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Discovery of the Yosemite - Chapters I-II
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CHAPTER I.
Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley--Major Savage
and Savages--Whiskey, wrangling and War--Skinned Alive--A brisk Fight--
Repulse--Another Fight, and Conflagration.
DURING the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old Bear Valley trail
from Ridley's ferry, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted to
the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Nevadas. In the distance an
immense cliff loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Although
familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon this awe-
inspiring column with wonder and admiration. While vainly endeavoring to
realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it
with reluctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the impressions
of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory. Whenever an opportunity
afforded, I made inquiries concerning the scenery of that locality. But
few of the miners had noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a
second visit to Ridley's, not long after, that towering mountain which had
so profoundly interested me was invisible, an intervening haze obscuring
it from view. A year or more passed before the mysteries of this wonderful
land were satisfactorily solved.
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During the winter of 1850-51, I was attached to an expedition that made
the first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Valley. While
entering it, I saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision at
Ridley's ferry, forty miles away, was before me. The locality of the
mysterious cliff was there revealed--its proportions enlarged and
perfected.
The discovery of this remarkable region was an event intimately connected
with the history of the early settlement of that portion of California.
During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that date included
all the territory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced rivers
within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became very troublesome to
the miners and settlers. Their depredations and murderous assaults were
continued until the arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in
1851, when the general government assumed control over them. Through the
management of the commissioners, treaties were made, and many of these
Indians were transferred to locations reserved for their special occupancy.
It was in the early days of the operations of this commission that the
Yosemite Valley was first entered by a command virtually employed to
perform the special police duties of capturing and bringing the Indians
before these representatives of the government, in order that treaties
might be made with them. These wards of the general government were
provided with supplies at the expense of the public treasury: provided
that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for them.
My recollections of those early days are from personal observations and
information derived from the earlier settlers of the San Joaquin valley,
with whom I was personally acquainted in the mining camps, and through
business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of
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1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage, a trader, who in
1849-50 was located in the mountains near the mouth of the South Fork of
the Merced river, some fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley.
At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a party of native
Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his trading post and mining camp were
attacked by a band of the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed
the territory in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off. Their
real object, however, was plunder. They were considered treacherous and
dangerous, and were very troublesome to the miners generally.
Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and drove off the
marauders, but from this occurrence he no longer deemed this location
desirable. Being fully aware of the murderous propensities of his
assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the
Aqua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon after, he
established a branch post on the Fresno, where the mining prospects became
most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that stream. This branch
station was placed in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.
At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosperous business. He
exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his
Indian miners. The white miners and prospecting parties also submitted to
his demands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. The value
of his patrons' time was thus made a source of revenue. As the season
advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but
in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was
gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him that a combination
was maturing among the mountain Indians, to kill or drive all the white
men from the
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country, and plunder them of their property. To strengthen his influence
over the principal tribes, Savage had, according to the custom of many
mountain men, taken wives from among them, supposing his personal safety
would be somewhat improved by so doing. This is the old story of the
prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian miners, that the
Yosemites threatened to come down on him again for the purpose of plunder,
and that they were urging other tribes to join them.
These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cautioned the miners
to guard against marauders.
He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that hostilities
were threatened, and advised preparations against a surprise.
At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indifference, but
instructed the men in his employ to be continually on their guard in his
absence. Stating that he was going to "the Bay" for a stock of goods, he
started for San Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief
of some note and influence who professed great friendship.
This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the leading spirits in
arousing hostilities against the whites.
Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Savage, the trader had
doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had no fears of personal injury, he
carefully kept his suspicions to himself. The real object Savage had in
making this trip was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold
which he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with the
futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He hoped that a visit to
Stockton and San Francisco, where Jose could see the numbers and
superiority of the whites, would so impress him that on his return to the
mountains his report would deter the Indians from their proposed
hostilities.
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The trip was made without any incidents of importance, but, to Savage's
disappointment and regret, Jose developed an instinctive love for whiskey,
and having been liberally supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that
favorite Indian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time he
was in the city.
Becoming disgusted with Jose's frequent intoxication, Savage expressed in
emphatic terms his disapprobation of such a course. Jose at once became
greatly excited, and forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive
epithets, and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the whites.
Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled the drunken
Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently sober, and from that time
maintained a silent and dignified demeanor. After witnessing the
celebration of the admission of the State into the Union--which by
appointment occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admission
passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year--and making
arrangements to have goods forwarded as he should order them, Savage
started back with his dusky retainers for Mariposa. On his arrival at
Quartzberg, he learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute
from the immigrants passing through their territory, and soon after his
return a man by the name of Moore was killed not far from his Mariposa
Station. From the information here received, and reported murders of
emigrants, he scented danger to himself. Learning that the Indians were
too numerous at "Cassady's Bar," on the San Joaquin, and in the vicinity
of his Fresno Station, he at once, with characteristic promptness and
courage, took his course direct to that post. He found, on arriving there,
that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as if for trading
purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee
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and Vow-ches-ter, two Indian chiefs known to be friendly. The trader had
taken two of his wives from their tribes.
Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leaving his squaws to
confer with their friends and to provide for their own accommodations, he
quietly examined the memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on
hand. With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the
business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him that Indians from
different tribes had come in but had brought but little gold. To assure
himself of the progress made by the Indians in forming a union among
themselves, he called those present around him in front of his store, and
passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay. Savage said:
"I know that all about me are my friends, and as a friend to all, I wish
to have a talk with you before I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from
which I have been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until I
had warned you.
"I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be friends with the white
men, and that they are trying to unite the different tribes for the
purpose of a war. It is better for the Indians and white men to be
friends. If the Indians make war on the white men, every tribe will be
exterminated; not one will be left. I have just been where the white men
are more numerous than the wasps and ants; and if war is made and the
Americans are aroused to anger, every Indian engaged in the war will be
killed before the whites will be satisfied." In a firm and impressive
manner Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and the
advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse. His knowledge of
Indian language was sufficient to make his remarks clearly understood, and
they were apparently well received.
Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate
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any of his schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his speech: "A
chief who has returned with me from the place where the white men are so
numerous, can tell that what I have said is true--Jose Juarez--you all
know, and will believe him when he tells you the white men are more
powerful than the Indians."
The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped forward, with
more assurance than he had shown since the belligerent occurrence at the
bay, and spoke with more energy than Savage had anticipated. He commenced
by saying: "Our brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth;
we have seen many people; the white men are very numerous; but the white
men we saw on our visit are of many tribes; they are not like the tribe
that dig gold in the mountains." He then gave an absurd description of
what he had seen while below, and said: "Those white tribes will not come
to the mountains. They will not help the gold diggers if the Indians make
war against them. If the gold diggers go to the white tribes in the big
village they give their gold for strong water and games; when they have no
more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the mountains
with clubs. They strike them down (referring to the police), as your white
relative struck me while I was with him." (His vindictive glance assured
Savage that the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.) "The white tribes
will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains. They cannot bring
their big ships and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them. They
will not injure us."
To Savage's extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated an immediate war
upon the whites, assuring his listeners that, as all the territory
belonged to the Indians, if the tribes would unite the whole tribe of gold-
diggers could be easily driven from their country; but, if the gold-
diggers should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make
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war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In his speech Jose
evinced a keenness of observation inconsistant with his apparent drunken
stupidity. Savage had thought this stupidity sometimes assumed. He now
felt assured that the chief had expected thereby to learn his plans. To
the writer there seems to be nothing inconsistent with Indian craft,
keenness of observation and love of revenge in Jose's conduct, though he
was frequently drunk while at "the bay." While Jose was speaking other
Indians had joined the circle around him. Their expressions of approval
indicated the effects of his speech. During this time Savage had been
seated on a log in front of the store, a quiet listener. When Jose
concluded, the trader arose, and stepping forward, calmly addressed the
relatives of his wives and the Indians in whom he still felt confidence.
The earnest and positive speech of the cunning chief had greatly surprised
him; he was somewhat discouraged at the approval with which it had been
received; but with great self-possession, he replied, "I have listened
very attentively to what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has
been saying to you. I have heard all he has said. He has told you of many
things that he saw. He has told you some truth. He has told of many things
which he knows nothing about. He has told you of things he saw in his
dreams, while "strong water" made him sleep. The white men we saw there
are all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here among the mountains. He
has told you he saw white men that were pale, and had tall hats on their
heads, with clothing different from the gold-diggers. This was truth, but
they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the clothing of the
gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains, and if war is made on the gold-
diggers, the white men will come and fight against the Indians. Their
numbers will be so great, that every tribe will be destroyed that joins in
a war against them."
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Jose observing the effects of these statements, excitedly interrupted
Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: "He is telling you words that
are not true. His tongue is forked and crooked. He is telling lies to his
Indian relatives. This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not
our brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the Indians from
their country. We can now drive them from among us, and if the other white
tribes should come to their help, we will go to the mountains; if they
follow after us, they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will
kill them with arrows and with rocks." While Jose was thus vociferously
haranguing, other Indians came into the grounds, and the crisis was
approaching. As Jose Juarez ended his speech, Jose Rey, another
influential chief and prominent leader, walked proudly into the now
enlarged circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas, among
whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He keenly glanced about him, and assuming
a grandly tragic style, at once commenced a speech by saying: "My people
are now ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers. If all the
tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will drive all the white
men from our mountains. If all the tribes will go together, the white men
will run from us, and leave their property behind them. The tribes who
join in with my people will be the first to secure the property of the
gold-diggers."
The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Rey controlled the attention of the
Indians. This appeal to their cupidity interested them; a common desire
for plunder would be the strongest inducement to unite against the whites.
Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at this impromptu
council he had himself organized, and at once withdrew to prepare for the
hostilities he was sure would soon follow. As soon as the Indians
dispersed, he
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started with his squaws for home, and again gave the settlers warning of
what was threatened and would soon be attempted.
These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage. The incidents of the
council at the Fresno Station were given during the familiar conversations
of our intimate acquaintanceship. The Indian speeches here quoted are like
all others of their kind, really but poor imitations. The Indian is very
figurative in his language. If a literal translation were attempted his
speeches would seem so disjointed and inverted in their methods of
expression, that their signification could scarcely be understood; hence
only the substance is here given.
The reports from Savage were considered by the miners and settlers as
absurd. It was generally known that mountain men of Savage's class were
inclined to adopt the vagaries and superstitions of the Indians with whom
they were associated; and therefore but little attention was given to the
trader's warnings. It was believed that he had listened to the blatant
palaver of a few vagabond "Digger Indians," and that the threatened
hostilities were only a quarrel between Savage and his Indian miners, or
with some of his Indian associates. Cassady, a rival trader, especially
scoffed at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard himself or
establishment. The settlers of Indian Gulch and Quartzberg were, however,
soon after startled by a report brought by one of Savage's men called
"Long-haired Brown," that the traders' store on the Fresno had been
robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself. Brown had been
warned by an Indian he had favored, known as Polonio-Arosa, but
notwithstanding this aid, he had to take the chances of a vigorous pursuit.
Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, and as he said, had
dodged their arrows and distanced his
Page 6b
pursuers in the race. Close upon the heels of this report, came a rumor
from the miners' camp on Mariposa creek, that Savage's establishment at
that place had also been plundered and burned, and all connected with it
killed. This report was soon after corrected by the appearance of the
trader at Quartzberg. Savage was highly offended at the indifference with
which his cautions had been received at Mariposa, and by the county
authorities, then located at Agua-Fria. He stated that his wives had
assured him that a raid was about to be made on his establishment, and
warned him of the danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from
personal friends at Horse Shoe Bend--where he had once traded--to remove
or protect his property. While he was absent, Greeley, Stiffner and
Kennedy had been killed, his property plundered and burned, and his wives
carried off by their own people. These squaws had been importuned to leave
the trader, but had been faithful to his interests. The excitement of
these occurrences had not subsided before news came of the murder of
Cassady and four men near the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault was
soon after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady's Bar, on the
upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shattered arm and panting horse
excited the sympathies of the settlers, and aroused the whole community.
The wounded man was provided for, and a party at once started for the
"Four Creeks," where he had left his comrades fighting the Indians.
The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lewis Leach, of St. Louis,
Mo., an immigrant who had but just come in over the same route. The name
of the wounded man was Frank W. Boden. He stated that his party--four men,
I believe, besides himself--had halted at the "Four Creeks" to rest and
graze their horses, and while there a band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came
down from their village
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and demanded tribute for crossing their territory. Looking upon the demand
as a new form of Indian beggary, but little attention was paid to them.
After considerable bantering talk, some tobacco was given them, and they
went off grumbling and threatening. Boden said: "After the Indians left we
talked over the matter for a while; none regarded the demand of the
'Indian tax-gathers' but as a trivial affair. I then mounted my horse and
rode off in the direction in which we had seen some antelopes as we came
on. I had not gone far before I heard firing in the direction of our
halting-place.
"Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my comrades was
surrounded by yelling demons. I was discovered by them at the same
instant, and some of them dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of
joining my party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but before
I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a benumbing sensation in
my arm, which dropped powerless. Seeing that my arm was shattered or
broken, I thought I would give them one shot at least before I fell into
their hands. Checking my horse with some difficulty, I turned so as to
rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight on the nearest of my
pursuers, who halted at the same time."
At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked with a twinkle of
satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: "I never took better aim in my life.
That Indian died suddenly. Another dash was made for me. My horse did not
now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must leave that locality
as soon as possible, and speedily distanced them all. As soon as the first
excitement was over I suffered excrutiating pain in my arm. My rifle being
useless to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away. I then took
the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken arm in my other hand."
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The party that went out to the place of attack--Dr. Thomas Payn's, now
Visalia, named for Nat. Vice, an acquaintance of the writer--found there
the mangled bodies of Boden's four companions. One of these, it was shown
by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merciless fiends while
yet alive.
These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like brave men they had
fought for their lives, and caused, no doubt, a heavy loss to their
assailants. This, with their refusal to comply with the demand for
tribute, was the motive for such wolfish barbarity.
It now became necessary that some prompt action should be taken for
general protection. Rumors of other depredadations and murders alarmed the
inhabitants of Mariposa county. Authentic statements of these events were
at once forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and other
officials, and citizens, urging the immediate adoption of some measures on
the part of the State for the defense of the people. Raids upon the
miners' camps and the "Ranch" of the settlers had become so frequent that
on its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for more
extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any official authority,
collected and started out to check the ravages of the marauders that were
found gathering among the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost
without organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome march among the
densely wooded mountains in pursuit of the savages, who, upon report of
our movements, were now retreating. This party came up with the Indians at
a point high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a Lt. Skeane
was killed, William Little was seriously wounded and some others slightly
injured.
This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, 1851, was not a very
satisfactory one to the whites. The necessity of a more efficient
organization was shown.
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The Indians had here taken all the advantages of position and successfully
repulsed the attack of the whites, who withdrew, and allowed the former to
continue their course.
Some of the party returned to the settlements for supplies and
reinforcements, taking with them the wounded.
Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed the Indians to
near the North Fork of the San Joaquin river, where they had encamped on a
round rugged mountain covered with a dense undergrowth--oaks and digger
pine. Here, protected by the sheltering rocks and trees, they defiantly
taunted the whites with cowardice and their late defeat. They boasted of
their robberies and murders, and called upon Savage to come out where he
could be killed. In every possible manner they expressed their contempt.
Savage--who had joined the expedition--became very much exasperated, and
at first favored an immediate assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and
by Captain Boling's prudent advice, Savage kept himself in reserve,
knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Boling had said, his
knowledge of the Indians and their territory could not very well be
dispensed with. This course did not please all, and, as might have been
expected, then and afterwards disparaging remarks were made.
The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were Jose Juarez
and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this mountain were under the
leadership of Jose Rey, who was also known by his English name of "King
Joseph." The tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Chook-chan-cie, Noot-
chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah-we-ah and Yosemite. The
number of fighting men or warriors was estimated at about 500, while that
of the whites did not exceed 100.
It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered. A general council
was held, and it was decided that no
Page 8b
attack should be made until their position could be studied, and the
probable number to be encountered, ascertained. Captain Kuy-ken-dall,
Lieutenants Doss and Chandler, and others, volunteered to make a
reconnoissance before night should interfere with their purpose.
The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, when it was
followed back to camp by the Indians, where during nearly the whole night
their derisive shouts and menaces in broken Spanish and native American,
made incessant vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. A council was
again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This council of war was
general; official position was disregarded except to carry out the
decisions of the party or command. The scouts had discovered that this
rendezvous was an old Indian village as well as stronghold.
The plan was that an attack should be undertaken at daylight, and that an
effort should be made to set fire to the village, preliminary to the
general assault. This plan was strongly advocated by the more experienced
ones who had seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare.
Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, "as brave men as ever grew," seemed to
vie with each other for the leadership, and at starting Kuy-ken-dall
seemed to be in command, but when the assault was made, Chandler's elan
carried him ahead of all, and he thus became the leader indeed.
But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary service. Everything
being arranged the attacking party started before daylight. The Indians
had but a little while before ceased their annoyances around the camp. The
reserve under Savage and Boling were to follow more leisurely. Kuy-ken-
dall's command reached the Indian camp without being discovered. Without
the least delay the men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set
the wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked
Page 9a
the now alarmed camp. The light combustible materials of which the wigwams
were composed were soon in a bright blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the
charges made, that the panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their
stronghold. Jose Rey was among the first shot down. The Indians made a
rally to recover their leader; Chandler observing them, shouted "Charge,
boys! Charge!!" Discharging another volley, the men rushed forward.
The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answering back the shout of
Chandler to charge by replying, "Chargee!" "Chargee!" as they disappeared.
The whole camp was routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush,
and by flight.
This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction had been so quickly
and recklessly done that the reserve under Boling and Savage had no
opportunity to participate in the assault, and but imperfectly witnessed
the scattering of the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, especially,
displayed a coolness and valor entitling him to command, though outrun by
Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning village spread so
rapidly down the mountain side toward our camp as to endanger its safety.
While the whites were saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover
of the smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; twenty-three were killed;
the number wounded was never known. Of the settlers, but one was really
wounded, though several were scorched and bruised in the fight. None were
killed. The scattering flight of the Indians made a further pursuit
uncertain. The supplies were too limited for an extended chase; and as
none had reached the little army from those who had returned, and time
would be lost in waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements
before taking any other active measures. The return was accomplished
without interruption.
Page 9
CHAPTER II.
The Governor of California issues a Proclamation--Formation of the
Mariposa Battalion--The Origin and Cause of the War--New Material Public
Documents--A Discussion--Capt. Walker--The Peace Commissioners' Parley and
the Indians' Pow-wow--The Mysterious Deep Valley--Forward, March!
THE State authorities had in the meantime become aroused. The reports of
Indian depredations multiplied, and a general uprising was for a time
threatened.
Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougal, calling for
volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to punish the marauders. Our
impromptu organization formed the nucleus of the volunteer force in
Mariposa county, as a large majority of the men at once enlisted. Another
battalion was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our new
organization, when full, numbered two hundred mounted men. This was
accomplished in time, by Major Savage riding over to the San Joaquin, and
bringing back men from Cassady's Bar.
The date from which we were regularly mustered into the service was
January 24th, 1851. The volunteers provided their own horses and
equipments. The camp supplies and baggage trains were furnished by the
State. This military force was called into existence by the State
authorities, but by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of
the general government, under direction of Indian commissioners. Major Ben
McCullough was offered the command of this battalion, but he declined it.
This position was urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted
it the men who had once served under him would be induced
Page 10
to enlist--many of the "Texan Rangers" being residents of Mariposa county.
Major McCullough was at that time employed as Collector of "Foreign
Miners' Tax," a very lucrative office. As a personal acquaintance, he
stated to me that the position was not one that would bring him honor or
pecuniary advantages. That he had no desire to leave a good position,
except for one more profitable.
The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and commissioned by
Governor McDougall, were James D. Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall,
John Boling, and William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant; John
I. Scott, Reuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, as First Lieutentants;
Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs.
Pfifer and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A few changes of Lieutenants and
subordinate officers were afterward made.
Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis Leach, was appointed to
fill the vacancy.
While writing up these recollections, in order to verify my dates, which I
knew were not always chronologically exact, I addressed letters to the
State departments of California making inquiries relative to the "Mariposa
Battalion," organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry concerning these
known facts, the following was received from Adj. General L. H. Foot. He
says: "The records of this office, both written and printed, are so
incomplete, that I am not aware from consulting them that the organization
to which you allude had existence." It is a matter of regret that the
history of the early settlement of California is, to so great an extent,
traditionary, without public records of many important events. It is not
deemed just that the faithful services of the "Mariposa Battalion," should
be forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that
Page 10b
period. There is in the State, an almost entire absence of any public
record of the "Indian war," of which the discovery of the Yosemite valley
was an important episode.
Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching's book, "In The Heart of the
Sierras, Yo-Semite, Big Trees, etc.," which contains valuable public
documents, the author of "Discovery of The Yosemite" was, as stated on
page 30, unable to obtain any official records concerning the operations
of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded and caused the
Indian War of 1851. Now that Mr. Hutching's persistent industry has
brought light from darkness, I interrupt my narrative to make clear the
origin of the war, and to justify the early Pioneers engaged in it. As a
sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I insert a few extracts
from letters relating to the "Date of Discovery," furnished the Century
Magazine.
The attack made upon Savage on the Merced river in 1850, had for its
object plunder and intimidation, and as an invasion of Ten-ie-ya's
territory was no longer threatened after the removal of Mr. Savage to the
Mariposa, the Yo Semities contented themselves with the theft of horses
and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as may be seen by
reference to page 31 of "In The Heart of The Sierras," where appears:
Report of Col. Adam Johnston, a special agent, to Gov. Peter H. Burnett,
upon his return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the Capital of
California, and which I here present: San Jose, January 2, 1851. Sir: I
have the honor to submit to you, as the executive of the State of
California, some facts connected with the recent depredations committed by
the Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons and property
of her citizens. The immediate scene of their hostile movements are at and
in the vicinity of the Mariposa and Fresno. The Indians in that portion of
your
Page 11a
State have, for some time past, exhibited disaffection and a restless
feeling toward the whites. Thefts were continually being perpetrated by
them, but no act of hostility had been committed by them on the person of
any individual, which indicated general emnity on the part of the Indians,
until the night of the 17th December last. I was then at the camp of Mr.
James D. Savage, on the Mariposa, where I had gone for the purpose of
reconciling any difficulty that might exist between the Indians and the
whites in that vicinity. From various conversations which I had held with
different chiefs, I concluded there was no immediate danger to be
apprehended. On the evening of the 17th of December, we were, however,
surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians. They left in a body,
but no one knew why, or where they had gone. From the fact that Mr.
Savage's domestic Indians had forsaken him and gone with those of the
rancheria, or village, he immediately suspected that something of a
serious nature was in contemplation, or had already been committed by them.
The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, induced Mr.
Savage to believe that whatever act they had committed or intended to
commit, might be connected with himself. Believing that he could overhaul
his Indians before others could join them, and defeat any contemplated
depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started in pursuit. He
continued upon their traces for about thirty miles, when he came upon
their encampment. The Indians had discovered his approach, and fled to an
adjacent mountain, leaving behind them two small boys asleep, and the
remains of an aged female, who had died, no doubt from fatigue. Near to
the encampment Mr. Savage ascended a mountain in pursuit of the Indians,
from which he discovered them upon another mountain at a distance.
Page 11
From these two mountain tops, conversation was commenced and kept up for
some time between Mr. Savage and the chief, who told him that they had
murdered the men on the Fresno, and robbed the camp. The chief had
formerly been on the most friendly terms with Savage, but would not now
permit him to approach him. Savage said to them it would be better for
them to return to their village--that with very little labor daily, they
could procure sufficient gold to purchase them clothing and food. To this
the chief replied it was a hard way to get a living, and that they could
more easily supply their wants by stealing from the whites. He also said
to Savage he must not deceive the whites by telling them lies, he must not
tell them that the Indians were friendly; they were not, but on the
contrary were their deadly enemies, and that they intended killing and
plundering them so long as a white face was seen in the country. Finding
all efforts to induce them to return, or to otherwise reach them, had
failed, Mr. Savage and his company concluded to return. When about
leaving, they discovered a body of Indians, numbering about two hundred,
on a distant mountain, who seemed to be approaching those with whom he had
been talking.
Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the night of Thursday in
safety. In the mean time, as news had reached us of murders committed on
the Fresno, we had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the men had
been murdered. Accordingly on the day following, Friday, the 20th, I left
the Mariposa camp with thirty-five men, for the camp on the Fresno, to see
the situation of things there, and to bury the dead. I also dispatched
couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining sections, hoping
to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into
the
Page 12
mountains. Several small companies of men left their respective places of
residence to join us, but being unacquainted with the country they were
unable to meet us. We reached the camp on the Fresno a short time after
daylight. It presented a horrid scene of savage cruelty. The Indians had
destroyed everything they could not use or carry with them. The store was
stripped of blankets, clothing, flour, and everything of value; the safe
was broken open and rifled of its contents; the cattle, horses and mules
had been run into the mountains; the murdered men had been stripped of
their clothing, and lay before us filled with arrows; one of them had yet
twenty perfect arrows sticking in him. A grave was prepared, and the
unfortunate persons interred. Our force being small, we thought it not
prudent to pursue the Indians farther into the mountains, and determined
to return. The Indians in that part of the country are quite numerous, and
have been uniting other tribes with them for some time. On reaching our
camp on the Mariposa, we learned that most of the Indians in the valley
had left their villages and taken their women and children to the
mountains. This is generally looked upon as a sure indication of their
hostile intentions. It is feared that many of the miners in the more
remote regions have already been cut off, and Agua Fria and Mariposa are
hourly threatened.
Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest solicitations of
the people of that region, to ask such aid from the state government as
will enable them to protect their persons and property. I submit these
facts for your consideration, and have the honor to remain,
Yours very respectfully,
ADAM JOHNSTON
To his excellency Peter H. Burnett.
Page 13
The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the desired result, for
immediately after inauguration, his successor, Gov. McDougal, on January
13, 1851, issued a proclamation calling for one hundred volunteers, and
this number by a subsequent order dated January 24th, 1851, after receipt
of Sheriff James Burney's report, bearing the same date of the governor's
first call for one hundred men, was increased to "two hundred able bodied
men, under officers of their own selection."
To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vigorous prosecution
of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov. McDougal appointed Col. J. Neely
Johnson of his staff a special envoy to visit Mariposa county, and in an
emergency, to call out additional forces if required, and do whatever
seemed best for the interests and safety of the people endangered.
Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had, as he reported,
"dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining
sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue
the Indians into the mountains. Several small companies of men left their
respective places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted with the
country they were unable to meet us."
The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Burney, as he was able to
collect but seventy-four men, but want of knowledge of the country was not
the sole cause of delay. The Indians of the mountains at that time having
been accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling the
Californians, were the most expert bare back riders and horse thieves in
the world, and when many of us who had horses and mules herding in the
valley ranches of the foot-hills and Merced bottoms, sent for them to
carry us into the distant mountains of the Fresno, where we had
Page 14
heard the Indians were concentrating, our messengers in many instances
found the animals stolen or stampeded, and hence the delay in most
instances, though some of the mining population who had arrived in
California by water, never seemed able to guide themselves without a
compass, and would get lost if they left a beaten trail. As for myself, I
could scarcely become lost, except in a heavy fog or snow storm, and upon
two occasions in the mountains was compelled to leave my comrades, who
were utterly and wilfully lost, but who, finding me the most persistent,
finally called to me and followed out to well known land marks.
It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that "The different squads
from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place (Agua Fria),
on Monday, 6th, and numbered but seventy-four men." I was at Shirlock's
Creek on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised to join the
Major in the morning; but when the morning came, my animals were gone,
stolen by Indians from my Mexican herdman.
Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant "Jimmy," to Snelling's ranche, on
the Merced River, for his animals, and after a delay of perhaps two or
three days, they were brought up for use. Mr. Spencer kindly loaned me a
mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle mule stolen a few
nights after, I gave back his mule and bought a fine one of Thos. J.
Whitlock, for whom Whitlock's Creek was named. I had previously been able
to start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his brave
men, but met some of them returning after the fight, among whom I
remember, were Wm. Little, shot through the lungs, but who finally
recovered, a Mr. Smith, known as "Yankee Smith," sick, as he said, "from a
bare-footed fool exposure in the snow," and Dr. Phifer, who had been
Page 15
given the care of the wounded and sick men. There were several others
unknown to me, or whose names I have now forgotten.
The different accounts I received from the men engaged in the fight, were
so conflicting, that in referring to it in previous editions, on page 25,
I could only say that it "was not a very satisfactory one to the whites."
I could only state the general impression received from Mr. Little's
account, which was that the men had been unnecessarily exposed to cold and
danger, and that only by the dash and bravery of the officers and men
engaged in the affair were they able to withdraw into a place of temporary
safety, until joined by re-inforcements.
Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged, and, like the soldiers
on both sides at the outbreak of the Rebellion, they had been led to
expect a too easy victory.
But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov. McDougal, and also a
letter from Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, to his father,
written five days after the battle, and which has been kindly placed at my
disposal. Military men will readily perceive and enjoy the entire
artlessness and intended truthfulness of Mr. Palmer's letter, as well as
his modest bravery. The two letters read in connection with that of Col.
Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates and locations for any one
with a knowledge of the topography of the country, and of the events they
narrate. They set at rest forever the absurd claim that the first battle
of the Indian War of 1851 was fought in the Yosemite valley, for the
battle was fought on a mountain. Mr. Hutchings, to whose industry so much
is due, has strangely overlooked the fact, that the reference to "Monday
6th," in Major Burney's letter, could
Page 16
only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the month in which the
letter was written, and not to December, 1850, as given by Mr. Hutchings,
in brackets. The 6th of December, 1850 occurred on a Friday; on Tuesday,
December 17, 1850, the three men were killed on the Fresno river station
of James D. Savage; on Friday, December 20th, 1850, they were buried; on
Monday, January 6th, 1851, Major Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County,
assembled a strong posse to go in pursuit of the Indian murderers, and
coming up with them on a mountain stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed
their villages, and then retreated down the mountain some four miles to a
plain in the Fresno valley, where he erected a log breastwork for
temporary defense. Nothing but the most vivid imagination, coupled with an
entire ignorance of the region of the Yosemite, could liken the two
localities to each other. The Hetch Hetchy valley of the Tuolumne river
and some of the cliffs of the Tuolumne and of the King's river, bear a
general resemblance to some of the scenery of the Yosemite, but when the
Yosemite valley itself has been seen, it will never be forgotten by the
visitor.
MAJOR BURNEY'S LETTER TO GOV. MCDOUGAL.
AGUA FRIA, January 13, 1851.
SIR: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed by Mr. Johnston and
others, of repeated and aggravated depredations of the Indians in this
part of the State. Their more recent outrages you are probably not aware
of. Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent, they have
killed a portion of the citizens on the head of the San Joaquin river,
driven the balance off, taken away all movable property, and destroyed all
they could not take away. They have invariably murdered and robbed all the
small parties they fell in with between here
Page 17
and the San Joaquin. News came here last night that seventy-two men were
killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several men have been killed in Bear Valley.
The Fine Gold Gulch has been deserted, and the men came in here yesterday.
Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of the State have been
stolen, both from the mines and the ranches. And I now, in the name of the
people of this part of the State, and for the good of our country, appeal
to your Excellency for assistance.
In order to show your Excellency that the people have done all that they
can do to suppress these things, to secure quiet and safety in the
possession of our property and lives, I will make a brief statement of
what has been done here.
After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., we endeavored to
raise a volunteer company to drive the Indians back, if not to take them
or force them into measures. The different squads from the various places
rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and numbered but
seventy-four men. A company was formed, and I was elected captain; J. W.
Riley, first lieutenant; E. Skeane, second lieutenant. We had but eight
day's provisions, and not enough animals to pack our provisions and
blankets, as it should have been done. We, however, marched, and on the
following day struck a large trail of horses that had been stolen by the
Indians. I sent forward James D. Savage with a small spy force, and I
followed the trail with my company. About two o'clock in the morning,
Savage came in and reported the village near, as he had heard the Indians
singing. Here I halted, left a small guard with my animals, and went
forward with the balance of my men. We reached the village just before
day, and at dawn, but before there was light enough to see how to fire our
rifles with accuracy, we were discovered by
Page 18
their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I ordered a charge on the
village (this had been reconnoitered by Savage and myself). The Indian
sentinel and my company got to the village at the same time, he yelling to
give the alarm. I ordered them to surrender, some of them ran off, some
seemed disposed to surrender, but others fired on us; we fired and charged
into the village. Their ground had been selected on account of the
advantages it possessed in their mode of warfare. They numbered about four
hundred, and fought us three hours and a half.
We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell how many, as they
took off all they could get to. Twenty-six were killed in and around the
village, and a number of others in the chaparrel. We burned the village
and provisions, and took four horses. Our loss was six wounded, two
mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, the other a Mr. Little,
whose bravery and conduct through the battle cannot be spoken of too
highly. We made litters, on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to
march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable place to camp, the
Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks on either side, but so far
off as to do little damage. My men had been marching or fighting from the
morning of the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat. On
the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude, but substantial
fortification; and at a late hour those who were not on guard, were
permitted to sleep. Our sentinels were (as I anticipated they would be)
firing at the Indians occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not
to come in until they were driven in.
I left my wounded men there, with enough of my company to defend the
little fort, and returned to this place for provisions and recruits. I
send them to-day
Page 19
re-inforcements and provisions, and in two days more I march by another
route, with another re-inforcement, and intend to attack another village
before going to the fort. The Indians are watching the movements at the
fort, and I can come up in the rear of them unsuspectedly, and we can keep
them back until I can hear from Your Excellency.
If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or any other person to
keep this company together, we can force them into measures in a short
time. But if not authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished with
some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and pay for the
services of the men, my company must be disbanded, as they are not able to
lose so much time without any compensation.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JAMES BURNEY.
In a subsequent letter of Major Burney, addressed to Hon. W. J. Howard,
occurs the following passage:
"The first night out you came into my camp and reported that the Indians
had stolen all your horses and mules--a very large number; that you had
followed their trail into the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to
go there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my trail, having
heard that I had gone out after Indians. I immediately, at sunset, sent
ten men (yourself among the number) under Lieutenant Skeane--who was
killed in the fight next day--to look out for the trail, and report, which
was very promptly carried out."
Page 35, "In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal" for 1851, page 600.
It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced by such leaders of
men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chandler and Doss, there was no delay, and the
campaign was
Page 20
completed at "Battle Mountain," a water shed of the San Joaquin.
I now introduce a letter of great value, to me, as it fixes the date of
the first battle, and disproves assertions made in the Century Magazine:
HART'S RANCH, CALIFORNIA, JANUARY 16th, 1851.
MY DEAR FATHER: When I wrote my last letter to you I had fully determined
to take a Ranch near Pacheco's Pass, as I informed you, but before three
days had passed the report of Jim Kennedy's murder on the Fresno was
confirmed, and I started for the mountains in pursuit of the Indians who
were committing depredations all through the country and had sworn to kill
every white man in it. Four hundred men had promised to go, but at the
appointed time only seventy-seven made their appearance. With these we
started under the command of Major Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa County,
guided by Mr. Jas. D. Savage, who is without doubt the best man in the
world for hunting them out.
From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has learned their
ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him. He has been one of their
greatest chiefs, and speaks their language as well as they can themselves.
No dog can follow a trail like he can. No horse endure half so much. He
sleeps but little, can go days without food, and can run a hundred miles
in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and laugh for hours
over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just been taking a
little walk for exercise.
With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to find them.
On Friday morning about ten o'clock, our camp again moved forward and kept
traveling until one that night, when "halt! we are on the Indians," passed
in a whisper down the line. Every heart beat quicker as we silently
unsaddled our animals and tied them to the bushes around us, Commands were
given in whispers and we were formed in a line. Sixty were chosen for the
expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge of camp.
Page 21
Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they were engaged
in a feast. He pointed out their fires, could hear them sing and could
smell them, but his eyes were the only ones that could see; his ears alone
could hear, and his nose smell anything unusual. Still, there was such
confidence placed in him that not one doubted for an instant that
everything was as he said.
About two o'clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was possible
for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had set. For three long
hours did we walk slowly and cautiously over the rocks and bushes, through
the deepest ravines and up steep and ragged mountain, until within a half
mile of the enemy.
Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed forward to about
two hundred yards from the camp. Another halt was called to wait for
daylight, while Savage went forward to reconnoitre. He succeeded in
getting within ten paces of the Rancharia, and listened to a conversation
among them in which his name was frequently mentioned. He found that it
was a town of the Kee-chees, but that there were about one hundred and
fifty of the Chow-chil la warriors with them and several of the Chuc-chan-
ces. Had he found only the Kee-chees as he expected, we were to surround
the Rancharia and take all prisoners, but the presence of so many Chow-
chil-las, the most warlike tribe in California, made a change of plan
necessary.
Daylight by this time began to appear. We had been lying in our stocking-
feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within a few paces of the snow
for more than an hour, almost frozen by the intense cold, not daring to
move or speak a word.
It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when an
Indian's head was seen rising on the hill before us. For a moment his eyes
wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like a Coyote he turned for
the Rancharia. Never did I hear before such an infernal howling, whooping
and yelling, as saluted us then from the throats of about six hundred
savages, as they rushed down the hill into the gim-o-sell bushes below.
Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more
Page 22
pleasant to them, as when finding we were discovered, we charged on their
town. Fifty rifles cracked almost instantaneously; a dozen Indians lay
groaning before their huts, and many supposed we had undisturbed
possession. Our firing had ceased and we were looking around for plunder,
when a rifle fired from the bushes below, struck a young Texan, Charley
Huston, standing by my side. He fell with a single groan, and we all
supposed him dead. My first impression was that I was shot, for I plainly
heard the ball strike and almost felt it. This was a surprise that almost
whipped us, for not knowing that the Indians had fire-arms, we were only
expecting arrows. Before that shot was fired, I had always entertained the
idea that I could run about as fast as common men (and I was one of the
first in the charge), but by the time I had collected my wandering senses,
I was nearly alone; the majority of the party some thirty paces ahead, and
running as if they never intended to stop.
Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using every exertion
to make the company halt and form. He had partly succeeded, when a pistol
ball struck a man in the face, he fell, but raising himself up said, "if
we stay here we will be all shot" and a break was made for the trees.
Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered to the orders
to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally wounded. He was carried
off, and every man took his tree.
The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of a slight
eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bullets and arrows upon
us from three sides. These two points had to be gained even if it cost
half our men. Leaving then, enough to guard our present position, the rest
of us charged on the hill, took it, stormed the Rancharia, took and burnt
it, and returned to our former position with only one man wounded, Wm,
Little, shot through the lungs.
The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase and were
forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such as exposed
themselves. It was about half past ten when, finding it useless to remain
longer, litters were made for the wounded and we started for camp. Then
again we had warm work, for
Page 23
all down the pass, the Indians had stationed themselves to fire on us,
forcing us to charge on them several times, for while we were in plain
sight, they were completely hid behind the gim-o-sell brush.
In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as hard as at any
time during the morning, but not a single man was hurt, and only one mule
was killed.
We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where we laid the
foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it and take care of the
wounded.
The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying Lieutenant
Skeane, who died in the night.
The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty killed and
wounded would be a moderate estimate. Our loss was seven wounded--two
mortally (as we then supposed, but Mr. Little finally recovered.--AUTHOR.)
The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be ascertained,
four hundred warriors. We burned a hundred wig-wams, several tons of dried
horse and mule meat, a great number of bows and arrows, and took six mules.
Several amusing incidents occured during the fight and others of the most
heroic bravery on the part of the Indians. One old squaw was wounded
accidentally at the first charge, and was unable to get off. One of our
men was going to finish her with his knife, but seeing it was a woman he
left her. No sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow and lodged three
arrows in another man. I believe she was not touched after that.
The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage, partly
because he would not be their chief and lead them against the whites, and
partly because he was, they knew, our greatest dependence as guide, and
their particular dread. To kill him, many of them sacrificed their own
lives. They would come one at a time and, standing in open ground, send
arrows at him until shot down; and one old chief who used to cook for
Savage, would ask him after every shot where he had hit him. They would
talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he
Page 24
would answer, the balls and arrows would fly thick around his head: but he
escaped unhurt; but as he said, worse frightened than he ever was before.
He did not fancy such partiality.
A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe I am
perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting.
T. G. PALMER.
NOTE.--It will have been observed that especial reference has twice been
made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm slatey soil, on
Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter quarters, and not on the
granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite. I had not thought it
necessary to draw upon nature for testimony, but a new generation has
sprung into existence, and the eternal hills may speak to them.
The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date of the organization
of the battalion, was the county seat of Mariposa County, and the
residence of the Sheriff, Major James Burney. Whittier's Hotel was the
headquarters for enlistment. Finding the number called for incomplete,
while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of the mustering officer,
James D. Savage made a rapid ride to the San Joaquin diggings, and
returned with men enough to complete the organization.
We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp about two miles
below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of Feb., 1851, but when mustered in,
the rolls were dated to include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the date of
the last order of enlistment. An informal ballot was taken to show the
preference of the men for officers to command us, Major Burney having
previously declined, and when that had been demonstrated, other aspirants
were withdrawn by their friends, a formal ballot was taken and a regular
organization of three companies completed. The Governor was duly notified
of our proceedings, and in a few days the commissions were received by our
respective officers.
After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved down to a camp in
the foot hills, known afterwards as
Page 25
Lewis Ranch, were we had abundant grass and good water, and there was
established our head-quarters, while waiting for Col. J. Neely Johnson and
the U.S. Indian Commission, as stated in this chapter.
After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and the Commission had
exhausted its eloquence upon the "Children of the Great Father at
Washington," and had started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in
pursuit of some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in the
night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and taken some others
herded in the foot hills, but no extended operations were allowed, as
Major Savage ordered us to be in readiness for a campaign against the
Yosemities, when the first big storm should come, that would prevent their
escape across the Sierra Nevada. After a few days' delay the storm did
come with continued violence, as recorded.
In view of the facts and dates here given, how absurd the statement that
we did not go to the Yosemite "until about the 5th or 6th of May, 1851."
Our idleness in camp from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence of the
Commissioners, while waiting for the results of our first operations,
surpass belief.
And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by Mr. Julius N. Pratt
in the Century Magazine for December, 1890.
Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to see and answer Mr.
Pratt's erroneous impressions in the same number, I am convinced that he
would have kindly withdrawn his article. I am led to this belief, not
alone from letters received, but from the internal evidence of an upright
character conveyed by Mr. Pratt's graphic account of "A Trip to California
by way of Panama in 1849," in the Century for April 1891.
The Century Magazine is a most powerful
Page 26
disseminator of truth, or error, and though I cannot hope for a complete
vindication through this volume, its readers shall have the facts of "The
Date of Discovery" set before them, "for a truthful regard for history"
and my own self-respect require it.
In the Century Magazine for September, 1890, page 795, is an article from
my pen which gives the date of discovery of the Yosemite as March, 1851.
Mr. Pratt, in the December number following, assumes, with "a truthful
regard for history," that I was in error, and gives about "January 10th,
1851, as the approximate, if not exact date of discovery." Many of the men
whom Mr. Pratt supposed to have been the discoverers, were, or became, my
own comrades. When Mr. Pratt's article appeared, I at once sent a reply,
but it received no recognition.
Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, was in the
only engagement occurring with Indians in Mariposa county at the time
given by Mr. Pratt as the date of his supposed discovery of the Yosemite,
I wrote, requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the Century in my
behalf.
In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: "It is the unexpected
which always happens, and your communication to the Century in response to
Pratt's 'California,' was never received. Mr. Johnson, the associate
editor, received me very pleasantly. He assured me that although he sent
you an advance copy of Pratt's article, nothing had been received in the
office from you since in reply, and he presumed you had given up the case
in default.
"I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in error, that he
requested me to express my reasons in the Century, and to assure you that
any communication from you will always have respectful attention."
Page 27
On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate editor, wrote me,
saying: "Since telling your friend, Mr. Palmer, that we had not received
an article from you in reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered the
manuscript. We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which will be
acceptable to you."
A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof. On March 12th,
1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: "Mr. Pratt, after examination of the subject,
has written us a short letter, withdrawing his contention of your claim to
the discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which we trust will be
satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer. Will you now tell us whether
there is anything in this new claim that Walker was the discoverer of the
Valley?"
I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt's retraction was published there would be
no need of the publication of Mr. Palmer's communication. About this time
a letter of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr. Palmer,
received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gentleman says: "I enclose a
letter which seems to prove that the party about which I wrote to the
Century was not your party. One went to the North fork, the other (yours)
to the South." That statement left no base whatever for Mr. Pratt's
imaginary "fight at the Yosemite, and thus of the discovery," for the
North Fork affair was not a battle at all, but "a scare" on a fork which
enters the Merced river thirty-five miles below the Yosemite, and as for
the battle fought on the 11th of January, 1851, by Major Burney's company,
in which Mr. Palmer was engaged, it was not fought on the South fork or in
any valley, but upon a high mountain of the Fresno river.
Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to The Century was too long delayed, and
wrote asking for its withdrawal or its publication. Mr. R. U. Johnson
replied: "The Century
Page 28
is made up two months in advance," but that he intended inserting it in
the April number, &c. Mr. Palmer added in his letter to me, "I think he
will."
The matter had now become not only interesting, but amusing to me; for
very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, "whether my answer to Pratt will be published
or not, is doubtful. I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will not rest
quiescent under my contradiction." Again Mr. Palmer wrote, enclosing copy
of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891, answering Mr. Johnson's
Statement, "that Mr. Pratt, while being convinced of his injustice to Dr.
Bunnell and being ready himself to withdraw his former statement, takes
issue with you as to the identity of the two parties," and then Mr.
Johnson asks, "would it not be just as well and more effective if we were
simply to print from Mr. Pratt that he is 'pleased to withdraw all
contention of the claim made by Dr. Bunnell that he was the original
discoverer?'" Let me here say, in passing, that I never made such a claim.
Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the "scapegoat" for me or any
one else, and replying to Mr. Johnson, says: "Whether my letter is printed
or not, is a matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) ** it was
only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I wrote the little I
did. I left you under the impression that you desired to get at the exact
facts and would be glad to rectify the injustice done to the doctor by the
publication of Mr. Pratt's communication. *** I believe that the
publication of my letter would not only gratify him, but also place the
Century right upon the record, where it surely desires to stand."
Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin, but not surprise,
on March 17th, he received a letter of thanks from the associate editor of
the Century, in which
Page 29
Mr. Johnson says: "Please accept our thanks for your letter of the 14th,
and for your obliging attitude in the matter." Whether any retraction from
Mr. Pratt will ever appear in the Century is now, in view of the long
delay, a matter of great indifference to me.(*)
Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley by Capt.
Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom Walker's river, Lake and Pass were
named. It is not a new claim, as supposed by Mr. R. U. Johnson, but
appears in the Peoples Encyclopoedia and was set up in the San Jose
Pioneer soon after Capt. Walker's death, and answered by me in the same
paper in 1880.
I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in the Pioneer article that, " His
were the first white man's eyes that ever looked upon the Yosemite" above
the valley, and in that sense, he was certainly the original white
discoverer.
The topography of the country over which the Mono trail ran, and which was
followed by Capt. Walker, did not admit of his seeing the valley proper.
The depression indicating the valley, and its magnificent surroundings,
could alone have been discovered, and in Capt. Walker's conversations with
me at various times while encamped between Coultersville and the Yosemite,
he was manly enough to say so. Upon one occaision I told Capt. Walker that
Ten-ie-ya had said that, "A small party of white men once crossed the
mountains on th north side, but were so guided as not to see the valley
proper." With a smile the Captain said: "That was my party, but I was not
deceived, for the lay of the land showed there was a valley below; but we
had become nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves on the
verge of starvation, so we followed down the ridge to Bull Creek, where,
killing a deer, we went into camp."
(* Mr. Pratt's retraction has finally appeared in the June number for
1891.)
Page 30
The captain remained at his camp near Coultersville for some weeks, and
disappeared as suddenly as he came. He once expressed a desire to re-visit
the region of the Yosemite in company with me, but could fix no date, as
he told me he was in daily expectation of a government appointment as
guide, which I learned was finally given him.
Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed in the vocal and sign
languages of the Indians, and went at his will among them. He may have
visited the Yosemite from his camp before leaving. I was strongly
impressed by the simple and upright character of Captain Walker, and his
mountain comrades spoke in the highest praise of his ability. Fremont, Kit
Carson, Bill Williams, Alex Gody, Vincenthaler (not Vincent Haler, as
erroneously appeared in the March number of the Century ), Ferguson and
others, all agreed in saying that as a mountain man, Captain Walker had no
superior.
Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly rector of Trinity
Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter's Church, San Francisco, as well as
editor of Pacific Churchman, kindly called my attention to a seeming
neglect of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the Yosemite.
All that I have ever claimed for myself is, that I was one of the party of
white men who first entered the Yosemite valley, as far as known to the
Indians.
The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed. The existence of some
terribly yawning abyss in the mountains, guarded at its entrance by a
frightful "Rock Chief," from whose head rocks would be hurled down upon us
if we attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently described
to us by crafty or superstitious Indians. Hence the greater our surprise
upon first beholding a fit abode for angels of light. As for myself, I
freely confess that my feelings of hostility against the Indians were
overcome by
Page 31
a sense of exaltation; and although I had suffered losses of property and
friends, the natural right of the Indians to their inheritance forced
itself upon my mind.
The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor McDougall to the duty of
keeping in subjection the Indian tribes on the east side of the San
Joaquin and Tulare valleys, from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon Pass. As
soon as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his preparations
for an expedition. There was but little delay in fitting out. Scouting
parties were sent out, but with no other effect than to cause a general
retreat of the Indians to the mountains, and a cessation of hostilities,
except the annoyances from the small bands of thieving marauders. No
Indians were overtaken by those detachments, though they were often seen
provokingly near. When about to start on a more extended expedition to the
mountains, Major Savage received an order from the Governor to suspend
hostile operations until he should receive further instructions. We
learned at about the same time through the newspapers, as well as from the
Governor's messenger, that the United States Commissioners had arrived in
San Francisco. Their arrival had for some time been expected.
Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had not been officially
administered upon. Public officers had not before been appointed to look
after the vast landed estates of the aboriginal proprietors of this
territory, and to provide for their heirs. After some delay, the
commissioners arrived at our camp, which was located about fifteen miles
below Mariposa village. Here the grazing was most excellent, and for that
reason they temporarily established their head-quarters. These officials
were Colonels Barbour and McKee, and Dr. Woozencroft. They were
accompanied by Col. Neely Johnson, the Governor's aid, and by a small
detachment of regulars. The commissioners at once
Page 32
proceeded to make a thorough investigation into the cause of the war, and
of the condition of affairs generally. Having secured the services of some
of the Mission Indians, these were sent out with instructions to notify
all the tribes that the commissioners had been directed by the President
to make peace between them and the white settlers; and that if they would
come in, they should be assured protection.
The so-called Mission Indians were members of different tribes who had
been instructed in the belief of the Catholic Church, at the old Spanish
Missions. These Indians had not generally taken part in the war against
the white settlers, although some of them, with the hostiles, were the
most treacherous of their race, having required the vices and none of the
virtues of their white instructors.
During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ventured in to have a
talk with the commissioners. They were very shy and suspicious, for all
had been more or less implicated in the depredations that had been
committed. Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were given
that all who came in should be supplied with food and clothing and other
useful things. This policy soon became generally known to the Indians.
Among the delegations that visited the comissioners were Vow-ches-ter,(*)
chief of one of the more peaceful bands, and Russio, a Mission Indian from
the Tuolumne, but who in former years had belonged to some of the San
Joaquin tribes. These chiefs had always appeared friendly, and had not
joined in the hostile attitude assumed by the others. At the outbreak on
the Fresno, Vow-ches-ter had been temporarily forced into hostilities by
the powerful influence of Jose Rey, and by his desire to secure protection
to his relative, one of Savage's squaws. But with the fall of Jose Rey,
his influence over Vow-ches-ter declined, and he was once more left free
to show his friendship for the whites.
(* An Indian corruption of Bautista.)
Page 33
As for Russio, his intelligent services were secured as peacemaker and
general Indian interpreter by the commissioners, while a much less
competent Mission Indian, Sandino, served in the capacity of interpreter
during expeditions into the mountains.
Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised to bring in their
people and make peace with the whites. All that came in promised a
cessation, on the part of their tribes, of the hostilties begun, for which
they were rewarded with presents.
Vow-chester, when questioned, stated "that the mountain tribes would not
listen to any terms of peace involving the abandonment of their territory;
that in the fight near the North Fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had
been badly wounded and probably would die; that his tribe were very angry,
and would not make peace." We had up to this time supposed Jose Rey had
been killed at "Battle Mountain." Russio said: "The Indians in the deep
rocky valley on the Merced river do not wish for peace, and will not come
in to see the chiefs sent by the great father to make treaties. They think
the white men cannot find their hiding places, and that therefore they
cannot be driven out." The other Indians of the party confirmed Russio's
statements. Vow-chester was the principal spokesman, and he said: "In this
deep valley spoken of by Russio, one Indian is more than ten white men.
The hiding places are many. They will throw rocks down on the white men,
if any should come near them. The other tribes dare not make war upon
them, for they are lawless like the grizzlies, and as strong. We are
afraid to go to this valley, for there are many witches there."
Some of us did not consider Vow-chester's promise of friendship as
reliable. We regarded him as one of the hostile mountain Indians. He,
however, was never again
Page 34
engaged in hostilities against the whites. I afterwards learned that Vow-
chester and Savage had once professed a strong friendship for each other.
The trader at that time had taken a bride who was closely allied to the
chief. After the destruction of Savage's trading posts, in which Vow-ches-
ter had taken an active part in procuring a forcible divorce and division
of property (though the murders were ascribed to the Chow-chillas), all
forms of friendship or relationship had ceased. At this interview no sign
of recognition passed. After listening to this parley between the
Commissioners and the Indians, I asked Major Savage, who had been acting
as interpreter, if he had ever been into the deep valley the Indians had
been speaking of. He at first replied that he had, but on a subsequent
conversation he corrected this statement by saying, "Last year while I was
located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced, I was attacked by
the Yosemites, but with the Indian miners I had in my employ, drove them
off, and followed some of them up the Merced river into a canon, which I
supposed led to their stronghold, as the Indians then with me said it was
not a safe place to go into. From the appearance of this rocky gorge I had
no difficulty in believing them. Fearing an ambush, I did not follow them.
It was on this account that I changed my location to Mariposa creek. I
would like to get into the den of the thieving murderers. If ever I have a
chance I will smoke out the Grizzly Bears (the Yosemites) from their
holes, where they are thought to be so secure."
No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians, who continued to
annoy the settlers with their depredations, thieving from the miner's
camps, and stealing horses and mules from the ranches. While we were
awaiting the action of the commissioners, we lost some horses and mules,
which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp. After
Page 35
the commissioners had decided upon the measures to be adopted, our
battalion was ordered into line and we were then officially informed by
Col. Johnson, that our operations as a military organization, would
henceforth be under the direction of the United States Commissioners. That
by their order we were now assigned to the duty of subduing such Indian
tribes as could not otherwise be induced to make treaties with them, and
at once cease hostilities and depredations. "Your officers will make all
reports to the commissioners. Your orders and instructions will hereafter
be issued by them." The colonel then complimented the soldierly appearance
of the battalion (very customary in later years) and then said: "While I
do not hesitate to denounce the Indians for the murders and robberies
committed by them, we should not forget that there may perhaps be
circumstances which, if taken into consideration, might to some extent
excuse their hostility to the whites. They probably feel that they
themselves are the aggrieved party, looking upon us as trespassers upon
their territory, invaders of their country, and seeking to dispossess them
of their homes. It may be, they class us with the Spanish invaders of
Mexico and California, whose cruelties in civilizing and christianizing
them are still traditionally fresh in their memories," etc. In conclusion
the colonel said: "As I am about to leave, I will now bid you 'good bye,'
with the hope that your actions will be in harmony with the wishes of the
commissioners, and that in the performance of your duties, you will in all
cases observe mercy where severity is not justly demanded."
Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech; but at that time
we were not fully impressed with the justness of the remarks which had
been made from kindness of heart and sincerely humane feelings. Many of us
had lost--some heavily--by the depredations of the Indians.
Page 36
Friends and relatives had been victims of their atrocities. Murders and
robberies had been committed without provocations then discernible to us.
Many of us would then have been willing to adopt the methods of the old
Spanish missionaries, who, it was said, sometimes brought in their
converts with the lasso. However, these orders and the speech from Col.
Johnson were received with cheers by the more impatient and impulsive of
the volunteers, who preferred active service to the comparative quiet of
the camp.
The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno, near the foot-
hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our camp, to which the Indian
tribes with whom treaties had been made were to be removed, and at this
locality the commissioners also established a camp, as head-quarters.
The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners, who were very
desirous of having the Indians voluntarily come in to make treaties with
them, delayed any active cooperation on the part of our battalion until
the winter rains had fully set in. Our first extended expedition to the
mountains was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal equinox,
although detachments had previously made excursions into the country
bordering upon the Sierras. This region, like parts of Virginia, proved
impassable to a mounted force during the wet season, and our operations
were confined to a limited area.
It was at last decided that more extended operations were necessary to
bring in the mountain tribes. Although there was no longer unity of action
among them, they refused to leave their retreats, and had become even
suspicious of each other. The defeat of Jose Rey, and the desertion of the
tribes who had made, or had promised to make, treaties with the
commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile demonstrations, had caused
jealousies and discontent to divide even the most turbulent bands. For the
extended
Page 37
operations of the battalion among the mountains, it was decided that Major
Savage, with the companies of Captains Boling and Dill, should make
expeditions which would require him to traverse the regions of the San
Joaquin and Merced rivers. Captain Kuy-ken-dall with his company were to
be detached to operate for the same purpose in the regions of the Kings
and Kah-we-ah rivers. The Indians captured were to be escorted to the
commissioners' camp on the Fresno. Notwithstanding a storm was gathering,
our preparations were cheerfully made, and when the order to "form into
line" was given, it was obeyed with alacrity. No "bugle call" announced
orders to us; the "details" were made quietly, and we as quietly
assembled. Promptly as the word of command "mount," was given, every
saddle was filled. With "forward march," we naturally filed off into the
order of march so readily assumed by mounted frontiersmen while traveling
on a trail.
We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an undisciplined body
could be expected to move, but Major Savage said that we must all learn to
be as still as Indians, or we would never find them.
This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers. Many of them had
seen service, and had fought their way against the Indians across the
plains; some had served in the war with Mexico and been under military
discipline.
Although ununiformed, they were well armed, and their similarities of
dress and accoutrements, gave them a general military appearance.
The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp near the plain, but we
began to encounter storms of cold rain as we reached the more elevated
localities.
Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and plain at that
season of the year indicated snow higher up, sent forward scouts to
intercept such parties as might
Page 38
attempt to escape, but the storm continued to rage with such violence as
to render this order useless, and we found the scouts awaiting us at the
foot of a mountain known as the Black Ridge. This ridge is a spur of the
Sierra Nevada. It separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San
Joaquin rivers on the south from the Merced on the north. While halting
for a rest, and sipping his coffee, Savage expressed an earnest desire to
capture the village he had ascertained to be located over the ridge on the
south fork of the Merced. He was of the opinion that if it could be
reached without their discovery of us, we should have no fighting to do
there, as that band would surrender at once rather than endanger their
women and children, who would be unable to escape through the snow. Toward
this village we therefore marched as rapidly as the nature of the steep
and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel. An Indian that
answered to the name of "Bob, an attache´ of the Major, serving as guide.
Climbing up this steep black mountain, we soon reached the region of snow,
which at the summit, was fully four feet deep, though the cold was not
intense. By this time, night was upon us. The trail led over the ridge at
a point where its tabled summit was wooded with a forest of pines, cedars
and firs, so dense as almost to exclude the light of the stars that now
and then appeared struggling through the gloom.
We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but this trail was so
indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at intervals deep mutterings would
be heard from some drowsy rider who missed the beaten path. As we
commenced the descent of the ridge, the expressions became more forcible
than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves floundering in the
snow below the uncertain trail. If left to their own sagacity, a horse or
mule will follow its leader; but if a self-willed rider insists upon his
own judgment
Page 39
the poor animal has not only to suffer the extra fatigue incurred by a
mistep, but also the punishment of the spur, and hear the explosive
maledictions of the master. The irritating responses of his comrades that
"another fool has been discovered," was not then calculated to sooth the
wrath that was then let loose.
With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep, damp snow, the South
Fork of the Merced was at length reached about a mile below what is now
known as Clark's, or Wah-ha-wo-na, from Wah-ha-wo-na, a Big Tree. We here
made a halt, and our weary animals were provided with some barley, for the
snow was here over a foot deep. The major announced that it was but a
short distance below to the Indian village, and called for volunteers to
accompany him--it might be for a fight or perhaps only a footrace--
circumstances would determine which. The major's call was promptly and
fully answered, although all were much fatigued with the tedious night
march. The animals were left, and a sufficient number was selected to
remain as a reserve force and camp guard. At daylight we filed away on
foot to our destination, following the major who was guided by "Bob."
Discovery of the Yosemite - End of Chapters I-II
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