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INTRODUCTORY NOTE

The author of the "Description of the Dismal" is the well known William 
Byrd II, who was born March 28, 1674, and died Aug. 26, 1744. The life of 
William Byrd has been sketched so often that no repetition of the facts of 
his life will be attempted here. In John Spencer Bassett's "Writings of 
Colonel Byrd, New York, 1901," will be found an account of his life.

The following three editions of his writings have been published:

The Westover Manuscripts; containing the History of the Dividing Line 
betwixt Virginia and North Carolina; A Journey to the Land of Eden, A. D. 
1733; and A Progress to the Mines. Written from 1728 to 1736, and now 
first published, By William Byrd, of Westover. Petersburg, Printed by 
Edmund and Julian C. Ruffin, 1841. iv, 143 pages.

History of the Dividing Line and other Tracts from the Papers of W. 
Byrd...Richmond, Va. 1866. 2 v. (Historical Documents of the Old Dominion, 
nos. 2, 3). Contents: v. 1. History of the Dividing Line between Virginia 
and North

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Carolina...in 1728-29. v. 2. Journey to the Land of Eden, A. D. 1733. A 
Progress to the Mines...in 1732. An Essay on bulk Tobacco. Miscellaneous 
Papers.

The Writings of "Colonel William Byrd of Westover in Virginia, Esq." 
Edited by John Spencer Bassett. Illustrated. New York, Doubleday, Page & 
Co., 1901. lxxxviii, 461 pages.

It was through the enterprise of Edmund Ruffin that the Westover 
Manuscripts were first given to the public, as the appendix to volume 9 of 
the Farmers' Register. This appendix was also issued separately, and is 
best known in the separate form; it is the first of the three editions 
listed.

In the History of the Dividing Line is the journal of the survey of the 
North Carolina boundary through the Dismal Swamp. This was written in 
1728. The "Description of the Dismal, with the Proposal to drain it," as 
reprinted in this present volume, was written sometime between 1728 and 
1737. This is determined by the author's suggestion of the Earl of Orkney, 
who died in 1737, as one who should be invited to encourage subscriptions 
to shares of the company. The text of this reprint is from the Farmers' 
Register, volume 4, pages 521 to 524. This "Description"

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has not been printed in any one of the editions of Byrd's Works.

The attempt to drain the Dismal Swamp seems to have been abandoned by 
William Byrd, the author of this Description. The proposal was revived in 
1763, nineteen years after his death. On May 25, 1763, a petition for the 
Dismal Swamp in Norfolk was read and postponed. (Journal of the Executive 
Sessions of the Council, in Virginia Magazine of History and Biography, v. 
16, p. 148). At the January, 1764, Session of the General Assembly, "An 
Act to enable certain Adventurers to drain a large Tract of Marshy Grounds 
in the Counties of Nansimond and Norfolk" was passed. (Hening, v. 8, p. 
19). This act did not grant any land to the company of adventurers, but it 
stipulated that "it shall and may be lawful for the said company of 
adventurers, or any of them, at any time, to enter upon, and have such a 
free passage, and make such canals or causeways, through the lands of any 
person whatsoever adjacent to the said Dismal Swamp, as may be conducive 
to the more effectual draining thereof, without being subject to the 
action or suit, of any such persons for the same."

On March 27, 1922, the "Original Manuscript Surveys of Washington's Dismal 
Swamp Enterprise"

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was sold at Auction in New York. As I have not seen this manuscript, I 
give the description printed in the catalog:

The Original Surveys and Descriptions of Washington's Real Estate 
Adventure in Great Dismal Swamp Lands, as drawn and prepared by Gershom 
Nimmo, the Surveyor. Occupying eight pages of surveys, descriptions, and 
drawings, on five folio sheets. Inlaid, and contained in a portfolio.

(Dated) Norfolk, 1763

Sheet 1, p. 1, bears the inscription: "To Coll. Fieldg. Lewis," and is 
endorsed: "Entries made in the Great Dismal Swamp. 1763."

Sheet 1, p. 2, is a "Memo. of Entries made in the Great Dismal, viz."--
then follows a list of ten land entries made in the Swamp, between Sept. 
29, 1760, and Oct. 20, 1763, by John Mercer, Jr.; Chas. Wilkins; Thos 
Wright; Col. Robert Tucker, and others. Following these records is a 
statement beginning "Sir," and stating that the above lands (aggregating 
5800 acres) have not yet been surveyed. All signed "Yr. Huml. Servt, 
Gershom Nimmo" (and dated) "Norfolk, Nov. 20th, 1763."

Sheet 2, p. 1, is headed "Coll. Washington & Company," and is a detailed 
surveyor's description of the property. It commences: "Beginning at a 
point at the Mouth of Poison Swamp, running thence," and then embraces 
about 110 closely written surveyor's entries, delimiting the boundaries, 
and filling the whole page.

Sheet 2, p. 2, contains a blank MS. legal document drawn up by Justice 
Henry Reddick, and has nothing to do with the land records. The sheet was 
convenient for the surveyor, and he used the other side of it.

Sheet 3, p. 1, is headed: "A Survey made for the Dismal Swamp Compy. in 
the Great Dismal Swamp," etc. In 23 lines of narrative MS. it gives 
numerous details regarding boundaries; the lands of Mills Reddick; of Col. 
Lemuel Reddick; of Robt. Tucker; the location of Carberry's Mill; the 
Patented Lands,

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the Company's Causeway and other allied information regarding a tract 
"containing 23,696 acres."

Sheet 3, p. 2, contains the MS. description of the boundaries of a tract 
of 10,449 acres "along the Carolina line," and "along the said Causeway." 
It is accompanied by a quill-pen drawing showing the tract, Dismal Town, 
the Dismal Pond, and the Causeway.

Sheet 4, p. 1, is endorsed: "Part of Survey of D. Swamp."

Sheet 4, p. 2, is occupied by a quill-pen drawing showing "Dismal Town," 
the Causeway for 6 miles; "Dismal Pond," the "Landing" at the Pond, and a 
Compass. The size of the Pond is given as "2 miles by 13/4."

Sheet 5, p. 1, is endorsed: "Survey of the Dismal Swamp."

Sheet 5 (larger than the rest), p. 2, is occupied by a quill-pen 
surveyor's drawing of the boundaries of the Company's tract, and locating 
"Rothery's Mill"; "Col. Tucker's Mill"; "Cooper's Mill"; "Col. L. 
Reddick's Mill"; "Dismal Town"; "Lake"; and "Causeway to Lake."

Through the courtesy of Dr. Herbert Putnam, Librarian of Congress, I have 
received a description of the manuscript material in the Library of 
Congress relating to Washington's connection with the project for draining 
the Dismal Swamp. This has been prepared by J. C. Fitzpatrick, assistant 
chief of the Division of Manuscripts.

"The Washington Diary for 1763 contains nine pages of pencil notes about 
the Dismal Swamp. They are very dim and almost illegible. The diary for 
1764 contains nine pages of notes, in ink, which are a duplication of the 
pencil notes of 1763, but vary in particulars, and the pencil notes have 
some information not copied out in the ink notes of 1764.

Page 12

Hamilton's Letters to Washington (Colonial Dames Society, Boston, 1901), 
Volume 3, pages 276 et. seq., groups the ledger entries of expenses 
connected with the Dismal Swamp, through the years 1763--72. The original 
manuscript ledger is, of course, here.

Washington's letter to John Jameson, 1795, February 15, authorizes him to 
guard Washington's interests in the Dismal Swamp Company, and incloses an 
authority to represent Washington in the matter. Both of these are letter-
press copies." See also in this connection Washington's letter to Patrick 
Henry, Governor of Virgnia, November 30, 1785. (Spark's Writings of 
Washington, v. 12, p. 277,278).

We have references to this project in the two following wills. The will of 
Anthony Bacon, dated May 13, 1785 (Virginia Magazine of History and 
Biography, v. 15, p. 183) leaves "To my half brother William Bacon £500 
and all my estate in the Province of Virginia which I hold in partnership 
with sundry gentlemen called the Dismal Swamp, containing I suppose 30,000 
acres." The will of Mrs. Mary Willing Byrd, who died in 1814, widow of 
William Byrd III, states "I give and bequeath to all my grandsons the 
interest I have in the Dismal Swamp to be equally divided between all."

Page 13

(Virginia Magazine of History and Biography, v. 6, p. 352). That work was 
begun in draining soon after the passage of the act is evident from the 
fact that Speaker John Robinson, who died May 6, 1766, owned one share in 
the Dismal Swamp, and had some slaves employed in draining the same. 
(Virginia Magazine of History and Biography, v. 17, p. 319).

In the January number, v. 4, no. 9, of the Farmers' Register, the editor, 
Edmund Ruffin, published his "Observations made during an Excursion to the 
Dismal Swamp [in 1836]." The "Observations" by Ruffin precede immediately 
in the same volume the "Description" by Byrd.

Acknowledgment is made of the generous assistance given by Miss Ethel 
Nolin, of the Virginia State Library.

E. G. SWEM.

College of William and Mary.



Page 14

PROPOSAL TO DRAIN THE DISMAL SWAMP
By William Byrd of Westover

It was after the preceding article on the Dismal Swamp had been written, 
and was partly in type, that we received and for the first time saw the 
manuscript from which the following article is printed, and also the full 
and minute journal of Col. Byrd, of the survey of the line between 
Virginia and North Carolina, which he superintended as one of the 
Commissioners of the Colony of Virginia. For the use of this antique 
paper, we are indebted to the owner, George E. Harrison, Esq., of Brandon, 
and also for the original journal of his distinguished ancestor. This 
proposal, was founded on the information obtained by the survey, and 
recorded more fully in the journal--and upon these grounds and suggestions 
it is probable that the present Land Company was formed at a subsequent 
period, and in which Col. Byrd, or his son, was a partner, and his shares 
are still held by some of his descendants.

The journal, written in 1728, is interesting not only

Page 15

for its antiquity, but for the early views, and then supposed facts, which 
it presents. In our next No. will probably be inserted the portion of the 
journal embracing the passage, probably the earliest made by man, of the 
Dismal Swamp.

The account of Col. Byrd given here, and in his journal, is erroneous as 
to several particulars which rested then merely on report, and therefore 
could not be more correctly known by him. For example, as to the supposed 
pestilential effects of the air--the total absence of animals--and as to 
the general width of the swamp, which he greatly underrated. It will be 
also observed, both from this piece and still more from his journal, that 
there was then no suspicion of the existence of the lake; and yet 
according to the maps of highest authority, its southern margin is within 
less than a mile of the State line, which was so long in being traced and 
marked by the surveying party which Col. Byrd in part directed and 
superintended.

The manuscript, in our charge, is the original, in the handwriting of the 
author--and though timeworn, and requiring much care to handle without 
injury, is perfectly legible. It is here copied literally.(1)

(1) Here ends the introductory note by Edward Ruffin.



Page 17

A DESCRIPTION OF THE DISMAL

The Dismal is a very large swamp or bogg, extending from north to south 
near 30 miles in length, and in breadth, from east to west, at a medium 
about ten miles. It lyes partly in Virginia, and partly in North Carolina. 
No less than 5 navigable rivers, besides creeks, rise out of it, whereof 2 
run into Virginia, viz. the South Branch of Elizabeth, and the South 
Branch of Nansimond Rivers--and 3 into North Carolina, namely, North 
River, North-west River, and Perquimonds. All these hide their heads, 
properly speaking, in the Dismal, there being no signs of them above 
ground. For this reason there must be plentiful subterranean stores of 
water to feed so many rivers or else the soil is so replete with this 
element, draind from the higher land that surrounds it, that it can 
abundantly afford these supplys. This is most probable--because the ground 
of this swamp is a meer quagmire, trembling under the feet of those that 
walk upon it, and every impression is instantly filled with water. We 
could run a long stick up to the head without resistance--and wherever a 
fire was made, so soon as the crust of

Page 18

leaves and trash burnt through, the coals sunk down into a hole, and were 
extinguisht. The skirts of the Dismal towards the east were overgrown with 
reeds ten or 12 feet high, interlaced everywhere with strong bamboe-
bryers, in which the men's feet were perpetually intangled. Among these, 
grows here and there a cypress, or a white cedar, which last is commonly 
mistaken for the juniper. Towards the south end of it, is a very large 
tract of reeds, without any trees at all growing amongst them, which being 
constantly green, and waving in the wind, is called the Green Sea. In many 
parts, especially on the borders, grows an evergreen shrub very 
plentifully, that goes by the name of a gall-bush. It bears a berry which 
dyes a black colour, like the gall of an oak, from whence it borrows its 
name. Near the middle of the Dismal the trees grow much thicker--the 
cypresses as well as the cedars. These being always green, and loaded with 
very large tops, are much exposed to the winds, and easily blown down in 
this boggy place where the soil is soft, and consequently affords but 
slender hold for the roots, that shoot into it. By these the passage is in 
most places interrupted, they lying piled in heaps, and horsing on one 
another; nor is this all, for the snags left upon them point every way, 
and require the utmost caution to clamber over them.

Page 19

'Tis remarquable that, towards the heart of this horrible desart, no beast 
or bird approaches, nor so much as an insect or a reptile. This must 
happen, not so much from the moisture of the soil, as from the everlasting 
shade occationd by the thick shrubbs and bushes, so that the friendly 
beams of the sun can never penetrate them to warm the earth. Nor indeed do 
any birds care to fly over it, any more than they are said to do over the 
lake Avernus, for fear of the noisome exhalations that rise from this vast 
body of dirt and nastiness. These noxious vapours infect the air round 
about, giving agues and other distempers to the neighboring inhabitants. 
On the western border of the Dismal, is a pine swamp above a mile in 
breadth, great part of which is covered with water knee-deep; however, the 
bottom is firm, and though the pines growing upon it are very tall, yet 
are they not easily blown down by the wind. So that the people waded 
through part of it, without any other hindrance but what the depth of 
water gave them, With all these disadvantages the Dismal is in many places 
pleasant to the eye, though disagreeable to the other sences, because of 
the perpetual verdure, which makes every season look like the spring, and 
every month like May. This dreadful swamp was ever judgd impassable, 'til 
the line divideing Virginia

Page 20

from North Carolina was carryd through it in the year 1728, by the order 
of his late majesty. Nor would it have been practicable then, but by the 
benefit of an exceeding dry season, as well as by the invincible vigor and 
industry of those that undertook it. Some of the neighbors have lost 
themselves here for some days, but never had either the courage or 
curiosity to advance very far. Nor can the difficultys of passing this 
inhospitable place be better conceivd, than by the long time that was 
spent in doing it, even by men who were not altogether without 
apprehentions of being starved--they being no less than ten whole days in 
pushing on the line 15 miles, tho' they proceeded with all possible 
diligence and resolution, and besides, had no disaster to retard them.

Page 21

The foregoing being a true and faithful account of the present condition 
of the Dismal, if any way could be found to drain it, the benefits both to 
his majesty and these colonys, would be very considerable.

1. First, that vast extent of bogg, which is now of no value to the crown, 
nor ever can be, in the condition it lyes at present, will come in time to 
pay the same quit-rent that other lands pay in this colony, and employ a 
great number of people. 

2. By draining the Dismal, it will make all the adjacent country much more 
wholesome, and consequently, preserve the lives of many of the king's 
subjects; this will happen by correcting and purifying the air, which is 
now infected by the malignant vapours rising continually from that large 
tract of mire and filthiness. 

3. After the Dismal comes to be drained, it will be the fittest soil in 
the world for producing of hemp; the propagating of which, is with so much 
reason desired

Page 22

and encouraged in his majesty's plantations. Besides, the hemp made in 
this place will have the advantage of being nearer to navigation than it 
can commonly be in this colony. 

4. As the Dismal must be draind by the help of canals, to be cut from the 
northern to the southern rivers, there will be a safe and easy 
communication, by water, betwixt Virginia and North Carolina, to the 
manifest advantage of both. Virginia will have the benefit of being the 
port and public mart, to which the inhabitants of North Carolina must 
bring their commoditys; and these, again, will have the convenience of 
shipping the effects of their industry and receiving their returns from 
Great Britain, in good ships--there being no inlets into the hither part 
of that province, but what are dangerous even to the small vessels that 
can enter them.

Page 23

The Dismal then being so utterly useless to the crown, and such a nusance 
to the neighboring country, and the advantages of draining it being so 
many, there remains no difficulty but to find out a method of doing it 
without leading his majesty into an expence, or laying a burthen on the 
people; and I humbly conceive that neither of these objections can be 
raised against the following scheme.

It is therefore proposed that his majesty be graciously pleasd to grant 
the Dismal, and all the land not yet taken up, lying within half a mile of 
any part of it, to the petitioners hereafter named; and the better to 
encourage them to undergo the heavy charge of draining it, 'tis farther 
proposed, that the said petitioners may have such grant, free from rights, 
and be also exempt from paying any quit-rent for the space of 50 years, 
except one pound of hemp yearly, on St. George's day.

It is also proposed, that all the persons employed in draining the said 
Dismal shall be excused from

Page 24

paying any levys for the space of ten years after the date of said grant.

Nor can it fairly be objected, that such exemption from rights and quit-
rents will be any loss to the crown, because nobody will ever take up any 
land in the Dismal, but with intent to drain--it and the expense of that 
will be too great to undertake it without this encouragement at least. 
Wherefore, since the king can get nothing for it as it now is, it would be 
more to his majesty's interest to grant it on the prospect of a future 
advantage, than to let it lye wast, and continue a nuisance to perpetuity. 
Nor would the country be a looser by indulging the undertakers of this 
great work with a freedom from levys, because of the advantages that would 
happen to it from their industry--and because most of the hands employed 
therein, will be imported on purpose to carry on this laudable design, and 
consequently woud never pay any levys without it.

And to remove all suspicion of fraud, it is likewise proposed that a 
condition be inserted in the royal grant, that in case the petitioners 
shall not drain the said Dismal in the space of ten years, they shall then 
be obliged to pay all arrears of quit-rent from the date of the said 
grant, together with a full value of the rights which ought otherwise to 
have been payed

Page 25

down in the beginning, proportionably to the quantity of land so granted. 
The petitioners humbly relying on his majesty's goodness, to indulge them 
a longer time in case unforseen difficulty should require it. [This 
paragraph, in the manuscript, is marked across, by a single stroke of the 
pen.--Ed. of Farmers' Register.]

Page 26

If this great undertaking be managed prudently, it may be completed in the 
forementioned time of ten years, for the summ of four thousand pound 
sterling, and perhaps for a great deal less.

It is therefore proposed, that this sum be divided into 20 shares, and 
that they to be subscribed by as few persons as possible. That the Earl of 
Orkney, Sir Charles Wager, Sir Jacob Acworth, and Col. Bladen be invited 
to encourage this subscription, being well wishers to these colonys, as 
well as to the propagateing of hemp in his majesty's plantations, and the 
rather because their credit may be necessary in obtaining the royal grant. 
So soon as such grant shall be obtained, the first step ought to be to 
procure a man that perfectly understands draining of land, at a moderate 
salary, and while that is transacting in England, the whole tract should 
be exactly surveyd here, and the levil of it tryd. After that, a proper 
piece of land should be chosen on the skirts of the Dismal, whereon to 
make the first settlement. Sufficient

Page 27

land may be found out there that may be laid dry by a trench only, and 
with that improvement done, produce hemp and rice, as well as Indian corn.

The next advance must be to build convenient houses to receive the people 
necessary to be employd in the beginning, and to provide the proper tools, 
bedding, cloaths, and provisions for them. When these are all ready, let 
10 seasoned negroes be purchased, of both sexes, that their breed may 
supply the loss. Let these be employd in clearing and in trenching the 
ground, in makeing of corn and other requisite improvements.

In the mean time, a moderate stock of cattle should be provided, which 
will winter on the edges of the Dismal with very little dry feeding.

It may be proper to teach two or more of your negro men to saw, make 
shingles, burn tar, draw clapboards, and set up tight casks, that so all 
the timber cut down to clear the ground may be turnd to the best 
advantage. And the money to be raisd from all these improvements will help 
to defray the expences of the first settlement, and in some measure enable 
the work to carry on itself; that so the money remaining in bank may be 
reservd for the purchase of negros, as fast as room can be made for them, 
and

Page 28

your work shall need a greater number of hands to carry it on with vigour.

When you have thus got a firm footing, a near computation may be made what 
increase of strength will be wanting the second year--remembering to 
purchase no more negros than you have made provision for, and there is no 
doubt in the world, but by the time the whole money is expended, the 
Dismal will be made as good land as any in the country, with at least 300 
negros working upon it, and stockt with an incredible number of cattle. 
From all which we may safely conclude, that each share will then be worth 
more than ten times the value of the original subscription, besides the 
unspeakable benefit it will prove to the publick.

Page 29

AN ESTIMATE OF THE FIRST EXPENSE

To the building a quarter, barn, and house for an overseer,   £ 60 00 0 
To the purchase of 10 seasond negros, half men, half women,    300 00 0 
To cloaths, bedding, tools, and provisions for the first year,  40 00 0 
To 20 cows and calves, 9 steers, one bull, and a horse,         50 00 0 
To the wages of an overseer, and his provisions,                25 00 0 
To accidents and charges unforeseen,                            25 00 0 
To soliciting the grant in England,                             50 00 0 
To surveying the Dismal, and the expence of the patent here,    50 00 0 
                                                              £600 00 0 
To 20 negros the 2d year                                       400 00 0 
To 25 negros the 3d year                                       500 00 0 
To 25 negros the 4th year                                      500 00 0 
To 25 negros the 5th year                                      500 00 0

Page 30

To 25 negros the 6th year                                      500 00 0 
To 25 negros the 7th year                                      500 00 0 
To 25 negros the 8th year                                      500 00 0 
                                                             £4000 00 0

The foregoing account shows only how many negros may be purchased for 
£4000, being the summ subscribed, to be employd in the Dismal; but besides 
that mony, there is no question but the profits ariseing from the labour 
of the negros on the land, which will every year be laid dry, will be very 
considerable--insomuch that it will not only defray all incident charges, 
but also purchase many more people to finish this great work. And for 
those which happen to dye, 'tis probable that their place will be fully 
supplyd by their children, if care be taken to buy as many women as men. 
And because it will be some years before such children grow up to a 
stature fit to work, it will be prudent to lay out part of the money in 
boys and girls, which will not only season better than men and women, but 
will be very soon fit for labour, and supply the mortality that must 
happen among so great a number. Besides the advantages of propagation, 
there is another benefit in provideing wives for the men: it will keep 
them at home, and prevent their rambling

Page 31

abroad anights, from which arise many great inconveniences. By this 
practice they learn to be dishonest, take cold, and lose their rest, 
whereby they are less fit to do their work the following days. Besides, 
when they have wives in other familys, they are frequently poisoned by the 
jealousy of their rivals, who think they have a much better right to the 
affections of their fellow servants, than any stranger. By this many lose 
their lives.

(Copy of Petition annexed.)

To the King's most Excellent Majesty,

The petition of
Humbly sheweth:

That whereas there is a large bogg, situated partly in Virginia, and 
partly in North Carolina, which lyes wast by reason of the mire and water 
with which it is covered, and corrupts the air of all the neighboring 
country by the noxious vapours that perpetually ascend from it, to the 
great annoyance of your majesty's subjects: and whereas, many considerable 
advantages woud arise, both to your majesty and those colonys, from the 
effectual draining of it, which cannot be performed without a very great 
labour and expence--

Page 32

Your petitioners therefore humbly pray, that your majesty will be 
graciously pleasd to grant to your petitioners the said bogg, and all the 
land not yet taken up, lying within half a mile of any part of it: and the 
better to enable them to support the heavy charge of draining it, your 
petitioners further pray, that your majesty will please to grant them the 
said bogg, free from rights, and also exempt them from paying any quit-
rent for the space of 50 years, except one pound of hemp to be paid yearly.

And your petitioners shall ever pray, etc.