Discovery of the Yosemite - Chapters III-V



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CHAPTER III.
March Down the South Fork--Capture of an Indian Village--Hungry Men--An 
able Surgeon--Snow Storms--Visit of Ten-ei-ya, Chief of the Yosemites--
Commander's Dilemma--Unique Manner of Extrication--Approaching the Valley--
First View--Sensations Experienced--A Lofty Flight Brought Down.

THERE was a very passable trail for horses leading down the right bank of 
the river, but it was overlooked on the left bank by the Indian village, 
which was situated on a high point at a curve in the river that commanded 
an extensive view up and down. To avoid being seen, the Major led us along 
down the left bank, where we were compelled, at times, to wade into the 
rushing torrent to avoid the precipitous and slippery rocks, which, in 
places, dipped into the stream. Occasionally, from a stumble, or from the 
deceptive depths of the clear mountain stream, an unfortunate one was 
immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed colder than the snow baths of the 
mountain. With every precaution, some became victims to these mischances, 
and gave vent to their emotions, when suddenly immersed, by hoarse curses, 
which could be heard above the splash and roar of the noisy water. These 
men (headed by Surgeon Bronson) chilled and benumbed, were sent back to 
the camp to "dry their ammunition." (?) After passing this locality--our 
march thus far having alternated in snow and water--we arrived, without 
being discovered, in sight of the smoke of their camp-fires, where we 
halted for a short rest.

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Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which were not then 
understood by me. On again resuming our march, the Major, with "Bob," 
started at a rapid step, while the others maintained a slow gait.

I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the march. I soon 
heard an audible smile, evidently at my expense. I comprehended that I had 
somehow "sold" myself, but as the Major said nothing, I continued my 
march. I observed a pleased expression in the Major's countenance, and a 
twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if he enjoyed the fun of 
the "boys" behind us, while he increased his speed to an Indian jog-trot. 
I determined to appear as unconscious, as innocent of my blunder, and 
accommodate my gait to his movements. My pride or vanity was touched, and 
I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a more rapid motion. After a 
run of a mile or more, we reached the top of a narrow ridge which 
overlooked the village. The Major here cast a side glace at me as he threw 
himself on the ground, saying: "I always prided myself on my endurance, 
but somehow this morning my bottom fails me." As quietly as I could I 
remarked that he had probably been traveling faster than he was aware of, 
as "Bob" must be some way behind us. After a short scrutiny of my 
unconcerned innocence, he burst into a low laugh and said: "Bunnell, you 
play it well, and you have beaten me at a game of my own choosing. I have 
tested your endurance, however; such qualifications are really valuable in 
our present business." He then told me as I seated myself near him, that 
he saw I had not understood the order, and had increased his speed, 
thinking I would drop back and wait for the others to come up, as he did 
not wish to order me back, although he had preferred to make this scout 
alone with "Bob," as they were both acquainted with the band and the 
region they occupy. While we resting "Bob" 

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came up. The Major gave him some direction in an Indian dialect I did not 
understand, and he moved on to an adjoining thicket, while the Major and 
myself crawled to the shelter of a bunch of blue brush (California lilac), 
just above where we had halted.

After obtaining the desired information without being seen, Bob was sent 
back to Captain Boling to "hurry him up." While awaiting the arrival of 
our command, I, in answer to his inquiries, informed the Major that I had 
come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was but little more than a 
frontier village; that the Indians annually assembled there and at Malden, 
Canada, to receive their annuities. At that time, being but nine years of 
age, and related to Indian traders, I was brought in contact with their 
customers, and soon learned their language, habits and character, which 
all subsequent attempts to civilize me had failed entirely to eradicate. 
This statement evidently pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with 
frontier life, he continued his conversation, and I soon learned that I 
was acquainted with some of his friends in the Northwest. I have related 
this incident because it was the beginning of an intimate friendship which 
ever afterward existed between us.

On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their respective 
companies, we were deployed into skirmish line, and advanced toward the 
encampment without any effort at concealment. On discovering us the 
Indians hurriedly ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue. 
Seeing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their hands in token of 
submission, crying out at the same time in Spanish, " Pace! pace! " 
(peace! peace!) We were at once ordered to halt while Major Savage went 
forward to arrange for the surrender. The Major was at once recognized and 
cordially received by such of the band as he desired to 

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confer with officially. We found the village to be that of Pon-wat-chee, a 
chief of the Noot-chu; tribe, whose people had formerly worked for Savage 
under direction of Cow-chit-ty, his brother, and from whose tribe Savage 
had taken Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. The chief professed still 
to entertain feelings of friendship for Savage, saying that he was now 
willing to obey his counsels. Savage, in response, lost no time in 
preliminary affairs.

He at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and his 
requirements. His terms were promptly agreed to, and before we had time to 
examine the captives or their wigwams, they had commenced packing their 
supplies and removing their property from their bark huts. This done, the 
torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token of their sincerity 
in removing to the Reservations on the Fresno.

By the Major's orders they had at once commenced their preparations for 
removal to a rendezvous, which he had selected nearly opposite this 
encampment, which was accessible to horses. This plateau was also the 
location designated for our camp. This camp was afterwards used by an 
employe´ at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was known as Bishop's 
Camp. It is situated on an elevated table, on the right side of the valley 
of the South Fork.

While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to the place selected, 
our tired and hungry men began to feel the need of rest and refreshments. 
We had traveled a much longer distance since the morning before than had 
been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of the men had not 
tasted food since the day before.

John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could be procured, he 
would esteem it an especial favor. Bob McKee thought this a capital time 
to learn to eat acorn bread, but after trying some set before him by "a 
young 

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and accomplished squaw," as the Major cynically termed her, concluded he 
was not yet hungry enough for its enjoyment.

A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up the reserve and 
supplies, but the service was not very promptly accepted. McKee, myself 
and two others, however, offered to go with the order to move down to the 
selected rendezvous. Three Indians volunteerd to go with us as guides; one 
will seldom serve alone. We found the trail on the right bank less 
laborious to travel than was expected, for the snow had mostly disappeared 
from the loose, sandy soil, which upon this side of the river has a 
southwesterly exposure. On our arrival in camp preparations were begun to 
obey the order of the Major. While coffee was being prepared Doctor 
Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully administered to us a 
refreshing draught of " Aqua Ardente."

After a hasty breakfast, we took to our saddles, and taking a supply of 
biscuits and cold meat, left the train and arrived at the new camp ground 
just as our hungry comrades came up from the Indian village. The scanty 
supplies, carried on our saddles, were thankfully received and speedily 
disposed of. The Indians had not yet crossed the river. We found that we 
had traveled about twelve miles, while our comrades and the captives had 
accomplished only three.

From this camp, established as our headquarters, or as a base of 
operations while in this vicinity, Major Savage sent Indian runners to the 
bands who were supposed to be hiding in the mountains. These messengers 
were instructed to assure all the Indians that if they would go and make 
treaties with the commissioners. they would there be furnished with food 
and clothing, and receive protection, but if they did not come in, he 
should make war upon them until he destroyed them all.

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Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village was captured, that a 
small band of Po-ho-no-chees were encamped on the sunny slope of the 
divide of the Merced, and he having at once dispatched a runner to them, 
they began to come into camp. This circumstance afforded encouragement to 
the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not entirely sanguine of success with the 
Yosemites, though he told the Major that if the snow continued deep they 
could not escape.

At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cautious--dodging 
behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would not recognize their 
friendly signals.

Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of friendly 
treatment, all soon came in who were in our immediate vicinity. None of 
the Yosemites had responded to the general message sent. Upon a special 
envoy being sent to the chief, he appeared the next day in person. He came 
alone, and stood in dignifed silence before one of the guard, until 
motioned to enter camp. He was immediately recognized by Pon-wat-chee as 
Ten-ie-ya, the old chief of the Yosemites, and was kindly cared for--being 
well supplied with food--after which, with the aid of the other Indians, 
the Major informed him of the wishes of the commissioners. The old sachem 
was very suspicious of Savage, and feared he was taking this method of 
getting the Yosemites into his power for the purpose of revenging his 
personal wrongs. Savage told him that if he would go to the commissioners 
and make a treaty of peace with them, as the other Indians were going to 
do, there would be no more war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the 
object of taking all the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley, 
and said: "My people do not want anything from the 'Great Father' you tell 
me about. The Great Spirit is our father, and he has always supplied us 
with all we need. We do 

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not want anything from white men. Our women are able to do our work. Go, 
then; let us remain in the mountains where we were born; where the ashes 
of our fathers have been given to the winds. I have said enough!"

This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect and gestures: "If 
you and your people have all you desire, why do you steal our horses and 
mules? Why do you rob the miners' camps? Why do you murder the white men, 
and plunder and burn their houses?"

Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he understood what 
Savage had said, for he replied: "My young men have sometimes taken horses 
and mules from the whites. It was wrong for them to do so. It is not wrong 
to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my people. My young men 
believed the white gold-diggers were our enemies; we now know they are 
not, and we will be glad to live in peace with them. We will stay here and 
be friends. My people do not want to go to the plains. The tribes who go 
there are some of them very bad. They will make war on my people. We 
cannot live on the plains with them. Here we can defend ourselves against 
them."

In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said: "Your people 
must go to the Commissioners and make terms with them. If they do not, 
your young men will again steal our horses, your people will again kill 
and plunder the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores, burned my 
houses, and murdered my men. If they do not make a treaty, your whole 
tribe will be destroyed, not one of them will be left alive." At this 
vigorous ending of the Major's speech, the old chief replied: "It is 
useless to talk to you about who destroyed your property and killed your 
people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are cowards, for they 
led us on. I am old and you can kill me 

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if you will, but what use to lie to you who know more than all the 
Indians, and can beat them in their big hunts of deer and bear. Therefore 
I will not lie to you, but promise that if allowed to return to my people 
I will bring them in." He was allowed to go. The next day he came back, 
and said his people would soon come to our camp; that when he had told 
them they could come with safety they were willing to go and make a treaty 
with the men sent by the "Great Father," who was so good and rich. Another 
day passed, but no Indians made their appearance from the "deep valley," 
spoken of so frequently by those at our camp. The old chief said the snow 
was so deep that they could not travel fast, that his village was so far 
down (gesticulating, by way of illustration, with his hands) that when the 
snow was deep on the mountains they would be a long time climbing out of 
it. As we were at the time having another storm Ten-ie-ya's explanation 
was accepted, but was closely watched.

The next day passed without their coming, although the snow storm had 
ceased during the night before. It was then decided that it would be 
necessary to go to the village of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and in 
case they could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places in 
the deep canyon, so often represented as such a dangerous locality. Ten-ie-
ya was questioned as to the route and the time it would take his people to 
come in; and when he learned we were going to his village, he represented 
that the snow was so deep that the horses could not go through it. He also 
stated that the rocks were so steep that our horses could not climb out of 
the valley if they should go into it. Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya's 
statements to be made known to his men. It was customary in all of our 
expeditions where the force was divided, to call for volunteers. The men 
were accordingly drawn up into line, and the call made that 

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all who wished to go to the village of the Yosemites were to step three 
paces to the front. When the order to advance was given, to the surprise 
of Captains Boling and Dill, each company moved in line as if on parade. 
The entire body had volunteered. As a camp-guard was necessary, a call was 
then made for volunteers for this duty. When the word "march" was again 
repeated, but a limited number stepped to the front. Captain Boling, with 
a smile on his good-natured face, said: "A camp-guard will have to be 
provided in some way. I honor the sentiment that prompted you all to 
volunteer for the exploration, and I also appreciate the sacrifice made by 
those who are willing to stay; but these are too few. Our baggage, 
supplies and Indian captives must be well guarded. I endeavored to make 
the choice of duty voluntary, by representing the difficulties that might 
reasonably be expected, and thus secure those best suited for the 
respective duty of field and camp. I am baffled, but not defeated, for I 
have another test of your fitness; it is a foot race. You know it has been 
represented to us by Ten-ie-ya that the route to his village is an 
extremely difficult one, and impassable for our horses. It may not be 
true, but it will be prudent to select men for the expedition who have 
proved their endurance and fleetness. I now propose that you decide what I 
have found so difficult."

This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and the 
arrangements for the contest were at once commenced, as it afforded a 
source of frolicsome amusement. A hundred yards were paced off, and the 
goal conspicuously marked. A distance line was to determine who should 
constitute the camp-guard. I doubt if such boisterous hilarity and almost 
boyish merriment was ever before seen while making a detail from any 
military organization.

The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy preparations, and 
began to be fearful of their safety, but on 

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learning the cause of the excitement, they, too, became interested in the 
proceedings, and expressed a desire to participate in the race. Two or 
three were allowed to join in as proxies for the " heavy ones " who 
concluded not to run, though willing to pay the young Indians to represent 
them in the race, provided they came out ahead. One young Indian did beat 
every man, except Bob McKee, for whom he manifested great admiration. Many 
anxious ones ran barefooted in the snow. The Indian's motions were not 
impeded by any civilized garments; a modest waist cloth was all they had 
on. In subsequent races, after a long rest, several of our men 
demonstrated that their racing powers were superior to the fastest of the 
Indian runners. Captain Boling's racing scheme brought out the strong 
points of the runners. Enough were distanced in both companies to secure 
an ample camp-guard. The envious guard raised the point that this method 
of detail was simply a proof of legs, not brains. It was reported in camp 
that Captain Boling had kept a record of the speedy ones which he had 
filed away for future use in cases where fleetness of foot would be 
required for extra duties.

Preparations were made for an early start the next morning. The officer to 
be left in charge of the camp was instructed to allow the Indians all 
liberty consistent with safety, and to exercise no personal restraint over 
them unless there should be an evident attempt to leave in a body; when, 
of course, any movement of the kind was to be defeated. The Major said: "I 
deem the presence of the women and children a sufficient hostage for the 
peaceful conduct of the men, but do not allow any of them to enter our 
tents, or we may lose possession."

This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from vermin. The 
pediculi of the Indian race have an especial affinity for them. White 
people have but little to fear from 

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Indian vermin except the temporary annoyance that is experienced from some 
species that infest animals and birds. They do not find the transfer 
congenial, and soon disappear. This fact may not be generally known, but I 
believe it to be a normal arrangement for the exclusive comfort of the 
Indian.

To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evidence of a diversity 
of origin of the races. I have been very particular in my observations in 
this matter, and have compared my own with experiences of others, and have 
been led to the conclusion that each separate race has parasites 
indigenous to that race, although the genus may be common to each.

This reluctant adaptability of these "entomological inconveniences" saved 
us from one of the curses of the ancient Egyptians, when contact was 
unavoidable.

As no information had been received from the camp of the Yosemites, after 
an early breakfast, the order was passed to "fall in," and when the order 
"march" was given, we moved off in single file, Savage leading, with Ten-
ie-ya as guide.

From the length of time taken by the chief to go and return from his 
encampment, it was supposed that with horses, and an early start, we 
should be able to go and return the same day, if for any cause it should 
be deemed desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in case of a 
longer delay.

While ascending to the divide between the South Fork and the main Merced 
we found but little snow, but at the divide, and beyond, it was from three 
to five feet in depth, and in places much deeper. The sight of this 
somewhat cooled our ardor, but none asked for a " furlough."

To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a trail, each man was 
required to take his turn in front. 

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The leader of the column was frequently changed; no horse or mule could 
long endure the fatigue without relief. To effect this, the tired leader 
dropped out of line, resigning his position to his followers, taking a 
place in the rear, on the beaten trail, exemplifying, that "the first 
shall be last, and the last shall be first." The snow packed readily, so 
that a very comfortable trail was left in the rear of our column.

Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features, in admiration 
of our method of making a trail, and assured us, that, notwithstanding the 
depth of snow, we would soon reach his village. We had in our imaginations 
pictured it as in some deep rocky canon in the mountains.

While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to describe the 
location to Major Savage, had resulted in the unanimous verdict among the 
"boys," who were observing him, that "it must be a devil of a place." 
Feeling encouraged by the hope that we should soon arrive at the 
residences of his Satanic majesty's subjests, we wallowed on, alternately 
becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were extricated from the 
drifts. When we had traversed a little more than half the distance, as was 
afterwards proved, we met the Yosemites on their way to our rendezvous on 
the South Fork.

As they filed past us, the major took account of their number, which was 
but seventy-two. As they reached our beaten trail, satisfaction was 
variously expressed, by grunts from the men, by the low rippling laughter 
from the squaws, and by the children clapping their hands in glee at the 
sight. On being asked where the others of his band were, the old Sachem 
said, "This is all of my people that are willing to go with me to the 
plains. Many that have been with me are from other tribes. They have taken 
wives from my band; all have gone with their wives and children to the 
Tuolumne and to the Monos." Savage told 

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Ten-ie--ya that he was telling him that which was not true. The Indians 
could not cross the mountains in the deep snow, neither could they go over 
the divide of the Tuolumne. That he knew they were still at his village or 
in hiding places near it. Ten-ie-ya assured the major he was telling him 
the truth, and in a very solemn manner declared that none of his band had 
been left behind--that all had gone before his people had left. His people 
had not started before because of the snow storm.

With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ei-ya's band was with this 
party, Major Savage decided to go on to the Indian village and ascertain 
if any others could be found or traces of them discovered. This decision 
was a satisfactory one and met with a hearty approval as it was reported 
along the line.

This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow-chit-tee, as 
numbering more than two hundred; as about that number usually congregated 
when they met together to " cache " their acorns in the valley, or for a 
grand annual hunt and drive of game; a custom which secured an abundant 
supply for the feast that followed.

At other times they were scattered in bands on the sunny slopes of the 
ridges, and in the mountain glens. Ten-ie-ya had been an unwilling guide 
thus far, and Major Savage said to him: "You may return to camp with your 
people, and I will take one of your young men with me. There are but few 
of your people here. Your tribe is large. I am going to your village to 
see your people, who will not come with you. They will come with me if I 
find them."

Savage then selected one of the young "braves" to accompany him. Ten-ie-ya 
replied, as the young Indian stepped forward by his direction, "I will go 
with my people; my young man shall go with you to my village. You will 

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not find any people there. I do not know where they are. My tribe is 
small--not large, as the white chief has said. The Pai-utes and Mono's are 
all gone. Many of the people with my tribe are from western tribes that 
have come to me and do not wish to return. If they go to the plains and 
are seen, they will be killed by the friends of those with whom they had 
quarreled. I have talked with my people and told them I was going to see 
the white chiefs sent to make peace. I was told that I was growing old, 
and it was well that I should go, but that young and strong men can find 
plenty in the mountains; therefore why should they go? to be yarded like 
horses and cattle. My heart has been sore since that talk, but I am now 
willing to go, for it is best for my people that I do so."

The Major listened to the old Indian's volubility for awhile, but 
interrupted him with a cheering "Forward march!" at which the impatient 
command moved briskly forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving 
the chief alone, as his people had already gone on.

We found the traveling much less laborious than before, and it seemed but 
a short time after we left the Indians before we suddenly came in full 
view of the valley in which was the village, or rather the encampments of 
the Yosemities. The immensity of rock I had seen in my vision on the Old 
Bear Valley trail from Ridley's Ferry was here presented to my astonished 
gaze. The mystery of that scene was here disclosed. My awe was increased 
by this nearer view. The face of the immense cliff was shadowed by the 
declining sun; its outlines only had been seen at a distance. This 
towering mass 

"Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great,
Defies at first our Nature's littleness,
Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate
Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate."

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That stupendous cliff is now known as "El Capitan" (the Captain), and the 
plateau from which we had our first view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.

[image caption: EL CAPITAN. (3,300 feet in height.)]

It has been said that "it is not easy to describe in words the precise 
impressions which great objects make upon us." I cannot describe how 
completely I realized this truth. None but those who have visited this 
most wonderful valley, can even imagine the feelings with which I looked 
upon the view that was there presented. The grandeur of the scene was but 
softened by the haze that hung over the valley, --light as gossamer--and 
by the clouds which partially dimmed the higher cliffs and mountains. This 
obscurity of vision but increased the awe with which I beheld it, and as I 
looked, a peculiar exalted sensation seemed to fill my whole being, and I 
found my eyes in tears with emotion.

During many subsequent visits to this locality, this sensation was never 
again so fully aroused. It is probable that the shadows fast clothing all 
before me, and the vapory clouds at the head of the valley, leaving the 
view beyond still undefined, gave a weirdness to the scene, that made it 
so impressive; and the conviction that it was utterly indescribable 

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added strength to the emotion. It is not possible for the same intensity 
of feeling to be aroused more than once by the same object, although I 
never looked upon these scenes except with wonder and admiration.

Richardson, in his admirable work, "Beyond the Mississippi," says: "See 
Yosemite and die! I shall not attempt to describe it; the subject is too 
large and my capacity too small.***Painfully at first these stupendous 
walls confuse the mind. By degrees, day after day, the sight of them 
clears it, until at last one receives a just impression of their solemn 
immensity.***Volumes ought to be and will be written about it."

Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the impressions produced 
upon nearly all who for the first time behold this wonderful valley. The 
public has now, to a certain degree, been prepared for these scenes.

They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photographs and masterly 
paintings of Hill and Bierstadt; whereas, on our first visit, our 
imagination had been misled by the descriptive misrepresentations of 
savages, whose prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, until 
we had expected to see some terrible abyss. The reality so little 
resembled the picture of imagination, that my astonishment was the more 
overpowering.

To obtain a more distinct and quiet view, I had left the trail and my 
horse and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite rock. So 
interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe that my 
comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone. My 
situation attracted the attention of Major Savage,--who was riding in rear 
of column,--who hailed me from the trail below with, "you had better wake 
up from that dream up there, or you may lose your hair; I have no faith in 
Ten-ie-ya's statement that there are no Indians about here. 

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We had better be moving; some of the murdering devils may be lurking along 
this trail to pick off stragglers." I hurriedly joined the Major on the 
descent, and as other views presented themselves, I said with some 
enthusiasm, "If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace, for I have 
here seen the power and glory of a Supreme being; the majesty of His handy-
work is in that 'Testimony of the Rocks.' That mute appeal--pointing to El 
Capitan--illustrates it, with more convincing eloquence than can the most 
powerful arguments of surpliced priests." "Hold up, Doc! you are soaring 
too high for me; and perhaps for yourself. This is rough riding; we had 
better mind this devilish trail, or we shall go soaring over some of these 
slippery rocks." We, however, made the descent in safety. When we overtook 
the others, we found blazing fires started, and preparations commenced to 
provide supper for the hungry command; while the light-hearted "boys" were 
indulging their tired horses with the abundant grass found on the meadow 
near by, which was but lightly covered with snow.

Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott's History of Fresno County 
and dispatches from Major Savage as proof that it was May 5th or 6th, 
1851, that the Mariposa Battalion first entered the Yosemite. As a matter 
of fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery was made in 
March, nor was there ever but two companies in the Yosemite at any time, 
Boling's and part of Dill's. Captain Dill himself was detailed for duty at 
the Fresno, after the expedition in March, as was also the adjutant. In 
making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have ignored the first entry of the 
valley by the few men who discovered it, and made his first entry to 
appear as the date of the discovery. This may or may not have been done to 
give importance to the operations of the battalion. I have never seen the 
report.



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CHAPTER IV.
Naming the Valley--Signification and Origin of the Word--Its proper 
Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty--Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te--His Restoration 
of Yo-sem-i-te.

MY devout astonishment at the supreme grandeur of the scenery by which I 
was surrounded, continued to engross my mind. The warmth of the fires and 
preparations for supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, which 
rapidly dissipated my excitement. As we rode up, Major Savage remarked to 
Capt. Boling, "We had better move on up, and hunt out the "Grizzlies" 
before we go into camp for the night. We shall yet have considerable time 
to look about this hole before dark." Captain Boling then reported that 
the young guide had halted here, and poured out a volley of Indian lingo 
which no one could understand, and had given a negative shake of his head 
when the course was pointed out, and signs were made for him to move on. 
The Captain, not comprehending this performance, had followed the trail of 
the Indians to the bank of the stream near by, but had not ventured 
further, thinking it best to wait for Major Savage to come up. After a few 
inquiries, the Major said there was a ford below, where the Indians 
crossed the Merced; and that he would go with the guide and examine it. 
Major Savage and Captains Boling and Dill then started down to the 
crossing. They soon returned, and we were ordered to arrange our camp for 
the night. Captain Boling said the Merced was too high to 

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ford. The river had swollen during the day from the melting of the snow, 
but would fall again by morning.

The guide had told the Major there was no other way up the valley, as it 
was impossible to pass the rocks on the south side of the stream. From 
this, it was evident the Major had never before seen the valley, and upon 
inquiry, said so. One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been listening 
to what the Captain was saying, very positively remarked: "I have long 
since learned to discredit everything told by an Indian. I never knew one 
to tell the truth. This imp of Satan has been lying to the Major, and to 
me his object is very transparent. He knows a better ford than the one 
below us." A comrade laughingly observed: "Perhaps you can find it for the 
Major, and help him give us an evening ride; I have had all the exercise I 
need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf." Without a reply, Tunnehill 
mounted his little black mule and left at a gallop. He returned in a short 
time, at the same rapid gate, but was in a sorry plight. The mule and 
rider had unexpectedly taken a plunge bath in the ice-cold waters of the 
Merced. As such mishaps excited but little sympathy, Tunnehill was greeted 
with: "Hallo! what's the matter, comrade?" "Where do you get your washing 
done?" "Been trying to cool off that frisky animal, have you?" "Old Ten-ie-
ya's canyon is not in as hot a place as we supposed, is it?" "How about 
the reliability of the Indian race?" To all these bantering jokes, though 
in an uncomfortable plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied: "I 
am all right! I believe in orthodox immersion, but this kind of baptism 
has only confirmed me in previous convictions." The shivering mule was 
rubbed, blanketed, and provided for, before his master attended to his own 
comfort, and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a way across 
the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and 

Page 59

both were carried for some distance down the raging torrent.

[image caption: BRIDAL VEIL FALL. (630 feet in height.)]

After supper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plentifully provided 
for, we gathered around the burning logs of oak and pine, found near our 
camp. The hearty supper and cheerful blaze created a general good feeling. 
Social converse and anecdotes--mingled with jokes--were freely exchanged, 
as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes and warmed ourselves preparatory to 
seeking further refreshment in sleep. While thus engaged, I retained a 
full 

Page 60

consciousness of our locality; for being in close proximity to the huge 
cliff that had so attracted my attention, my mind was frequently drawn 
away from my comrades. After the jollity of the camp had somewhat 
subsided, the valley became the topic of conversation around our camp 
fire. None of us at that time, surmised the extreme vastness of those 
cliffs; although before dark, we had seen El Capitan looking down upon our 
camp, while the "Bridal Veil" was being wafted in the breeze. Many of us 
felt the mysterious grandeur of the scenery, as defined by our limited 
opportunity to study it. I had--previous to my descent with the Major--
observed the towering height above us of the old "Rock Chief," and 
noticing the length of the steep descent into the valley, had at least 
some idea of its solemn immensity.

It may appear sentimental, but the coarse jokes of the careless, and the 
indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred my more devout feelings, 
while this subject was a matter of general conversation; as if a sacred 
subject had been ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power of Deity 
disregarded. After relating my observations from the "Old Bear Valley 
Trail," I suggested that this valley should have an appropriate name by 
which to designate it, and in a tone of pleasantry, said to Tunnehill, who 
was drying his wet clothing by our fire, "You are the first white man that 
ever received any form of baptism in this valley, and you should be 
considered the proper person to give a baptismal name to the valley 
itself." He replied, "If whisky can be provided for such a ceremony, I 
shall be happy to participate; but if it is to be another cold water 
affair, I have no desire to take a hand. I have done enough in that line 
for tonight." Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time changed the 
subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some one remarked, "I 
like Bunnell's suggestion of giving this 

Page 61

valley a name, and to-night is a good time to do it." "All right--if you 
have got one, show your hand," was the response of another. Different 
names were proposed, but none were satisfactory to a majority of our 
circle. Some romantic and foreign names were offered, but I observed that 
a very large number were canonical and Scripture names. From this I 
inferred that I was not the only one in whom religious emotions or 
thoughts had been aroused by the mysterious power of the surrounding 
scenery.

As I did not take a fancy to any of the names proposed, I remarked that 
"an American name would be the most appropriate;" that "I could not see 
any necessity for going to a foreign country for a name for American 
scenery--the grandest that had ever yet been looked upon. That it would be 
better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange and inexpressive 
one; that the name of the tribe who had occupied it, would be more 
appropriate than any I had heard suggested." I then proposed "that we give 
the valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was suggestive, euphonious, and 
certainly American; that by so doing, the name of the tribe of Indians 
which we met leaving their homes in this valley, perhaps never to return, 
would be perpetuated." I was here interrupted by Mr. Tunnehill, who 
impatiently exclaimed: "Devil take the Indians and their names! Why should 
we honor these vagabond murderers by perpetuating their name?" Another 
said: "I agree with Tunnehill; --the Indians and their names. Mad 
Anthony's plan for me! Let's call this Paradise Valley." In reply, I said 
to the last speaker, "Still, for a young man with such religious 
tendencies they would be good objects on which to develop your 
Christianity." Unexpectedly, a hearty laugh was raised, which broke up 
further discussion, and before opportunity was given for any others to 
object to the name, John O'Neal, a rollicking Texan of 

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Capt. Boling's company, vociferously announced to the whole camp the 
subject of our discussion, by saying, "Hear ye! Hear ye! Hear ye! A vote 
will now be taken to decide what name shall be given to this valley." The 
question of giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and upon 
a viva voce vote being taken, it was almost unanimously adopted. The name 
that was there and thus adopted by us, while seated around our camp fires, 
on the first visit of a white man to this remarkable locality, is the name 
by which it is now known to the world.

At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it (a grizzly bear) 
was not generally known to our battalion, although "the grizzlies" was 
frequently used to designate this tribe. Neither was it pronounced with 
uniformity. For a correct pronunciation, Major Savage was our best 
authority. He could speak the dialects of most of the mountain tribes in 
this part of California, but he confessed that he could not readily 
understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide, as they appeared to speak a Pai-
ute jargon.

Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our "Master of
Ceremonies," but approvingly participated in our proceedings, and told us 
that the name was Yo-sem-i-ty, as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or O-soom-i-ty, 
as pronounced by some other bands; and that it signified a full-grown 
grizzly bear. He further stated, that the name was given to old Ten-ie-
ya's band, because of their lawless and predatory character.

As I had observed that the different tribes in Mariposa County differed 
somewhat in the pronunciation of this name, I asked an explanation of the 
fact. With a smile and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing him, the 
Major replied: "They only differ, as do the Swedes, Danes and Norwegians, 
or as in the different Shires of England; but you know well enough how 
similar in sound words may 

Page 63

be of entirely different meaning, and how much depends on accent. I have 
found this to be the greatest difficulty a learner has to contend with."

After the name had been decided upon, the Major narrated some of his 
experiences in the use of the general "sign language"--as a Rocky Mountain 
man--and his practice of it when he first came among the California 
Indians, until he had acquired their language. The Major regarded the Kah-
we-ah, as the parent language of the San-Joaquin Valley Indians, while 
that in use by the other mountain tribes in their vicinity, were but so 
many dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more Northern tribes. When we 
sought our repose, it was with feelings of quiet satisfaction that I 
wrapped myself in my blankets, and soundly slept.

I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular narrative of the 
incidents of our expedition, to consider some matters relative to the name 
"Yosemity." This was the form of orthography and pronunciation originally 
in use by our battalion. Lieutenant Moore, of the U.S.A. in his report of 
an expedition to the Valley in 1852, substituted e as the terminal letter, 
in place of y, in use by us; no doubt thinking the use of e more 
scholarly, or perhaps supposing Yosemite to be of Spanish derivation. This 
orthography has been adopted, and is in general use, but the proper 
pronunciation, as a consequence, is not always attainable to the general 
reader.

Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned from Major Savage that 
Ten-ei-ya repudiated the name for the Valley, but proudly acknowledged it 
as the designation of his band, claiming that "when he was a young chief, 
this name had been selected because they occupied the mountains and 
valleys which were the favorite resort of the Grizzly Bears, and because 
his people were expert in 

Page 64

killing them. That his tribe had adopted the name because those who had 
bestowed it were afraid of the 'the Grizzlies' and feared his band."

It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band to which the 
name Yosemite had been given, had originally been formed and was then 
composed of outlaws or refugees from other tribes. That nearly all were 
descendants of the neighboring tribes on both sides of "Kay-o-pha," or " 
Skye Mountains;" the "High Sierras."

Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and responded rather 
loftily: "I am the descendant of an Ah-wah-ne-chee chief. His people lived 
in the mountains and valley where my people have lived. The valley was 
then called Ah-wah-nee. Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the dwellers in Ahwahnee."

I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya's ancestors. His 
statement was to the effect, that the Ah-wah-ne-chees had many years ago 
been a large tribe, and lived in territory now claimed by him and his 
people. That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably small-pox or 
measles), nearly all had been destroyed. The survivors of the band fled 
from the valley and joined other tribes. For years afterward, the country 
was uninhabited; but few of the extinct tribe ever visited it, and from a 
superstitious fear, it was avoided. Some of his ancestors had gone to the 
Mono tribe and been adopted by them. His father had taken a wife from that 
tribe. His mother was a Mono woman, and he had lived with her people while 
young. Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, with some of his father's tribe had visited 
the valley, and claimed it as their birth-right. He thus became the 
founder of the new tribe or band, which has since been called the 
"Yosemite."

It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage, as to the origin 
of the name as applicable to Ten-ie-ya's 

Page 65

band, was traditional with his informants, but I give credit to Ten-ie-
ya's own history of his tribe as most probable.

From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that it is not uncommon 
for them to change the names of persons or localities after some 
remarkable event in the history of either. It would not, therefore, appear 
strange that Ten-ie-ya should have adopted another name for his band. I 
was unable to fix upon any definite date at which the Ah-wah-ne-chees 
became extinct as a tribe, but from the fact that some of the Yosemites 
claimed to be direct descendants, the time could not have been as long as 
would be inferred from their descriptions. When these facts were 
communicated to Captain Boling, and Ah-wah-ne was ascertained to be the 
classical name, the Captain said that name was all right enough for 
history or poetry, but that we could not now change the name Yosemite, nor 
was it desirable to do so. I made every effort to ascertain the 
signification of Ah-wah-ne, but could never fully satisfy myself, as I 
received different interpretations at different times. In endeavoring to 
ascertain from Ten-ie-ya his explanation of the name, he, by the motion of 
his hands, indicated depth, while trying to illustrate the name, at the 
same time plucking grass which he held up before me. From these " signs " 
I inferred that it must mean the deep grassy valley. Still, it may not 
mean that. Sandino was unable to give its true signification, saying by 
way of explanation that Ah-wah-ne was a name of the old tribe, that he did 
not know how to translate. Major Savage also said that Ten-ie-ya and a few 
of the old Indians in his band used words which he did not fully 
understand, and which the others could neither use nor explain.

The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of almost every tribe 
around them; and even words of Spanish derivation were discovered in their 
conversations.

Page 66

It is not uncommon for the mountain men and traders, to acquire a mixed 
jargon of Indian dialects, which they mingle with Spanish, French or 
English in their talk to an extent sometimes amusing. The Indians readily 
adopt words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian names in 
conversation with "Americans." This, when done by the Mission Indians, who 
perhaps have already made efforts to improve the Indian name with Mission 
Spanish, tends to mislead the inquirer after "pure" Indian names.

The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and applied Spanish names 
to objects that already had Indian designations, and in this way, new 
words are formed from corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to wrong 
interpretations. I learned from Russio, the chief interpreter, that 
sometimes more than one word was used to express the same object, and 
often one word expressed different objects. As an illustration of 
corrupted Spanish that passes for Indian, the words Oya (olla) and Hoya, 
may be taken. Oya signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole. From these 
words the Mission Indians have formed "Loya," which is used to designate 
camp grounds where holes in the rocks may be found near, in which to 
pulverize acorns, grass seeds, &c., as well as to the "Sentinal Rock," 
from its fancied resemblance to a water pot, or long water basket. Another 
source of difficulty, is that of representing by written characters the 
echoing gutteral sounds of some Indian words. While being aware of this, I 
can safely assert that Yosemite, is purer and better Indian than is 
Mississippi, ("Me-ze-se-be," the river that runs every where; that is, 
"Endless river) or many other names that are regarded as good if not pure 
Indian.(*)

(* According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota 
Reservation, and "Wain-ding" (the source of the wind), the best 
interpreters of the Chippewa perhaps now living, but few, if any, of the 
Chippewa names for our lakes and rivers have been preserved in their 
purity.)

Page 67

Our interpretors were, or had been, Mission Indians, who rendered the 
dialects into as good Spanish as they had at command, but rather than fail 
in their office, for want of words, they would occasionally insert one of 
their own coining. This was done, regardless of the consequences, and when 
chided, declared it was for our benefit they had done so.

Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given the valley, by 
substituting some fancied improvements. At first, I supposed these to be 
simply changes rung on Yosemite, but soon observed the earnestness of the 
sponsors in advocating the new names, in their magazine and newspaper 
articles. They claimed to have acquired the correct name from their Indian 
guides, employed on their visits to the Yosemite.

In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited the Yosemite, and 
published a description of it, and also published a lithograph of the 
Yosemite Fall. Through his energetic efforts, the valley was more fully 
advertised. He ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and tenaciously 
adhered to it for some time; though Yosemite had already crystalized.

The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper article--
disappointing to his admirers--descriptive of his travels and sojourn 
there, endeavored to dispossess both Mr. Hutchings and myself of our 
names, and named the valley Yo-Amite: probably as a peace offering to us 
both.

I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to these articles. I 
had no desire to engage in a newspaper controversy with such influences 
against me; but after solicitations from Mr. Ayers, and other friends, I 
gave the facts upon which were based editorials in the "California 
Chronicle," "Sacramento Union," the Mariposa and other papers.

Page 68

By invitation of Mr. Hutchings, I had a personal interview with him in San 
Francisco, relative to this matter, and at his request furnished some of 
the incidents connected with our expedition against the Indians, as 
hereinbefore narrated. These he published in his magazine, and afterwards 
in his "Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California."

This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certified to by two 
members of the State legislature--James M. Roan and George H. Crenshaw--as 
follows: "We, the undersigned, having been members of the same company, 
and through most of the scenes depicted by Doctor Bunnell, have no 
hesitation in saying that the article above is correct."

Mr. Hutchings says: "We cheerfully give place to the above communication, 
that the public may learn how and by whom this remarkable valley was first 
visited and named; and, although we have differed with the writer and 
others concerning the name given, as explained in several articles that 
have appeared at different times in the several newspapers of the day, in 
which Yo-Hamite was preferred; yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to 
visit the valley, we most willingly accord to him the right of giving it 
whatsoever name he pleases."

Mr. Hutchings then goes on to explain how he obtained the name Yo-Hamite 
from his Indian guide Kos-sum; that its correctness was affirmed by John 
Hunt, previous to the publication of the lithograph of the great falls, 
etc., and during this explanation, says: "Up to this time we had never 
heard or known any other name than Yosemite;" and farther on in a manly 
way says: "Had we before known that Doctor Bunnell and his party were the 
first whites who ever entered the valley (although we have the honor of 
being the first in later years to visit it and call public

Page 69

attention to it), we should long ago have submitted to the name Doctor 
Bunnell had given it, as the discoverer of the valley."

After my interview with Mr. Hutchings--for I had never heard the word Yo-
Hamite until it was published by him--I asked John Hunt, the Indian trader 
referred to, where he had got the word furnished to Mr. Hutchings. John, 
with some embarrassment, said, that "Yo-Hem-i-te was the way his Indians 
pronounced the name." I asked what name? "Why, Yosemite," said John. But, 
I replied, you know that the Indian name for the valley is Ah-wah-ne! and 
the name given by us was the name of Ten-ie-ya's band? "Of course, (said 
John,) but my Indians now apply the word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the 
territory adjacent, though their name for a bear is Osoomity." John Hunt's 
squaw was called, and asked by him the meaning of the word, but confessed 
her ignorance. Mr. Cunningham was also consulted, but could give us no 
certain information; but surmised that the word had been derived from "Le-
Hamite 'The Arrowwood.'" Another said possibly from "Hem-nock," the Kah-we-
ah word for God. As to Yo-Amite, insisted on by Doctor Scott, I made no 
effort to find an interpretation of it.



Page 70

CHAPTER V.
Date of Discovery--First White Visitors--Captain Joe Walker's Statement--
Ten-ie-ya's Cunning--Indian Tradition--A lying Guide--The Ancient Squaw--
Destroying Indian Stores--Sweat-houses--The Mourner's Toilet--Sentiment 
and Reality--Return to Head-quarters.

THE date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about the 
21st of March, 1851. We were afterward assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of 
his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this valley by white 
men. Ten-ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the 
mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to see it; 
Appleton's and the People's Encyclopedias to the contrary 
notwithstanding.(*)

It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that Ten-ie-ya had 
consented to go to the commissioner's camp and make peace, intending to 
return to his mountain home as soon as the excitement from the recent 
outbreak subsided. The entrance to the Valley had ever been carefully 
guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As a part of its 
traditionary history, it was stated: "That when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe 
of his mother and went to live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very 
old 

(* Captain Joe Walker, for whom "Walker's Pass" is named, told me that he 
once passed quite near the valley on one of his mountain trips; but that 
his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the canons of both 
rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until reaching Bull 
Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the valley proper.)

Page 71

Ah-wah-ne-chee, who had been the great 'medicine man' of his tribe."

It was through the influence of this old friend of his father that Ten-ie-
ya was induced to leave the Mono tribe, and with a few of the descendants 
from the Ah-wah-nee-chees, who had been living with the Monos and Pai-
Utes, to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their chief. 
He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah-ne-chees, and by others 
who had fled from their own tribes to avoid summary Indian justice. The 
old "medicine man" was the counselor of the young chief. Not long before 
the death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wisdom, he 
assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession of Ah-wah-ne his band 
would increase in numbers and become powerful. That if he befriended those 
who sought his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to make 
war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and if he obeyed his 
counsels he would put a spell upon it that would hold it sacred for him 
and his people alone; none other would ever dare to make it their home. He 
then cautioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands (the 
Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter Ah-wah-ne, his 
tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed, or his people be taken 
captive, and he himself be the last chief in Ah-wah-ne.

For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly guarded his valley 
home, and all who sought his protection. No one ventured to enter it, 
except by his permission; all feared the "witches" there, and his 
displeasure. He had "made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them 
from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-wah-ne."

The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the mountain tribes in this 
part of California; and the 

Page 72

Ah-wah-ne-chee and Mono members of it, were of finer build and lighter 
color than those commonly called "California Digger Indians." Even the 
"Diggers" of the band, from association and the better food and air 
afforded in the mountains, had become superior to their inheritance, and 
as a tribe, the Yosemites were feared by other Indians.

The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so depressed the 
warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now become an old man, that he had 
decided to make efforts to conciliate the Americans, rather than further 
resist their occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped to save his 
valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya's cunning, the prophecies of 
the "old medicine" man have been mostly fulfilled. White horsemen have 
entered Ah-wah-ne; the tribe has been scattered and destroyed. Ten-ie-ya 
was the last chief of his people. He was killed by the chief of the Monos, 
not because of the prophecy; nor yet because of our entrance into his 
territory, but in retribution for a crime against the Mono's hospitality. 
But I must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story first.

After an early breakfast on the morning following our entrance into the 
Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; and as the word was passed to 
"fall in," we mounted and filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready to 
commence our explorations.

The water in the Merced had fallen some during the night, but the stream 
was still in appearance a raging torrent. As we were about to cross, our 
guide with earnest gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to 
cross, that if we attempted it, we would be swept down into the canyon. 
That later, we could cross without difficulty. These assertions angered 
the Major, and he told the guide that he lied; for he knew that later in 
the day the snow would melt. 

Page 73

Turning to Captain Boling he said: "I am now positive that the Indians are 
in the vicinity, and for that reason the guide would deceive us." Telling 
the young Indian to remain near his person, he gave the order to cross at 
once.

The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it without serious 
difficulty, although several repeated their morning ablutions while 
stumbling over the boulders.

The open ground on the north side was found free from snow. The trail led 
toward "El Capitan," which had from the first, been the particular object 
of my admiration.

At this time no distinctive names were known by which to designate the 
cliffs, waterfalls, or any of the especial objects of interest, and the 
imaginations of some ran wild in search of appropriate ones. None had any 
but a limited idea of the height of this cliff, and but few appeared 
conscious of the vastness of the granite wall before us; although an 
occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the imperfect 
comprehension of the grand and wonderful excited. A few of us remarked 
upon the great length of time required to pass it, and by so doing, 
probably arrived at more or less correct conclusions regarding its size.

Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue from a cluster of 
manzanita shrubs that commanded a view of the trail. On examination, the 
smoking brands indicated that it had been a picket fire, and we now felt 
assured that our presence was known and our movements watched by the 
vigilant Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly on, we discovered 
near the base of El Capitan, quite a large collection of Indian huts, 
situated near Pigeon creek. On making a hasty examination of the village 
and vicinity, no Indians could be found, but from the generally 
undisturbed condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was 
evident that the occupants had but recently left; appearances indicated 
that some of the wigwams or huts had been 

Page 74

occupied during the night Not far from the camp, upon posts, rocks, and in 
trees, was a large cache´ of acorns and other provisions.

[image caption: HALF DOME. (4,737 feet in height.)]

As the trail showed that it had been used by Indians going up, but a short 
halt was made. As we moved on, a smoke was again seen in the distance, and 
some of the more eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached 
the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to 

Page 75

the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took their places. 
These men reported that "fallen rocks" had prevented their passage up on 
the north side, and that our only course was to cross at the ford and 
follow the trail, as the low lands appeared too wet for rapid riding. 
Recrossing the Merced to the south-side, we found trails leading both up 
and down the river. A detachment was sent down to reconnoitre the open 
land below, while the main column pursued its course. The smoke we had 
seen was soon discovered to be rising from another encampment nearly south 
of the "Royal Arches;" and at the forks of the Ten-ie-ya branch of the 
Merced, near the south-west base of the "Half Dome," still another group 
of huts was brought to view.

[image caption: NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES. (3,568 feet in height.)]

These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river, which had now 
again become quite swollen; but by this time our horses and ourselves had 
become used to the icy waters, and when at times our animals lost their 
footing at the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously swam to 
the shore.

Page 76

Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that the huts here had but 
just been deserted; that they had been occupied that morning. Although a 
rigid search was made, no Indians were found. Scouting parties in charge 
of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to examine each branch 
of the valley, but this was soon found to be an impossible task to 
accomplish in one day. While exploring among the rocks that had fallen 
from the "Royal Arches" at the southwesterly base of the North Dome, my 
attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted upon some smaller ones. 
Cautiously glancing underneath, I was for a moment startled by a living 
object. Involuntarily my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I 
discovered the object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a 
countenance that could only be likened to a vivified Egyptian mummy. This 
creature exhibited no expression of alarm, and was apparently indifferent 
to hope or fear, love or hate. I hailed one of my comrades on his way to 
camp, to report to Major Savage that I had discovered a peculiar living 
ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it to eat. She was 
seated on the ground, hovering over the remnants of an almost exhausted 
fire. I replenished her supply of fuel, and waited for the Major. She 
neither spoke or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.

Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of importance from her. 
When asked where her companions were, she understood the dialect used, for 
she very curtly replied "You can hunt for them if you want to see them"! 
When asked why she was left alone, she replied "I am too old to climb the 
rocks"! The Major--forgetting the gallantry due her sex--inquired "How old 
are you?" With an ineffably scornful grunt, and a coquettish leer at the 
Major, she maintained an indignant silence. This attempt at a smile, left 
the Major in doubt as to her age. 

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[image caption: CATHEDRAL ROCKS (2,660 feet in height.)]

Subsequently, when Ten-ie-ya was interrogated as to the age of this old 
squaw, he replied that "No one knows her age. That when he was a boy, it 
was a favorite tradition of the old members of his band, that when she was 
a child, the peaks of the Sierras were but little hills." This free 
interpretation was given by the Major, while seated around the camp fire 
at night. If not reliable, it was excessively amusing to the "Boys," and 
added to the Major's popularity. On a subsequent visit to the Valley, an 
attempt was made to send the old creature to the commissioner's camp; she 
was placed on a mule and started. As 

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she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another squaw. We 
learned that she soon after departed "to the happy land in the West."

The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery of a small 
rancheria, a short distance above the "Cathedral Rocks," but the huts were 
unoccupied. They also reported the continuance of the trail down the left 
bank. The other detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians. At all 
of these localities the stores of food were abundant.

Their cache´s were principally of acorns, although many contained bay 
(California laurel), Pin˜on pine (Digger pine), and chinquepin nuts, grass 
seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched), dried worms, scorched grasshoppers, 
and what proved to be the dried larvæ of insects, which I was afterwards 
told were gathered from the waters of the lakes in and east of the Sierra 
Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that a large number of Ten-ie-ya's 
band was hidden in the cliffs or among the rocky gorges or canyons, not 
accessible to us from the knowledge we then had of their trails and 
passes. We had not the time, nor had we supplied ourselves sufficiently to 
hunt them out. It was therefore decided that the best policy was to 
destroy their huts and stores, with a view of starving them out, and of 
thus compelling them to come in and join with Ten-ie-ya and the people 
with him on the reservation. At this conclusion the destruction of their 
property was ordered, and at once commenced. While this work was in 
progress, I indulged my curiosity in examining the lodges in which had 
been left their home property, domestic, useful and ornamental. As 
compared with eastern tribes, their supplies of furniture of all kinds, 
excepting baskets, were meagre enough.

These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various patterns and for 
different uses. The large ones were made either of bark, roots of the 
Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or 

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Tule. Those made for gathering and transporting food supplies, were of 
large size and round form, with a sharp apex, into which, when inverted 
and placed upon the back, everything centres. This form of basket enables 
the carriers to keep their balance while passing over seemingly impassable 
rocks, and along the verge of dangerous precipices. Other baskets found 
served as water buckets. Others again of various sizes were used as cups 
and soup bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass, 
closely woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boiling food. The 
boiling was effected by hot stones being continually plunged into the 
liquid mass, until the desired result was obtained.

The water baskets were also made of "wire-grass;" being porous, 
evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous earthen water-jars of 
Mexico, and other hot countries, the water put into them is kept cool by 
evaporation. There were also found at some of the encampments, robes or 
blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from skins of water-
fowl. There were also ornaments and musical instruments of a rude 
character. The instruments were drums and flageolets. The ornaments were 
of bone, bears' claws, birds' bills and feathers. The thread used by these 
Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner bark of a species of 
the asclepias or milk-weed, by ingeniously suspending a stone to the 
fibre, and whirling it with great rapidity. Sinews are chiefly used for 
sewing skins, for covering their bows and feathering their arrows. Their 
fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so attached near 
the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed in a socket in the pole, 
was pulled out by the struggles of the fish, the tine and cord would hold 
it as securely as though held by a barbed hook.

There were many things found that only an Indian could 

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possibly use, and which it would be useless for me to attempt to describe; 
such, for instance, as stag-horn hammers, deer prong punches (for making 
arrow-heads), obsidian, pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern 
slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the hurry of their 
departure they had left everything. The numerous bones of animals 
scattered about the camps, indicated their love of horse-flesh as a diet.

Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of horses and mules, 
as well as other animals, eaten by these savages. Deers and bears were 
frequently driven into the valley during their seasons of migration, and 
were killed by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that 
commanded their runways or trails; but their chief dependence for meat was 
upon horseflesh.

Among the relics of stolen property were many things recognized by our 
"boys," while applying the torch and giving all to the flames. A comrade 
discovered a bridle and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him 
with a mule while waiting for the commissioners to inquire into the cause 
of the war with the Indians! No animals of any kind were kept by the 
Yosemites for any length of time except dogs, and they are quite often 
sacrificed to gratify their pride and appetite, in a dog feast. Their 
highest estimate of animals is only as an article of food. Those stolen 
from the settlers were not kept for their usefulness, except as additional 
camp supplies. The acorns found were alone estimated at from four to six 
hundred bushels.

During our explorations we were on every side astonished at the colossal 
representations of cliffs, rocky canyons and water-falls which constantly 
challenged our attention and admiration.

Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or 

Page 81

other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by our eyes. Tired 
and almost exhausted in the fruitless search for Indians, the footmen 
returned to the place at which they had left their horses in the canyons, 
and in very thankfulness caressed them with delight.

In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored and names given 
to prominent objects and localities.

While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportunity to examine some 
of the numerous sweat-houses noticed on the bank of the Merced, below a 
large camp near the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may not be out of 
place to here give a few words in description of these conveniences of a 
permanent Indian encampment, and the uses for which they are considered a 
necessity.

The remains of these structures are sometimes mistaken for Tumuli. They 
were constructed of poles, bark, grass and mud. The frame-work of poles is 
first covered with bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud--as tenacious as 
the soil will admit of--is spread thickly over it. The structure is in the 
form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound. After being dried by a 
slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is covered with earth of a sufficient 
depth to shed the rain from without, and prevent the escape of heat from 
within. A small opening for ingress and egress is left; this comprises the 
extent of the house when complete, and ready for use. These sweat-baths 
are used as a luxury, as a curative for disease, and as a convenience for 
cleansing the skin, when necessity demands it, although the Indian race is 
not noted for cleanliness.

As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed by civilized 
people, than are these baths by the Mountain Indians. I have seen a half 
dozen or more enter one of these rudely constructed sweat-houses, through 
the small aperture left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken in, the 

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aperture is closed until suffocation would seem impending, when they would 
crawl out reeking with perspiration, and with a shout, spring like 
acrobats into the cold waters of the stream. As a remedial agent for 
disease, the same course is pursued, though varied at times by the burning 
and inhalation of resinous boughs and herbs.

In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities, hot air alone is 
generally used. If an Indian had passed the usual period for mourning for 
a relative, and the adhesive pitch too tenaciously clung to his no longer 
sorrowful countenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, 
until the cleansing had become complete.

The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones and ashes of their 
dead relative or friend. These remains of the funeral pyre, with the 
charcoal, are pulverized and mixed with the resin of the pine. This 
hideous mixture is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it 
wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last nearly a year; 
although the young--either from a super-abundance of vitality, excessive 
reparative powers of the skin, or from powers of will--seldom mourn so 
long. When the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not a 
scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely; but a mother 
will seldom remove pitch or garment until both are nearly worn out.

In their camps were found articles from the miners' camps, and from the 
unguarded "ranchman." There was no lack of evidence that the Indians who 
had deserted their villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the 
soubriquet of "the Grizzlies," "the lawless."

Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading from the different 
camps, all traces were soon lost among the rocks at the base of the 
cliffs. The debris or talus not only afforded places for temporary 
concealment, but 

Page 83

provided facilities for escape without betraying the direction. If by 
chance a trail was followed for a while, it would at last be traced to 
some apparently inaccessible ledge, or to the foot of some slippery 
depression in the walls, up which we did not venture to climb. While 
scouting up the Ten-ie-ya canyon, above Mirror Lake, I struck the fresh 
trail of quite a large number of Indians. Leaving our horses, a few of us 
followed up the tracks until they were lost in the ascent up the cliff. By 
careful search they were again found and followed until finally they 
hopelessly disappeared.

Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, although we 
were convinced that the Indians had in some way passed up the cliff.

During this time, and while descending to the valley, I partly realized 
the great height of the cliffs and high fall. I had observed the height we 
were compelled to climb before the Talus had been overcome, though from 
below this appeared insignificant, and after reaching the summit of our 
ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by instituting these 
comparisons while ascending and descending, that I was able to form a 
better judgment of altitude; for while entering the valley, --although, as 
before stated, I had observed the towering height of El Capitan, --my mind 
had been so preoccupied with the marvelous, that comparison had scarcely 
performed its proper function.

The level of the valley proper now appeared quite distant as we looked 
down upon it, and objects much less than full size. As night was fast 
approaching, and a storm threatened, we returned down the trail and took 
our course for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove of oaks 
near the mouth of "Indian canyon."

While on our way down, looking across to and up the south or Glacier 
canyon, I noticed its beautiful fall, and planned an excursion for the 
morrow. I almost forgot my 

Page 84

fatigue, in admiration of the solemn grandeur within my view; the lofty 
walls, the towering domes and numerous water-falls; their misty spray 
blending with the clouds settling down from the higher mountains.

[image caption: GLACIER FALL. (550 feet in height.)]

The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, for beside 
fording the Merced several times, the numerous branches pouring over 
cliffs and down ravines from the melting snow, rendered the overflow of 
the bottom lands so constant that we were often compelled to splash 
through the water-courses that later would be dry. These torrents of cold 
water, commanded more especial attention, and excited more comment than 
did the grandeur of the cliffs and water-falls. We were not a party of 
tourists, seeking recreation, nor philosophers investigating the 
operations of nature. Our business there was to find Indians who were 
endeavoring to escape from our charitable intentions toward them. But very 
few of the volunteers seemed to have any appreciation of the wonderful 
proportions of the enclosing 

Page 85

granite rocks; their curiosity had been to see the stronghold of the 
enemy, and the general verdict was that it was gloomy enough.

Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp and reported their 
failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in with their detachments just at 
dark, from their tiresome explorations of the southern branches. Only a 
small squad of their commands climbed above the Vernal and Nevada falls; 
and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains above the Nevada Fall, 
they retraced their steps through the showering mist of the Vernal, and 
joined their comrades, who had already started down its rocky gorge. These 
men found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the Vernal 
and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite. They reported what they had 
seen to their assembled comrades at the evening camp-fires. Their names 
have now passed from my memory--not having had an intimate personal 
acquaintance with them--for according to my recollection they belonged to 
the company of Capt. Dill.

While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage with a detachment who 
had been burning a large cache´ located in the fork, and another small one 
below the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held in reserve for 
possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames were leaping 
high. Observing his movements for a few moments we rode up and made report 
of our unsuccessful efforts. I briefly, but with some enthusiasm, 
described my view from the cliff up the North canyon, the Mirror Lake view 
of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South canyon and the view of the distant 
South Dome. I volunteered a suggestion that some new tactics would have to 
be devised be fore we should be able to corral the "Grizzlies" or "smoke 
them out." The Major looked up from the charred mass of burning acorns, 
and as he glanced down the smoky 

Page 86

valley, said: "This affords us the best prospect of any yet discovered; 
just look!" "Splendid!" I promptly replied, Yo-sem-i-te must be 
beautifully grand a few weeks later, when the foliage and flowers are at 
their prime, and the rush of water has somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and 
water-falls I never saw before, and I doubt if they exist in any other 
place."

[image caption: VERNAL FALL. (350 feet in height.)]

I was surprised and somewhat irritated by the hearty laugh with which my 
reply was greeted. The Major caught the expression of my eye and shrugged 
his shoulders as he hastily said: "I suppose that is all right, Doctor, 
about the water-falls, &c., for there are enough of them here for one 
locality, as we have all discovered; but my remark was not in reference to 
the scenery, but the prospect of the Indians being starved out, and of 
their coming in to sue for peace. We have all been more or less wet since 
we rolled up our blankets this morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, 
but 

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[image caption: NEVADA FALL. (600 feet in height.)]

the prospect that it offers to my mind of smoking out the Indians, is more 
agreeable to me than its warmth or all the scenery in creation. I know, 
Doc., that there is a good deal of iron in you, but there is also 
considerable sentiment, and I am not in a very sentimental mood." I 
replied that I did not think that any of us felt very much like making 
love or writing poetry, but that Ten-ie-ya's remark to him about the 
"Great Spirit" providing so bountifully for his people, had several times 
occurred to me since entering here, and that no doubt to Ten-ie-ya, this 
was a veritable Indian paradise. "Well," said the Major, "as far as that 
is concerned, although I have not carried a Bible with me since I became a 
mountain-man, I remember well enough that Satan entered paradise and did 
all the mischief he could, but I intend to be a bigger devil in this 
Indian paradise 

Page 88

than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don't intend to crawl out, 
either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but let me say while upon the subject, 
that we are in no condition to judge fairly of this valley. The annoyances 
and disappointments of a fruitless search, together with the certainty of 
a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beautiful scenery appear to me 
gloomy enough. In a word, it is what we supposed it to be before seeing 
it, a h--of a place. The valley, no doubt, will always be a wonder for its 
grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but hemmed in by walls of rock, your 
vision turned in, as it were, upon yourself--a residence here would be 
anything but desirable for me. Any one of the Rocky Mountain parks would 
be preferable, while the ease with which buffalo, black-tail and big-horn 
could be provided in the "Rockies" would, in comparison, make your Indian 
paradise anything but desirable, even for these Indians."

The more practical tone and views of the Major dampened the ardor of my 
fancy in investing the valley with all desirable qualities, but as we 
compared with each other the experiences of the day, it was very clear 
that the half had not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would 
be required before any one person could say that he had seen the Yosemite. 
It will probably be as well for me to say here that though Major Savage 
commanded the first expedition to the valley, he never revisited it, and 
died without ever having seen the Vernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the 
views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those seen from the 
valley and from the old Indian trail on our first entrance.

We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with dry wood by the 
provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the threatening appearances of 
another snow-storm. Some rude shelters of poles and brush were thrown up 
around the 

Page 89

fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the whole serving as an 
improvement on our bivouac accomodations. The night was colder than the 
previous one, for the wind was coming down the canyons of the snowy 
Sierras. The fires were lavishly piled with the dry oak wood, which sent 
out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of the day were forgotten 
in the hilarity with which supper was devoured by the hungry scouts while 
steaming in their wet garments. After supper Major Savage announced that 
"from the very extensive draft on the commissary stores just made, it was 
necessary to return to the 'South Fork.'" He said that it would be 
advisable for us to return, as we were not in a condition to endure delay 
if the threatened storm should prove to be a severe one; and ordered both 
Captains Boling and Dill to have their companies ready for the march at 
daylight the next morning.

While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to a night's rest, the 
incidents of our observations during the day were interchanged. The 
probable heights of the cliffs was discussed. One official estimated "El 
Capitan" at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was in no 
mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a sheer perpendicularity of at 
least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H. Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of 
Geneva, N.Y., --who had traveled quite extensively in Europe, --and a 
French gentleman, Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer, who had joined us 
for the sake of adventure, gave me their opinions that my estimate was 
none too high; that it was probable that I was far below a correct 
measurement, for when there was so much sameness of height the judgment 
could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence instrumental 
measurements alone could be relied on. Time has demonstrated the 
correctness of their opinions. These gentlemen were men of education and 
practical experience 

Page 90

in observing the heights of objects of which measurement had been made, 
and quietly reminded their auditors that it was difficult to measure such 
massive objects with the eye alone. That some author had said: "But few 
persons have a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet."

I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the subject of the valley, 
and expressed myself in such a positive manner that the "enfant terrible" 
of the company derisively asked if I was given to exaggeration before I 
became an "Indian fighter." From my ardor in description, and admiration 
of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed "Yosemity" by some of the 
battalion. It was customary among the mountain men and miners to prefix 
distinctive names. From this hint I became less expressive, when 
conversing on matters relating to the valley. My self-respect caused me to 
talk less among my comrades generally, but with intimate friends the 
subject was always an open one, and my estimates of heights were never 
reduced.

Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but on our expressing a 
design to revisit the valley at some future time, he assured us that there 
was a probability of our being fully gratified, for if the renegades did 
not voluntarily come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the 
battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the rocks if we then 
desired. That we should first escort our "captives" to the commissioners' 
camp on the Fresno; that by the time we returned to the valley the trails 
would be clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our 
satisfaction. Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: "The rocks will 
probably keep, but you will not find all of these immense water-powers."

Notwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheerfully wrapped 
ourselves in our blankets and slept, until awakened by the guard; for 
there had been no disturbance 

Page 91

during the night. The snow had fallen only to about the depth of an inch 
in the valley, but the storm still continued.

By early dawn "all ready" was announced, and we started back without 
having seen any of the Indian race except our useless guide and the old 
squaw. Major Savage rode at the head of the column, retracing our trail, 
rather than attempt to follow down the south side. The water was 
relatively low in the early morning, and the fords were passed without 
difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like saluting, as I would some 
dignified acquaintance.

The cache´s below were yet smouldering, but the lodges had disappeared.

At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail over rocks that 
could not be re-ascended with animals. To return, we were compelled to 
remove a few obstructions of poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the 
Indians to prevent the escape of the animals stolen and driven down. 
Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or their ranges.

After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encountered. The snow 
had drifted into the hollows, but had not to any extent obscured the 
trail, which we now found quite hard. We reached the camp earlier in the 
day than we had reason to expect. During these three days of absence from 
headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially explored one of the 
most remarkable of the geographical wonders of the world.