrist, and he 
evidently was not pleased to hear these liberal criticisms, but knowing 
the element by which he was surrounded, he did not forget the policy of 
conciliating it in order to prevent any feelings of discontent from 
arising so soon after having assumed full command. He therefore quickly 
replied: "I have no especial regard for these Chow-chillas; you are 
probably aware of that, Jack; but the orders and instructions of the 
Commissioners will have to be disregarded if we shoot them down at sight. 
It would have been almost like deliberate murder to have killed those 
naked Indians to-day, because, Jack, you know just what you can do with 
that rifle of yours. If you had fired you knew you was sure to kill; but 
the Indians did not know the danger there was in coming inside your range. 
It was lucky for the cowards that you did not shoot." This 

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allusion to the Texan's skill with his rifle disposed of the subject as 
far as he was concerned, for he "turned in," while a broad grin showed his 
satisfaction as he replied, "I reckon you're about on the right trail now, 
Cap," and disappeared under his blanket.

Captain Boling sat for some time apparently watching the blazing logs 
before him. He took no part in the discussion of Indian affairs, which 
continued to be the engrossing subject among the wakeful ones, whose 
numbers gradually diminished until Spencer and one or two others beside 
myself only remained at our fire. The Captain then said: "I do not despair 
of success in causing this tribe to make peace, although I cannot see any 
very flattering prospects of our being able to corral them, or force an 
immediate surrender. They do not seem inclined to fight us, and we cannot 
follow them among the rocks in those almost impassable canyons with any 
probability of taking them. Bare-footed they rapidly pass without danger 
over slippery rocks that we, leather-shod, can only pass at the peril of 
our lives. My mishap of to-day is but a single illustration of many that 
would follow were we to attempt to chase them along the dizzy heights they 
pass over. Being lightly clad, or not at all, they swim the river to and 
fro at will, and thus render futile any attempt to pursue them up the 
river, unless we divide the force and beat up on both sides at the same 
time. I have thought this matter over, and have reached the conclusion 
that, unless some lucky accident throws them into our hands, I see but one 
course to pursue, and that is to destroy their camps and supplies, and 
then return to head-quarters."

After having had the bandages arranged on his swollen arm he bade us good 
night, and sought such repose as his bruised limbs and disappointed 
ambition would permit. Having ended our discussions, we came to the sage 

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conclusion that Captain Boling was in command, and duty required our 
obedience to his orders. Satisfied with this decision, we readily dropped 
off to sleep.

The next morning the usual jocular hilarity seemed to prevail in camp. A 
refreshing slumber had seemingly given renewed vigor to the tired 
explorers of the rough trail up the canyon. The camp guard assigned to 
duty at "our ferry" were on duty during the night, so that the breakfast 
call was promptly responded to with appetites unimpaired. Captain Boling's 
arm was dressed and found to be somewhat improved in appearance, though 
very sore. He would not consent to remain in camp, and ordered his horse 
to be saddled after breakfast. Before the morning sun had risen we were in 
our saddles, endeavoring to explore the region north of the San Joaquin. 
Small detachments were detailed from both companies to explore, on foot, 
up the South Fork, and the territory adjacent. Upon the return of this 
command, their report showed that quite a large number of Indians had 
passed over that stream, though none were seen. A considerable supply of 
acorns was found and destroyed by this expedition; but after they left the 
oak table-land, near the fork, they reported the country to the east to be 
about as forbidding as that on the main river. Captain Boling detailed a 
few footmen to scatter over the country on the north side, to burn any 
cache´s they might find, while we on horseback swept farther north, 
towards the Black Ridge. We found the soil soft and yielding, and in 
places it was with difficulty that our weak, grass-fed animals could pass 
over the water-soaked land, even after we had dismounted. I thought this 
boggy ground, hard enough later in the season, another obstacle to a 
successful pursuit, and so expressed myself to the Captain. I told him 
that in '49 I stayed over night with Mr. Livermore of the Livermore Pass, 
and that now I fully comprehended why he thought the mountain 

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tribes could not be entirely subdued, because, as he said, "they will not 
fight except sure of victory, and cannot be caught."

[image caption: CACHES OR INDIAN ACORN STOREHOUSES.]

Mr. Livermore said he had followed up several raiding parties of Indians 
who were driving off stock they had stolen from the Ranchos, but only upon 
one occasion did they make a bold stand, when his party was driven back, 
overcome by numbers. Captain Boling was silent for some time, and then 
said: "Perhaps after all I have done these Indians injustice in calling 
them cowards; probably they feel that they are not called upon to fight 
and lose any of their braves, when by strategy they can foil and elude us. 
Human nature is about alike in war as in other things; it is governed by 
what it conceives to be its interest."

There were in the country we passed over, some beautiful mountain meadows 
and most luxuriant forests, and some of the sloping table lands looked 
like the ornamental parks of an extensive domain. These oak-clad tables 
and ridges, were the harvest fields of the San Joaquin Indians, and in 
their vicinity we found an occasional group of deserted huts. These, with 
their adjacent supplies of acorns, were at once given to the flames. The 
acorns found and destroyed by the scouting parties, were variously 
estimated at from eight hundred to one 

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thousand bushels; beside the supply of Pin˜on pine-nuts and other supplies 
hoarded for future use. The pine-nuts were not all destroyed by fire; most 
of them were confiscated, and served as a dessert to many a roast.

From the total amount of acorns estimated to have been destroyed, their 
supplies were comparatively small, or the number of Indians on the San 
Joaquin had been, as in other localities, vastly overrated. Our search was 
thoroughly made--the explorations from day to day, extending from our 
camps over the whole country to an altitude above the growth of the oaks. 
During these expeditions, not an Indian was seen after those noticed on 
the upper San Joaquin; but fresh signs were often discovered and followed, 
only to be traced to the rocky canyons above where, like deceptive " ignes 
fatui," they disappeared.

Being allowed the largest liberty as surgeon to the expedition, I had 
ample time to examine the various things found in their camps, and obtain 
from Sandino all the information I could concerning them. The stone arrow-
heads and their manufacture, especially interested me. I found 
considerable quantities of the crude material from which they were made, 
with many other articles brought from other localities, such as resin, 
feathers, skins, pumice-stone, salt, etc., used in the manufacture of 
their implements of war, and for the chase as well as for domestic uses.

At this time but few guns were in the possession of these mountain tribes. 
Their chief weapons of war and for the chase were bows and arrows. With 
these they were very expert at short range, and to make their weapons 
effective were disposed to lay in ambush in war, and upon the trails of 
their game. Their bows were made from a species of yew peculiar to the 
West, from cedar and from a spinated evergreen tree, rare in Southern 
California, which, for want of scientific classification, I gave the name 
of "nutmeg 

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pine." It bears a nut resembling in general appearance that agreeable 
spice, while the covering or pulpy shell looks very much like mace. The 
nut is, however, strongly impregnated with resin. The leaves are long, 
hard, and so sharp that the points will pierce the flesh like sharp steel. 
The wood is stronger and more elastic than either the yew, cedar or fir. 
It is susceptible of a fine polish. I made a discovery of a small cluster 
of this species of tree at the foot of the cascades in the canyon, two 
miles below the Yosemite valley, while engaged in a survey of that 
locality.(*)

The shafts of their arrows are made of reeds, and from different species 
of wood, but the choicest are made of what is called Indian arrow-wood (Le 
Hamite). This wood is only found in dark ravines and deep rocky canyons in 
the mountains, as it seems to require dampness and shade. Its scarcity 
makes the young shoots of a proper growth a very valuable article of 
barter between the mountain tribes and those of the valleys and plains. A 
locality in the Yosemite valley once famous for its supply of this arrow-
wood, was the ravine called by the Yosemites "Le-Hamite," (as we might say 
"the oaks," or "the pines,") but which is now designated as "Indian 
canyon."

Their arrow-shafts are first suitably shaped, and then polished between 
pieces of pumice stone. This stone was also used in fashioning and 
polishing their bows, spear-shafts and war clubs. Pumice stone is found in 
abundance in the volcanic regions of California and Oregon, and east of 
the Sierra Nevada. The quality of the best observed by me, was much finer 
and lighter than that seen in the shops as an article of commerce. The 
arrow heads are secured to the shaft by threads of sinew, and a species of 
cement used 

(* I have learned through the kindness of Dr. A. Kellogg, of the 
California Academy of Sciences, that this tree is now known as the
"Torreya Californica.")

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for that and other purposes. The arrow-heads made and in most common use 
by the California Indians, as well as by many other tribes in the mountain 
ranges of the West and Southwest, are of the same shape and general 
appearance, and of similar material, with the exception of obsidian and 
old junk bottles, as the arrow heads found in all parts of the United 
States. They have been generally supposed to have been made and used by 
the pre-historic races that once inhabited this continent. The bow and 
arrows were in common use by the aborigines when America was first 
discovered, and their use has been continued to the present time among the 
tribes whose limited territories were not to any extent intruded upon by 
the whites.

The Indians of California, unlike those of Southern Mexico and South 
America, who use the woorara (strychnos toxifera), poison their arrow-
heads with the poison of the rattlesnake. Some animal's liver is saturated 
with the poison and left until it reaches a state of thorough 
decomposition, when the barbs are plunged into the festering mass, 
withdrawn and dried. The gelatinous condition of the liver causes the 
poison to adhere to the stone, and the strength of the poison is thus 
preserved for some days. Only those arrow-heads that are inserted into a 
socket, and held in place by cement, are thus poisoned. These are easily 
detached after striking an object (the concussion shattering the cement, 
and the play of the shaft loosening the barb), and are left to rankle in 
the wound.

According to Russio, however, this practice is now seldom resorted to, 
except in revenge for some great or fancied injury, or by the more 
malignant of a tribe, Indian policy seeming to discountenance a former 
custom.

The introduction of fire arms among them, has been from the frontiers of 
civilization. The "flint," or more properly cherty rock, when first 
quarried, is brittle and readily split 

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and broken into the desired shapes required, even with the rude implements 
used by the Indians; though it is not probable that any but themselves 
could use them, as considerable skill seems to be required. The tool 
commonly used in the manufacture of arrow-heads, is a species of hammer or 
pick, made by fastening the sharp prong of a deer's horn to a long stick.

With these instruments of various sizes laminated pieces of rock are 
separated, such as slate, with quartz in filtrations, and scales are 
chipped from rocks, volcanic and other glass, with a skill that challenges 
admiration. Stone hammers, or pieces of hard stone, were secured by withes 
and used in some of the processes of flaking; and I have been assured that 
steel implements have been stolen from the miners and used for the same 
purpose, but I never saw them used. Arrow-heads were found, made from 
bones, from chert, obsidian or volcanic glass, and even old junk bottles, 
obtained for the purpose, during their gushing days, from the deserted 
camps of the libative miners.

The most approved fire-arms are now found among many of the western 
tribes, where but a few years ago bows and arrows were in common use. 
Although these hereditary implements of war and of the chase are almost 
wholly discarded, occasionally an old-fashioned Indian may be seen, armed 
with his bow and arrows, his fire-stick a foot long, occupying the hole 
punctured in the lobe of one ear, and his reed-pipe filling the like 
position in the other, while his skunk-skin pouch contained his kin-ne-kin-
nick, a piece of spunk and dry charred cedar, on which a light was 
obtained by rapid friction with his fire-stick. This method of procuring 
fire, has, even among the Indians, been superseded by the flint and steel, 
and they in turn by the labor-saving friction matches.

I have, however, recently witnessed the process of 

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lighting a fire by this primitive process, among the priests of the 
Winnebago and other eastern tribes, who still use and preserve the fire-
stick in making fire for their sacred rites, during which they chant in a 
traditionary Indian dead language, an interpretation of which they do not 
pretend they are able to make. The priests told me that bad spirits would 
interfere with their ministrations if they did not preserve the customs of 
their fathers, and that the dead language made their ceremonies all the 
more impressive and awe-inspiring to their auditors.

[image caption: FIRE STICK AS USED.]

During our explorations up the San Joaquin and branches, the rapidly 
melting snow on the mountains above flooded the streams which we were 
required to cross in our excursions, and we were often compelled from this 
cause to leave our horses and proceed on foot; hence our work was toilsome 
and slow.

As soon as Captain Boling was satisfied that we had accomplished, in this 
locality, all that could be expected of his command, we started for head-
quarters. The route selected for our return was by way of "Fine Gold
Gulch," and down the San Joaquin to a camp opposite the site of Fort 
Miller, that was about being established for the protection of the 
settlers. This was done upon recommendation of the commissioners.



Page 135

CHAPTER IX.
Starvation subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace--Captain 
Kuykendall's Expeditions--An Attack--Rout and Pursuit--A Wise Conclusion--
Freezing out Indians--A wild Country--A terrific View--Yosemite versus 
King's River--Submission of the Indians South of the San Joaquin--Second 
Expedition to Yosemite--Daring Scouts--Capture of Indians--Naming of 
"Three Brothers."

A FEW days after our return from the campaign against the Chow-chil-las, a 
small delegation from a Kah-we-ah band on King's river was sent in by 
Captain Kuykendall, whose energy had subdued nearly all of the Indians in 
his department. The chief of this band informed Major Savage that Tom-kit 
and Frederico, successors in authority to Jose Rey, had visited his camp, 
and had reported that they were very hungry. They came, they said, to hold 
a council. The chief told the Major that he had advised them to come in 
with him and make a treaty, but they refused. They said the white man's 
"medicine" was too powerful for them; but if their great chief had not 
died, he would have driven the white men from the mountains, for he was "a 
heap wise." The white soldiers had killed their great chief; they had 
killed many of their best warriors; they had burned up their huts and 
villages and destroyed their supplies, and had tried to drive their people 
from their territory, and they would kill their women and children if they 
did not hide them where they could not be found; and much more in a 
similar vein.

A small supply of acorns had been given these fugitives, 

Page 136

and when the chief left, they had promised to return and hear what the 
commissioners had said. Major Savage reported this, and with the 
commissioners' approval, decided to return with the Kah-we-ah chief and 
meet in counsel with the Chow-chil-las. He took with him sufficient "beef" 
on foot to give the Indians a grand feast, which lasted several days; 
during which time arrangements were completed for treaties with all of the 
remaining bands of the Kah-we-ah tribe, and with the Chow-chillas. The 
result of the Major's negotiations were in the highest degree 
satisfactory. Captain Boling, however, claimed some of the honor, for, 
said he, I defeated the Chow-chillas by firing at long range.

This once turbulent and uncompromising tribe became the most tractable of 
the mountain Indians. They were superior in all respects to those of most 
other tribes. They had intimate relations with the Monos, a light colored 
race as compared with the Valley or Kah-we-ah tribe, and were very expert 
in the manufacture and use of the bow and arrow. The Mono's had 
intermarried with the Chow-chil-las, and they aided them in their 
intercourse with the Pah-u-tes in their barter for salt, obsidian, lava 
and other commodities. The Chow-chil-las now being disposed of, and a 
treaty signed by the other tribes, it was decided by the commissioners 
that our next expedition should be against the Yo-sem-i-tes. This had been 
recommended by Major Savage as the only practical method of effecting any 
terms with their old Chief. Every inducement had been offered them that 
had been successful with the others; but had been treated with contempt. 
The liberal supplies of beef they refused, saying they preferred horse-
flesh. The half-civilized garbs and gaudy presents tendered at the agency 
were scorned by Ten-ie-ya as being no recompense for relinquishing the 
freedom of his mountain home. Major Savage announced that the expedition 
would start as 

Page 137

soon as the floods had somewhat subsided, so that the streams could be 
crossed. As for ourselves, we had learned to take advantage of any narrow 
place in a stream, and by means of ropes stretched for feet and hands, we 
crossed without difficulty streams that we could not ford with horses. As 
this delay would allow an opportunity for some of the battalion to see to 
such private business as required their attention, short furloughs were 
granted to those most anxious to improve this occasion.

While the companies of Captains Boling and Dill were exploring the 
vicinities of the Merced and San Joaquin in search of Indians, Captain 
Kuykendall, with the able support of his Lieutenants and his company, were 
actively engaged in the same duties south of the San Joaquin. Captain 
Kuykendall vigorously operated in the valleys, foot-hills and mountains of 
the King's and Kah-we-ah rivers, and those of the smaller streams south. 
The Indians of Kern river, owing to the influence of a mission Chief, "Don-
Vincente," who had a plantation at the Tehon pass, remained peaceful, and 
were not disturbed. The success of Captain Kuykendall's campaigns enabled 
the commissioners to make treaties with all the tribes within the Tulare 
valley, and those that occupied the region south of San Joaquin river.

Owing to lapse of time since these events, and other causes, I am unable 
to do justice to him, or the officers and men under him. My personal 
recollections of the incidents of his explorations, were acquired while 
exchanging stories around camp fires. Operating as they did, among the 
most inaccessible mountains in California, with but one company, they 
successfully accomplished the duties assigned them.

It was supposed that some of the tribes and bands among whom they were 
sent were extremely hostile to the whites, 

Page 138

and that they would combine and resist their approach; but after a single 
engagement on King's river, the Indians were put to flight without the 
loss of a man, and could not be induced to hazard another like encounter. 
The plans of operation were similar to those of Captains Boling and Dill: 
the destruction of the camps of all who refused to come in and have a talk 
with the commissioners. Captain Kuykendall's company found these people 
almost without fire-arms and civilized clothing of any kind, and depending 
wholly on their bows and arrows. Except in the vicinity of King's and Kah-
we-ah rivers, the savages were scattered over a large range of country. 
Their camps were generally in the valleys and among the foot-hills; when 
alarmed, they fled to the rocky canyons among the mountains. In one of our 
conversations, during a visit of Captain Kuykendall to the Fresno, he 
said: "When we first started out, we learned from our scouts and guides, 
that a large body of Indians had collected well up on King's river. Making 
a rapid march, we found, on arriving in sight, that they were inclined to 
give us battle. We at once charged into their camp, routed and killed a 
number, while others were ridden down and taken prisoners. We followed the 
fugitives, making a running fight, until compelled to leave our horses, 
when they eluded pursuit. Not yet discouraged, we followed on toward the 
head waters of the Kah-we-ah, seeing occasionally, upon a ridge just ahead 
of us, groups of Indians; but upon our reaching that locality, they were 
resting on the next ridge; and as we came into view, turned their backs 
upon us, applauding our efforts to overtake them, in a very peculiar 
manner. They fled into a worse country than anything before seen in our 
explorations, and I soon perceived the folly of attempting to follow them 
longer. As to this region east and southeast of the termination of our 
pursuit, I have only this to say, that it 

Page 139

is simply indescribable. I did not see any ' dead Indians ' after leaving 
the village, and during the pursuit, although some of the boys were sure 
they had 'fetched their man.' It is certain that a number were killed in 
the assault, but how many, we were unable to ascertain, for upon our 
return, as usual, the dead had been carried off. We lost no men in the 
fight, and had but one wounded. The wound was very painful, having been 
inflicted by one of the glass arrow-heads that it is designed shall be 
left rankling in the wound; but after that was extracted, the wound soon 
healed without serious results."

After this chase on foot into the "High Sierras," the operations of Capt. 
Kuykendall were more limited, for, as he had stated, he regarded it as the 
height of folly to attempt to follow the lightly-armed and lighter clad 
"hostiles" with cavalry, into their rocky mountain retreats. In the 
saddle, except a few sailors in his company, his men felt at home, and 
were willing to perform any amount of severe duty, however dangerous or 
difficult it might be, but on foot, the Texans, especially, were like 
"Jack ashore, without anything to steer by." When required to take a few 
days, provisions and their blankets on their backs, their efforts, like 
those our command, were not very effective, so far as catching the natives 
was concerned. These foot expeditions were designed by the officers to 
keep the enemy alarmed, and in the cold regions, while their supplies were 
being destroyed by the mounted force ranging below. By this strategy, 
Captain Kuykendall kept his men constantly occupied, and at the same time 
displayed his genius as a soldier.

His foot expeditions were generally made by a few enthusiastic scouts, who 
were as much induced to volunteer to perform this duty from a love of 
nature as from a desire to fight. Here were found

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"The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,
And throned eternity in icy halls
Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls
The avalanche--the thunderbolt of snow!
All that expands the spirit, yet appals,
Gather around these summits, as to show
How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below."

The stories told by the men in Kuykendall's command were received with 
doubts, or as exaggerations. Their descriptions represented deeper valleys 
and higher cliffs than had been seen and described by scouts of the other 
companies. It was intimated by us, who had previously described the region 
of the Yosemite, "that the man who told the first story in California 
stood a poor chance." Having read Professor J. D. Whitney's reports of 
that region, I can better appreciate the reports of Captain Kuykendall and 
those under him, of the character of the mountain territory to which they 
had been assigned. Mr. Whitney, State Geologist, in speaking of the 
geological survey of this vicinity, says: "Of the terrible grandeur of the 
region embraced in this portion of the Sierra, it is hardly possible to 
convey any idea. Mr. Gardner, in his notes of the view from Mount Brewer, 
thus enumerates some of the most striking features of the scene: 'canyons 
from two to five thousand feet deep, between thin ridges topped with 
pinnacles sharp as needles; successions of great crater-like 
amphitheatres, with crowning precipices, over-sweeping snow-fields and 
frozen lakes, everywhere naked and shattered granite without a sign of 
vegetation, except where a few gnarled and storm-beaten pines *** cling to 
the rocks in the deeper canyons; such were the elements of the scene we 
looked down upon, while cold gray clouds were drifting overhead.'"

This description applies more properly to the territory east of any point 
reached by Captain Kuykendall, but it 

Page 141

verifies the statements made by him and those of some of his men.

While on our second expedition to the Yosemite, some of Captain 
Kuykendall's company, who had come to headquarters and had been allowed 
the privileges, volunteered to accompany our supply train, as they said: 
"To see what kind of a country we were staying in." One, an enthusiastic 
lover of nature, said on his return: "The King's river country, and the 
territory southeast of it, beats the Yosemite in terrific grandeur, but in 
sublime beauty you have got us." As the furloughs granted to the members 
of B. and C. companies expired, all promptly reported for duty, and 
preparations were completed for another campaign against the Yosemites.

Captain Dill, with part of his company, was retained on duty at 
headquarters, while Lt. Gilbert with a detachment of C. Company, was 
ordered to report for duty to Captain Boling. Dr. Pfifer was placed in 
charge of a temporary hospital, erected for the use of the battalion. 
Surgeon Bronson had resigned, preferring the profits received from his 
negro slaves, who were then mining on Sherlock's creek to all the romance 
of Indian warfare. The doctor was a clever and genial gentleman, but a 
poor mountaineer. Doctor Lewis Leach was appointed to fill the vacancy. 
Doctor Black was ordered to duty with Captain Boling. Major Savage offered 
me a position, and it was urged upon me by Captain Boling, but having a 
number of men engaged in a mining enterprise, in which Spencer and myself 
were interested, we had mutually agreed to decline all office. Beside 
this, when Mr. Spencer and myself entered into service together, it was 
with the expectation that we would soon be again at liberty. But once in 
the service, our personal pride and love of adventure would not allow us 
to become subordinate by accepting office.

Page 142

As it was the design of Major Savage to make a thorough search in the 
territory surrounding the Yosemite, if we failed in surprising the 
inhabitants in their valley, a few scouts and guides were provided for the 
expedition to aid in our search among the "High Sierras," so distinctively 
named by Prof. Whitney. Among our ample supplies ropes were furnished, by 
order of Major Savage, suitable for floats, and for establishing bridges 
where needed. These bridges were suggested by myself, and were useful as a 
support while passing through swift water, or for crossing narrow but 
rushing torrents. This was accomplished expeditiously by simply stretching 
"taut" two ropes, one above the other, the upper rope, grasped by the 
hands, serving to secure the safe passage of the stream. Where trees were 
not found in suitable position to make the suspension, poles were lashed 
together so as to form shears, which served for trestles. I also suggested 
that snow-shoes could probably be used with advantage on our mountain 
excursions. The use of these I found entirely unknown, except to Major 
Savage and a few other eastern men. My experience favored their use, as I 
had often found it easier to travel over deep snow than to wallow through 
it. My suggestion caused a "heap" of merriment, and my friend Chandler 
laughed until he became "powerful weak," and finally I was assailed by so 
many shafts of witty raillery from my southern comrades, that I was 
willing to retreat, and cry out, 'hold, enough!'"

The services of Major Savage being indispensable to the Commissioners, it 
was decided that the expedition would be under the command of Captain 
Boling. In making this announcement, the Major said: he expected Ten-ie-ya 
and his people would come in with us if he was formally invited, and a 
sufficient escort provided. Captain Boling very seriously assured the 
Major, that if the Yosemites accepted the invitation, he should endeavor 
to make the trip a secure

Page 143

one; there should be no neglect on the part of the escort if suitable 
supplies were provided for subsistence. Major Savage laughingly replied 
that as the expedition would be under the especial command of Captain 
Boling, he had no fears that ample supplies would not be provided.

Our preparations being made, we again started for the Merced in search of 
the Yosemites. It was the design of Capt. Boling to surprise the Indians 
if possible, and if not, to cut off the escape of their women and 
children, the capture of whom, would soon bring the warriors to terms. 
With this plan in view, and leaving Chandler virtually in command of the 
column, we made a rapid march direct for their valley, crossing the 
streams without much difficulty, and without accident.

The advance, consisting of Captain Boling with a small detachment, and 
some of the scouts, quietly entered the valley, but no Indians were seen. 
A few new wigwams had been built on the south side near the lower ford, to 
better guard the entrance as was supposed. Without halting, except to 
glance at the vacant huts, the advance rode rapidly on, following a trail 
up the south side, which our Pohonochee guide informed the captain was a 
good trail.

On entering the valley and seeing the deserted wigwams I reached the 
conclusion that our approach had been heralded. As my military ardor 
subsided, my enthusiastic love of the beautiful returned to me, and I 
halted a moment to take a general view of the scenery; intending also to 
direct the column up the south side. While waiting for Chandler, I 
examined the huts, and found several bushels of scorched acorns that had 
been divested of their covering, as if for transportation. I knew that the 
natives had no more fondness for burnt acorns than Yankees have for burnt 
beans, and the interpreter Sandino, who was with me at this 

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moment, muttered in Indian Spanish, "Yosemite very poor--no got much eat; 
acorns, fire burn--pull 'em out." In one of the huts we found a young dog, 
a miserable cur that barked his affright at our approach, and fled into 
the brush near by. I told Lt. Chandler of the directions left for his 
guidance, and as he expressed his intention to bring up the rear of the 
column into closer order, I received permission to move slowly on with his 
advance, consisting of Firebaugh, Spencer, French, Fisher, Stone, a few 
others and myself. We were soon overtaken by Chandler, who had given his 
orders to the rear-guard. As we rode along, I reported the conclusions of 
Sandino and my knowledge of the fact that nearly all the acorns had been 
burnt. I also told him what Sandino had previously said, that the Indians 
took the shells off the acorns they carried over the mountains, and from 
this cause, thought the hulled acorns found were designed for a distant 
transportation. Again referring the matter to Sandino, who was called up 
for the purpose, he said, "No fire when take off skin; no like 'em; 
Yosemite close by, want 'em acorn." Upon telling Chandler that Sandino's 
opinion was that the acorns found were saved from some of the burning 
supplies fired at our first visit, and that the Yosemites were 
transporting them to some mountain retreat, the Lieutenant could not 
credit it, and said that "Sandino's opinions are unreliable."

Sandino was not popular, either with our officers or with the "boys." 
Captain Boling doubted his integrity, while Chandler said he was a most 
arrant coward and afraid of the wild Indians. Chandler was right; but, 
nevertheless, Sandino told us many truths. At times his timidity and 
superstition were very annoying; but if reproved, he became the more 
confused, and said that many questions made his head ache; a very common 
answer to one in search of knowledge among Indians. Sandino had been sent 
along 

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by the Major as our interpreter, but a Spanish interpreter was necessary 
to make him of any use. As a scout he was inferior--almost useless. We 
afterwards found that Sandino's surmises were true. It was evident that 
the fire had been extinguished at some of the large heaps, and many acorns 
saved, though in a damaged condition.

As we rode on up the valley, I became more observant of the scenery than 
watchful for signs, when suddenly my attention was attracted by shadowy 
objects flitting past rocks and trees on the north side, some distance 
above El Capitan. Halting, I caught a glimpse of Indians as they passed an 
open space opposite to us. Seeing that they were discovered, they made no 
further efforts to hide their movements, but came out into open view, at 
long rifle range. There were five of them. They saluted us with taunting 
gestures, and fearlessly kept pace with us as we resumed our march. The 
river was here a foaming impassable torrent. The warriors looked with 
great indifference on our repeated efforts to discover a fording place. As 
we approached a stretch of comparatively smooth water, I made known to 
Chandler my intention of swimming the stream to capture them. His answer 
was: "Bully for you, Doc; take 'em, if you can, alive, but take 'em 
anyhow." I started with Spencer, Firebaugh, French, young Stone and two 
others, for a sloping bank where our animals would most willingly enter 
the stream; but Stone spurred passed me as we reached the bank, and when 
Firebaugh's mulish mustang refused the water, though given the spur, and 
all the other mules refused to leave the horse, Stone backed his mule over 
the bank, and we swam our mules after the "boy leader" across the Merced.

The Indians, alarmed by this unexpected movement, fled up the valley at 
the top of their speed. By the time we had crossed, they had nearly 
reached a bend in the river 

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[image caption: THE THREE BROTHERS. (3,850 feet in height.)]

above on the north side. We followed at our best gait, but found the trail 
obstructed by a mass of what then appeared to be recently fallen rocks. 
Without hesitation, we abandoned our mules, and continued the pursuit on 
foot, up to the rocky spur known as the "Three Brothers," where entering 
the Talus, they disappeared. Find them, we could not. The obstructing 
rocks on the old north side trail were known as "We-ack," "The Rocks," and 
understood to mean the "fallen rocks," because, according to traditions 
they had fallen upon the old trail. The modern trail for horses crossed 
the stream a short distance below, where there was a very good ford in a 
lower stage of water, but at this time, the early part of May, the volume 
of water rushing down the Merced was astonishing. We had 

Page 147

crossed readily enough in the heat of excitement; but it was with feelings 
of reluctance that we re-entered the cold water and swam our mules back to 
where a few of our comrades had halted on the south side.

Mr. Firebaugh, having failed to get his mustang to follow us, had run him 
up on the south side as if to cut off the fugitives, and saw them hide 
behind a ledge of rocks.

When informed of the situation, Capt. Boling crossed to the north side and 
came down to the ledge where the scouts were hidden; but the Captain could 
scarcely at first credit Firebaugh's statement, that he had seen them 
climb up the cliff. Our Indian scouts were sent up to hunt out the hidden 
warriors, and through the means of fair promises, if they came down 
voluntarily, Captain Boling succeeded in bringing in the five Indians. 
Three of the captives were known to us, being sons of Ten-ie-ya, one of 
whom was afterwards killed; the other two were young braves, the wife of 
one being a daughter of the old chief. The Indian name for the three rocky 
peaks near which this capture was made was not then known to any of our 
battalion, but from the strange coincidence of three brothers being made 
prisoners so near them, we designated the peaks as the "Three Brothers." I 
soon learned that they were called by the Indians "Kom-po-pai-zes," from a 
fancied resemblance of the peaks to the heads of frogs when sitting up 
ready to leap. A fanciful interpretation has been given the Indian name as 
meaning "mountains playing leap-frog," but a literal translation is not 
desirable. 

They hear the plaintive bull-frog to his mistress trilling sweet;
They see the green-robed sirens plunge down in waters deep.
But leap these mountains may not; they watch, with clouded brow,
Return of young Ten-ie-ya--heard not his death's pow-wow.